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BonoMan posted:2008 Honda Civic. It sounds like a ford power steering pump. If you're stopped and turn the steering wheel side to side enough to load the pump, does it make the noise as well? You can check the power steering fluid level, it should be the canister with the red cap right beside your windshield washer fluid reservoir.
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May 18, 2023 16:17
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Ja you need to determine if it's the alternator, the power steering pump, or some other part of the peripherals first, since it changes with engine speed. If you are having trouble distinguishing: while it's idling, take a long-shanked screwdriver and put the blade end against the alternator, then the PS pump, and the A/C compressor if it has A/C, and stick your ear against the handle. (You can also buy an automotive stethescope) Some noise is normal, but that whining should stand out. If they're fine, then it's probably your transmission crying for a filter & fluid change
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May 18, 2023 16:26
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Belts tend to squeak, I'd check there too. Accessory belt first.
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May 18, 2023 16:27
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Captain Log posted:gently caress me running, I didn't even think to look underneath the cover for a zipper. That's next. https://www.amazon.com/UXELY-Armrest-Pillow-Console-Support/dp/B08Y6HC7BX Also search for padded wheel chair arms, theyre cheap too and come in many sizes. e: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Desk-Length-Wheelchair-Arm/dp/B00NY2YYOY Cage fucked around with this message at 16:43 on May 18, 2023 |
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May 18, 2023 16:40
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Cage posted:There are ways to semi-class it up. You can probably find other dimensions.  Y'all are the best. I'm installing an accelerator pedal riser soon thanks to my hosed up legs. I'll report back when that's done.
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May 18, 2023 16:47
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General maintenance question: I have a 2014 Mazda 6 (edit: automatic). I bought it new, and it's the first new car I've ever owned, so these lower mileage maintenance milestones are new to me. I'm coming up on 70k miles and I'm trying to figure out what I need to be doing outside of basic oil changes and tire rotations, which I've mostly been doing myself. I believe I'm due for a coolant flush and spark plugs in about 5k miles, but I don't know what other major stuff I should be doing. That said, one of the things I'm considering is transmission fluid service. Never done it on this car, and the manual is silent on the matter, and frankly I've never had a car under 80k miles before this one so I'm clueless here. Now, the internet tells me that I should do a transmission drain and fill, rather than a proper flush. Some sources say I should have done it 5k or even 10k miles ago. Since all my previous cars have been higher mileage, I've always been told that unless you do a proper flush with regularity, that you should avoid it at since it can actually do more harm than good. Is 70k beyond the point of no return for a flush? Is a flush really all that much better than a drain and fill? I'm figuring on keeping this car for another 3 years at least. As an aside, this is something I'd have a mechanic do, mostly due to time constraints... so I want to make sure I know what exactly to tell them to do. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 18:05 on May 18, 2023 |
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May 18, 2023 16:57
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Powershift posted:It sounds like a ford power steering pump. Oh you know what. Last time I was at the mechanic he said he thought the power steering pump was starting to leak. Said it wasn't an immediate need but would be soon. Wonder if I've hit "soon" lol
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May 18, 2023 16:59
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DaveSauce posted:General maintenance question:  https://www.mazdausa.com/siteassets/pdf/owners-optimized/2014/mzd6/2014-mazda6-maintenance-schedule.pdf Is that an automatic transmission? The fluid might be intended to be in there for "lifetime" but you probably won't hurt anything by replacing it. But I'd leave that for people who understand these magical devices.
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May 18, 2023 17:53
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socketwrencher posted:Yeah makes sense. The car that raised the question today is a friend's 2015 Prius, a Gen 3 model that had 5 years to make a change if a change was desired. Sure, there's time to make a change. But again, it's extremely expensive to make any changes on the wiring harness itself and you absolutely would not do it if you didn't absolutely have to. I can't say details but I've had experiences where OEMs have chosen extremely (relatively speaking) expensive options in lieu of making even a simple change on a wiring harness assembly. I can't stress enough how much you're asking for when asking for a wiring harness assembly change. The fact that you're asking for it to circumvent the actual repair process also means that it's just not even going to be considered, unfortunately. Plus when I said "costs money", I meant that the extra harness length is going to mean the harness assembly will cost more. More wire = more money. The level of scrutiny parts undergo to save money sometimes is insane but it adds up.
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May 18, 2023 18:00
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mobby_6kl posted:Your manual should have a service schedule like this in it, I'd just go with whatever is recommended Yeah that's the thing, the manual doesn't have any recommendations for transmission fluid... at least not that I could find. The internet seems to think it should be done regardless, but I don't know if that's out of an abundance of caution or because it actually DOES need to be done. I'm not much of a car person, but my experience with "lubricated for life" is that it's a marketing term that really just means the whole thing is considered a wear item... as in the "life" of the item is technically considered over before you have to change the fluid. It is in fact an automatic, which I'll edit in to my post since it's relevant.
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May 18, 2023 18:05
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DaveSauce posted:Yeah that's the thing, the manual doesn't have any recommendations for transmission fluid... at least not that I could find. The internet seems to think it should be done regardless, but I don't know if that's out of an abundance of caution or because it actually DOES need to be done. Tentatively, I would recommend a fluid and filter change at a trustworthy place, be very careful about buying the correct (OE) filter/fluid. Never, ever, ever get it flushed. Just a change should be enough.
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May 18, 2023 18:49
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“Lifetime” always means “until the end of warranty,” and nothing else. It’s what the manufacturer considers the lifetime of the car.
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May 18, 2023 19:08
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2005 Ford Crown Victoria 4.6L FI SOHC 8cyl, 170,500~ miles. I've got a bit of a knocking/rattling going on in the engine. https://i.imgur.com/YNrA0x8.mp4  My guess is that it's this part, which google tells me is a belt tensioner? I just had the alternator replaced last week and they put a new belt on. If it is the tensioner, is there anything I can do besides replacing it? I looked at some YouTube videos and it doesn't look terribly complicated; I managed to replace the fuel filter on this car with just a YouTube video and I haven't exploded yet.
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May 18, 2023 19:09
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You might be able to squirt something in the bearing to make it go away temporarily (not recommending this) but sounds like that bearing in your tensioner is toast and will need replacement in the next couple of weeks if not sooner
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May 18, 2023 19:22
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Better to replace a tensioner than a water pump.
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May 18, 2023 19:26
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DaveSauce posted:Yeah that's the thing, the manual doesn't have any recommendations for transmission fluid... at least not that I could find. The internet seems to think it should be done regardless, but I don't know if that's out of an abundance of caution or because it actually DOES need to be done. But yeah, don't listen to Mazda's lies. My fluid was pretty dark at 120k miles and changing it helped out a lot. If it's an auto, and you've changed motor oil before, I guarantee you can change the transmission fluid. The differences I've found on this car is that you have to remove the undercarriage cover (easy), then unscrew the transmission drain bolt using a hex bit socket. The rest of it is just like an oil change. Let the fluid drain, put a new washer on, torque the bolt. My car doesn't have a filler hole, so I had to use the dip stick, which is easy to do with a proper funnel setup. Warm it up, check that it has enough fluid, and that's basically it. I feel like folks charge more for this because it's a less commonly called for job. I checked an old receipt and was charged $60 for fluid, then another $150 for labor. It was completely outrageous, since I can get it done at home in 20 mins flat. My car is high in mileage now so I just use Valvoline Max Life. It's not much more for OEM, so do that if you can find it easy enough. Bank fucked around with this message at 20:59 on May 18, 2023 |
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May 18, 2023 20:57
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totalnewbie posted:Sure, there's time to make a change. Good points across the board. I guess I was thinking more about how such things were deemed acceptable in the design phase, but if something is good enough then why spend time and money to make it better. My wife once worked for a well-known company whose product lines include condiments. Typical setup where you remove the cap on the bottle to remove the inner seal before using. The inner seal had no tab, which made it hard for some to remove. Focus groups showed that most people just jammed a knife or finger through the seal. How about adding a tab, suggested the wife. Haha yeah right, is it time for lunch yet? was the response.
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May 19, 2023 00:34
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DaveSauce posted:Yeah that's the thing, the manual doesn't have any recommendations for transmission fluid... at least not that I could find. The internet seems to think it should be done regardless, but I don't know if that's out of an abundance of caution or because it actually DOES need to be done. If it's got a dip stick (or way to check the level, some are fill till it runs out the fill hole) definitely change it. If it's got a drain bolt it'll be easy. Don't flush. Check if your manual has a section on checking the level. Some cars are off and cold. Most are idling in park or neutral at operating temp.
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May 19, 2023 00:52
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socketwrencher posted:Good points across the board. I guess I was thinking more about how such things were deemed acceptable in the design phase, but if something is good enough then why spend time and money to make it better. There's other stuff to think about as well. I'm not saying it applies here, but increasing harness lengths unnecessarily could introduce possibilities for mistakes during assembly as you can now reach the incorrect connectors due to the increased lengths. Increased harness lengths could also mean you have extra slack in the harness that could contact other areas on the vehicle leading to wire damage and shorts, or you could need extra brackets which introduce another point of failure, more cost, etc. I'm not saying they made it perfectly, but it's just that "people with small hands could potentially avoid some work" is not very high on the list of things to think about and what may be better for you personally does not necessarily mean it's better overall.
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May 19, 2023 01:54
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DildenAnders posted:Tentatively, I would recommend a fluid and filter change at a trustworthy place, be very careful about buying the correct (OE) filter/fluid. What’s wrong with a flush?
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May 19, 2023 13:07
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a primate posted:What’s wrong with a flush? Transmissions tend to accumulate a fair amount of crud in harmless places. Leaving it there is fine. A flush will stir it all up and the sudden volume can clog narrow passages and otherwise damage stuff that was previously working fine.
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May 19, 2023 13:43
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Admiral Joeslop posted:2005 Ford Crown Victoria 4.6L FI SOHC 8cyl, 170,500~ miles. Hi thread it's me again. The belt tensioner isn't rattling but is still moving in the same way so it's on the short list of repairs. However I have a different problem now; I've got a misfire in cylinder 7 according to the AutoZone computer reader. How much would I expect to pay a mechanic for spark plug or ignition coil replacement? The coils themselves seemed very pricey but I also don't have the tools for spark plug replacement to do it myself so would need to get some. If I decide to replace the spark plugs myself, I'll need some kind of extender to turn them and I guess a magnetic extender to pull them out, plus the cost of the plugs themselves. Any particular thing about the plugs that I should look at when buying, such as manufacturer, what it's made of, etc. If that doesn't work I'll have to take it in to replace the coils because those are way more expensive and I don't want to mess that up. Edit: Uh, how bad of an idea is it to eBay parts? https://www.ebay.com/itm/3341804837...emis&media=COPY That's almost a quarter of the price that AutoZone wants for just the coils. Is this a case of Too Good To Be True? Admiral Joeslop fucked around with this message at 20:52 on May 19, 2023 |
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May 19, 2023 17:34
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Admiral Joeslop posted:Hi thread it's me again. The belt tensioner isn't rattling but is still moving in the same way so it's on the short list of repairs. However I have a different problem now; I've got a misfire in cylinder 7 according to the AutoZone computer reader. If you can wait 2-3 days rock auto is where to get parts. They'll crush AutoZone and be legit. Idk that car exactly but pulling plugs is halfway to coils already. If it's individual coils per cylinder you'll have to pull it to do the plugs anyway. Find some YouTube vids on it and assess if you think you can do it.
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May 20, 2023 00:55
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honda whisperer posted:If you can wait 2-3 days rock auto is where to get parts. They'll crush AutoZone and be legit. Yeah it didn't look very hard at all upon further review, I just couldn't afford $360 worth of Ignition Coils. $150 for the coils and eight Motocraft Platinum plugs is a much easier pill to swallow, even if they end up not lasting as long as more expensive ones. Got the belt tensioner for 1/4 the price too. The check engine lot came on and stayed on on the way home tonight instead of flashing for a bit. Hopefully the parts get here quickly enough, I need to use this stupid car for work.
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May 20, 2023 01:12
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a primate posted:What’s wrong with a flush? What Deteriota said, also the flushes can push out seals and mess up internal components. Changing 60% of the fluid is generally more than good enough as long as you do it often enough.
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May 20, 2023 02:23
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I did a thing, and it loving worked. It took an ungodly amount of fiddling, but I'm pretty sure I couldn't knock it loose with a sledge. It was only possible because I have a little tiny workbench on wheels. Otherwise, I'd have no hope of getting down there and being able to get back up thanks to my hosed legs.  Next step - This too-floppy armrest bullshit. 
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May 20, 2023 04:33
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Captain Log posted:I did a thing, and it loving worked. It took an ungodly amount of fiddling, but I'm pretty sure I couldn't knock it loose with a sledge. The pedal looks great. Good luck with the armrest!
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May 20, 2023 04:54
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Captain Log posted:I did a thing, and it loving worked. It took an ungodly amount of fiddling, but I'm pretty sure I couldn't knock it loose with a sledge. Are those nylock nuts, or did the instructions recommend you use thread locker or anything? I'd hate for that to vibrate loose and get wedged behind your brake pedal, or something equally catastrophic
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May 20, 2023 07:06
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Hadlock posted:Are those nylock nuts, or did the instructions recommend you use thread locker or anything? I'd hate for that to vibrate loose and get wedged behind your brake pedal, or something equally catastrophic I followed the instructions to a T. It uses nuts with those little nylon rings that makes them cinch onto the bolt like a glove. It also has a bolt threaded across the back of the pedal, and about four tiny Allen key screws that are hard to see that also make the thing grip onto the accelerator. I swapped out all the bolts to the appropriate size, making it to where it physically could not interfere with the brake pedal. Absolute worst case scenario, if it somehow came loose, I'd still be able to manipulate the accelerator by simply pressing on the pedal itself. It was a fiddly loving process that took my broken rear end two days to get right. But after driving around the neighborhood for a while, it's breathtaking how different it is to have a car that "fits" my legs. Truth be told, it improves my reaction time between the pedals to the point where the car feels sportier.
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May 20, 2023 11:59
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That's fabulous. Well done, sir
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May 20, 2023 13:06
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Stainless steel (Walker QUIET-FLOW  ) or aluminized steel (ANSA OE Design)? I'm replacing the front/center muffler and rear muffler on a 97 VW cabrio/golf. The price difference between the two is $8, and only bc of the front muff, the rears are identically priced at $79.79 @ rockauto. From what I (extremely limitedly) understand the aluminized steel will better resist heat deformation/etc and the stainless will hold up better to corrosion and rust, but I can't imagine the difference would matter all that much to me on some commodity-grade exhaust parts. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 15:39 on May 20, 2023 |
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May 20, 2023 15:36
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People who want their exhaust parts to last for a long time and look nice and shiny tend to spring for stainless. Aluminized is like galvanized (which uses zink) in that it's a thin corrosion inhibiting coating on the surface of otherwise mild steel which will rust given a chance, the coating is meant to slow the process down but it won't stop it completely for very long. Stainless is usually noticeably more expensive since it's a pricier material and a little more difficult to work with. If I had to replace mufflers on my shitbox and there was no price difference I'd probably go with the stainless because it's fancier. On my car it wouldn't matter because it will probably be in the junkyard before any newly replaced exhaust bits need replacement again. I don't know how you feel about your Golf.
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May 20, 2023 16:14
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Invalido posted:People who want their exhaust parts to last for a long time and look nice and shiny tend to spring for stainless. Aluminized is like galvanized (which uses zink) in that it's a thin corrosion inhibiting coating on the surface of otherwise mild steel which will rust given a chance, the coating is meant to slow the process down but it won't stop it completely for very long. Stainless is usually noticeably more expensive since it's a pricier material and a little more difficult to work with. If I had to replace mufflers on my shitbox and there was no price difference I'd probably go with the stainless because it's fancier. On my car it wouldn't matter because it will probably be in the junkyard before any newly replaced exhaust bits need replacement again. I don't know how you feel about your Golf. It's my dad's and we're (reasonably) restoring it back to "nice enough" shape. Looks like stainless it is, thanks.
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May 20, 2023 16:34
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DaveSauce posted:Yeah that's the thing, the manual doesn't have any recommendations for transmission fluid... at least not that I could find. The internet seems to think it should be done regardless, but I don't know if that's out of an abundance of caution or because it actually DOES need to be done. You need to find a shop that has a passive machine, meaning it doesn't use high pressure to "flush" anything, it just replaces all the old fluid with new fluid. I worked at a mazda dealership for a few years and we had one, made by BG products but there are others. Just make sure it's passive and you'll be fine. The problem with just draining and filing is you only get about half the old fluid out, hooking it up to a proper machine gets all the old poo poo outta there. And yes it must be done unless you want issues in the future, once you wait too long it's kinda too late to really do much about it once any damage is done. Deteriorata posted:Transmissions tend to accumulate a fair amount of crud in harmless places. Leaving it there is fine. A flush will stir it all up and the sudden volume can clog narrow passages and otherwise damage stuff that was previously working fine. Depends on the machine, I would never let any shop use a high pressure machine at any point on any of my cars.
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May 20, 2023 19:20
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Admiral Joeslop posted:Yeah it didn't look very hard at all upon further review, I just couldn't afford $360 worth of Ignition Coils. $150 for the coils and eight Motocraft Platinum plugs is a much easier pill to swallow, even if they end up not lasting as long as more expensive ones. Got the belt tensioner for 1/4 the price too. You'll need a 7mm socket for the coils. Also get some dielectric grease for the boots. Plugs angle backwards. Never changed them in a CV, only trucks so hopefully you have more room on the rear ones. Different extensions/swivels will be your friend.
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May 20, 2023 19:28
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:You'll need a 7mm socket for the coils. Also get some dielectric grease for the boots. Plugs angle backwards. Never changed them in a CV, only trucks so hopefully you have more room on the rear ones. Different extensions/swivels will be your friend. I've got a 7mm socket, and a 10" magnetic 5/8" swivel socket and plug gapper coming. I'll pick up some grease before I start; how much should go on the boot? Also the boot is the long part of the ignition coil, the bottom part that goes in the hole, right?
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May 20, 2023 20:54
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Thank you all so much for the help. I know this picture doesn't mean much, but I've been able to make the arm not go down so far with a little wedge of curved foam in the metal channel within the arm.  Uh-oh, a new challenger appears -  Any thoughts for a good way to handle this that wouldn't look like a pillowcase? I know somebody linked a Pic'-n'-pull website, along with another sight with $350 seat covers. Pulling an entire seat would be extremely hard with my limitations, and $350 for something that would only bother me is a bit much. Also, I found maybe a 2mm chip in the paint on the hood. What's the recommended product for fixing tiny little paint chips like that? I don't care if it's perfect, I just don't want to chip to grow in size.
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May 20, 2023 21:01
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edit: Found someone locally with the part
two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 00:00 on May 21, 2023 |
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May 20, 2023 21:10
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Admiral Joeslop posted:I've got a 7mm socket, and a 10" magnetic 5/8" swivel socket and plug gapper coming. I'll pick up some grease before I start; how much should go on the boot? Also the boot is the long part of the ignition coil, the bottom part that goes in the hole, right? Yes. If you pull the boot off you'll basically find a long spring sitting in there. Couple schools of thought on the grease. I usually tend to squirt a nice glob into the plug end. It also helps with the boot not becoming fused to the end of the plug if you ever have to yank one again in the future. That is not fun if that happens. When the new one goes on, it will feel a little floppy but should be touching the screw boss or darn close before you screw it down.
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May 20, 2023 21:15
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How do you measure CFM of a head
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May 21, 2023 06:46
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