Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker

Geemer posted:

Well, if you do ship it over, make sure it can run on the fuel we use in Europe. Which is mainly E10, though E5 is still available as 'super' for higher price. Diesel I don't know about.
It'd suck to have lugged that thing halfway across the world and then finding out you can't get the right fuel for it.

The US mainly runs E10 also, we even sell E85 here but not all vehicles can safely use it (although the reason is not because they can't power the engine off of it, anything with an oxygen sensor can run on E85 but certain seals/components in the fuel system can corrode or be damaged from it if not designed with E85 in mind). But this is definitely a good thing to consider, fuel blends and vehicle components may not be the same and it may be very unwise to import a vehicle from a different region. Another thing to consider is Europe is even less well equipped to handle larger vehicles than the streets of America are, a smaller vehicle may greatly improve your driving and parking experience in Europe.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

TITTIEKISSER69
Mar 19, 2005

SAVE THE BEES
PLANT MORE TREES
CLEAN THE SEAS
KISS TITTIESS




I'm tinkering with an old laptop for fun, and I've had to replace the motherboard ($30). My current problem is one of the small ribbon cables that slides into a clip - there's a plastic tab that was glued to the cable, but the adhesive has dried up. What's a safe adhesive to reattach it? Without it I can't get the cable to stay under its clip on the motherboard.

To make it clearer, I'm referring to the blue thing in this photo. What's the safest choice to re-stick it to the ribbon cable?

SalTheBard
Jan 26, 2005

I forgot to post my food for USPOL Thanksgiving but that's okay too!

Fallen Rib
I don't think this is the right thread for this, but my parents are interested in having me do some VHS digitization for them. If I get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Capture-Conv...BhoCUKoQAvD_BwE

Is there anything else that I need? (besides a VCR, my parents actually have one of those)

SalTheBard fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Apr 18, 2023

Falcon2001
Oct 10, 2004

Eat your hamburgers, Apollo.
Pillbug

SalTheBard posted:

I don't think this is the right thread for this, but my parents are interested in having me do some VHS digitization for them. If I get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Capture-Conv...BhoCUKoQAvD_BwE

Is there anything else that I need? (besides a VCR, my parents actually have one of those)

From the product reviews seems like people are using it for exactly that purpose, so seems good to me. You'll need some sort of software for it, but it looks like OBS is a functional possibility and that's free, so it'd be more about learning how to use it.

Wrr
Aug 8, 2010


I had a laptop's power supply die on me and I just bought a new one since the old one was, well, old. I pulled out the SSDs from the machine and got some adapters to connect them to my new laptop via USB to pull all the info off of them.

Problem is, the stuff I REALLY need from the SSD lived on my desktop, and windows is naturally throwing up an error about nothing having permissions to use the thing. Is there a way to get past, or should I put the SSD into the actual computer (its also the OS drive), move the files somewhere else, and then move them back once my original drive is back in?

FCKGW
May 21, 2006

You probably need to set the permissions manually on the user folder.

You can follow the steps here

https://www.howtogeek.com/301768/how-to-take-ownership-of-files-and-folders-in-windows/

Important bit is to check the box "Replace owner on subcontainers and objects"

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
Do you feel the same way?
Anyone try one of these bluetooth cassette adapters?

loquacius
Oct 21, 2008

This is I guess a firmware question rather than a hardware question but this still seemed like the best place to put it.

I got laid off and will be losing access to my work laptop with a built-in camera, so I bought a dedicated webcam for the first time (the Logitech c310). It is cheap but well-reviewed. But I'm seeing a weird tearing/glitching problem where a couple of times per minute, like, the bottom half or quarter of the feed will gray out for an instant, or sometimes there'll be like one frame of hosed-up colors or misaligned images or something. Initial research indicates that I should change the camera resolution or framerate. I literally cannot find software to do this. All of Logitech's software appears to be geared toward their higher-end cameras and won't even recognize this one. I found a "Logitech Camera Settings" app which does not have either of those as an option:



(the anti-flicker thing is intended for light flickering and doesn't help, I've tried it)

The Win11 "Manage Cameras" settings menu doesn't either:



So, my question is, is my new webcam literally too cheap to have its resolution or framerate changed, and if not how do I fix the tearing?

loquacius
Oct 21, 2008

Update: ^^^ Still no idea how to change resolution/frame rate, but I don't think I actually have to, as the webcam had been plugged into an external sound card with extra USB ports, which was itself plugged into my keyboard with extra USB ports, which was plugged into my computer. Plugging it in directly seems to have solved the problem. I can't do that long-term because of the way my computer is set up at my desk and the fact that it doesn't have any open USB ports left, so I just bought a dedicated USB hub to plug all this poo poo into in parallel instead of daisy-chaining it into uselessness. Hopefully that works in the long term :toot:

Steve Yun
Aug 7, 2003
I'm a parasitic landlord that needs to get a job instead of stealing worker's money. Make sure to remind me when I post.
Soiled Meat
Hey was the Click of Death about the Zip disks failing or the drive failing?

Thinking of getting a used zip drive for $40 to sort through some old disks

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Is there such thing as a USB hub which can be used between 2 PCs? For example, let's say something like a KVM but without the monitor connections, just sharing keyboards/mice between 2 PCs located close to eachother. Doesn't even need to be USB 3.

Amazon search is just showing USB hubs with a single USB-cord to the PC, but I'd like 2 cords to PCs, maybe with a physical switch to go between the PCs.

Make sense?

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


slidebite posted:

Is there such thing as a USB hub which can be used between 2 PCs? For example, let's say something like a KVM but without the monitor connections, just sharing keyboards/mice between 2 PCs located close to eachother. Doesn't even need to be USB 3.

Amazon search is just showing USB hubs with a single USB-cord to the PC, but I'd like 2 cords to PCs, maybe with a physical switch to go between the PCs.

Make sense?

Like this? https://amzn.eu/d/28VoayG

I have this in my home office for switching mouse and keyboard between my desktop and work laptop

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Exactly like that. Thanks

Eletriarnation
Apr 6, 2005

People don't appreciate the substance of things...
objects in space.


Oven Wrangler

Steve Yun posted:

Hey was the Click of Death about the Zip disks failing or the drive failing?

Thinking of getting a used zip drive for $40 to sort through some old disks

It was a drive issue which could ruin disks' low-level formatting, making them unreadable by properly working drives as well. People got confused because the symptom (clicking) is the same for a broken drive trying to work with any disk as it is for a working drive trying to read a ruined disk, but I don't think there's any indication that the problem was contagious between drives. Reference: https://www.grc.com/tip/codfaq1.htm

As long as the drive you buy is fine, you should be fine, but if it's a broken drive then it might trash your disks.

TheParadigm
Dec 10, 2009

my quick questions of today:

Does thermal paste go bad(ins storage?
Is Arctic Silver 5 still one of the best/default brands?

Basically I put off fixing my computer stuff until taxes/life settled down; and will be doing a fan swap. My loose plan is to order some as5 ceramique(nonconductive) if its still reliable/good brand, just to completely eliminate the chance I gently caress it up.

I have some regular as5 in my computer box, but its as old as this computer so going on a decade.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

TheParadigm posted:

my quick questions of today:

Does thermal paste go bad(ins storage?
Is Arctic Silver 5 still one of the best/default brands?
I'd go with MX5 or Kryonaut over ceramique nowadays. TIM can separate out and anything that old almost certainly has done so.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast

TheParadigm posted:

my quick questions of today:

Does thermal paste go bad(ins storage?
Is Arctic Silver 5 still one of the best/default brands?

Basically I put off fixing my computer stuff until taxes/life settled down; and will be doing a fan swap. My loose plan is to order some as5 ceramique(nonconductive) if its still reliable/good brand, just to completely eliminate the chance I gently caress it up.

I have some regular as5 in my computer box, but its as old as this computer so going on a decade.

I've been using Kryonaut for quite some time, used up a tube and a half, but after much deliberation I'm now going with Arctic MX-6, and have started using it in my builds.
Make of that what you will, there are many options out there.

vv Yeah, NT-H1, they've also made an H2 now. Main reason I never went with it (even though I have several tubes of it) is because of its low viscosity and questions about longevity. But you probably can't go wrong with it, honestly

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 08:16 on Apr 28, 2023

CaptainSarcastic
Jul 6, 2013



The Noctua thermal paste is well thought of - that's what I used on my last build. Performs decent and is super easy to use. I think it was NT-H1, but I don't have the box near me to double-check.

TheParadigm
Dec 10, 2009

Sweet thanks.

yeah, back then, it was the first real nonconductive one you could use so its what my mind went to as a safe option.

I'm glad to see there's better/safer options now!

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

TheParadigm posted:

Does thermal paste go bad(ins storage?
I haven't bought a retail package of thermal paste in some time, but the last one I bought had an expiry date on it.

I still used it 3 years past date and it seemed to work fine, ymmv, etc

Ayndin
Mar 13, 2010

Probably being overly paranoid about this and it's just the SSD making a noise because it's not under much load or something, but I'd rather ask about it and it be nothing than have something failing sneak up on me.

My desktop (running win11) makes a noise generally every 5-15 seconds that I'd best describe as 'hard drive access noise', which wouldn't be of note if I actually had a HDD in the system. I've noticed it for a few months at this point, I think it's getting a little more frequent. There doesn't really seem to be much change in how often it happens based on what I'm doing - if anything it seems less common when I'm gaming or doing something more intensive - but it does not make this noise, or at least does it much less frequently, if I've moved away and the monitors have gone to sleep. Inside of computer could probably use a go-over with some compressed air as it's been a while, but I did do some limited cleaning in there when I first noticed the issue.

Computer is a ABS-branded package deal from Black Friday in 2022 - my 10-yo desktop had something fail (probably either CPU or power supply) when I moved and rather than go galaxy brain on building something when I was without a computer I took the easy way out with a decent deal. RTX 3060, an Intel M.2 SSD, i5 intel processor. Core Temp has things running around 45C and the fans don't seem particularly loud, so unless a cable is bumping into a fan - didn't seem likely last time I was in the case given that there's very little cabling in it with the M.2, but who knows - I don't think that's it. No particularly large changes, I did get upgraded to win11 a few months back but the noise predated this.

edit: no, actually, the monitors going to sleep doesn't stop it, I must have failed at listening before.

Ayndin fucked around with this message at 15:13 on May 1, 2023

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Ayndin posted:

Probably being overly paranoid about this and it's just the SSD making a noise because it's not under much load or something, but I'd rather ask about it and it be nothing than have something failing sneak up on me.

My desktop (running win11) makes a noise generally every 5-15 seconds that I'd best describe as 'hard drive access noise', which wouldn't be of note if I actually had a HDD in the system. I've noticed it for a few months at this point, I think it's getting a little more frequent. There doesn't really seem to be much change in how often it happens based on what I'm doing - if anything it seems less common when I'm gaming or doing something more intensive - but it does not make this noise, or at least does it much less frequently, if I've moved away and the monitors have gone to sleep. Inside of computer could probably use a go-over with some compressed air as it's been a while, but I did do some limited cleaning in there when I first noticed the issue.

Computer is a ABS-branded package deal from Black Friday in 2022 - my 10-yo desktop had something fail (probably either CPU or power supply) when I moved and rather than go galaxy brain on building something when I was without a computer I took the easy way out with a decent deal. RTX 3060, an Intel M.2 SSD, i5 intel processor. Core Temp has things running around 45C and the fans don't seem particularly loud, so unless a cable is bumping into a fan - didn't seem likely last time I was in the case given that there's very little cabling in it with the M.2, but who knows - I don't think that's it. No particularly large changes, I did get upgraded to win11 a few months back but the noise predated this.

edit: no, actually, the monitors going to sleep doesn't stop it, I must have failed at listening before.

Could be coil whine, your sound output having some interference, or a fan issue. You'd need to narrow it down by listening while it's running to different components and maybe unplug/turn off your speakers just to be sure. It can be difficult to nail down what might make a noise so sometimes rolling up a piece of paper to direct the sound from different spots to your ear can help. SSDs don't have moving parts or inductors afaik so I doubt it's making a noise.

JnnyThndrs
May 29, 2001

HERE ARE THE FUCKING TOWELS

Rinkles posted:

Anyone try one of these bluetooth cassette adapters?



Yes, I used one for a year or two before I switched to a Pioneer NEX double-din CarPlay head unit. It worked ok, I don’t think the fidelity was quite as good as either the cheapie plug-in type or the kind that play an SD card, but I don’t know what flavor of Bluetooth protocol it defaulted to either.

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
Do you feel the same way?
It would be for my sister, who got herself an 80s Prelude. She (understandably) doesn’t want a modern looking replacement for the stereo.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

The tech involved is (surprisingly) simple and cheap so the real challenge is just finding one that isn't aliexpress junk that will fall apart and jam the tape deck.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dH4n8fUjtLQ

Robo Reagan
Feb 12, 2012

by Fluffdaddy
Is there a tiny motion sensor camera that I can get to vibrate the hell out of my phone when it detects something vaguely human shaped? I'm working graveyard shift solo and it'd be nice to know if a customer wanders in while I'm in the back with headphones in

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

Robo Reagan posted:

Is there a tiny motion sensor camera that I can get to vibrate the hell out of my phone when it detects something vaguely human shaped? I'm working graveyard shift solo and it'd be nice to know if a customer wanders in while I'm in the back with headphones in

Yeah the wyze cameras can do that. They are like $30 on Amazon.

It needs to be set up on a wifi network (maybe your hotspot could work).

Robo Reagan
Feb 12, 2012

by Fluffdaddy
I tracked down the wifi info first day so that won't be a problem. Thanks

Velius
Feb 27, 2001
My wife spilled sprite into my 9 year old's computer. She quickly unplugged it, and I did some cleaning of the video card and ram, which took the brunt of the sprite, although some most likely also hit the top of the PSU. The motherboard itself seemed largely clear, excepting the logo plate. After some isopropyl washing of things I got it to boot up yesterday, but it wouldn't recognize the video card, but now today it's just flashing the motherboard lights for a second then is unresponsive. This happens without the video card even plugged in. I'm suspecting it's just a write-off, but would the appropriate troubleshooting step be to buy a new PSU and test that with the motherboard (and use it for a new PC build if that's the next step)? I'm about 10 minutes from a Microcenter, but just want to sanity check that I am unlikely to damage a new PSU if I plug it into a potentially suspect motherboard. The PC is about 7 years old so it isn't an enormous loss, but it was working fine and I was hoping to wait until better sales to replace it.

Fruits of the sea
Dec 1, 2010

Does the motherboard have a number read-out or just the flashing light?

Both translate to a specific error code you should be able to find in the motherboard’s manual. The PSU is likely a write-off either way but the error code might help diagnose which part is busted. Might, because it could also point to a problem with another component if they aren’t getting power.

Velius
Feb 27, 2001

Fruits of the sea posted:

Does the motherboard have a number read-out or just the flashing light?

Both translate to a specific error code you should be able to find in the motherboard’s manual. The PSU is likely a write-off either way but the error code might help diagnose which part is busted. Might, because it could also point to a problem with another component if they aren’t getting power.

It's just a flicker on and off once, not a meaningful code, unfortunately.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast

Robo Reagan posted:

Is there a tiny motion sensor camera that I can get to vibrate the hell out of my phone when it detects something vaguely human shaped? I'm working graveyard shift solo and it'd be nice to know if a customer wanders in while I'm in the back with headphones in

I'm pretty fond of the Reolink cameras. Get one of the battery powered ones, they wake up on pir sensor activation. You can just leave it plugged in to a usb charger if you like.

Needs wifi ofc

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Velius posted:

My wife spilled sprite into my 9 year old's computer. She quickly unplugged it, and I did some cleaning of the video card and ram, which took the brunt of the sprite, although some most likely also hit the top of the PSU. The motherboard itself seemed largely clear, excepting the logo plate. After some isopropyl washing of things I got it to boot up yesterday, but it wouldn't recognize the video card, but now today it's just flashing the motherboard lights for a second then is unresponsive. This happens without the video card even plugged in. I'm suspecting it's just a write-off, but would the appropriate troubleshooting step be to buy a new PSU and test that with the motherboard (and use it for a new PC build if that's the next step)? I'm about 10 minutes from a Microcenter, but just want to sanity check that I am unlikely to damage a new PSU if I plug it into a potentially suspect motherboard. The PC is about 7 years old so it isn't an enormous loss, but it was working fine and I was hoping to wait until better sales to replace it.

If it was sprite with sugar it could be gooped up in there, shorting something with syrupy sugar and requiring a full disassembly, meaning each part should be rinsed out and dried with some isopropyl. If it was diet you might not need to be so thorough, but the important thing is to get it all completely dry, which can often mean waiting like a week or more, maybe blasting a fan or two at it for a few days. Liquid will pool up between components and sit in there for long periods of time if it's only got a little bit of surface area touching the air. It's common for people who spill things into their keyboard or drop their phone in water to expect it to be dry a day or two later when it's more like a week or two if it's really gotten liquid trapped inside it.

That said, since it was on when the spill happened, it's possible some components were shorted out and died. There'd be no real way to tell what was damaged without replacing things one piece at a time and for an old system that's likely not worthwhile for a lot of the components. Power supplies should protect themselves from shorts on the power rails but when you've got liquid potentially bridging things that wouldn't normally be it could be a little bit tricky. Just be sure it's all thoroughly dry, and take everything apart to be certain. I'd probably give it a shot since a working system is worth the hassle of a PSU replacement.

Ayndin
Mar 13, 2010

Rexxed posted:

Could be coil whine, your sound output having some interference, or a fan issue. You'd need to narrow it down by listening while it's running to different components and maybe unplug/turn off your speakers just to be sure. It can be difficult to nail down what might make a noise so sometimes rolling up a piece of paper to direct the sound from different spots to your ear can help. SSDs don't have moving parts or inductors afaik so I doubt it's making a noise.

I still get the noise even with my speakers off so I don't think it's that. Briefly listening to the noise makes it sound like it's from either the vicinity of the CPU or GPU but I'll need to get in there with the roll to see, I'll give it a try when I can remember to get some compressed air to go clean the case out.

It's not exactly periodic - sometimes the sound won't happen for a few minutes, sometimes it's every ten seconds or so - and really does remind me of the sound made by a hard drive accessing so I'm not sure how exactly a fan would be doing that without a visible change of speed or something, but hopefully can figure it out with some more probing around. Thanks!

George RR Fartin
Apr 16, 2003




Possibly more of a networking question, but I just called my ISP (Astound, formerly RCN) to do the yearly dance-for-my-lower-rate thing, and it looks like they're a bit more difficult than RCN was about lowering stuff. But: if I go from the current slowest plan (it was 100mbps upped to 250 because they just don't offer anything lower) to the 400mbps plan, I save 30 bucks a month. The rep on the phone noted that because the current modem is rated below the 400mbps speed, it wouldn't be compatible with anything faster and would not function. I just wanted a sanity check on that - I know networking in general, but never delved super deep into the wider ISP end of things, so I would've thought it would work with the current modem, but I wouldn't get the 400mbps, just the 343mbps max the modem offers. I don't mind buying a new modem (gently caress renting) but figured I'd check to see if someone more knowledgeable can confirm or refute that claim.

TITTIEKISSER69
Mar 19, 2005

SAVE THE BEES
PLANT MORE TREES
CLEAN THE SEAS
KISS TITTIESS




It's plausible. What model is your current modem? DOCSIS version and number of downstream+upstream channels are the factors here.

George RR Fartin
Apr 16, 2003




The current one is:

TP-Link TC-7610-E DOCSIS 3.0 (8x4) High Speed Cable Modem | Max Download Speeds Up to 343Mbps

I had seen a lot of ISP's are apparently going to 3.1, and figured for the sake of future proofing (in case next year a faster speed is cheaper than the 400mbps as happened here), I'd get:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Giga...cs%2C108&sr=1-5

I assume 3.0 is gonna be the main problem with the current one?

teraflame
Jan 7, 2009
What are the best case fans to get if I just want quiet reliability? Not using for radiator or anything, only intake/outakes.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

teraflame posted:

What are the best case fans to get if I just want quiet reliability? Not using for radiator or anything, only intake/outakes.

Arctic F14 for 140mm, F12 for 120mm. You can buy noctuas, they're not really any better but sure cost like they are. I have both and I'll stick to Arctics from now on.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

teraflame
Jan 7, 2009

VelociBacon posted:

Arctic F14 for 140mm, F12 for 120mm. You can buy noctuas, they're not really any better but sure cost like they are. I have both and I'll stick to Arctics from now on.

I tried P12 a couple years ago and couldnt stand the noise at certain rpms. Those are much better?

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply