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TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

If your main concern is your personal sense of wellbeing, whatever, that's subjective. If your main concern is actually avoiding injury you should be about 8x as scared of sticking your hand in the blade and some extremely basic safety measures like not standing directly behind the stock will essentially eliminate your risk from kickback

I'm not claiming this is a rational feeling as such. I do think that I have a good handle on how to avoid sticking my hand in the blade, though. Don't use the tool when tired or stressed, and don't position myself or the piece such that my body is applying force or movement towards the blade. Kickback requires more...I guess I'd say, indirect? safety measures, like the riving knife. Not that they don't work, more that at some level I don't believe they work, and thus any time I'm using a table saw, some part of me is expecting it to go BANG! in the middle of a cut.

Like I said, it's not entirely rational. Though I will maintain that the Sawstop is not a safe tool. Eliminating the most common type of injury is great. Still not safe.

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Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I'm not claiming this is a rational feeling as such. I do think that I have a good handle on how to avoid sticking my hand in the blade, though. Don't use the tool when tired or stressed, and don't position myself or the piece such that my body is applying force or movement towards the blade. Kickback requires more...I guess I'd say, indirect? safety measures, like the riving knife. Not that they don't work, more that at some level I don't believe they work, and thus any time I'm using a table saw, some part of me is expecting it to go BANG! in the middle of a cut.

Like I said, it's not entirely rational. Though I will maintain that the Sawstop is not a safe tool. Eliminating the most common type of injury is great. Still not safe.

You can get kickback that takes your hand into the blade from a slight unconscious failure to push straight through. I've had something similar to this guy's video happen
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4
but since I was using a push stick instead of block, it just chewed up the end of the stick and my hand was safe from the blade. I say from the blade because the force that it grabbed the stick with was enough to give my hand a nasty bruise.

Kickback isn't just about having a board go through your sternum, it can also pull you in.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Most hand-in-blade injuries are caused by kickback. This is why riving knives/splitters are the most important piece of safety equipment on any table saw.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

even if you forgo the riving knife and rip fence entirely just not standing behind the stock will keep you out of the line of fire, your wood will go airborne a hell of a lot more but it isn't going to launch at some angle perpendicular to the motion of the blade. You might get some debris in your eye as the board sails past?

Sticking your hands in the blade feels like the kind of thing you should be too smart to do but there's a lot of ways to wind up there, you overbalance and slip or you reach over just the once to pull something free from the outfeed and next thing you know you're in the ER. The vast majority of table saw injuries would never happen if the operator wasn't doing something moronic but as casualties of hubris go it's much harder to get so drunk you stumble into the one spot you should never stand at just the moment the board twists in the blade.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


A Wizard of Goatse posted:

even if you forgo the riving knife and rip fence entirely just not standing behind the stock will keep you out of the line of fire, your wood will go airborne a hell of a lot more but it isn't going to launch at some angle perpendicular to the motion of the blade. You might get some debris in your eye as the board sails past?

Sticking your hands in the blade feels like the kind of thing you should be too smart to do but there's a lot of ways to wind up there, you overbalance and slip or you reach over just the once to pull something free from the outfeed and next thing you know you're in the ER. The vast majority of table saw injuries would never happen if the operator wasn't doing something moronic but as casualties of hubris go it's much harder to get so drunk you stumble into the one spot you should never stand at just the moment the board twists in the blade.

Av post combo?

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

After a lovely morning outside applying shellac & wax, chair number 3 is in the can. Pretty happy with this one. First time doing stretchers, which I think turned out great. I'm also getting better at making the armbow, which is a pretty tricky situation.



Biggest problems are the seat carving sucks (as discussed a few weeks ago), and I think the crest should be thinner (and taller...?). Also the back sticks have a significant lean to the viewer's left. Chair number 2 has the same problem. I'm not sure what's causing that, probably I'm just drilling the holes wrong. It's not really noticeable unless you're looking at it dead-on like in this photo.



Here it is next to chair number 2. Differences include the stretchers, thinner sticks, much wider arms, and dramatically increased leg angles.



I believe my next project will not be another chair, but I'll be back at this again soon. Chairs are really fun to iterate on, they're quick to build and have lots of little things to tweak that make a big difference.

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
I'm guessing the length of the back sticks exaggerates any off-verticalness in the holes, but does the lean of the comb affect the sitting qualities at all? If not, you'll get it better next time. Nice chair.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I know it's a small detail but I greatly prefer the stretchers, they make the chair feel less like it's gonna splat down with all its legs outward. I do think the legs more upright is a bit better, for similar reasons. It's a nice bit of work either way!

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Love the more open armbow and dramatic leg angle, chair as a whole looks very inviting. How's it sit? Have you tried Schwarz's suggestion of a sheep skin?

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Just Winging It posted:

I'm guessing the length of the back sticks exaggerates any off-verticalness in the holes, but does the lean of the comb affect the sitting qualities at all? If not, you'll get it better next time. Nice chair.

No, it's not so dramatic that you feel it while sitting. It just looks a bit cattywompus (as you say ;) ) from certain angles.

Leperflesh posted:

I know it's a small detail but I greatly prefer the stretchers, they make the chair feel less like it's gonna splat down with all its legs outward. I do think the legs more upright is a bit better, for similar reasons. It's a nice bit of work either way!

I like the stretchers, too, and they're actually not as much work as I feared. I think I got them done in one work session, including drilling all the mortises.

My motivation on the leg angles was, both chairs 1 and 2 have a pretty severe tendency to tip backwards with just a little lean in that direction. If you think about it, most of the mass of the chair is way in the back, and you level the chair with a backwards lean at the seat, so you need the rear legs to stick back quite far to compensate. I had tried to fix that with chair 2 but didn't go far enough, so I tried to throw caution to the wind and go "overboard" with the leg angles on this chair. I think it ended up being about right, though.

NomNomNom posted:

Love the more open armbow and dramatic leg angle, chair as a whole looks very inviting. How's it sit? Have you tried Schwarz's suggestion of a sheep skin?

It's good! Haven't tried a skin or cushion. The arms are perhaps a little too wide, both my wife & I naturally sit in it leaning towards one or the other side, instead of sitting upright. Some subtle support on the left & right sides of the sitter's back might resolve that. I might try to accomplish that with more of an angle at the back of the armbow, and let the arms sweep out with less angle. But these are fine-tuning details, overall it's pretty comfy. Honestly all 3 of these have turned out very sittable, I guess it's just a pretty forgiving style.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


New chair is definitely looking ever better! I'd agree about the thinner crest and I think making it taller is a great idea. My brain wants to make the outer back sticks angle out to the side (e: and that might give more of the back support you mention?) and reinvent more of a comb back windsor style chair but that's because I've looked at a million of them and very few stick chairs. I love how it's taking on a style and identity of it's own and becoming Coldpie's stick chair and not Schwarz's or anyone else's stick chair. E2: The thinner sticks make a huge visual difference too imo, and I think you could probably go even thinner without it looks spindly or spidery like some really dainty windsor chairs can get.

E: this piece is a cool stop on the journey towards a comb back windsor from stick chair. No stretchers on it either.


Whereas this has the outward splay of the back spindles and the back has more spindles which cradle the back more?


drat I need to work on my chair project again chairs are so cool.

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 01:54 on May 8, 2023

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

The stick thickness thing is weird. Thinner sticks looks cool & impressive. However, the chair I bought from Schwarz has thin (~1/2 in dia) sticks and I find they actually dig into my back. The thicker sticks on the chairs I've made don't do that. I wonder if a higher number of thinner sticks would avoid the problem, too.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

drat I need to work on my chair project again chairs are so cool.

Do it!

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Pretty good sale on pipe clamps: Woodpeckers bessey clamps

Black iron or galvanized?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


^^^ I much prefer galvanized and last time I looked it was actually slightly cheaper^^^

ColdPie posted:

The stick thickness thing is weird. Thinner sticks looks cool & impressive. However, the chair I bought from Schwarz has thin (~1/2 in dia) sticks and I find they actually dig into my back. The thicker sticks on the chairs I've made don't do that. I wonder if a higher number of thinner sticks would avoid the problem, too.

Do it!

I wonder if you could do sticks with like a D-shaped cross section where your back hits them so they could be thin and dainty but still have a comfortable amount of surface area?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

...slats...

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
Has anyone built a ladder desk? I'm thinking of building one for my bedroom to use mostly as a vanity.

Do they need to be anchored to the wall? Are they actually useful, or just Pinteresting?

jarofpiss
May 16, 2009

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I'm not claiming this is a rational feeling as such. I do think that I have a good handle on how to avoid sticking my hand in the blade, though. Don't use the tool when tired or stressed, and don't position myself or the piece such that my body is applying force or movement towards the blade. Kickback requires more...I guess I'd say, indirect? safety measures, like the riving knife. Not that they don't work, more that at some level I don't believe they work, and thus any time I'm using a table saw, some part of me is expecting it to go BANG! in the middle of a cut.

Like I said, it's not entirely rational. Though I will maintain that the Sawstop is not a safe tool. Eliminating the most common type of injury is great. Still not safe.

im thinking about getting a radial arm saw to avoid kickback, myself

Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009

update re: cedar furniture

decided to plow ahead with my original desire to go screwless, but in trying to map out all the joinery in SketchUp realized I was getting in way over my head. could not work out a good way to construct the design I was going for, and finally settled on building the frame with mortise and tenon/bridle joints and drawbores (shout out to Wizard of Goatse for turning me on to those) and attaching the supports/slats with screws

turns out you all were right and cedar kinda sucks to work with. also hand sawing/chiseling 24 chonky 1x3x3 inch joints is actually not great for carpal tunnel

little rough in some parts but I'm pretty happy with how things turned out:





Jhet
Jun 3, 2013
That looks sharp. The chisel work has paid off in the end.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
drat, that looks great! Nice work!

Olothreutes
Mar 31, 2007

That is a handsome piece of woodworking right there. Very well executed.

Mister Dog
Dec 27, 2005

Relevant to the recent return to tablesaw chat: Made the first cut of the day today a little bleary-eyed, a very simple cross-cut and…plowed cleanly thru my Incra miter gauge, which was in the right-hand miter slot instead of the left where it should have been. Never let your guard down, friends!

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

well now it's an ambidextrous miter gauge

jarofpiss
May 16, 2009

how are benchmark combination squares? should i just bite the bullet and get the starrett instead?

i’m generally inclined toward the buy it for life side of tools, but i’m putting my workbench together this week in my kitchen and already bought the vise etc so saving some money would be nice. even if it’s just 80 bucks or so.

i have some woodworking experience but the last shop i had access to burned down with most of my tools a couple years back. i’m getting the itch again.

this last week i’ve been restoring the hand planes and stuff i was able to salvage. i will be using hand tools the vast majority of the time.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




jarofpiss posted:

im thinking about getting a radial arm saw to avoid kickback, myself

I've used a radial arm saw for many years and can say that ripping lumber is terrifying.

In other news, I put a Forrest blade that was made for cutting composites like MDF on the radial arm saw and tried cross cutting a pine board. As soon as the teeth engaged with the wood, it pulled the saw into the wood so hard that it stopped the blade. I didn't really even need the blade for anything, but it was brand new for $30 and I wasn't going to pass that up.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007


This is a really unique and interesting piece! I quite like these open gapped mitered corner pieces, it would never have occurred to me to do something like that and it looks good. It looked a bit like a planter box at first but with the cushions in place, they feel like they belong there and complete the look.

jarofpiss posted:

how are benchmark combination squares? should i just bite the bullet and get the starrett instead?

Benchmark is a perfectly fine brand and the combo square will be square. Starrett has its deserved reputation for high precision measuring tools but we're wood butchers, and I bet the Benchmark isn't even "less accurate". TBH though I mostly buy used old tools and I haven't found a big difference between a brand new combo square and one salvaged from a milk crate at the flea market, provided it isn't so rusty that it doesn't work any more. If you can slide the ruler part smoothly, lock it in place, draw a sharp blade along the edge without catching on nicks or dents, and read the marks? It'll be fine.

e. And if you're sure you want a brand new one, Irwin is also fine and probably even less expensive. I use my mini 6" irwin constantly and it's $10 on amazon. Actually all the Irwins on on sale on amazon right now!
https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794468/dp/B005XUHIUM/ The 16" is $14.15 which is an insane steal.

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:46 on May 10, 2023

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


that design would make a sick looking planter box too :v:

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
I've been using the same Stanley combination square for the last 30 years for everything from rough carpentry to fine projects and it's held up (beyond the scratch awl falling out about 25 years ago and being lost forever) and stayed square.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
I got some hackberry lumber and I want to make a box from it. Why hackberry? Because the contrasting heartwood and sapwood is really unique and awesome, and I've never seen a wood with this kind of gray color:



The problem is that there's checking and knots I have to work around, so I won't be able to get grain flow all the way around. What wood would you suggest to coordinate or contrast with the hackberry? I'm thinking two opposing sides hackberry and the other two with the other wood, and maybe the top bookmatched hackberry framed with the other wood.

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


Looks kinda like wood left in the sun for a year, neato. My unfinished cedar bird feeder stand is slowly developing a nice gray bleached color

Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009

thanks all, for the kind feedback, struggling to resist the urge to detail everything wrong/that I hate about it

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Stultus Maximus posted:

I got some hackberry lumber and I want to make a box from it. Why hackberry? Because the contrasting heartwood and sapwood is really unique and awesome, and I've never seen a wood with this kind of gray color:



The problem is that there's checking and knots I have to work around, so I won't be able to get grain flow all the way around. What wood would you suggest to coordinate or contrast with the hackberry? I'm thinking two opposing sides hackberry and the other two with the other wood, and maybe the top bookmatched hackberry framed with the other wood.
Maybe a darker wood like walnut? Or maybe ash, as it has a very similar grain and color to the hackberry sapwood. Hackberry looks like elm and ash had a baby to me. If you had any osage orange that could be cool too. The texture of the grain is very similar between the two though with a different color, and I always see the two growing next to each other around here in rich bottomland fencelines.

I think I'd do bookmatched hackberry panel rather than two opposite sides. It keeps it all together and shows it off a bit more than separating the two boards, but I think either would work.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Maybe a darker wood like walnut? Or maybe ash, as it has a very similar grain and color to the hackberry sapwood. Hackberry looks like elm and ash had a baby to me. If you had any osage orange that could be cool too. The texture of the grain is very similar between the two though with a different color, and I always see the two growing next to each other around here in rich bottomland fencelines.

I think I'd do bookmatched hackberry panel rather than two opposite sides. It keeps it all together and shows it off a bit more than separating the two boards, but I think either would work.

I think the darkest I have on hand is black locust, that might work.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I really like black locus it’s so pretty with a simple tung oil finish.

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


Fellatio del Toro posted:

thanks all, for the kind feedback, struggling to resist the urge to detail everything wrong/that I hate about it

Nobody notices but you :ssh:

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name
That looks exactly like butternut, though you wouldn't want anything to do with its sapwood.

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


If you ask the creator of any object or piece of art they will start listing off it's flaws. It's because they made it and all the parts they're satisfied with have been pushed out of mind

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


What I'm saying is I would sit on your cedar couch thing and have a great time

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



jarofpiss posted:

im thinking about getting a radial arm saw to avoid kickback, myself

You're joking? As mentioned elsewhere, the radial arm won't kick back unless you're fool enough to use it to rip lumber. Please don't.

But, lord knows, sumbitch will climb right over a board to getcha. It has a reputation to maintain.


Mister Dog posted:

Relevant to the recent return to tablesaw chat: Made the first cut of the day today a little bleary-eyed, a very simple cross-cut and…plowed cleanly thru my Incra miter gauge, which was in the right-hand miter slot instead of the left where it should have been. Never let your guard down, friends!

You must remember the old adage: Righty tighty, lefty whoopsie dammit. Couldn't have been a cheapass Harbor Fight, Nooooooooooo.

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Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
Much like test cuts on cheap scrap wood, you never gently caress up a cheap tool like that. Only when the primo stuff comes out will it ruin your day.

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