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Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Verisimilidude posted:

Need some help. Trying to do some NMM but I can't wrap my head around the shape of this object. Anyone have suggestions on how to make this NMM work?



edit:

got too excited so I just redid it, following a painted farseer I found.



Hate to say this, I think the first one reads more clearly as metal. It took me a second to figure out it wasn't just metallic paint and lighting. The update still is quite good, but doesn't seem to fool the eye as well.

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Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
The 2nd one seems clearly better as metal, imo. But hey, both good then lol.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

My laptop was in power saver mod, haha. WIth my monitor turned up I can see the blend is much smoother in the second one, and the highlights aren't as extreme. I'm still partial to the first, but the second one has a much more natural look.

Snowman_McK
Jan 31, 2010
I bit the bullet, grabbed the Leviathan box and got started on the terminators, a unit I've loved ever since I saw them in my first issue of White Dwarf way back in 1995. Wasn't hugely happy with how the storm bolters look but I've learned a lot. It's not up to the thread's usual standard, but it's the first thing I've painted in twenty years and I'd like to share.



If anyone has any tips on painting Dreadnoughts, specifically ones with black armour and don't include edge highlighting or dry brushing, I'd love to hear them. I thought I'd do the Ballistus next.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Snowman_McK posted:

I bit the bullet, grabbed the Leviathan box and got started on the terminators, a unit I've loved ever since I saw them in my first issue of White Dwarf way back in 1995. Wasn't hugely happy with how the storm bolters look but I've learned a lot. It's not up to the thread's usual standard, but it's the first thing I've painted in twenty years and I'd like to share.



If anyone has any tips on painting Dreadnoughts, specifically ones with black armour and don't include edge highlighting or dry brushing, I'd love to hear them. I thought I'd do the Ballistus next.

Looking great, could you retake the pic with the light source in front of the models instead of behind casting the shadow?

Thin your paint so when you're base coating the dreadnought over the large armor panels you minimize brush strokes.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

I'm trying to use contrast paints more to get some of these tyranids done alongside my space marines. What sort of brush do people use when they want to apply a contrast or wash in really small areas?

It seems like a regular brush doesn't hold enough paint, do you use a larger brush with a very fine point?

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Verisimilidude posted:

Need some help. Trying to do some NMM but I can't wrap my head around the shape of this object. Anyone have suggestions on how to make this NMM work?



edit:

got too excited so I just redid it, following a painted farseer I found.



Honestly both kinda rock.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Verisimilidude posted:

Need some help. Trying to do some NMM but I can't wrap my head around the shape of this object. Anyone have suggestions on how to make this NMM work?



edit:

got too excited so I just redid it, following a painted farseer I found.



It's definitely reads as metal, so success!

All I've got is a couple of nitpicks to take it to the next level. The prongs on the right-hand side need a bit of work. I see what you're going for, but you need at least one highlight to make it pop. Same with the triangle and wings - they need at least one more highlight at the top points. Also, edge highlighting is great for NMM, as edges tend to catch light regardless of where they are and some edge highlighting will help sell the effect even more.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Radiation Cow posted:

It's definitely reads as metal, so success!

All I've got is a couple of nitpicks to take it to the next level. The prongs on the right-hand side need a bit of work. I see what you're going for, but you need at least one highlight to make it pop. Same with the triangle and wings - they need at least one more highlight at the top points. Also, edge highlighting is great for NMM, as edges tend to catch light regardless of where they are and some edge highlighting will help sell the effect even more.

Got it. I'll play around with it a bit!

Here's where he stands currently. I need to go back and work on the metals a bit more, but I think he's starting to come together.

Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Jun 26, 2023

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Absolutely loving that red.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I need to figure out how people are doing this hard white or hard black background. maybe i need a different background material

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



GreenBuckanneer posted:

I need to figure out how people are doing this hard white or hard black background. maybe i need a different background material

Hard white I haven't messed with, hard black is just lighting your miniature from the front (versus from the top or back) and then placing your black background far enough behind it so that with your mini properly lit, so not overexposed, the background becomes a very uniform pure black.

I am far from an expert but this was my setup the other day:



edit:
the Avatar pics I posted ITT and actually I didn't quite nail the settings, but here is an out of focus Myari from before my lens broke and I haven't taken new pics yet, so all that to say some of this is just practice and playing with settings.

tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Jun 26, 2023

Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001

Radiation Cow posted:

Absolutely loving that red.

Seriously, your reds are always incredible Verisimilidude.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Finished this guy tonight! Really happy with how he came out.




Beffer
Sep 25, 2007
Stellar work. I love how the colours are glowing.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Incredibly well done

Snowman_McK
Jan 31, 2010
That's a gorgeous red, and I love the way his amulets and necklaces really seem to be hanging off him, really seem separate. I know that's a weird compliment, but it's an effect I've failed to achieve and so am very aware and complimentary of.

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."



Finished the Leviathan captain until I pick some Tyranid colours. First model with my chapter logo on, but gently caress freehanding that again.

I changed how I did the sword, white /hot at the edges instead of dark/cold. Think I like this better but the shape is different from the previous ones.

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."
Doubleposting because I'm really pleased with how this guy is turning out;



Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
I think this guy came out OK, maybe the best eye that I've ever painted. Probably going to be ran as Logan Grimnar



Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Any recommendations for a little box to hold my Citadel paints? I guess being able to hold other hobby supplies is nice too, I don't mind buying two boxes.

Space Friend
Dec 23, 2011

A few months ago I made the decision to make my first wh40k army of aeldari Metroid themed. Ok maybe not the most original idea, but I've been having fun with the execution.

Grim dark? Passe. 'Eavy metal? Over-hyped marketing gimmick. Hyper saturated explosions of color that put 90s EGM advertisements to shame? Now we're getting somewhere.




The Autarch is my latest abomination effort. The only thing I'm not completely sold on is the headdress colors. I'm open to suggestions.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Replace the white with black and I think it'll stand out more

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Chemmy posted:

Any recommendations for a little box to hold my Citadel paints? I guess being able to hold other hobby supplies is nice too, I don't mind buying two boxes.

Repurpose a holiday cookie tin. They're maybe a buck or two out of season, and they'll neatly hold paints of all sizes under 20ml.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



I've used the same pencil sized exacto tool for probably 20 years now (well with a big gap). Maybe I scrape mold lines more now, maybe I'm getting old and weak, but I'm interested in getting a knife/tool thing that is beefier in the hand to hopefully have my hand feel more comfortable with long sessions. Any recommendations?

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

tangy yet delightful posted:

I've used the same pencil sized exacto tool for probably 20 years now (well with a big gap). Maybe I scrape mold lines more now, maybe I'm getting old and weak, but I'm interested in getting a knife/tool thing that is beefier in the hand to hopefully have my hand feel more comfortable with long sessions. Any recommendations?

You could go with the official GW moldline removal tool. A bit beefier in the hand, although very pricey for a tool that can't really get into fine details like a blade can. There are also loads of craft knife handles on Amazon that are larger than the typical Xacto style handle. Barbatos Rex also did a run down of several knife handle styles on his channel, something there might work.

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-CA/citadel-tools-mouldline-remover-2022
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=craft+knife+handle

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzc7Wc_-Haw

Nazzadan
Jun 22, 2016



Knocked out a Helbrute in a couple painting sessions, happy with how he came out considering he's my first Not A Guy In Power Armor model. The print my buddy gave me was missing the shin armor and the chest guns, but I think it looks cool enough to run as-is. It was nice to work with my main colors again after painting other legions for a while.


Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

tangy yet delightful posted:

I've used the same pencil sized exacto tool for probably 20 years now (well with a big gap). Maybe I scrape mold lines more now, maybe I'm getting old and weak, but I'm interested in getting a knife/tool thing that is beefier in the hand to hopefully have my hand feel more comfortable with long sessions. Any recommendations?

Papercrafters also use xacto knives and tend to run older. There are a bunch of larger or padded xacto handles aimed at that audience, and they use the same standardized blades. (There are a bunch of blades aimed specifically at them that have some useful applications in WH too, like sickle blades for mold line scraping.)

You can also use Tamiya extra thin cement to obliterate mold lines. It's pretty easy, but don't go too heavy, since anything but a thin layer can cause unintentional damage. If a mold line runs over an important detail, using extra thin usually does less damage than trying to shave them off. (Once you get the hang of this, you can use extra thin to create melt damage or obliterate details intentionally, but this is tricky.) Spreading a lot of extra thin around in places that aren't joins means a ton of fumes, but limonene extra thin also works and actually smells nice. (The fumes are safe but wash it off skin and don't get it in eyes/nose/mouth/wounds, of course.) Just make sure not to touch those places before it dries.

Big warning though: this trick absolutely does not work with plastic cement that isn't extra thin (meaning it has no binder). And, obviously, it doesn't work on metal or resin.

Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Jun 28, 2023

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
Speaking of which, a while back I found an incredible guide to using plastic cement, both to make bonds but also a bunch of secondary applications. And, for once, it's not a gd video.

For these guides, GW plastic models and bases are styrene (except for clear plastic canopies), but third-party bases may not be, even if they're plastic.


This is on the site of some store I've never heard of, but people said they're reputable if you live in Canada. Either way, the guides are very useful.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

You could go with the official GW moldline removal tool. A bit beefier in the hand, although very pricey for a tool that can't really get into fine details like a blade can. There are also loads of craft knife handles on Amazon that are larger than the typical Xacto style handle. Barbatos Rex also did a run down of several knife handle styles on his channel, something there might work.

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-CA/citadel-tools-mouldline-remover-2022
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=craft+knife+handle

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzc7Wc_-Haw

The GW tool has the one advantage of a curved scraping surface so if you assemble lots of curved models (Eldar) using that edge to do the scraping will deform the surface less than a knife.

A knife is slightly faster and more concenient since it's usually already in your hand but if you have butter fingers you can more easily gouge your model with it as well.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Z the IVth posted:

The GW tool has the one advantage of a curved scraping surface so if you assemble lots of curved models (Eldar) using that edge to do the scraping will deform the surface less than a knife.

You can get concave curved Xacto blades, too. Xacto has their own, #28, and there are lots of ubiquitous clones of that, but other manufacturers make other shapes as well. The nice thing about using a sickle blade is that it can be replaced, unlike the mold line remover's edge.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
Finally breaking out the airbrush I picked up a while back at one of the Badger birthday sales. I went to set it up but I’m missing the male end of the quick disconnect. Hopefully I have the right piece coming today and then I can start to learn. Very excited! I’m sure I’ll have all sorts of questions for you folks.

Anti-Tachyon
Oct 25, 2010
Only took about 2 years and a severe back injury, but since the new Seraphon stuff just came out I figured I should finally finish these two:





Still can't manage to take good pictures with my phone but I'm fairly proud of how they both came out. Can't be bothered to do the rims atm

DAD LOST MY IPOD
Feb 3, 2012

Fats Dominar is on the case


Turns out having a baby at home is great for painting productivity.





















tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Thanks for the knife/tool suggestions, I'll check out that video and explore from there.

Ghosts!
Jan 6, 2004
I just got a Tamiya Craft Tool Series No.98 Modeler's Knife PRO Plastic Model Tool 74098 to replace my old standard xacto knife and it might be a good option. It has a slightly larger handle that is easier to hold, and a rubber non-slip section near the blade. Most importantly for me, it holds the blade way more securely than my old one. I didn't like the dull edge of the blades that came with it for removing mold lines, but you can just replace them. The xacto "x-life" #11 blades are great for holding an edge on either the sharpened or dull side, which helps with making the removal process somewhat less painful.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
the #11 blades are just the standard xacto blade. #11-M is nice if you use the pointed tip frequently, since it's less prone to the tip breaking off due to a slightly different shape.

#2 is just #11 but larger. the rest of the standard blades (except #28, the sickle blade i mentioned) don't seem too useful to me, but there are plenty of useful tools for xacto handles that aren't razor blades. i'm fond of razor saws and files.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

tangy yet delightful posted:

I've used the same pencil sized exacto tool for probably 20 years now (well with a big gap). Maybe I scrape mold lines more now, maybe I'm getting old and weak, but I'm interested in getting a knife/tool thing that is beefier in the hand to hopefully have my hand feel more comfortable with long sessions. Any recommendations?

Treat yourself and get the best utility knife ever made. I've been using the exact same one for over 20 years and it's just as good as the day I got it.

https://www.staples.com/Stanley-Bos...HEaAqRvEALw_wcB

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
a scalpel can do a lot of hobby tasks a utility knife can't, and the reverse is very rarely true. especially if you spend a significant amount of time modeling, above and beyond assembling and painting. i can't even imagine trying to cut a clean edge in putty with a boxcutter, or clean up nubs left on a fixer-upper second hand model.

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Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
I bought a #11 scalpel with 1,000 blades for like $39.99 and I am set for life.

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