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Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Yooper posted:

Look at this giant rear end box!

The machine looks solid, but the documentation is garbage tier.
Where was it made? The manuals on Italian stuff are the worst IME, at least for big woodworking stuff. With Taiwanese imports the importer at least usually tries to write a decent English manual written by a native speaker.

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Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Where was it made? The manuals on Italian stuff are the worst IME, at least for big woodworking stuff. With Taiwanese imports the importer at least usually tries to write a decent English manual written by a native speaker.

India.

Our best manuals are British from the 1960's, then the West German stuff, then Cincinnati from the 50's-70's. We have some modern Taiwanese and British manuals that suck equally, but are passable. This one takes the cake for vagueness.

There is a screen with lots of empty buttons, so I'm wondering if something wasn't loaded properly as I seem to be missing a lot of poo poo. :iiam: We'll see what they say on Monday.

acidx
Sep 24, 2019

right clicking is stealing

Yooper posted:

Yah, holiday weekend will be spent learning Fanuc Macro programming. :smithicide:

Check out Peter Smid's book. Really easy to find a PDF on google if you don't want to buy it. SK Sinha has a good one too. Macros are a game changer.

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
Does anyone have any recommendations for re-doing the surface coating on a metal cooking utensil? I recently bought a kitchenaid mixer secondhand, and the enamel is chipping off of the mixing paddle & dough hook.

They're cast aluminum underneath, and I'm wondering either:

1. Is it feasible to powdercoat parts in a home shop? Are there food-safe and relatively DIY-friendly powder coating mixtures?

2. Would I be better served just stripping off the chipping enamel and polishing the surface to something smooth and easy to keep sanitary? Is aluminum fine to use with for direct food contact?

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

HolHorsejob posted:

Does anyone have any recommendations for re-doing the surface coating on a metal cooking utensil? I recently bought a kitchenaid mixer secondhand, and the enamel is chipping off of the mixing paddle & dough hook.

They're cast aluminum underneath, and I'm wondering either:

1. Is it feasible to powdercoat parts in a home shop? Are there food-safe and relatively DIY-friendly powder coating mixtures?

2. Would I be better served just stripping off the chipping enamel and polishing the surface to something smooth and easy to keep sanitary? Is aluminum fine to use with for direct food contact?

New dough hooks are like $12 on Amazon

shame on an IGA
Apr 8, 2005

HolHorsejob posted:

Does anyone have any recommendations for re-doing the surface coating on a metal cooking utensil? I recently bought a kitchenaid mixer secondhand, and the enamel is chipping off of the mixing paddle & dough hook.

They're cast aluminum underneath, and I'm wondering either:

1. Is it feasible to powdercoat parts in a home shop? Are there food-safe and relatively DIY-friendly powder coating mixtures?

2. Would I be better served just stripping off the chipping enamel and polishing the surface to something smooth and easy to keep sanitary? Is aluminum fine to use with for direct food contact?

it's possible but I wouldn't recommend it because you're going to put yourself in much greater danger from loving around with aerosolized plastic powders than anything it can do by flaking into your food.

Ever spill laser printer toner?

Imagine trying to manage a couple pounds of that that comes loose in a plastic bag and that's what you're getting into. The space you use for this will never be clean again.

Small scale powder coat shops are a dime a dozen though, there's almost certainly one nearby to you that can throw your part into a run especially if you use a color they already stock.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


acidx posted:

Check out Peter Smid's book. Really easy to find a PDF on google if you don't want to buy it. SK Sinha has a good one too. Macros are a game changer.

Thanks for the recommendation. I've got it coming now.

We ran parts on it yesterday and after a few hours with metrology we have good parts! The rest of the day was spent tweaking the program and pneumatics. The auto gaging is really cool, every so many pieces it measures the finished length, adjusts the offset, and keeps on grinding. With it we can hold +/- 0.001" in length, which is really great. Cycle time is down to 7 seconds, but we'd like to see 5 seconds. We had a few surprises, like when you crank up the coolant flow, it shoots out the back of the machine. Whoops. So we had to fabricate coolant shielding so hopefully that issue is gone. Monday will be documenting setup procedures, making some fixturing for measuring, and bringing in QC for capability studies.

Ghostnuke
Sep 21, 2005

Throw this in a pot, add some broth, a potato? Baby you got a stew going!


electroplating is safe and easy

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Anyone have a favorite enamel spray paint and primer? I’m gonna strip and repaint this vintage coffee grinder. I haven’t taken it apart to figure it out if the body is like cast zinc or sheet metal, if that matters. Definitely keeping it black and white.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Not enamel but Rust-Oleum appliance epoxy paint is my go-to.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Rustoleum has never failed me

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Two votes works for me, thanks friends!

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

I found this in the metal shop.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Sagebrush posted:

I found this in the metal shop.



who stole my welding coupon.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Sagebrush posted:

I found this in the metal shop.



It's cool dude, I'll sign you off. No, I don't need to see your weld, you're good for it.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Well at least they are practicing.

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
Rhapsodie in weld beat and TIG wire #17 looking good.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Just Winging It posted:

Rhapsodie in weld beat and TIG wire #17 looking good.

That welding coupon is more of a scherzo allegro than a rhapsodie

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

armorer posted:

That welding coupon is more of a scherzo allegro than a rhapsodie

Everything is Jazz if your mind is open enough.

MonkeyHate
Oct 11, 2002

Dance, monkey, dance!
Taco Defender
Oh that looks like what I just found.



It’s been “professionally restored” you guys.

Oh if you were wondering if they make replacement floor panels for like $100 like they do for pretty much all old cars the answer is yes.

MonkeyHate fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Jul 13, 2023

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Nerobro posted:

Everything is Jazz if your mind is open enough.

It’s more about the joins you don’t make.

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
I got an old table saw with a cast iron table. It's in mostly good shape, but the miter slots are a little dinged up. What would be a good way to clean them up while keeping them relatively square? Just ride them with a mill file and determination? Find the high spots on the face of the t-slot and selectively knock those down?

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Something like this.

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/...EMaAqqyEALw_wcB

ZincBoy
May 7, 2006

Think again Jimmy!
Might be overkill for table saw slots, but I use these for removing burrs on machines: https://www.kineticprecision.com/all-about-pfg-stones1

They work really well and don't cut into the original flat surface. Just takes the high spots off.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Correct way to remove surface rust ahead of painting? Going to hit it with Rust-Oleum gloss black nothing fancy but don't want to have to repaint it a second time as it rusts through. Chassis is about 8' long so I can't dunk it in a couple ounces of your favorite solution.

Just power sand it with 200 grit? Or hit it with wire wheel?



I also have a bunch of inside 90° welds I need to dress that have gotten rusty, just gonna hit them with the angle grinder I guess

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
There's these weird stripping pads I like, or rough scotchbrite pads, both on a grinder.

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

ZincBoy posted:

Might be overkill for table saw slots, but I use these for removing burrs on machines: https://www.kineticprecision.com/all-about-pfg-stones1

They work really well and don't cut into the original flat surface. Just takes the high spots off.

Thanks. They look handy, but unfortunately they're wider than the miter slots and cost more than I paid for the saw (lol).

Hadlock posted:

Correct way to remove surface rust ahead of painting? Going to hit it with Rust-Oleum gloss black nothing fancy but don't want to have to repaint it a second time as it rusts through. Chassis is about 8' long so I can't dunk it in a couple ounces of your favorite solution.

Just power sand it with 200 grit? Or hit it with wire wheel?



I also have a bunch of inside 90° welds I need to dress that have gotten rusty, just gonna hit them with the angle grinder I guess

I'd hit it with a wire wheel, slather it with Naval Jelly or similar, plastic wrap it while the jelly works, then clean & dry thoroughly before applying whatever I was gonna apply.

MonkeyHate
Oct 11, 2002

Dance, monkey, dance!
Taco Defender
Evaporust makes a gel that does a good job of sticking to odd shapes but its kinda messy to clean up and doesn’t seem to have much of a shelf life. Lately I’ve instead just been using paper shop towels wetted with evaporust and laying them in those awkward places I can’t easily get with a scotchbrite disk. If you live someplace dry wrap some plastic around it and let it sit overnight.

Wandering Orange
Sep 8, 2012

Maybe it's my Midwest, that's-not-a-spoon view of that "rust" but scotchbrite or a high grit flap disc, slap a metal primer on there and paint it. Swap the primer for a rust converter like POR-15 if you want but that would be overkill.

Fire Storm
Aug 8, 2004

what's the point of life
if there are no sexborgs?

HolHorsejob posted:

Does anyone have any recommendations for re-doing the surface coating on a metal cooking utensil? I recently bought a kitchenaid mixer secondhand, and the enamel is chipping off of the mixing paddle & dough hook.
Others have discussed your question, I offer an upgrade! Paddle with silicone scraper built in!

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
I've been looking into what I'd need to replace the motor on my lathe with a 3-phase AC one + VFD, in case the current one shits the bed, as that seems to be a common approach people take with these import machines. The whole installation & such I've got a grip on. One thing that eludes me however, is why the input current of a VFD is so much higher than its output current. For instance, the 230V 1.5 kW VFDs I've been looking at claim an input current between 13 and 15 A, and an output of 7 A. Why is it so much higher? Conversion losses?

MonkeyHate
Oct 11, 2002

Dance, monkey, dance!
Taco Defender
Okay. Okay. So I bought a shop apron and I like it a lot. It has a lot of handy tool pockets and protects my clothes. It’s just really so very nerdy. I might rather my wife catch me with gundams or furry porn, but I put it on and my scribe and micrometer and sharpie and everything is right there. No more “where did I set that chuck key” because it’s always in the same little pocket. Don’t judge me it’s my new true garage skin.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Shop aprons rule! I forgot to take my impact prescription glasses off yesterday so I’ve been wearing my pair with the little side protection wings for a day.

Protective gear is cool.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


NewFatMike posted:

Shop aprons rule! I forgot to take my impact prescription glasses off yesterday so I’ve been wearing my pair with the little side protection wings for a day.

Protective gear is cool.
Side shields on glasses say 'I don't gently caress, but I can rebuild modern society if needed'

ZincBoy
May 7, 2006

Think again Jimmy!

Just Winging It posted:

I've been looking into what I'd need to replace the motor on my lathe with a 3-phase AC one + VFD, in case the current one shits the bed, as that seems to be a common approach people take with these import machines. The whole installation & such I've got a grip on. One thing that eludes me however, is why the input current of a VFD is so much higher than its output current. For instance, the 230V 1.5 kW VFDs I've been looking at claim an input current between 13 and 15 A, and an output of 7 A. Why is it so much higher? Conversion losses?

There are a few different current ratings. If those are fuse/breaker recommend sizes then that is due to the high peak currents and poor power factor in a cheap VFD.

The other reason would be if those are marketed as a single phase to three phase vfd. Then the input current would be square root of 3 higher than the output plus conversion losses. So a drive with three phase 7a output would need 12.1a single phase on the input. Factor in efficiency of 90% and you get 13.5a input current.

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
Yes, these would be single phase to 3 phase VFDs, so that'd explain it. Thanks!

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Side shields on glasses say 'I don't gently caress, but I can rebuild modern society if needed'

NewFatSpouse says we need water based lube because it’s not “that kind” of tap magic.

Lathespin.gif
May 19, 2005
Pillbug
gently caress YES IT FINALLY HAPPENED











https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3ALwKeSEYs

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
Anyone got tips for fabricating with 4130? I have a flange-mount motor that I need to convert to foot-mount. I'm thinking the easiest way to do that with the tools I have access to would be to buy some of these U-bolts from McMaster, make a simple baseplate to clamp the motor to, and rig up something to cushion it a bit and dampen vibration.

The metal I have on hand is 1/4" 4130 plate, likely hot-rolled. I'd be working it with an angle grinder, a drill press, and probably some files and a hacksaw, might tap holes into it. What are the pitfalls to watch out for? I rarely work with anything where heat-treatment and work-hardening need to be considered.

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Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


HolHorsejob posted:

Anyone got tips for fabricating with 4130? I have a flange-mount motor that I need to convert to foot-mount. I'm thinking the easiest way to do that with the tools I have access to would be to buy some of these U-bolts from McMaster, make a simple baseplate to clamp the motor to, and rig up something to cushion it a bit and dampen vibration.

The metal I have on hand is 1/4" 4130 plate, likely hot-rolled. I'd be working it with an angle grinder, a drill press, and probably some files and a hacksaw, might tap holes into it. What are the pitfalls to watch out for? I rarely work with anything where heat-treatment and work-hardening need to be considered.

You aren't hitting it with a torch or welding it? If no, you probably won't notice much difference.

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