Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

EdsTeioh posted:

Anyone know what AK Odorless Thinner actually is? IE, is there a non hobby branded product I get so I'm not paying $7 for 4 ounces of it?

It's actual turpentine with a bunch of the volatile aromatic compounds removed. You can buy it in bulk branded as Turpenoid.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Cease to Hope posted:

It's actual turpentine with a bunch of the volatile aromatic compounds removed. You can buy it in bulk branded as Turpenoid.

Going to second this, once you get turpenoid you will never go back to traditional solvents.

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."

Paragon8 posted:

Vallejo Game Color Air have surprisingly good metallic silvers - not to be confused with Metal Color (which also are good)

I meant for touch-ups with a brush, I'm using Metal Color White Aluminum through an airbrush to base them.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Virtual Russian posted:

Going to second this, once you get turpenoid you will never go back to traditional solvents.

Do you mean Turpenoid in particular or just odorless solvents in general? Do you prefer it over the odorless petroleum distillates (odorless mineral/white spirits, odorless turpentine substitute - eg Gamsol or Mona Lisa) and citrus-based solvents?

I haven't used oils myself in many years, so I don't know from experience.

Paragon8
Feb 19, 2007

BizarroAzrael posted:

I meant for touch-ups with a brush, I'm using Metal Color White Aluminum through an airbrush to base them.

i mean with a brush as well! the VMA metallics are great for brush painting

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."

Paragon8 posted:

i mean with a brush as well! the VMA metallics are great for brush painting

Oh cool then, was warned off it before but will give it a try

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Turpenoid specifically, I switched to it about 15 years ago after my art supplier insisted I try it. I love it and basically stopped using anything else, i never liked the smell of turpentine. I'm sure the other odourless solvents are fine, but once I find something I like I pretty much never try something else unless I have a very good reason to. I have a very talented friend though that uses gamsol and linseed oil to excess to push his paints to the point where they almost lose the ability to dry or even set right, he gets a ton of really beautful vertical movement in the paint on the canvas. Says he can't get it to work with anything else. So gamsol might be the more versatile product, but that might also just be that he is familiar with it, and not with other solvents.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Southern Heel posted:

Wait so I can spray klear / quick shine without diluting? I’m struggling with orange peel on scale models using Vallejo gloss through an airbrush

Yeah. I used to spray it diluted but then I watched the video by John Bius and he suggested doing it neat and it actually works better.

https://youtu.be/PVA_E1vd_Yo

Whatever you do don't dilute it with IPA as I found it actually makes it matte for some reason. Probably interferes with the binder or self-levelling properties.

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
Thanks for the advice about black brush on primer the other day, it showed up today and I primed a few HeroQuests that I rescued (the previous owner used airfix enamel paint on them). I was a bit worried with how sticky it seemed to get but now that it's had a few hours it looks smooth.

Currently painting up someone from one of the expansions that.. I'm pretty sure he's just Gandalf. They just sculpted a Gandalf

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Virtual Russian posted:

Turpenoid specifically, I switched to it about 15 years ago after my art supplier insisted I try it. I love it and basically stopped using anything else, i never liked the smell of turpentine. I'm sure the other odourless solvents are fine, but once I find something I like I pretty much never try something else unless I have a very good reason to. I have a very talented friend though that uses gamsol and linseed oil to excess to push his paints to the point where they almost lose the ability to dry or even set right, he gets a ton of really beautful vertical movement in the paint on the canvas. Says he can't get it to work with anything else. So gamsol might be the more versatile product, but that might also just be that he is familiar with it, and not with other solvents.

I started using Sansodor for making oil washes and noticed that while it's fine as a diluent (and doesn't smell) it can't actually clean the excess paint off the mini afterwards when it's dry. I needed turpentine for that.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

I couldn't help you with that sorry. I've not had trouble removing paint with it, but a panel/canvas is not a mini. I only use my stuff for very traditional oil painting, graisaille specifically. Funny enough I don't use contrast paints for my minis, even though I said for years someone should paint minis using graisaille.

I've never mixed oils and minis, but I've seen some nice results. It won't be soon, but maybe I'll try on my Ork Mega-Gargant (after a test stompa). I can report on how my turnpenoid works. It will be a good reason to unpack my oil paints.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Virtual Russian posted:

I couldn't help you with that sorry. I've not had trouble removing paint with it, but a panel/canvas is not a mini. I only use my stuff for very traditional oil painting, graisaille specifically. Funny enough I don't use contrast paints for my minis, even though I said for years someone should paint minis using graisaille.

I've never mixed oils and minis, but I've seen some nice results. It won't be soon, but maybe I'll try on my Ork Mega-Gargant (after a test stompa). I can report on how my turnpenoid works. It will be a good reason to unpack my oil paints.

Oils on minis is really great but you have to be careful about your workflow and whether or not you seal your mini before the wash. Basically my experience has been using it as combo panel liner and filter and it's been great. Usual technique is to make a wash with oil or use dots of oil paint to make a dot filter/streaking. After applying you can scrub the excess off which is what makes it so great.

What I found

Turpentine - removes oils (even dried) relatively easily. Will also remive acrylics if you scrub a little.

Sansodor (low odor thinner) - removes wet oils. Has no effect on cured oils or acrylics

IPA - cuts straight through oil and acrylic and will go through even a thick layer of gloss. Use with extreme care.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte
I use this stuff and love it. It’s $20 dollary doos for a litre and it’s great.

Mercurius
May 4, 2004

Amp it up.

Yeast posted:

I use this stuff and love it. It’s $20 dollary doos for a litre and it’s great.


Thanks for the heads up, I’ll have to give it a try. I’ve been using Sandodor which I like a lot but it’s quite expensive here in Aus and the stuff you posted is readily available everywhere for much cheaper.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Oils on minis is cheating because you can draw a line of unthinned paint on an edge and use a soft brush to feather it and have the easiest blends ever. And if you don't like it you can wipe it off with spirits.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Eej posted:

Oils on minis is cheating because you can draw a line of unthinned paint on an edge and use a soft brush to feather it and have the easiest blends ever. And if you don't like it you can wipe it off with spirits.

Do not give away my secrets.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

i honestly never would have thought to use my oils on minis. I've got some tubes of lapis lazuli ultramarine... who wants to see an actually ultramarine Ultramarine?


edit: hmmm, I don't actually own a marine that isn't 8mm tall. I might have to go buy one.

Mercurius
May 4, 2004

Amp it up.

Virtual Russian posted:

i honestly never would have thought to use my oils on minis. I've got some tubes of lapis lazuli ultramarine... who wants to see an actually ultramarine Ultramarine?
That’d be neat, I’ve always loved how fully oil painted minis look.

Honestly using oils to do pin washes and filtering are my favourite part of painting minis but then again I’ve always loved the ForgeWorld/Heresy look of using historical modelling techniques on sci-fi models.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Oils are some of the best paints around and make so many things that are a gigantic pain in the rear end with acrylics into non-issues.

Just, I hope you're not crunching for a tournament the next day.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte
I really like it for terrain, at the moment I’m working on a Necromunda ash wastes table, and it lets me add all the black/grey oils one day, wipe it back the next, a few days later come back and add brown oils, etc.

Been using the new(ish) water activated oils from Windsor newton. It’s cool that you can do a water cleanup if you want, or continue to use solvents to work it.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
What's the secret to the water-oils? I always either had paint that was too thick or way too thin when I tried them.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Yeast posted:

Been using the new(ish) water activated oils from Windsor newton. It’s cool that you can do a water cleanup if you want, or continue to use solvents to work it.

wow, those are actually oils, not just acrylics with retardant. that's incredible stuff!

Axetrain
Sep 14, 2007

Virtual Russian posted:

i honestly never would have thought to use my oils on minis. I've got some tubes of lapis lazuli ultramarine... who wants to see an actually ultramarine Ultramarine?


edit: hmmm, I don't actually own a marine that isn't 8mm tall. I might have to go buy one.

I think the free mini of the month is an infernus marine if you’re near a GW store.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

Virtual Russian posted:

i honestly never would have thought to use my oils on minis. I've got some tubes of lapis lazuli ultramarine... who wants to see an actually ultramarine Ultramarine?


edit: hmmm, I don't actually own a marine that isn't 8mm tall. I might have to go buy one.

If I can make a recommend, there's a guy who goes by James Wappel on YT and his videos are super long but really in depth, good source to see a really amazing artists process step by step. I made a 10 min video of me using them here if you don't have 2 hours for a video (I'm not an expert though). I think the trick with oil is knowing when to not use them honestly, it's pretty easy to switch back and forth between the two mediums if you have more than one painting session you can commit to working on it... I usually try to paint a few things at once for that reason.


Edit: Oh James actually has an UM video - https://youtu.be/WYNbHT1EFq8

Harvey Mantaco fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Jul 22, 2023

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
painted my first space marine! critiques welcome!






Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
Also i have decided that from this point forward i will make and print my own decals and transfer sheets, i think that will be a much more efficient use of my time, does anyone here know what the measurements are for decals for space marines, IG, tanks, etc?

I know you have to buy decal paper and print them, its the sizes of the decals themselves im wondering about...

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Thin your paints, otherwise it looks good :)

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat

Silhouette posted:

Thin your paints, otherwise it looks good :)

Yeah, check out the start of this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

(I struggle with thinning my paints, too)

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
im not sure if i want to paint my aspect warriors in their colours or my army colours. dire avengers, i think are going to stay black, but unsure on the banshees or dire avengers i have

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



My Spirit Otter posted:

im not sure if i want to paint my aspect warriors in their colours or my army colours. dire avengers, i think are going to stay black, but unsure on the banshees or dire avengers i have

I painted aspects in their colors, but also that was a reason I made an Eldar army anyway, to have a core painted "the same" but then have fluff/lore reasons to have differently painted units.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


My Spirit Otter posted:

im not sure if i want to paint my aspect warriors in their colours or my army colours. dire avengers, i think are going to stay black, but unsure on the banshees or dire avengers i have

You could use your army's colours but use the secondary/spot colour as the main, and the main as accents. So white or pink Aspect Warriors, with teal accents.

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Z the IVth posted:

I started using Sansodor for making oil washes and noticed that while it's fine as a diluent (and doesn't smell) it can't actually clean the excess paint off the mini afterwards when it's dry. I needed turpentine for that.

The only problem I found with Sansodor is that it took fully a week for the oil wash to dry. Never had that issue with other solvents.

Every other time I've done an oil wash the mini was touch dry after drying overnight.

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."
Put the scarab squad markings on my Rubric marines, really didn't want to sit flush, possibly because they are sitting higher on 40k TSons shoulders than HH and curve more over a second axis, but a bit of dabbing with a damp cotton bud seems to have helped a lot. I'm thinking I want to hit them with Microsol/set before going forward, I think putting varnish over the top will just keep the creases in there.

I kind of want to do a Magnus or Mutalith but I should probably do at least some of the remaining 3 Rubric squads I have to build first.

E: Aaactually I think I might give this old fellow a glow up, I need to source an extra Terminator Sorcerer and got rummaging in my older army. Need to smooth out or cover where the trophy racks were, and I'm going to swap the head so I don't have two Ahrimans running around.

BizarroAzrael fucked around with this message at 13:14 on Jul 23, 2023

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Has anyone had recent experience with Badger's Stynelrez primers? I know they had qc issues a while back and wonder if that got sorted.

Also apparently they have a line specifically for 3d printed resin models, wonder if that's just marketing nonsense.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Geisladisk posted:

The only problem I found with Sansodor is that it took fully a week for the oil wash to dry. Never had that issue with other solvents.

Every other time I've done an oil wash the mini was touch dry after drying overnight.

ratios are going to be a little different with each solvent, it sounds like you needed slightly more solvent to oil to speed drying.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Springfield Fatts posted:

Has anyone had recent experience with Badger's Stynelrez primers? I know they had qc issues a while back and wonder if that got sorted.

Also apparently they have a line specifically for 3d printed resin models, wonder if that's just marketing nonsense.

I dislike them through the airbrush, they have a tendency to clog, even with thinner.

Stynelrez also has a very matte finish, which is nice if that’s what you’re going for.

I prefer thinner primers in general, even for brush on, and I prefer a satin finish. I find Vallejo and proAcryl are superior in these regards.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug

Verisimilidude posted:

I dislike them through the airbrush, they have a tendency to clog, even with thinner.

Stynelrez also has a very matte finish, which is nice if that’s what you’re going for.

I prefer thinner primers in general, even for brush on, and I prefer a satin finish. I find Vallejo and proAcryl are superior in these regards.

This is exactly how I would use it, and I already get tip drying / clogging with Vallejo now. Thanks, I'll check out proacryl's stuff.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 16 days!

Wangsucker 69 posted:

I bought a couple sets of these brushes from Amazon and they are loving great beater brushes, super pointy and snappy and I love painting with them.

https://a.co/d/jcsx230

Hope someone else gives them a try and likes them as much as I do

I did and so far I'm really liking them, though granted I've literally only started using them yesterday :v:

I also grabbed some of these "Filbert" brushes for drybrushing: https://a.co/d/8nm0eCa

I find I tend to prefer that type of brush over using rounded/domed/makeup brushes for drybrushing, at least where hitting raised edges are concerned, and so far they're working pretty nicely for that. I'm working on some test figures for Primaris Ultramarines using brushes from both these sets, so hopefully I'll have some pics of them up soon.

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]



Necrons in-progress, based on the Lil' Legend Studio tutorial for same. (Actually several of his tutorials, but that's the public one; the rest are behind a patreon paywall).

My first time using chipping medium. I feel like it might be superfluous, given how dinged up these guys already are and that I'll be doing oil washes later.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
did some very rough, very quick test schemes for my biel-tan army. im undecided between the first two and the fourth(for a more traditional scheme)

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply