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FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
I got some pretty cool epoxy drink coasters at an art fair a few years ago, but yeah now that I think of it, they had loads of kitchen pieces in that same vein.

I'm still happy with the coasters at least.

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Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

FISHMANPET posted:

I got some pretty cool epoxy drink coasters at an art fair a few years ago, but yeah now that I think of it, they had loads of kitchen pieces in that same vein.

I'm still happy with the coasters at least.

Most epoxies are food safe, or at least there are plenty of food-safe epoxies available. They don't leach anything once they've set.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Deteriorata posted:

Most epoxies are food safe, or at least there are plenty of food-safe epoxies available. They don't leach anything once they've set.

It’s the chipping from being cut that’s not so great. I wouldn’t worry about food being set on it. Same reason plastic cutting boards are supposed to be replaced far sooner than people replace them. And they don’t close up on cut lines like wood does when it swells.

Tbf, I had the same reaction in a conversation where someone said they don’t keep baking soda in their kitchen because they never use it. To which I replied, then how do you eat? They just meant they didn’t use baking soda. You can see where this goes.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

Jhet posted:

Tbf, I had the same reaction in a conversation where someone said they don’t keep baking soda in their kitchen because they never use it. To which I replied, then how do you eat? They just meant they didn’t use baking soda. You can see where this goes.

I love posts like this. They make me feel like rain man trying to comprehend who's on first

Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009

am I supposed to be doing a lot more with baking soda than putting it in cakes?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Fellatio del Toro posted:

am I supposed to be doing a lot more with baking soda than putting it in cakes?

Muffins, waffles, pancakes...

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Stultus Maximus posted:

Muffins, waffles, pancakes...

...volcanos...

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

it's useful for scrubbing things like a stovetop or a sink. just a very mild abrasive that's cheap and food safe

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

It is also an odor absorbent. My parents used to keep an open box in the fridge, to absorb fridge smells. It's also added to kitty litter, to keep down cat piss smell. Bicarbonate of soda is useful stuff.

Jhet's post is still confusing. I do not, still, "see where this goes."

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Leperflesh posted:

It is also an odor absorbent. My parents used to keep an open box in the fridge, to absorb fridge smells. It's also added to kitty litter, to keep down cat piss smell. Bicarbonate of soda is useful stuff.

Jhet's post is still confusing. I do not, still, "see where this goes."

We spent 10 minutes arguing about the use of a kitchen. It goes someplace boring.

Rufio
Feb 6, 2003

I'm smart! Not like everybody says... like dumb... I'm smart and I want respect!
I eat just fine without any baking soda so I am blind to where anything is supposed to go

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


I was wandering around and discovered that James Krenov, the namesake of the Krenov plane, has both a foundation and an archive site.

Virtual exhibition for Krenov's 100th birthday
http://thekrenovarchive.org/ has close-up photographs of objects, design sketches, and some lectures by Krenov.

drat, look at these dovetails.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


[rant]
Have any of y'all ever successfully made a waterfall table or other large mitered thing that was actually square in both directions and tight on both the inside and outside of the miter? This is driving me loving insane. Too thick and long to do on a crosscut sled on the table saw, I can't get my fancy new Festool track saw dialed into exactly balls on 45 degree bevel or an exactly perfect 90 crosscut and aaaaaaaaaghhh I'm goin insane. Do I have to build some sort of giant miter shooting board as wide as the table or something? Are all those youtubers just way better at cutting miters than I am or do they just never show a closeup and their miters are gappy and their tables are slightly twisted? I could have dovetailed this in half the time I've spent loving around with it and I think a dovetail with a miter on the front is what I'll do tomorrow because gently caress this. I feel like the waterfall table was invented to sell sliding table saws because it would be trivial on one and is frustrating most any other way.
[/rant]

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

[rant]
Have any of y'all ever successfully made a waterfall table or other large mitered thing that was actually square in both directions and tight on both the inside and outside of the miter? This is driving me loving insane. Too thick and long to do on a crosscut sled on the table saw, I can't get my fancy new Festool track saw dialed into exactly balls on 45 degree bevel or an exactly perfect 90 crosscut and aaaaaaaaaghhh I'm goin insane. Do I have to build some sort of giant miter shooting board as wide as the table or something? Are all those youtubers just way better at cutting miters than I am or do they just never show a closeup and their miters are gappy and their tables are slightly twisted? I could have dovetailed this in half the time I've spent loving around with it and I think a dovetail with a miter on the front is what I'll do tomorrow because gently caress this. I feel like the waterfall table was invented to sell sliding table saws because it would be trivial on one and is frustrating most any other way.
[/rant]

Can't you just trim or shim the bottom edge (the edge that rests on the ground) to compensate for being off on a 90 crosscut? Then you can focus on the 45 only? If you do dovetails, do half-blind mitres like I did on my media console.

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?
Wood putty can cover a multitude of sins. Bury those miters like they are tell tale hearts.

Or just make a trim piece to hide it.

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009

Leperflesh posted:

It is also an odor absorbent. My parents used to keep an open box in the fridge, to absorb fridge smells. It's also added to kitty litter, to keep down cat piss smell. Bicarbonate of soda is useful stuff.

Jhet's post is still confusing. I do not, still, "see where this goes."

I think it's a "my dog has no nose" style joke

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I've seen more than once people recommend cutting at 44.9 but I've never tried it.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

[rant]
Have any of y'all ever successfully made a waterfall table or other large mitered thing that was actually square in both directions and tight on both the inside and outside of the miter?

Only once, and the piece was about 2" thick. The only way I got it perfect was to cut the miter as accurately as possible and then use a hand plane to slightly hollow out the center, and then very gently fettle the outer edges of both miters with 120 grit on a flat, hard sanding block.

Also gently caress miters, I still struggle with them. I'd rather dovetail, boxjoint, or mortise any day.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

[rant]
Have any of y'all ever successfully made a waterfall table or other large mitered thing that was actually square in both directions and tight on both the inside and outside of the miter? This is driving me loving insane. Too thick and long to do on a crosscut sled on the table saw, I can't get my fancy new Festool track saw dialed into exactly balls on 45 degree bevel or an exactly perfect 90 crosscut and aaaaaaaaaghhh I'm goin insane. Do I have to build some sort of giant miter shooting board as wide as the table or something? Are all those youtubers just way better at cutting miters than I am or do they just never show a closeup and their miters are gappy and their tables are slightly twisted? I could have dovetailed this in half the time I've spent loving around with it and I think a dovetail with a miter on the front is what I'll do tomorrow because gently caress this. I feel like the waterfall table was invented to sell sliding table saws because it would be trivial on one and is frustrating most any other way.
[/rant]

Assuming, since you're talking sliding table, the pieces are too broad to use your existing table saw and miter gauge. How about rip them down the middle, get your best 45° with scraps, add a contrast stripe where you'll glue it back up, then try your miter gauge? That's all I got. But, hell, dovetails, boom, no kludgery.

blunt for century
Jul 4, 2008

I've got a bone to pick.

I work full time in a professional wood shop, but it's run by two folks who don't really "get" woodworking, tool maintenance, or shop safety. Currently my two biggest hurdles here are dust and air compressors. They'll just let these things run all day and night without use, just slowly leaking and refilling to 150psi. Apparently I'm also the only one here who drains the condensation from them (got a liter and a half from the 15gal DeWalt my first time draining it). I've left notes around the shop, notes on the door, brought it up in shop meetings and individually, but nothing seems to work.

Can y'all post or DM me horror stories about air compressor explosions so I can get this through their thick skulls?

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I have two Bosch sanders. One is a bad-rear end motherfucker 6" unit that can really only be used with two hands. I absolutely love this thing.

The other is a 5" hardware store model that I only bought so I had something around that can use 5" discs in a pinch. It is harder to get 6" discs on short notice sometimes.

I use both sanders connected to my shop vac and cyclone. I use 3M Cubitron II discs in both. The problem is that the little sander, which looks like it is intended for one-handed operation, skips and jumps around all over the place when I try to use it with one hand. I can kind of use the 6" sander with one hand and it doesn't behave this way. The 6-incher is just too heavy to handle this way for very long. The 5" sander seems intended for one-hand use and doesn't really have any good places to put a second hand.

I tried removing the vacuum hose and the 5" sander seemed to be a lot more stable that way. It doesn't really have a great way to hold it with two hands. Should I just give it away and get another two-handed unit for 5" discs? Investigate some way to use it with reduced vacuum suction? Do other people experience this?

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 16:22 on May 18, 2023

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

I don't have that 5" sander, but mine is a pretty similar shape. If I want to use it with two hands, I grip it with one hand like I'd hold a drink, with my thumb-crotch in the front on the grippy part. The other hand goes on top to stabilize it.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

PBCrunch posted:

I tried removing the vacuum hose and the 5" sander seemed to be a lot more stable that way. It doesn't really have a great way to hold it with two hands. Should I just give it away and get another two-handed unit for 5" discs? Investigate some way to use it with reduced vacuum suction? Do other people experience this?

I've had them skip if I have them going at full speed and touch them down on a surface, but I've never had this issue if I start the sander while it's touching whatever I mean to sand. You could always turn down the speed, I guess, but they're very much designed for one handed use. Are you sanding incomplete surfaces or something?

The only thing I can really think of is that if you have a ton of suction it may be pulling the sander down so hard that the motor is causing it to skip rather than sand, but that seems crazy.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
All of the sanding I was doing with this 5" Bosch was 17"x48" shelves made from 3/4" Sande plywood. The sander was flat down on an already pretty-smooth surface. I start the sander on the surface. It isn't skipping around when I start the sander, its jumping and skipping as I'm feeding it across the surface at what I think is around an inch per second.

As I think about it, the issue is probably either too much suction pulling the sander down to the surface or it is the weight of the vacuum hose causing an imbalance that only a second hand can mitigate. I guess I'll have to try using the 5" sander with the vacuum hose connected but no suction and see how that behaves.

Amazon is tempting me with $20 off this 5" two-hander.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


What grits are you using? Coarse grits like 60 or 80 can make a sander bite pretty hard and jump around. The suction from a vacuum doesn't help and I do think that's probably most of the problem. I have that same sander and it's great but I mostly quit using it with a vacuum because the sander is so light vs. the weight of the vacuum hose. Fancy dust extractors have variable suction vacuums for exactly this situation. It's clunkier but 6" sanders sand waaaaaay faster than 5." It has like a third more surface area and a more powerful motor, so use it whenever possible imo. I just use the small one for edges and tiny stuff.

Also check that the screws that hold the sanding pad on are tight. If they get loose it will get real jumpy.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

blunt for century posted:

I work full time in a professional wood shop, but it's run by two folks who don't really "get" woodworking, tool maintenance, or shop safety. Currently my two biggest hurdles here are dust and air compressors. They'll just let these things run all day and night without use, just slowly leaking and refilling to 150psi. Apparently I'm also the only one here who drains the condensation from them (got a liter and a half from the 15gal DeWalt my first time draining it). I've left notes around the shop, notes on the door, brought it up in shop meetings and individually, but nothing seems to work.

Can y'all post or DM me horror stories about air compressor explosions so I can get this through their thick skulls?

This just sounds like ordinary laziness. If they don't care about shortened life, and you do the draining, seems fine? If they try to run them past when they're wearing out, that sounds dangerous

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I'm super lazy and forgetful about draining my compressor so I always appreciate when someone posts about it because then I do it right away.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

If obviously wrecking the tool isn't enough to motivate them a normal 150psi tank is unlikely to explode in a way that would. You could show them a bunch of BLEVE videos and tell them those were low-pressure air tanks?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

the failure mode here is that water rusts out the tank and then it develops a leak, right? I think that'd typically be a pinhole leak rather than an explosion, but I don't know that for a fact.

Is the water coming out clear, or rust brown?

If these are genuine safety issues, you do have the option of reporting your employers to OSHA, although I think they tend to take a long time to respond.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

it could *theoretically* blow out if it gave way just so, but if it does so due to rust it'll be doing it straight down, where the wall of the tank has been weakened, with a not tremendous amount of force. it'll scare the poo poo out of anyone standing nearby, and they'll probably start taking better care of their tanks afterwards. By contrast, say, the SCUBA tanks people strap directly on their backs are 3000+ psi

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 19:34 on May 18, 2023

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
We had a 2000 psi hydrogen tank rusted to the point of leaking. Mildly alarmed, we asked the vendor to address the issue. They came and looked, said eh it's just a small leak, we'll come back in a few days.

This tank is about 20 feet from my posting station too, I'm looking at it (well, the non leaky current one) now

Epitope fucked around with this message at 20:02 on May 18, 2023

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


Can any wood experts give me a clue on what wood this is? I got it from an offcuts bin. The one on the RIGHT. The shavings are also from the same board.

On the left is some walnut for comparison. They really are kinda similar but the mystery wood seems a bit lighter in color.



Unrelated to that, does anyone have some mallet plans or just a concept they like? I've seen round ones, square ones, arch shaped, and idk really what to think of them. I've seen a bunch of really nice ones in this thread and I've got some leftover cherry 1x3 id like to make an actually good one out of. I'm currently using one I made out of necessisity with the only wood I had available, cedar (lol) and a dowel rod. It works as well as you'd expect.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

PokeJoe posted:

Can any wood experts give me a clue on what wood this is? I got it from an offcuts bin. The one on the RIGHT. The shavings are also from the same board.

On the left is some walnut for comparison. They really are kinda similar but the mystery wood seems a bit lighter in color.

Impossible to say from a photo but some Walnut is quite light in color. It's usually not uniformly dark in my experience.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

show us a close up shot of the end-grain, that can help a lot
the smoother the endgrain surface, the better. A microscopic shot is more or less always diagnostic, but I don't expect you to do that.

Right now I'm at 110 options for north american hardwood, light brown color:
https://www.wood-database.com/wood-filter/?fwp_wood_type=hardwood&fwp_location=north-america&fwp_color=light-brown

But diving in, for example, perhaps it's red alder!
https://www.wood-database.com/red-alder/

here's what its endgrain looks like:


compare to, hmm, maybe it's Oregon Ash!
https://www.wood-database.com/oregon-ash/
Here's what its endgrain looks like:


etc. etc.

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 00:13 on May 19, 2023

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


Oo Oregon ash makes sense and looks close, I live in the PNW. I don't think it's walnut because this particular wood store sells the walnut offcuts seperate than the rest of them.

I do have a lovely microscope of sorts I use to look at rocks when hiking that clips on my phone

Regular end grain


60x end grain


60x side grain


E: zooms look like mostly texture to me, maybe I should sand or plane off the saw marks some to make it clearer?

PokeJoe fucked around with this message at 00:25 on May 19, 2023

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

PokeJoe posted:


Unrelated to that, does anyone have some mallet plans or just a concept they like? I've seen round ones, square ones, arch shaped, and idk really what to think of them. I've seen a bunch of really nice ones in this thread and I've got some leftover cherry 1x3 id like to make an actually good one out of. I'm currently using one I made out of necessisity with the only wood I had available, cedar (lol) and a dowel rod. It works as well as you'd expect.

No sense of the wood variety here, but Rex Krueger reverse-engineered an antique mallet pattern that looks fantastic. I'd have made it myself if I didn't have a nice antique one I got for like $5 already.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sq3K6dLaquk

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Wallet posted:

Impossible to say from a photo but some Walnut is quite light in color. It's usually not uniformly dark in my experience.

Walnut can be all kinds of colors if you don't steam it flat brown!



(I was just resawing some and think it's neat)

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

PokeJoe posted:

Oo Oregon ash makes sense and looks close, I live in the PNW. I don't think it's walnut because this particular wood store sells the walnut offcuts seperate than the rest of them.

I do have a lovely microscope of sorts I use to look at rocks when hiking that clips on my phone

Regular end grain


60x end grain


60x side grain


E: zooms look like mostly texture to me, maybe I should sand or plane off the saw marks some to make it clearer?

I picked Oregon Ash at random because Ash begins with A, not because I thought that might be it, so that'd be amazing if that was it!

60x is too magnified, 10x is better; and that looks to maybe not be smooth enough to see all the grain lines. I think it could be ash, but (just restricting to common commercial species) it could be maple, I'm feeling like I can eliminate red elm, could be sycamore, doubt it's chestnut, and if it's a species not super available commercially there's dozens more.

looking at the not 60x photo my eyes are telling me it's more ring-porous than diffuse-porous, but I can't tell if there's interlocking grain, and the color is so uniform I can't tell if there's different coloration between the major grain lines that's washed out or if it's really a uniform color.

This is what I'm looking for, diagnostically:
https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/hardwood-anatomy/
I am not an expert, I just like to solve mysteries like this

your 60x view does show some multiples on the pores, so it's one of the (most common) types that is mostly solitary but some multiple pores, either ring-porous or semi-ring-porous (probably the latter).

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 01:12 on May 19, 2023

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

PokeJoe posted:

Can any wood experts give me a clue on what wood this is? I got it from an offcuts bin. The one on the RIGHT. The shavings are also from the same board.

On the left is some walnut for comparison. They really are kinda similar but the mystery wood seems a bit lighter in color.



Unrelated to that, does anyone have some mallet plans or just a concept they like? I've seen round ones, square ones, arch shaped, and idk really what to think of them. I've seen a bunch of really nice ones in this thread and I've got some leftover cherry 1x3 id like to make an actually good one out of. I'm currently using one I made out of necessisity with the only wood I had available, cedar (lol) and a dowel rod. It works as well as you'd expect.

Is it soft? Can you dent it with a fingernail? Possibly butternut?

I made a square mallet when I started woodworking and have used that for a while, but recently turned a round one. I'm really liking the round one after a couple projects, I think I prefer it for when I'm tapping on a chisel. Not the best for other forms of knocking, but it's so nice to be able to pick it up and whack a chisel without worrying about its orientation. So to answer your question, make a few types of mallets and see what you like best.

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Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


PokeJoe posted:

Oo Oregon ash makes sense and looks close, I live in the PNW. I don't think it's walnut because this particular wood store sells the walnut offcuts seperate than the rest of them.

I do have a lovely microscope of sorts I use to look at rocks when hiking that clips on my phone

Regular end grain


60x end grain


60x side grain


E: zooms look like mostly texture to me, maybe I should sand or plane off the saw marks some to make it clearer?

The scientific way to get nice endgrain to look at is to slice it with a razor blade. A sharp block plain works well. If it looks like walnut but is lighter in color, my guess is butternut. Is it harder or softer than the walnut? Does it have a smell? Smell can be very diagnostic-if it smells like walnut it might just be some lighter walnut.

Looks a lot like Spanish cedar too, which has a distinct cigar box cedar smell (because that’s what cigar boxes are made of). I haven’t worked with butternut to know what it smells like (probably somewhat similar to walnut), but it’s softer than walnut, as is Spanish cedar, which should dent easily with your thumbnail. If it has no smell and is about as hard as walnut or a little softer, it could also be African Mahogany, which has a lighter/redder color than walnut and isn’t as ring porous but otherwise can look very similar. If it has an interlocked grain, that’s a point for African mahogany too. Can you wet both samples and take pictures? A lot of the times that will make color differences a lot more obvious-mahogany or Spanish cedar will look way more red where walnut will look more brown.

I don’t think it’s any kind of ash, but I’m not familiar with west coast species. Is this a retail lumberyard or like a commercial shop? Retail lumberyard might have some odd exotics or rare domestics, but a commercial place probably won’t.

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