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LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

Invalido posted:

My sister's car (2005 volvo V70) broke after 2 hours of highway driving, warning messages about electrical system service and battery idiot light, apparently no battery charging from what I was told over the phone at the time, wouldn't start after being shut off. Belt is fine. The car started OK with a different battery, no warning lights, and was driven onto bro's trailer and then hauled to his garage where it sits now. Bro tested alternator output which reads fine with a multimeter. The old battery takes and holds charge.

Question: is it likely that the alternator is the prime culprit, but that it only stops working when it's heat soaked? Or is it just a matter of replacing just the battery and that's all there is to it? I don't want this to happen to sis again two hours from home with the car full of kids. I've never seen a a battery fail in this way, and where I live my batteries always show their shortcomings in the winter when it's cold. The battery was six years old, which is about par for battery life in gasoline cars in this climate. On this particular car the battery lives in the trunk so it's not like it got hot by engine proximity or anything like that causing it to poo poo the bed for that reason.

I would start with the battery, these cars' electronics are a bit sensitive to low voltage, and I don't trust the statement "the old battery holds a charge". Even if the battery isn't the root cause, it probably needs it anyway at 6 years. You can get a cheap voltmeter that plugs in to the 12v outlet to monitor alternator output, let her know anything under 13v while running is a red flag that needs further checking.

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Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

2018 Suburban Premiere 5.3L 4WD

Rear AC blower working:
- Good airflow across all settings
- Cold air

Front AC blower not working:
- No airflow across all settings
- All AC-related fuses good
- Front blower fuse good

Seems to point to the blower motor, which I find unlikely on something only 5 years old, or the blower resistor module. But I can't find ANY specific info online about how to actually find the resistor module on my specific car. I found one link that says that it doesn't use a resistor/relay module like most vehicles, but rather a generic AC control module mounted somewhere behind my front panel that I don't really want to dig into. Is this correct?

The blower it self is a pain in the dick to get to while having to contort my body upside down and diagonal to get to all the screws. I'm about to say gently caress it and just take it into a shop, but I want to be able to point them in the right direction.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Henrik Zetterberg posted:

2018 Suburban Premiere 5.3L 4WD

Rear AC blower working:
- Good airflow across all settings
- Cold air

Front AC blower not working:
- No airflow across all settings
- All AC-related fuses good
- Front blower fuse good

Seems to point to the blower motor, which I find unlikely on something only 5 years old, or the blower resistor module. But I can't find ANY specific info online about how to actually find the resistor module on my specific car. I found one link that says that it doesn't use a resistor/relay module like most vehicles, but rather a generic AC control module mounted somewhere behind my front panel that I don't really want to dig into. Is this correct?

The blower it self is a pain in the dick to get to while having to contort my body upside down and diagonal to get to all the screws. I'm about to say gently caress it and just take it into a shop, but I want to be able to point them in the right direction.

Probably worth getting a shop manual for to track down the resistor.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


The blower resistor seems to be on the side of the blower motor housing

https://www.gmpartscenter.net/oem-p...TUtM2wtdjgtZ2Fz

There's a picture of the part and exploded parts diagram here, you shloud be able to follow the wiring harness to it.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

IOwnCalculus posted:

Whoops, you're right, but still well into "this can give you hydraulic injury" territory.

Didn't someone post a youtube video in this thread of hydraulic leaks into gel blocks? Maybe a different thread but it was not good to say the least.

[e] found it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mFea7RNhw2w&t=17s

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Jul 14, 2023

Bilirubin
Feb 16, 2014

The sanctioned action is to CHUG


When I got the winter tires that came with my new to me car changed today, the fellow at the tire shop said my winters had "weather cracking" and that I should replace them in the fall. They are Michelin X-Ices and still have 6/32 left on them, and given the sheer amount of money spent over the past week I'd like to use this winter set at least this year. How much weather cracking gets us to the do not drive upon level vs. older tires getting close to the end of their useful life?

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Bilirubin posted:

When I got the winter tires that came with my new to me car changed today, the fellow at the tire shop said my winters had "weather cracking" and that I should replace them in the fall. They are Michelin X-Ices and still have 6/32 left on them, and given the sheer amount of money spent over the past week I'd like to use this winter set at least this year. How much weather cracking gets us to the do not drive upon level vs. older tires getting close to the end of their useful life?

Age cracks are all visual rule of thumb and there are no rules about it. How old are the tires, what is the year on the date code? That's what matters most.

Personally, in my Midwest climate I'd probably get 4-6 years out of a set if the tread was still good, they would not feel like hockey pucks and would be perfectly serviceable.

Of course, those without expendable income are going to drive on very very old tires. And, probably nothing will happen. It's just one of those things up to personal risk tolerance.

Bilirubin
Feb 16, 2014

The sanctioned action is to CHUG


Inner Light posted:

Age cracks are all visual rule of thumb and there are no rules about it. How old are the tires, what is the year on the date code? That's what matters most.

Personally, in my Midwest climate I'd probably get 4-6 years out of a set if the tread was still good, they would not feel like hockey pucks and would be perfectly serviceable.

Of course, those without expendable income are going to drive on very very old tires. And, probably nothing will happen. It's just one of those things up to personal risk tolerance.

Thanks. Yeah, they are in that 4-5 year range IIRC (will double check the date stamps) so maybe its time to lurk sales for X-Ice Snows, or maybe Nokian winters

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Bilirubin posted:

Nokian winters

I will say I am incredibly pleased with the Nokian winter tires I bought last year.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Any snow tire with good tread is very good! I did a track day on blizzaks in the rain once.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Last year the Nokians were completely unavailable in certain sizes, or the inventory was immediately purchased. X Ice Snows are incredibly good too.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
I would think that any real snow tire from a good brand will be incredibly good compared to all-seasons. I have had Nokian Hakkapeliittas for the last two sets and they usually score at or near the top in the tests that motor journals in Scandinavia carry out regularly, but the edge over the better competitors isn't really significant. Still, fantastic tires. Never felt I needed 4wd even in heavy snow.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Keep in mind too, Michelins are notorious for the top layer of rubber cracking. 4-5 year old tires with decent treadmill should still have a season or two in them.

Can you post a pic? While not entirely possible to diagnose over the internet, an image gives us a much better idea of the extent and severity.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Invalido posted:

I would think that any real snow tire from a good brand will be incredibly good compared to all-seasons. I have had Nokian Hakkapeliittas for the last two sets and they usually score at or near the top in the tests that motor journals in Scandinavia carry out regularly, but the edge over the better competitors isn't really significant. Still, fantastic tires. Never felt I needed 4wd even in heavy snow.

yeah my dad swore by hakkas but like, there wasn't much meaningful difference between my maxima on x-ices and his accord on hakkas

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

yeah my dad swore by hakkas but like, there wasn't much meaningful difference between my maxima on x-ices and his accord on hakkas

big altimamaxima energy

Bilirubin
Feb 16, 2014

The sanctioned action is to CHUG


Bajaha posted:

Keep in mind too, Michelins are notorious for the top layer of rubber cracking. 4-5 year old tires with decent treadmill should still have a season or two in them.

Can you post a pic? While not entirely possible to diagnose over the internet, an image gives us a much better idea of the extent and severity.

Yeah will do when next down there. I will say I saw nothing wrong in the sidewalls

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

mr.belowaverage posted:

1988 Corvette 5.8 auto

I abruptly had a crank-no start condition last week. Drove to work no problem, no start at the end of the day. Cranks strong, feel like fuel starvation.

Work is a shop, so had the techs check and there was fuel pressure with key on, but drops immediately under load. They checked the filter and lines, and recommended a fuel pump.

I replaced the pump, and it started first try. It ran perfectly for about 5 minutes, then started to surge. Felt like it was dropping rpm, then would get a boost. I understand this model has some kind of stall saver, but not sure how it works. After a bit of this it died and won’t restart.

It sat for a day, then needed to be moved and started first try and drove a short distance. Then wouldn’t restart again.

What are common fuel delivery issues, and what do I check first here?

Dr. Lunchables posted:

I’d check/replace your fuel filter. Particulate choking off a new pump and your ECU asking for more fuel, then forcing a bunch through and your ECU cuts pump production.

Ok so I replaced my fuel filter yesterday since it’s a $5 part. Once thing that was weird was after disconnecting it, the Vette just kept. Leaking. Gas. After I while I just worked through the constant shower to put the new one in. Of course it wouldn’t line up for some reason so this 5 minute job took an hour. About a gallon of gas came out while I worked. Does this tank just gravity feed the lines? Geez. Did I mention I’m doing this on the ground? Would not recommend. This car is kinda.. low.

Then I replaced the TPS sensor. I had checked its output and it wasn’t going over 3ish volts at WOT, which should be 5V. So can’t hurt. Top bolt out, bottom bolt immediately breaks off flush with throttle body. I’m going to have to remove the whole thing to try to fix it on a bench as there’s no room to come at it straight. Pretty sure the PO had this one in cross-threaded as it was at a very slight angle.

I clean up and go to start it. It starts instantly. Like so instantly it felt like it was starting before I turned the key it was so quick. It idles smoothly. Revs nicely. I’m even sure it sounded stronger and smoother than it did before this problem.

Then after about 5 minutes it starts to labour. Bogs. Surges slightly and quietly. Eventually stumbles. Stalls if you put it in gear. Cranks but won’t start. If you floor it on and off while cranking it’ll race to life but goes back to stumbling without throttle. Eventually dies even with throttle.

What the heck do I do?

TL;DR: back where I started

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Sounds like possibly vapor lock? Get it in a no start condition then take the gas cap off. If you hear the tank suck in air and it starts after you're basically getting a vacuum in your tank.

If so something in the evap system is plugged.

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

honda whisperer posted:

Sounds like possibly vapor lock? Get it in a no start condition then take the gas cap off. If you hear the tank suck in air and it starts after you're basically getting a vacuum in your tank.

If so something in the evap system is plugged.

This thing apparently has a normally open canister valve, closed by the ECM on start, and then opened when the ECM decides. Not sure if that’s the only inlet for the tank, but there is a small hole next to the cap on the filler neck. It’s worth a test.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Wrar posted:

Last year the Nokians were completely unavailable in certain sizes, or the inventory was immediately purchased. X Ice Snows are incredibly good too.

One of Nokian's two (I think) factories was in Russia. Which poses certain logistical challenges since March 2022. I ended up getting Hakkas for my Accord off of eBay because they were new enough I knew I wasn't going to get screwed with 4 year old tires again.

Sarah Cenia
Apr 2, 2008

Laying in the forest, by the water
Underneath these ferns
You'll never find me
so my car (1995 Corolla) just died for good and it has these size tires on it, and they're brand new:
P185/65R14

my other shitbox (1993 Nissan D21) has tires of this size, and they're shot:
P195/75R14

is it possible to throw the newer ones on there just to get by for a while? is this a dangerous thing to do? im like, beyond broke and just need the cheapest possible solution here.

Hughmoris
Apr 21, 2007
Let's go to the abyss!

Sarah Cenia posted:

so my car (1995 Corolla) just died for good and it has these size tires on it, and they're brand new:
P185/65R14

my other shitbox (1993 Nissan D21) has tires of this size, and they're shot:
P195/75R14

is it possible to throw the newer ones on there just to get by for a while? is this a dangerous thing to do? im like, beyond broke and just need the cheapest possible solution here.

I don't know anything about tires but there is a dedicated Tire Thread where you might get more answers.

Is aftermarket noise-reduction a thing? I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic which I'm going to drive until the wheels come off. My biggest gripe is road noise, lack of built-in bluetooth, and crappy sound system. I don't know if there are any realistic options are for reducing road noise in cheap cars.

Sarah Cenia
Apr 2, 2008

Laying in the forest, by the water
Underneath these ferns
You'll never find me
thanks!

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

Sarah Cenia posted:

so my car (1995 Corolla) just died for good and it has these size tires on it, and they're brand new:
P185/65R14

my other shitbox (1993 Nissan D21) has tires of this size, and they're shot:
P195/75R14

is it possible to throw the newer ones on there just to get by for a while? is this a dangerous thing to do? im like, beyond broke and just need the cheapest possible solution here.
The tires are going to be ~8% smaller than whats on there now, it may look slightly goofy and the engine and transmission will be running 8% faster than usual. That also means when your speedo reads 60 you're actually doing 55.

You'll have to actually get the tires swapped from the rims as they're not compatible, but the tires will fit on either rim.

Cage fucked around with this message at 14:25 on Jul 17, 2023

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Hughmoris posted:

Is aftermarket noise-reduction a thing? I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic which I'm going to drive until the wheels come off. My biggest gripe is road noise, lack of built-in bluetooth, and crappy sound system. I don't know if there are any realistic options are for reducing road noise in cheap cars.

Yes it is. My shitbox Fit is also very noisy so I've looked into it. For me it didn't seem worth it, it's a lot of work installing it and the effect seemed to be fairly marginal. At least the way the guy did it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnHbHJ1BQXA

But if you want to keep driving that car for a long time, it might make sense for you.

The sound system should be easier to upgrade at least. Try to search "aux mod" or something, I was able to hook up a BT adapter to my stock head unit pretty easily.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Sarah Cenia posted:

so my car (1995 Corolla) just died for good and it has these size tires on it, and they're brand new:
P185/65R14

my other shitbox (1993 Nissan D21) has tires of this size, and they're shot:
P195/75R14

is it possible to throw the newer ones on there just to get by for a while? is this a dangerous thing to do? im like, beyond broke and just need the cheapest possible solution here.

https://tiresize.com/calculator/

Sarah Cenia
Apr 2, 2008

Laying in the forest, by the water
Underneath these ferns
You'll never find me
you guys are my heroes.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
note that the speedometer calc is backwards for your specific use case - your speed will read higher than true speed going to smaller diameter wheels and tires.

Hughmoris
Apr 21, 2007
Let's go to the abyss!

mobby_6kl posted:

Yes it is. My shitbox Fit is also very noisy so I've looked into it. For me it didn't seem worth it, it's a lot of work installing it and the effect seemed to be fairly marginal. At least the way the guy did it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnHbHJ1BQXA

But if you want to keep driving that car for a long time, it might make sense for you.

The sound system should be easier to upgrade at least. Try to search "aux mod" or something, I was able to hook up a BT adapter to my stock head unit pretty easily.

Thanks for the info. I launched that video, saw how much he had to dismantle his car to fit in the soundproofing, and said "nope!".

I do have an aux bluetooth adapter for the car, was just about maybe splurging for one of those fancy aftermarket Android Auto headsets.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Hughmoris posted:

Thanks for the info. I launched that video, saw how much he had to dismantle his car to fit in the soundproofing, and said "nope!".

I do have an aux bluetooth adapter for the car, was just about maybe splurging for one of those fancy aftermarket Android Auto headsets.
Yeah that was when I bailed on the idea too lol.

Not sure how's the setup in the Spark, some modern cars are a pain in the rear end for installing a normal double-DIN stereo. If it doesn't require an entire new dash or something, it's pretty cheap and easy. I got one from like banggood for $40 a few years ago. The really cheap ones like that are functional but kind of laggy on maps. Still, BT and radio works, you can play mp3s off a usb disk, and my version had the reverse camera and gps. You can pay a bit more for more reasonable specs, I wish I had one with a physical volume dial.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001900571468.html

The speakers might be garbage worth upgrade too, but no idea about that.

XYZAB
Jun 29, 2003

HNNNNNGG!!
How bad is it really to drive down a gravel road on Nitto NT555 G2s? I was invited to a coworker's after-office BBQ tomorrow but didn't realize they live out in the boonies before I accepted, and apparently there's a 10km stretch of gravel somewhere between here and there. The guy who convinced me to buy these tires was incredibly adamant that I should avoid gravel at at all costs, or if it's unavoidable, to drive super slow over it, but it's not really realistic to go 10km/h for an hour on what would be an otherwise 20 minute drive.

Edit: VVV Thanks guys, I’ll just go for it and see what happens. :shrug:

XYZAB fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Jul 19, 2023

no lube so what
Apr 11, 2021

XYZAB posted:

How bad is it really to drive down a gravel road on Nitto NT555 G2s? I was invited to a coworker's after-office BBQ tomorrow but didn't realize they live out in the boonies before I accepted, and apparently there's a 10km stretch of gravel somewhere between here and there. The buy who convinced me to try these tires was incredibly adamant that I should avoid gravel at at all costs on these tires, or if it's unavoidable, to drive super slow over it, but it's not really realistic to go 10km/h for an hour on what would be an otherwise 20 minute drive.

I'm just some idiot in the peanut gallery, but I wouldn't stress over it and drive normal. 320tw is not super soft and they are highway rated.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



You'll be fine, gravel won't damage a tire, main reason is when they're hot they'll pick up stones and you might increase the risk of getting scratches on your paint. Depending on your fitment this may be a low risk. Mostly just slow down on turns to avoid throwing stones at your doors.

You'll know relatively quickly if your tires tend to pickup stones, you'll hear them as they bounce off the wheel wells.

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

2018 Suburban Premiere 5.3L 4WD

Rear AC blower working:
- Good airflow across all settings
- Cold air

Front AC blower not working:
- No airflow across all settings
- All AC-related fuses good
- Front blower fuse good

Seems to point to the blower motor, which I find unlikely on something only 5 years old, or the blower resistor module. But I can't find ANY specific info online about how to actually find the resistor module on my specific car. I found one link that says that it doesn't use a resistor/relay module like most vehicles, but rather a generic AC control module mounted somewhere behind my front panel that I don't really want to dig into. Is this correct?

The blower it self is a pain in the dick to get to while having to contort my body upside down and diagonal to get to all the screws. I'm about to say gently caress it and just take it into a shop, but I want to be able to point them in the right direction.

So Firestone has had my car for four full days now. They wanted $200 for the diagnostic which is fine, and then wanted to add $300 for the blower motor (!!!) and another $200 for labor, for $700ish total. Yikesaroo.

Today they called me and said that they put their only blower motor in, it worked for a few mins, then the resistor module fried. They had to get another from a shop 90 mins away, and that one worked for 5 minutes before the resistor module fried again. The guy who has been working on it is out tomorrow, and won’t be able to resume until Wednesday. :sigh:

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Why would you let a Firestone joint touch anything on your car other than the tires

Magnetic North
Dec 15, 2008

Beware the Forest's Mushrooms
This is more of a tire question than a car question. One of my tires has a slow leak. I am hoping to avoid paying for a repair or new tire for a little while longer if possible. It gave me the low pressure warning after about 250 miles since a fill. However, I've been driving on it for a while for reasons relating to not realizing it was notable and loving up taking a picture of the mileage. Still, I haven't been driving long at terribly low pressure for super long thanks to the warning system. I don't drive much but I do occasionally go 40-60 miles round trip maybe once a week. I don't recall when this started.

With modern tires, is it fine to drive if I keep it topped up? Or should I stop pushing my luck? I didn't find much concrete insight online.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Magnetic North posted:

This is more of a tire question than a car question. One of my tires has a slow leak. I am hoping to avoid paying for a repair or new tire for a little while longer if possible. It gave me the low pressure warning after about 250 miles since a fill. However, I've been driving on it for a while for reasons relating to not realizing it was notable and loving up taking a picture of the mileage. Still, I haven't been driving long at terribly low pressure for super long thanks to the warning system. I don't drive much but I do occasionally go 40-60 miles round trip maybe once a week. I don't recall when this started.

With modern tires, is it fine to drive if I keep it topped up? Or should I stop pushing my luck? I didn't find much concrete insight online.

The pressure in the tire is what matters. As long as that's close to normal you're fine. Driving on low pressure will overheat the tire and lead to possible failure and excessive wear.

The problem is that the slow leak won't remain slow for very long. It's probably a nail in the tire that mostly seals. Over time it will gradually ream out the hole and leak more and more. If you're close to needing new tires anyway and just want to limp along for a few months, then you can probably ignore it. If the tires have a lot of life left on them, pay the money to get it fixed and be done with it.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
a slow leak will start nickle-and-diming you if you're having to swing by the gas station every few days to top off your bad tire. And if you're doing it there or at home it's gonna get old. I did it for a few weeks once with a set of winter tires and by the time I swapped them in spring I was well and truly sick of having to squat down on cold, usually wet and slushy, concrete to air up

phosdex
Dec 16, 2005

Discount Tire will look at your tire for free. If its a valve stem thing they'll fix it free too.

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Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Why would you let a Firestone joint touch anything on your car other than the tires

It’s by far the closest shop to my house, but I think I’m done with them after this. My past few experiences, including this one, have been lackluster. They used to be pretty good.

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