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I like my Spyres they’re still solid after years of use. Good pads matter. No they’re not as good as hydros but they are cheaper and simpler.
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Jul 12, 2023 17:15
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Thanks guys, I'll see what my wallet can get me. I don't have any issue with the stopping power of what I've got so it sounds like it'll come down to price and availability
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Jul 12, 2023 18:19
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As long as you're looking for flat mounts there's also the Tektro MD-C550 which is made for OEM use and supposedly has the same guts as the Spyre for around $30-40 per caliper. I haven't used either to compare but it's what I keep forgetting to find for one of my bikes
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Jul 12, 2023 19:02
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Unfortunately it doesn't look like those will fit unless you can get adapters to go from side mount to a flat mount where the holes are really close together, what I currently have is avid bb7 on adapters that go from side mount to the wide MTB style flat mount. The holes look much closer together on the tektro and similar designs.
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Jul 12, 2023 20:16
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I don’t see why you couldn’t adapt the flat mount brakes with a post mount adapter, and then adapt the post mount adapter to IS (side bolts)… would just need to confirm rotor size would work after all that.
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Jul 12, 2023 20:35
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You can adapt it no problem, but the adapters are just going to eat away the at the difference in price vs just getting the post mount Spyres to begin with
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Jul 12, 2023 20:37
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It looks like I can get post mount spyres for about 250/pair including shipping, living in nz sucks for this stuff
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Jul 12, 2023 20:55
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jammyozzy posted:I have TRP Spyres on my commuter/touring bike which move both pads and they're fine. Braking performance & modulation still is nowhere near as good as hydros even with fancy cable housing, but they're the best mechanical brakes I've ever had by a long, long way.
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Jul 12, 2023 21:47
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Clark Nova posted:I've never tried the HY/RD but people who have them seem to like them. They apparently need fairly frequent pad adjustment, though this is true of every mechanical disc brake This is something TRP takes pains to stress -- Hy/Rd has automatic advancing of the pistons to maintain pad gap. To do so, you have to let the brake arm return all the way to its fully unpulled position. Only from there will it be able to push the pistons out more with fluid from the reservoir. If you choke up on the the brake arm by tightening the cable, it might not be able to do this auto adjustment. I like a smaller pad gap than what the Hy/Rd offers by default, so at the start of every tour (only my touring bike has Hy/Rds), I pop the cables loose, replace the pads, and hand-pump the brake arms several times to try to get everything filled in, and then choke up the cable like they warn not to. Man_of_Teflon posted:I don’t see why you couldn’t adapt the flat mount brakes with a post mount adapter, and then adapt the post mount adapter to IS (side bolts)… would just need to confirm rotor size would work after all that. Adapters for FM caliper -> PM mount exist, but they vary in what kind of clearance requirements they have, and not every fork/frame will clear the adapter.
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Jul 12, 2023 21:54
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Spyres also don't have a way to lock the pad clearance in place other than thread locker, which is useless since blue loctite can't handle the heat of even moderate braking. Every time I dial in just right it ends up loosening within a week, not enough to be super dangerous but it's annoying to have the ability to get it perfect on both sides but it doesn't stay that way.
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Jul 12, 2023 22:09
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kimbo305 posted:This is something TRP takes pains to stress -- Hy/Rd has automatic advancing of the pistons to maintain pad gap. I’ve never used HY/RDs but this is good to know if I ever do, thanks! And yeah, adapters always seem to come with potential issues…
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Jul 13, 2023 17:08
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About 10 years ago I bought a Boardman CX pro to use as a commuter/gravel bike. Over the years I've replaced a few components (new wheels and changed the rear derailleur and cassette to MTB components for extra gear range) and the occasional clean and lube, but it's never really had a complete teardown and rebuild. It finally got to the point over the weekend where I couldn't ignore how ratty it was (10 year old white bar tape...) and lots of components were starting to get lovely and perform poorly all at the same time (10 year old shift cables and outers...) so I'm stripping it back to the bare frame and rebuilding it.  List of what I'm going to do to it: - Chain measures ok so that's going to get a good clean and lube but be reinstalled - Similarly the cassette is pretty new so will keep using that. - The front and rear derailleurs and brifters are all still good so I'll stick with them, but again clean and lube, brifter was sounding creaky when shifting in dry dusty conditions - All new shift and brake cables and outers - New chainrings - New bar tape - New wheels and tyres (want to go tubeless, current wheels are very dodgy and tires are pretty worn + aren't supposed to be run on hookless rims) - BB7 mechanical disc brake calipers aren't great but I'm trying to keep costs down so don't want to go to spyres or anything unless I can find some used ones at a good price, so I'm going to tear them down and rebuild My partner has a business making custom bikepacking bags (https://www.paperroads.co.nz) so she's going to make me a full suite of bags for it, probably in yellow and black to match the frame. Some questions: - Brakes were always run with full-length outers but shifters were only partial outers, with bare cables on the downtube and chainstay, should I change the gear cables to full-length outers or leave it how it was? (10 speed SRAM force groupset) - Bottom bracket bearings feel ok, but they're 10 years old, should I change them? I don't have the tools to do it myself so I'd probably have to take the frame to a bike shop, but it feels worth doing given how much other stuff I'm doing to the bike at the same time.
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Jul 14, 2023 01:02
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Cracked open, cleaned, re-greased and rebuilt the BB7 calipers from that bike, made in 2011 according to the date stamp! Rolling on antiques over here. Before on the left, after on the right.  Surprisingly easy to pull apart and re-assemble, pretty simple mechanism.
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Jul 14, 2023 04:21
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Blackhawk posted:: Full length housing is just gonna introduce more possible points of friction and flex to the shifting system so there's no point in it imo. Maybe if you knew it would be caked in mud regularly, like in cyclocross races, it would make sense. If a bearing feels fine it's fine, no point in changing them.
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Jul 14, 2023 07:45
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Differences in shifting smoothness across the cassette (i.e., gear 1-2 acts differently to 11-12) means a bent hanger right? I've tried using the SRAM microadjust to correct it but would need slightly different values for either end (like 21 at the 10t, 24 at the 36t). I did fall (very gently) onto the driveside when I went slowly onto a sandy track, so might be because of that.
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Jul 14, 2023 08:07
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Heliosicle posted:Differences in shifting smoothness across the cassette (i.e., gear 1-2 acts differently to 11-12) means a bent hanger right? Well if it was shifting fine before and now shifting sucks after falling on the DS, it’s probably that… Poorly set b-gap could also make shifting suck.
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Jul 14, 2023 08:39
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Heliosicle posted:Differences in shifting smoothness across the cassette (i.e., gear 1-2 acts differently to 11-12) means a bent hanger right? Any time I spend more than a few minutes trying to get shifting right the answer is inevitably bent hanger, the higher the 'speeds' the more sensitive they are to it.
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Jul 14, 2023 09:14
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Other than shifting from the 2nd largest to the largest cog it's still perfectly good, other than maybe taking a moment longer than I remember it to on some of the larger cogs. But like you say if it was fine before and not now, and can't be easily solved then definitely something wrong. Will take it to a shop and see if they can straighten it out
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Jul 14, 2023 13:38
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HY/RD is good, especially if you get the JJBP conversion arm. It lets you set a nice tight pad clearance and still get full travel for pad adjustment.
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Jul 14, 2023 13:49
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Noticed my rear wheel being quite wobbly when cleaning the chain and uhhh New rim time, I'm guessing? Count my blessings that it didn't catastrophically fail?
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Jul 14, 2023 17:18
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Angryhead posted:Noticed my rear wheel being quite wobbly when cleaning the chain and uhhh She’s dead, Jim
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Jul 14, 2023 17:38
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Angryhead posted:Noticed my rear wheel being quite wobbly when cleaning the chain and uhhh Owchies, yeah new rim. Depending on how expensive the wheels were it might end up cheaper just buying a new or second hand wheel vs. a new rim and paying for the labour to rebuild it (assuming you're not going to rebuild it yourself). Of course assuming all the other parts are fine, from an environmental sustainability point of view it's better to rebuild the wheel. I've only ever built a pair of 20" wheels for my recumbent trike which being front wheels didn't need to be dished or anything. I made my own truing stand from some aluminium box sections, got a cheap spoke tension gauge from aliexpress etc. It all went surprisingly well, rims that small are relatively stiff compared to larger sizes so they're less sensitive to spoke tension. It takes a little while of slowly nibbling away at tensions to get the whole thing true, and I was constantly forgetting which way to turn the nipples and making things worse instead of better, but it's the kind of thing you can do in front of the TV or listening to a podcast.
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Jul 14, 2023 20:56
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Blackhawk posted:Owchies, yeah new rim. Depending on how expensive the wheels were it might end up cheaper just buying a new or second hand wheel vs. a new rim and paying for the labour to rebuild it (assuming you're not going to rebuild it yourself). Of course assuming all the other parts are fine, from an environmental sustainability point of view it's better to rebuild the wheel. Fortunately it's a relatively cheap one, the stock wheels on Decathlon's Triban GRVL 520. Lasted me about 12000km of riding, guessing a bad drop off of a sidewalk maybe did it in in the end. Yeah I'm going to just get a new/second hand wheel. Now to try to make sense of what the various standards are so I get the right thing (already sent out e-mails to a few of my local shops) (Re)Building a wheel myself is the kind of thing that, from a romanticized viewpoint I'd like to do, but realistically I'm pretty sure I'd gently caress up and just get frustrated.
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Jul 14, 2023 21:24
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Blackhawk posted:- Brakes were always run with full-length outers but shifters were only partial outers, with bare cables on the downtube and chainstay, should I change the gear cables to full-length outers or leave it how it was? (10 speed SRAM force groupset)
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Jul 14, 2023 22:07
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Heliosicle posted:Other than shifting from the 2nd largest to the largest cog it's still perfectly good, other than maybe taking a moment longer than I remember it to on some of the larger cogs. But like you say if it was fine before and not now, and can't be easily solved then definitely something wrong.
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Jul 14, 2023 22:08
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Angryhead posted:
If you have a good local bike co-op community shop they'll walk you through it and have all the specialty tools, bringing down costs. Between doing your research on the Park Tools videos and the guidance from the mechanics at the shop, you can definitely do it  But that being said, it is time consuming and depending on your tolerance for fiddly work with small tolerances can be pretty annoying. It's probably not for everyone. But even if you buy a secondhand wheel you may want to true it up, which the shop can also help you with but will take far less time than building one from scratch.
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Jul 14, 2023 22:40
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Angryhead posted:Fortunately it's a relatively cheap one, the stock wheels on Decathlon's Triban GRVL 520. Lasted me about 12000km of riding, guessing a bad drop off of a sidewalk maybe did it in in the end. That ain't at all a bad lifetime for a rim
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Jul 14, 2023 22:53
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e: i'm a moron
Angryhead fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Jul 16, 2023 |
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Jul 16, 2023 17:02
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Angryhead posted:Noticed my rear wheel being quite wobbly when cleaning the chain and uhhh 
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Jul 16, 2023 17:31
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Angryhead posted:Re: rim Your cassette is an MTB cassette, like all Shimano's 11-34. The 1.85mm spacer is to make it fit an 11-road hub.
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Jul 16, 2023 18:16
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SimonSays posted:Your cassette is an MTB cassette, like all Shimano's 11-34. The 1.85mm spacer is to make it fit an 11-road hub. Yeah disregard, this was a case of dumb user error. Took all the cogs and spacers off and put them back on and got it right this time. e: now to redo the indexing because I did have to keep that bottom spacer off :< Angryhead fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Jul 16, 2023 |
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Jul 16, 2023 18:57
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My tubeless misadventure continues I did the conversion a few days ago and despite my many extant puncture holes, the tyres did eventually seal and hold air for a couple of days. Yesterday I went for an entirely paved ride with no big impacts etc and everything was fine. My wheels are straight and true. This morning I find the front wheel is dead flat and upon attempting inflation, it appears to be leaking from the join/seam in the rim itself. I can't find anything particularly wrong with my rim tape or sidewall and there is loads of sealer liquid in there. My rims are marketed as tubeless ready. All I can think is that there's a small bit of seam that isn't covered by tape or by the sidewall but I don't get why it would wait until I came back from a ride to part and leak - the leak is very fast, there's no way it could've happened while I was actually riding the bike. How can I solve this?  The point of doing this was to let me ride my bike more because I'm loving around with punctures less and it's currently working backwards 
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Jul 16, 2023 21:56
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This poo poo is why I generally don't bother with tubeless.
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Jul 16, 2023 22:25
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It's neat that tubeless has been around for over 20 years and it still has that diy packing tape garage conversion that doesn't always work right feeling to it
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Jul 16, 2023 22:57
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Thanks for the help guys
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Jul 16, 2023 23:00
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Slavvy posted:My tubeless misadventure continues You should be using tape that is ~5mm wider than the internal width of the rim. I feel like this was just discussed. It’s even okay, I’d say preferable if the tape is so wide that it partially creeps up the sides of rim. That way a large area of tape will be sandwiched between the tire bead and rim. Also whatever that blue tape is probably sucks. Looks like 3M 8896/8898. It’s not that tubeless sucks, it’s that in a decade of existence, people haven’t figured out how to search old MTBR threads where the best tubeless paraphernalia has already been discovered. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Jul 16, 2023 |
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Jul 16, 2023 23:15
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My rims are 21mm internal width and the tape I got is 25mm, I had to sort of bend it in a U shape to get it to fit in the rim at all or it would just get caught up on the sides, once it was in there it was perfectly centered and touching both sides. I guess the tape moved when I put the tyre on? The tape itself is some random brand the shop sold and they said it worked fine so idk. So I guess I have to put more tape in that area so air can't reach the seam? Thev rear wheel seems to have no problem and I still can't comprehend why this only happened AFTER a 50k ride. I'm sorry for not knowing I need to search a specific forum for this stuff, I read a bunch of articles and watched a few videos and did everything correctly as far as I knew. When I asked about tape in this very thread there was no response on a particular kind to get. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Jul 16, 2023 |
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Jul 16, 2023 23:41
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Slavvy posted:My rims are 21mm internal width and the tape I got is 25mm, I had to sort of bend it in a U shape to get it to fit in the rim at all or it would just get caught up on the sides, once it was in there it was perfectly centered and touching both sides. I guess the tape moved when I put the tyre on? The tape itself is some random brand the shop sold and they said it worked fine so idk. Don't try to manipulate the tape by hand. Just tension it to the point where it is starting to elongate and then lay it down in approximately 30cm at a time. Wrap two layers around the rim bed, then run something like a Pedro's tire lever over the edges of the tape to make sure there is good adhesion. And yes I would just get a different tape. Whiskey and WTB tape are fine. Stan's is fine. That blue repackaged 3M 8896 has among the worst adhesive properties I've tested. The real move would be to find a source for 3M 8992 or "green powder coat masking tape." TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Jul 17, 2023 |
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Jul 16, 2023 23:56
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Slavvy posted:My rims are 21mm internal width and the tape I got is 25mm, You may be misunderstanding internal width because that's not what the picture shows
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Jul 17, 2023 00:08
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SimonSays posted:You may be misunderstanding internal width because that's not what the picture shows ???? The rim literally has 622x21 written in the specs and it measures almost exactly 21 internally with calipers, the tape before installation is about the same width as the outside of the wheel to the point where I struggled to get it to fit inside the rim at all. That's why I'm thinking the tape moved. TobinHatesYou posted:Don't try to manipulate the tape by hand. Just tension it to the point where it is starting to elongate and then lay it down in approximately 30cm at a time. Wrap two layers around the rim bed, then run something like a Pedro's tire lever over the edges of the tape to make sure there is good adhesion. Ok yeah the tape I have doesn't really stretch at all, if you try to stretch it it just snaps, it has a plasticky feel to it. That's why I had to curve it to get it to sit inside the rim, otherwise it would just stick to the outside and be impossible to fit evenly into the trough of the rim. I can see it moving after I put the tyre on if the glue just sucks. I did everything else like your describe so I guess I'll just have to get some $40 tape.
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Jul 17, 2023 00:15
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