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Safety Dance posted:I took the driver's side wheel off and poked around. No obvious bearing play, and I can spin the wheel by hand. There's a little bit of backlash in the tie rod end or steering rack, and it looks like the brake pads are nearing end of life. Are either of these consistent with an unusual sound while turning right? Ive had this happen with strut mounts being worn, but it sounds like yours is related to the tie rod ends. Theyre wear items, so replacement isnt out of the question.
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Jun 18, 2023 19:57
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Safety Dance posted:I took the driver's side wheel off and poked around. No obvious bearing play, and I can spin the wheel by hand. There's a little bit of backlash in the tie rod end or steering rack¹, and it looks like the brake pads are nearing end of life. Are either of these consistent with an unusual sound while turning right? Specifically for the brake question, check the pad wear against the opposite side. It's not always different (depends on how long it's been dragging) but if it's quite different that tells you there's some drag. I wouldn't specifically think you need a subaru specialist for taking a look at what you have going on, this is all pretty common stuff and Subaru doesn't do anything drastically different in their front end design that I'm aware of.
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Jun 18, 2023 20:45
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Anyone have an Android auto compatible music player they like? I'm looking for something that will play files stored on my phone, and ideally sort them by folders instead of by tags/albums etc. If not any recommendations on the best thread to ask?
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Jun 18, 2023 23:50
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My brother has an '04 Toyota Matrix, it's a great car that's treated him well, but the catalytic converter is plugged up (P0420 intermittently, noticably slow and you can hear it) likely due to its oil consumption (~2 quarts every 4k mile oil change, not out of the ordinary at 200k miles if I'm not mistaken). Would it be stupid to replace the cat without addressing the oil burn problem? And if it comes to it, any advice on figuring out whether a crate, junkyard or rebuilt engine makes the most sense/how to best get quotes for that kind of major work?
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Jun 19, 2023 22:13
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2 quarts over 4000 miles seems pretty reasonable if you ask me. I think my (newer, '09 Corolla) is worse than that.
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Jun 19, 2023 22:15
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I have a 2020 Toyota Corolla hybrid. It does not have flex fuel modification, it is only rated for E10. On Sunday, I had a quarter tank of E10. I accidentally added a 3/4 tank of E85. How much did I gently caress up? Can I get away with just topping with unleaded gas, or should I have the tank pumped and the lines flushed? Its not like adding diesel, it still runs without making noises, no engine warning lights come on. I drove for around 50 miles on Sunday on this because I had things to do. Perhaps I should do the latter, I normally dont drive around enough to bring down the tank fast enough. And having such a high level of ethanol solvent in the tank and lines is probably not good.
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Jun 19, 2023 22:25
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DildenAnders posted:My brother has an '04 Toyota Matrix, it's a great car that's treated him well, but the catalytic converter is plugged up (P0420 intermittently, noticably slow and you can hear it) likely due to its oil consumption (~2 quarts every 4k mile oil change, not out of the ordinary at 200k miles if I'm not mistaken). Would it be stupid to replace the cat without addressing the oil burn problem? And if it comes to it, any advice on figuring out whether a crate, junkyard or rebuilt engine makes the most sense/how to best get quotes for that kind of major work? It will just happen again, definitely fix it. I'd look for a used Japanese engine. They get shipped here with very low miles, and for non performance stuff are very cheap.
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Jun 19, 2023 22:29
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Ja, search 'JDM engines.' I got a barely-used 4-cylinder engine for my son's '01 Accord at the local depository near Philadelphia. Paid $350 for it. Three years on, it's fine.
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Jun 20, 2023 00:56
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PainterofCrap posted:Ja, search 'JDM engines.' I got a barely-used 4-cylinder engine for my son's '01 Accord at the local depository near Philadelphia. Paid $350 for it. Three years on, it's fine. That sounds great, any problems installing it (like with emissions or anything like that)?
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Jun 20, 2023 03:09
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DildenAnders posted:That sounds great, any problems installing it (like with emissions or anything like that)? Nothough we had to fool the ECU into thinking it was a greenhead (LEV) engine by re-using all of the peripherals/sensors from the power plant it replaced - which actually worked. The only other thing was swapping the clutch & throttle cable anchor points since the replacement engine was set-up for a RHD chassis. Oh and that the crank flywheel was some weird diameter - we had the engine in already & were going nuts because the correct belts were too small. Pulling the flywheel with the engine in was going to be hideously difficult, so we decided to fit belts by trial & error until we found two that worked. I kept the belt cards so my son has the numbers to order replacements. I borescoped it after purchase. Cylinders still had honing crosshatching and the piston heads were clean enough to eat off of. Couldnt have had 20,000 - well-cared-for miles on it. I am mystified as to how a 21-year-old engine could be as clean and un-worn, inside and out, as this one was - like it came out of a museum. Its nuts. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Jun 20, 2023 |
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Jun 20, 2023 03:39
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PainterofCrap posted:No…though we had to fool the ECU into thinking it was a ‘greenhead’ (LEV) engine by re-using all of the peripherals/sensors from the power plant it replaced - which actually worked. The only other thing was swapping the clutch & throttle cable anchor points since the replacement engine was set-up for a RHD chassis. (and unfortunately the shop I trust told me he's too old to be lugging engines out of cars so we'd need to find a trustworthy shop too.)
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Jun 20, 2023 13:16
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DildenAnders posted:I forgot to say, me ane my brother are both amateur wrenchers. We don't really have the skills, time or space to do this ourselves, we'd have a shop take care of whatever we end up deciding. 2 quarts over 4000 miles doesn't seem that bad to me. I'd probably change the cat and deal with the oil burning. Changing the oil a bit more frequently will probably help with the problem not getting worse.
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Jun 20, 2023 14:53
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DildenAnders posted:My brother has an '04 Toyota Matrix, it's a great car that's treated him well, but the catalytic converter is plugged up (P0420 intermittently, noticably slow and you can hear it) likely due to its oil consumption (~2 quarts every 4k mile oil change, not out of the ordinary at 200k miles if I'm not mistaken). Would it be stupid to replace the cat without addressing the oil burn problem? And if it comes to it, any advice on figuring out whether a crate, junkyard or rebuilt engine makes the most sense/how to best get quotes for that kind of major work? That's not a bad amount of oil consumption (not GREAT, our 05 Matrix uses about a half quart in 5k), but it's not bad at all for the mileage. Unless you're in a state that follows CARB, have a random exhaust shop slap a generic cat on (you might even be able to just order one and take it to a shop to be cut/welded), wait for the odometer to get stuck at 299,999, drive it some more. Might consider a high mileage synthetic oil, it may help with consumption. They really run forever as long as you keep oil and coolant in them. The timing cover and valve cover are both prone to leaking, and the plastic cover on the engine will hide the valve cover sins. I've done the valve cover gasket (it's less than an hour job), I'm not doing the timing cover gasket since it's an engine-out job (and not leaking bad enough to leave anything on the ground). You're also going to be replacing the intake manifold gasket at some point if you haven't already. You'll notice it idling a little higher than usual, eventually get a lean code. It's a 45 minute job at most as long as you don't disconnect the coolant lines from the throttle body. It's about 1/10th of a level more difficult than the valve cover gasket. Elden Lord Godfrey posted:I have a 2020 Toyota Corolla hybrid. It does not have flex fuel modification, it is only rated for E10. On Sunday, I had a quarter tank of E10. I accidentally added a 3/4 tank of E85. You're probably fine. The car would probably be running like poo poo by now if it was going to be an issue. Top it off with ethanol free gas if it's available in your area and continue to do so anytime you need gas; otherwise just keep topping it off with regular. You'll have somewhat worse MPG and a little less power until you burn through it. And it's rated up to E15.
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Jun 20, 2023 16:38
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randomidiot posted:Worn synchro would make it crunch going into gear, or sometimes pop out of that gear. Ok, cool. I'll check it out soon, thanks. IOwnCalculus posted:Does it happen in first as well or literally just second? I once drove a loaner Corsica that had been beaten within an inch of its life that had completely shagged motor mounts. In first and second and maybe even third, if you snapped the throttle shut the engine would flop against the chassis and vibrate the whole car. Yeah, only ever in 2nd gear. The motor mounts were toast but it has new ones now.
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Jun 20, 2023 18:10
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Hiyo, I have a 2014 Toyota Camry and zero technical car knowledge. The battery died and I had to have AAA come jump it. The technician showed me his little battery reader thing and said everything was good except for the voltage. It was a bit over 13, and he said that was unusually high and that the battery might die all together in a couple of months. I know AAA will sell battery replacements on the spot (they pre-quoted me a price of $188), but he wasn't pushing me to do that and said I'd be fine for a while. My question is if a car-smart person could please elaborate on why this is a problem and if it's true that the battery is close to permanent death and should be replaced sooner than later!
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Jun 20, 2023 18:15
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Politely Afraid! posted:Hiyo, I have a 2014 Toyota Camry and zero technical car knowledge. The battery died and I had to have AAA come jump it. The technician showed me his little battery reader thing and said everything was good except for the voltage. It was a bit over 13, and he said that was unusually high and that the battery might die all together in a couple of months. I know AAA will sell battery replacements on the spot (they pre-quoted me a price of $188), but he wasn't pushing me to do that and said I'd be fine for a while. Was the car running when the AAA tech checked the battery voltage? If yes, 13 volts is a little low, but that indicates a problem with your alternator. If the car was off, 13 volts might just a bit of a surface charge that will go away over time. It doesn't strike me as meaning the battery is nearing end of life. Do you know when the battery was last replaced? Oftentimes there's a date sticker on the battery. If it's more than ~5 years, I'd start thinking about replacing it regardless. Check an auto parts store, Costco, Walmart, whatever for prices, but $188 is in the right ballpark.
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Jun 20, 2023 18:26
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Politely Afraid! posted:Hiyo, I have a 2014 Toyota Camry and zero technical car knowledge. The battery died and I had to have AAA come jump it. The technician showed me his little battery reader thing and said everything was good except for the voltage. It was a bit over 13, and he said that was unusually high and that the battery might die all together in a couple of months. I know AAA will sell battery replacements on the spot (they pre-quoted me a price of $188), but he wasn't pushing me to do that and said I'd be fine for a while. How old is the battery and how hot is it where you are? If it's more than 4 years I'd replace it without a second thought. Voltage reading high can indicate that the battery has been deep discharged, which lead batteries hate. If the battery is bad you'll just get stranded again in the near future.
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Jun 20, 2023 18:32
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Safety Dance posted:Was the car running when the AAA tech checked the battery voltage? If yes, 13 volts is a little low, but that indicates a problem with your alternator. If the car was off, 13 volts might just a bit of a surface charge that will go away over time. It doesn't strike me as meaning the battery is nearing end of life. Huh, I wonder why the tech said 13v was unusually high, if that's actually low. He showed me the reader after I had turned the car off, but I didn't think to ask if what he was showing me was from when it was on or when it was off. As for when the battery was last replaced, it's probably hitting the 5 year mark by now (I don't think longer, though), so I'll put that on the to-do list. Thanks for your help!
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Jun 20, 2023 18:37
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Twerk from Home posted:How old is the battery and how hot is it where you are? If it's more than 4 years I'd replace it without a second thought. I think the battery is 4-5 years old, so it sounds like it's time for a fresh one. I live in the Greater Boston Area so it can get very hot and humid in the summer, but otherwise the temperatures here are mild.
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Jun 20, 2023 18:39
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Heat will kill a battery as fast as cold.
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Jun 20, 2023 19:32
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DildenAnders posted:My brother has an '04 Toyota Matrix, it's a great car that's treated him well, but the catalytic converter is plugged up (P0420 intermittently, noticably slow and you can hear it) likely due to its oil consumption (~2 quarts every 4k mile oil change, not out of the ordinary at 200k miles if I'm not mistaken). Would it be stupid to replace the cat without addressing the oil burn problem? And if it comes to it, any advice on figuring out whether a crate, junkyard or rebuilt engine makes the most sense/how to best get quotes for that kind of major work? Before you start looking at new engines, check the PCV valve to see if it's sticking, and if you aren't sure it's good just replace it because it's a $5-10 part. That took my 220k mile Impreza engine from burning somewhere around that much oil to not burning any visible amount over the course of an oil change. In my case what made me realize it was happening was noticing a ton of fouling in cylinder 1 but I have no idea if there's a particular cylinder the oil ends up spitting into for the 1zz those have in them.
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Jun 21, 2023 22:01
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Does this dent look like something I could improve with one of those cheap rear end Amazon dent pullers? Its my girlfriends car, she was thinking it would cost a fortune to fix and was just going to leave it but I randomly saw one on Amazon and wondered if it was worth potentially wasting $20 on giving it a shot 
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Jun 22, 2023 01:17
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Thats got a crease in it. You can try but success is doubtful.
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Jun 22, 2023 01:18
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No. Not unless you are very, very skilled. Otherwise, dont touch it. Call a paintless dent removal company. They can straighten it out for under a grand.
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Jun 22, 2023 02:04
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Ok cool thanks guys! Good to know 
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Jun 22, 2023 02:06
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Snowy posted:Does this dent look like something I could improve with one of those cheap rear end Amazon dent pullers? I got a crease like that out of my door, but I spent days on that, though total work time was maybe an hour or two. Still not a perfect result but you can't see it unless you get close, working on some new tools (slappers) to try and give it another go but I think the real issue is metal stretching. Was a good link earlier in this thread related to my questions about sheet metal dent repair. Old school stuff. But I guess everybody is not like me in aggressively wanting to do everything themselves. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Jun 22, 2023 |
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Jun 22, 2023 07:22
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A good PDR guy is basically a wizard and worth every penny
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Jun 22, 2023 12:35
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DildenAnders posted:That sounds great, any problems installing it (like with emissions or anything like that)? You run into some issues in general with JDM motors around the RHD thing as mentioned - this can be a huge deal if there straight up isn't room for your steering column. It's the kind of thing you want to see idiots online doing on forums before ordering a JDM motor. Even on stuff like SR20DET swaps or RB swaps in Nissans, you run into issues with heater hoses and poo poo like that. It's absolutely do-able and not a huge pain most times but most shops that can't fabricate stuff will be completely flummoxed.
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Jun 22, 2023 13:07
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Snowy posted:Does this dent look like something I could improve with one of those cheap rear end Amazon dent pullers? Thats a hard hit dent including a crease as noted. Highly doubt anything but PDR or replacement/respray will make these panels pass the 5 foot test.
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Jun 22, 2023 16:17
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Another recommendation for a GOOD PDR person. They should be upfront about how well they can fix it. Some of these PDR guys are straight magicians
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Jun 22, 2023 17:32
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luminalflux posted:2018 Subaru Crosstrek (CVT) KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:could also be a tire problem, which i would be inclined to try to rule out first as its cheaper and easier to do so - i'd check date codes and tread wear and wear pattern to rule that out first. maybe get the tires rotated as that's quick to do. So I was an idiot and didn't realize this was under powertrain warranty still. Indie shop looked at it and said "didn't sound like your typical subaru wheel bearing sound", but found a TSB for replacing the rear end since apparently Subaru used gear oil that was too thin originally. Hustled over to the dealership who took a look at it and was like "nah, diff is fine but yeah it 100% is your wheel bearing". Replaced under warranty thankfully.
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Jun 22, 2023 22:26
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2012 Acura TL, ~115k miles. Started hearing a humming noise above 40 mph, highway speeds have a slight steering wheel vibration. Recently had the tires rotated and it didnt change anything with the noise. The tires are old but have okay tread since their use was cut down significantly starting in 2020. At this point do I ask for a bearing check when I take it in tomorrow? Is there anything else it could be? The dealership did an annual inspection (when the tires were rotated) and didnt flag any belts or anything. I should have mentioned the noise then but such is life.
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Jun 23, 2023 02:20
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Democratic Pirate posted:2012 Acura TL, ~115k miles. Started hearing a humming noise above 40 mph, highway speeds have a slight steering wheel vibration. Yes and nothing you'd need to worry about if they're already checking it. 90?% of the time your symptoms will result in a diagnosis of wheel bearings, tires, wheel damage, or alignment. I would get an alignment check if you have not had one during regular maintenance in some timeframe (typically once per couple or few years for many drivers). "Annual inspection" is dealership speak for heavily inflated book fee (hope you are not paying more than 300 USD or so for this inspection time) that takes them a few mins of looking around (I'm not a mechanic, due respect to mechanics and techs not knocking anything) . It most likely does not include an alignment check beyond visually. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Jun 23, 2023 |
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Jun 23, 2023 02:31
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That helps, thanks. I guess it wasnt an annual inspection but a collection of discounted oil change + rotation + etc. services. They did do an alignment check with measurements and fixed a front tire though.
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Jun 23, 2023 02:44
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Democratic Pirate posted:That helps, thanks. I guess it wasnt an annual inspection but a collection of discounted oil change + rotation + etc. services. They did do an alignment check with measurements and fixed a front tire though. Nice that makes sense and can probably cross that off the list then unless there was subsequent damage or wear of a suspension component that changed alignment later, or non-alignment related suspension part is bad.
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Jun 23, 2023 03:15
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Democratic Pirate posted:That helps, thanks. I guess it wasn’t an annual inspection but a collection of “discounted” oil change + rotation + etc. services. They did do an alignment check with measurements and fixed a front tire though. They may not have actually looked in much detail at anything if that's the situation, they do the required work and glance at a few easy places in the car. If you have a wheel bearing that's bad enough you can feel it in the steering wheel you should take it to a shop that can diagnose it imo. e: it wouldn't be a belt because that isn't correlated with the speed of the vehicle. Its a FWD car so I would want to know my transmission is fine etc. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Jun 23, 2023 |
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Jun 23, 2023 06:01
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VelociBacon posted:They may not have actually looked in much detail at anything if that's the situation, they do the required work and glance at a few easy places in the car. If you have a wheel bearing that's bad enough you can feel it in the steering wheel you should take it to a shop that can diagnose it imo. While you may be right and everything you said is right, to be goony and pedantic it probably depends on exactly what type of "service package" was bought by OP and which things it includes. I don't think all (automaker affiliated) dealership service departments will do a thorough inspection on a lift with a certified mechanic for just oil change + rotation depending on how busy they are or what they usually offer. I mean whoever is doing it while under the car on a lift is hopefully doing the wheel shake test but no idea if it would be done without a customer complaint, probably not at bad shops. If they are a shop big enough to have running laser machines to do alignment checks they should be able to diagnose and fix whatever broke recently fine, if it wasn't broken or if they didn't find it last time for some reason. As long as they aren't clearly incompetent for other reasons. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Jun 23, 2023 |
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Jun 23, 2023 06:26
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Had a 3rd party shop check it out. Wheel bearings and everything looked fine, my tires are just old. Thats the third place to say as much (discount for a flat fix, dealership, 3rd party dude) so Ive got a new set ordered. Going to be better about rotations this time.
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Jun 23, 2023 22:33
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Democratic Pirate posted:Had a 3rd party shop check it out. Wheel bearings and everything looked fine, my tires are just old. I've been super bad about tire rotations and it's never caused an audible sound like that and I would never ever expect to feel it in the wheel. Maybe if you had the worst possible run flat tires or something but I still feel like it can't be the tires. You've rotated the fronts to the rears already so why would you still be feeling it in the wheel?
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Jun 23, 2023 22:47
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VelociBacon posted:I've been super bad about tire rotations and it's never caused an audible sound like that and I would never ever expect to feel it in the wheel. Maybe if you had the worst possible run flat tires or something but I still feel like it can't be the tires. You've rotated the fronts to the rears already so why would you still be feeling it in the wheel? Ill pay close attention to it, I may have been exaggerating the wheel vibrations after webMDing myself on potential car issues. It was nothing that moved my hands or anything. The mechanic test drove the car today and said the noise sounded like worn tires. He rotated the tires again and the sound was reduced on the way home. The tires are a hair short of 6 years old and 60k miles (thanks COVID) and starting to show some dry rot signs, so their time is up anyway.
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Jun 24, 2023 01:42
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