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totalnewbie
Nov 13, 2005

I was born and raised in China, lived in Japan, and now hold a US passport.

I am wrong in every way, all the damn time.

Ask me about my tattoos.

Safety Dance posted:

You'd be surprised how many people want to jump straight to the most complex idea when a better solution exists.

Laughs in engineering

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RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

esperantinc posted:

Yinz really think I'd be asking about buying an article of last resort if I hadn't already tried everything else?

Nothing personal, just decades of experience with people whose mental process immediately jumps past the simple/obvious/“maybe I can look it up myself” steps.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Sarah Cenia posted:

and booster packs immediately pay for themselves 300 times over the first time you gotta break one out.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Hell, I still gently caress myself over by going with the "oh, that would be fun!" solution vs a better one.

esperantinc
May 5, 2003

JERRY! HELLO!

RIP Paul Walker posted:

Nothing personal, just decades of experience with people whose mental process immediately jumps past the simple/obvious/“maybe I can look it up myself” steps.

Nah, nothing taken my man. I work in IT and started in support there, so I'm of the "okay I need to try everything before asking" ilk, and get aggrivated when people don't try the simple stuff, ha.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

You're getting rid of this car, right? Does that mean selling it? If so, you will probably get a better price if you put a new battery in it so it starts. If you're selling it for scrap, the simple solution is to take a vigorous power tool to whatever is the most convenient latch and destroy it until you're in the car.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Sarah Cenia posted:

and booster packs immediately pay for themselves 300 times over the first time you gotta break one out.

Sitting in a target parking lot waiting for AAA to show up and jump me made me think long and hard about walking right back inside to buy one. I didn't though due to sunk cost fallacy. Hell I probably could have walked right back in and returned it.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Assuming you can boost the battery and it holds a charge I wouldn’t bother replacing the battery.

Yak Shaves Dot Com
Jan 5, 2009
Does the car insurance thread exist anymore?

Edward IV
Jan 15, 2006

H110Hawk posted:

Sitting in a target parking lot waiting for AAA to show up and jump me made me think long and hard about walking right back inside to buy one. I didn't though due to sunk cost fallacy. Hell I probably could have walked right back in and returned it.

They usually don't come fully charged out of the box for safety and battery health reasons so you would have been stuck wait a few hours for it to charge.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Edward IV posted:

They usually don't come fully charged out of the box for safety and battery health reasons so you would have been stuck wait a few hours for it to charge.

Lithium ones would be at 60% if I was lucky. Probably enough to crank a 1.xL Honda civic.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I’ve just asked people for a jump in the parking lot. If you’ve got the cables, almost nobody’s gonna say no.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

H110Hawk posted:

Lithium ones would be at 60% if I was lucky. Probably enough to crank a 1.xL Honda civic.

Even jumping the M5 from a dead battery only took an implied 20% on the lithium one i have.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

totalnewbie posted:

Laughs in engineering in German.


FTFY




E: Re booster packs, yeah they don't have o be fully charged to boost you.
A couple summers ago my drill had a dead battery. Sent my helper to Canadian tire for some cables and a Booster pack, we tried the booster pack first and it started a small Diesel. Battery wasn't dead dead but it was bad enough that the solenoid wouldn't click.

wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 22:59 on May 31, 2023

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Yak Shaves Dot Com posted:

Does the car insurance thread exist anymore?

Theres a generic insurance thread

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3488763&pagenumber=72#lastpost

Edward IV
Jan 15, 2006

In my case, the NOCO arrived with only a 25% reading and I needed all the juice I could get. The Forester's battery only read 8V after first trying and failing to start the car. By the time the NOCO arrived, none of the electricals works. No power locks, the trip odometer and clock reset, and the Cobb unit couldn't get any readings. I wasn't sure if the battery went bad it came as a surprise to me that it had died. Granted, I only drive it weekly and had only driven it 10 miles the prior to get it gas and then warm up the engine the week before instead of the 50 miles commuting to work. Also, I started getting into the habit of manually stopping and starting the engine when stopped at traffic lights so that probably put extra load on the battery and the 10 mile drive wasn't sufficient to charge it back up enough. I guess I'm not doing that anymore.

At least I had the ID.4 to take in its stead but I knew better than to try to use the ID.4 to jump it. Especially because it's still brand new and didn't want to gently caress it up and the fact that the 12V system may not have been provisioned to handle jumping and cranking an ICE car. The DC-DC converter is apparently a somewhat sensitive and very expensive part that could be damaged from jumping an ICE car. At most, I probably could have charged the Forester's battery with the ID.4 by hooking up jumper cables and then turning on the ID.4 to let the high-voltage battery charge the 12V batteries. That said, the convenience offered by the NOCO is certainly a game changer.

Yak Shaves Dot Com
Jan 5, 2009

Thanks!

Dr. Fraiser Chain
May 18, 2004

Redlining my shit posting machine


I have a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Occasionally it sounds like someone next to me has a loud sound system with a lot of bass. That bass rumble. Lasts about a second, sounds like it comes from my engine/under that hood. Happens about once every couple of hours of driving. Just started happening a couple weeks ago. Any ideas of what this could be?

latinotwink1997
Jan 2, 2008

Taste my Ball of Hope, foul dragon!


Dr. Lunchables posted:

I’ve just asked people for a jump in the parking lot. If you’ve got the cables, almost nobody’s gonna say no.

I’d probably be one of the few to say no because of previous bad experience. I tried jumping my moms completely dead battery once. My car’s dashboard was flickering and going crazy, I had a hard time starting my car after, and less than a month later had to replace my battery because it wasn’t holding a charge anymore. Was never sure if it’s because her battery was so dead it overloaded mine or if it messed up the smart electronics (VW) in my battery (or just complete coincidence).

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Well, if I already made it to the parking lot, the battery isn’t completely dead

Sashimi
Dec 26, 2008


College Slice

Bank posted:

Yup, I just looked up a video on it and its pretty easy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3k0owQXUY6c

You even have a level check bolt which means you don't even need to check the dipstick for leveling -- this is the hardest part for me for some reason, I always get the fluid level wrong on my car. It takes me like 3 tries of driving around the block and checking the stick.
One more question about changing transmission fluid: is it totally necessary to change the washer on the drain plug if its still in good condition? Its becoming a pain in the rear end for me to source one.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Dr. Fraiser Chain posted:

I have a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Occasionally it sounds like someone next to me has a loud sound system with a lot of bass. That bass rumble. Lasts about a second, sounds like it comes from my engine/under that hood. Happens about once every couple of hours of driving. Just started happening a couple weeks ago. Any ideas of what this could be?

Is it heat/temp related? could be the A/C compressor, A/C clutch or radiator fan cranking up to 11

Bank
Feb 20, 2004

Sashimi posted:

One more question about changing transmission fluid: is it totally necessary to change the washer on the drain plug if its still in good condition? Its becoming a pain in the rear end for me to source one.

It's probably not a big deal as I've reused them before, but you do risk leaks and in theory they are only one time use.

My oil and transmission plug both take the same size washer so I bought a pack of 20 from Amazon for like $10. I use new ones every time because I once had a tiny leak due to a bad washer and had to get the car up to retighten and clean off the driveway which is a lot of work to save $0.50.

You don't have to buy OEM, if you tell us your car I'm sure some of us could tell you what size you need.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

Sashimi posted:

One more question about changing transmission fluid: is it totally necessary to change the washer on the drain plug if its still in good condition? Its becoming a pain in the rear end for me to source one.
If it's a copper washer you can anneal it by heating it up with a propane flame or similar. Copper work hardens but the heat will make it soft and malleable again so it will seal better when re-used. Not best practice but people do it all the time and it works. You can also get a box of assorted crush washers at an auto parts place for 20 bucks and find one that fits.

Sashimi
Dec 26, 2008


College Slice

Bank posted:

It's probably not a big deal as I've reused them before, but you do risk leaks and in theory they are only one time use.

My oil and transmission plug both take the same size washer so I bought a pack of 20 from Amazon for like $10. I use new ones every time because I once had a tiny leak due to a bad washer and had to get the car up to retighten and clean off the driveway which is a lot of work to save $0.50.

You don't have to buy OEM, if you tell us your car I'm sure some of us could tell you what size you need.
2019 Honda Fit LX with CVT.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
did you call your local honda dealer? i can't imagine it's too expensive and they would definitely be able to source it.

Sashimi
Dec 26, 2008


College Slice

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

did you call your local honda dealer? i can't imagine it's too expensive and they would definitely be able to source it.
I've had lots of bad experiences with them, so I'd rather not give them my business. There is one near my work though that I may try.

Bank
Feb 20, 2004

Sashimi posted:

2019 Honda Fit LX with CVT.

90471-PX4-000

ID 0.7in = 18mm
OD 1in = 25.5mm
Thickness 0.08in = 2mm

You can get 15 of them for $7:
https://www.amazon.com/12pcs-Transmission-Differential-Washer-Gasket/dp/B09PD648BG?th=1

They also sell the M14 which would be good for your oil drain plug.

Bank fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Jun 1, 2023

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Brake question guys.....2015 Scion xB, discs all around.

Just replaced all the pads and rotors, front and rear, and now the E brake is dragging. Not horribly, but enough to make noise and if I turn the wheel by hand it will stop the wheel after 1 1/2 to 2 turns.

The funny thing is the E brake handle doesn't feel any tighter, actually a bit looser. I can't find anything on the internet about this, just loose E brakes and how to tighten them, I need to loosen them but do I do it at the handle or on the calipers?

[e] They are disc E brakes, not the drum inside of a rotor type E brake

[e2] I don't think it's the parking brake mechanism now, something else is going on, probably caliper pistons sticking or something and now i gotta drive to the keys tomorrow and don't have time to look into it more. It's not horrible so I think it will be fine for now I guess

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Jun 1, 2023

Sashimi
Dec 26, 2008


College Slice

Bank posted:

90471-PX4-000

ID 0.7in = 18mm
OD 1in = 25.5mm
Thickness 0.08in = 2mm

You can get 15 of them for $7:
https://www.amazon.com/12pcs-Transmission-Differential-Washer-Gasket/dp/B09PD648BG?th=1

They also sell the M14 which would be good for your oil drain plug.
Thanks!

Bank
Feb 20, 2004

JFYI I had the wrong link earlier, just make sure you grab the right one!

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Brake question guys.....2015 Scion xB, discs all around.

Just replaced all the pads and rotors, front and rear, and now the E brake is dragging. Not horribly, but enough to make noise and if I turn the wheel by hand it will stop the wheel after 1 1/2 to 2 turns.

The funny thing is the E brake handle doesn't feel any tighter, actually a bit looser. I can't find anything on the internet about this, just loose E brakes and how to tighten them, I need to loosen them but do I do it at the handle or on the calipers?

[e] They are disc E brakes, not the drum inside of a rotor type E brake

[e2] I don't think it's the parking brake mechanism now, something else is going on, probably caliper pistons sticking or something and now i gotta drive to the keys tomorrow and don't have time to look into it more. It's not horrible so I think it will be fine for now I guess

If the piston is sticking, it could very well be because of the Ebrake mechanism. Especially if the handle is a bit looser. Both rear wheels?

Is the caliper the style where the piston has to be turned to retract it?
I had a problem like what you describe on my 09 Corolla, always on the driver side. I went through the original caliper, followed by a few remans before opting for a brand new caliper and the problem hasn't returned. Yet.

The problem never cropped up immediately that I recall, but I suspect that when I was using my drill to (slowly) turn the piston to retract it, I might have bottomed it out and damaged something in the ebrake mechanism. As I mentioned, the same thing happened on the original as well as 2 or 3 remans before I bought anew one from rock auto and it hasn't happened again.

The new calipers didn't have a core charge so I now have the last reman that I bought and the original caliper from the passenger side. The Parking brake lever itself seized up on that one.

I've been considering getting a rebuild kit for them, but all the ones I've seen seem to only come with seals. Possibly(?) why they all had the same problem maybe. The rebuilder just threw new seals at it and didn't bother giving much of an inspection to the rest.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Yeah both wheels, altho one is a good bit worse than the other. And it's the piston style you described, gotta turn it in. I didn't really think it could possibly be the calipers at first because the miles are low (50k) and this is literally the first time the brakes have been done by me, quite possibly ever. But after digging some more it appears to be the case, lovely deign maybe?

Anyway I'm an idiot because I'm going on a road trip tomorrow and waited too long thinking it was just an adjustment issue. The drivers side isn't dragging that bad, and the passenger side will turn about twice before stopping. It's not ideal but I don't have a choice now, I've been driving around like this for a few weeks and I haven't smelled any burning or seen any smoke or anything so I'm assuming it should be ok for now. I'll take my laser temp gauge and keep an eye on the temps I guess, anyone have an idea of an "oh poo poo better let it cool off" range?

I mean at worst im thinking it might heat up the wheel bearing and shorten it's overall life but oh well, I can't deal with it now.

I'm guessing that since I'm not smelling any burning brakes it's not too hot to worry about but I guess I'll find out lol.

[e] Looks like 100 to 800 degrees is normal, then 1300 top of the range and anything over 1500 is DANGER WILL ROBINSON

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Jun 1, 2023

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Yeah both wheels, altho one is a good bit worse than the other. And it's the piston style you described, gotta turn it in. I didn't really think it could possibly be the calipers at first because the miles are low (50k) and this is literally the first time the brakes have been done by me, quite possibly ever. But after digging some more it appears to be the case, lovely deign maybe?

Anyway I'm an idiot because I'm going on a road trip tomorrow and waited too long thinking it was just an adjustment issue. The drivers side isn't dragging that bad, and the passenger side will turn about twice before stopping. It's not ideal but I don't have a choice now, I've been driving around like this for a few weeks and I haven't smelled any burning or seen any smoke or anything so I'm assuming it should be ok for now. I'll take my laser temp gauge and keep an eye on the temps I guess, anyone have an idea of an "oh poo poo better let it cool off" range?

I mean at worst im thinking it might heat up the wheel bearing and shorten it's overall life but oh well, I can't deal with it now.

I'm guessing that since I'm not smelling any burning brakes it's not too hot to worry about but I guess I'll find out lol.

[e] Looks like 100 to 800 degrees is normal, then 1300 top of the range and anything over 1500 is DANGER WILL ROBINSON

If the brake is dragging, it'll self-clearance before too long

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe
Idk much about running an auto body shop but quite frankly if they give an estimate on day 1 and you sign a commitment to repair there and they give you a repair day appointment 27 days out, you probably shouldn't get a call 2 days after you drop your car off saying 'we had to order [door panel that is damaged and replacement was quoted in the estimate] and it's going to be at least another week.'

I thought at first they were backed up because we get frequent and awful hail here.

I'd care a lot more if the other guys insurance wasn't covering all of this but as a guy in manufacturing the inefficiency is killing me.

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe

tactlessbastard posted:

Idk much about running an auto body shop but quite frankly if they give an estimate on day 1 and you sign a commitment to repair there and they give you a repair day appointment 27 days out, you probably shouldn't get a call 2 days after you drop your car off saying 'we had to order [door panel that is damaged and replacement was quoted in the estimate] and it's going to be at least another week.'

I thought at first they were backed up because we get frequent and awful hail here.

I'd care a lot more if the other guys insurance wasn't covering all of this but as a guy in manufacturing the inefficiency is killing me.

Otoh efficiency be damned getting this door panel replaced is also going to fix a poo poo load of chip damage on the edge of the door unrelated to this parking lot accident lol

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006
While we're talking about them, what booster pack would y'all recommend?

My family has AAA because my father is spiritually thirty years older than his actual age, but gently caress having to wait for a truck to do something I can do myself.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

I got one of the tiny lithium ones from Costco and it's been worth every penny. S series or something like that.

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

Captain Log posted:

While we're talking about them, what booster pack would y'all recommend?

My family has AAA because my father is spiritually thirty years older than his actual age, but gently caress having to wait for a truck to do something I can do myself.

I got project farm’s second choice and it’s been great for years. The one I got from Costco at the time was useless.

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trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

tactlessbastard posted:

Idk much about running an auto body shop but quite frankly if they give an estimate on day 1 and you sign a commitment to repair there and they give you a repair day appointment 27 days out, you probably shouldn't get a call 2 days after you drop your car off saying 'we had to order [door panel that is damaged and replacement was quoted in the estimate] and it's going to be at least another week.'

I thought at first they were backed up because we get frequent and awful hail here.

I'd care a lot more if the other guys insurance wasn't covering all of this but as a guy in manufacturing the inefficiency is killing me.

happens all the time, fwiw. The body shop had to keep my FiST an extra week because they ended up replacing (ie ordering) some bumper mounts that I guess they’d thought they could either reuse or get locally quicker

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