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Yak Shaves Dot Com posted:So does this mean the fuel economy is going to be slightly off all the time and using more fuel than it needs? I've gotten the impression that the prius gas tank is literally smaller and that could become an issue on long trips. Not at all, no. Remember that the engine is always switching between rich and lean and the catalyst shoves all of that back towards neutral. I guess when I say it's kept at slightly rich, I really mean that they target 450mv (lambda 1) but the sensor will spend more time towards rich than lean. They are not targeting a TWC state where the TWC is depleted of oxygen all the time. Also know that the levels of "slightly rich" I'm talking about are like 0.999 lambda. Keep in mind that not all OEMs use the same strategies or even the same sensors. The elements can differ slightly from OEM-to-OEM (which is why, even though it might work, I wouldn't use a non-OEM sensor) like where the switch point is, etc. Assuming your vehicle is operating correctly, I think your actual fuel economy is pretty unrelated to sensor outputs (again, assuming everything is working fine). It's only when your sensor (or other parts of the exhaust system) aren't working correctly that your fuel economy could be impacted. honda whisperer posted:Interesting. My ecu knowledge is firmly in the past, maybe early 2000s at the newest. Primary only wideband sensors from the factory were new and rare. Back then the LTFT was just STFT averaged over time. Skip down for what I think is the actual, real answer. Also, this is literally what I've been doing for my job lately, answering questions like this (though looking forward, not backwards). Like, I didn't even have to go look for the documents I referenced here because I still have the tabs open. First of all - has it?    Okay, so since 2016, for some OEMs, there hasn't been much change. I wonder what happened that year politically that might have changed the regulatory landscape for the coming few years. But keep in mind that not all vehicles are the same.  But that's not everything, right? You have to keep in mind a lot of other aspects about vehicles when looking at fuel economy performance (not just the raw number)  So overall, vehicles have gotten heavier, bigger, and have better performance but (overall) have not sacrificed fuel economy for that. Let's also look at how OEMs are improving, i.e. what technologies are being used.  (CD = cylinder deactivation in case you're not familiar with that particular acronym) Looking at this, what it tells me is that in general, each OEM has chosen a few specific strategies to implement to achieve their fuel economy improvements and largely avoided some of the others. This makes sense because most of these represent a somewhat dramatic change in how the engine operates. In the cases where it might be less dramatic of a shift, I think that's where you start seeing a lot more partial adoption. But it also means that to further achieve significant fuel savings requires substantial investment that OEMs or customers may not be willing to pay for. It's not cheap to hybridize a vehicle... But at the end of the day, I think the most important thing is that OEMs will make their cars according to the standards and requirements, whether it's CARB or EPA. But practically speaking, it's CARB that regulates criteria pollutants and EPA that regulates GHG emissions (i.e. fuel economy). This isn't to say EPA doesn't also have criteria pollutant requirements, but it has traditionally been less strict than CARB. In 2016, Trump basically gutted the CAFE standards and said "meh, it's fine" and so there hasn't been any regulatory pressure for OEMs to decrease their fleet fuel economy. So OEMs didn't. I honestly think it's that simple. That said, everybody knew that Trump standards weren't permanent (I literally had these conversations with OEMs repeatedly) so it wasn't like development was stopped. But it did mean resources were pulled away from it as they now had more time to improve their performance. Good news though, EPA just released their proposed Tier 4 standards and it has a 13% YoY GHG emission limit decrease per year from 2026-2032. Caveat: ZEV and PHEV sales are included (though EPA also revised how eMPG is calculated and those numbers will be lower now). In case anyone is actually looking, CARB's criteria emissions requirements stay flat BUT they phase out ZEVs from the fleet average so that you can't, in their words/logic, have dirtier ICE vehicles be "masked" in the fleet average by ZEV sales. Makes sense. If you want to ensure better ICEs. However, the EPA has a very different approach, which is as stated in their proposal, quote:Since the earliest days of the [Clean Air Act], Congress has emphasized that the goal of section 202 is to address air quality hazards from motor vehicles, not to simply reduce emissions from internal combustion engines to the extentfeasible. Technically, this is referring to criteria pollutants but I guess it's the same logic they're using with GHGs. I believe I read somewhere that EPA's numbers are with the assumption of something like 50-60% ZEV sales around 2030~2032. If OEMs fail to meet those sales then they'll have to make up for it in their ICE vehicles. ALSO keep in mind that OEMs can offset their requirements by purchasing and spending credits, and they have been doing that. So you can blame Tesla and Elon for your car's fuel economy stagnation as well.  Look at how good they used to be...  EPA Automotive Trends Report https://www.epa.gov/system/files/documents/2022-12/420r22029.pdf EPA Tier 4 Proposal https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/FR-2023-05-05/pdf/2023-07974.pdf CARB Advanced Clean Cars II https://ww2.arb.ca.gov/sites/default/files/barcu/regact/2022/accii/2acciifro1961.4.pdf
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Jun 6, 2023 18:23
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bandman posted:I’m trying to figure out what in the wide world of sports is going on with the equipment on my truck. H9 could be 3.55ls 8.8 or 9.75, The 9.75 being part of the payload package.
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Jun 6, 2023 19:12
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Dumb question from a large truck owner who just experienced his first big turbo failure. It all happened right down the road from my house and the truck went into limp mode so I was able to get it into the driveway without tearing anything up but now I need to have it towed to the shop I've always used. It is a 4x4 2011 Ford SuperDuty with a long bed and part of my brain says I've heard horror stories about this type of truck tearing up drivetrains and transfer cases being towed on wreckers. Am I overthinking? I'm waiting on a rollback quote but the wrecker quotes are much lower so far, I just don't want to tear anything up towing it from the rear (single axle) wheels.
mischief fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Jun 6, 2023 |
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Jun 6, 2023 19:48
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This is based on nothing, but could you get some casters and put it on a flatbed? Then you can both move it and not destroy the rear end. Anyways I don’t have any practical advice for you, sorry.
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Jun 6, 2023 19:51
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totalnewbie posted:
This was a great read, thank you.
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Jun 6, 2023 19:53
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like you wouldn't believe
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For Honda engines, is the K20A head casting the same between the ~2008 jdm Civic type R (221hp @ 8000rpm, 11.7:1) and ~2008 Honda Accord (153hp @ 6000rpm, 9.8:1) Like, do they just pull one off the shelf, do a mild port on the type R, then install go fast parts designed to operate at 8400rpm, and the accord gets the same casting from the same run but no porting and economy sedan grade parts that max out at 6800rpm https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_K_engine Wikipedia has this note which would imply so but I have no idea. Fake edit: oh right the intake probably matters a lot but in this case we're focusing on the casting of the head itself quote:Additional notes Where I'm going with this is, if I buy a K20A head, as long as I port it and rebuild it with go fast parts the CFM should be about the same? Controlling for intake which I guess matters a lot on these engines for scavenging etc Edit: Hadlock posted:For Honda engines, is the K20A head casting the same between the ~2008 jdm Civic type R (221hp @ 8000rpm, 11.7:1) and ~2008 Honda Accord (153hp @ 6000rpm, 9.8:1) if you take peak HP and divide it by peak HP RPM you get .027 hp/revolution for the type R and .025hp/revolution which would seem to imply they're about equally (ehhh ~94.5%) volumetricly efficient but at different peak rpm probably with different cam and VTEC etc but again that's dependent on the porting and go fast parts not the casting Hadlock fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Jun 6, 2023 |
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Jun 6, 2023 21:21
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mischief posted:Dumb question from a large truck owner who just experienced his first big turbo failure. It all happened right down the road from my house and the truck went into limp mode so I was able to get it into the driveway without tearing anything up but now I need to have it towed to the shop I've always used. It is a 4x4 2011 Ford SuperDuty with a long bed and part of my brain says I've heard horror stories about this type of truck tearing up drivetrains and transfer cases being towed on wreckers. Am I overthinking? I'm waiting on a rollback quote but the wrecker quotes are much lower so far, I just don't want to tear anything up towing it from the rear (single axle) wheels. Just pull the rear driveshaft out while you're waiting.  The manual says not to tow trucks with the electronic shift transfer case with any wheels on the ground. with the manual shift transfer case(stick on the floor) it's fine with the transfer case in neutral and front hubs in free. When you're about to spend $2k on a turbo what's another $50 for a flatbed.
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Jun 6, 2023 22:00
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Powershift posted:The manual says not to tow trucks with the electronic shift transfer case with any wheels on the ground. If the manual says it I would buy a year of AAA and demand they follow the manual. Put in the notes on their chat bot to get a tow "Manual for my truck says it cannot be towed with any wheels on the ground." I did that yesterday and the dude appreciated it because it saved him a trip out. He was able to switch to a flatbed and make one trip.
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Jun 6, 2023 22:41
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I was driving home from work today and I got stuck behind a car. Car was a grey/silver sportscar, two door, dual exhaust (pipe on each side), hourglass-ish body shape, looked new-ish and not-cheap-ish. What was weird about it to me, and I'm sure this is a stupid question and every car guy will know the answer, but the logo in the center of the car's back was one I didn't recognize. It was a squiggle that looked like a soft script signature "S" or "5", I couldn't tell better than that. Didn't look like any car brand logo I recognized and I didn't see any other script on the car, though I only saw it from behind. What on earth was I looking at? I thought it'd just be a quick google image search to find the logo but I've looked and haven't seen it yet. Hieronymous Alloy fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Jun 7, 2023 |
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Jun 7, 2023 02:49
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Suzuki? Seat if you're euro?
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Jun 7, 2023 03:02
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totalnewbie posted:Suzuki? Seat if you're euro? I don't *think* so. The logo / emblem looked like a handwritten S or 5 that had been stylized into a logo, not a font S like the Suzuki or Seat logos. Maybe it was some weird custom poo poo? I'm in America. Hieronymous Alloy fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Jun 7, 2023 |
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Jun 7, 2023 03:05
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Was it a Supra but the upra fell off?
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Jun 7, 2023 03:08
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Hieronymous Alloy posted:I don't *think* so. The logo / emblem looked like a handwritten S or 5 that had been stylized into a logo, not a font S like the Suzuki or Seat logos. Maybe it was some weird custom poo poo? I'm in America. DS?  Seems like someone else saw something like this a long time ago and it ended up being some sort of Opel, but I can't find a logo for it.
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Jun 7, 2023 03:10
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Powershift posted:Was it a Supra but the upra fell off? Honestly the car did look pretty much like that but it didn't say "supra" just the weird S logo where the Toyota symbol would be. Maybe some sort of custom package or limited edition Supra? That would make sense. edit: yeah i think it was a supra with these https://oemplusmods.com/products/front-rear-badge-s-toyota-gr-supra-a90-91 Thanks all! Hieronymous Alloy fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Jun 7, 2023 |
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Jun 7, 2023 03:11
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I was gonna guess a crossfire but with the emblem updated to s for stellantis  Also lol at the thought of someone with a supra where the upra fell off and they're just like yeah sure, let's roll with it. In a supra. edit: I didn't mean this to be "haha you so stupid" but just literally that I thought that was funny. Reading back I'm not sure that was clear. I thought it was funny. That's what I meant. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Jun 7, 2023 |
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Jun 7, 2023 03:19
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There's only one squiggly S badge I care about
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Jun 7, 2023 03:30
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VelociBacon posted:There's only one squiggly S badge I care about I was thinking more like  But similar page
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Jun 7, 2023 06:37
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Back when Jaguar was edgy and obtuse about nazi symbolism   I guess they were named Simon Cars back in the day but the logo ended up being in poor taste by year two of WWII or something
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Jun 7, 2023 06:46
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Hieronymous Alloy posted:I was driving home from work today and I got stuck behind a car. Maybe a long shot, but I know there's a fairly common aftermarket S2000 emblem people use: 
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Jun 7, 2023 06:48
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I just realized my main commuting car is probably showing me the wrong mileage estimate on it's computer. It's a 2007 Yaris and I am running 185/65R15 tires on it for over a decade now, but from factory it had 185/60R15, I am running a slightly bigger tire because it's a lot more common a size and thus a lot cheaper. Since I am running bigger tires and the ECM has no way of knowing that I guess it throws off all kinds of estimates? And I think it means my fuel consumption estimate is probably on the high side?
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Jun 7, 2023 07:25
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The difference is 3.4%. 3400 miles off over 100,000 miles. If your computer is showing 30mpg you're actually doing 31. (although they're never that accurate anyways)
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Jun 7, 2023 07:49
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Powershift posted:The difference is 3.4%. 3400 miles off over 100,000 miles. This also makes me realize that according to my odometer I've done 215,000 miles in this car since I bought it. This also means my odometer is now off by 7310 miles.
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Jun 7, 2023 08:17
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That's a great post. Targeting .999 lambda makes more sense. When I posted about mpg stagnating I had Hondas and Toyotas in mind and forgot about the PT cruisers and Malibu's of the world. I guess they did get drug into the future. When calculating the numbers by year I'm guessing they're looking at cars manufactured or sold that year and letting last year's fall off?
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Jun 7, 2023 12:48
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honda whisperer posted:That's a great post. But if you look at the chart by manufacturer Toyota posted some of the biggest gains in fuel efficiency.
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Jun 7, 2023 13:01
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Hadlock posted:Back when Jaguar was edgy and obtuse about nazi symbolism 
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Jun 7, 2023 13:12
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:But if you look at the chart by manufacturer Toyota posted some of the biggest gains in fuel efficiency. Ok 4 cyl cars lol. Basically what I was paying attention to was a fraction of a sliver of cars.
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Jun 7, 2023 13:43
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Do y’all think the Super Sport badging is referencing Nazis too?
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Jun 7, 2023 14:16
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Do y’all think the Super Sport badging is referencing Nazis too? The skipper was a secret nazzy too. Gilligan knew and that's why he "hosed up" got them stranded and then kept loving up the rescues. SS Minnow.
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Jun 7, 2023 14:53
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Powershift posted:Just pull the rear driveshaft out while you're waiting. Yeah, I finally got recommended a guy who did it for $80 and I'm not worried about him A.) breaking it or B.) causing some kind of rigged up traffic disaster doing it wrong. Now I just have to wait on the estimate. 
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Jun 7, 2023 16:35
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honda whisperer posted:That's a great post. Yes, cars are certified by model year so that's the data that's used.
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Jun 7, 2023 18:32
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Do y’all think the Super Sport badging is referencing Nazis too? I'm not implying it is associated with Nazi poo poo. It's just a hell of a bad look in today's universe, and pretty unfortunate. Like every business named, "ISIS."
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Jun 8, 2023 11:54
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Car Paint Pen Question - I got the appropriate colored paint pen for my car, but there is literally conflicting information from the company about how to use it. One end is clearcoat, with with other being the paint. Do I need to purchase and use primer first? Does the clear coat go on first, or second? I know this is laughable, but the instructions tell me give me literally opposite directions on different pieces of paper. These are some tiny little chips, maybe the biggest being a couple millimeters, if that's relevant.
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Jun 8, 2023 12:07
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Paint first then clearcoat. If it’s rock chips and stuff you don’t need to prime. You can, but after a certain point you’re putting way too much material in a very small place
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Jun 8, 2023 14:08
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Raluek posted:i have nothing particular to add, but lmao that is exactly the right way to test if you have a limited slip With that gearing, the limited slip, and an empty bed, this truck does hellacious burnouts. For a boring, anonymous F150, it’s pretty fun.
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Jun 8, 2023 14:21
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Captain Log posted:I'm not implying it is associated with Nazi poo poo. It's just a hell of a bad look in today's universe, and pretty unfortunate. Like every business named, "ISIS." Just wait till the general populace finds out about KKK turbos.
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Jun 8, 2023 16:13
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Looks like you can get an Eaton M90 for like $500 bucks, or for double the price you can get the M122. The M90 is the one used on the GM3800 so it's probably slightly undersized for feeding 5.3L The M122 looks like it's been fitted on several 5 liter class engines including I guess a Ford 5.4L in the 07-12/14 used this to make 11-13psi boost; I'm thinking if I under drive it at 4psi and run it through a couple feet of 3 or 4" metal intake tubing I can get away without needing a formal intercooler? Same price as a d6-71 supercharger, better packaging, efficiency, cooler air; similar aftermarket support Should I be looking at other superchargers? Seems like the Eaton M series are the go to for modern Frankenstein motor builds
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Jun 8, 2023 20:20
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Paint first then clearcoat. If it’s rock chips and stuff you don’t need to prime. You can, but after a certain point you’re putting way too much material in a very small place Lemme snatch a picture for reference. This is a ten year old car, so I'm not worried about it looking pristine. But I also don't want it to look lovely. There is also a glob of sappy poo poo on the hood that refuses to come off. Any ideas about how to remove it without taking the paint? It's loving attached. Here's the chip, with my fingernail for reference.  Here's the sappy poo poo, that I'm not sure how to get off without causing damage. It's like loving glue. 
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Jun 8, 2023 21:02
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Captain Log posted:Lemme snatch a picture for reference. This is a ten year old car, so I'm not worried about it looking pristine. But I also don't want it to look lovely. I had good luck removing hard sticky sap with hand sanitizer. I think the combination of alcohol content and viscous consistency works well to loosen it up. I rubbed at it for a while and was able to kind of roll it off with a couple of paper towels.
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Jun 8, 2023 21:05
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Captain Log posted:Lemme snatch a picture for reference. This is a ten year old car, so I'm not worried about it looking pristine. But I also don't want it to look lovely. If you can get a primer pen then use that, it’s big enough. Keep in mind you’ll need to clean the surface first so that it can bind. For your mystery substance, I’d try mild solvents like isopropyl alcohol or maybe Goo Gone.
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Jun 8, 2023 21:10
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Dr. Lunchables posted:If you can get a primer pen then use that, it’s big enough. Keep in mind you’ll need to clean the surface first so that it can bind. I've got one of those "Color Rite 2-Tip" pens with "Clear and Color" ends. Should I grab a primer pen, or is that what's in the clear end? This is the most I've ever done with painting anything more in depth than home poo poo.
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Jun 8, 2023 21:22
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