|
gohuskies posted:He's made a bunch of them: https://www.montblanclines.com/ I got this book and good god it is petrol for the soul.
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2023 22:46
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2024 16:11 |
|
|
Endjinneer posted:I got this book and good god it is petrol for the soul. My favorite coffee table mountain porn book is Himalaya Alpine Style but I might have to get Alex's book. His photos are so cool.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2023 17:15
|
|
|
Late in the season but finally made it outdoors
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2023 02:20
|
|
|
I went once or twice earlier this season but I feel "burnt out" on my local crag. There just aren't that many problems that really call to me, and I rarely have people to climb with so only having 2 stationary crash pads makes it much less compelling. I think I'm gonna try and relocate west to somewhere with better climbing next Spring. I should be done with student loans then, which frees up $730/mo to go towards the insane cost of living increase. Really not stoked about looking for a new job yet again but I doubt mine will let me relocate. I haven't been able to stop thinking about my trip to the Gunks last month and like drat, I love bouldering indoors but that's what I want to really do.
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2023 02:43
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:I went once or twice earlier this season but I feel "burnt out" on my local crag. There just aren't that many problems that really call to me, and I rarely have people to climb with so only having 2 stationary crash pads makes it much less compelling. The SW is where it’s at for all-year climbing (and especially bouldering)
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2023 03:05
|
|
|
I absolutely loved my trip to Salt Lake last year. Trying to get out to Boulder soon-ish... I know we have at least one CO goon ITT; how late does the season run? Would be cool to get out there before the end of the year and try to hire a guide like I did for the 'gunks. As a car enthusiast CA is also tempting for its perfect weather all year round
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2023 03:19
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:I absolutely loved my trip to Salt Lake last year. Trying to get out to Boulder soon-ish... I know we have at least one CO goon ITT; how late does the season run? Would be cool to get out there before the end of the year and try to hire a guide like I did for the 'gunks. The rock season can be year-round and our weather is hard to predict. When were you thinking of coming and what kind of climbing were you hoping to do? I actually live in Boulder so feel free to ask me questions.
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2023 03:34
|
|
|
Probably October I suppose, should be enough time to save up a bit more. Traveling is so much harder when you need to board your 2 doggos  I just want to do anything multi-pitch. Sport preferred but I'd also welcome the chance to clean trad again.
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2023 03:39
|
|
|
I fuckin love Devils Head and there's a ton of multi pitch there. 1.5ish hours from Boulder. The access road closes for the winter, so it depends on when you get here. But even so, there's plenty of rock you can climb all year all across the front range
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2023 04:46
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:I absolutely loved my trip to Salt Lake last year. Trying to get out to Boulder soon-ish... I know we have at least one CO goon ITT; how late does the season run? Would be cool to get out there before the end of the year and try to hire a guide like I did for the 'gunks. Oh hey, speaking of...guess where I am moving this summer? Where should I look at going? I'm out of shape and practice so lower grade climbs would be good but I'd love any advice.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2023 01:50
|
|
|
Ah I drove 3 hours from SLC to Joe's Valley, but the Cottonwoods are super close to the city from what I can tell on MP
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2023 02:38
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Probably October I suppose, should be enough time to save up a bit more. Traveling is so much harder when you need to board your 2 doggos I don't climb much sport mutli (I prefer trad), but as Happiness Commando said, South Platte is supposed to have some good sport multi-pitches. October should be a great time to come, not likely to get snow and temps will be perfect.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2023 16:18
|
|
|
OK, some better rock yesterday, up boulder canyon. Animation and unfamiliar strangers in animal world. Got around to exploring what I thought was most of the area instead of just hanging out in lower. Ton of climbs. And then got home and realized the zoo was even *farther* along. There was a line for animation and baby dog, but hardly anyone past that.  https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105749785/animation https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105762684/unfamiliar-strangers Better views of the crag across the canyon, black widow. Someone is halfway up.  And parts of avalon I believe. The creek looked way too high to be messing around with fording it, someday I gotta sack up and figure out the tyrols. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 18:03
|
|
|
Went climbing outdoors for the first time. Watching my partner lead was frightening and but then I was top roping and it was hella fun and I can’t wait to go again. We went to Squamish
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2023 00:21
|
|
|
About a month and a half ago, I came across a video by prominent climber Emil Abrahamsson. It describes a hangboard training program where you hangboard twice a day, but at 50-80% of your weight (i.e. with your feet never leaving the floor). Abrahamsson said he created the program based on a study on how ligaments grown in a lab setting respond to exercise stimulus, and claimed to have had substantial improvements to his hangboard performance over the course of just one month. The video showcases his before-and-after tests (where one of his friends is recording and timing his hangs) along with an explanation of how to execute the plan. At first it sounded way too good to be true. After all, sports is a field that is full of pseudoscience and wild exaggerations, and I thought this was one such situation. But I was looking for a hangboard training plan, and I figured I might as well give this one a try, since it's just one month long. But I wanted to be as methodical as possible and record both my starting benchmarks and my weekly progress, as well as any possible confounding variables. I started on June 14th, and this morning I recorded my final results. They are, uh, nothing short of astonishing. Wanted to share:  Essentially, I saw a whopping 136% improvement in total hang duration over 30 days of twice-a-day non-strenuous hangboard training. My 3-finger grip on 22 mm saw the largest endurance increase (280%) whereas my 4-finger grip on 30 mm saw the smallest increase (78%). What has been truly amazing though is how this has translated into actual climbing. Before I started this program, the highest grade I had lead-climbed cleanly (no falls/takes) was a 10d on a 55 ft wall. This past Tuesday I led an 11c on the same wall with just one take, and have been projecting an 11d that I'm confident I can send next week. So almost a full grade improvement. I also last way longer on the wall, and get pumped/gassed less frequently and recover much faster between climbs. Suffice it to say, my confidence is through the roof. Anyway, I'm just a single data point, but I convinced several climbing friends to follow this plan and record their results too, and if they do I'll share them here.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2023 19:03
|
|
|
That's an awesome improvement, congrats! I read about this protocol a while back - the wild speculation I saw and kind of agreed with was that Emil and similar (strong/very strong) climbers were benefiting from the program mostly because they were giving their fingers more rest and so after a month of taper they were able to send way harder. Was this also a step down from harder hangboarding/bouldering for you or just an addition to your training? I guess also Emil has still been doing it for the past two years and it seems to continue to work for him. So that seems good too.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2023 20:24
|
|
|
This was just an addition to my regular climbing, which I do 4-5 times a week (bouldering once a week, TR/lead the rest). It was the first hangboard training program I followed with any kind of actual discipline.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2023 20:29
|
|
|
I came across that video but could not keep up the motivation/discipline to keep with it for more than like 2 weeks
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2023 20:31
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:I came across that video but could not keep up the motivation/discipline to keep with it for more than like 2 weeks I hear ya. That's why I recorded my progress every week, because I'm the type of person who needs to see quick and frequent progress in order to stay motivated. It definitely helped. Probably would not have kept up with it otherwise. The other thing that helped is the bet I have going with one of my climbing buddies on who can lead a 12a cleanly first. :P
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2023 20:39
|
|
|
My only good climbing buddy is definitely already way stronger. And a decade younger  I've been trying to keep a Diet & Fitness log lately, but I find a lot of the data entry to be a bit of a pain - usually because I'm doing a variety of exercises to fill out. Decided to drop the Fitness log and focus squarely on diet since getting back into logging things though. Down approximately 8 pounds since I started last month 
Sab669 fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Jul 14, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2023 21:17
|
|
|
Slow News Day posted:This was just an addition to my regular climbing, which I do 4-5 times a week (bouldering once a week, TR/lead the rest). It was the first hangboard training program I followed with any kind of actual discipline. This is probably the actual reason you saw such big improvements. If you spent twice a week doing repeaters instead you'd see similar results. If this routine helps you keep consistent though, then it's doing the most important thing. If I understand correctly you're measuring the maximum time you can hang at bodyweight? That sort of short-term endurance tends to increase very quickly for the first 3-4 weeks of training, then pretty much stop improving. Most people measure progress hangboarding by looking at max weight they can hang for X seconds (usually 5-10) because it's a much better measure of long-term gains.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2023 22:12
|
|
|
On the Emil program. I never did it properly (twice a day for multiple months), but I've tried doing it once a day for a while and the big thing for me was that it made my fingers feel drat good. Like stupid good compared to when I don't do it. Did the same for my main climbing buddy. Personally I see it as a "feeding" session for my tendons and ligaments and I think there's something to it. I'm too lazy to do it twice a day and record how it affects my finger strength though. Whenever life and motivations allow me, I do it daily.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2023 22:35
|
|
|
Slow News Day posted:It was the first hangboard training program I followed with any kind of actual discipline. there it is
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2023 22:48
|
|
|
ploots posted:there it is Xyven posted:This is probably the actual reason you saw such big improvements. If you spent twice a week doing repeaters instead you'd see similar results. That's what I thought at first too, but Emil also saw insane improvement, and he was already a super strong climber and was also no stranger to hangboard training at the time he did his first 30-days on this particular program. So I don't think that this being the first time I hangboarded consistently explains the gains I saw. The other key thing with this program is that I can continue climbing at the same frequency and intensity as I was before, instead of having to schedule them around my hangboard routines or vice versa. Essentially, on non-climbing days, I do two sub-max hangboard sessions (morning and evening) and on climbing days I do just one. Whereas with repeaters or similar programs, there's a strong emphasis on 24-36 hour rest after doing them in order to avoid overuse injuries, which is a total dealbreaker for me (and probably many others as well). Xyven posted:If this routine helps you keep consistent though, then it's doing the most important thing. The thing that helps a ton with this consistency though is the non-strenuous nature of this program: my fingers and forearms aren't absolutely creamed after training sessions and need long recovery like with "normal" hangboard programs. Xyven posted:If I understand correctly you're measuring the maximum time you can hang at bodyweight? That sort of short-term endurance tends to increase very quickly for the first 3-4 weeks of training, then pretty much stop improving. Most people measure progress hangboarding by looking at max weight they can hang for X seconds (usually 5-10) because it's a much better measure of long-term gains. Yeah, I measured the max time I could hang at bodyweight. I'm going to keep going for another month to see if improvements continue. But on Monday I'll take a second set of benchmarks with weighed hangs instead of just bodyweight. Regarding your other point, I doubt it's just endurance, both because my crimps during normal climbs are way stronger now (I can hold smaller crimps for way longer and pull myself on them without my fingers opening, which is actually what enabled me to send that 11c), and also because Emil saw huge strength gains too. You can watch the results section of the video. As an example, at the start he could hold 14mm for 3 seconds with +100 lbs. Afterwards he could hold +147 lbs for 5 seconds. At his level that's loving insane, you have to admit. KingColliwog posted:On the Emil program. I never did it properly (twice a day for multiple months), but I've tried doing it once a day for a while and the big thing for me was that it made my fingers feel drat good. Like stupid good compared to when I don't do it. Did the same for my main climbing buddy. Personally I see it as a "feeding" session for my tendons and ligaments and I think there's something to it. I'm too lazy to do it twice a day and record how it affects my finger strength though. Yeah, I totally forgot to mention this part. I've had an index finger injury from two years ago (when I got back into climbing post-pandemic a bit too hard), and before this program it used to start hurting after climbing on it for 45-60 mins. The pain completely disappeared after two weeks of this training plan. I can't explain it either, but I'll take it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2023 23:25
|
|
|
Very cool to see you had such positive results. Had seen references to that program but had brushed past it, thanks for posting. Currently a total rookie, started bouldering February 1st, climbing v4s and the occasional v5 slab (soft setting, probably v3s elsewhere). I could stand to lose 30lbs so crimps and small holds have been really hard, though I mostly used open hand stuff and only just started full crimping out of necessity for harder climbs. I think I'd like to give this a go but will likely ease into it. I had my first go at the kilter board yesterday at 15 degrees. The increased difficulty made me realize my body positioning and hand strength could use some very obvious improvement. e: Hooper's analysis of why it worked was interesting. Still feels like a good way for me to reduce finger soreness and dip my toes into hangboarding without having to climb less. COOKIE DELIGHT fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Jul 15, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2023 02:39
|
|
|
I’ve been doing hangboards on and off when I injure myself too much to climb, will try these out! I like the idea of sub max stuff you don’t need to be as worried about resting with.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2023 03:05
|
|
|
It’s hard to tease out a specific outcome from a dataset (especially small ones)when there’s so many different input variables (noise). Yes it could have been the hangboard protocol, but it could have also been the increased volume of your climbing driving tendon adaptation. Generally if you’re increasing the volume of your hangboarding from anything to nothing or (in Emil’s case) from probably once a day to twice a day, strength gains will inevitably follow on a long term horizon. I don’t think that makes his protocol “good” or “optimal” for everyone, but it’s definitely a tool in the box. Self coached climbers may or may not have the objectivity to figure that out on their own. For you, since you’re going from no previous hangboarding to hangboarding, you should see a drastic gain in finger strength, period. It wouldn’t have mattered what the protocol was. TLDR; vids are meant to get views, doesn’t mean it’s best for you - talk to a coach if you’re really trying to optimize your training. Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Jul 16, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2023 06:12
|
|
|
I have a nagging shoulder owie, not terrible but enough to worry me. When I put my arm out in front, palm down, and raise it up from low to mid-height, it hurts my shoulder and a little bit my elbow too. It does not hurt as much going from middle to high. Any recommended exercises people know about? I've gotten good PT advice from this thread before and as much as I'd like to consult a real PT, it's the kind of injury that will be gone by the time my appointment comes up. Trouble is it keeps recurring.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2023 21:25
|
|
|
We are having a really really lovely summer here with rain every god damned day. Finally had an opportunity to go outside and drat, is there a better feeling in the world than being much stronger than you were last season? I was pretty sure I improved, but drat training is paying off! Problems with moves that felt impossible last year were just sent in a single session with suboptimal weather.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2023 22:29
|
|
|
KingColliwog posted:is there a better feeling in the world than being much stronger than you were last season? I wish I could relate to this.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2023 23:45
|
|
|
KingColliwog posted:is there a better feeling in the world than being much stronger than you were last season? Got a pumpy sport route with no takes that took me 3+ takes the last time I attempted it. Still need to lead it but that felt pretty great. Overall being able to go out and do a half dozen routes and still have energy left over feels like a big improvement over this same time last summer. Gorgeous weather today which was a big improvement over last weekend. Spent the afternoon working a chossy overhang during a thunderstorm because it was the only thing that was dry.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2023 00:02
|
|
|
Got my first lead session in since hurting my shoulder memorial day. I've been feeling a lot better, but unfortunately the motions when you're really feeding slack as the climber goes to clip apparently still hurts a lot Do any of you guys wear a Fitbit or anything like that while climbing? I just bought one last week, second time climbing with it and I apparently scratched the hell out of the face at some point today. Pretty annoying; you'd think for a device you're ideally wearing during physical activity you'd think they'd give it a stronger screen.... Or at least sell a screen protector, which they don't do...
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2023 16:08
|
|
|
Hope you get better man! But yeah no watch will resist rock climbing. You need to put some sort of cover like those wrist armband to absorb sweat if you really want to wear it.Slimy Hog posted:I wish I could relate to this. My tip is to be bad so you can only improve! Sure worked for me vonnegutt posted:Got a pumpy sport route with no takes that took me 3+ takes the last time I attempted it. Still need to lead it but that felt pretty great. Overall being able to go out and do a half dozen routes and still have energy left over feels like a big improvement over this same time last summer. Nice! Outdoor climbing makes seeing progress so much easier. Gotta love permanent problems and routes! Getting more fit is also great since more climbing means more fun! And gently caress weather. One of the only thing I hate about that sport is how weather dependant it is KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Jul 23, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2023 16:42
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Got my first lead session in since hurting my shoulder memorial day. I've been feeling a lot better, but unfortunately the motions when you're really feeding slack as the climber goes to clip apparently still hurts a lot Yeah the fitbits are designed for walking around your neighborhood and the like so they’re not particularly resilient. I used to have one where the little tracker piece slipped into and out of the band so you could replace it if it got damaged, but it looks like they don’t sell any like that now. Of course l lost mine slipping in a scree field and having the band roll up my arm, popping the tracker out. Didn’t notice until I got to the car.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2023 19:02
|
|
|
I always wear a regular rear end sports watch when I climb, it has a very long velcro strap so I have it about 2/3 of the way up my forearm where it's less likely to get hosed up (I have scratched it to buggery by now but it's been like 10 years and it's still legible)
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2023 20:56
|
|
|
I’ve gotten into climbing these days. Bouldering and sport climbing in a gym. I’m a complete beginner, slightly overweight, mid-thirties, upper body strength of a 12 year old girl. Does anyone have any suggestions on what’s the optimal way for me to progress (and not get stuck with an additional injury)? Had quite a few injuries in the past year, so I’d like to ensure as much as possible to avoid adding new ones to the list. Especially tendons. Do i climb as much as possible? Do I limit the amount of times i go climbing? Do i stick to easy routes as much as possible (Haha i can barely climb ladders)? Does it even matter? Im okay with only suggestions about a book or something. Then I have a question about injuries as well. I have a bursitis in my forefoot, apparently caused by climbing and hiking mostly. Been causing issues for a year and a half, but was almost nonexistent for the past six months. Then it all came back after one climbing session. Climbing shoes are not helping i think. Does anyone have any experience with these things?
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2023 20:58
|
|
|
NocnaShada posted:Does anyone have any suggestions on what’s the optimal way for me to progress (and not get stuck with an additional injury)? Had quite a few injuries in the past year, so I’d like to ensure as much as possible to avoid adding new ones to the list. Especially tendons. Do i climb as much as possible? Do I limit the amount of times i go climbing? Do i stick to easy routes as much as possible (Haha i can barely climb ladders)? Does it even matter? Im okay with only suggestions about a book or something. Just do it as much as you want, and don’t do anything that hurts. It may not feel like it, but progress as a beginner is very fast. When you get to the point of needing structured training to progress You’ll Know.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2023 21:21
|
|
|
 only it's Just Climb. When you're new, learning how to climb well is more important than getting stronger, so getting as much active climbing time in is the key, and you'll strengthen your body at the same time.For injury avoidance, make sure you warm up properly; I usually try to spend at least 30 minutes doing stretches and light exercise before climbing even if I don't have much time and I'm planning a short session. Getting injured is poo poo and even if it doesn't significantly impact your training it can develop into something long term which is more problematic. Don't just focus on your hands and arms / shoulders, but stretch out your lower back, knees and upper legs as well (this might seem obvious but I have known a lot of people who, even after climbing a decent amount and knowing better, underestimate or ignore how much strain it can put on your lower body). Even after a good warm up, do some easy climbs at the start of your session, no matter how much you want to jump on that problem which evaded you last time. Losing weight will generally make a major improvement to your performance and reduce risk of injury (since ultimately most of the forces acting on your body during a climb depend on your weight) so anything else you do which will help with that will also be beneficial. If you have a door frame where you can easily set up a pull up bar it's a useful thing to have access to for a lot of exercises (some of which can help in injury avoidance) which can be helpful even when you're fairly new to climbing, or to get in some extra training if you don't have time / inclination to go to a climbing wall, but it's very much not required.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2023 21:54
|
|
|
I'll second just climbing. If you're not climbing 3x a week, then trying to get to roughly that will.be by far the most efficient way to improve. I'd do that focusing on only having fun for some time (let's say 6 months). Once that arbitrary time limit is done or if you're the kind of person that really enjoys more structured stuff, the second thing would be to climb with more intention. Watch videos and incorporate drills, notice when you talk yourself out of doing certain types of problem and force yourself to do them, film yourself and try to notice things to improve, start timing your rests, etc. When it comes to injury prevention, stopping early, eating and sleeping well, warming up properly and being fit overall at the best tools you have.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2023 22:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2024 16:11 |
|
|
Just climb. Eventually you will be as strong as the 12 year old girls at the gym.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2023 22:12
|
|
