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I've got square taper cranks on two of my bikes that are literally over 50 years old. I grease the spindle/crank interface every time I overhaul the bb because that's what the manufacturer recommends. Of course, these are well made in  beauties. Maybe splitting cranks is more of an issue with less refined manufacturers.
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Jun 1, 2023 15:22
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| # ? Jun 1, 2024 11:49 |
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The link I posted discussed a believable issue with greasing the taper: that when greased, the pedaling action wiggles things and lets the pressure from the locking bolt/nut move the crank further onto the taper, which makes the bolt/nut feel looser (how much is debatable, but for the sake of this scenario, loose enough to where the mechanic feels inclined to tighten it more), the mechanic tightens the bolt/nut and then the whole cycle repeats until the aluminum crank has been split open by the steel taper. the solution it mentions is... don't keep tightening! I have installed many many square taper cranksets and I always put on a thin layer of grease, tighten them firmly once, never tighten them a 2nd time, and I've never had anything come loose. Riding all winter too, never had to deal with corrosion preventing removal (which is an issue I've encountered on neglected bikes using quality crank removers).
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Jun 2, 2023 04:37
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bicievino posted:I've got square taper cranks on two of my bikes that are literally over 50 years old. I grease the spindle/crank interface every time I overhaul the bb because that's what the manufacturer recommends. Rene Herse would agree that crank construction is relevant: https://www.renehersecycles.com/to-grease-or-not-to-grease/
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Jun 2, 2023 04:39
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Next we should figure out if it's okay to use a torque wrench on the crank bolt depending on the potential greased/ungreased taper and bolt combinations
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Jun 2, 2023 21:44
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Dog Case posted:Next we should figure out if it's okay to use a torque wrench on the crank bolt depending on the potential greased/ungreased taper and bolt combinations After this we should figure out if clips are better than flats
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Jun 3, 2023 01:13
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I can't figure out this noise, and I'm a huge noob this is only the 2nd derailleur I installed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IVWSC2RKBE * checked to make sure I have the chain routed inside the tab between the jockey wheels * checked the hanger alignment, its perfect * checked the bracket axle alignment, also perfect (its the hanger attached to the hanger) * Thought the chain might be too short, added 3 links same noise * Thought it might be too dry, added some lube its the same * looked for a wobbling cassette, can't spot anything * Tightened the B screw all the way until there was ~20mm of space between the top jockey and the biggest cog no change at any setting * tightened the cable until it almost wants to shift up, loosened it until it almost wants to shift down, and everywhere in between * made sure the chain logos are facing out (directional chain) * I checked that the bracket axle tab is sitting flush on the hanger  * checked the chain and jockeys for narrow/wide issues. The chainring is correctly aligned, and the jockeys only have 1 size of tooth It shifts really well, I'm super happy with the shifting but it sounds like I raced a gravel race on a rainy day and haven't cleaned it yet. Someone said it might be the chain line issue due to the GRX offset, but I feel like a chainline issue should disappear in at least 1 spot on the cassette. - Shimano GRX FC-RX810-1 Crankset 42 Tooth - Shimano CN-HG601 QL 11 Speed Chain - Shimano Ultegra RD-R8000 11SP Derailleur SS Cage, 11 Speed, 30T Max - Shimano Ultegra CS-R8000 11SP Cassette 11-30T Salt Fish fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Jun 7, 2023 |
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Jun 7, 2023 03:48
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Salt Fish posted:I can't figure out this noise, and I'm a huge noob this is only the 2nd derailleur I installed. Sounds like you did everything. Go for a ride, either it'll break and you'll die instantly, or it'll be fine and you'll have had a nice ride and your worries will be lighter 🙂
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Jun 7, 2023 04:25
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What on earth gives you the idea of building a bicycle is to go on a bike ride? I have bikes for that...
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Jun 7, 2023 04:31
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Hard to tell from this angle. Does it look like the cassette is sitting very close to the DS dropout?
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Jun 7, 2023 04:47
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Here is the spacing between the cassette and the dropout. It is flush against the lock ring.   
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Jun 7, 2023 04:53
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Is the cage slightly bent? Jockey wheels might not be seating straight in the chain, and it looks like there's some abrasion happening here:
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Jun 7, 2023 15:42
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You mean just the cage not whether the whole derailleur is bent?
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Jun 7, 2023 15:46
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Speaking of which, my pretty much brand-new R8000 RD shows similar abrasion in the exact same spot. Does anyone have any idea what could cause it? It shifts fine. Pic below (dw I will be washing my bike later tonight, they laid some new gravel on my usual route this week) 
Lex Neville fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Jun 7, 2023 |
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Jun 7, 2023 17:58
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I brought it to a shop and they all thought it was medium noisy but normal and floated one theory for a counterfeit chain. I'm probably being picky but I have 7 bikes and this is the loudest one including a 1976 10-speed.
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Jun 7, 2023 20:54
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Just got my first bike! It's an old Canadian assembled Boyes & Rosser Cycles(BRC) 10 speed road bike from the 70's or 80's. It's a Japanese lugged frame with a hodgepodge of parts from SR, Shimano Tourney center-pull brakes, Shimano Eagle rear derailleur, Suntour Compe-V front derailleur, Shimano banded friction shifters, and a bunch of big-ole fenders and a Swiss rat trap rear rack. Front crankset gears are 48T/36T, and the rear gears go from 28T to 14T. Wheels are Araya 27"x1-1/4" , looks like it wants wired tires? The bike's geometry fits me perfectly, but it's obviously an old, low to mid range bike. I don't want to throw too much money at this bike, but I am excited for my first beater resto! I'm inclined to put cyclocross/gravel bike tyres on it so I can take it on some gravel trails/roads and dry grassy areas, while still retaining decent on-road efficiency. Given I have ample clearance due to the center pull brakes, is that a reasonable idea? Is the gear ratio alright for mild gravel walking/biking trails? The fenders can be removed if need be for clearance I'm taking it down to the local bike co-op tomorrow to get help tearing it down completely, so I can strip the finish/corrosion and repaint the frame and forks, redo all the bearings, cables, and such as needed, and do any reasonable upgrades with the co-op's big selection of used parts. Is there anywhere I should pay special attention to? Any tips on some parts that will be a big bang:buck improvement? Is this a fool's errand? Should I retain the practically no-name badging, or should I just get some cool custom decals to put on after it's repainted?        
Mederlock fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Jun 7, 2023 |
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Jun 7, 2023 21:29
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Salt Fish posted:I brought it to a shop and they all thought it was medium noisy but normal and floated one theory for a counterfeit chain. I'm probably being picky but I have 7 bikes and this is the loudest one including a 1976 10-speed. I had a similar issue with a chain I bought from amazon! Replaced it with a chain from a reputable retailer and it fixed the issue. Seems worth a try at least.
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Jun 7, 2023 22:03
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Sphyre posted:I had a similar issue with a chain I bought from amazon! Replaced it with a chain from a reputable retailer and it fixed the issue. Seems worth a try at least. I've had the same issue with a shimano chain from a bike shop. Just get a louder freewheel!
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Jun 7, 2023 22:13
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Mederlock posted:Bike Change the crank and BB for something square taper, should be straightforward finding parts. Double or triple, won't terribly matter with that transmission. Otherwise I wouldn't try to upgrade parts too much on that. I wouldn't repaint either.
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Jun 7, 2023 22:23
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SimonSays posted:Change the crank and BB for something square taper, should be straightforward finding parts. Double or triple, won't terribly matter with that transmission. Otherwise I wouldn't try to upgrade parts too much on that. I wouldn't repaint either. Yeah, I'm definitely not planning on throwing too much money at it, mainly just fresh bearings and the like. The brakes and shifters all work well. The faded to white paint is killing me though, I'm definitely planning on repainting it as well as spending some time with polish on the metal bits to bring it back to passably decent cosmetic standards, even just for the sake of improving it's resale value (got it for $50 CAD). I have some experience with painting and understand the headache that the proper prep will take. What's the advantage from going square taper?
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Jun 7, 2023 22:31
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I feel like the white paint is an intentional paint job and not faded. I can't even imagine what kind of exposure could fade the paint like that and not absolutely destroy everything else on the bike
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Jun 7, 2023 22:50
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To me that looks like someone was spray painting something else next to the bike and it got a bunch of overspray
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Jun 7, 2023 22:58
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Dog Case posted:I feel like the white paint is an intentional paint job and not faded. I can't even imagine what kind of exposure could fade the paint like that and not absolutely destroy everything else on the bike I'm positive it's not intentional. One half of the bike is more faded than the other, I'm quite sure it's been bleached by year's if not decades of exposure to the sun. All of the aluminum and chrome is in pretty rough shape too. The handle bars had a neoprene foam covering that was absolutely falling apart from UV degradation which I cut off before taking those photos.  Vs  And  vs  E: I should also add all of the groupset/brakes/etc. were pretty well covered in oily/greasy schmoo, which I washed off at a wand wash before I took those pictures. Some of it was on the frame as well so could be that helped protect it against the UV some too. Mederlock fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Jun 7, 2023 |
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Jun 7, 2023 23:05
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Mederlock posted:What's the advantage from going square taper? What you got on there are cottered cranks, which means they're held on by that pin going through the side at the base of the crank arm rather than just being screwed on. Taking off cotters can apparently be pretty involved especially on older bikes where it might be pretty on there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEbXlkaJcE4&t=336s Not very convenient if you want to replace anything down there
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Jun 7, 2023 23:13
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There are theoretically good cottered cranks but you'll almost certainly never see one ever.
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Jun 7, 2023 23:20
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Mederlock posted:just for the sake of improving it's resale value (got it for $50 CAD). I have some experience with painting and understand the headache that the proper prep will take. If you feel like having a pain in the rear end painting project, knock yourself out and have a great time, but that precise justification usually comes up and it's probably not going to move the needle vs a well-worn-in original paint job. It'll still be a beater to any prospective buyer, just one with an amateur paint job that removes all the original information about the bike.
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Jun 7, 2023 23:26
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Salt Fish posted:I brought it to a shop and they all thought it was medium noisy but normal and floated one theory for a counterfeit chain. I'm probably being picky but I have 7 bikes and this is the loudest one including a 1976 10-speed. Did you buy the chain from Amazon or eBay?
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Jun 8, 2023 00:19
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TobinHatesYou posted:Did you buy the chain from Amazon or eBay? Jenson website. I still have the box. It has the silver infill on 2 of the 3 bars on the top, and the checkmark is very clearly hand drawn with blue on the 126L box. It also has compact normal looking font on the back using that video as a reference.
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Jun 8, 2023 00:35
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Salt Fish posted:Jenson website. I still have the box. It has the silver infill on 2 of the 3 bars on the top, and the checkmark is very clearly hand drawn with blue on the 126L box. It also has compact normal looking font on the back using that video as a reference. Very unlikely that Jenson somehow got a counterfeit chain.
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Jun 8, 2023 05:01
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Mederlock posted:Wheels are Araya 27"x1-1/4" , looks like it wants wired tires? The wheel size is 630 or 27" and supply of tires is pretty limited. You aren't likely to find anything that isn't slick. Swapping the wheels to 622 or 28" (yes this is somehow smaller, the inch sizes on bicycle wheels don't make any sense) usually is possible, you just have to lower the brake pads about 4mm. Edit: you might need new brakes for this looking at the pictures. But with 622 wheels you would have plenty of tire options and even a bit more clearance. Whether the swap makes sense kinda depends on if you can find cheap new wheels. It's a lot easier than swapping the cranks though for sure. Havana Affair fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Jun 8, 2023 |
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Jun 8, 2023 06:28
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Havana Affair posted:you just have to lower the brake pads about 4mm. Edit: you might need new brakes for this looking at the pictures. . I just checked and there's about 5-10 mm of adjustment left on the mounting bracket for the brake pad to lower it further, so that should work! If the co-op has wheels available in that size, I think I will make that swap. There seems to be a limited handful of tires that could probably handle some mild dirt/gravel trails for the 27x1-1/4, but they're older stock and pricy. I also found a much nicer bike for $50 that I'm going to go take a look at today that just needs a rear derailleur, so that may mean I'll have 2 project bikes on the go 
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Jun 8, 2023 17:18
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Look for Panaracer Paselas. They're probably the best tire you can still get in 27". They come in 1-1/4" and are usually under $30 each
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Jun 8, 2023 19:26
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Mederlock posted:Just got my first bike! It's an old Canadian assembled Boyes & Rosser Cycles(BRC) 10 speed road bike from the 70's or 80's. It's a Japanese lugged frame with a hodgepodge of parts from SR, Shimano Tourney center-pull brakes, Shimano Eagle rear derailleur, Suntour Compe-V front derailleur, Shimano banded friction shifters, and a bunch of big-ole fenders and a Swiss rat trap rear rack. Front crankset gears are 48T/36T, and the rear gears go from 28T to 14T. Wheels are Araya 27"x1-1/4" , looks like it wants wired tires? If I were gonna change anything on there it'd be the brakes levers. The "suicide brakes" aren't reliable, and the shape of the levers themselves isn't comfortable for most people. You can swap them for some tektros that will both work better and be more comfortable to use for pretty nominal cost. The next investment I'd make is swapping to 700c wheels.
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Jun 8, 2023 20:03
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Thanks for the advice everyone, I appreciate it!  Definitely going to do the square taper BB+crank conversion, better brake levers, and possibly a wheel swap pending used part stock at the co-op, and weighing my options about painting the frame and forks(free time is something I currently have a lot of, and I do intend to preserve/recreate the original markings and badging ). Those Panaracer tires do look good though! So if there aren't any appropriate wheels available I'll just order a set of those instead.
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Jun 8, 2023 20:24
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I threw on some 700c wheels on my 27" commuter and my brake calipers definitely will not reach because they're already bottomed out more or less. Stupidly, before I tried that out I already got it in my head to build some new wheels for it because that's my current learning experience. I found some old Gran sport/nuovo tipo campagnolo hubs on ebay for cheap, got a pair of reasonably priced 27" rims and ordered the three different spoke sizes that I calculated were needed and built those wheels. Front one is tensioned and trued and dish is fine. Just need to find some time to work on the rear one that's built. Picked up a new square tapered crank from the parts bin at the coop and going to remove the 50 year old cottered cranks and BB, measure the spindle length and order a new (most likely french-threaded) BB. I'm very curious to see what grease, it any, is left in that thing. This will complete my several years process of slowly fixing this clunky piece of poo poo and cobbling together pieces that mostly fit the vibe of the original. Still very pretty for what was originally a bike someone bought for dirt cheap in the '70s and left in the garage for nearly 50 years
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Jun 9, 2023 00:47
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Oh yeah, if you're doing 630 to 622, the wonderful Tektro R369 is your friend.
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Jun 9, 2023 02:44
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Yeah, those aren’t as crisp as modern short reach ultegra or whatever but they’re like night and day with low end 80’s brakes You have to pay attention to recessed vs. not recessed when you buy them
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Jun 9, 2023 02:58
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Just got done disassembling the bike with some help at the co-op, that was fun! They were super helpful there and had all the tools needed. But a question Found a couple decent square taper cranks at the co-op, but ran into the question of going with a cartridge sealed BB, or just putting a square taper shaft with the old bottom bracket cups/cones. What's the best way to go there?
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Jun 9, 2023 03:15
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Mederlock posted:Just got done disassembling the bike with some help at the co-op, that was fun! They were super helpful there and had all the tools needed. But a question The second one sounds more fun and practically as good. You can only do that at a co-op frankly, I'd go for it.
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Jun 9, 2023 04:06
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I just put square taper cranks with cup and loose bearings on my race bike. It's a faster choice for racing, but I wouldn't use it for any other purpose, especially if you'll ride in the rain. A shimano BB-UN300 is like... $15 and will last forever.
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Jun 9, 2023 04:51
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| # ? Jun 1, 2024 11:49 |
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I counted all 62 teeth.
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Jun 9, 2023 05:04
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