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The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?
Some time ago I got sick and ever since I've been more sensitive to certain allergens and whatnot. Today I noticed while planning some red oak that it that the sawdust was really aggravating me much more than usual so it's time to get some recommendations on masks. I've used PAPR masks in the past and generally really liked them but I'm looking at both PAPR and standard masks situationally. All I have in the shop currently are cheap 3M disposables that I use for sanding or particularly bad yard work.

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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

You definitely don't want to breathe sawdust, regardless of allergies. But also, if you've developed a sensitivity, is it contact dermatitis or just allergic reaction? How bad is the allergic reaction?

An M95 or better mask is usually adequate, but only if it fits properly. I have a beard and a big nose and those both make fitment harder for me, so I had to try several different styles of mask and eventually settled on a velcro cloth one that takes paper filter inserts that works well for me.

Nothing is as good as a respirator, though. I have a quality respirator from 3m that I use for chemical work, and it's reasonably comfortable so I could use it for sanding if I needed to.

If it's specifically red oak that's bothering you, though, you might consider not working with that species any more. Allergies can get worse with repeated contact. In particular if you're getting a rash or hives, stop using that wood species entirely.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Seconding the respirator, though N95 is the general recommendation for filter type. The 3M half-mask respirator with disposable cartridge filters is popular for a reason.

Also seconding avoiding the specific problem species if that's an option.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

The junk collector posted:

Some time ago I got sick and ever since I've been more sensitive to certain allergens and whatnot. Today I noticed while planning some red oak that it that the sawdust was really aggravating me much more than usual so it's time to get some recommendations on masks. I've used PAPR masks in the past and generally really liked them but I'm looking at both PAPR and standard masks situationally. All I have in the shop currently are cheap 3M disposables that I use for sanding or particularly bad yard work.

PAPR is a little overkill, but it’s the filters you want. The 3M half-mask respirator with P100s is how I spend my days in the shop until I get a vac setup.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


The junk collector posted:

Some time ago I got sick and ever since I've been more sensitive to certain allergens and whatnot. Today I noticed while planning some red oak that it that the sawdust was really aggravating me much more than usual so it's time to get some recommendations on masks. I've used PAPR masks in the past and generally really liked them but I'm looking at both PAPR and standard masks situationally. All I have in the shop currently are cheap 3M disposables that I use for sanding or particularly bad yard work.
I like this thing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013SIIBFQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wouldn't buy PPE from Amazon if you can help it-I think I got it straight from the manufacturer-but its much less bulky and heavy than a 3M respirator with cartridges. The little cartridge inserts are replaceable, but I haven't had to replace mine yet. P100 is sufficient for wood dust, but I think they do make a finer one. It's still kinda clunky with safety glasses + earmuffs but everything is, and it definitely breathes better than a fabric 3m N95, even the ones with the exhalation vent. I have noticeably less neck fatigue wearing it than my 3M half face 3M respirator with organic vapor cartridges I wear for finishing.



HolHorsejob posted:

Crafty goons, has anyone made a gaming table? I'm considering making one. Preliminary specs:

- 4 - 6 people

- Cards, board games, and possibly tabletop RPGs

- Not necessarily multi-use (doesn't need to serve as a workbench, and I definitely don't want it to be a table people eat off of)

A friend of mine suggested a round tabletop. What kinda size would I be looking at? How much space do six people need?

I usually like nice hardwood or hardwood plywood tabletops, but I'm not married to any particular implementation, and this won't need to bear any significant load. I think it would just need to be relatively dent resistant and flat, and would be either finished or painted. Strongly leaning towards something that can be easily stowed away. Possible tabletop construction types off the top of my head:

1. Paneled hardwood - pricey, heavy. Would look nice and could be repurposed, given away, sold, whatever

2. Mostly-hollow - Maybe 1/4" baltic birch face on a simple 1x1 webbing?

3. Cedar dog ear panel - Relatively cheap and lightweight?


What's your advice on something like this?
A gaming table isn't much different from a dining table except that you may want to make it a touch bigger to allow extra space for the game and stuff. This is a not bad estimator:
https://thesavvyheart.com/seating-capacity-guide-round-dining-roomtables/

Round is good IMO because everyone can see everyone which isn't always the case with a square or especially rectangular table and it's a bit easier to squeeze in extra people. 48-60" diameter is probably the range you're looking at-I'd see what fits in your space. 60" gives more space, but it can also be a stretch to reach the center from a chair-most people's reach from seated is about 24." You don't need to reach the center if you're eating, but you do for games.

I think plywood with some supports underneath would be fine-maybe make it 2 halves that bolt together or use loose-pin hinges if it's bigger than 48". Paint or varnish the plywood or put green felt on top with spray adhesive. I don't know if you need a base or if this is going to sit on top of an existing table or what. You could definitely use a plain card table as a base and just set the round table top on it.

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?
Thanks for the recommendations, I'll pick up a half mask respirator and give it a shot. Kaiser Schnitzel's lighter one looks like it could be a winner if I can find one. I don't buy PPE from amazon either. Too many bad experiences with other products. The only reason I was thinking about PAPR is because the shop can get to be over 100 on some summer days and the airflow is really nice but I can also just find a cooler hobby on those days too or stick to my hand tools.

I don't think it's the red oak specifically more that this is the first time in a while I've had to get into the shop and do this much cutting in one go. I was also having some issues with the dust collector as well so everything was a bit aggravated. I've gotten more sensitive to a lot of particulates but thankfully nothing is contact. Even so, I want to nip this in the bud and not give it a chance to get any worse. A friend of mine actually had to give up wood working because he developed allergies from repeated exposure and I refuse to share that fate.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I was already thinking about doing a PPE post today so I'll add this:

Whatever you decide for masks, if you're anything like me, pick up some disposable shop dust masks as well, so that if you (like me) misplace your good one, there's always another one within reach.

But yeah I was doing some dick-around turning today and had a catch and a splinter bounced right off of my safety glasses. Wear your ppe.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

P100 is sufficient for wood dust, but I think they do make a finer one.

P100 is for asbestos work. It’s as good as you’re going to get before going to supplied air. :viggo:

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?

CommonShore posted:

I was already thinking about doing a PPE post today so I'll add this:

Whatever you decide for masks, if you're anything like me, pick up some disposable shop dust masks as well, so that if you (like me) misplace your good one, there's always another one within reach.

But yeah I was doing some dick-around turning today and had a catch and a splinter bounced right off of my safety glasses. Wear your ppe.

I have a ton of these and use them for sanding (or occasional yard work). They just aren't great for working all day so it's time to step up my PPE game. I always wear my safety glasses or face shield. For some truly gnarly turning I've borrowed motorcycle helmets.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


The junk collector posted:

I have a ton of these and use them for sanding (or occasional yard work). They just aren't great for working all day so it's time to step up my PPE game. I always wear my safety glasses or face shield. For some truly gnarly turning I've borrowed motorcycle helmets.

Yeah. The disposable ones are more for like "ah poo poo where did I put that thing I just need to make a few quick cuts".

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

Aw, a fish tank.


Full of "water"!

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



HolHorsejob posted:

Crafty goons, has anyone made a gaming table? I'm considering making one. Preliminary specs:

- 4 - 6 people

- Cards, board games, and possibly tabletop RPGs

- Not necessarily multi-use (doesn't need to serve as a workbench, and I definitely don't want it to be a table people eat off of)

A friend of mine suggested a round tabletop. What kinda size would I be looking at? How much space do six people need?

I usually like nice hardwood or hardwood plywood tabletops, but I'm not married to any particular implementation, and this won't need to bear any significant load. I think it would just need to be relatively dent resistant and flat, and would be either finished or painted. Strongly leaning towards something that can be easily stowed away. Possible tabletop construction types off the top of my head:

1. Paneled hardwood - pricey, heavy. Would look nice and could be repurposed, given away, sold, whatever

2. Mostly-hollow - Maybe 1/4" baltic birch face on a simple 1x1 webbing?

3. Cedar dog ear panel - Relatively cheap and lightweight?


What's your advice on something like this?

Didn't someone in this thread do that a few years back? I may be misremembering. It happens.

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009
I have a 1/4 folding card table that’s octagonal and felt topped, it just sits on top of the dining table. Works well - protects the table, gives the evening a gaming feel and it’s easy to store.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


CommonShore posted:

But yeah I was doing some dick-around turning today
That made me wince,and I'm a cis woman.

Elysium
Aug 21, 2003
It is by will alone I set my mind in motion.
I wouldn’t make a round gaming table unless you have a specific space that just works for round.

Games have mostly square and rectangular components. And while it sounds nice that the reach is the same everywhere across a round table, I think you’ll find that having a long dimension will work out better for a lot of games.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

the correct shape, obviously, is a hexagon

In all seriousness, I have a big round oak table we use for both dining and gaming and it works fine, but we often set up a square folding card table to the side to hold extra stuff for the larger or more complicated games. If your round table is sufficiently big, it can handle square or rectangle games. But it also makes it more awkward to deal with in a room, because it can't really be tucked into a corner.

Also it's not hard to make a table that will support a good amount of weight, so discounting weight support as a factor is not worth much. Make a list of the features you want, and then design a top, skirts, and legs, and optionally stretchers. Assembling your top out of sheet materials will be far easier than edge-gluing boards or planks, but both are an option.

Baltic birch on a webbing is fine, the webbing doesn't need to be all that much, just a couple two three or four bits under the top will keep it nice and stiff. Solid wood is fine too. You could make it folding, or make it easy to remove the legs for storage. You can cover the top with felt, or a soft mat material, wet or dry erase surface, or just wood with a nice finish. There's every option under the sun really!

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Round tables always feel very inefficient to me for things like gaming. A 5ft diameter round table, practically speaking, takes up just about as much storage space as a 5'x5' table but has less surface area and feels more crowded, especially if things like drinks or snacks are also on the table.

Blindeye
Sep 22, 2006

I can't believe I kissed you!
So I have a problem. My uncle rescued a few of these 1940s vintage school chairs and I was gifted one.

...somehow this one got water pooled into the seat and the original finish peeled off in the low point. I don't want to refinish the whole thing but do you all have suggestions for how to proceed? Should I sand and add a neutral finish? I was debating something simple like tung or linseed oil after sanding just the depressed part of the seat, or maybe a satin poly, but I just don't know.

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


Yeah sand and oil it imo. If it's from the 40s the finish is probably oil and shellac or something like that. Can you take it apart?

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
Thanks for the insight and calculators and whatnot. I did seriously consider a hexagon. Round table was suggested to me because as long as there's enough space, everyone can space evenly around it, and it's a natural fit for a lazy susan in the center. The only thing I'm concerned about is construction would require a little more thought and get a little trickier.

Space is flexible in my house, we just moved in and neither of us has anywhere near enough furniture to fill out the space. This would probably replace the dining table (we have a small dining room we don't use), and I'd have plenty of place to stow it. I'm planning on either a folding base or a removable top, and I have plenty of space for a broken-down tabletop.

Yeah I think sheet goods will be the way to go for the tabletop. My first thought is a 5x5 sheet of 1/4" BB with a bit of webbing and a skirt, though I'm not sure how I'd make a round skirt. I wonder how a round tabletop on a hexagonal skirt would look. My other thought was a 1/4" BB top surface, that honeycomb poo poo in cheap tables, and a thinner layer for the bottom.

The legs I'm drawing a total blank on, but from a quick googling, this particular style is calling to me. It looks compact enough that I don't think I'd need to make them fold.

Blindeye
Sep 22, 2006

I can't believe I kissed you!

PokeJoe posted:

Yeah sand and oil it imo. If it's from the 40s the finish is probably oil and shellac or something like that. Can you take it apart?

Sadly no, it's definitely put together permanently with joinery and not hardware. I'll just have to tape around the back/armrests and sand to competent material before working in linseed oil.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

PokeJoe posted:

Yeah sand and oil it imo. If it's from the 40s the finish is probably oil and shellac or something like that. Can you take it apart?

I'm going to bet the finish is nitrocellulose lacquer.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Stultus Maximus posted:

I'm going to bet the finish is nitrocellulose lacquer.
Yeah it almost certainly is NC lacquer. The great thing about lacquer is it’s very easy to repair. Clean it well by wiping it down with naphtha, rotating the rag frequently so you are removing whatever dirt/wax is on it and not just moving it around. Scuff sand the area lightly with some 320 sandpaper. Get a rattle can of lacquer and lightly mist a few coats a few coats on till it looks right. Scuff sand after the first coat and as needed after that if there are any nibs. I’d rub the whole thing down with 0000 steel wool after that and wax it all to even out the sheen and knock down any overspray.

There’s a very good chance there will be some silicone contamination from furniture polish which can cause fish-eye in the lacquer. If you clean it thoroughly and spray the first few coats very lightly it shouldn’t be a problem, but if you want extra insurance a thin coat of shellac like zinsser seal coat will help prevent it too.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Also, having sat in a lot of those style chairs, they benefit from a cushion and there are cushions sold with little ties on the back that tie to the slats, can go in the laundry, are beloved by cats, and ease the behinds of us older folks. So that's another option if you just don't want to bother refinishing.

Bann
Jan 14, 2019

HolHorsejob posted:

Crafty goons, has anyone made a gaming table? I'm considering making one. Preliminary specs:

- 4 - 6 people

- Cards, board games, and possibly tabletop RPGs

- Not necessarily multi-use (doesn't need to serve as a workbench, and I definitely don't want it to be a table people eat off of)

A friend of mine suggested a round tabletop. What kinda size would I be looking at? How much space do six people need?

I usually like nice hardwood or hardwood plywood tabletops, but I'm not married to any particular implementation, and this won't need to bear any significant load. I think it would just need to be relatively dent resistant and flat, and would be either finished or painted. Strongly leaning towards something that can be easily stowed away. Possible tabletop construction types off the top of my head:

1. Paneled hardwood - pricey, heavy. Would look nice and could be repurposed, given away, sold, whatever

2. Mostly-hollow - Maybe 1/4" baltic birch face on a simple 1x1 webbing?

3. Cedar dog ear panel - Relatively cheap and lightweight?


What's your advice on something like this?

I was chatting with a fellow goon on this topic a few months back on Discord - they were kind enough to share a similar (but more elaborate) table for DnD that they had built:
https://imgur.com/gallery/hTbw4

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

Leperflesh posted:

Also, having sat in a lot of those style chairs, they benefit from a cushion and there are cushions sold with little ties on the back that tie to the slats, can go in the laundry, are beloved by cats, and ease the behinds of us older folks. So that's another option if you just don't want to bother refinishing.

This is the way.

Staryberry
Oct 16, 2009
Thanks for the advice on finishing my cherry bow. I went with the Danish oil and the whole process was really easy. I’m pleased with the end results. I’m sort of curious to try adding shellac to one of these, but I got scared about messing it up and I like the satin finish.

I didn’t get the measurements quite right and a little bit of metal from the barrette shows though, but I’m still happy with the results. I’m going to give it to my mom as a belated Mother’s Day gift.



Now I’m starting to think about my next project. Does anyone have advice about what to look for/avoid in buying a drill press, especially if I decide to buy one used?

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Older is better

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
The old delta benchtop drill presses are generally cheap and available on FB market place. They are easy to work with, I had replaced the switch and took a 2 minutes. Adjusting the table is kind of annoying because mine doesn’t have a crank and rotates freely so aligning the table is kind annoying. I think I have invested a whole $40 on it.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

yeah there's not really a lot of exciting new features that have been added to drill presses in the last 80 years, just get the biggest one you can fit that's at least 90% made out of actual steel (which probably means an antique). I don't tend to see a lot with anything actually wrong with them compared to other shop tools, but you should check that it's concentric and someone didn't do something hosed up to the chuck just in case. Only other part likely to get chewed up in normal use is the pulley belt, which is quick and cheap to fix. My current one's older than me and came with what appeared to be most of a squirrel wrapped around the spindle, pulled that out and it works great.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Do check old-rear end drill presses for wiring/re-wiring fuckery, though.

One feature of many new drill presses is that the stop button is more obvious/easy to punch. I like that. But a lot of new ones have weird arbors or are less well designed for parts replaceability or are lighter and thus more wobbly etc. so I agree with the old iron approach as a rule of thumb.

e. if your budget is like $1500 there's some nice new stuff though from good manufacturers, and you can get stuff like lasers
e.g.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-18-in-Floor-Standing-Drill-Press-with-Worklight-Laser-and-16-Speeds-18-900L/203293723

e. anyone tried this grizzly? https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-14-floor-drill-press-with-laser-and-dro/g0794
$675 is pretty good for a floor stander with laser and DRO. That freight charge might push it to not that good.

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Jun 1, 2023

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Leperflesh posted:

Also, having sat in a lot of those style chairs, they benefit from a cushion and there are cushions sold with little ties on the back that tie to the slats, can go in the laundry, are beloved by cats, and ease the behinds of us older folks. So that's another option if you just don't want to bother refinishing.
Easy to find at the Vermont Country Store, although in somewhat old-lady-ish colors and prints.

yoohoo
Nov 15, 2004
A little disrespect and rudeness can elevate a meaningless interaction to a battle of wills and add drama to an otherwise dull day
For those of you with small houses or no garage, what do you do for a workspace? I've got a fairly small house, no garage, a basement I can't use for a shop, and a tiny shed, but I'm desperately wanting to build more and take my woodworking up to the next level. I'm tired of lugging everything in and out of my basement and shed anytime I want to build something, and I hate not having large flat areas to set everything. Even the smallest project involves like a drat hour of setting up and tearing down, and I'd like to taking on larger projects. Summer where I am is generally pretty dry, so I'm toying with the idea of setting up a semi-permanent canopy in my backyard and then draping a tarp over everything at night. I've also considered buying a ~12x15 shed and turning that into a workspace, or building something simple with 4x4s and plywood. I'm renting so I can't do anything permanent. I'm also looking at some shared makerspaces, or renting a studio or some kind of space in a warehouse, but I don't love the idea of spending ~$250+ a month on what is for the time being a hobby.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

yoohoo posted:

For those of you with small houses or no garage, what do you do for a workspace? I've got a fairly small house, no garage, a basement I can't use for a shop, and a tiny shed, but I'm desperately wanting to build more and take my woodworking up to the next level. I'm tired of lugging everything in and out of my basement and shed anytime I want to build something, and I hate not having large flat areas to set everything. Even the smallest project involves like a drat hour of setting up and tearing down, and I'd like to taking on larger projects. Summer where I am is generally pretty dry, so I'm toying with the idea of setting up a semi-permanent canopy in my backyard and then draping a tarp over everything at night. I've also considered buying a ~12x15 shed and turning that into a workspace, or building something simple with 4x4s and plywood. I'm renting so I can't do anything permanent. I'm also looking at some shared makerspaces, or renting a studio or some kind of space in a warehouse, but I don't love the idea of spending ~$250+ a month on what is for the time being a hobby.

12x15 is about the amount of basement I have available to me so if that's realistic for you to buy, that should be sufficient as long as you aren't planning to have a cabinet saw or something in there.

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


i work outside on a balcony and in what amounts to a large closet :shrug:

make an outdoor workbench / sawbench and just leave it out there. then you can do rough and large work with less setup, just gotta bring wood and some tools

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




yoohoo posted:

I hate not having large flat areas to set everything.

I've never used one, but a Bora Centipede Workbench might work for you.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

yoohoo posted:

For those of you with small houses or no garage, what do you do for a workspace? I've got a fairly small house, no garage, a basement I can't use for a shop, and a tiny shed, but I'm desperately wanting to build more and take my woodworking up to the next level. I'm tired of lugging everything in and out of my basement and shed anytime I want to build something, and I hate not having large flat areas to set everything. Even the smallest project involves like a drat hour of setting up and tearing down, and I'd like to taking on larger projects. Summer where I am is generally pretty dry, so I'm toying with the idea of setting up a semi-permanent canopy in my backyard and then draping a tarp over everything at night. I've also considered buying a ~12x15 shed and turning that into a workspace, or building something simple with 4x4s and plywood. I'm renting so I can't do anything permanent. I'm also looking at some shared makerspaces, or renting a studio or some kind of space in a warehouse, but I don't love the idea of spending ~$250+ a month on what is for the time being a hobby.

Tiny 1br apartment with a big entrance room, so it's all hand tools. I built a workbench using smaller parts of the workbench to make the bigger ones, and everything lives under/in/over/around the workbench. The lumber shelf is above the bookshelf near the ceiling.

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

I use my shed and my yard. I don’t love having an outdoor table saw but it gets the job done

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
I do all my work in an area of about 5-6 m2, so small bedroom or larger room corner. Big enough to get a decent workbench in, a few saw benches to take things outside for sanding etc. stuff that produces a lot of dust. Not the most convenient setup, and cabinet saws, jointers etc. are out of the question, but it gets things done.

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Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
For a while my shop was in the utility corner of a basement, 5' x 9' I managed to fit my woodworking bench, a cabinet saw (extension tables removed and fence rails cut down) and another auxiliary bench. There was some spillover of storage into other parts of the basement but all the work was done in that small area. I mostly made veneered boxes for those years. I'd cut down baltic birch outside and cut it to size and do the joinery on the tablesaw, the rest of the work was hand work.

Here it is, the auxiliary bench is in the foreground. I had to remove the end vice from my bench to get it to fit. One of the most annoying things was there was no room to the left of the front vice on my bench so whenever I was handplaning I would smash the plane into the wall, I'm surprised I didn't put a hole in the drywall.

Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Jun 2, 2023

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