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I'm going to start gemming out some laser lenses, what are the "canon" colors according to the videogames? S=red M=green L= blue ? E: a shameful snipe with a colorful laser
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Jun 11, 2023 01:28
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That’s it afaik. I don’t think ER or Pulse had anything special
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Jun 11, 2023 02:42
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Clan lasers were small = red, medium = green, large = blue, which was mostly established by/for Mechwarrior 2 to make it easier to tell what you were being shot with. Inner sphere lasers were small = ???, medium = yellow, large = red. But yellow sucks to paint and small lasers were usually also red (or yellow) so most people just paint the r/g/b because it's easy. Edit: But the other trick to IS/Clan lasers is that the Clan ones are also described as basically a visual filter over the HUD to keep their pilots from being blinded, while IS lasers are usually described in terms of "the color of the afterimage seared into the viewer's retina" and their beam durations are measured in fractions of a second, so really, whatever color you want to paint them is fine. PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Jun 11, 2023 |
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Jun 11, 2023 02:51
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Mechwarrior 4 was: Inner Sphere Lasers = Red Clan Lasers = Green (maybe the Clan Small Lasers were red as well, I don't remember) X-Pulse Lasers = Blue Bombast Laser (Charge Up Beam that not sure is canon?) = Purple/Red Then you had different size and sound for each beam.
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Jun 11, 2023 03:20
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Paint them whichever color you think goes best with the ‘Mech’s colors, there are plenty of different manufacturers in canon with different ideas about what something like a Large Laser looks like
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Jun 11, 2023 03:55
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Owlbear Camus posted:I'm going to start gemming out some laser lenses, what are the "canon" colors according to the videogames? Similarly, gemming PPCs is even sillier, but you still see people doing it.
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Jun 11, 2023 04:01
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fwiw, the color of the lens has nothing to do with the color of the beam, if you ask actual physics
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Jun 11, 2023 04:42
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HBS Battletech has S=red, M=green, L=blue. Pulse lasers have a pulsating effect. The official art over the years for the TT game has been whatever colour the artist felt like at the time.
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Jun 11, 2023 08:46
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I always go with RGB just bc I was a Mechwarrior 2 kid and I like to maintain narrative consistency in my 1:285 plastic robots 
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Jun 11, 2023 12:52
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If I were super concerned with realism, I'd paint modern and historical armor rather than giant humanoid robots. Jeweled emitters look pretty and add a color pop, plus you can say they're made of whatever exotic material so they can be that way and not break even though exposed to rough and tumble. My flash mans are gonna have pretty nipples.
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Jun 11, 2023 16:37
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My lasers don't even have lenses, DI lasers use fiber optics instead.
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Jun 11, 2023 17:07
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I did R/G/B for my Clan Wolf Beta Galaxy because beige and grey really need all the additional colours to pop. I stuck with Red on my unnamed blue IS mechs because I wanted the contrast. In short - do what looks best because strictly colour coding lasers for magic space robots is dumb. Defiance Industries posted:My lasers don't even have lenses, DI lasers use fiber optics instead. What if the laser was fired through a giant fiber optic cable that was launched at the target with a harpoon?
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Jun 11, 2023 17:18
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Just played an Alpha Strike game with a friend, using a mission from Southern Assault 2 (the tournament ran by Fortress Games/Minis). Didn’t take any mid-match pics, but lined up my side afterwards.  PV: 370/375 We were tied for 5 rounds on strategic points (scored at end of round). My little battle armors held on to the bitter end, after critting an enemy Marauder. My Timberwolf went down pretty hard, but only after landing a kill shot on a Gladiator. One of my VTOLs took a weapon crit early, but used its single remaining shot to land a direct hit on a Dasher. My Axman tried 2 DFAs, and whiffed them both  At end of round 7, all of my forces finally died…but not before stripping the armor off of literally everything he had left (only 3 mechs out of 7). There was a Warhammer II-C, a Marauder, and 1 other left that I can’t recall…but there were no winners here. Only survivors 
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Jun 11, 2023 21:37
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I did a couple more 'mechs. If I posted the Griffin already, I'm sorry. I can't find the post as I am not machine compatible IRL. Griffin 2N:    And an Ironwind Thunderbolt 10M:    I am putting some serious thought into how I might fashion jump plumes from wire, cotton wool and paint because while I enjoyed painting the miniature, it feels like something is missing and really gives off a sense that it is about to take flight to me. It is also extremely poorly balanced and I had to hammer a couple of lead musket balls flat to make some weights that are hidden in the base to keep it from being too top heavy.
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Jun 11, 2023 21:53
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Fearless posted:Insane Minis These are sick, excellent work!!! How did you get the chevrons so crisp??
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Jun 11, 2023 23:29
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rad *edit* the cracked foundations on the basing are super sweet Fearless posted:
sick, I always liked Mechas that held actual weaponry/guns and the Thunderbolt gives off great Armored Core vibes
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Jun 12, 2023 02:18
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Grevlek posted:rad *edit* the cracked foundations on the basing are super sweet Thanks! You can almost see my progression with them from the Timber wolf in the back to the axman in the front. It’s one of GW’s technical paints, and you have to put a nearly-criminal amount of paint on the base (like almost up to the ankles of a mech), but it dries more flat and cracks a bunch along the way. It took me a bunch of mechs to get the hang of, as I’ve been afraid of over-painting minis after I torched one so badly i threw it away 
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Jun 12, 2023 02:27
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Had my first game in a while today. Got utterly thrashed again but at least it wasn't as unpleasant as the last few times, and I at least managed one kill out of four enemy mechs (even if it was a Panther). Better than the other most recent games went. Arquinsiel posted:For a long while in Gamers World Dublin there was a record sheet pinned to the wall of a Crab that got unlucky when a single platoon of LRR armed ISBA fired at it. All four 2 point hits were to the head, one was a TAC, and it took out the cockpit. 
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Jun 12, 2023 03:58
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Fearless posted:I am putting some serious thought into how I might fashion jump plumes from wire, cotton wool and paint because while I enjoyed painting the miniature, it feels like something is missing and really gives off a sense that it is about to take flight to me. It is also extremely poorly balanced and I had to hammer a couple of lead musket balls flat to make some weights that are hidden in the base to keep it from being too top heavy. Icon Of Sin posted:Thanks! You can almost see my progression with them from the Timber wolf in the back to the axman in the front. It’s one of GW’s technical paints, and you have to put a nearly-criminal amount of paint on the base (like almost up to the ankles of a mech), but it dries more flat and cracks a bunch along the way. It took me a bunch of mechs to get the hang of, as I’ve been afraid of over-painting minis after I torched one so badly i threw it away
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Jun 12, 2023 05:33
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Richter Scabies posted:These are sick, excellent work!!! How did you get the chevrons so crisp?? Tamiya tape, thinned paint and a couple of practice models...   ...and lots and lots of swearing. I'll have a pile of new mechs and a few vehicles to paint up when the kickstarter ships (still on the fence about getting a map-scale drop ship, even though it would be really neat to paint up) so I might be mixing up the paint scheme a bit. Definitely for the vehicles anyways... I can't see tank crews in a mercenary unit painting their vehicles quite the same garish colours as the latter-day landesknechts in the big stompy robots. Arquinsiel posted:Minis like that you kind of need to get the feet as far towards the back of the base as possible, even if that results in them being off to one side. It's a huge pain. I have the old metal Panther that's basically just asking to be knocked over due to how it's posed as landing feet-first on someone's cockpit. Yeah I thought about doing that but it made the pose look really weird and I didn't like it so I proceded with the aforementioned "lead musket balls hammered flat and glued into the base" solution which has greatly stabilized the miniature. Also, every joint on the model except for the waist is pinned for strength. It's been a very long time since I last painted a metal model, but I remember the old ways. Fearless fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Jun 12, 2023 |
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Jun 12, 2023 09:49
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Candidate for gooniest question ever but what caliber musket ball did you end up using that fits in the ~0.96“ wide hex base under plastic minis while being less than 1.95mm thick, if that's something you also did?
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Jun 12, 2023 16:54
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Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:Candidate for gooniest question ever but what caliber musket ball did you end up using that fits in the ~0.96“ wide hex base under plastic minis while being less than 1.95mm thick, if that's something you also did? A pair of Hornady .375 round balls that I usually shoot with a .010 cotton patch from a .38 cal Pedersoli Plainsman. I hammered them flat on an anvil, glued 'em in and passed the base over a file a few times to make sure it was nice and flat.
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Jun 12, 2023 17:25
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That is helpful! And definitely more effective than what I was originally thinking of doing which was gluing nickels (or even quarters) under there instead
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Jun 12, 2023 17:45
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You could use fishing sinkers too. Soft, cheap, available.
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Jun 12, 2023 19:24
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Dr. Lunchables posted:You could use fishing sinkers too. Soft, cheap, available. Lead sheeting for roofing and brick work is also an option, and already flat and fairly thin-- all you have to do is cut it to size (this can be done easily with a box cutter or even a pair of shears). It's also pure lead which means it's going to be heavier and more malleable than most alloys. Similarly, if you can find lead pipe, it too is pretty pure, very soft and easy to cut and shape. I would suggest avoiding wheel weights, however. More modern ones are a zinc alloy and the older ones are also adulterated with other metals and quite a bit stiffer than pure lead. This advice is equally valid for both making weights for models and for which available kinds of lead are useful for casting bullets (in my experience, miniatures tend to do better with an alloy of lead, antimony and tin). Fearless fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Jun 12, 2023 |
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Jun 12, 2023 19:47
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There's also a product called "liquid gravity" that is essentially a bunch of little lead BBs.
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Jun 12, 2023 22:07
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Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:That is helpful! And definitely more effective than what I was originally thinking of doing which was gluing nickels (or even quarters) under there instead Nickels used to fit perfectly under the old GW round bases (the ones with no slot). I never even thought about hammering down lead weights for the bases; god knows I had enough tackle boxes full of weights. Hell, I knew someone who made casting molds then, I wish I had thought to have him make a BT hex base mold.
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Jun 13, 2023 00:04
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There are metal BattleTech bases that are sometimes available. They're incredibly heavy though, which leads to trivial chipping damage, and any time I've ended up getting some in a second hand collection or something I end up just working out how to remove them.
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Jun 13, 2023 02:25
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I cannot imagine a worse basing material than metal. Battletech has some of the weirdest legacy issues with its minis. I can't wait for plastic to basically replace the whole of it.
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Jun 13, 2023 05:52
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I've got a pike of old Ral Partha and other vintage wargaming miniatures with metal bases. They're not terrible but they're also smaller than CBT hex bases. Now the 6mm ACW fort, army camp and lead hills and trees that I got in a boxed lot, that's excessive. You can't even say "there's lead in them thar hills" because them thar hills are more lead than hill.
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Jun 13, 2023 09:21
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Fearless posted:I've got a pike of old Ral Partha and other vintage wargaming miniatures with metal bases. They're not terrible but they're also smaller than CBT hex bases. Lead hills is so stupid I want to applaud the person who made them. I’ve seem them before and I was just as baffled then.
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Jun 13, 2023 09:41
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It’s really useful actually because if your opponent brought 46 Savannah Masters to a 10000 BV game, you can cave their head in with the hills
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Jun 13, 2023 11:15
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are prole uprisings with commandeered or jerry-rigged mechs a thing in battletech or is this just a fever dream im having?
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Jun 13, 2023 15:24
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Nebalebadingdong posted:are prole uprisings with commandeered or jerry-rigged mechs a thing in battletech or is this just a fever dream im having? i've only read 2 of the X books in the battletech humble bundle, but by the second book they were strapping machine guns on LoggerMechs and AgroMechs
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Jun 13, 2023 17:04
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Nebalebadingdong posted:are prole uprisings with commandeered or jerry-rigged mechs a thing in battletech or is this just a fever dream im having? There are in fact record sheets in the game for converted industrial 'Mechs or civilian vehicles. Granted, they are almost universally terrible and easily killed due to not having military grade armor, and only the most desperate would pilot one into combat
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Jun 13, 2023 17:36
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Yeah it's absolutely been a thing from the start of the setting. It's just rare that it ends in anything other than disaster for the people doing it, and the values of "prole" and "uprising" may vary from system to system. The one that Grevlek mentions is former Lyran citizens rising up against their new (in the last decade or so) Draconis Combine masters because of "reasons" but there's also one during the war of 3039 where a full regiment worth of industrial mechs get kitted up on some DC planet to fight against the FedCom invasion and... get steamrolled within seconds.
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Jun 13, 2023 18:09
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I’m now imagining a mission where, due to the machinations of a nefarious third party, the proles are rioting and loving poo poo up with jerry-rigged industrialmechs and you need to stop them while trying to kill as few of the pilots as possible. I guess you’d need to kick em in the shins to cripple them without them instantly dying
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Jun 13, 2023 18:18
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I always got the impression battlemechs required special training to pilot. Prole uprising would be like Coupons & Deals trying to launch a B-2.
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Jun 13, 2023 18:25
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Marx Headroom posted:I always got the impression battlemechs required special training to pilot. Prole uprising would be like Coupons & Deals trying to launch a B-2. They do, not to mention the neurohelmets have to be calibrated to the pilots for the gyro to work properly. Without that calibration you're going to end up with a massive headache and have trouble piloting. And there's security codes that if you don't know, your mech is not going to be able to move or fire. The Clans and some IS intelligence agencies have code-slicer devices that can let you hack into a mech, but those are rare (Until the plot demands otherwise).
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Jun 13, 2023 18:41
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Industrialmechs tend not to be as agile, or fast, or survivable, or... basically any of the things that makes a mech scary besides "big". The rules mean that they mostly go down hard the instant the shooting starts.
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Jun 13, 2023 18:44
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