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So what’s the secret incantation to get the rattlecan version of retributor armour to not be complete poo poo? Did a tester in ideal weather conditions after warming the can and shaking the hell out of it, I might as well have sprayed sparkly sand. This isn’t my first time using cans and I did a bunch of priming in grey just before with zero issues. I miss my airbrush.
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Jul 6, 2023 02:36
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Does anyone have experience with the turbo dork line of acrylic color shifting paints (non metallic)? Looking to see both how good the effect is with the non metallic paints as well as how difficult it is to do any sort of highlight or shadows on them. Though I assume since it’s like car chameleon paint it’s meant to be a single coat over primer with no highlights?
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Jul 6, 2023 04:19
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Chill la Chill posted:Does anyone have experience with the turbo dork line of acrylic color shifting paints (non metallic)? Looking to see both how good the effect is with the non metallic paints as well as how difficult it is to do any sort of highlight or shadows on them. Though I assume since it’s like car chameleon paint it’s meant to be a single coat over primer with no highlights? you got it. if you're going to do anything interesting with them, it's probably grisaille rather than the traditional flat-shade-highlight. (even then, check the ones that do not show up over very light colors.) they're super gaudy, so they look decent if you're painting game pawns or tacky gift store statues or car bodies or some kind of large smooth hull, but on detailed small-scale stuff, they're just an eyesore.
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Jul 6, 2023 04:33
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Chill la Chill posted:Does anyone have experience with the turbo dork line of acrylic color shifting paints (non metallic)? Looking to see both how good the effect is with the non metallic paints as well as how difficult it is to do any sort of highlight or shadows on them. Though I assume since it’s like car chameleon paint it’s meant to be a single coat over primer with no highlights? Typically speaking (it can vary by the color) it's like 2-3 coats max over gloss primer. No shading or highlighting because it'll kill the color shift, although I suppose if you were doing very thin glazes you might be able to alter the colors a bit, I've just never seen it done. The effect itself is good, but I think it's a huge waste if you're not putting it over a significant enough surface area to really see the whole transition, and forget any kind of detail.
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Jul 6, 2023 05:14
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I did some tests with one of them (wanted to see if I could get something like that oil-slick kind of Iron Hands scheme out of it), and you can get away with a careful wash to the recesses for some definition, and maybe like a zenithal mixing it with a very small amount of a really bright silver/chrome. brushing it on kind of breaks the effect so traditional highlighting is out completely. I think Cease to Hope is right that underpainting of some kind is the best option there's probably a way to make it work on 40k type miniatures but, I think overall the look of it is just not compatible with common painting techniques to the point where you'll have to figure out ways to do everything else that are complimentary to it for good end results. something for when you're in the mood for a challenge imo
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Jul 6, 2023 06:35
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It doesn't look bad for stuff like Eldar gems tho
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Jul 6, 2023 07:26
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Eej posted:It doesn't look bad for stuff like Eldar gems tho any good-looking colored metallic will do just as well on a detail that small. AP has some nice and fairly cheap ones.
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Jul 6, 2023 11:10
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Chill la Chill posted:Does anyone have experience with the turbo dork line of acrylic color shifting paints (non metallic)? Looking to see both how good the effect is with the non metallic paints as well as how difficult it is to do any sort of highlight or shadows on them. Though I assume since it’s like car chameleon paint it’s meant to be a single coat over primer with no highlights? Having used both I kinda prefer the vallejo shifters, a lot of the turbo dork (and a couple of the shifters) are indistinguishable from eachother despite looking different on the packaging. It is supposed to go over gloss black in a kinda zenithal way where the black stays in the shadows and then you can use a metallic highlight but I didn't
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Jul 6, 2023 11:17
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Mr Teatime posted:So what’s the secret incantation to get the rattlecan version of retributor armour to not be complete poo poo? Did a tester in ideal weather conditions after warming the can and shaking the hell out of it, I might as well have sprayed sparkly sand. This isn’t my first time using cans and I did a bunch of priming in grey just before with zero issues. Is your humidity too high or did you get a dodgy can? The only GW spray I've had issues with were Skull and later Corax white which had a tendency to powder. All the other GW sprays I've used have been perfectly fine if just very expensive.
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Jul 6, 2023 11:28
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Eej posted:It doesn't look bad for stuff like Eldar gems tho really do not think it's worth the effort on something like that; not very distinguishable from a regular metallic on such small areas, and it does need to be airbrushed on to work right. if you brush it on it's 5+ coats for something that has maybe half the intended effect
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Jul 6, 2023 11:43
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Thanks a lot for the thoughts on colorshift paints. I think with my paint style it really won't fit anyway, but was curious given the neat effects it has. I think it would be nicer if it worked with smaller items, but it makes sense that you need a larger surface area for it to really pop and you could just use the existing methods of extreme highlights in smaller spaces.
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Jul 6, 2023 14:43
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I've used their colourshift stuff for battletech canopies and some sword blades and it seems to work well enough on them, the effect isn't massively visible, but the colour is nice enough. needs a a lot of coats done perpendicular (a vertical coat, then a horizontal coat, then repeat as necessary) to pop though. The colour I have (forest flux) can sorta be "forced" to colourshift by putting down more coats in the area I want it to, but idk if any of the others act like that.
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Jul 6, 2023 16:07
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Radiation Cow posted:Oh. Oh no. Sending you all of the internet sympathies. Are you going to try and rebuild it? My kid broke a 100 year old cookie jar lid the day after. We're going to have a "try to fix our stupid bullshit we did" hobby sesh tonight.
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Jul 6, 2023 17:31
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Any recs for a color besides black for the bolter slides on Blood Angels? I always think they look good on stuff like Ultramarines where they're red but I can't really for the life of me thing of a contrasting color that would go with red.
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Jul 6, 2023 17:53
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navy blue, dark forest green, inky purple, gold, bronze, not quite black but off black
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Jul 6, 2023 18:08
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Any advice for a lighter blue contrast/speed paint? I've tried AP magic blue and AP highlord blue, and both are a little too dark/saturated for some applications and I feel like I'm losing detail and at table height the blue areas just look dark and indistinguishable. I'd love a light blue or sky blue, ideally in a dropper bottle instead of a citadel pot.
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Jul 6, 2023 18:13
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Arcturas posted:Any advice for a lighter blue contrast/speed paint? I've tried AP magic blue and AP highlord blue, and both are a little too dark/saturated for some applications and I feel like I'm losing detail and at table height the blue areas just look dark and indistinguishable. I'd love a light blue or sky blue, ideally in a dropper bottle instead of a citadel pot. Haven't tried it myself but Vallejo Xpress Mystic Blue looks like what you might want.
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Jul 6, 2023 18:20
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EdsTeioh posted:Any recs for a color besides black for the bolter slides on Blood Angels? I always think they look good on stuff like Ultramarines where they're red but I can't really for the life of me thing of a contrasting color that would go with red. very dark, cold browns or really deep blues, to look like case-hardened steel. maybe a dab of metallic medium.
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Jul 6, 2023 18:24
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Arcturas posted:Any advice for a lighter blue contrast/speed paint? I've tried AP magic blue and AP highlord blue, and both are a little too dark/saturated for some applications and I feel like I'm losing detail and at table height the blue areas just look dark and indistinguishable. I'd love a light blue or sky blue, ideally in a dropper bottle instead of a citadel pot. Contrast medium helps to fix these issues and get more uses out of the contrasts you already have. But really, frostheart and pylar glacier are what you're looking for
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Jul 6, 2023 18:27
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EdsTeioh posted:Any recs for a color besides black for the bolter slides on Blood Angels? I always think they look good on stuff like Ultramarines where they're red but I can't really for the life of me thing of a contrasting color that would go with red. Hazard stripes like 2nd edition Blood Angels
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Jul 6, 2023 19:00
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Silhouette posted:Hazard stripes like 2nd edition Blood Angels I thought about that, but I dunno if I wanna do that many. Def doing them on my Terminators' Power Fists though.
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Jul 6, 2023 20:02
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Chill la Chill posted:Thanks a lot for the thoughts on colorshift paints. I think with my paint style it really won't fit anyway, but was curious given the neat effects it has. I think it would be nicer if it worked with smaller items, but it makes sense that you need a larger surface area for it to really pop and you could just use the existing methods of extreme highlights in smaller spaces. I used colorshifting paint on my AdMech wing membranes. I'm happy with how they came out, though it's pretty difficult to photograph. It's way cooler in person. 
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Jul 6, 2023 20:03
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Z the IVth posted:Is your humidity too high or did you get a dodgy can? Should’ve been ideal, like 20-25C and 40%humidity. I’m only using cans because I’m staying in Canada for a bit and don’t have my airbrush set up from home. I suppose I was due a gently caress up because I’ve shot wraithbone in way below sub zero with no issues with sufficient can prep before.
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Jul 6, 2023 20:12
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 I'm painting my first minis and also encountering painting white for the first time. I am very happy with how 2 layers of greens went on the Ork skin, with no perceptible loss of details, but I feel like 1 layer of white equally thinned and it's blotching out his shirt belt buckle things. I don't plan to actually make his clothes white; I just want a brighter base than the gray primer to lend brightness to the desired final color. Anyway what should I do to try and recover the definition on blotched areas? Like a light brushing with rubbing alcohol or something? And I guess generally working with white I need to really thin it, huh?
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Jul 6, 2023 20:45
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White just sucks poo poo to paint, go over it with a medium grey and work up to white instead
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Jul 6, 2023 21:46
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Start with a lighter grey like Vallejo model color dark sea grey which covers amazingly, then layer on an off white like say Vallejo game color off white (I forget the new name but the old one is literally called off white), then highlight with an actual white
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Jul 6, 2023 21:53
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At home and my brother mentioned there was a load of models still in the attic so we had a look. Found an old toolbox full of bits. Things hadn't weathered so well in it and old bits of poly cement had yellowed, but I did manage to snag this guy: Check out that 1999 paint job. There's also a fully painted Ghazkul Thraka that someone found at a Carboot sale and gave to me. Nice job on it. I'll see if I can get the paint off Aenur here. Other box we found was from way later, like 2011 when I could paint a bit better and had some pots in! Some purple which I'm delighted to find because my GW order still hasn't shipped. I managed to get 10 pots of various ages that were still liquid. 3 that were borderline that I managed to stir back into shape and a bunch that were wither empty or just solid acrylic. Most surprising was a pot of whatever they called the tan pink flesh tone in 1996, which is when I got that pot along with a bottle of orange wash from that era that. tbh I don't know what I'm ever going to do with..
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Jul 6, 2023 22:17
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Does anyone know where to get Raphael 8404s in the u.s that’s not from Amazon? I tried jacksonart but apparently the U.S banned importation of sable brushes a good bit ago? Can’t seem to find any online. I like them more than W&N, although I haven’t tried rosemary and co I hear there are the same delivery issues
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Jul 7, 2023 04:53
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SuperKlaus posted:
Good advice from others, also Im not sure but it looks like the mini was not primed?
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Jul 7, 2023 05:20
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SuperKlaus posted:
I know this isn't exactly what you asked, but did you not prime this? You can have some serious problems with paint rubbing off of the model just from general use if so, as well as problems with paint adhering properly and smoothly to begin with. That being said, don't paint white. Paint medium to light greys and highlight white to get what you're going for 99% of the time - especially when you're starting out. White is one of the worst colors out there.
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Jul 7, 2023 06:20
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The base is grey so I assume it is primed?
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Jul 7, 2023 06:56
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 Still WIP, some touchups and mistakes to be corrected but Im mostly happy with them, going for tabletop. I will most likely be painting 40+ of those wolves and Im not going to burn out from taking hours to paint all that fur. Majkol fucked around with this message at 08:23 on Jul 7, 2023 |
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Jul 7, 2023 08:21
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Primarily White Painter here: 1) Ulthuan Grey with water/ medium 2) Shade with a 7:1 mix of Medium and Drakenhoff Blue 3) Rebase with Ulthuan 4) Chunky edge highlight 1:1 Ulthuan and White Scar 5) Edge highlight White Scar You can add a 5.5) in there with a higher mix of White Scar to Ulthuan, depending on the model
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Jul 7, 2023 11:02
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SuperKlaus posted:
This thread is good people (and some fantastically talented mini painters), who are all eager to help out and give advice, and it generally rules. That said... folks we need to read the posts we are wanting to give advice on, in case we miss important details like "They dont need advice on painting white clothes, just getting an even coat of white for an undertone" and "The model is primed (in grey)". "Dont paint actual white" is great advice for someone who wants the shirt to look white, but if someone is wanting to make the shirt pop as a bright yellow or orange, or is planning on hitting it with some contrast style paints then going from a white base is fine. So, in regards the original question; Most white miniature paints are various flavours of bad. Some are chalky, some are almost transparent and have next to no coverage, some look okay going on then tend to dry streaky. GWs Corax White is widely considered one of the worst paints in their line. If you dip a toe into the artists paint world you can get white paint that covers well, but it'll need thinned a bunch and theres a decent chance its kind of toxic, so most people work around their bad mini paint whites instead. If you find a white you like then hang onto it, maybe buy a second bottle as insurance against that company changing their recipe. If there is a poo poo paint I need to baby but still need to thin then using diluted matte medium instead of pure water to thin it can sometimes help a little but loving with mediums is probably not something I'd advise on your first squad. Using white as an undershade to put bright paint over is a decent idea, as anyone who's ever tried to put yellow over black will tell you. (sidenote; If you are planning to make the clothes specifically yellow you might want to consider using a pale pink as your undertone instead of pure white. Sounds counterintuitive but actually works really well and pink generally covers better than white). Dont panic about the coat looking streaky, you certainly dont need to remove any paint yet*. What I'd do is have another go at getting an even coverage with appropriately thinned white paint over the whole area and see if that evens it out a little. This is just effectively an undercoat, it doesnt need to be perfect because when you paint over it that will hide a lot of irregularity, and if there are a couple of slightly darker/lighter/streaky areas well... Its an ork, I'd bet against his clothes looking clean and brand new anyway, a little variation is fine. If you have a light grey or ivory with better coverage you could use that as your undertone instead, it will obviously have an effect on the final colour of the top coat. Honestly if was doing something similar with the white paints I have, knowing their weaknesses, I'd probably have done the white as an overbrush. Thats kind of like drybrushing but with more paint on the brush, wiping a lot of the paint off then slapping white paint on the raised areas and flats but missing a lot of the recesses, which will become shadows when I then go in with my clothing base colour. If you have a cheap-rear end brush you dont care about (for example if you bought a really cheap pack of artists synthetics from a big box store) thats the brush to go with as its a little hard on brushes and you dont want to ruin a nice mini brush. Theres zero finesse to this which is nice, the point is simply to wipe a thin layer of paint over 85% of the area, and as I'm wiping a lot of the paint off on a piece of scrap cardboard I dont have to worry about thinning it. Dont care if it dries chalky, its getting covered with red/yellow/whatever anyway. So, my advice in a handy bulletpointed list; - Thin your paints appropriately. This takes practice and getting a feel for it, so you will gently caress this up as you are still on your first minis. Thats fine, every single poster in this thread has some hosed up looking minis in their past, no-one was immediately great first time. The standard advice is "consistency of skimmed milk" which I personally find entirely unhelpful, so "If it runs into recesses its too thin, if your brush leaves a texture on the paint its too thick" is the best I got. I'm assuming you are using a hard palette (a bit of plastic or ceramic). A wet palette would help with the thinning a bit, but isnt something you need for your first squad. - Go in with a second thin coat and see where that leaves you. You dont actually need this to have entirely uniform white coverage, good enough is. You might need a third coat, as much as "two thin coats" is a mantra in the hobby, its more of an ideal than concrete reality sometimes. - Once you have something approaching white coverage put on the clothing colour basecoat, see how it looks. - There kind of isnt a step 4 tbh. *Okay, this is the footnote where we talk about removing paint; You almost never need to remove paint unless you've gone in with unthinned Abaddon Black or other "consistancy of tar" paint and covered up the details. People in the hobby freak out about paint obscuring details but if you are using thinned paints you can literally prime over a completed paintjob and paint the whole thing again without losing much definition. If the detail was shallow enough to be obscured by a second coat of spray primer (which, bear in mind, when correctly applied has a thickness measured in thousands of a millimetre) then it was too small and shallow for me to paint at my skill level anyway. I have an "oh poo poo" brush for when I put paint somewhere it shouldnt be (a cheap mini brush which was nearing end of life so I cut the bristles down to 2-3mm) and use that to immediately wipe paint off when it goes where it shouldnt. Other than that its almost always a case of adding more paint instead of taking it off. If you gotta strip paint (and with all that said, sometimes you do gotta) then rubbing alcohol (probably Isopropyl) or denatured alcohol (Methanol) will do the job (as will assorted other chemicals and cleaning agents). But its kind of a nuclear option. You'd have to be super lucky to put that on a q-tip, rub it over the paint and have it lift the streaky white but not damage your grey primer, and now you've removed the white which you were worried about causing streaks but.... You have patches of unprimed plastic which will make any paint you put over it apply very unevenly. If I'm stripping models (usually things I've bought off ebay that were already badly painted) then I'm dunking the whole thing in meths and going in with a toothbrush and stripping the whole thing back to bare plastic, repriming and starting from scratch. We'll call stripping the paint off "Plan B", if you still arent happy after another thin coat of white or two then you can try it because at that point what do you have to lose. but I strongly suspect you'll end up having to reprime if you go that route.
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Jul 7, 2023 11:14
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Heya mini thread! As I near middle age I’ve been hearing the call of painting again - have been playing with an airbrush to do gunpla but am super inspired by all your great work and also amazing painters on tiktok Anyway, I’d like to get a set of interesting figures to practise on, some guys with some cool details but not too fiddly and definitely not as expensive as GW stuff. Long shot but does anything stand out as a fun thing to paint without a scary commitment? More interested in the robot / weird bug side of thing than people if that helps.
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Jul 7, 2023 11:45
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SiKboy posted:This thread is good people (and some fantastically talented mini painters), who are all eager to help out and give advice, and it generally rules. That said... folks we need to read the posts we are wanting to give advice on, in case we miss important details like "They dont need advice on painting white clothes, just getting an even coat of white for an undertone" and "The model is primed (in grey)". "Dont paint actual white" is great advice for someone who wants the shirt to look white, but if someone is wanting to make the shirt pop as a bright yellow or orange, or is planning on hitting it with some contrast style paints then going from a white base is fine. I am dumb and skimmed the post instead of reading it properly, sorry!
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Jul 7, 2023 11:56
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Majkol posted:I am dumb and skimmed the post instead of reading it properly, sorry! Honestly not aimed at anyone particular, and I had the same thought from the photo! The grey primer is the same colour as some GW grey plastic. I think its maybe because my day job is a teacher, it just pains me to see people spend effort giving good advice on the wrong problem.
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Jul 7, 2023 12:09
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Yeah I think I’m just used to “What is wrong with my white?” Post being associated with “White is bad, do this instead.”
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Jul 7, 2023 12:13
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SiKboy posted:If you have a light grey or ivory with better coverage you could use that as your undertone instead, it will obviously have an effect on the final colour of the top coat. Pretty much exactly this. When I want a very clean yellow or orange, I start with Golden neutral grey heavy body, which is basically opaque, go over it with either zinc white or titanium white, and neutral gray's light enough that any lack of coverage doesn't matter a ton, and it leaves the corners slightly dark. From there, a very warm orange or red (Cadmium Red Light) or a very warm yellow (Diarylide Yellow Medium) as a base over it, and layer up to the pure orange or yellow I want.
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Jul 7, 2023 12:26
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occluded posted:Heya mini thread! As I near middle age I’ve been hearing the call of painting again - have been playing with an airbrush to do gunpla but am super inspired by all your great work and also amazing painters on tiktok Mantic games make pretty cheap minis, their Deadzone line has some ok bugs and robots and whatnot. Much much more fiddlier ( and everything is metal afaik ) but still pretty cheap compared to GW is Infinity from Corvus Belli. One of the factions - Combined Army has cool aliens and most of the factions have cool robits and mech suits. Their female models still suck, combat heels and pinup poses. Reaper Bones are probably the cheapest you can get while still being alright quality but their sci-fi range is very limited. The Starfinder line from Archon Studios has some great dudes too, they make cool stuff in general, like their Dungeons and Lasers animal companions. *editing just to stress that Infinity models are super loving fiddly, about 10 years ago I stupidly offered a friend of mine to put together and paint the entire line of one their factions for a him and I probably aged a year just from trying to make all the tiny antennae stick to the backpacks and whatever. Majkol fucked around with this message at 12:54 on Jul 7, 2023 |
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Jul 7, 2023 12:45
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