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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


One thing I'll say is if you're gonna get into high end brands other than Thermador/Wolf you best be sure there is someone who is close enough to service the warranty reasonably. The coverage for some of the less popular higher end brands is pretty thin.

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surf rock
Aug 12, 2007

We need more women in STEM, and by that, I mean skateboarding, television, esports, and magic.

Motronic posted:

One thing I'll say is if you're gonna get into high end brands other than Thermador/Wolf you best be sure there is someone who is close enough to service the warranty reasonably. The coverage for some of the less popular higher end brands is pretty thin.

I did confirm that there are service options for F&P as well as Liebherr in my area.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp

SpartanIvy posted:

Dryer talk: My GE washer/dryer combo unit was delivered this morning. Unfortunately my alcove for it isn't quite finished yet so it'll temporarily live in the kitchen. This thing is a beast though. 300ish pounds!

Hopefully it's as good as everyone says it is. This unit marries European ventless heat pump tech to American unit size, so it should be the best of both worlds. And somehow it only needs a 120v 15a receptacle. loving magic.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020




The alcoves in koningen astrid park….. I like this word, alcoves.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


surf rock posted:

Fridge talk: I'm getting a big unexpected bonus at work and I'm gonna use it to finally replace my loud-as-gently caress 13-year-old Whirlpool refrigerator.

- Current fridge specs: 28" wide, 68" high, 29" deep, 18 cu. ft space (14 fridge / 4 freezer)
- Maximum specs possible: 34" wide, 70" high, 34" deep
- I want either a bottom-freezer or french-door fridge; I don't really have a preference between those options
- I definitely do not want a door water/icemaker, and ideally I wouldn't have an interior icemaker either (although I don't feel as strongly about that)
- Researching this topic has been an enormous headache since nobody agrees on anything other than Samsung Is Bad



I'm at an analysis-paralysis stage, so I'm gonna try to post through it.

Although I have room for a bigger fridge, my current one definitely isn't full (the freezer is often close to it, the fridge not so much; I am indeed a goon), so I was able to disqualify a couple of larger LG models on the basis that they were overkill. I also spent a few minutes googling around and didn't see any appliance repair companies that specifically mentioned servicing Beko, Blomberg, Forte, or Galanz, so maybe I should disqualify those too? I was surprised; I live in a city (Indianapolis) so I thought there'd be at least one for everything. It's possible I just half-assed the research too much.

Anyway, if I did disqualify them, that would leave me with the two Fisher & Paykel options and the one Liebherr option since I did find local repair people for those:

- https://www.appliancesconnection.com/fisher-paykel-rf135brpx6n.html
- https://www.appliancesconnection.com/liebherr-cs1400r.html
- https://www.appliancesconnection.com/fisher-paykel-rf170adx4n.html

My understanding is that Liebherr is a premium brand and that Fisher & Paykel is a notch below that (but still good), so that's a point in Liebherr's favor. The point against is that it's noticeably smaller than my current fridge, particularly the freezer, so it might be a tight fit.

The cheaper Fisher & Paykel option has the advantage of being cheaper and a bit bigger than the Liebherr option, albeit still a little small. The pricier Fisher & Paykel option has the advantage of being the ideal size.

poo poo, I was hoping I'd finally come to a conclusion by writing that all out.
Why didn’t you consider Sub Zero? They may be priced to the moon these days idk. My parents’ Sub Zero finally died recently after 34 years.

E: apparently yep, they’re like 3-5x more than what you’re looking at. I have a Frigidaire in your price range and it’s been great.

surf rock
Aug 12, 2007

We need more women in STEM, and by that, I mean skateboarding, television, esports, and magic.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Why didn’t you consider Sub Zero? They may be priced to the moon these days idk. My parents’ Sub Zero finally died recently after 34 years.

Outside the price range; they're like $10k+. My mental budget for this was the $1,500 to $3,000 range.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

My interest is piqued.

What are those brands getting you that say, a made by Whirlpool or Maytag isn't? Are they crazy quiet/reliable?


SpartanIvy posted:

Dryer talk: My GE washer/dryer combo unit was delivered this morning. Unfortunately my alcove for it isn't quite finished yet so it'll temporarily live in the kitchen. This thing is a beast though. 300ish pounds!

Hopefully it's as good as everyone says it is. This unit marries European ventless heat pump tech to American unit size, so it should be the best of both worlds. And somehow it only needs a 120v 15a receptacle. loving magic.
Oh! That's neat. I didn't know that existed.

My mom might be looking to replace her ancient Kenmore (literally 22+ years old) set. Since shes somewhat recently widowed and living on her own it might be ideal. Curious as to how it works out for you.

slidebite fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Jul 20, 2023

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
I feel like dryers should be replaced as they die. They're so simple. The heat pump models just make me feel like heat pump water heaters. You're putting a whole window unit AC inside a dead simple machine. They take a long time to do anything and cost a ton to repair. Heck right now my dryer would be far more efficient than anything if it was a two-hose portable AC model with a hepa filter. Pump in (checks weather station) 102F 22% humidity air through the tumbling clothes and right back outside. For me it would work probably 6 months out of the year.

KoRMaK
Jul 31, 2012



i have a light switch that has started to cause my lights to flicker. the switch controls the basement lights, there's a switch at the top of the stairs and another at the bottom. the one at the top i think is the problem, flip the switch to on, and the lights don't turn on right away, after a few seconds they will start to flicker then turn on. i sometimes hear a slight sizzling sound from the switch


how the hell do i fix this?

surf rock
Aug 12, 2007

We need more women in STEM, and by that, I mean skateboarding, television, esports, and magic.

slidebite posted:

My interest is piqued.

What are those brands getting you that say, a made by Whirlpool or Maytag isn't? Are they crazy quiet/reliable?

Everywhere I looked while researching, the mass-market brands were just getting poo poo-talked to death. There was no consensus along the lines of "this brand is pretty good actually" outside of these higher-end companies; like 80%+ of what I found on F&P/Liebherr was positive. The domestic brands also tend to make bigger models; the sizing I'm looking for seems kind of uncommon in the U.S. I guess.

facialimpediment
Feb 11, 2005

as the world turns

KoRMaK posted:

i have a light switch that has started to cause my lights to flicker. the switch controls the basement lights, there's a switch at the top of the stairs and another at the bottom. the one at the top i think is the problem, flip the switch to on, and the lights don't turn on right away, after a few seconds they will start to flicker then turn on. i sometimes hear a slight sizzling sound from the switch


how the hell do i fix this?

So there are usually far better electrical experts around here, but it sounds to me like for starters, you have a three-way switch that's hosed, or the connections to said switch are hosed. Don't let the name fool you, a three-way switch is basically just a weird name for a setup where lights are switched on/off in either of two places/switches.

Here's a This Old House video about the subject, though there are tons on YouTube about what sounds like your issue: https://youtu.be/P0tA45TEfqE

There's also a very good electrical thread here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3090739&pagenumber=456&perpage=40

First step is to probably turn off the circuit breaker, remove the switch plate, and pull out the switch. See if your wiring matches one of the videos and if it does, just find a replacement three-way switch from any store and swap it. They're cheap. Since it sounds like your current switch *may* be arcing, you probably want to re-strip the wire connections that will go to your new switch. And if the wires look odd, take pictures of the switch out and post them.

Edit: swapped "receptacle" for "switch" because I'm stupid

facialimpediment fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Jul 21, 2023

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


surf rock posted:

Although I have room for a bigger fridge, my current one definitely isn't full (the freezer is often close to it, the fridge not so much; I am indeed a goon), so I was able to disqualify a couple of larger LG models on the basis that they were overkill. I also spent a few minutes googling around and didn't see any appliance repair companies that specifically mentioned servicing Beko, Blomberg, Forte, or Galanz, so maybe I should disqualify those too? I was surprised; I live in a city (Indianapolis) so I thought there'd be at least one for everything. It's possible I just half-assed the research too much.

I just, like two weeks ago, took delivery of the 30" bottom freezer Beko fridge (it does have an ice maker but there's also a model without one) and it seems nice? If you buy one right now they have a $200 rebate from the manufacturer. I bought it from a local appliance chain and they rattled off the names of two local companies that can repair them, seemed like it would be NBD. I'm next to Detroit so I see no reason why you'd not be able to also find parts or repair persons in Indianapolis.

For me it came down to being the fridge that best fit my small space. I'm happy with it so far, but then my kitchen isn't even finished and it's sitting in the dining room without the ice maker connected yet.

surf rock
Aug 12, 2007

We need more women in STEM, and by that, I mean skateboarding, television, esports, and magic.

Sirotan posted:

I just, like two weeks ago, took delivery of the 30" bottom freezer Beko fridge (it does have an ice maker but there's also a model without one) and it seems nice? If you buy one right now they have a $200 rebate from the manufacturer. I bought it from a local appliance chain and they rattled off the names of two local companies that can repair them, seemed like it would be NBD. I'm next to Detroit so I see no reason why you'd not be able to also find parts or repair persons in Indianapolis.

For me it came down to being the fridge that best fit my small space. I'm happy with it so far, but then my kitchen isn't even finished and it's sitting in the dining room without the ice maker connected yet.

Oh dang, this one? How loud is it?

stupid puma
Apr 25, 2005

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Why didn’t you consider Sub Zero? They may be priced to the moon these days idk. My parents’ Sub Zero finally died recently after 34 years.

E: apparently yep, they’re like 3-5x more than what you’re looking at. I have a Frigidaire in your price range and it’s been great.

Yeah, Sub Zeros have gone up in price like crazy and the lead time is like 6 months+ for most models.

I just got a counter depth Liebherr to replace an ancient power hog Sub Zero and so far it’s been good. The ice maker is a little finicky but I’ve never had a fridge where that wasn’t the case so idk if that matters a whole lot.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


surf rock posted:

Oh dang, this one? How loud is it?

I got this one: https://www.appliancesconnection.com/beko-bfbd30216ssiml.html

Once it's actually at the correct temp it's pretty quiet. That process took longer than I thought when I first got it and it was pretty loud the first 4-6 hours. Once it's cold if it loses power it goes through some kind of recalibration for an hour once power comes back on and is loud during that time.

Standing in front of the fridge, a sound meter app is telling me 38-40db. If I stick my phone right near the back where the compressor is, it's 50db.

Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!
I'm pretty sure the state of this door track isn't acceptable but I'm trying to figure out just how mad I should be when I bring it up.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Is that a new install a house you're looking at buying?

edit: also does it work properly?

Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!
Oh this is a new install. I'm the poster that had a tree fall on their garage last June. I'll need to do an effort post on the journey at some point but long story short, they're still not done with the project. It opens and closes but it's loud and clunks.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Tremors posted:

Oh this is a new install. I'm the poster that had a tree fall on their garage last June. I'll need to do an effort post on the journey at some point but long story short, they're still not done with the project. It opens and closes but it's loud and clunks.

Maybe others will disagree, but if it works fine I might just live with it.

Major "but" there is if it's so loving obvious that it looks crooked without the laser I'm pitching a fit and telling them to re-do it because doors aren't supposed to have a visible lean. But if it looks basically OK without that visual aid and it's mechanically functional? I'd probably just shrug and move on, especially if I was in the middle of a major project.

I certainly wouldn't call back whatever company installed it, though.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


It might work ok now but that increases wear (look at the top roller support and how canted it is compared to the track). Over time that leads to noise and drastically increases the chance of the door coming off the track in the future.

Tell them it isn't vertical and ask them to fix it. It isn't a major ask either since the track is designed to allow for adjustment, you can see the adjustment slots where the bolts are attached to the wood. Probably will take them all of about 15 minutes.

Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!
That's pretty tough to swallow when this thing sounds twice as bad as what was up before the loss. If you look at the roller up top it's extending pretty far out of the hinge on the door. That's also the roller that clunks down into the track once the door is almost fully open. This whole process has been a balancing act of figuring out what's right, what's unacceptable, and what's not right but I'm just too tired to complain anymore.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Tremors posted:

That's pretty tough to swallow when this thing sounds twice as bad as what was up before the loss. If you look at the roller up top it's extending pretty far out of the hinge on the door. That's also the roller that clunks down into the track once the door is almost fully open. This whole process has been a balancing act of figuring out what's right, what's unacceptable, and what's not right but I'm just too tired to complain anymore.

If it's obviously not performing to spec when new, yeah, I'm 100% on team "make them fix this poo poo."

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Tremors posted:

That's pretty tough to swallow when this thing sounds twice as bad as what was up before the loss. If you look at the roller up top it's extending pretty far out of the hinge on the door. That's also the roller that clunks down into the track once the door is almost fully open. This whole process has been a balancing act of figuring out what's right, what's unacceptable, and what's not right but I'm just too tired to complain anymore.

Yeah this is a calm call back of this looks like maybe something isn't aligned right, please come have a look. If they balk, well, maybe you should call your insurance company. Freshly installed lubed garage doors should be smooth and quiet. "Clunk" is the sound they make before they tear their tracks off the wall.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
horrific dishwasher link to ajmaddison

For only $950 more you won't have wifi/alexa/google/siri? Maybe it's worth it. Go home literally every company, you're drunk and wifi is dumb.

H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Jul 21, 2023

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

surf rock posted:

Everywhere I looked while researching, the mass-market brands were just getting poo poo-talked to death. There was no consensus along the lines of "this brand is pretty good actually" outside of these higher-end companies; like 80%+ of what I found on F&P/Liebherr was positive. The domestic brands also tend to make bigger models; the sizing I'm looking for seems kind of uncommon in the U.S. I guess.
I think it's one of those things where people are going to bitch when things go sideways and generally silent when things work as supposed to. The "big boys" in NA (Whirlpool, Maytag, LG, Samsung) probably have, and I'm just totally pulling this out of my rear end, 95% of the market share so you're going to hear tons of bitching and moaning because they are the vast majority of units out there.

I think I'm kinda like you. I personally have no problem spending more $$ up front if it's going to give me reliable, trouble free service for years to come (as long as it's not insane of course). When we were buying appliances for our last new build 2017, I actually took the time to speak to an appliance tech from a well known local company that did all the majors plus the more "boutique" mfgs like Miele and FP.

He told me, and it sounded logical enough to me, to buy the unit with the least frills available and that's been out the longest as a general rule. The Kenmore fridge that we ended up with is made by Whirlpool but the same basic fridge had been made for something like 20 years at that point with only minor revisions for widths (still the same basic fridge for 30-33-36") and presumably efficiency standards. It's been solid. The only thing that has gone wrong with it was a few months ago the spring loaded check valve built into the filter head that closes when replacing the filter stayed closed, but it was a $40 part online and a 30 minute swap that I was able to do myself. But I'll admit, I wish I didn't need to do it in the first place, but after 5 years and probably 10-12 filters, I'll live with it.

He also said as a general rule to avoid anything door mounted for water or ice dispensing. Of course, most people won't have problems with them but he said if there is ever a repair call for a dispenser issue, it's inevitably almost always a door mounted unit.

I am curious to hear what you end up with, I've never known anyone with a Liebherr fridge.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
This is the only model Bosch advertises as still displaying the time on the floor. AJ Maddison shows it as "discontinued". Am I crazy? How do you know when it's going to finish with a top controls without that? The little "on" light is pointless.

https://www.bosch-home.com/us/productslist/dishwashers/top-controls?f_highlights_ma=timelight
https://www.plessers.com/Bosch/shx9pcm5n.htm

Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer
I think maybe an electrician is trying to take us for a ride. Myself and two friends are in the process of closing on a house; it is a very good price for the size and location; kind of lovely schools, no sidewalks for three blocks, the neighborhood being considered "bad" are likely the reasons (I've lived in the city for 15 years, the neighborhood isn't great but it's better than the one I live in now), and the construction being old while the price is outside the "starter home" range (anything under $700k-$750k) are the likely reasons. The sellers provided us with an inspection that looked really good considering the age of the house (1909). We had an inspection done, and the inspection report from our inspection was more than twice as long and included a lot more details, and several things the sellers' inspection missed. We've followed up the inspection with quotes from an electrician and an HVAC tech. The quote from the electrician doesn't really seem to track with the issues the inspector brought up, though; like, it seems inflated. The wiring isn't particularly old (2016 for a lot of it, all of it 80s/90s at the earliest). This is what the inspector wrote:

quote:









The electrician who looked at it put together three quotes for us, a "good," "better," and "best." The good option was ~$20,000, the "best" option was ~$24,000.

quote:

Good Option -Meter & Aluminum Panel (Good): This quote is for a new updated Eaton Aluminum Bus panel with an entry level whole
home surge protector. Installing a new 200amp Meter with a emergency shut off required by code.
This includes all necessary grounding/bonding, labeling of panel, entry level surge protector, parts and labor to install.
Replace main panel and service.
Replace old sub panel.
Fix neutral and ground wire in shed sub panel.

Better Option-Meter & Copper Panel (Better): This quote is for a new updated Eaton Copper Bus panel with an entry level whole home
surge protector. Installing a new 200amp Meter with a emergency shut off required by code.
This includes all necessary grounding/bonding, labeling of panel, entry level surge protector, parts and labor to install.
Replace main panel and service.
Replace old sub panel.
Fix neutral and ground wire in shed sub panel.

Best Option - Meter & Copper Panel Whole Home Surge (Best): This quote is for a new updated Eaton Copper Bus panel with Whole
home surge Protection. Installing a new 200amp Meter with a emergency shut off required by code.
This includes all necessary grounding/bonding, labeling of panel, High level surge protector, parts and labor to install.
Replace main panel and service.
Replace old sub panel.
Fix neutral and ground wire in shed sub panel.
In all three cases, the panels are the most expensive parts ($10k-$14k) and the meter is the next most expensive (~$5k).

The extent of my electrical knowledge is I took high school physics, and have replaced fuses and outlet/switch covers before, so practically nothing, but this seems... really, really high to me. When I outlined it to some other people more knowledgeable, they also seemed to think that, but I wanted to get some more opinions, with the full context. The quotes are more detailed than that, and I can post more of what's in them if necessary, but that's basically the whole electrical section of the inspection report. I would really appreciate some opinions from people who know more about this poo poo than I do.

Ham Equity fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Jul 21, 2023

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

H110Hawk posted:

horrific dishwasher link to ajmaddison

For only $950 more you won't have wifi/alexa/google/siri? Maybe it's worth it. Go home literally every company, you're drunk and wifi is dumb.

You also get the countdown/cycle display that projects on you floor. It was totally worth it when I bought one in 2019 and it cost less than that 800 does now, and that was before the 800 had the better drying system. And it's got a built in water softener.

jetz0r
May 10, 2003

Tomorrow, our nation will sit on the throne of the world. This is not a figment of the imagination, but a fact. Tomorrow we will lead the world, Allah willing.



Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Why didn’t you consider Sub Zero? They may be priced to the moon these days idk. My parents’ Sub Zero finally died recently after 34 years.

E: apparently yep, they’re like 3-5x more than what you’re looking at. I have a Frigidaire in your price range and it’s been great.

The landlord special Frigidaire in my apartment lasted 39 years from manufacture before dying.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe

Ham Equity posted:

I think maybe an electrician is trying to take us for a ride.

We had an electrician upgrade our service from 100amp to 200amp and it involved a lot of what it sounds like this job is. It required new panels etc. It cost us $2000. I don't see how this job could ever come in at 10x that.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

jetz0r posted:

The landlord special Frigidaire in my apartment lasted 39 years from manufacture before dying.

Yeah, super basic models will last forever. But if you want something actually nice ant cools consistently and can hold more than one temp split between the fridge and freezer it's going to need more than a compressor and a defrost timer. It's going to require - at a minimum - fans and fan controllers. You're gonna have to pay for that complexity to be even close to as reliable as a simple model. The stuff in LowesDepot isn't that.

That being said, my fridge is absolutely a big box store LG that's already had the compressor replaced under warranty. I didn't see the vale in spending subzero money to get a lovely afterthought water/ice dispenser compared to ANY other mid tier fridge and I wanted something that was actually nice to use - good air circulation, more than one dim bulb, freezer on the bottom, french doors. You know, all the stuff that goes wrong eventually, but is more convenient and confortable to use long term. I made a considered decision on this and it came up that I'm willing to deal with the minor period hassles and faster replacement cycle. Neither of those things will reasonably approach the one time cost of a similar subzero, and by the end of that 30 year lifespan it's probably a comparative energy hog anyway.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Ham Equity posted:

I think maybe an electrician is trying to take us for a ride. Myself and two friends are in the process of closing on a house; it is a very good price for the size and location; kind of lovely schools, no sidewalks for three blocks, the neighborhood being considered "bad" are likely the reasons (I've lived in the city for 15 years, the neighborhood isn't great but it's better than the one I live in now), and the construction being old while the price is outside the "starter home" range (anything under $700k-$750k) are the likely reasons. The sellers provided us with an inspection that looked really good considering the age of the house (1909). We had an inspection done, and the inspection report from our inspection was more than twice as long and included a lot more details, and several things the sellers' inspection missed. We've followed up the inspection with quotes from an electrician and an HVAC tech. The quote from the electrician doesn't really seem to track with the issues the inspector brought up, though; like, it seems inflated. The wiring isn't particularly old (2016 for a lot of it, all of it 80s/90s at the earliest). This is what the inspector wrote:

The electrician who looked at it put together three quotes for us, a "good," "better," and "best." The good option was ~$20,000, the "best" option was ~$24,000.

In all three cases, the panels are the most expensive parts ($10k-$14k) and the meter is the next most expensive (~$5k).

The extent of my electrical knowledge is I took high school physics, and have replaced fuses and outlet/switch covers before, so practically nothing, but this seems... really, really high to me. When I outlined it to some other people more knowledgeable, they also seemed to think that, but I wanted to get some more opinions, with the full context. The quotes are more detailed than that, and I can post more of what's in them if necessary, but that's basically the whole electrical section of the inspection report. I would really appreciate some opinions from people who know more about this poo poo than I do.

I don't really see anything there that would suggest you need to replace any of the panels. The only really important thing would be fixing the shed subpanel so neutral/ground are on different bars.

Why is he saying the panel needs to be swapped / service upgrade done?

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Ham Equity posted:

This is what the inspector wrote:
I just wanted to say that's probably the nicest report from a home inspector I've seen.

Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer

devicenull posted:

I don't really see anything there that would suggest you need to replace any of the panels. The only really important thing would be fixing the shed subpanel so neutral/ground are on different bars.

Why is he saying the panel needs to be swapped / service upgrade done?

Because we aren't the homeowners, we never talked to the electrician in-person. The quote he gave doesn't say why they think the panels and meter need to be replaced. There is an additional attachment that is "old panels" that lists some panels and why they would need to be replaced (fuse panels, Zinsco panels, Federal Pacific panels, and Split Bus panel), but I don't think our current panels are any of those: they're breakers not fuses, they look a lot newer than Zinsco, they have mains so they're not split bus... I guess they could be Federal Pacific, but the inspector didn't mention it, and they don't look like the picture of the Federal Pacific panels in the attachment...?

I was gonna call the place today anyway, maybe I'll ask why they think the panels need to be replaced then. It mentions installing a meter "with a emergency [sic] shut off required by code," but they aren't even replacing the sub panel that's the one with the bad bus bar, just all of the other panels.

Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer

slidebite posted:

I just wanted to say that's probably the nicest report from a home inspector I've seen.

I have never been through this process before, but the guy spent over four hours inspecting the place, his report is 129 pages (he took a lot of pictures, but still) vs. 55 pages for the sellers inspector, and did a great job of taking us through what he found when he was done. Having zero context outside of the sellers report to judge from, he seemed really good, and I was very happy with him.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

That seems high even if they're replacing panels.

Are they doing any rewiring work? Like running new poo poo in the walls? That might make more sense if they found out the house is full of aluminum wiring or something.

Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer

Cyrano4747 posted:

That seems high even if they're replacing panels.

Are they doing any rewiring work? Like running new poo poo in the walls? That might make more sense if they found out the house is full of aluminum wiring or something.
Doesn't look like it, unless that's part of the new panels, meter, or surge protection install?

Relevant portions of the "good" quote they provided:

quote:


SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Ham Equity posted:

I think maybe an electrician is trying to take us for a ride.
This feels like a "gently caress you" quote because that's a whole lot of work that is not needed for way more than it should be.

Nothing is inherently wrong with your panels according to that report. The biggest issue is you need to separate your neutrals and grounds on your sub panel because those should only be bonded at your main panel. However I don't see a ground wire in the feeder wire to the sub panel so if that's missing you'll need to rerun that wire. If there is a ground wire there, it's like a $20 30-minute fix for an electrician. Buy a compatible ground bar, install it in the sub panel, and move all the grounds to it.

The neutrals on the breakers should be fixed as well, but that could be as simple as just swapping it with the matching black wire, which I assume is installed in the neutral bus bar. You might also have to fix your outlets if they also wired those backwards.

From what's been presented you absolutely do not need a replacement panel or meter or anything.

Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer

SpartanIvy posted:

This feels like a "gently caress you" quote because that's a whole lot of work that is not needed for way more than it should be.

Nothing is inherently wrong with your panels according to that report. The biggest issue is you need to separate your neutrals and grounds on your sub panel because those should only be bonded at your main panel. However I don't see a ground wire in the feeder wire to the sub panel so if that's missing you'll need to rerun that wire. If there is a ground wire there, it's like a $20 30-minute fix for an electrician. Buy a compatible ground bar, install it in the sub panel, and move all the grounds to it.

The neutrals on the breakers should be fixed as well, but that could be as simple as just swapping it with the matching black wire, which I assume is installed in the neutral bus bar. You might also have to fix your outlets if they also wired those backwards.

From what's been presented you absolutely do not need a replacement panel or meter or anything.

The inspector checked every outlet, and there was one outlet that wasn't properly grounded, he said most likely just a loose wire or something, so I think the outlet wiring is fine.

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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
The best part about there being three of you knuckleheads buying this house is you can each get a quote.

$24k is "whole home rewire of a multistory house w/ new panel and sub(s)" money. $3-5k gets you a whole new panel, with all new breakers, service upgrade, and subpanel fixed or replaced with all new breakers.

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