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I need quick ideas for making a game of dominoes with my five-year-old. I've already cut a bunch of 5x20x40mm pieces out of some hardwood deck planks, we just need a way to add the eyes/dots. It doesn't have to be nice or perfect. We only have hand tools, no drill press regrettably.
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Jun 28, 2023 11:54
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| # ? May 17, 2024 00:55 |
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Make six tiny jigs that will help you locate a drill.
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Jun 28, 2023 14:08
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Do you have a hand reamer or similar?
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Jun 28, 2023 14:20
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Nail set, or similarly shaped chuck of metal, and a hammer?
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Jun 28, 2023 14:46
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Yeah, tap a nail once with a hammer and you'll make a divot in the wood. That's pretty simple. Or just use a marker.
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Jun 28, 2023 14:48
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https://www.maptown.com/Stickers_Small_Dots_pack_of_600_p/smalldots.htm
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Jun 28, 2023 14:50
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deimos posted:Make six tiny jigs that will help you locate a drill. I think you can probably fit every domino dot position on a single jig and then just use a nail set or a center punch (one of the spring loaded ones would make quick work of it I imagine) to create the detents.
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Jun 28, 2023 15:25
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Bob Mundon posted:Good point, after sleeping on it came to the same conclusion that this wouldn't resist racking force very much, and if screws willow out even with a back. This is for my wife's classroom and seems like she draws the short straw and moves every year. I'm now thinking maybe going with 3 smaller 4 foot wide units and just placing them together. Not as clean, but I guess flexibility counts for something (could always make them stackable for future use too, they are only like 30in tall for below the white board). Since these would each be small enough to move on their own can use glue and really lock everything down. Even a 4' span can be quite a bit of weight per shelf. Give a consider to (4) 3' units. If it needs to break down, that may be a bit more convenient. You can get bed frame hooks to attach them if you're not fussed about lining those up. Did that with a modular showroom once.
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Jun 28, 2023 15:33
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Mr. Mambold posted:Even a 4' span can be quite a bit of weight per shelf. Give a consider to (4) 3' units. If it needs to break down, that may be a bit more convenient. You can get bed frame hooks to attach them if you're not fussed about lining those up. Did that with a modular showroom once. Awesome, was trying to figure out some way to index them together.
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Jun 28, 2023 17:08
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Wallet posted:I think you can probably fit every domino dot position on a single jig and then just use a nail set or a center punch (one of the spring loaded ones would make quick work of it I imagine) to create the detents. You can definitely do less than 6, but usually the layouts look better if you use a set of different ones, for example 1, 2, 3 and 5 can use the same, maybe even 4, but 6 you'd want to do slightly different depending on the size of the domino. Having different ones is also better for workflow, prevents accidentally making more divots than necessary. For something one off like this maybe do one jig and progressively drill more holes, 2, 3, 5, <fill the middle hole to prevent derps>, 4, 6. That way the workflow is always "do all the holes in the jig".
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Jun 28, 2023 17:30
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For making radiator covers/shrouds, any reason not to use poplar?
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Jun 28, 2023 22:02
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Schiavona posted:For making radiator covers/shrouds, any reason not to use poplar?
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Jun 28, 2023 23:35
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you're using poplar I assume you're painting it in which case plywood would be safer as far as warpage. Obviously too soft for anything that's going to take a lot of abuse, but poplar can be pretty if you finish it nicely 
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Jun 29, 2023 00:01
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Wallet posted:Obviously too soft for anything that's going to take a lot of abuse, but poplar can be pretty if you finish it nicely
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Jun 29, 2023 00:45
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you're using poplar I assume you're painting it in which case plywood would be safer as far as warpage. I thought about plywood but I’m planning on shaker-style with slats versus using big sheets of stamped metal, and wasn’t sure how well plywood would work for that versus a solid (whole? Whatever) wood.
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Jun 29, 2023 00:56
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Schiavona posted:I thought about plywood but I’m planning on shaker-style with slats versus using big sheets of stamped metal, and wasn’t sure how well plywood would work for that versus a solid (whole? Whatever) wood.
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Jun 29, 2023 01:00
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You’re definitely right. I just don’t like the greenish tint and have had problems staining it consistently before so in my brain poplar=paint. I've found it takes dye quite evenly and the green fades to a nice brown very quickly.
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Jun 29, 2023 04:34
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Double posting (for shame) but the middle of this is very green 1/4" poplar with just a little natural Watco rubbed into it in July of last year: But today it's a rich warm brown that I think is quite fetching:  1/4" does tend to have some warping issues, though.
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Jun 29, 2023 14:31
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^^^^ thats a city with a river running through it. Hey woodworking thread. I've got a canoe that needs a few new wooden bits. A new yoke and a thwart. I'm going to get replacements for them which presumably will already be varnished or oiled or some poo poo, but they'll likely have to be cut to length and the ends won't be covered. What sort of preservative should I use? It's most likely going to be stored outside (upside down, but still...) year round and will obviously be getting wet every now and then. Don't know what type of wood it will be. *most* of the various wooden canoe parts I see around are ash, but that doesn't mean whatever I buy will be.
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Jun 30, 2023 19:35
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Looking for recommendations for a general-use plane, like if you're going to have just one plane. My woodworking is very much "it's fine" / handyperson level stuff so please keep that in mind here... I'm just tired of struggling to adjust my Stanley 110 block plane that I found a decade ago in my grandparents ' basement. I was going to try to up my plane game by sharpening the blade but I looked up how to adjust it and found a video called "Stanley 110: the plane that nobody likes" and decided maybe I should just get a better plane.
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Jun 30, 2023 19:49
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wesleywillis posted:Hey woodworking thread. My first thought was wood preservative, something like this stuff. It's similar to what's used for pressure-treated lumber, so should do well for wood that gets immersed regularly. But people who know more (i.e. anything) about boating than I do might well have different opinions. alnilam posted:Looking for recommendations for a general-use plane, like if you're going to have just one plane. My woodworking is very much "it's fine" / handyperson level stuff so please keep that in mind here... I'm just tired of struggling to adjust my Stanley 110 block plane that I found a decade ago in my grandparents ' basement. I was going to try to up my plane game by sharpening the blade but I looked up how to adjust it and found a video called "Stanley 110: the plane that nobody likes" and decided maybe I should just get a better plane. Used Stanley no 5 plane would be my pick. Long enough to use for jointing, short enough that it can be used for some non-jointing work as well. A no 4 would also work well.
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Jun 30, 2023 19:52
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I have a bunch of "planes no one likes" including a 110 and they all still plane ok, to me. But yeah get a #4 or #5. all planes will need sharpening at some point so you might as well figure out how.
PokeJoe fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Jun 30, 2023 |
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Jun 30, 2023 20:12
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wesleywillis posted:^^^^ thats a city with a river running through it.
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Jun 30, 2023 20:16
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I don't know why they wouldn't be able to use varnish on the cut parts? I would use spar varnish, which is used typically for boat wood protection. Epifanes is a very good brand. At least I've seen plenty of folks at the marina slapping spar varnish on whatever wood, seems to last a few years no issue.
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Jul 1, 2023 00:07
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alnilam posted:Looking for recommendations for a general-use plane, like if you're going to have just one plane. My woodworking is very much "it's fine" / handyperson level stuff so please keep that in mind here... I'm just tired of struggling to adjust my Stanley 110 block plane that I found a decade ago in my grandparents ' basement. I was going to try to up my plane game by sharpening the blade but I looked up how to adjust it and found a video called "Stanley 110: the plane that nobody likes" and decided maybe I should just get a better plane. Like everyone else said, a Stanley No. 5, or one of the hundreds of identical makes from other manufacturers. Just get a decent one because lots of bad knock offs were made including by Stanley later on.
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Jul 1, 2023 01:11
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Resawing by hand sucks  
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Jul 1, 2023 01:53
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PokeJoe posted:Resawing by hand sucks It does, and that saw is likely filed as cross-cut so it's even harder.
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Jul 1, 2023 02:38
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I've come to (sorta) enjoy resawing now that I've got a bigass ripsaw. Not in twisty wood tho
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Jul 1, 2023 02:52
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Meow Meow Meow posted:It does, and that saw is likely filed as cross-cut so it's even harder. going to battle w the army u have. it's 8tpi, the rest of my saws are all finer japanese handsaws
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Jul 1, 2023 02:59
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No ryoba? Practically made for that. Got a good haul at a tool pickers garage sale: 
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Jul 1, 2023 03:21
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I do but it's also a mega pain in the rear end to resaw with. I need a bandsaw that magically takes up no space
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Jul 1, 2023 03:37
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PokeJoe posted:I do but it's also a mega pain in the rear end to resaw with. I need a bandsaw that magically takes up no space Perhaps digs up that garden bed and you can use a pit saw for your resawwing needs.
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Jul 1, 2023 03:45
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That's a tote full of dirt, I'm on a 4th floor balcony 
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Jul 1, 2023 03:47
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PokeJoe posted:I do but it's also a mega pain in the rear end to resaw with. I need a bandsaw that magically takes up no space When I found myself needing to resaw a lot of 11" wide maple I went to eBay for a 5tpi Disston ripsaw. It was worth it.
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Jul 1, 2023 12:51
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A fine tooth rip saw will resaw better than an aggressive cross cut saw
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Jul 1, 2023 13:34
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My first thought was wood preservative, something like this stuff. It's similar to what's used for pressure-treated lumber, so should do well for wood that gets immersed regularly. But people who know more (i.e. anything) about boating than I do might well have different opinions. I was thinking about getting some of that stuff from lowes depot and just dunking the cut ends in there maybe a couple times if that would make any difference. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you can’t varnish the endgrain, don’t even bother varnishing. It’s the most important part. I’d just use a rot resistant wood like white oak or black locust or sapele and leave it unfinished or oil it. Like pint, varnish can trap moisture and actually make things worse if it’s not a perfect coat. I'm probably limited to whatever kind of wood they are already made of at whatever store I find one at unfortunately. Leperflesh posted:I don't know why they wouldn't be able to use varnish on the cut parts? I would use spar varnish, which is used typically for boat wood protection. Epifanes is a very good brand. At least I've seen plenty of folks at the marina slapping spar varnish on whatever wood, seems to last a few years no issue. Theres lots of marine places around where I live, so it'd probably be easy to find spar varnish. Thanks goons!
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Jul 1, 2023 17:37
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alnilam posted:Looking for recommendations for a general-use plane, like if you're going to have just one plane. My woodworking is very much "it's fine" / handyperson level stuff so please keep that in mind here... I'm just tired of struggling to adjust my Stanley 110 block plane that I found a decade ago in my grandparents ' basement. I was going to try to up my plane game by sharpening the blade but I looked up how to adjust it and found a video called "Stanley 110: the plane that nobody likes" and decided maybe I should just get a better plane. No matter what plane you get you're going to need to sharpen it. I say learn to sharpen first and then decide if your 110 is good enough for your purposes or if you want a number 5.
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Jul 1, 2023 23:03
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I've finished my custom hitbox, a game controller for fighting games.    The wood is from a Japanese Maple in my parents' back yard. It died a few years ago, and I harvested what I could. Wiring everything up was a tricky job. The board is just barely thick enough to fit everything inside, and that meant that I had to be very careful with how I routed the wires. You can see that the panel on the back doesn't quite close properly, because the inside is so packed:  I now have a lot more respect for the people who design our everyday electronics. Turns out it's not easy!
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Jul 1, 2023 23:52
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That's rad as hell.
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Jul 2, 2023 00:48
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| # ? May 17, 2024 00:55 |
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Looks cool brother. Nice use of the family wood
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Jul 2, 2023 01:04
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