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Jato
Dec 21, 2009


Nohearum posted:

I was weak and bought a $49 gravel frame today :toot:

I also have no self control and have wanted to take on building a bike up from the frame for a while so...now I have one of these on the way.

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FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

Jato posted:

I also have no self control and have wanted to take on building a bike up from the frame for a while so...now I have one of these on the way.

Some people that ordered these have actually received the whole frameset, so you might not have to source a fork!

praxis
Aug 1, 2003

Jonny Quest posted:

I’m sorry but I can’t let a matching Taco and bike go unappreciated. Well done.

Thank you, sir!

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Nohearum posted:

Product listing explicitly said no fork but it came with one anyway as a bonus (and thru axles). Also shown is the gravel wheels. WTB i23 rims. One issue is the fork is 12mm thru axle and the front hub is 15mm thru axle. Might have to source a different wheel if I can't find converters.



I got the wheels on Saturday, which they shipped loose in a full sized bike box along with some stems and a BB, luckily they weren’t damaged. Frame is coming soon.

For the wheels, I think the end caps should be replaceable to 12mm for the front but I haven’t had a chance to mess with them too much. They look press fit, I think the hubs are Novatec with the Framed branding.

Nohearum
Nov 2, 2013

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

I got the wheels on Saturday, which they shipped loose in a full sized bike box along with some stems and a BB, luckily they weren’t damaged. Frame is coming soon.

For the wheels, I think the end caps should be replaceable to 12mm for the front but I haven’t had a chance to mess with them too much. They look press fit, I think the hubs are Novatec with the Framed branding.

I yanked on the end caps a bit but couldn't get them off. Ended up sourcing a cheap 15mm to 12mm converter axle sleeve thing off scamazon that I think will work.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Nohearum posted:

I yanked on the end caps a bit but couldn't get them off. Ended up sourcing a cheap 15mm to 12mm converter axle sleeve thing off scamazon that I think will work.

For the best as I found the hub (finally) and it’s a Novatec D041SB-15 and they only ever made 15mm and QR versions of this hub. Uses 6902 bearings if you ever need them.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~
Hey yall, I have a bike with tubeless, but I bought it used and don't really know poo poo about tubeless. The bike sat over winter, a week or so ago I topped up the air in the tires and took it for a 5 mile jaunt around our neighborhood. No issues.

I just saw it in the garage, front tire is entirely flat. I am assuming correctly that I need to add more sealant goop, then air it up and see if it holds air again?

Lord Rupert
Dec 28, 2007

Neither seen, nor heard

PaintVagrant posted:

Hey yall, I have a bike with tubeless, but I bought it used and don't really know poo poo about tubeless. The bike sat over winter, a week or so ago I topped up the air in the tires and took it for a 5 mile jaunt around our neighborhood. No issues.

I just saw it in the garage, front tire is entirely flat. I am assuming correctly that I need to add more sealant goop, then air it up and see if it holds air again?

Yeah that’s a great place to start, pretty likely that’s all that’s going on. Spin the wheels around some after adding sealant and you should be golden.

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Yup, you’ll probably have to top up your sealant every few months. IME orange seal endurance really does last longer

e: by far the east and best way to add sealant is to take out the presta valve core and squirt it in with a purpose-made syringe or injector bottle with a little hose

Clark Nova fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Apr 30, 2023

Horizontal Tree
Jan 1, 2010
The tryhard way to do it would be to pull the tire, check the rim tape and pull out any gunked up old sealant, then stick the tire back on and reseat with new sealant.
I refill Orange Seal yearly, with an extra ounce or two squirted in mid season. You can get Orange Seal bottles with a cap that was the tubing to fill through the valve with the core removed, which imo is the best way to do it with mtb tires. Inflate and seat, then pull the valve core, add sealant, reinflate.

Eejit
Mar 6, 2007

Swiss Army Cockatoo
Cacatua multitoolii

Yeah the injectors are clutch and also cheap

Yeep
Nov 8, 2004
How hosed is this rim? It's buckled on both sides of the valve hole so I can't fit a schrader tube in any more.


And if the answer is very hosed, where do I go about getting a replacement 26" rim? DT Swiss seem to have the 533 (~£25) and 471 (~£60) in a 26. Am I going to notice the difference? It's a rear wheel with a DT240s hub which I'd like to keep if possible.

Quizzlefish
Jan 26, 2005

Am I not merciful?
Ok - time to buy my first ever mountainbike. I need some help with what kind to buy - specific brand and model advice welcome, but even just some general rules of thumb would help.

Context: I'll be riding mainly with my wife and my son. He's only 8 but a good cyclist and v keen. I want something that will last (for me) as he grows older and can do more ambitious stuff. I also need something that is light enough to go on the back of my car on a carrier. I think this mainly just rules out e-bikes.

Type of riding: I will be mainly doing cross country trails that are a mix of gravel, mud and road. I'm not an adrenaline junkie so very likely not going to get into downhill riding. I've tried downhill a few times and was more terrified than exhilarated.

Budget: I will be buying through the tax free cycle to work scheme (UK) and the hard cap is £10k. Clearly I don't need that much bike as a novice. My main consideration is how stressed I will be about losing it or getting it stolen. So probs £1k-£3k is the right budget before I'd be too paranoid to enjoy it.

Given the above- I assume a hard tail makes more sense than a full suspension. So that I lose less energy climbing?

Specialised seems like it is recommended a lot in the research I've done too.


Is there any other must have gear I need apart from a repair kit and helmet? I only ask as on this UK scheme I can buy accessories but have to buy them all at the same time as the bike.

Thanks in advance my goons. You've already helped a lot a while ago with figuring out how to get the kids involved!

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum
Whereabouts in the UK are you based?

A 29er hardtail does seem appropriate but modern full suspension bikes are very good at climbing. If you're just sticking to gravel/mud/road though then yeah a hardtail will be fine. For that budget you would be able to get a hardtail will excellent specs or a low spec FS. A capable hardtail with a good groupset, forks and a dropper would be perfect. Specialized make great bikes, you can't really go wrong with them but I would also look into some UK hardtails too, we do a load of good ones. Cotic, Sonder, Nukeproof, Whyte, Vitus, Bird etc.

Really it's all about the quality of components with hardtails at that price point. I'd try and find one with either SRAM GX or Shimano XT level groupsets with a fox 34/36 or rockshox pike. A dropper is essential. Make sure the tyres are set up tubeless as well.

As well as a repair kit (should include stuff like tyre strips, multitool preferably with a chain breaker, spare chain links, spare valve cores, spare tube and tyre levers) and a helmet I would go for knee pads as well. You may not be doing gnarly trails but kneepads nowadays are comfy and well worth it, just remember to try a few pairs on first since the sizing can be all over the place.

Really that's all you need to get started!

Quizzlefish
Jan 26, 2005

Am I not merciful?
Surrey, so no big mountains but we are big campers and holiday in the UK - plus family in the peak District that we visit often and they are keen cyclists also with kids.

Thanks for all the tips!

SRAM nx Vs gx a dealbreaker?

Otherwise the Whyte 629 looks good.

Yeep
Nov 8, 2004
You might get an e-MTB on the back of your car if it's a towbar rack, the weight limits can be up to 75kg.

You could look at Boardman too, I think the previous generation of their FS bikes were pretty well regarded and Halfords are doing 30% off if you trade in an old bike right now (and it's still compatible with cycle to work). Obviously budget a little bit extra for a proper cycle shop to fix all of Halford's mistakes or just order it unassembled.
There are a couple of shops that do second hand bikes on cycle schemes as well if you want your money to go a bit further. I've used https://www.cycleexchange.co.uk/ before and they've been fine.

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum

Quizzlefish posted:

Surrey, so no big mountains but we are big campers and holiday in the UK - plus family in the peak District that we visit often and they are keen cyclists also with kids.

Thanks for all the tips!

SRAM nx Vs gx a dealbreaker?

Otherwise the Whyte 629 looks good.

NX is fine, a little heavy but should be just as reliable. The Whyte does look pretty good!

Quizzlefish
Jan 26, 2005

Am I not merciful?
Cool - I've put in a request for the cycle voucher and will let you all know the final decision, pics etc.

Thanks for the help and advice

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Agreed with everybody. Hardtail, dropper, decent fork with a 12 speed and you should be pretty happy with that. SRAM stuff is really finicky to get setup just right IME. I never could quite dial in a bike with an NX setup perfectly but my GX is spot on and I hope I never have to touch it. :ohdear: I went back to shimano XT for my new bike because of this but honestly I think my GX shifts better. I didn't expect this at all.

Boogalo
Jul 8, 2012

Meep Meep




I'm ok with NX (or whatever the low spec is) being a little finnicky since the cost of replacement is so low. Doesn't hurt nearly as much to replace a damaged component, which i've had to do a couple times.

COOKIE DELIGHT
Jun 24, 2006
I guess you could say..I was born naturally influent.
My lust for a Ragley Big Al has not settled, even though I know it's inappropriate for the majority of my local trails.

If I've already got an (outdated geo) racey 24lb XC bike with nice components, would a Marin Team 2 be too much overlap to be worth the $2k+ investment? Would it be less overlap if I bought a more aggressive bike like the Ragley and underforked it?

Being in Austin, I really ride way more punchy climbs & XC than downill, but I need something less sketchy for when I do hit the bike park.

Strongly considering blowing my money on an aggressive bike and learning first hand why it's not fun to be overbiked, even if my friends riding on tricked out Ripmos say otherwise.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

COOKIE DELIGHT posted:

My lust for a Ragley Big Al has not settled, even though I know it's inappropriate for the majority of my local trails.

If I've already got an (outdated geo) racey 24lb XC bike with nice components, would a Marin Team 2 be too much overlap to be worth the $2k+ investment? Would it be less overlap if I bought a more aggressive bike like the Ragley and underforked it?

Being in Austin, I really ride way more punchy climbs & XC than downill, but I need something less sketchy for when I do hit the bike park.

Strongly considering blowing my money on an aggressive bike and learning first hand why it's not fun to be overbiked, even if my friends riding on tricked out Ripmos say otherwise.

Don’t underfork it; you’ll drop the BB height, and that can lead to more pedal strikes. You’d also steepen the head angle, which doesn’t really make sense with wanting more aggressive geometry in the first place.

The Marin Team 2 would probably overlap with the XC bike you already have. Are you thinking you’ll keep your XC bike? Or sell it and get something that can do most everything?

Why aggressive hardtail versus full suspension, especially if you’re thinking about bike park days?

prom candy
Dec 16, 2005

Only I may dance
Thinking about buying a Trek Roscoe 7 (2023) for my first MTB. I have a cyclocross bike that I've been riding for about ten years but I've lost my appetite for road riding and so I want to push more into the woods. I'll probably never do anything too crazy with it but riding some flowy trails and learning some basic technical skills would be fun. Also my wife and I are about the same height so having two fairly nice bikes that can handle rail trails and gravel and that kind of thing. Is the Roscoe 7 gonna be overkill? I usually err on the side of getting a little bit more than I need rather than going under and then buying something else a short time later.

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

Think it depends on the terrain, there's also the x-calibur in the same price range with different geometry. The marlin is in a kinda limbo where some regions got a gen 3 that changed closer to a trail geometry. The US still has gen 2 which is cross country.

Boogalo
Jul 8, 2012

Meep Meep




I like my 2020 roscoe 8. Fun rowdy bike, but Trek cheaps in weird places (and they still proudly sell bikes to cops). These days the spec is pretty low to keep the price reasonable. Salsa rangefinder is another option but it comes with suntour fork instead of a judy. Both are still QR rear.

Personally I'd look for something with thru axle rear and make sure it has a real headset and not just caged bearings. For a starter MTB i think ease of finding compatible swappable parts if you want to repair, change or upgrade something is more important than geo. Though most important is probably just what you can actually get locally unless you're ok without easy warranty support.

I'd not go with the Marlin, you will likely quickly become underbiked with it and want something burlier.

prom candy
Dec 16, 2005

Only I may dance

Boogalo posted:

I like my 2020 roscoe 8. Fun rowdy bike, but Trek cheaps in weird places (and they still proudly sell bikes to cops). These days the spec is pretty low to keep the price reasonable. Salsa rangefinder is another option but it comes with suntour fork instead of a judy. Both are still QR rear.

Personally I'd look for something with thru axle rear and make sure it has a real headset and not just caged bearings. For a starter MTB i think ease of finding compatible swappable parts if you want to repair, change or upgrade something is more important than geo. Though most important is probably just what you can actually get locally unless you're ok without easy warranty support.

I'd not go with the Marlin, you will likely quickly become underbiked with it and want something burlier.

A bonus for Trek for me is they seem pretty easy to get in Canada and the Roscoe 7 is on sale right now. A lot of other brands can be harder to track down in Canada.

The Marlin was the other one I was looking at but yeah that takes me back to not wanting to be back bike shopping in two years. $1300 for bike 1 and $2000 for bike 2 is a lot more money than $2000 for bike 1.

Horizontal Tree
Jan 1, 2010

prom candy posted:

Thinking about buying a Trek Roscoe 7 (2023) for my first MTB. I have a cyclocross bike that I've been riding for about ten years but I've lost my appetite for road riding and so I want to push more into the woods. I'll probably never do anything too crazy with it but riding some flowy trails and learning some basic technical skills would be fun. Also my wife and I are about the same height so having two fairly nice bikes that can handle rail trails and gravel and that kind of thing. Is the Roscoe 7 gonna be overkill? I usually err on the side of getting a little bit more than I need rather than going under and then buying something else a short time later.

This is easily one of the best entry bikes available right now. The update to the Roscoe last year was a big step up. Keep in mind the lowest tier Roscoe 6 is the old frame and NOT the same bike, but the 7 is updated to all the modern standards.

Quizzlefish
Jan 26, 2005

Am I not merciful?
Trek Roscoe 7 seems to fit my needs and budget too but I'm having trouble doing a useful comparison against the Whyte 629 so pointers would be helpful.

Separate question: tubeless 'ready' tyres means I have to do something to make them tubeless?

MarxCarl
Jul 18, 2003

Quizzlefish posted:

Trek Roscoe 7 seems to fit my needs and budget too but I'm having trouble doing a useful comparison against the Whyte 629 so pointers would be helpful.

Separate question: tubeless 'ready' tyres means I have to do something to make them tubeless?

Try this: https://99spokes.com/compare?bikes=whyte-629-trail-hardtail-2023,trek-roscoe-7-2023
Unfortunately, it doesn't have all the Whyte measurements.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Quizzlefish posted:

Trek Roscoe 7 seems to fit my needs and budget too but I'm having trouble doing a useful comparison against the Whyte 629 so pointers would be helpful.

Separate question: tubeless 'ready' tyres means I have to do something to make them tubeless?

You have to put them on tubeless ready rims and add sealant, that's all. Tires that aren't TR aren't always going to keep sealant from weeping through themselves and also may not make a good seal against the bead of the time.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Just because a tire is tubeless ready doesn't mean there aren't still tubes in there. Take one side of the bead off to check and remove and then you need to tape the rim unless it's already been done. Best to just watch a 5 minute YouTube on the process of this sounds complicated (it isn't). My trek had a rubber liner thing in the already and didn't require tape but it was probably a bit heavier.

I think some treks now ship with sealant but it can dry out of it's been sitting.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Trek roscoe 7s are tubeless out of the box. They come with a bottle of sealant, which doesn't get added until someone actually buys the bike.

Anyway, solid bike, and the 7s and 8s are keeping the sale price from the last two months of "trek fest."

jamal fucked around with this message at 15:00 on May 4, 2023

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Is it a trim level thing or manufacturer preference? When I was shopping for my new bike recently, I think pretty much every new bike I looked at had tubes in tubeless ready wheels and tires.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
I think it's not worth assembling and storing the bike with sealant in the tires. Might be a nice touch for affiliated shops to do before delivery.

vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain

HenryJLittlefinger posted:

Is it a trim level thing or manufacturer preference? When I was shopping for my new bike recently, I think pretty much every new bike I looked at had tubes in tubeless ready wheels and tires.

Shop should be able to do it before you leave with the bike. Most bikes sit with tubes on the floor. Santa Cruz/Cervelo package valves with the bikes, for instance, for this exact purpose.

Quizzlefish
Jan 26, 2005

Am I not merciful?
So tubeless ready essentially means a tubeless tyre but with a tube (possibly) currently in it. Sounds like a faff but a fun one at least.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Quizzlefish posted:

So tubeless ready essentially means a tubeless tyre but with a tube (possibly) currently in it. Sounds like a faff but a fun one at least.

The reality of making + selling anything like this is they sit in warehouses for sometimes quite a while and it simply isn't logistically possible for them to be set up tubeless without a high number of negative PR events around the sealant being dry upon customer receival etc etc. Even if this wasn't the case, there's so many different sealants and customers in this market are insanely picky about stuff like that so you'd be pissing off people no matter which you used. It's simply better for everyone involved for these to ship tube-in!

Boogalo
Jul 8, 2012

Meep Meep




My Roscoe was tubeless ready but with tubes as well. LBS didnt include the valves or sealant with the bike and wanted to charge extra for the setup so I rode the tubes until I got a puncture after about a month then bought my own stems and sealant.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Good shops set up the bike tubeless after the purchase and before you take it home in my experience. Ok shops you talk into it. Bad shops change you.

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vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain

Quizzlefish posted:

So tubeless ready essentially means a tubeless tyre but with a tube (possibly) currently in it. Sounds like a faff but a fun one at least.

The tube is only relevant here when buying a bike. A tubeless ready tire, more generally, just means a tire that has been made with tubeless use in mind.

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