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i am harry
Oct 14, 2003

esquilax posted:

Holy hell is it stressful reaching my hand down into the blades.

I’ve done this so many times…those little yellow corn shaped corncob holders are just nails stuck in molded plastic…I found out after one got sucked down into the disposal.

I’m not in a horror movie, I’m not in a horror movie, my house isn’t haunted and just waiting for me to do this so it can kill me I silently repeat to myself while my fingers scramble around inside the disposal and I see it from the point of view of the horror movie camera down in the disposal

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kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Lol if you don’t lockout/tagout your garbage disposal

Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!
Kill the power to the house and work by candlelight.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Maybe a telescoping magnetic pick-up tool?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Skunkduster posted:

Maybe a telescoping magnetic pick-up tool?

Most metals used for food service items are non-magnetic stainless steels like 304 and 316.

Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009

well gently caress. we've been trying to get hummingbirds to show up to our feeders since last year. a few days ago a little male and female couple showed up and have been hanging around

today the male flew into one of our windows and died :smith:

any recommendations on least obtrusive way to keep this from happening again?

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Leave a few copies of these laying near the feeders

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Fellatio del Toro posted:

well gently caress. we've been trying to get hummingbirds to show up to our feeders since last year. a few days ago a little male and female couple showed up and have been hanging around

today the male flew into one of our windows and died :smith:

any recommendations on least obtrusive way to keep this from happening again?

Do something to make the windows not look like a big clear space they can fly through. They sell stickers specifically to help birds avoid them but frankly they’re ugly as gently caress. Plants hanging down in front of the window helps, curtains can too.

Douche4Sale
May 8, 2003

...and then God said, "Let there be douche!"

We got some little plastic sun catcher kits and let my kids paint them and hung them all over the windows and that seems to have worked.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Ah, that's why the kitchen drain was always slow.



:stare:

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I know it smells crazy in there.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


StormDrain posted:

I know it smells crazy in there.

I didn't stick my face right in it but not as terrible as you might expect. But I am also comfortably locked away in my office while the guy is pulling 12' of pipe filled with that poo poo out in the basement...

Woodsy Owl
Oct 27, 2004
The contractors installing our carpet instructed us to prep our OSB subfloor with Kilz prior to installation. I think it screwed up our subfloor. Stepping near an interior wall results in screw popping sounds as if the screws fastening the bottom plate of the wall to the subfloor were popping. How do I remedy this?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Woodsy Owl posted:

The contractors installing our carpet instructed us to prep our OSB subfloor with Kilz prior to installation. I think it screwed up our subfloor. Stepping near an interior wall results in screw popping sounds as if the screws fastening the bottom plate of the wall to the subfloor were popping. How do I remedy this?

Why do you think the Kilz changed anything?

Woodsy Owl
Oct 27, 2004

meatpimp posted:

Why do you think the Kilz changed anything?

I have read that OSB will warp when wet. I think the Kilz I used was sufficiently wet to warp the OSB. I used Kilz Original Interior Primer (the red can) since I had read that it was suitable for subfloor. It's oil-based but I'm not sure how much that matters though. I imagine it still must have some water content despite being oil-based.

Kilz or not, I'm not sure how to un-bungle the walls. My naive guess is to tear off the trim and cut back enough drywall to expose the bottom plate so I can screw in a bunch of beefy fasteners.

I am also concerned that *if* the OSB is warped that it may be compromising the integrity of my home *if* my home uses engineered joists (idk yet if it does); like they might have a tendency to deflect if the OSB is warped. Some areas where I suspect warping feel pretty bouncy.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Woodsy Owl posted:

I have read that OSB will warp when wet. I think the Kilz I used was sufficiently wet to warp the OSB. I used Kilz Original Interior Primer (the red can) since I had read that it was suitable for subfloor. It's oil-based but I'm not sure how much that matters though. I imagine it still must have some water content despite being oil-based.

Kilz or not, I'm not sure how to un-bungle the walls. My naive guess is to tear off the trim and cut back enough drywall to expose the bottom plate so I can screw in a bunch of beefy fasteners.

I am also concerned that *if* the OSB is warped that it may be compromising the integrity of my home *if* my home uses engineered joists (idk yet if it does); like they might have a tendency to deflect if the OSB is warped. Some areas where I suspect warping feel pretty bouncy.

Where are you getting these hunches? I’m not a handy person but I’ve never heard of some Kilz prepped surface warping enough to cause what you’re talking about. Are you sure you’re not focusing on nail noises that were there all along?

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Woodsy Owl posted:

The contractors installing our carpet instructed us to prep our OSB subfloor with Kilz prior to installation. I think it screwed up our subfloor. Stepping near an interior wall results in screw popping sounds as if the screws fastening the bottom plate of the wall to the subfloor were popping. How do I remedy this?

Absolutely not. This isn't what's happening at all. The amount of paint you'd have to lay to warp OSB would have been a super fund site. Those floors probably got rained on more than once when the house was built and survived. You've done a very normal task and the main risk you should be concerned about was getting oil based primer where it doesn't belong.

Your walls are almost certainly attached to the floor with nails because that's the most cost effective way to build framing, and the fact that your floors are OSB means your house was built with cost in mind.

A few guesses, when you painted it you painted all the corners and that's the sound of paint on paint moving slightly. Or they always made that sound and it's muffled by carpet and now you have a room that has nothing to absorb sound and it stands out. You also have rooms that are completely unloaded with no furniture so the floors react differently to you walking around.

Are you generally a nervous or neurotic person? Do you find faults in appliances, cars, clothes that need to be fixed right away or you expect they'll break? I'm not asking this to be a jerk, it may be your own pattern of behavior that you can recognize and instead of tearing apart drywall you can safely ignore it as "a sound a house makes".

Woodsy Owl
Oct 27, 2004

StormDrain posted:

A few guesses, when you painted it you painted all the corners and that's the sound of paint on paint moving slightly. Or they always made that sound and it's muffled by carpet and now you have a room that has nothing to absorb sound and it stands out. You also have rooms that are completely unloaded with no furniture so the floors react differently to you walking around.

Are you generally a nervous or neurotic person? Do you find faults in appliances, cars, clothes that need to be fixed right away or you expect they'll break? I'm not asking this to be a jerk, it may be your own pattern of behavior that you can recognize and instead of tearing apart drywall you can safely ignore it as "a sound a house makes".

I've been living with this sound for 18 months. All spaces are fully furnished. Just haven't posted about it until now.

I should have mentioned this is a spec house built in 2019, resold to us.

The tricky part of these pops is that they are not easily ignored. They're extremely loud and dramatic. You step near an interior wall on the floor where we had the carpet replaced and the sound may or may not occur. The sound didn't start until the carpet was replaced (over 18 months ago). The Kilz was not applied under the trim.

Nhl, the geoverhaus-esque thread about the guy who cut into his engineered joists also scared me a bit and may have been some extra motivation to post.

Woodsy Owl
Oct 27, 2004
Another hypothesis I have is that truss uplift may be a massive contributor to these sounds. There is a lot of evidence of drywall repair of wall-ceiling edges on the interior walls on the affected floor. My thinking is this: perhaps there are more fasteners securing the ceiling joists to the walls' top plates than there are fasteners securing the walls' bottom plates to the subfloor. With this differential, stepping near the interior wall is enough extra force to cause some of those bottom plate fasteners to make a popping sound as the bottom plate and subfloor separate ever so slightly.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Idk man, like I said I'm not handy. If my house was making loud popping noises or moved underneath my feet in some way, and I was unable to determine a cause, I would go ahead and bring in a pro like a GC or structural engineer for whatever their rough inspection and quote may be. Are you sure it's structural, have you ruled out the subfloor? Will your current contractor not inspect this and see if they can determine a cause?

e: And this even makes sense economically to me. If a GC charges $200 for an opinion and van roll fee, maybe small fixes if identified, that may be better than what I value my time at for labor of removing and replacing painted drywall.

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 03:09 on May 14, 2023

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Woodsy Owl posted:

The contractors installing our carpet instructed us to prep our OSB subfloor with Kilz prior to installation. I think it screwed up our subfloor. Stepping near an interior wall results in screw popping sounds as if the screws fastening the bottom plate of the wall to the subfloor were popping. How do I remedy this?

Sounds like they used smooth-shanked nails when they put that crap down (OSB is used almost everywhere anymore, except commercial builds)

Screw it back down

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

StormDrain posted:

Are you generally a nervous or neurotic person? Do you find faults in appliances, cars, clothes that need to be fixed right away or you expect they'll break?

Try homeownership! Call today to start your free information session, and get connected with a realtor and mortgage broker

Woodsy Owl
Oct 27, 2004
Yea I am worried bad advice can majorly gently caress up the most expensive thing I have and will ever own

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Woodsy Owl posted:

Yea I am worried bad advice can majorly gently caress up the most expensive thing I have and will ever own

We all start there. Some of us progress past that point, and others just rely on other people. In the self-reliance vein, dig into youtube videos, there are a lot of channels dealing with everything from the basics to complex stuff, and it can be really helpful.

In your case, I always make sure the subfloor is gridded out with screws before putting flooring down. That is the best you can do to stop creaks and warping. Probably too late for you now, but you can always just pull up a corner of the carpet where the noise is the worst, screw a couple screws in, and see if that helps. Then you'd need the carpet guy to come back with his knee kicker to get the carpet back in place.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
My kid tried to do some kind of drop & glide kick football thing at a neighbor when playing with their kid and because he did it on their lovely deck, he got a shitload of splinters in his knee that I spent half an hour with pincers, x-acto knife and a pair of optivisors removing.

Anyway I mentioned this to my parents when we visited on sunday and I asked how old is this deck, I can't remember a time when this deck wasn't here and it's looking to be in fine shape.

They said oh this deck was built along with the house in 1977 and those are the original boards. That is several years before my birth. And it's not even pressure treated wood, just regular pine. There is an extension added in the late 80s or early 90s with polycarbonate roofing as well, also untreated planks. Its old enough that the planks are nailed down, not screwed.

So there seems to be two main factors to the longevity.

1. It's under a roof so does not get directly rained on.

2. And I think this is the major reason, it's painted. Not oiled, but real covering paint. It's been stripped and repainted several times over the years, currently it's a light grey. I remember when it was dark brown in the 80s.

So I think that's something worth considering if you got a deck. Our deck is pressure treated and oiled and after 10 years it's not nearly as nice looking as my parents deck. Visibly warped in places too.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe
Finally getting the new evap coil put in tomorrow. It's been over 2 weeks and it sucks. The temperature is down today but it's almost 100% humidity and it feels disgusting. If I'd known it was going to take this long I would have bought a window unit for our bedroom. My girl finally tapped out and I got her and the youngest a hotel room last night since it was 88 inside again.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


His Divine Shadow posted:

My kid tried to do some kind of drop & glide kick football thing at a neighbor when playing with their kid and because he did it on their lovely deck, he got a shitload of splinters in his knee that I spent half an hour with pincers, x-acto knife and a pair of optivisors removing.

Anyway I mentioned this to my parents when we visited on sunday and I asked how old is this deck, I can't remember a time when this deck wasn't here and it's looking to be in fine shape.

They said oh this deck was built along with the house in 1977 and those are the original boards. That is several years before my birth. And it's not even pressure treated wood, just regular pine. There is an extension added in the late 80s or early 90s with polycarbonate roofing as well, also untreated planks. Its old enough that the planks are nailed down, not screwed.

So there seems to be two main factors to the longevity.

1. It's under a roof so does not get directly rained on.

2. And I think this is the major reason, it's painted. Not oiled, but real covering paint. It's been stripped and repainted several times over the years, currently it's a light grey. I remember when it was dark brown in the 80s.

So I think that's something worth considering if you got a deck. Our deck is pressure treated and oiled and after 10 years it's not nearly as nice looking as my parents deck. Visibly warped in places too.

Paint is the best finish for exterior wood, no contest. UV damage is a big part of wood degradation, even for treated or rot-resistant woods and paint is the only finish that protects against that. The US Forest Products Lab has some cool publications that talk about it. Some cool pictures of like 50yr long tests with very rot resistant woods that still shrink and degrade every year just from UV exposure. The lumber used in 1977 was also probably better than what would have been used on your deck. Also, painted surfaces tend to get more maintenance than an unpainted deck imo because people notice when paint peels or degrades and fix it (and probably patch damaged parts at the same time) whereas that damage might be less obvious on an unpainted surface.


The most interesting thing I learned from that FPL documents was about paint failure. They found UV exposure before being painted (even as little as a week or two) is a major cause of paint failure and probably a big part of the reason people think treated lumber doesn’t hold paint well. It’s actually the UV damage that occurs while waiting on the PT wood to dry out enough to be painted that causes poor paint adhesion.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


All of the above is why I just signed a contract to get a deck installed that will be covered in Azek PVC boards. No maintenance needed besides maybe hosing it off occasionally, and it has a 50 year warranty. And if I am somehow still alive and living here in 50+ years, I can recycle it at the end of its useful life too.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

I got quoted $1800 for a boundary survey for a minuscule 0.15 acre lot in a boring rear end subdivision. This price reasonable? I had a location drawing done by this same company before closing, which was $500 but it is only +/- a few feet, and this lot is so cramped that a few feet makes all the difference.

The goal is to put in some plants and beds as close to my neighbors property line as I can, cut back as much brush as I can up to the border of the forested lot behind me, for me to know whether a dead and leaning tree is on my property, and just general knowledge for the future. I do know that the consequences of getting that wrong could be much more costly than $1800. Plus, there is already some funny business going on with my neighbors either intentionally or unintentionally annexing one of the common lots as their own personal combination compost heap/archery range.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

kreeningsons posted:

I got quoted $1800 for a boundary survey for a minuscule 0.15 acre lot in a boring rear end subdivision. This price reasonable? I had a location drawing done by this same company before closing, which was $500 but it is only +/- a few feet, and this lot is so cramped that a few feet makes all the difference.

The goal is to put in some plants and beds as close to my neighbors property line as I can, cut back as much brush as I can up to the border of the forested lot behind me, for me to know whether a dead and leaning tree is on my property, and just general knowledge for the future. I do know that the consequences of getting that wrong could be much more costly than $1800. Plus, there is already some funny business going on with my neighbors either intentionally or unintentionally annexing one of the common lots as their own personal combination compost heap/archery range.

I just paid $600 for mine in a similar size plot in the NC RTP area (which seems like a high-charging area). So that def sounds like a lot.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
I paid like $300, also in NC RTP area, for boundary marking like 5 years ago for a .20 acre lot. They staked each iron pipe and a couple interim points.

This was paid to the company who did the original survey over 20 years ago, and it was simply boundary location/marking. No new drawings were generated or submitted to the county or anything.

I'm also not sure if they actually confirmed that the monuments were in the right place, or if they just were assumed to be correct.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
Is that different than a plat of survey done when buying a house? Cause that's always been just a few hundred bucks for me.

Tezer
Jul 9, 2001

kreeningsons posted:

I got quoted $1800 for a boundary survey for a minuscule 0.15 acre lot in a boring rear end subdivision. This price reasonable? I had a location drawing done by this same company before closing, which was $500 but it is only +/- a few feet, and this lot is so cramped that a few feet makes all the difference.

The goal is to put in some plants and beds as close to my neighbors property line as I can, cut back as much brush as I can up to the border of the forested lot behind me, for me to know whether a dead and leaning tree is on my property, and just general knowledge for the future. I do know that the consequences of getting that wrong could be much more costly than $1800. Plus, there is already some funny business going on with my neighbors either intentionally or unintentionally annexing one of the common lots as their own personal combination compost heap/archery range.

I buy around a dozen residential surveys a year paying around $1,200 to $2,400 per survey, per lot. This includes locating the boundary and improvements, topography, setting any corners that aren't set, flagging all corners with stakes, and recording the survey. I receive a hard copy of the recorded survey as well as a digital version of the PDF and the CAD file.

The cost you have quoted seems reasonable to me, but may be unreasonable for your area. Hard to tell, it comes down a lot of the time how well the original plat was documented.

If you have a good relationship with your neighbor a lot of landscaping stuff can be satisfied by mutual agreement. Not sure what side of the property line a tree is on? If you both agree it isn't clear and both agree to trim/remove, then a survey isn't needed. Generating these kinds of positive relationships with your neighbors will go a long way (if possible - not everyone is reasonable). A survey is a good idea for permanent improvements, I'd include planting new trees in that category. Maybe bushes as well.


Slugworth posted:

Is that different than a plat of survey done when buying a house? Cause that's always been just a few hundred bucks for me.

Around me this is called a 'mortgage survey', the requirements are generally similar but specifically different jurisdiction to jurisdiction. Typically just used to show that all improvements are located on the lot and also shows any easements that cross the lot boundary.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

DaveSauce posted:

They staked each iron pipe and a couple interim points.

This was paid to the company who did the original survey over 20 years ago, and it was simply boundary location/marking.

Yeah this is basically all I want, just to stake the existing markets. Maybe I should find out who the original surveyor was.

Slugworth posted:

Is that different than a plat of survey done when buying a house? Cause that's always been just a few hundred bucks for me.

From the surveyor’s website:

quote:

Boundary Surveys
Boundary Surveys are used to establish the true boundaries of a given property. This type of survey will illustrate the boundaries, monuments and all improvements. A Boundary Survey establishes the true property corners and property lines of a parcel of land. The typical purpose of a Boundary Survey is to obtain building permits, resolve property disputes and for erecting fences along property lines.

Through previously recorded markers and the establishment of new landmarks, a surveyor will establish the true boundaries of a property and then mark the corners and lines of the plot, using markers such as iron rods, pipes or concrete monuments in the ground, or nails set in concrete or asphalt.

A field crew locates all improvements and finds enough monument control to determine the exact location of the property corners.

Title Surveys
Title Surveys are ordered for a loan closing on a real estate transaction. This survey illustrates the lot or tract, monuments, house location and all improvements on or near the lot or tract.

The quote was for a boundary survey.

i am harry
Oct 14, 2003

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Paint is the best finish for exterior wood, no contest. UV damage is a big part of wood degradation, even for treated or rot-resistant woods and paint is the only finish that protects against that. The US Forest Products Lab has some cool publications that talk about it. Some cool pictures of like 50yr long tests with very rot resistant woods that still shrink and degrade every year just from UV exposure. The lumber used in 1977 was also probably better than what would have been used on your deck. Also, painted surfaces tend to get more maintenance than an unpainted deck imo because people notice when paint peels or degrades and fix it (and probably patch damaged parts at the same time) whereas that damage might be less obvious on an unpainted surface.


The most interesting thing I learned from that FPL documents was about paint failure. They found UV exposure before being painted (even as little as a week or two) is a major cause of paint failure and probably a big part of the reason people think treated lumber doesn’t hold paint well. It’s actually the UV damage that occurs while waiting on the PT wood to dry out enough to be painted that causes poor paint adhesion.

I’ve got a shed in the back yard that’s like 100 years old covered in paint it’s roof is it’s own ecosystem but the wooden structure is sound and covered in paint…it’ll be a shame to get rid of it really

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I am married to a professional land surveyor. And she's also a Geomatic professional engineer for good measure so land surveying is in her blood and I get some from osmosis.

Short answer, it depends.

The area where you live may have totally different laws governing surveys which also impact $$. Some places are title based, some places (typically eastern) are deed based, and while the physical survey itself may be comparable there may be a bunch of behind the scenes legalities which can cause some issues. Deed systems for example can take a lot of research and paperwork for filing which may/may not be done by the survey company (versus yourself or lawyer).

In our area at least there are usually 1-2 survey companies that specialize in homes/smallish real estate surveys and subdivisions for residential property. Be it RPR (real-property-report)-title, or full boundary/legal surveys. They typically have done many in the area and already readily know where the pins are all located for tying in.

The larger companies that specialize in commercial jobs or big projects don't often like dealing with the small stuff, so while they may give you a quote the price it at a level that makes it high enough to be worth their while... and vice versa, the small companies are usually not even going after the big jobs.

It's kinda like lawyers, and doctors and other professions. They all have their specialty. If you get a price that seems crazy high, it could just be the market or it could be they don't want the job.

That said, depending on the location even within the same jurisdiction there can be MASSIVE cost differences. Mrs. just told me a story where someone wanted to do a survey for their lot as the property owner could not find any pins. The problem was that the physical location they were at had no existing lot pins, they only had it in the block (due to the time time area was originally surveyed in the 20s). A full survey would have cost the client approx $5K just due to the time involved. Comparably, a lot in a newer subdivision just down the road only cost $1200.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

slidebite posted:

I am married to a professional land surveyor. And she's also a Geomatic professional engineer for good measure so land surveying is in her blood and I get some from osmosis.

Short answer, it depends.

The area where you live may have totally different laws governing surveys which also impact $$. Some places are title based, some places (typically eastern) are deed based, and while the physical survey itself may be comparable there may be a bunch of behind the scenes legalities which can cause some issues. Deed systems for example can take a lot of research and paperwork for filing which may/may not be done by the survey company (versus yourself or lawyer).

In our area at least there are usually 1-2 survey companies that specialize in homes/smallish real estate surveys and subdivisions for residential property. Be it RPR (real-property-report)-title, or full boundary/legal surveys. They typically have done many in the area and already readily know where the pins are all located for tying in.

The larger companies that specialize in commercial jobs or big projects don't often like dealing with the small stuff, so while they may give you a quote the price it at a level that makes it high enough to be worth their while... and vice versa, the small companies are usually not even going after the big jobs.

It's kinda like lawyers, and doctors and other professions. They all have their specialty. If you get a price that seems crazy high, it could just be the market or it could be they don't want the job.

That said, depending on the location even within the same jurisdiction there can be MASSIVE cost differences. Mrs. just told me a story where someone wanted to do a survey for their lot as the property owner could not find any pins. The problem was that the physical location they were at had no existing lot pins, they only had it in the block (due to the time time area was originally surveyed in the 20s). A full survey would have cost the client approx $5K just due to the time involved. Comparably, a lot in a newer subdivision just down the road only cost $1200.

Here's how the boundary lines for my property are described:



This is from a deed from the late 20s where some property was subdivided from a larger plot for building this house. The original, handwritten deed has actually been digitized and I can only barely read it.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Danhenge posted:

This is from a deed from the late 20s where some property was subdivided from a larger plot for building this house. The original, handwritten deed has actually been digitized and I can only barely read it.

That looks very much like my deed and all of them I've seen in this part of eastern PA. Philly may be different.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Motronic posted:

That looks very much like my deed and all of them I've seen in this part of eastern PA. Philly may be different.

Have you had a survey with one of these deeds? I've been wondering how it goes. Seems like you'd have to start at the end of the street or something.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Danhenge posted:

Have you had a survey with one of these deeds? I've been wondering how it goes. Seems like you'd have to start at the end of the street or something.

I had a property transfer survey done, not a real deal boundary survey. I was actually able to find all but one of the monuments myself just going based on whatever information seemed to make sense and guessing who used to own what from an old map/plat of the township when it was owned by not much more than a couple dozen people in total that I randomly found and framed to put in my hallway because it looked cool. Who knew that would come in useful?

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