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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



STR posted:

Extremely blown shock coupled with a slightly unbalanced tire.

You don't feel it inside the car as much as you'd think, but it makes a hell of wear pattern on the tire.

The resulting wear pattern (a series of oblong thin spots, resembling an old worn leather shoe sole and that can go right through to the tire carcass) was described in my '66 Pontiac Factory Manual as being due to "wheel tramp"

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Hughmoris
Apr 21, 2007
Let's go to the abyss!
I need a little advice on a new-found leak.

I have a Chevy Sonic with the 1.8L and a manual trans. I noticed a small spot on the driveway so popped the hood. I have a leak of some sort and the fluid looks pinkish on a napkin. My initial thought is coolant leak because it's high in the engine bay (pics below) but I guess transmission fluid can also be reddish?

In the pic below I pointed out the connection where I THINK it might be leaking from. There is a hose running to it. The connection seemed pretty snug but I couldn't really get my hand on it and the visibility is poor.

Any initial thoughts/suggestions on what it could be or what to try? Thanks!



Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


I think that's your throttle body heater inlet, it would be full of coolant. If that's where it's leaking from, that would be coolant.

It should be a hard line, so chances are it has already been hosed with.

It's a $20 part and pretty easy to replace if that is the leak.

https://www.csmans.com/throttle_body_heater_inlet_pipe_replacement_luw_-2047.html

Powershift fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Apr 26, 2023

Hughmoris
Apr 21, 2007
Let's go to the abyss!

Powershift posted:

I think that's your throttle body heater inlet, it would be full of coolant. If that's where it's leaking from, that would be coolant.

It should be a hard line, so chances are it has already been hosed with.

It's a $20 part and pretty easy to replace if that is the leak.

https://www.csmans.com/throttle_body_heater_inlet_pipe_replacement_luw_-2047.html

Thank you! I'll need to verify tomorrow in the daylight but that looks to be exactly what it is.

A quick google shows it to be a common source of coolant leaks on this engine. I found a YT video that walks through replacing one (albeit on a Cruze but possibly the same engine?) so I might give it a go.

Hughmoris
Apr 21, 2007
Let's go to the abyss!
Also, I wasn't quite sure what you meant when you said the line had already been hosed with since I bought the car new and haven't had any major work on it. Now, I remember that I had it at the dealership last year to fix misfiring. If it was poorly swapped out, it happened then. :mad:

Since it's very likely that line is 8 months old, I might try popping the connector off and reseating it? Or does that way lie pain, due to the connector type?

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


What i mean is all parts diagrams/sites show it as a hard line, yours looks like a chunk of hose. They do sell quick connect > hose barbs so if it is a repair it's not entirely inappropriate.

And yeah, those quick connects are a pain in the rear end, it might only be half seated.

This is what you're dealing with.




push down on the top and see fi you hear a click. if not, Just spread the teeth and it comes off.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Apr 26, 2023

Hughmoris
Apr 21, 2007
Let's go to the abyss!

Powershift posted:

What i mean is all parts diagrams/sites show it as a hard line, yours looks like a chunk of hose. They do sell quick connect > hose barbs so if it is a repair it's not entirely inappropriate.

And yeah, those quick connects are a pain in the rear end, it might only be half seated.

This is what you're dealing with.
...
push down on the top and see fi you hear a click. if not, Just spread the teeth and it comes off.

You rock, thank you.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

22 Eargesplitten posted:

It's entirely possible I'm wrong, but the accepted answer on this page explains my thoughts better than I can.

https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/45424/can-lowering-springs-make-the-car-handle-worse

Particularly:
"Given all that, you have sped up the weight transfer that will happen when entering a corner." That would explain the loss of rear-end stability when going off throttle or hitting the brakes at highway speed, it's a more sudden weight shift off the rear tires. This is the half I'm more iffy on though, I have the nagging feeling I'm missing something.
"When you change the spring rate, you should also change the dampers (they need to have higher damping rates to cope with the higher spring rates or you'll be boinging down the road)." I think this is what's going on when I hit bigger bumps, it's bouncy rather than a smooth up and down like I would expect. That's why I assumed it needed new shocks when I first bought it, I think of that as being a blown shock symptom.

This was originally a Florida car, so assume that Florida Man did all of the modifications. Florida Man certainly did the replacement passenger side window that wasn't reported to insurance, when he put the window tabs on backwards and attached them with silicone sealant rather than epoxy.

I do want to make sure that's actually what's going on though, rather than throw the parts cannon at it. If this is what it rides like stock then I need to change it from stock rather than trying to return to stock.

it's true that you have less space for the suspension to travel if it's lowered, but the spring rate should be commensurately higher, so it should take about the same amount of time for transitions to occur. there should be a lot less body roll, though, and similarly less dive on heavy braking or squat when accelerating. in my experience with low/stiff cars, going over big bumps are either "you don't lol" or it feels like you have no/less less cushion. it will go BANG BANG when you hit a pothole, instead of a nice gentle thump with the original suspension.

you're right that you'll need different shocks, both because of length and also rate. if you're under-damped it could feel bouncy and unsettled, but i don't have much experience driving cars set up like that.

i guess you could say that everything i am saying is really about stiff springs rather than low springs, but the two go hand in hand. if you cut your original springs, you get stiffer springs, and lowering springs should always have a higher rate to go with their diminished travel. if you suspect some florida man type poo poo, who knows what you have, the above really just applies to intentionally lowering the car with some appropriate lowering springs.

totalnewbie
Nov 13, 2005

I was born and raised in China, lived in Japan, and now hold a US passport.

I am wrong in every way, all the damn time.

Ask me about my tattoos.
I'm not trying to restart the discussion but just share, here is a dashboard showing state of ZEV and ZEV infrastructure in California: https://www.energy.ca.gov/data-reports/energy-almanac/zero-emission-vehicle-and-infrastructure-statistics/new-zev-sales

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Also, not trying to restart the discussion, but wanted to add a recommendation to the person looking at PHEV's: As someone who had one without a heat exchanger. Get a one with a heat exchanger no matter where you live. That way you can have the car prepare itself with heating / cooling before you leave, and you won't have to waste time / gas on cabin heating, defogging etc.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

MrOnBicycle posted:

Also, not trying to restart the discussion, but wanted to add a recommendation to the person looking at PHEV's: As someone who had one without a heat exchanger. Get a one with a heat exchanger no matter where you live. That way you can have the car prepare itself with heating / cooling before you leave, and you won't have to waste time / gas on cabin heating, defogging etc.

The fact that heat pumps are still regularly limited to specific regions, packages, and/or drivetrain configurations is arguably one of the worst catches about the current EV market. It's such a massive difference in power consumption when heat is required for so little extra hardware cost, yet it's so easy for uninformed shoppers to end up without one.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

As much as I hate to say anything Pro Tesla - I'm pretty sure they're 100% heat pump at this point. Though the :can: of hoses and solenoids on to the Octovalve (in the Y) is pretty :stonk: to look at during assembly (even more more of a :stonkhat: to assemble or troubleshoot when the system won't hold vacuum).

But they're using one heating/cooling system for everything - the drive units, the battery, the cabin - anything that needs heating or cooling. That octovalve thing is pretty important, and looks insanely complicated. But Munro claims it appears to be a very robust/reliable design. :shrug:

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Apr 28, 2023

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

STR posted:

As much as I hate to say anything Pro Tesla - I'm pretty sure they're 100% heat pump at this point. Though the :can: of hoses and solenoids on to the Octovalve (in the Y) is pretty :stonk: to look at during assembly (even more more of a :stonkhat: to assemble or troubleshoot when the system won't hold vacuum).

But they're using one heating/cooling system for everything - the drive units, the battery, the cabin - anything that needs heating or cooling. That octovalve thing is pretty important, and looks insanely complicated. But Munro claims it appears to be a very robust/reliable design. :shrug:

Munro also claims that Elon Musk is a singular genius and that we’re in a job crunch because everybody got too many English degrees for too long.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Where can I get like one or two recommendations for a two channel dash cam to put in my RF Miata. I don't want an in cabin camera, just front and rear.

I've looked at a few 4k cameras on Amazon but I suffer from indecision and other than blackvue I really have no idea which ones are trustworthy.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



MetaJew posted:

Where can I get like one or two recommendations for a two channel dash cam to put in my RF Miata. I don't want an in cabin camera, just front and rear.

I've looked at a few 4k cameras on Amazon but I suffer from indecision and other than blackvue I really have no idea which ones are trustworthy.

I don’t have a rear camera and personally don’t lose sleep. If you’re not concerned about losing the rear, I use a Garmin dash cam mini 2. A big plus was just pulling the trigger for a model from established manufacturer, and not needing to decipher 500 bot written reviews of Chinese fly by night designed and built trash.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Inner Light posted:

I don’t have a rear camera and personally don’t lose sleep. If you’re not concerned about losing the rear, I use a Garmin dash cam mini 2. A big plus was just pulling the trigger for a model from established manufacturer, and not needing to decipher 500 bot written reviews of Chinese fly by night designed and built trash.

Yeah Garmin has been on my list just because they are a known brand and make pretty solid products.

Are you satisfied with the camera resolution and night/low light image quality? Maybe I'll just go for Garmin.

phosdex
Dec 16, 2005

I don't know about rear, but for front I bought a Viofo A139 Pro. Trying to buy an RF Miata right now.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

MetaJew posted:

Where can I get like one or two recommendations for a two channel dash cam to put in my RF Miata. I don't want an in cabin camera, just front and rear.

I've looked at a few 4k cameras on Amazon but I suffer from indecision and other than blackvue I really have no idea which ones are trustworthy.

Here's the dashcam thread if you want to really nerd out about it: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3597215

But the tl;dr version is basically "Buy the Viofo A1x9 variant that ticks your boxes".

I have an A129 Pro that has been mostly good for me but has a few quirks when it gets hot as many of the 4K models do. The A129 Plus 1440p model doesn't seem to have those quirks. I live in Ohio so it's not usually hot enough for me to care, but if you live in the south and park outside you might want to avoid the 4K models.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
I had been looking at the Viofo 4k as well.

I don't know if I want to read that thread. My analysis paralysis is v bad.

Regarding the Garmin and Viofo cameras, how hard is it to pull the video off of them?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

you pop out the memory card and stick it in the card reader on your computer, if you have one. If you don't, you bring the whole camera in and attach a usb cord

this is basically how all dashcams these days work

also you don't have to actually read the dashcam thread, just post your question, but we'll just recommend the Viofo most of the time so don't feel you have to

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



MetaJew posted:

Yeah Garmin has been on my list just because they are a known brand and make pretty solid products.

Are you satisfied with the camera resolution and night/low light image quality? Maybe I'll just go for Garmin.

I have been very satisfied with both the quality and value of the Garmin dash cam mini 2.

Also you do not need to pull the card to get videos if you do not want. It has wireless connection functionality that works with smartphones so you can pull video that way while the vehicle is running using a phone app. The app also has editing functions.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

MetaJew posted:

Where can I get like one or two recommendations for a two channel dash cam to put in my RF Miata. I don't want an in cabin camera, just front and rear.

I've looked at a few 4k cameras on Amazon but I suffer from indecision and other than blackvue I really have no idea which ones are trustworthy.

Viofo sells very solid stuff without the Blackvue price.

It's not the same build quality, but you're gonna be replacing it in a couple of years anyway.

MetaJew posted:

Regarding the Garmin and Viofo cameras, how hard is it to pull the video off of them?

Pop the card out, put it into something that can read micro SD - they record in standard formats (I think my Viofo records in MP4, Win10 is able to play it back without any additional codecs). A lot of dashcams have wifi built in that lets you play video back on your phone (using an app). Most will let you play video back on the camera itself if it has a display, though you may need it connected to power (they're pretty much all some variant of USB; mini, micro, or C, depending on price point and when it came out - obviously the power supply it comes with will suffice, if the car can still supply power).

I've popped the card into a tablet before; I've also played video back for a cop (after an accident) on the camera itself on one that supported playback. Even a USB-OTG cable and a micro SD adapter (for a phone that doesn't have a memory card slot) lets me watch it on my phone using the standard Android video player stuff. I'm not sure how the dual camera models do it though, I assume they do a split video file (one for front, one for rear). Make drat sure you get a high endurance card though; dashcams are particularly rough on memory cards, and you'll need to replace the card now and then (depends how much you drive; I drive a lot, usually get almost a year out of them before they start giving errors, using Transcend high endurance cards - I've had the best luck with Transcend FWIW, bad luck with Sandisk).

tl;dr you can play the video back on just about anything that supports a micro SD card, even if support is indirect via adapters

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Apr 29, 2023

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
How can I open the hood on a Mk1 Honda Fit/Jazz if the handle doesn't do anything? The battery is dead after I haven't been driving it for a while and now I can't get to it because the hood won't open. I also can't move the car or jack it up as it's parked on an incline in front of another car lol.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Wow, my friend has the same problem with his '99 BMW 323i convertible. It's been sitting in his driveway for two three years because we can't get the goddamned hood open. I worked on it for over an hour.

(edit) appears the easiest way is to pop off the grilles & literally unbolt the retainers from the underside of the hood. drat.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Apr 30, 2023

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

A recent Rainman Ray video dealt with that as well on a reluctant Jeep. They ended up taking the front end of the car off so they could get to the mechanism with some needle-nosed pliers.

DesperateDan
Dec 10, 2005

Where's my cow?

Is that my cow?

No it isn't, but it still tramples my bloody lavender.

mobby_6kl posted:

How can I open the hood on a Mk1 Honda Fit/Jazz if the handle doesn't do anything? The battery is dead after I haven't been driving it for a while and now I can't get to it because the hood won't open. I also can't move the car or jack it up as it's parked on an incline in front of another car lol.

try getting someone to push down on the hood around the latch while you try the release or the other way around

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Depending on the make and model, you can get at the latch from underneath. No idea if this applies to the fit, and certainly doesn’t apply to this situation.

Can you move the car from behind it?

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

mobby_6kl posted:

How can I open the hood on a Mk1 Honda Fit/Jazz if the handle doesn't do anything? The battery is dead after I haven't been driving it for a while and now I can't get to it because the hood won't open. I also can't move the car or jack it up as it's parked on an incline in front of another car lol.

Did the cable break off the handle? If so pull the cable with a pliers. If the cable broke of at the latch then you're pretty much gonna have to take the grille off and try to get to it

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Safety Dance posted:

Low effort question, but my 2006 Cayenne Turbo has this air line running from the air box to the air compressor, and I'm supposed to disconnect it so I can change the air filter. I can't figure out how to disconnect it. Feels like I'm putting way too much force on plastic. The green bit is loose and rotates freely. Any ideas?



On the hose end, the largest diameter portion of the connector should have some lines molded into it 180deg apart. Squeeze those while first pushing the connector towards the airbox and then pull it away. It is incredibly finicky and took me a solid 5 minutes and bruised fingertips when I replaced my air filters.

That Old Ganon
Jan 2, 2012

THUNDERDOME LOSER
I drove across the country in a 2012 Nissan Cube. What all do I need done at a mechanic? Does servicing include refilling car fluids?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Yeah, it should. Fluids, check brakes, rotate tires. The rest would just depend on if it’s acting funny.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



That Old Ganon posted:

I drove across the country in a 2012 Nissan Cube. What all do I need done at a mechanic? Does servicing include refilling car fluids?

How are your hemmorhoids?

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:

That Old Ganon posted:

I drove across the country in a 2012 Nissan Cube. What all do I need done at a mechanic? Does servicing include refilling car fluids?

Manual or CVT? If CVT then most certainly check however that is checked on the Cube. If it's a manual then no worries about your transmission!

That Old Ganon
Jan 2, 2012

THUNDERDOME LOSER

PainterofCrap posted:

How are your hemmorhoids?
It was actually a blood clot in my hips that broke off into chunks that settled in my right lung that almost killed me.

KakerMix posted:

Manual or CVT? If CVT then most certainly check however that is checked on the Cube. If it's a manual then no worries about your transmission!
CVT. The little stick actually moves on its own without needing to hold down the button.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
Thanks everyone. The cable was still attached to the handle, and was clearly under tension when pulling it, which was weird. Really couldn't see anything through the grille or the gap between either (there was a rubber gasket). Somehow just pulling on the hood really hard got it open though, which is again strange because pushing it down didn't latch it either :confused:

Anyway, got the battery out. Look how cute it is :3:



It's really tiny even compared to the Miata battery. I'll probably charge it to get the car running and pick up a new one.
E: the battery store is closed today (and probably tomorrow) so that's just going to have to wait.

mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Apr 30, 2023

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
I had a similar issue on my E39 where the hood latch cable was actually three separate Bowden cables. First one from handle to a join, second one from the join to the drivers side latch, third one from the drivers side latch to the passengers side latch. The middle one was binding a bit and not moving freely. The latch mechanisms might also require lubrication.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Jesus dp

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Apr 30, 2023

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

I had a similar issue on my E39 where the hood latch cable was actually three separate Bowden cables.

Sounds like his is set-up the same way.

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


Stupid question time. I have an oil leak on the BP4W in my 98 Miat. It seems to be coming from the cams so I've bought new seals. When I install them am I lubing the centre so the cams can spin freely or is that not a requirement? I need a Tamiya-esque guide to show me where to dab grease etc :v:

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wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Olympic Mathlete posted:

Stupid question time. I have an oil leak on the BP4W in my 98 Miat. It seems to be coming from the cams so I've bought new seals. When I install them am I lubing the centre so the cams can spin freely or is that not a requirement? I need a Tamiya-esque guide to show me where to dab grease etc :v:

If anything just lube the seals for ease of installation. Otherwise, if theres supposed to be any lube in there, it'll probably be engine oil.

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