Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Anyone have a recommended duct/cooling system for the ender 3 they can recommend? I kicked mine one night when it was sitting on the floor mid repair and I absolutely obliterated that was there.

I think I was using the heroMi setup but not really sure what's recommended nowadays. The printer itself is using a phaetus dragonfly, bltouch, the stock hotend coolingfan, and 2 5015 blowers for parts cooling

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

gbut
Mar 28, 2008

😤I put the UN🇺🇳 in 🎊FUN🎉


I did this paid model upgrade, so here’s the recommendation again.

gbut posted:

I got that noctua, two of them actually, for cooling the hotend and the print. I use that fang duct that is available for purchase on cults3d.com, but i don't have the direct link with me. Just search for "fang ender" or something and you'll find it. I think it works great because it accommodates the crtouch and it cools the filament as a mf. Great upgrade over the stock one.

E: I guess is should read posts better. This is a an upgrade for stock head and 4020 fans

gbut fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Jul 3, 2023

Opinionated
May 29, 2002



w00tmonger posted:

Anyone have a recommended duct/cooling system for the ender 3 they can recommend? I kicked mine one night when it was sitting on the floor mid repair and I absolutely obliterated that was there.

I think I was using the heroMi setup but not really sure what's recommended nowadays. The printer itself is using a phaetus dragonfly, bltouch, the stock hotend coolingfan, and 2 5015 blowers for parts cooling

I used a dual satsana shroud that works well for my specific setup but no idea if it would work for yours. Mine also just broke randomly the other day and I need to print a new one. It was moving pretty good to break PC this way...



I think it was this one: https://www.printables.com/model/143051-satsana-dual-5015-micro-swiss-ddhotend-cr-touch-fa

I tried a lot of other options but found this one works the best for the setup I have, couldn't get the herome one to work.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid
Is there anything better than the Saturn 2 8k around $400? Looking for a build plate around that size, but bigger is fine.

I'm assuming there's not really a reason to go for the Saturn 3 12K if you're mostly printing clear electronics cases, right?

Neo Rasa
Mar 8, 2007
Everyone should play DUKE games.

:dukedog:

Bondematt posted:

Is there anything better than the Saturn 2 8k around $400? Looking for a build plate around that size, but bigger is fine.

I'm assuming there's not really a reason to go for the Saturn 3 12K if you're mostly printing clear electronics cases, right?

Elegoo has the Saturn 3 12K for $400 on their site right now if that's your budget:

https://www.elegoo.com/collections/saturn-series/products/elegoo-saturn-3-resin-3d-printer-12k

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Neo Rasa posted:

Elegoo has the Saturn 3 12K for $400 on their site right now if that's your budget:

https://www.elegoo.com/collections/saturn-series/products/elegoo-saturn-3-resin-3d-printer-12k

Oh jeeze yeah it's a $19 difference now so I might just get that. Thanks!

Fun thing I just learned, if you hit Restart on Klipperscreen on the print end screen, it prints the last item you selected to print on Klipperscreen, not what was last printed. That was a puzzler when testing retraction until I looked at the history.

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

Bondematt posted:

Is there anything better than the Saturn 2 8k around $400? Looking for a build plate around that size, but bigger is fine.

I'm assuming there's not really a reason to go for the Saturn 3 12K if you're mostly printing clear electronics cases, right?

they also have "good used" ones on their site for 239

I bought one so I'll report back if it sucks.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



lol my work just sent out voluntary quit emails, giving 4 weeks pay per year of service to quit. I have 12 years in. I'm currently making more on etsy than I do at my dayjob... gently caress thats tempting.

do etsy, take a year to get some education, HMM

queeb fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Jul 4, 2023

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

queeb posted:

lol my work just sent out voluntary quit emails, giving 4 weeks pay per year of service to quit. I have 12 years in. I'm currently making more on etsy than I do at my dayjob... gently caress thats tempting.

do etsy, take a year to get some education, HMM

Uh ya that’d be an almost instant quit from me. I’d ramp up a print farm, get some more advertisements going and be set. drat dude that’s quite an offer.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Alternately checkout, do gently caress all, get offered the same severance when they dismiss you but get paid the whole time


I envy your situation

mewse
May 2, 2006

During the big tech layoffs recently there was a lot of tech bro wisdom about how the buyout offers will just get worse as time goes on (assuming the company is failing)

WhiteHowler
Apr 3, 2001

I'M HUGE!

Roundboy posted:

get offered the same severance when they dismiss you

That's not how it works like 99% of the time.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



WhiteHowler posted:

That's not how it works like 99% of the time.

yeah the usual is 2 weeks/year with no bonus cash.

wife says take it so I'm going to. drop a few grand on some more printers, maybe play around with this amazon seller account I've had forever making some terrain kits and selling them in a pack like that, get an actual website going. See what happens! Exciting but holy i have no idea what im doing, gonna be fun

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.

queeb posted:

lol my work just sent out voluntary quit emails, giving 4 weeks pay per year of service to quit. I have 12 years in. I'm currently making more on etsy than I do at my dayjob... gently caress thats tempting.

do etsy, take a year to get some education, HMM
A year with full pay and you're already making more on Etsy? I'd be writing up my acceptance already. But there could be insurance or retirement/401k considerations to make too.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
Woof. I'd love to run a print farm and just make models of terrain all day but my medication costs about $6k/mo before insurance so God Bless America.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Rad-daddio posted:

they also have "good used" ones on their site for 239

I bought one so I'll report back if it sucks.

Hell yeah, that's a killer deal. I'm picking one up.

What do you all use for washing? I was looking at the stations, but they all seem rather expensive and larger than what I need. I really just need a short 10" square tub with a sealing lid.

For curing I actually already have a meter of 405nm LEDs, so probably going DIY there.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Yeah I'm Canadian so it's just dental really, and my wife is a nurse and has good benefits so all told it's probably a smart move. Gives me time to get Christmas ready as well.

To put it in perspective I make ~58k a year at Rogers, so about 1200 after tax bi weekly after deductions and stuff. I've made 1200 bucks in 3.5 days on Etsy so far this month

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

queeb posted:

yeah the usual is 2 weeks/year with no bonus cash.

wife says take it so I'm going to. drop a few grand on some more printers, maybe play around with this amazon seller account I've had forever making some terrain kits and selling them in a pack like that, get an actual website going. See what happens! Exciting but holy i have no idea what im doing, gonna be fun

This is currently my dream scenario so congratulations!

Just need to wean myself off earning substantially more than that as a full-Stack dev....

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

queeb posted:

lol my work just sent out voluntary quit emails, giving 4 weeks pay per year of service to quit. I have 12 years in. I'm currently making more on etsy than I do at my dayjob... gently caress thats tempting.

do etsy, take a year to get some education, HMM

Dang, good for you making that work!

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

Bondematt posted:

Hell yeah, that's a killer deal. I'm picking one up.

What do you all use for washing? I was looking at the stations, but they all seem rather expensive and larger than what I need. I really just need a short 10" square tub with a sealing lid.

For curing I actually already have a meter of 405nm LEDs, so probably going DIY there.

I'm looking at a wash and cure station too. Currently I use one of those reusable plastic pickle containers that have a strainer. I ended up buying a separate curing station since it was only 20 bucks.

Also, get a magnetic flex plate. It's really handy for removing prints instead of chiseling them off the build plate all the time.

Some replacement FEP material might be a good idea too. I get the impression that the used machines still have the same fep material they shipped with and it might be damaged.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Bondematt posted:

What do you all use for washing? I was looking at the stations, but they all seem rather expensive and larger than what I need. I really just need a short 10" square tub with a sealing lid.

For curing I actually already have a meter of 405nm LEDs, so probably going DIY there.

For the first year I had a resin printer, I had a diy magnetic stirrer setup for washing and a diy mirror box for curing
I hated resin printing

Finally pulled the trigger and got a wash and cure. World of difference, actually don't mind doing resin prints now, kind of enjoy getting neat pieces off. Running through a real wash station makes removing supports / getting the build plate clean a world easier.

If anyone asks me about getting a resin printer, I tell them to budget for a wash and cure or don't bother

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Sockser posted:

For the first year I had a resin printer, I had a diy magnetic stirrer setup for washing and a diy mirror box for curing
I hated resin printing

Finally pulled the trigger and got a wash and cure. World of difference, actually don't mind doing resin prints now, kind of enjoy getting neat pieces off. Running through a real wash station makes removing supports / getting the build plate clean a world easier.

If anyone asks me about getting a resin printer, I tell them to budget for a wash and cure or don't bother

Is there one you recommend, or are they all pretty similar? I think the largest Mars Mercury will work for what I need.

Bondematt fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jul 5, 2023

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




When I only had a Mars and a Mars 2, the OG Mercury was pretty good. Drop the plate in, turn it on, wait, remove the tub, remove the prints, put 'em on the plate

Now that I have a Saturn, I had to upgrade to the Mercury X. Having a separate station for washing and curing is pretty great, but I'd say that's just a nicety. I don't believe the Mercury 2 existed at that time, and it's probably worth the 50% price cut from the X.
(Bonus: I still have the OG Mercury, so I get to do a dirty wash and a clean wash both with power)

Just be mindful you don't have it in wash mode while you're trying to cure prints or it'll spin that little plate and toss your models everywhere.


General advice for wash'n'cures: get the one made by the same brand as your printer. They're sized for the build plate of the corresponding printer.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid
Looks like it needs to be the Mercury X/XS for the size I want to print. Was hoping for less bulk, but doesn't look like the combo's are large enough.

What is the best flex plate for the Saturn 2? Also does anyone have experience with Elegoo ABS like clear red?

Sockser posted:

Just be mindful you don't have it in wash mode while you're trying to cure prints or it'll spin that little plate and toss your models everywhere.

This is a great mental image of miniatures bouncing off the enclosure.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Bondematt posted:

Looks like it needs to be the Mercury X/XS for the size I want to print. Was hoping for less bulk, but doesn't look like the combo's are large enough.

What is the best flex plate for the Saturn 2? Also does anyone have experience with Elegoo ABS like clear red?

This is a great mental image of miniatures bouncing off the enclosure.

I generally go with Wham Bam. Pretty solid, good adhesive on the magnet

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Still trying to figure out flow for a 0.8CHT on my Neptune Max

I ran through CNC Kitchen's flow calibration and .... the numbers don't super make sense to me



All the data I've gathered here suggests I should top out around 15 mm3/s
But it's 0.8 nozzle
and it's a CHT

I should be able to push 30+
What gives?
What am I doing wrong here?

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

Sockser posted:

Still trying to figure out flow for a 0.8CHT on my Neptune Max

I ran through CNC Kitchen's flow calibration and .... the numbers don't super make sense to me



All the data I've gathered here suggests I should top out around 15 mm3/s
But it's 0.8 nozzle
and it's a CHT

I should be able to push 30+
What gives?
What am I doing wrong here?

Did you recalibrate your steps/mm on your extruder stepper when you went to the bigger nozzle?

Do people still do that even?

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
Extruder stepper shouldn't change with a bigger nozzle, afaik?

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Rad-daddio posted:

Did you recalibrate your steps/mm on your extruder stepper when you went to the bigger nozzle?

Do people still do that even?


ilkhan posted:

Extruder stepper shouldn't change with a bigger nozzle, afaik?

Both of these are true, but I am just using some dude's Klipper config and did not calibrate esteps on my own, so that's a good call

update: I don't think the esteps could be any more accurate than they already were. Rule that one out.

Sockser fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Jul 6, 2023

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
nozzle size does not affect extrusion speed. E Steps are done once and left alone.

try this method : https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/determining_max_volumetric_flow_rate.html#method
because I can reliably hit 24 mm^3/sec with a .4 nozzle using a dragon HF, and i have a CHT knockoff in there. I still leave my flow @24 and set it in the slicer as the max.

I also throw a .6 (normal) nozzle on but i leave the flow the same, but yes i would expect it to be higher but the speed would need to decrease.

That is all in theory though, your actual setup testing actual speeds / flow is the only real way. If your proper test only shows a max of 15mm^3.sec then that is what you get. I would examine that you actually got a proper nozzle (likely) and then see if your hot end can heat up plastic fast enough to push it. The hot end might be able to, but is the heater cartridge big enough? Are your temps accurate ? Your thermistor says 200 but is it really 180 ?

Tl;DR Wide ranging real world tests are key, and i have yet to actually do them myself

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Roundboy posted:


try this method : https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/determining_max_volumetric_flow_rate.html#method
because I can reliably hit 24 mm^3/sec with a .4 nozzle using a dragon HF, and i have a CHT knockoff in there. I still leave my flow @24 and set it in the slicer as the max.


The spreadsheet I posted above is CNC kitchen's automated version of this test
Each cell is the resultant weight of 200mm of filament being extruded

If I were trying to push speeds on a $100 Microcenter Ender3, I would definitely see that I could reliably only hit 10mm3/s and shrug my shoulders
But this is a Neptune 3, a pretty good machine
It seems very silly that I seem throttled this low

I think I'm going to take the CHT off, re-benchmark with a standard 0.8, and then maybe re-benchmark with a 0.4
I feel like I was getting better results with a standard 0.8 but I've introduced so many new variables since the nozzle swap I'm not sure which step really broke things

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

Sockser posted:

The spreadsheet I posted above is CNC kitchen's automated version of this test
Each cell is the resultant weight of 200mm of filament being extruded



I realize, but this way is a sanity check to verify your results. You ask for x flow, are you getting that flow? It's usually immediate feedback in the form of skipping.

I 100% agree you should get nicer flows, so it's trying to find out what component is not up to snuff

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Roundboy posted:

I realize, but this way is a sanity check to verify your results. You ask for x flow, are you getting that flow? It's usually immediate feedback in the form of skipping.

I 100% agree you should get nicer flows, so it's trying to find out what component is not up to snuff

ughghghghhhhhh

If I do it slow as gently caress, 1mm/s, as one would calibrate esteps, it's pretty bang on. Cool.

If I up it to 5mm/s, suddenly I'm at like 10% underextrusion
If I pinch the idler door closed with my hand while it's going, it's pretty close!

But I believe I have tensioned the idler door as snug as it will go on its own so uh,
not sure where to go from here

I'm gonna put the non-CHT 0.8 back on and try again, I guess???

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!
Follow each step of the Andrew Ellis guide rather than trying to wander your way into your settings.

That guide worked very well for me.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




After more faffing with it, I noticed that when I engage the idler lever to insert/remove filament, it doesn't like to completely return to position unless I gently caress with it a couple times. I'm pretty sure the bondtech gears aren't completely engaging. Non-zero chance there's some crud wedged in there causing interference leading to this slipping. I had it printing totally fine like, a week ago, and haven't changed anything other than swapping in the CHT and then trying to push flow limits super hard on the slicer side, and I can observe it so if things are loving up manually like that, and I get correct results per Ellis's guide by forcing tension in the idler, then it's gotta be a mechanical problem.

Not to pull the move of asking for advice and then ignoring it, as goons are wont to do, but y'know this is where I'm at.

e: a glance at youtube tells me the idler is basically at the bottom of the assembly stack for the Neptune extruder so this is going to be fun

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
My P1P came in the mail yesterday. This things a beast, printed the best benchy I’ve ever done within 30 minutes of taking it out of the box.

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

Toebone posted:

My P1P came in the mail yesterday. This things a beast, printed the best benchy I’ve ever done within 30 minutes of taking it out of the box.

Nice!

I'm envious recalling the days back when I got my Solidoodle 2 in 2012 and spent an entire xmas vacation dialing it in.

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017
Also, is anyone here running the NFEP material for resin printers?

Any truth to the hype if so?

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

So about that 4th of July iiid max filament sale



Me and my brother split the 30 pack. Came out to $10.50/roll including next day shipping since they are just a few hours away here in Florida.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Using a Neptune 2. Been having a lot of problems with the prints peeling up from the bed. It doesn't seem to be an adhesion problem because the first 10-15 layers work fine. I think it is an issue of the layers cooling and shrinking that pull the edges of the print up from the print bed. I'm using a version of Prusa Slicer that is about a year old (I'm not at home right now) and had my temps set at 210 nozzle/75 bed. I lowered them down to 210/60 for the first layer and then 200/60 for the rest of the layers and it didn't seem to make any difference. Tried with both regular flat white PLA (forgot the brand) and two different types of PLA+ from IIID MAX.

Not sure if it is related or not, but my cooling fan is always on. I disabled "Keep fan always on" in Prusa, but left "Enable auto cooling" enabled because if I disabled that, I couldn't enter any parameters. I set it to "off" for the first 2 layers, but it is on 100% of the time anyway. I can upload the GCODE as a txt file later this afternoon if it will help. Thanks!

Only registered members can see post attachments!

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply