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I don't have much else to add right now except to offer thanks to you both for the excellent responses. Life decided to kick me squarely in the teeth right after my first post on the matter and I haven't had a chance to follow up yet with any of the advice/tips/etc, but I didn't want to not say thank you for taking the time to offer thoughts & help. I'll hopefully post again at some point soon with more information!
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May 26, 2023 18:49
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Captain Log posted:Ah, gently caress. I don't love that one bit. I haven’t dug too deep but I like my tuxmats so far and they sure feel a lot less trumpy on the surface.
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May 26, 2023 20:18
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Having an ultra-lovely time buying online remotely. Avoid it if you can. Anyone out there familiar with Honda Elements (and/or at least that engine)? Looking at one and have video of it running but it’s been so long since I was around an engine that old I can’t tell if it sounds alright or not.
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May 27, 2023 04:55
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REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:Having an ultra-lovely time buying online remotely. Avoid it if you can. Don't buy a car sight unseen without an independent mechanic of your choice going over the car, they'll tell you if anything is wrong with it.
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May 27, 2023 05:56
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I'm having a horrible time scraping the RTV off the cylinder head/valve cover surface on an aluminum head. Is there a safe for the engine way to do this with the dremel, I'm mostly worried about crap getting inside the engine? Current plan is to cover the cams and pack out the inside of the head with clean rags and use a brass brush wheel or fine scotchbrite wheel in the dremel while holding the shopvac as close as possible to avoid getting any debris in the engine. Am I over/under thinking this or overlooking a better way?
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May 27, 2023 16:05
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Maybe it's just me, but having a Dremel around a sealing surface on an AL head sounds terrifying. Maybe try some plastic razor blades? Might be tedious and horrible, but it beats the hell out of having a gouge filled and re-machined. https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Razor-Scraper-Blades-Double/dp/B0046ZUNY8 Get some odorless mineral spirits involved too and that might make the goop a bit more eager to leave.
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May 27, 2023 16:08
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Seatbelt guides, some cars have them, others don't. I've never thought much about them until I got a Miata. By default the seatbelt sits right against my neck. I found if you move the belt into the upper portion of the guide, it doesn't rub my neck. But then it doesn't properly retract. What is the purpose of them then?
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May 27, 2023 16:59
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Proud owner of a new Crosstrek, really great experience at the suburu dealer. I ended up paying just under sticker with a whole boatload of add-ons plus great insurance and financing rates. Being newly divorced is amazing, yesterday I woke up and drove to the woods and walked and biked around. My dumb question is what do I do now? I still have paper tags and def want custom plates. Trying to decide between professional affiliation plates or something fun like FENKING. E: am I supposed to drive it in any special way during the first x miles? Leon Sumbitches fucked around with this message at 17:58 on May 27, 2023 |
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May 27, 2023 17:44
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So, weird question, but I have an Elantra N, just finished break in, about 1400 miles. I am still learning the car’s clutch/goofy rear end 1st gear assist, and stalled it twice consecutively. Basically stalled it, turned the car back on, accidentally dumped the clutch too fast, stalled it again while the car was turning over. My concern is that now the clutch engagement point on the pedal feels different, noticeably. The bite seems softer or more gradual. Is it possible I’ve done something to the clutch plate, or am I being a car hypochondriac?
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May 27, 2023 17:56
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phosdex posted:Seatbelt guides, some cars have them, others don't. I've never thought much about them until I got a Miata. By default the seatbelt sits right against my neck. I found if you move the belt into the upper portion of the guide, it doesn't rub my neck. But then it doesn't properly retract. What is the purpose of them then? Mine properly retract when they’re in the holder… maybe a bit slower than other cars but I see that as a bonus to protect the painted door uppers from errant belts.
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May 27, 2023 18:19
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Scionix posted:So, weird question, but I have an Elantra N, just finished break in, about 1400 miles. I am still learning the car’s clutch/goofy rear end 1st gear assist, and stalled it twice consecutively. Basically stalled it, turned the car back on, accidentally dumped the clutch too fast, stalled it again while the car was turning over. You could always bring it back to the dealer to have it checked under warranty. Clutches are wear items, but if it acts differently because of a stall then it’s not a wear-related problem, and should be covered. Shouldn’t cost you anything, though I wouldn’t mention your story when you bring it in. Just say it feels different now and you want it checked. You might just be overthinking it though.
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May 27, 2023 19:43
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Leon Sumbitches posted:Proud owner of a new Crosstrek, really great experience at the suburu dealer. I ended up paying just under sticker with a whole boatload of add-ons plus great insurance and financing rates. Being newly divorced is amazing, yesterday I woke up and drove to the woods and walked and biked around. Is it a turbo? Turbos require a break-in period of a few hundred miles where you don’t stress the engine. It’s generally good policy to do that for the first few hundred miles of any engine. I’d recommend long unbroken highway drives without a lot of stops.
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May 27, 2023 20:22
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Usually the engine break-in I've heard of is to try and vary the rpms and not run continuous rev for long periods. And not rev high.
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May 27, 2023 21:09
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Is it a turbo? Turbos require a break-in period of a few hundred miles where you don’t stress the engine. Do they? news to me.
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May 27, 2023 21:34
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cursedshitbox posted:Do they? news to me. The Fiesta ST owners manual recommends a break in period where you keep it out of high boost. I was wrong, however, that you should keep it at one speed. Here’s a section quote:BREAKING-IN
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May 27, 2023 23:25
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That reads like normal engine break in procedure, not a turbocharger break in procedure
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May 27, 2023 23:53
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Could be. I’ve really only heard about it for new turbo cars, but I’ve never bought a different Ford product, so it might just be boilerplate.
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May 27, 2023 23:55
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I couldn't find what looked like a relevant thread in BFC to ask, so I figured "hey, AI buys lots of cars, I'll ask them" My second to last car payment was the 18th, and I just received a letter from Ally yesterday that I need to pay the remainder of the balance by the 28th. Uh, do I? It won't bankrupt me or anything, but I'm not clear on why I wouldn't just pay it on June 18th, like every other payment on the loan. Is this a common thing?
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May 28, 2023 00:42
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Is it a turbo? Turbos require a break-in period of a few hundred miles where you don’t stress the engine. It’s generally good policy to do that for the first few hundred miles of any engine. I’d recommend long unbroken highway drives without a lot of stops. Crosstrek is not a turbo sadly. Unless you put an FA24 from a wrecked ascent or wrx in it (and if you are please post a thread about it). Monterey Subaru told me “nah no special break in” when I got my Crosstrek. Enjoy your new car, if you need to carry bikes the Kuat NV will fit on it and not block the hatch when flipped up.
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May 28, 2023 01:59
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Could be. I’ve really only heard about it for new turbo cars, but I’ve never bought a different Ford product, so it might just be boilerplate. My FIAT 124 had no recommended break-in at all. Boost was limited by the ECU for the first 1000 km, though, I assume, because at almost exactly 621 miles on the odometer the performance suddenly improved markedly.
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May 28, 2023 02:14
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Slugworth posted:I couldn't find what looked like a relevant thread in BFC to ask, so I figured "hey, AI buys lots of cars, I'll ask them" Not a thing I’ve run into. You could call Ally about it.
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May 28, 2023 02:19
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Deteriorata posted:My FIAT 124 had no recommended break-in at all. Boost was limited by the ECU for the first 1000 km, though, I assume, because at almost exactly 621 miles on the odometer the performance suddenly improved markedly. That's really clever, though I think the manual should probably mention it. "Hey we've nerfed your new car electronically for the first 1000 km, it will last longer this way, it's all good".
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May 28, 2023 07:01
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Hi guys, dumb @ cars girl here. I blew a tire the other day when I had a million things to do by a night deadline and in a moment of ❕ I followed my friend's advice and just got the one tire replaced at the nearest used tire shop so I could keep trucking along for the day. I know people usually try to do it in pairs, though. Should I go ahead and try and get both replaced ASAP, or are there any risk-mitigating actions I should take otherwise?
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May 28, 2023 13:22
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Replacing both is probably a good idea but not a huge issue, just drive carefully since you might have a different amount of traction on that side.
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May 28, 2023 14:17
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Doc Fission posted:Hi guys, dumb @ cars girl here. I blew a tire the other day when I had a million things to do by a night deadline and in a moment of ❕ I followed my friend's advice and just got the one tire replaced at the nearest used tire shop so I could keep trucking along for the day. I know people usually try to do it in pairs, though. Should I go ahead and try and get both replaced ASAP, or are there any risk-mitigating actions I should take otherwise? What vehicle is it and was it a front or rear tire? The concern people have is that a new tire will have a slightly larger diameter which means the axle will spin slightly slower than on the other side of the car with a smaller diameter worn tire. This means the differential in between is constantly allowing a little bit of slip, which can cause some issues in the long run. Best practice would be to replace every tire at the same time but that's not always financially reasonable. If you have a front wheel drive car and that tire is on the back I kinda wouldn't worry about it so long as your other tire on the opposite side isn't so worn that it's going to offer much different traction under emergency braking etc. Nobody should be expected to just know this stuff, everyone had to learn this from someone else at some point, so don't feel bad for not being born with this knowledge or whatever.
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May 28, 2023 17:03
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In addition to sharing what vehicle this is for, it wouldn’t hurt to find out what your tread depth is on the other tires, that and their age. If this is some FWD or RWD car and the tires are relatively new, you’re probably OK. You should have the new tire on the rear axle though. If the tires are older or you drive something with AWD, it would be wise to get a second opinion. Discount Tire is generally a good place to work with, and I think if you explained the situation, they’d be happy to give you their take.
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May 28, 2023 20:11
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Doc Fission posted:Hi guys, dumb @ cars girl here. I blew a tire the other day when I had a million things to do by a night deadline and in a moment of ❕ I followed my friend's advice and just got the one tire replaced at the nearest used tire shop so I could keep trucking along for the day. I know people usually try to do it in pairs, though. Should I go ahead and try and get both replaced ASAP, or are there any risk-mitigating actions I should take otherwise? What color is the exterior of the car?
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May 28, 2023 20:50
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Slugworth posted:I couldn't find what looked like a relevant thread in BFC to ask, so I figured "hey, AI buys lots of cars, I'll ask them" for historical reasons I don't know about, the car buying thread you were probably hoping to find is located in A/T: Ask/Tell › AI meets BFC: Car Buying Thread: No Rentals and No Salvage Titles https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1
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May 28, 2023 21:25
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Any reason why I shouldn't replace my calipers? Every part of it is looking rustier than I expected- and I get Krown rustproofing done every year. I chalk it up to degraded build quality in current gen vehicles. Looks even rustier than my old '07 Corolla. There are currently no issues with the existing braking abilities I just wanted to swap them out BEFORE they decide to seize up on me. melon cat fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Feb 21, 2024 |
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May 29, 2023 02:38
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melon cat posted:Any reason why I shouldn't replace my 2018 Prius V's calipers? That's surface rust and it's not that bad, I don't think you need to replace those at all. Where they would seize up is likely the slide pins so maybe replace those if they're rusty or pitted but they're probably fine also IMO. Probably worth taking them out and reapplying appropriate grease. Would rustproofing companies even do anything to a caliper? I can't imagine they would but I live on the west coast. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 03:41 on May 29, 2023 |
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May 29, 2023 03:38
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They wouldn't. You don't spray rust proofing anywhere near the calipers because if you miss (and it's a big spray pattern, you're going to) you essentially grease the brake rotors and then your shop gets sued.
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May 29, 2023 05:59
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Those calipers look fine, as long as they're moving smoothly I wouldn't replace them.
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May 29, 2023 08:28
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if op wants to put enameled brembos on his prius “for durability reasons” then who are we to be like “that’s unnecessary”? (just get your brake components replaced normally during routine service as they fail/are needed, OP)
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May 29, 2023 10:41
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melon cat posted:Any reason why I shouldn't replace my 2018 Prius V's calipers? That looks fine. LAst time I went to Krown, they uhhh certainly rustproofed my car alright. I think they need to train the guy whose job it is to remove the excess a little bit better though. Had to spray the poo poo out of my brakes after and also the brake pedal. Grease the caliper slides, make sure they're moving good. I Prefer Sil-glide, but I can't easily find it anymore. Luckily I have a big tube of that poo poo and am not doing brake jobs every year like I was with my Mazda. The permatex silicone stuff you can find at Canadian Tire is good though.
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May 29, 2023 12:03
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It's a 2008 Lexus ES 350 and it was a front tire  TY for the reassurance about not knowing this stuff too  I've always had someone helping me with this stuff but this is weirdly my first time as a single car owner so I appreciate it!!!nitsuga posted:In addition to sharing what vehicle this is for, it wouldn’t hurt to find out what your tread depth is on the other tires, that and their age. If this is some FWD or RWD car and the tires are relatively new, you’re probably OK. You should have the new tire on the rear axle though. I'll definitely pop by a Discount Tire this week. Thank you very much! Inner Light posted:What color is the exterior of the car? It's burgundy. It's a total dad car
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May 29, 2023 12:10
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Did you get a used tire put on and does it match your other tires?
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May 29, 2023 17:37
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Used, yes And how so?
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May 29, 2023 18:40
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Match in terms of tread depth, size, tread aggressiveness. If you had summer tires, but this was an all-season tire it would perform differently. Likewise if it were a wider tire it would also perform differently. If it’s roughly the same tread depth, same size, and same style of tire, I’d say keep the cash in your pocket until you get a new set of four.
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May 29, 2023 18:55
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Yeah the concerns here are threefold: 1. Safety. A tire that's a different radius (due to being more or less worn than the others), different grip, etc. may cause an accident, or cause an accident to be worse, due to changing the way your car handles and performs when under hard cornering and/or braking. 2. Safety. If one of your tires popped, are the other three on the edge of death too? How worn are they? You should not be driving on bald tires, and three bald tires + 1 not bald tire isn't really better than 4 bald tires 3. Wear & tear on your car. Driving with one tire slightly bigger or smaller than the others puts wear on the differential or other components. I know money can be really tight for folks, but tires are the most important safety feature of your car. More than the brakes, because your maximum braking potential is limited by the grip of your tires, and also because your tires hanging on in a hard cornering situation while you try to avoid a collision is more important than having an extra five feet of stopping distance in straight line braking. Also brakes are very foolproof and will keep functioning even when badly neglected, at least partially, whereas a cracked, bald, or otherwise defective tire can give out suddenly and catastrophically. If you can't afford 4 new tires, consider 4 matching used tires. If you cant afford 4 matching used tires, put 2 matching new or used tires on your front wheels. If you can't afford 2 matching used or new tires on your front wheels, you can't afford to drive.
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May 29, 2023 21:19
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If you can possibly avoid it do not buy used tires
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May 29, 2023 21:55
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