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Bilirubin
Feb 16, 2014

The sanctioned action is to CHUG


I'm about to do a 6-7k km road trip. I have been using synthetic oil for the past forever, and have only put 2.5k on the most recent change. Am I gtg for this trip and change it when I get back since this stuff works forever or should I change it up now anyway? I am already planning to have the car inspected before we leave (mostly to ensure enough brake pad is remaining)

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Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



There’s literally no downside and very small cost involved to doing oil changes. It you’re asking, you should.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Bilirubin posted:

I'm about to do a 6-7k km road trip. I have been using synthetic oil for the past forever, and have only put 2.5k on the most recent change. Am I gtg for this trip and change it when I get back since this stuff works forever or should I change it up now anyway? I am already planning to have the car inspected before we leave (mostly to ensure enough brake pad is remaining)

What is the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval?

Subtract whatever amount of km you have now from that. How far over will you be if you drive your expected number of km?

If its only a few hundred then just get it done when you get back.

Also, does the car burn oil? How much? Never hurts to have a spare litre or two of the appropriate oil in the trunk.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Bilirubin posted:

I'm about to do a 6-7k km road trip. I have been using synthetic oil for the past forever, and have only put 2.5k on the most recent change. Am I gtg for this trip and change it when I get back since this stuff works forever or should I change it up now anyway? I am already planning to have the car inspected before we leave (mostly to ensure enough brake pad is remaining)

Most synthetic oils will handle that just fine. 10k km between changes is not a problem for them.

Or you can change it before you go It's not expensive.

You can also get the oil changed mid-trip if you want to. You're allowed.

Do whatever. It will be fine.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I was always told that cold starting an engine is where quite a lot of the internal wear is done, as the oil isn't as present on the friction surfaces as you would find during normal operation. I never really consider road trips to be particularly damaging to vehicles.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Just change it on the road when its due.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

cursedshitbox posted:

Just change it on the road when its due.

While an option I feel your perspective is... skewed somehow.

Highway miles are by far the easiest miles a car ever sees. The manual in your glovebox will have oil change intervals. There will be a "normal use" of 7.5 to 10k and a "hard use" of 3-5k miles. Hard use is usually it's really hot (100+) or I'm beating the hell out of it (tracking it) or it's dusty or I'm towing or really really short trips (to short to warm up).

If you have an oil life % thing on the dash they take all that into consideration. They are surprisingly good at their estimates.

Without more details I'd make sure it's full, do your trip, and change when you get back.

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
been to discount tire twice in a month for two very different cars. is there a reason they fill tires up to the max pressure on the side of the tire and not the recommended level on the door?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Because the tire monkey is airing it up on the mounting machine.

(full disclosure: I was once a tire monkey)

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:

Sir Tonk posted:

been to discount tire twice in a month for two very different cars. is there a reason they fill tires up to the max pressure on the side of the tire and not the recommended level on the door?

Laziness. My Costco will always fill to the vehicle specification.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:

The discount tire by me fills to vehicle spec

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
project thread question:

Looking to restart my old project thread from a few years ago now that I've found another helper. Before I go ahead and post it, I wanted to take the AI temperature since I haven't been posting here for a while now to see if it's something y'all would find interesting.

I'll be picking up this archived thread where it left off:
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3712555

and adding the stuff I've found since then. The current crop is the Volvo, a '78 Grand Marquis, and a 2012 CTS wagon. The most recent acquisition is an '87 Bronco II that I had the pleasure of driving from DC to Houston after picking it up a week ago, so there's a somewhat interesting story to go along with it. Although I guess the question of whether I flipped or not it is already answered since I would probably be dead.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Sir Tonk posted:

project thread question:

Looking to restart my old project thread from a few years ago now that I've found another helper. Before I go ahead and post it, I wanted to take the AI temperature since I haven't been posting here for a while now to see if it's something y'all would find interesting.

I'll be picking up this archived thread where it left off:
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3712555

and adding the stuff I've found since then. The current crop is the Volvo, a '78 Grand Marquis, and a 2012 CTS wagon. The most recent acquisition is an '87 Bronco II that I had the pleasure of driving from DC to Houston after picking it up a week ago, so there's a somewhat interesting story to go along with it. Although I guess the question of whether I flipped or not it is already answered since I would probably be dead.

:justpost:

Start with this image:

And compare and contrast your predictions with what actually happened.

REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS
Oct 3, 2003

What do you think it means, bitch?
Yeah mine always checks the door jamb and even asks beyond that.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
I have a dumb question, brought about by a dumb predicament by a dumb owner. Turns out in 2019 I only replaced the fronts not all 4 on my 2016 Prius V and yesterday I took a good look at the rears and :stare: XX15 date code and lots of cracking. They're the original tires from the factory. Car lives outside in the full socal sun. It only has 44,600 miles on it.

The fronts are 205/60R16 92V FALKEN ZIEX ZE950 and they suck. Low traction, and squirrely in the rain. I guess it could be the old rear end rears but they have plenty of tread on them still. Never really had this problem with $RandomPassengerCarTire before so I'm a little stumped. What should I replace these with? TireRack has so many options. If the answer is "your car is what sucks" I'll put whatever Just Tires has in my size on it tomorrow.

No snow rating required. I'll chain up if I decide to buy an adventure pass from the US Forest Service to go see the snow. :v:

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

H110Hawk posted:

I have a dumb question, brought about by a dumb predicament by a dumb owner. Turns out in 2019 I only replaced the fronts not all 4 on my 2016 Prius V and yesterday I took a good look at the rears and :stare: XX15 date code and lots of cracking. They're the original tires from the factory. Car lives outside in the full socal sun. It only has 44,600 miles on it.

The fronts are 205/60R16 92V FALKEN ZIEX ZE950 and they suck. Low traction, and squirrely in the rain. I guess it could be the old rear end rears but they have plenty of tread on them still. Never really had this problem with $RandomPassengerCarTire before so I'm a little stumped. What should I replace these with? TireRack has so many options. If the answer is "your car is what sucks" I'll put whatever Just Tires has in my size on it tomorrow.

No snow rating required. I'll chain up if I decide to buy an adventure pass from the US Forest Service to go see the snow. :v:

Here are a few choice picks I’m seeing in my area:

- Michelin CrossClimate 2
- Sumitomo HTR A/S P03
- Vredestein Quatrac

Any of these would probably do the trick I suspect. Definitely some different approaches to tires here, but all are suitable for daily driver duties. I’d mess around with their recommendation feature and see if anything else jumps out at you.

Sashimi
Dec 26, 2008


College Slice
The transmission fluid needs to be changed on my 2019 Fit with a CVT, but I'd like to avoid the expense of taking it to a mechanic. This should be something I can handle if I'm comfortable with changing my oil, right?

Cached Money
Apr 11, 2010

PainterofCrap posted:

When I lived in Europe in the 70's, certain Mobylette mopeds had an accessory body you could install around the seat to keep the rain (mostly) out. Looked like a tube & canvas tent, with plastic curtain side windows, and a thin Plexiglas windscreen sporting a hand-operated wiper. No.

you'd still see those around sometimes when I was a kid in the late 90s/early 00s here. you can still buy universal kits from china for scooters, which are basically the same thing too. i looked at them the other day on aliexpress.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

H110Hawk posted:

I have a dumb question, brought about by a dumb predicament by a dumb owner. Turns out in 2019 I only replaced the fronts not all 4 on my 2016 Prius V and yesterday I took a good look at the rears and :stare: XX15 date code and lots of cracking. They're the original tires from the factory. Car lives outside in the full socal sun. It only has 44,600 miles on it.

The fronts are 205/60R16 92V FALKEN ZIEX ZE950 and they suck. Low traction, and squirrely in the rain. I guess it could be the old rear end rears but they have plenty of tread on them still. Never really had this problem with $RandomPassengerCarTire before so I'm a little stumped. What should I replace these with? TireRack has so many options. If the answer is "your car is what sucks" I'll put whatever Just Tires has in my size on it tomorrow.

No snow rating required. I'll chain up if I decide to buy an adventure pass from the US Forest Service to go see the snow. :v:

There's a tire thread that might have more info for you, but I would just put 4 new quality tires on there and call it good. I'm personally partial to Continental, Pirelli, and Michelin tires. I've only bought tires for sport sedans and SUV's though, maybe a different tire is best for something like a Prius. My local Discount Tire has 4 Continental ControlContact Tour A/S Plus tires in stock right now and I would be 100% OK throwing those on a car.

I have not had a great experience with Hankook tires on my Ford SUV's that came with them OEM.

Time really does a number on tires it seems. I have a 6 year old set of Conti Extreme Contact DWS06 with less than 20K miles on them, and the performance of them is just shot. I guess they've gotten a lot harder or something because they act nothing like they did when they were brand new. They don't have the same traction in wet or dry conditions anymore, to the point where they may be a liability in the rain.

Tire thread https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3887596

Bank
Feb 20, 2004

Sashimi posted:

The transmission fluid needs to be changed on my 2019 Fit with a CVT, but I'd like to avoid the expense of taking it to a mechanic. This should be something I can handle if I'm comfortable with changing my oil, right?

Yup, I just looked up a video on it and its pretty easy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3k0owQXUY6c

You even have a level check bolt which means you don't even need to check the dipstick for leveling -- this is the hardest part for me for some reason, I always get the fluid level wrong on my car. It takes me like 3 tries of driving around the block and checking the stick.

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc

Safety Dance posted:

:justpost:

Start with this image:

And compare and contrast your predictions with what actually happened.

That's gonna be so frustrating, but I have a good excuse!

esperantinc
May 5, 2003

JERRY! HELLO!

Any reccomendations for a battery charger? Car died last Augustish, and it's been sitting since. I'm finally ready to get rid of the thing, but with a dead battery, I can't particularly get into the trunk to get the rest of my stuff out, ha. So the battery is deader than dead, so I think I need something that can "force" the trickle charge to start? I live in an apartment and don't have a long enough extension cord, so this is a "battery comes inside to charge" venture, if that makes a difference. I don't need the thing to turn over, just get enough juice so I can pop the trunk and take the parking brake off.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I would just have a friend park next to you with a pair of jumper cables. 12v is 12v it doesn't have to come from that battery

esperantinc
May 5, 2003

JERRY! HELLO!

Hadlock posted:

I would just have a friend park next to you with a pair of jumper cables. 12v is 12v it doesn't have to come from that battery

Pretend I don't have any friends!

movax
Aug 30, 2008

esperantinc posted:

Pretend I don't have any friends!

Little Noco jump starter thing might work for you. Not 100% sure UI-wise how/if/when they start outputting voltage, but sounds like you're not actually trying to crank, just need barest minimum of energy to actuate a latch.

Though, my newest car is a 2006... is there really no manual trunk release?

Bank
Feb 20, 2004

movax posted:

Little Noco jump starter thing might work for you. Not 100% sure UI-wise how/if/when they start outputting voltage, but sounds like you're not actually trying to crank, just need barest minimum of energy to actuate a latch.

Though, my newest car is a 2006... is there really no manual trunk release?

I have one of those jump starters and I'd recommend just buying it anyway. I leave it in the car and charge it every few months to keep it topped off if/when I need it. Sure, it'll be overkill for what OP needs it for right now, but it could come in handy in the future. I've certainly used mine 2-3 times already as my kids leave the dome lights on all the time.

phosdex
Dec 16, 2005

Bank posted:

I have one of those jump starters and I'd recommend just buying it anyway. I leave it in the car and charge it every few months to keep it topped off if/when I need it. Sure, it'll be overkill for what OP needs it for right now, but it could come in handy in the future. I've certainly used mine 2-3 times already as my kids leave the dome lights on all the time.

I'm thinking the one I've had is maybe 5 years old now. What is a realistic lifespan of one of these? I have used it a few times, but not in quite a while now.

Longpig Bard
Dec 29, 2004



This bolt on top of a strut tower is sheared off, is that “take it in” bad?

esperantinc
May 5, 2003

JERRY! HELLO!

movax posted:

Little Noco jump starter thing might work for you. Not 100% sure UI-wise how/if/when they start outputting voltage, but sounds like you're not actually trying to crank, just need barest minimum of energy to actuate a latch.

Though, my newest car is a 2006... is there really no manual trunk release?

You would think there would be! It's a 2014 Volvo S60, and unless I missed something, it does not, other than the "oops I got kidnapped" cord in the trunk itself. And the release to pop the rear seats down is...wait for it...in the trunk. I couldn't get the ski door down to try to unlatch either from the inside.

Edward IV
Jan 15, 2006

movax posted:

Little Noco jump starter thing might work for you. Not 100% sure UI-wise how/if/when they start outputting voltage, but sounds like you're not actually trying to crank, just need barest minimum of energy to actuate a latch.

Though, my newest car is a 2006... is there really no manual trunk release?

I basically had to do that to get into the back of my Forester when its battery went flat. Though the latch is manual, it was locked and there was no easy way to manually unlock it. I just hooked the Noco up to the battery as instructed, turned it on in preparation to crank it, and, instead of starting it, I used my fob to remotely unlock it.

The reason I had to do get to the back first was the hood prop was stowed there as the rubber gland that held it in the engine bay degraded and I didn't feel comfortable leaving it in there loose. I wanted the hood propped before I started it for piece of mind something went wrong and so the Noco wouldn't be harmed when starting the car with a partially closed hood.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

skipdogg posted:

There's a tire thread that might have more info for you, but I would just put 4 new quality tires on there and call it good. I'm personally partial to Continental, Pirelli, and Michelin tires. I've only bought tires for sport sedans and SUV's though, maybe a different tire is best for something like a Prius. My local Discount Tire has 4 Continental ControlContact Tour A/S Plus tires in stock right now and I would be 100% OK throwing those on a car.

I have not had a great experience with Hankook tires on my Ford SUV's that came with them OEM.

Time really does a number on tires it seems. I have a 6 year old set of Conti Extreme Contact DWS06 with less than 20K miles on them, and the performance of them is just shot. I guess they've gotten a lot harder or something because they act nothing like they did when they were brand new. They don't have the same traction in wet or dry conditions anymore, to the point where they may be a liability in the rain.

nitsuga posted:

Here are a few choice picks I’m seeing in my area:

- Michelin CrossClimate 2
- Sumitomo HTR A/S P03
- Vredestein Quatrac

Thanks, I think I'm going to go with something like these two lists. I have Hankook summers on my Z4 and they're good not great. The Bridgestone Potenza's (Summers) I had on before were great / awesome. Truly point and shoot even in the rain.

And yeah - UV does a number on rubber (like everything), vulcanized or otherwise, over time. We don't get _super_ cold winters, it goes below freezing but it's not a hard freeze - my exposed copper pipes are just fine. I assume it's they've gotten harder but also they've just sucked since we installed them.

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

esperantinc posted:

You would think there would be! It's a 2014 Volvo S60, and unless I missed something, it does not, other than the "oops I got kidnapped" cord in the trunk itself. And the release to pop the rear seats down is...wait for it...in the trunk. I couldn't get the ski door down to try to unlatch either from the inside.

There is a hidden hole for your key next to the trunk button (according to YouTube)

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

esperantinc posted:

You would think there would be! It's a 2014 Volvo S60, and unless I missed something, it does not, other than the "oops I got kidnapped" cord in the trunk itself. And the release to pop the rear seats down is...wait for it...in the trunk. I couldn't get the ski door down to try to unlatch either from the inside.

there is a way to get the trunk open without power. check the manual.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



The Audi A4 Quattro cabriolet I just acquired has a manual keyslot for the trunk - it's mounted vertically, next to the soft button that triggers the solenoid (when it has juice), which is recessed above the license plate tub. I had to get down on the ground & look up to see it, because I couldn't feel it.

When my sister's Prius died, she couldn't get into the car until I showed her that there was a key blade in the fob, that just...pulls out so you can unlock the door manually. She had no idea.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Never, and I mean never, lock yourself out of a E89 Z4 trunk with the battery disconnected. You will regret your life choices. The only way in is through the ski pass-through in the middle to fish around and grab the emergency release handle largely blind with a specialized coat hangar.

https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1230581

If the battery is hooked up and not a dead-short you can supply 14VDC through the hood jump ports with sufficient amperage to start the computer and press the release button and actuate the solenoid.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



PainterofCrap posted:

The Audi A4 Quattro cabriolet I just acquired has a manual keyslot for the trunk - it's mounted vertically, next to the soft button that triggers the solenoid (when it has juice), which is recessed above the license plate tub. I had to get down on the ground & look up to see it, because I couldn't feel it.

When my sister's Prius died, she couldn't get into the car until I showed her that there was a key blade in the fob, that just...pulls out so you can unlock the door manually. She had no idea.

Nice ride, I have a 2013 A4 sedan myself and it's a quality car. Seems like it will last me.

esperantinc
May 5, 2003

JERRY! HELLO!

RIP Paul Walker posted:

There is a hidden hole for your key next to the trunk button (according to YouTube)

There is not! I've watched that video too.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

there is a way to get the trunk open without power. check the manual.

There is not. I've checked.

Yinz really think I'd be asking about buying an article of last resort if I hadn't already tried everything else?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

You'd be surprised how many people want to jump straight to the most complex idea when a better solution exists.

Get a booster pack at Costco or whatever auto parts store is closest. It'll supply 12v plenty long to make your car happy and pop the trunk.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

esperantinc posted:

Yinz really think I'd be asking about buying an article of last resort if I hadn't already tried everything else?

yes

Safety Dance is right, get a booster pack or otherwise jump the car. Surprised you haven't done that already.

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Sarah Cenia
Apr 2, 2008

Laying in the forest, by the water
Underneath these ferns
You'll never find me
and booster packs immediately pay for themselves 300 times over the first time you gotta break one out.

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