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Yeah n95 works wonders and I was still able to breathe last time around when I had to ride the bike, but didn't push it too hard. This time around, I'm just going to wait it out and not get any exercise. Coming off what feels like almost solid weeks of thunderstorms too
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Jun 29, 2023 22:12
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I'll recommend 3M Auras (9210, 9205, other models with exhale valves) for cycling. Airflow is great and they stay sealed even when I have my mouth open gulping air
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Jun 29, 2023 22:59
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The Auras are great. They're fairly reusable too, although airflow through the mask declines pretty rapidly after extended use. Usually at the airport I'll put one on that I'd used previously for a flight, and then when I get on the plane I'll put on a new one and the additional flow on the new one is immediately obvious.
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Jun 29, 2023 23:15
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Things are clearing up here, thank the gods. Still smoky, but nowhere near as bad as it was Tuesday. Also, hello new bags: 
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Jun 30, 2023 04:23
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just picked up a step-thru Huffy Thunder Ridge for  (I prolly overpaid, lol) to hopefully turn into a “tooling around town and cruising” bikeIt emergently needs new tires/tubes and a chain, and secondarily it could do with new grips, pedals, and probably cables/housings. Also maybe a saddle but that’s w/e any reason I should spend $20-30 on a Shimano 6/7/8 speed chain vs $9 on something like this https://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-Bicy...807339163&th=1?
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Jul 1, 2023 02:56
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Ok Comboomer posted:just picked up a step-thru Huffy Thunder Ridge for Naw, not unless you're planning to show off your Huffy utility bike to racers with ceramic bearings. Especially since there's a really good chance the chainring or freewheel are worn down and will immediately stretch out the chain. You better post a photo when it's put together. You know how I get about photos. cruft fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Jul 1, 2023 |
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Jul 1, 2023 03:52
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maybe an even dumber question: how feasible would it be to mate an unknown 3x6 old school mountain bike cassette and crank (ie keeping the original wheels and crankset) with something like Shimano Tourney 3x6 derailleur and shifters? Seems like at least the chain might be compatible?
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Jul 2, 2023 19:14
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Ok Comboomer posted:maybe an even dumber question: how feasible would it be to mate an unknown 3x6 old school mountain bike cassette and crank (ie keeping the original wheels and crankset) with something like Shimano Tourney 3x6 derailleur and shifters? It will all work. If everyone was using 6-speed transmissions these compatibility questions wouldn't even come up.
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Jul 2, 2023 20:23
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SimonSays posted:It will all work. If everyone was using 6-speed transmissions these compatibility questions wouldn't even come up. 3x6... 18... *looks at 13spd Ekar* we've been had
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Jul 2, 2023 20:29
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SimonSays posted:It will all work. If everyone was using 6-speed transmissions these compatibility questions wouldn't even come up. kicking rad. this project has just doubled in scope but the end result is gonna be a sick bike can somebody who understands group components explain to me what the difference between all of these Shimano derailleurs is? Is it just cosmetics? I’ve been on the shimano site itself and various other places and I really can’t tease it out beyond the obvious long/short reach ones, etc. I’m just posting this Amazon store because it’s an easy way to see a bunch of them side-to-side https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Dera...ByABEgIU7vD_BwE some of these are direct mount and others are hanger mount. Ignore that for the time being. Actually here’s the Shimano Tourney page with the rear derailleurs on it: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney.html trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Jul 2, 2023 |
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Jul 2, 2023 20:52
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Ok Comboomer posted:kicking rad. this project has just doubled in scope but the end result is gonna be a sick bike Get an RD-M310, it will work with whatever you've got going on, and you won't have to worry about it again. It'll index anywhere from six to eight cogs. If you can find a stamped steel RD-TY18 in a drawer somewhere, go for it, but it's not going to work any different.
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Jul 2, 2023 21:48
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SimonSays posted:Get an RD-M310, it will work with whatever you've got going on, and you won't have to worry about it again. It'll index anywhere from six to eight cogs. If you can find a stamped steel RD-TY18 in a drawer somewhere, go for it, but it's not going to work any different. it seems to be much higher quality than the tourney ones (people seem to really hate those, esp the vintage-looking ones), but are you sure I won’t have issues getting it to work right with 6sp? Lots of conflicting info out there, but a lot of accounts seemingly telling me it won’t work
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Jul 2, 2023 22:47
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Ok Comboomer posted:it seems to be much higher quality than the tourney ones (people seem to really hate those, esp the vintage-looking ones), but are you sure I won’t have issues getting it to work right with 6sp? If you're okay using friction shifters, they'll work with anything. I wind up doing this a lot because I'm incredibly lazy and don't adjust the derailer tension. Friction (no clicks) isn't really as tough as Shimano convinced everyone it is. Especially if you're building the drivetrain up like you are and know what it sounds like when you're not quite lined up.
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Jul 3, 2023 03:34
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cruft posted:If you're okay using friction shifters, they'll work with anything. I wind up doing this a lot because I'm incredibly lazy and don't adjust the derailer tension. (really old and toasty) friction shifters are what it’s got ATM, and if I go with other friction shifters then I can’t use the clicky index brifters that I want to use
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Jul 3, 2023 03:55
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Ok Comboomer posted:(really old and toasty) friction shifters are what it’s got ATM, and if I go with other friction shifters then I can’t use the clicky index brifters that I want to use You found six speed brifters?
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Jul 3, 2023 04:13
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SimonSays posted:You found six speed brifters? https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney/ST-EF41-6R.html $26 for a 3x6 set from Amazon
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Jul 3, 2023 04:31
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Ok Comboomer posted:https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney/ST-EF41-6R.html This should probably move to the bike mech thread but usually we don't refer to those as brifters, which are the road bar ones. Anyway have fun, it's all compatible.
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Jul 3, 2023 12:34
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I have a real dumb plan for the Kombi. Stand by for stupidity once it arrives!
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Jul 4, 2023 01:13
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I just saw the video of the omafietsen in Canada. Holy gently caress. You can literally buy 2 brand new ones for the cost of 1 used one at that shop. You can literally buy 10 usable 2nd hand ones for the cost of 1 used one there. Also, they just suck. They're the most basic transportation method you can get that's faster than walking. The upright position means you can see everything, but the lack of a brake at the front means that your brake distance is pretty drat large if you get any semblance of speed going, like when going down a bridge or whatever. Going into a slight headwind is hard work. Going into a strong headwind is impossible, i've seen enough school kids dismount and walk. They also often have very noodly frames. I've personally seen one with snapped off handle bars and one with a frame that snapped at the brazed connections. You use them because they're cheap, disposable, and you won't care if it gets stolen at the train station. Or you buy them for your kid to ride to school on, so if they break it, it's not the end of the world. I used a backpedal brake city bike with no gears as a mail delivery bicycle cause i didn't care if it would succumb to the weight of heavy bags of mail. Found it dilapidated, rotting away at a bus stop so i liberated it from it's rusty chains, gave it a seat and patched the tires, and used it for a while. But i would never choose to buy such a poo poo bike, not even if it's in like new condition. Cornering while loaded was harrowing. Everything would bend and flex. If you got 500 to spend, just get some wallmart bike and inspect it well before use. Buy literally any other upright commuter bike, and you'll have much more fun. To me it seems like they're trying to whip up a hipster-like hype. But people will be disappointed if they get a 250-euro-when-new piece of poo poo for 500 euro, and find out they're pretty drat wobbly, very slow, and have an excessive brake distance especially in the rain. Buying them for the jankyness factor is fine, some people are masochists like that, same goes for oldtimer cars. But presenting them as a great way to get around is raising expectations way too high. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 12:57 on Jul 10, 2023 |
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Jul 10, 2023 12:52
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Entropist posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_xRWRUoH1A
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Jul 10, 2023 16:22
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LimaBiker posted:Also, they just suck. They're the most basic transportation method you can get that's faster than walking. The upright position means you can see everything, but the lack of a brake at the front means that your brake distance is pretty drat large if you get any semblance of speed going, like when going down a bridge or whatever. Going into a slight headwind is hard work. Going into a strong headwind is impossible, i've seen enough school kids dismount and walk. Expect Entropist's smugly worded rebuke shortly.
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Jul 10, 2023 17:39
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LimaBiker posted:To me it seems like they're trying to whip up a hipster-like hype. But people will be disappointed if they get a 250-euro-when-new piece of poo poo for 500 euro, and find out they're pretty drat wobbly, very slow, and have an excessive brake distance especially in the rain. selling bikes to the same people who watch tiny house YouTubes and nod slack-jawed as somebody describes how they framed up a house with Home Depot lumber on top of a scavenged utility trailer frame
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Jul 10, 2023 19:46
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iospace posted:I have a real dumb plan for the Kombi. The stupidity: a Surly Corner Bar to "drop bar" convert it.  Verdict: good.
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Jul 15, 2023 21:11
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trans bike best bike
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Jul 15, 2023 21:57
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iospace posted:The stupidity: a Surly Corner Bar to "drop bar" convert it. Which width did you get? I was using a carbon AliExpress ripoff for a while and liked it ok. The weight of the real thing, while not a huge fraction of my ebike, was still so unattractive.
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Jul 15, 2023 22:20
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kimbo305 posted:Which width did you get? I was using a carbon AliExpress ripoff for a while and liked it ok. The weight of the real thing, while not a huge fraction of my ebike, was still so unattractive. 50 cm. Only downside is I can't use tall items in the basket anymore, which really was 'my cooler'. So it's been worth it. e: Old cockpit  New:  Did a decent job taping it, but eh, could be better iospace fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Jul 16, 2023 |
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Jul 15, 2023 22:22
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The nice folks at my local co-op gave me a bike (and helmet, locks and lights) yesterday. I haven't ridden a bike since I was 10 and I don't know the first thing about maintenance or anything else. I'll be doing my own research and looking at the links in the OP, but if anyone could recommend me ultra-basic resources for clueless beginners, that would be great!
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Jul 17, 2023 21:22
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Troutful posted:The nice folks at my local co-op gave me a bike (and helmet, locks and lights) yesterday. I haven't ridden a bike since I was 10 and I don't know the first thing about maintenance or anything else. I'll be doing my own research and looking at the links in the OP, but if anyone could recommend me ultra-basic resources for clueless beginners, that would be great! I really like "Anybody's Bike Book" by Tom Cuthbertson. It very much looks like a book from the 1960s, because it is, but it's been updated for newer components. For me, it's been pretty much the only bike maintenance book I need, and it goes from basic "make sure the chain stays lubricated" to "here's how to re-pack the bearings in a head joint".
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Jul 17, 2023 21:38
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Troutful posted:if anyone could recommend me ultra-basic resources for clueless beginners, that would be great! I don't remember without looking if Just Ride by Grant Petersen is in the OP somewhere, but it's a opinionated book on how to ride practically and for fun, with (maybe too much) disdain for sport riding or having cutting edge gear. I think it's a decent counterbalance to a lot of the intimidating and missing-context discussion you see around cycling as a hobby.
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Jul 17, 2023 22:12
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cruft posted:I really like "Anybody's Bike Book" by Tom Cuthbertson. It very much looks like a book from the 1960s, because it is, but it's been updated for newer components. For me, it's been pretty much the only bike maintenance book I need, and it goes from basic "make sure the chain stays lubricated" to "here's how to re-pack the bearings in a head joint". kimbo305 posted:I don't remember without looking if Just Ride by Grant Petersen is in the OP somewhere, but it's a opinionated book on how to ride practically and for fun, with (maybe too much) disdain for sport riding or having cutting edge gear. I think it's a decent counterbalance to a lot of the intimidating and missing-context discussion you see around cycling as a hobby. Thanks folks! My library has both books, so I'll check them out. I went on my first real ride today (~10 miles) and things went pretty smoothly. I have a few more questions if anyone's willing to take a crack at them: 1.) I've heard that you can (or are supposed to?) come to a stop by braking and then leaning to one side so one foot falls flat on the ground. I've tried to do this, but I think my seat is *just* high enough that I can't put my foot down without toppling over -- at best, I can touch the ground with my toes, which feels wobbly. I've been dismounting my bike from one side like a horse when I need to stop. Should I try to lower my seat so I can straddle the bike with one foot on the ground? 2.) My bike is faster than I expected and I'm braking a lot on descents. That's okay to do, right? Do I need to be concerned about "riding" my brakes? 3.) My wrists hurt. Besides loosening my death grip on the handlebars, any tips for dealing with this? I might fiddle with the handlebar height and see if that helps. A photo of the bike, IDK if it's good or anything, this was given to me along with a pile of accessories for  
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Jul 19, 2023 03:38
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That is an extremely dope $20 commuter.
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Jul 19, 2023 03:44
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Troutful posted:Thanks folks! My library has both books, so I'll check them out. I went on my first real ride today (~10 miles) and things went pretty smoothly. I have a few more questions if anyone's willing to take a crack at them: Congrats, it's a delightful commuter! 1. You mostly just slide forward off the seat at a stop. 2. Hills are why the good Lord gave us brakes, you're doing fine. 3. Gloves can help with the death grip, but mostly you want your wrists to stay straight, with your hands in a line with your forearms. Rotating the brake levers a few degrees is normal to get the fit right for your wrists, since someone of a different height will be contacting the handlebars at a different angle.
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Jul 19, 2023 04:08
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1: probably leave the saddle tall. Many inexperienced riders have their saddle too low, this saps power and can lead to knee pain. Dismounting like the horse is cool, I do it too but usually only when i'm done riding. Try scooting forward off the saddle when stopping to reach the ground instead. Grabbing hold of a solid object can also be a valid technique to stay upright. 2. Riding the brakes is okay if you feel like you're going too fast, that's what they're for. Your tolerance for speed will increase with experience. 3. Wrist pain is complicated. It might just be the death gripping, might be otherwise newbie related, might be you need to mess with the handlebar to find comfort. Having discomfort in wrists and butt is common when starting out, or during a longer ride than normal for pretty much everyone really. There's good and normal pain which will go decrease by sticking with it and there's bad pain that signals a real problem which needs fixing or it will only get worse. E: Yes, wearing gloves is a great idea for several reasons.
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Jul 19, 2023 04:17
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I'm going to buck trends and advise you to lower the saddle until you feel more at ease on the bike. Raising the saddle will help you be more efficient and not worn out as quickly, but it feels sort of scary until you're accustomed to riding. Lower it for now, with a goal of raising it if you find yourself needing to go faster or not feel as tired. And then, yes, do what the posters above said to get off the saddle. On my commuter the saddle is real low because I'm lazy and want to stay seated at stops. Edit: EvilJoven posted:That is an extremely dope $20 commuter. 
cruft fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Jul 19, 2023 |
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Jul 19, 2023 04:36
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Troutful posted:1.) I've heard that you can (or are supposed to?) come to a stop by braking and then leaning to one side so one foot falls flat on the ground. I've tried to do this, but I think my seat is *just* high enough that I can't put my foot down without toppling over You can still leave one foot on the pedal, but as you're braking and the bike is slowing from 1mph down to 0: - lift yourself off the seat a tiny bit with the foot you're going to keep on the pedal - grab the brakes a little harder so that your body is pushed forward relative to the bike and you come forward off the saddle - plant your foot out and down, making sure to leave clearance for the other pedal to miss your leg A lot of words to say "don't stop dead first and then plant your foot." You should be pretty comfortable with this already since you're doing the cowboy dismount. I don't really do this, but Sheldon Brown advocates doing the opposite to remount -- standing on the pedal (having nudged it out front while stopped) while simultaneously lifting your butt up, then letting the advancing bike bring the saddle under you. Once you ride for a while, your balance should get good enough that even with a tiny bit of forward motion from kicking off the ground, you'll be able to pull your foot off the ground and then start pedaling with both feet.
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Jul 19, 2023 09:39
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the bike seat is only for when the bike is in motion
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Jul 19, 2023 12:13
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Troutful posted:Thanks folks! My library has both books, so I'll check them out. I went on my first real ride today (~10 miles) and things went pretty smoothly. I have a few more questions if anyone's willing to take a crack at them: For that is a fantastic snag. Holy poo poo that's a bottle dyno on the back there, even better!Some other advice that you might need beyond what the others have said: look to see if you have any bicycle co-ops near you. They will offer you training on how to maintain your bike and have a lot of specialized tools that you might need down the line that you can use there. If you need parts, they usually have them for cheap as well, and they might have a bag that will work with your rack. Otherwise those aren't cheap, and I spent over 150 dollars for my bag (new) but considering I've been using that bag for commuting for probably close to 5 years now, it was worth every penny. A bigger piece of advice I have is to take your front wheel off and 'change' the tube a few times. You never know when you might need to do it while on the road and having practice doing so in a non-pressure situation is a big help. And finally: learn how to lube up your chain. iospace fucked around with this message at 12:35 on Jul 19, 2023 |
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Jul 19, 2023 12:33
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that bike is rad treat that fucker right (within reason) don’t casually let it rust or get stolen if you can help it bring it indoors/into a garage/into a shed at night
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Jul 19, 2023 12:44
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Troutful posted:3.) My wrists hurt. Besides loosening my death grip on the handlebars, any tips for dealing with this? I might fiddle with the handlebar height and see if that helps. Straight handlebars are fine on sporting goods, but on an upright commuter bike you can very cheaply improve your comfort by switching out for a more swept back handlebar. Also, people complained a lot about dynamos that ran off the tire, but it you switch out the front light for a modern LED light, you can get incredible performance. There are dynamo lights going up to 100 lux nowadays.
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Jul 19, 2023 13:04
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Troutful posted:2.) My bike is faster than I expected and I'm braking a lot on descents. That's okay to do, right? Do I need to be concerned about "riding" my brakes? As with driving, you should try not to feather your brakes constantly on every descent, as that will create excess heat and wear down the pads faster. Most descents have bends so you should be braking decisively to get around the next bend safely. Having said that: do what feels safe for you. Pads are cheap, just keep an eye on them and replace when needed. Eventually the braking surface on the rim will wear too, and you need to replace the rim (or the whole wheel) before it gets so concave that the structural integrity is gone. You can improve the longevity of your rims by checking there are no bits of road debris (metal, rock etc.) embedded in your pads. Al2001 fucked around with this message at 13:35 on Jul 19, 2023 |
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Jul 19, 2023 13:30
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