Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
Fack, I figured. PCANView just made it so easy to add a new message and sets its cyclic rate.
The arduinos seem to suck if message timing is fast

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

madeintaipei
Jul 13, 2012

2014 VW Routan (a VW branded Chrysler Town and Country): I need to jack the rear end up to change a tire and put the mini spare back under the van. Someone has helpfully bent the doubled-up rear sill jackpoints to poo poo, so the factory jack won't fit. I have a big floor jack with a flat rubber pad on it that is more than capable of lifting the vehicle.

My questions are: where do I safely locate the jack pad without stressing the bent pinch weld or pushing up on the ten tons of poo poo under the van, and where can I safely put a jack stand to stabilize the vehicle while it's in a raised position?

My plan is: jack the vehicle up by the rear lower control arm mounting point and put the jack stand under the pinch weld jack point, settling what's left of it in the "cradle" of the jack stand.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



As far as I know, its still the pinch welds for jack points, regardless of how mangled they are. Its more to do with position on the unibody than the state of the pinch weld.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



You can always hoist it at the rear axle/suspension but yeah, jack stand has to go at the lift point. They do sell grooved rubber pucks that might help.

madeintaipei
Jul 13, 2012

Dr. Lunchables posted:

As far as I know, it’s still the pinch welds for jack points, regardless of how mangled they are. It’s more to do with position on the unibody than the state of the pinch weld.

Thank you!

I think I might just have the tire shop take care of it, since I need them to replace my plug with a patch-plug anyway.

The vehicle is supposed to be a camping van for one of the kids, so I don't know what advice to give them going forward. Road-side has already let us down (through no fault of their own), due to being out of cell service. The stock jack just won't safely do it anymore, and we need to find a solution for that.

PainterofCrap posted:

You can always hoist it at the rear axle/suspension but yeah, jack stand has to go at the lift point. They do sell grooved rubber pucks that might help.

Noted, thank you!

If they had stuck with the original option of a Chevy G30, I had this all planned out. FWD fucks that up for us. I know very little about taking care of this van, compared to a body-on-frame vehicle.

madeintaipei fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Jul 6, 2023

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Trolley jack in it's own case, and the aforementioned lifting pucks. I have one in my Bonneville because, even though it's there & works perfectly, I am not ever again risking life & limb to a bumper jack.

madeintaipei
Jul 13, 2012

PainterofCrap posted:

Trolley jack in it's own case, and the aforementioned lifting pucks. I have one in my Bonneville because, even though it's there & works perfectly, I am not ever again risking life & limb to a bumper jack.

I'm pretty sure I can convince them to get the right equipment. That's on the list now.

The idea is to self-recover from general roadside poo poo, just enough to get the thing back to a shop or assistance. Plug kit, tire inflator, jump box, proper jack, gas can, oil, coolant, p/s fluid, brake fluid, coolant cap, gas cap, at least one of each light bulb, one wheel's worth of lug nuts, 100pc. set of fuses, 60pc. ratchet set, breaker bar, and a few extra 10mm sockets.

This is what I carry in my truck, and I think what they should have going far from home.

neogeo0823
Jul 4, 2007

NO THAT'S NOT ME!!

Can I please get a recommendation for a portable AC unit for my 2010 Honda Civic? The actual AC died like 3 years ago, and I'm sick of not having $600 to spare to fix it when we start getting the 90F days. I see that prices range from ~$50 to ~$500, and I'd like to lean cheaper, preferably under $200, if able.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

neogeo0823 posted:

Can I please get a recommendation for a portable AC unit for my 2010 Honda Civic? The actual AC died like 3 years ago, and I'm sick of not having $600 to spare to fix it when we start getting the 90F days. I see that prices range from ~$50 to ~$500, and I'd like to lean cheaper, preferably under $200, if able.

unless youre planning to rig up like a full-fat Pinguino in your car none of those portable AC dealies is gonna be worth the money or time you spend on it

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

neogeo0823 posted:

Can I please get a recommendation for a portable AC unit for my 2010 Honda Civic?

Don't

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

neogeo0823 posted:

Can I please get a recommendation for a portable AC unit for my 2010 Honda Civic? The actual AC died like 3 years ago, and I'm sick of not having $600 to spare to fix it when we start getting the 90F days. I see that prices range from ~$50 to ~$500, and I'd like to lean cheaper, preferably under $200, if able.

I guess to expand on this, portable AC units are generally bad. The cheap ones are swamp coolers that work by blowing air on a wet sponge, and the expensive ones require 120v AC power, are huge, heavy, inefficient, and can't be sandwiched into a car well. You could _in theory_ get an RV air conditioner and punch a hole in the roof, but that's also a bad idea and costs $1000.

Your car's air conditioner compressor is directly driven by the engine. It's all built in there. Your best bet is to fix it or get it fixed. Read the first two posts here and spend $20 trying to fix it yourself before you drop $600 at a shop: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3970674

neogeo0823
Jul 4, 2007

NO THAT'S NOT ME!!

Welp. gently caress. Ugh. Ok, I'll just add that to the growing pile labeled poo poo That'll Never Get Fixed.

Safety Dance posted:

I guess to expand on this, portable AC units are generally bad. The cheap ones are swamp coolers that work by blowing air on a wet sponge, and the expensive ones require 120v AC power, are huge, heavy, inefficient, and can't be sandwiched into a car well. You could _in theory_ get an RV air conditioner and punch a hole in the roof, but that's also a bad idea and costs $1000.

Your car's air conditioner compressor is directly driven by the engine. It's all built in there. Your best bet is to fix it or get it fixed. Read the first two posts here and spend $20 trying to fix it yourself before you drop $600 at a shop: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3970674

Thanks for the information, and for the link. I was phone posting from work, so I didn't elaborate much. 3 years ago, I was driving along after a snow storm and hit some black ice. I spun out backwards into a ditch, into hip deep snow, and had to get towed out. The following spring, the compressor died. It doesn't make any sounds of any kind when I try to turn on the AC. At first, I thought the system needed to be recharged, so I did all of what you linked there, but that didn't solve the problem. So, I took it to a shop that claims to specialize in AC systems, and they told me that the condenser fins had gotten all hosed up from sliding through the snow bank, and that the condenser being hosed up is what caused my compressor to die. That shop quoted me $1200 to fix both the compressor and the condenser, so I took it to a smaller mom-n-pop shop, who are the ones that quoted me $600. Considering poo poo in this country these days, I'm assuming that quote is now probably double what it was. Everything else is.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Replacing the condenser and compressor is going to be cheaper and better than any other AC system that is actually effective at cooling down a car.

neogeo0823
Jul 4, 2007

NO THAT'S NOT ME!!

IOwnCalculus posted:

Replacing the condenser and compressor is going to be cheaper and better than any other AC system that is actually effective at cooling down a car.

Yeah, no, I get that. I would really love to get the thing properly fixed, but $600 has been too much to swing at once for the last 3 years, and every time I try to set aside money to build up a savings, something happens and kills that before I get even halfway. A coworker told me about the portable AC things for cars, so I came in here to ask, holding out hope that I might actually be able to drive home from work some day without needing to guzzle a liter of Gatorade, shower, and throw my clothes in the wash the instant I get home.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Yeah, it sucks, the cheap ones are all lovely swamp coolers and the expensive ones are proper air conditioners but for sailboats or RVs. If you live in the desert, a swamp cooler might be somewhat effective. I'm not sure how it would perform compared with the heat of the sun on your car vs rolling down the windows and using your body's own evaporative cooling.

If you're feeling lucky / handy, it looks like a new AC compressor, condenser, and gasket kit costs under $300 on RockAuto.com. I searched "2010 honda civic replace ac compressor" on youtube and the first few results look fruitful. You could try throwing a new compressor/condenser in there and getting the shop to refill it with refrigerant.

Bilirubin
Feb 16, 2014

The sanctioned action is to CHUG


So I just picked up my new (used car) and...the tires that are installed, and dealership certified safe, are the wrong size. Door frame specifies 215/55R17. What are installed are 215/60R16. Is this a substantial issue that I should take up with them immediately?

Remote keyless entry on one fob is nonfunctional, and they stated it would have a full tank of gas but they gave me a quarter of a tank, lol

Just want to be sure to complain about everything together.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Bilirubin posted:

So I just picked up my new (used car) and...the tires that are installed, and dealership certified safe, are the wrong size. Door frame specifies 215/55R17. What are installed are 215/60R16. Is this a substantial issue that I should take up with them immediately?

Remote keyless entry on one fob is nonfunctional, and they stated it would have a full tank of gas but they gave me a quarter of a tank, lol

Just want to be sure to complain about everything together.

Courtesy of https://tiresize.com/calculator/ :



The 16s are a tiny bit smaller (not enough to make a difference), but give you more sidewall. You'll get a softer ride than the 17s, but squishier cornering.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber

Bilirubin posted:

So I just picked up my new (used car) and...the tires that are installed, and dealership certified safe, are the wrong size. Door frame specifies 215/55R17. What are installed are 215/60R16. Is this a substantial issue that I should take up with them immediately?

Remote keyless entry on one fob is nonfunctional, and they stated it would have a full tank of gas but they gave me a quarter of a tank, lol

Just want to be sure to complain about everything together.

The tire size you read off the door jamb is for 17 wheels. The metal part. You have 16 wheels. They may have been swapped, or just offered at a different trim level.

DildenAnders
Mar 16, 2016

"I recommend Batman especially, for he tends to transcend the abysmal society in which he's found himself. His morality is rather rigid, also. I rather respect Batman.”
2002 Honda Civic, car has an ABS light on (no other dash lights, including CEL). Bought a code reader from autozone (Innova 3040RS) that claims to read/clear ABS codes. When I access the "Honda ABS" module on the reader, I get the message "No ABS DTCs are presently stored in the vehicles computer."

What the gently caress am I doing wrong here? Does this reader not actually read ABS codes? I also have a pending EVAP code which has yet to trigger the CEL, could that have something to do with it? For what it's worth, there is no appreciable change in how the car is driving. I'd like to at least figure out the code myself.

Bilirubin
Feb 16, 2014

The sanctioned action is to CHUG


Deteriorata posted:

Courtesy of https://tiresize.com/calculator/ :



The 16s are a tiny bit smaller (not enough to make a difference), but give you more sidewall. You'll get a softer ride than the 17s, but squishier cornering.

Thanks for this! My partner is all in for as plush a ride as she can get (whereas I want stiff responsive drives but what can you do)

Apparently this is an approved size from Honda too, just wish ranges of ok wheel and tire sizes were included in the owners manual which just repeats the information on the door jam

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

DildenAnders posted:

2002 Honda Civic, car has an ABS light on (no other dash lights, including CEL). Bought a code reader from autozone (Innova 3040RS) that claims to read/clear ABS codes. When I access the "Honda ABS" module on the reader, I get the message "No ABS DTCs are presently stored in the vehicles computer."

What the gently caress am I doing wrong here? Does this reader not actually read ABS codes? I also have a pending EVAP code which has yet to trigger the CEL, could that have something to do with it? For what it's worth, there is no appreciable change in how the car is driving. I'd like to at least figure out the code myself.

Have you checked your brake fluid level? A lot of vehicles will throw their ABS light up when the fluid is below a certain level. Could be a busted brake line or similar.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Are there any AI experts wrt vinyl wraps and where to order materials and tools?

I want to take a shot at wrapping the windshield trim, roof, buttresses, and maybe mirror caps on my RF Miata like this guy did. (Although, my RF is all black, and I would wrap the entire roof, not just the "rails".)

The guy who did this car said he used one of the 3M products in an "anthracite" color.


PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



neogeo0823 posted:

Can I please get a recommendation for a portable AC unit for my 2010 Honda Civic? The actual AC died like 3 years ago, and I'm sick of not having $600 to spare to fix it when we start getting the 90F days. I see that prices range from ~$50 to ~$500, and I'd like to lean cheaper, preferably under $200, if able.

Where in general, do you reside?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



DildenAnders posted:

2002 Honda Civic, car has an ABS light on (no other dash lights, including CEL). Bought a code reader from autozone (Innova 3040RS) that claims to read/clear ABS codes. When I access the "Honda ABS" module on the reader, I get the message "No ABS DTCs are presently stored in the vehicles computer."

What the gently caress am I doing wrong here?

Nothing. It's a known issue, not serious, and can be cleared in a few minutes with a paper clip or home-made jumper:

https://myquantumdiscovery.com/honda-abs-vsa-dash-lights-stay-on-easy-fault-reset-procedure

I did this on a 2001 Accord for my son's friend. My son has the same issue on his 2000 but it passes NJ state inspection with it on, so he hasn't prioritized clearing it yet.

Twerk from Home
Jan 17, 2009

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

PainterofCrap posted:

Where in general, do you reside?

I knew a family of Canadians that all drove cars with broken A/C and relocated to Texas but refused to fix any of the broken A/C despite having the means because it's an unnecessary luxury in cars.

neogeo0823
Jul 4, 2007

NO THAT'S NOT ME!!

PainterofCrap posted:

Where in general, do you reside?

Western New York, near Lake Erie. Why?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Because I could fix it for the cost of the parts. Done two since May.

My wife's family are in Buffalo (Cheektowaga) & Rochester, but she'd kill me if I slipped off during a visit for a little A/C repair (as much fun as that would be). Sadly, we live near Philadelphia.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

MetaJew posted:

Are there any AI experts wrt vinyl wraps and where to order materials and tools?

I want to take a shot at wrapping the windshield trim, roof, buttresses, and maybe mirror caps on my RF Miata like this guy did. (Although, my RF is all black, and I would wrap the entire roof, not just the "rails".)

The guy who did this car said he used one of the 3M products in an "anthracite" color.




so you wanna wrap your Miata RF to look like a mid-2000s Vauxhall?

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Ok Comboomer posted:

so you wanna wrap your Miata RF to look like a mid-2000s Vauxhall?

That is one interpretation, here is another:



By no means am I suggesting my car is a Ferrari. It just seems like a kind of fun thing to try my hand at and I did not want a black car when I found this one.... But the quotes I've gotten for a color change vinyl wrap are upwards of $5k in my city.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


MetaJew posted:

By no means am I suggesting my car is a Ferrari. It just seems like a kind of fun thing to try my hand at and I did not want a black car when I found this one.... But the quotes I've gotten for a color change vinyl wrap are upwards of $5k in my city.

It's your car, do what you want and ignore anyone that says otherwise (for the most part). Prep of the surface before applying the wrap is just as, if not more, important than putting down the wrap. Ideally you do a full detail with clay bar on the area right before wrapping to give it a clean surface to adhere to. Don't but the cheap vinyl, buy more than you need, and take your time.

The reason full color change is so expensive is that most of the time it includes going over the entire car with a clay bar essentially doing a full detail as well as partial disassembly of the car. It's a lot of labor hours to do it right.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
is there a way to check water damage on the floor pan without literally pulling out the interior and pulling up the rug?

My dads Cabrio has been getting regularly soaked and/or flooded in the drivers footwell for probably the better part of ten-fifteen years and hes been ignoring it like an idiot the entire time and now I have to figure out if the loving car is even worth fixing up.

FWIW it seems solid if I stamp around on it and it looked fine from below the other day when the car was getting a full catback replacement, but without being able to actually look at the metal under the carpet I cant tell, right?

He wont let me cut it and I really really am not set up to do an interior teardown/rebuild on this loving thing.

If I can get it all fully dried out and we fix the leak (its from a goddamn gap in the convertible trimwhich is to say, totally fixable if somebody had wanted to do it) we shouldnt have any corrosion problems, right? Is it even worth pulling up the rug to have a look if nothing external seems apparent?

Shard
Jul 30, 2005

Please forgive the post from my own Twitter but does anyone know what this is? I was driving and heard a fast series of bangs and had to pull over. I thought my tire blew out. I didn't see this in the road so I'm thinking it came from under my car. Anyone know what it is?

https://twitter.com/Shard01464880/status/1677313479433154562?t=6c-D-qGpmFM_KJB036pwiw&s=19

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Shard posted:

Please forgive the post from my own Twitter but does anyone know what this is? I was driving and heard a fast series of bangs and had to pull over. I thought my tire blew out. I didn't see this in the road so I'm thinking it came from under my car. Anyone know what it is?

https://twitter.com/Shard01464880/status/1677313479433154562?t=6c-D-qGpmFM_KJB036pwiw&s=19
Is that oil behind the wheel on the ground? If yes then oof, that's your bigger problem.

This could be a piece of the undertray that came off. There was probably something on the road that you ran over to cause this.

E: yeah could be the fender liner too though it looks suspiciously straight.
vvv

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Shard posted:

Please forgive the post from my own Twitter but does anyone know what this is? I was driving and heard a fast series of bangs and had to pull over. I thought my tire blew out. I didn't see this in the road so I'm thinking it came from under my car. Anyone know what it is?

https://twitter.com/Shard01464880/status/1677313479433154562?t=6c-D-qGpmFM_KJB036pwiw&s=19

Looks like the fender liner. It got caught at the front edge and folded up accordion-style.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Deteriorata posted:

Looks like the fender liner. It got caught at the front edge and folded up accordion-style.

If I had to guess, OP's tire blew out and took part of the fender liner with it. I don't see oil or any fluids on the ground, it should be a pretty straightforward fix. If you bought all your tires at the same time, you probably want to replace them all. The way that tire failed is pretty grody. The fender liner might be savable, or you might need a new one, but it's just molded plastic.

Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Jul 7, 2023

Shard
Jul 30, 2005

I didn't see any oil when I got out. Everything in the car seems normal other than the tire pressure warning.

I'm putting in a claim but I doubt it'll work. I don't remember hitting anything. Everything seemed normal and then bang

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Ok Comboomer posted:

is there a way to check water damage on the floor pan without literally pulling out the interior and pulling up the rug?

My dads Cabrio has been getting regularly soaked and/or flooded in the drivers footwell for probably the better part of ten-fifteen years and hes been ignoring it like an idiot the entire time and now I have to figure out if the loving car is even worth fixing up.

FWIW it seems solid if I stamp around on it and it looked fine from below the other day when the car was getting a full catback replacement, but without being able to actually look at the metal under the carpet I cant tell, right?

He wont let me cut it and I really really am not set up to do an interior teardown/rebuild on this loving thing.

If I can get it all fully dried out and we fix the leak (its from a goddamn gap in the convertible trimwhich is to say, totally fixable if somebody had wanted to do it) we shouldnt have any corrosion problems, right? Is it even worth pulling up the rug to have a look if nothing external seems apparent?

I would pull the rug. 15 years of pooling water is not kind to any car.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Shard posted:

I didn't see any oil when I got out. Everything in the car seems normal other than the tire pressure warning.

I'm putting in a claim but I doubt it'll work. I don't remember hitting anything. Everything seemed normal and then bang

Oh that's good then, the black stuff on the ground is probably the inside of the liner then.

Shard
Jul 30, 2005

mobby_6kl posted:

Oh that's good then, the black stuff on the ground is probably the inside of the liner then.

It's the pieces of the tire and the inside of the tire. It split open like a walnut. I can see the inside of the river and the threading

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Hughmoris
Apr 21, 2007
Let's go to the abyss!
Life is currently kicking me in the nuts and I need some help.

I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic with the 1.8L and I'm trying to replace the hose that runs from the throttle body to thermostat housing pipe. A goon helped me out identifying the part earlier in this thread, and a tutorial of the replacement is here.

I need to remove the air intake hose to give myself more room (as per the video). My problem is that I can't get the air intake hose off because the screw for the clamp is on the backside and I can't get my hands or limited tools in there. Below are photos showing what I need to do. Excuse the quality because my phone also decided to suddenly die this week so I'm using an old cracked phone.

I have an Auto Parts store, and a Home Depot near by, so I can go buy any tools I need. My problem is that I don't know what I don't know.

If someone could give me some advice on how to approach this problem, and what tools I can go buy to make this easier, I'd truly appreciate it.

Are mobile car mechanics a thing, where I can pay a shop to come out and replace it?

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply