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occluded posted:Heya mini thread! As I near middle age I’ve been hearing the call of painting again - have been playing with an airbrush to do gunpla but am super inspired by all your great work and also amazing painters on tiktok I dunno how the fiddly factor is on them ( I need to get some to try), but Wargames Atlantic has an alien bug kit and 30 bugs for a bit over $30 sounds good to me
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Jul 7, 2023 13:11
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Oh man Corax White is my current source of white paint. I bought the hobby starter kit and while the pliers are actually better than my gunpla ones some of these colours are kinda gross. What happened to throwing in some snakebite leather or blood red? I'll be bookmarking this page for undercoat advice 
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Jul 7, 2023 13:45
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Shoehead posted:Oh man Corax White is my current source of white paint. I bought the hobby starter kit and while the pliers are actually better than my gunpla ones some of these colours are kinda gross. What happened to throwing in some snakebite leather or blood red? People sometimes ask about various paint starter sets in this thread and my take on the current GW one is that its pretty decent.... as long as what you want to paint is the figures in the box and the way you want to paint them is the same colours they are on the box. No brown, no grey, no ivory, no green, the caucasian flesh colour in the box is hella pink (and no flesh shade wash, and one tiny pot of brown wash). Sure you can mix browns and greys with what you get but for a starter set its nice to be able to go "the wooden spear hafts are all this colour" without having to mix poo poo. Its not bad value or anything, the paints you get are by and large good paints (corax white is good enough for mixing at least!), theres some great ones in there (I personally love runelord brass and tesseract glow, and gun metal is gun metal, with a silver to highlight your steel and gold). Its just a baffling selection of colours to put together as a "starter set".
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Jul 7, 2023 14:29
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For basic colors, the "Vallejo Model Color Wargames Basics Acrylic Paint Set (8 pack)" is pretty good. 8 dropper bottles; Black, white, yellow, orange, brown, blue, and silver. My only gripe with it is that it should have red instead of orange.
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Jul 7, 2023 14:44
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So I accidentally primed some Kroot black (I normally prime grey) but want their skin to be like the vibrant neon green that GW orks have. What are some vibrant greens I can use from Vallejo/reaper and would I just need to be patient at painting a lot of layers? I already painted bases and will workaround the black primer to try and get the other colors. Will it just be easiest to go ahead with a couple coats of grey first and work from there?
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Jul 7, 2023 15:39
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I really appreciate all the helpful posts. I will be painting something intentionally white someday soon, like face masks on other Orks and Death Korps, and I'll be happy to have the advice on painting white. GW Corax White from a starter kit is exactly what I'm using. The miniature is primed but with a grey that I found frustratingly difficult to tell apart from unprimed plastic. GW Mechanicus Grey. I've been terrified of applying over-thick paint coats so I erred on the side of less primer and decided it was probably (?) sufficiently primed when I could feel paint texture on the nigh-indistinguishable miniature. He presently looks like this after I decided to charge ahead and apply Trollslayer Orange (currently at two coats, orange is desired jacket color). I think I can get this looking decent with another coat? I thought, well, I am scared of over thick coats but this is also a learning experiment and if it goes badly I can invoke that nuclear option isopropyl alcohol.  For the other orange jackets I intend to paint I think I'll try a base coat of Averland Sunset mixed with Corax White instead. I figure yellow should also brighten the final result and if yellow peeks through orange in any way, that is actually a desired visual effect. Again, thanks to each poster for all the help.
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Jul 7, 2023 16:05
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SuperKlaus posted:I really appreciate all the helpful posts. I will be painting something intentionally white someday soon, like face masks on other Orks and Death Korps, and I'll be happy to have the advice on painting white. GW Corax White from a starter kit is exactly what I'm using. Do you have Bugmans Glow from the starter or maybe a light brown yellowish paint like Balor Brown? I feel like they would work a bit better as a base under orange.
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Jul 7, 2023 16:20
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Chill la Chill posted:So I accidentally primed some Kroot black (I normally prime grey) but want their skin to be like the vibrant neon green that GW orks have. What are some vibrant greens I can use from Vallejo/reaper and would I just need to be patient at painting a lot of layers? I already painted bases and will workaround the black primer to try and get the other colors. Will it just be easiest to go ahead with a couple coats of grey first and work from there? Drybrush them white, then paint like you otherwise would. If you really want a hyper vibrant green the striking scorpion contrast is obscenely bright if it goes over a near-white Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Jul 7, 2023 |
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Jul 7, 2023 16:33
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Chill la Chill posted:So I accidentally primed some Kroot black (I normally prime grey) but want their skin to be like the vibrant neon green that GW orks have. What are some vibrant greens I can use from Vallejo/reaper and would I just need to be patient at painting a lot of layers? I already painted bases and will workaround the black primer to try and get the other colors. Will it just be easiest to go ahead with a couple coats of grey first and work from there? Vallejo Game Color has some Heavy paints that are meant for good initial coverage like the of Citadel Foundation line (They're even color-matched to the old paints because I think Vallejo wanted to bid on supplying them at some point?) - the Heavy Field Grey is pretty green and might help?
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Jul 7, 2023 16:35
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Spanish Manlove posted:Drybrush them white, then paint like you otherwise would. If you really want a hyper vibrant green the striking scorpion contrast is obscenely bright if it goes over a near-white Seconding this, even if you seem to want to avoid GW paints, striking scorpion contrast is really great, you get sickening shaded neon apple colour in one coat.
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Jul 7, 2023 17:36
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Has anyone tried AK interactives fine resin primer? I just noticed it exists while casually browsing different primer options and I can’t find any review of it that explains in what way it’s super special for resin. As an aside have stynylrez fixed their stuff yet? I got burned badly by bad batches when they were messing around with the formula but the original stuff was my favourite airbrush primer.
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Jul 7, 2023 19:58
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Shoehead posted:At home and my brother mentioned there was a load of models still in the attic so we had a look. Found an old toolbox full of bits. Things hadn't weathered so well in it and old bits of poly cement had yellowed, but I did manage to snag this guy: I dunno why I wrote a whole giant effortpost for stripping paint but here it is. First off, if the models are filthy, wash them with regular dish soap and a dish towel. Hand-safe dish soap won't damage any models as long as you don't break out an abrasive scrubber. It's not that solvents can't wash these off but it's just pointless contamination. Regardless of what solvent you use, the basic process is the same. For handling, you want gloves (latex/rubber is always fine, nitrile almost always), and always do this in an area with active circulation or outdoors. If you're inside and can smell what you're using but can't hear the circulation, that's probably not somewhere you should be doing this. If the solvent won't destroy the actual model, let it soak while fully immersed in a sealed container for about an hour, overnight, or a couple of days, depending on the strength of the solvent and the paint used. If the solvent will destroy the model, either let it soak for 5-15 minutes (probably best to test with scrap material) or go straight to the active cleaning. If there's some part that will be actually destroyed by the solvent that you don't care about (eg bases, the plastic parts of an old mixed metal/plastic Warhammer model), it's probably best to break most of it off as early as possible. If you can't, check daily and get the ruined part out of the soak as soon as it's easy to break off. Whether or not you soak, the actual cleaning process is the same. Get a brush with firm flexible bristles, like a toothbrush or nylon brush. (The firmer the bristles, the lighter the touch.) You're mainly looking to push the paint off of the model, since scrubbing can lead to an uneven coat of leftover paint that smooths out all the details, or actually abrade the details of the model itself. Dab on more solvent with the brush as you go. (If the solvent will damage the model, make sure to dab it off with a paper towel after.) Once you've gotten all of the loose paint off, you can soak again if necessary. Once you're done, all of the solvents you should actually use evaporate in open air, so just let the model sit in a well-circulated or outdoor place. As for picking solvents: If you need to strip acrylic paint (pretty much any water- or alcohol-based paint), your best bet IMO is isopropyl alcohol, ideally 90% or 99%. You can get it in a pharmacy. (If you have them on hand, other high-concentration alcohols - methyl/ated or "denatured" alcohol, distilled spirits, everclear - can work, just not as well.) Alcohols are nonreactive with everything models are commonly made of except resin, so it won't destroy detail unless you physically abrade it off. It's also pretty much the least toxic popular choice for stripping model paint except some of the non-toxic patent cleaners. Still, use nitrile/rubber gloves and do it outdoors or in a place with active circulation. Alcohols can be disposed of by letting them evaporate (outside!) or at paint disposal sites. (Recycling centers can often do this.) If you filter out the paint residue, most alcohols can also be dumped down the drain if you dilute them as you do, so like pouring slowly into a fully running sink or dumping them in the toilet. Concentrated alcohol or a significant amount of solid paint residue are bad for household pipes, though, and you really don't want to be dumping isopropyl into a septic system. Solid paint residue separated from the solvent is just trash. Alcohols pretty much never attack their containers, either. If it's not acrylic paint, you will need something harsher. Unfortunately, all of these react with styrene plastic (and most other soft thermoplastics used in miniatures and model kits). However, all of these are safe for metal models and still work to remove acrylic paint, so if you want to skip straight to the harsh stuff because you have it on hand and already know how to handle it, be my guest. Anything from here on down generally needs to be disposed of at a paint or toxic household waste disposal site. Dumping them into a sewer system or regular trash is very stupid and may even be illegal. Turpentine (not "mineral turpentine" or "odorless turpentine", the real thing) is the traditional paint thinner, and usually what people mean when they say "paint thinner" with no other qualifications. It's your best bet for removing pretty much any hobby paint, and most other paints someone might've put on a model. However, it will react with most plastics that model kits are made out of, particularly styrene, the thermoplastic most wargame models are made of. In particular, Testors, Revell, and Tamiya all have enamel lines that are or were popular for hobby paint and model kits. Turpentine is a good balance of being actually harsh enough to work quickly without being so harsh that it's guaranteed to cause damage. You can dab, brush, and dab off on plastic models without causing too much damage. It's also similar to alcohol in that you can filter it, dispose of it by letting it evaporate outside, and in that any turpentine-soiled trash can be dried outside and then just tossed out normally. Alternately, you can just treat it as toxic waste. Note that clear containers of turpentine in the sun or bags full of turpentine-contaminated trash are both spontaneous ignition hazards. They are literally oil-soaked rags. Acetone (non-odorless nail polish remover) is the magic bullet of last resort. It will dissolve basically any paint, basically any hobby plastic, and break down basically any hobby glue. It's the go-to to clean a model fouled with superglue, too. However, it also attacks nitrile gloves and quite a few kinds of plastic container. You can usually buy it at any pharmacy or grocery store or department store as nail polish remover, but try to get 100% acetone since there are other solvents used in some nail polish removers. (And "odorless nail polish remover" is not acetone at all.) You can also occasionally get it as glue remover, although there are a few other common solvents sold under that name. The main reason you'd need acetone is because someone used lacquer paint, a spray paint/varnish intended for actual cars or outdoor furniture, or something completely bizarre like house paint or nail polish. (There are hobby lacquer paints from companies like Tamiya or AK but they're mainly aimed at model cars or RC/drone vehicles, which are made from different plastics.) Any plastic model with a paint like this is a writeoff unless you can just paint over it. When working with it, do it outside or with an actual fume hood, and wear actual rubber/latex gloves. (Again, acetone dissolves nitrile.) The actual acetone in the container it was sold in is a hazard but pretty typical household one, on par with camping fuel or spraycans. Don't keep it somewhere hot, don't leave it in the sun. If you need a new container, metal, glass and HDPE (recycle #2) plastic are nonreactive, and an opaque container is better. It attacks a number of common kinds of plastic, including recycle #1 and #3. While HDPE itself is fine, other plastics with that same sort of milk-jug texture generally aren't. You technically can filter acetone to reuse it, but that means a lot more tools you need to check for safety and more contaminated trash, and unlike weaker solvents, it tends to have more dissolved contamination from reaction products. It's not worth it. Contaminated acetone is toxic waste. Acetone-soaked trash is both toxic waste and a spontaneous ignition hazard, like oil-soaked rags. All of that goes to paint disposal sites. Spills in well-ventilated spaces are not a big deal since acetone evaporates (unless it can damage what it was spilled on), but you don't want to dispose of a container of it that way. Isopropyl, turpentine, and acetone aren't your only options. They're just the best ones, since you can get them as pure chemical rather than mixed solutions or secret formulas. Everyone has some sort of home remedy, and most of them can kinda work, if you're willing to work around their disadvantages. First off, there are lots of things that seem like they work but don't actually do anything to paint. You can rub off pretty much any paint with simple mechanical abrasion. These are all basically comparable to soap and water, and you can have some success with some paints, especially older or cheaper acrylics on older unprimed miniatures. Mechanical action always risks abrading or crushing detail if you use too harsh a cleaning surface, do it for too long, or use too much pressure. Actual abrasives are an option. Toothpaste, any gritty household cleaner, a wire brush, or any scraping blade. Obviously, this comes with a risk of damage. Lots of people swear by various nontoxic patented household cleaners. Simple Green is really common but there are others. These usually kind of suck, and need to soak forever. Honestly, I find most people do some of the worst damage with these, because they end up scrubbing to make up for the weaknesses of the solvent. (Plus, you'll want to search online and make sure it doesn't actually dissolve plastic.) Most of them are a mix of some sort of enzyme and/or mild oddball solvent with some kind of surfactant/detergent (soap). Unlike pretty much literally everything here, they are a lot easier to use and dispose of, although you still don't want to pour solid paint residue down your sink unless you want some clogs with interesting colors. Most household cleaning solvents are close to useless. Ammonia and vinegar will dissolve some acrylic paints if you soak them in strong solutions for like a month. Bleach isn't useful. Don't bother. Degreasers usually have some kind of useful solvent, but it can be a crapshoot which, and many of them are secret mixes. There's no general rule but I've never found one worth using. Note that some are dangerous for plastic, like orange degreaser (aka Orange TKO), whose main active ingredient is also sold as plastic cement. Speaking of which, citrus solvent (aka citrus thinner, lots of brand names) is quite bad at dissolving dried paint but very effective at ruining styrene plastic. It's only good for long soaks for metal minis, and is mildly less toxic than turpentine, but not so much you wouldn't still want to take the normal precautions. There are a lot of petroleum-based solvents that can work. These are not one single solvent but a class of them and generally sold as a mixture, so they have lots of names. They're also called white spirits, mineral turpentine, and petroleum spirits. Naphtha solvent is part of this family. Paint thinner or nail polish remover that specifies it isn't turpentine or acetone but doesn't specify what it is, that's also probably a mineral spirit. Odorless paint thinner is also almost always a mineral spirit, albeit a less harsh one. Mineral spirits are usable. They are a bit less effective on paint than turpentine (especially odorless thinner, since the chemicals with harsh smells are the harsh solvents), and they often attack plastic even more aggressively. They do actually work, though, they're just kinda worse all-around compared to proper turpentine. Glycol-ethers are another family of chemicals, and, when they're pure, they all work more or less about as well as turpentine or mineral spirits, while also destroying styrene plastic. (Formaldehyde or glycol as part of a chemical name is a common tell. Alternately, methyl- or ethyl- can be a tell, but methyl and ethyl alcohols are alcohols.) You don't actually want to buy these to use as paint stripper, in any event. They're usually too expensive at a proper concentration, many of them don't evaporate cleanly, and most of the ways they're sold are mixed with other problematic ingredients. I mention them because there are hobby "spot remover", "glue remover", or "paint remover" products that are safe for other kinds of plastic, not the ones generally used in miniatures. Also a lot of One Weird Trick home remedies are something with a high concentration of glycol-ether, like brake fluid or antifreeze. They're just a pain in the rear end and they have no advantages over other options except that you might already own them. Anyone who advises you to use actual fuel is a maniac. Thankfully I don't see this any more, but people used to suggest poo poo like kerosene. Not only is this an incredibly stupid fire hazard, contaminated fuel with paint or melted plastic in it is a pain in the rear end to dispose of and leaves you with a container of fuel that will wreck an engine or stove, if not start a fire. Do not do this. If someone has One Weird Trick that sounds interesting, search for the name of the product and SDS or MSDS. Pretty much every compound that actually works on paint that isn't an abrasive is flammable or toxic, and that means shipping it requires a standardized disclosure sheet. This is a good way to figure out what is actually in something before you go and dunk a model in it. Edit: I forgot ultrasonic cleaners. They work, even the ones made for silverware, jewelry, or dentures. They are technically mechanical rather than chemical, but they won't generally damage detail. However, do not put flammable solvents in household ultrasonic cleaners. This includes alcohol, even though lots of idiots will tell you to put isopropyl in one. It works! It can also explode. Do not clean your minis with a bomb. There are explosion-proof industrial cleaners that are certified to not spark and you can use those with solvents, but generally they're not consumer-oriented as far as I know. Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Jul 12, 2023 |
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Jul 7, 2023 20:09
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^ effort posts always enrich threads Majkol posted:One or two light coats should probably do it rn. I do have Bugman's Glow. I had not considered using that. SuperKlaus fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Jul 7, 2023 |
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Jul 7, 2023 20:53
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Something I forgot (but added to the export post): ultrasonic cleaners work, even the ones made for silverware, jewelry, or dentures. They are technically mechanical rather than chemical, but they won't generally damage detail. However, do not put flammable solvents in household ultrasonic cleaners. This includes alcohol, even though lots of idiots will tell you to put isopropyl in one. It works! It can also explode. Do not clean your minis with a bomb. There are explosion-proof industrial cleaners that are certified to not spark and you can use those with solvents, but generally they're not consumer-oriented as far as I know.
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Jul 7, 2023 21:10
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I finished my regimental attaché proxies (from the Starstrider kill team). They'll do for now, though the Starstriders are a slightly larger scale than my old infantry models. It was unexpected, since the Kriegers are pretty much the same size as my old Cadians. The whole advisor team, including an old Master of Ordnance I converted years ago.  Closeups of the new dudes. I really like the models, very cool considering their simplified assembly.  
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Jul 7, 2023 21:11
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Cthulu Carl posted:I dunno how the fiddly factor is on them ( I need to get some to try), but Wargames Atlantic has an alien bug kit and 30 bugs for a bit over $30 sounds good to me I was midway through a post recommending these. WA have some pretty good detailed sculpts in a lot of ranges. I can also recommend the Stargrave minis for similarly inexpensive aliens and cyborgs and stuff.
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Jul 7, 2023 23:00
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Hoping for advice, I bought this terrain set https://deathraydesigns.com/product/killing-grounds-navis-mortim-bundle/ and was wondering what would be the best way to paint / color these pieces? I'm also considering just leaving them be. Out of the box they are just a plain wood looking color because they are made out of engineered wood, and what is shown on the website is colored / painted.
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Jul 8, 2023 00:59
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 Finding my love of Thousand Sons again. Vallejo Metal Colour is great, and I'm getting over my hangups about using the airbrush. I now need to decide if I want to risk it all to airbrush a magic glow on his hand-eye. I did find a lot of parts dropped off the unit at various points. I've been using Plastic Magic Glue because Pete The Wargamer uses it and I wanted one with a brush, should I use something with a dropper for stuff like these to create more context? The PMG can dry very quickly, like before you can pick up the part and apply it, although I checked the models before taking them to spray, then heads and arms started coming free when I was out there.
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Jul 8, 2023 01:19
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I said come in! posted:Hoping for advice, I bought this terrain set https://deathraydesigns.com/product/killing-grounds-navis-mortim-bundle/ and was wondering what would be the best way to paint / color these pieces? I'm also considering just leaving them be. Out of the box they are just a plain wood looking color because they are made out of engineered wood, and what is shown on the website is colored / painted. Ash from GMG did a decent looking paint up of his Into the Dark set doing a scheme with a two rattle can method of brown and blue spray paints and some drybrushing and detailing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJ0_xEg27YI I think Death Ray has videos suggesting a similar method but different colors for other kits of theirs
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Jul 8, 2023 01:20
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I said come in! posted:Hoping for advice, I bought this terrain set https://deathraydesigns.com/product/killing-grounds-navis-mortim-bundle/ and was wondering what would be the best way to paint / color these pieces? I'm also considering just leaving them be. Out of the box they are just a plain wood looking color because they are made out of engineered wood, and what is shown on the website is colored / painted. Neon pink and blue
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Jul 8, 2023 01:28
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Spanish Manlove posted:Neon pink and blue This is also a valid answer. For questions about any paint scheme, really.
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Jul 8, 2023 01:34
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Cthulu Carl posted:Ash from GMG did a decent looking paint up of his Into the Dark set doing a scheme with a two rattle can method of brown and blue spray paints and some drybrushing and detailing: Thank you! This is very helpful. I love the pieces he is showing in this video, they look so cool!
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Jul 8, 2023 01:55
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Chill la Chill posted:So I accidentally primed some Kroot black (I normally prime grey) but want their skin to be like the vibrant neon green that GW orks have. What are some vibrant greens I can use from Vallejo/reaper and would I just need to be patient at painting a lot of layers? I already painted bases and will workaround the black primer to try and get the other colors. Will it just be easiest to go ahead with a couple coats of grey first and work from there? Vallejo Jade green and Foul green are delightfully saturated. You might also want to look into Liquitex Emerald green gouache. It's not quite as vibrant, but it's really pigment dense and a good green base for just about anything. Also, it smells really nice.
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Jul 8, 2023 02:06
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grassy gnoll posted:Liquitex Emerald green gouache The acrylic gouache? I've used this before and I liked it. Takes a little more work to thin, but went on pretty nice
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Jul 8, 2023 02:18
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Cthulu Carl posted:The acrylic gouache? I've used this before and I liked it. Takes a little more work to thin, but went on pretty nice The same. The white isn't hair bad, and the purple is great.
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Jul 8, 2023 02:29
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Xpost from 40k thread.Axetrain posted:Neurotyrant done, pretty glad I went with this paint scheme.
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Jul 8, 2023 03:28
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I found the meme paint! https://twitter.com/dana_howl/status/1501686861764431884?s=20  (seriously both the hobby shops in my city I use have been sold out for over a year) edit: I also have deck tan and iraqi sand because I'm nothing if not a follower.
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Jul 8, 2023 05:08
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  Calling this guy finished. Happy with the end result! Used a bunch of techniques I'm still new to, like NMM everywhere. I think it came out pretty good for the most part, some areas could technically be smoother but I have to call it quits and move onto other projects. Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Jul 8, 2023 |
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Jul 8, 2023 05:41
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Oh cool I'm posting after Verisimilidude tonight. I am calling this Terminator from the Leviathan box finished as well!        
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Jul 8, 2023 05:47
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  Helbrute
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Jul 8, 2023 10:40
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Going to pop in to say those last three posts are incredible, amazing work folks! The stuff in this thread is always so insanely good and we all just scroll by it like it wasn't there.
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Jul 8, 2023 14:31
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I'd like to try and ape that red and the banner fold effect when I get around to painting Corsairs for KT.
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Jul 8, 2023 16:41
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Geisladisk posted:
Really nailed that inflamed ulcerated look! Amazing.
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Jul 8, 2023 18:17
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Any advice for gluing minis to a rock? I have some skipping rocks I snagged at the lake recently I figured would be good tactical rocks for basing, and I would rather avoid priming/painting them out of laziness and since they look decent enough as is, but I’m not sure how to get my models to stick to them. Standard CA glue? PVA? Hot glue?
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Jul 8, 2023 18:41
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Arcturas posted:Any advice for gluing minis to a rock? I have some skipping rocks I snagged at the lake recently I figured would be good tactical rocks for basing, and I would rather avoid priming/painting them out of laziness and since they look decent enough as is, but I’m not sure how to get my models to stick to them. Standard CA glue? PVA? Hot glue? CA glue would be the standard method.
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Jul 8, 2023 19:26
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Super glue is what I'd use yeah. If there's any way to pin the model, you might want to do that too (like make a fake rock out of epoxy and stick it down alongside the real rocks and pin one foot to that)
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Jul 8, 2023 19:27
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Arcturas posted:Any advice for gluing minis to a rock? I have some skipping rocks I snagged at the lake recently I figured would be good tactical rocks for basing, and I would rather avoid priming/painting them out of laziness and since they look decent enough as is, but I’m not sure how to get my models to stick to them. Standard CA glue? PVA? Hot glue? Other, more secure options would be a dab of UV resin or 2 part epoxy. CA is good for general purpose but it doesn't have the shear strength to hold if your rock is a funny shape and there isn't enough surface area to bond.
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Jul 8, 2023 20:35
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So, aside from one off buys like my Imperial Fist contrast paint, I have a starting set of Vallejo Game Color. That shouldn't be...terrible, right? I'm trying to apply the black to white undercoated bolt guns and it's going on like a glaze? I applied some water to the paint, and it's a wet palate, did I maybe just apply way too much water? It's so thin it looks like a homemade contrast paint over the white. In fact it looks quite a lot like the speeder painter grey I applied on some earlier guns.
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Jul 8, 2023 20:58
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You might have put in too much water, but most likely you need to shake the poo poo out of it. However you choose to agitate your paints, do it for a normal length of time, and then do that again. It just takes a while to knock some stuff back into solution.
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Jul 8, 2023 21:36
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6-8mm hematite beads make for great agitators in stubborn paint. I have some in all of my larger bottles.
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Jul 8, 2023 22:06
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