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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Uhh... drain plugs are supposed to be finger tight, right? :ohdear:

Can't believe it didn't back out. I was the last one to change the oil on the Matrix, and it's been a year (if not a little longer). At least it has fresh oil now. SO is driving a lot more than last year, I think that oil had almost 8k on it (and it definitely looked/smelled like it). Usually she only puts 4k on it a year.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:04 on Jul 22, 2023

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Valt
May 14, 2006

Oh HELL yeah.
Ultra Carp

Raluek posted:

did you clear over the patina, or is it weirdly glossy for some other reason?

No it has patina sauce on it which is an oil based finish. I had just finished putting it on there so it’s a bit shinier than what it normally is.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe

Valt posted:

No it has patina sauce on it which is an oil based finish. I had just finished putting it on there so it’s a bit shinier than what it normally is.

shine juice baby

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Just put a fresh coat of slurp juice on the Bronco.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
Just replaced the oil in my wife's Yukon with the 6.2L gas engine. Takes 8 quarts! The oil filter was on so tight I was swearing the free new car dealer change--strap wrench started crushing the thing and ended up having to drive the screwdriver in. Still a bear, though.

Does partially filling the oil filter make sense before you put it on? I've done it occasionally but given its position in the crankcase I wonder if it generally just fills when you top-fill. If it's a good practice how much do you fill it?

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
I've always put a bit in out of habit because that's what my dad probably told me when I learned how as a teenager. A dab around the rubber gasket and pour just enough in and swirl it around to get it into the filter. I don't think you need to top it off or anything.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Valt posted:

I have no intention of changing the truck and the tail light has already been fixed.

Excellent. You are a person of taste.

Raluek posted:

did you clear over the patina, or is it weirdly glossy for some other reason?

It’s either that or “shine juice”, like Sweet Patina’s stuff.

Edit: oh, another page! Shine juice confirmed.

I put some oil in the oil filter. Depends on how it’s oriented in the car.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Hed posted:

Just replaced the oil in my wife's Yukon with the 6.2L gas engine. Takes 8 quarts! The oil filter was on so tight I was swearing the free new car dealer change--strap wrench started crushing the thing and ended up having to drive the screwdriver in. Still a bear, though.

Does partially filling the oil filter make sense before you put it on? I've done it occasionally but given its position in the crankcase I wonder if it generally just fills when you top-fill. If it's a good practice how much do you fill it?

Yes. As much as I can that won't spill during installation. If it threads up I'll fill it all the way. Threads down I'll wet the element. Sideways I'll wet the element plus a little more.

The idea is to reduce the time the engine is running without oil pressure as much as possible.

I'd guess the gain is almost 0. Anything short of a full rebuild usually primes almost instantly. But it's low effort for something very expensive.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe
Took this cooler day to install my Hurst Line Lock. In doing so, I bumped into a spark plug wire, and noticed it rotated a bit funny. Upon further inspection:



Two of my ceramic wires had broken wires and one had a cracked insulator. Sucks to have a $160 set of wires fail within 2 years. I'll probably put heat boots over then as additional protection.

Line lock is in and plumbed. I have to wire the relay to the switch and pushbutton, and trim the adhesive tape. Just a little buttoning up.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

You should do a burnout.

Valt
May 14, 2006

Oh HELL yeah.
Ultra Carp
Alright got the 307 out today and made a bunch of progress on the 383. I got the new cam and the rocker arms both are at least in the motor. I'm still waiting on the pushrods to fully get the cam in. But I pulled the HEI off of the 307 and temporarily stabbed it on the 383. I also painted the pulleys and the headers because I refuse to put a bunch of gross rusty stuff on this motor.




Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
huh, white headers. have i been wrong my whole life, with black ones? thats a good look.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...
White headers is kind of a classic hot rod thing. I've got kind of a weird soft spot for the 307 but I absolutely recognize that it's pretty much a boat anchor.

Valt
May 14, 2006

Oh HELL yeah.
Ultra Carp

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

White headers is kind of a classic hot rod thing. I've got kind of a weird soft spot for the 307 but I absolutely recognize that it's pretty much a boat anchor.

Yeah with the old school camel hump heads and the old school holley single plane it seemed like the white headers made sense.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Hed posted:

Just replaced the oil in my wife's Yukon with the 6.2L gas engine. Takes 8 quarts! The oil filter was on so tight I was swearing the free new car dealer change--strap wrench started crushing the thing and ended up having to drive the screwdriver in. Still a bear, though.

Does partially filling the oil filter make sense before you put it on? I've done it occasionally but given its position in the crankcase I wonder if it generally just fills when you top-fill. If it's a good practice how much do you fill it?

The 5.3 also takes 8.5 quarts. It's a very annoying number when I buy it in packs of 6qts. Always a remainder.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe

honda whisperer posted:

You should do a burnout.

I'm not sure a 5 cylinder boosted burnout is great for the long term health of the drivetrain. I will however, perform a full function test when the new plug wires arrive.

Night Danger Moose
Jan 5, 2004

YO SOY FIESTA

Spent 3 hours doing wash -> clay bar -> wash on the camry in the morning, then 4 hours doing front sway bar bushings and front passenger axle. The bushings were a 10 minute job and the axle literally could not have gone better. No fire, no air hammer, nothing broken. It went so smooth that I basically forgot to take pictures during it, other than one showing the axle boot delete. This car is so good to work on.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




I hate the rust belt, feel my envy

Night Danger Moose
Jan 5, 2004

YO SOY FIESTA

Suburban Dad posted:

I hate the rust belt, feel my envy

This car has been in Maryland its whole life so it's not exactly in a rust-free zone, the exhaust is just a suggestion and a brake line rusted through resulting in our first project. The axle had been replaced with an aftermarket one before which made it easier to remove than it would have been if it was OEM. I sprayed everything with penetrant Friday after work to help ease the project.

evobatman
Jul 30, 2006

it means nothing, but says everything!
Pillbug
Speaking of rust, just found this on my Honda when I was doing a tiny bit of tidying and interior cleaning today:



Those rust spots are coming from inside the double firewall. I've postponed looking in the footwell as long as possible, because I was afraid that this is what I would find.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Today I took out the intercooler and all the connections on my saab, I cleaned them inside and outside. There was a film of oil inside the pipes and the most oil was to be found near the turbo, I fear the turbo might have it's better days behind it. I dunno if new turbos are easy to get, or if you try and have them refurbished or what have you.



Everything back in and cleaned up


I found a 9/32nds socket fits perfectly on the clamps, way nicer than using a flat head screwdriver

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer

His Divine Shadow posted:

There was a film of oil inside the pipes and the most oil was to be found near the turbo, I fear the turbo might have it's better days behind it. I dunno if new turbos are easy to get, or if you try and have them refurbished or what have you.

A worn turbo will put oil in your intercooler, but even a completely healthy system will always have a little oil in there in my experience, the PCV can also be the cause. I don't know if your car has the Garrett T3 or the Mitsubishi TE05, but they're both common and easy to find (and/or get refurbished).

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



His Divine Shadow posted:

I found a 9/32nds socket fits perfectly on the clamps, way nicer than using a flat head screwdriver


A 7mm socket will fit even better as that is what size the head is!

Buy yourself a 7mm flexible hose clip driver and stop using screwdrivers on hose clamps:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-Flexible-Shaft-Hose-Driver/dp/B00OKTWUIW

some oil in the pipes is normal for an old saab. If it doesn't smoke out of the exhaust your turbo is OK

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Hed posted:

Just replaced the oil in my wife's Yukon with the 6.2L gas engine. Takes 8 quarts! The oil filter was on so tight I was swearing the free new car dealer change--strap wrench started crushing the thing and ended up having to drive the screwdriver in. Still a bear, though.

Does partially filling the oil filter make sense before you put it on? I've done it occasionally but given its position in the crankcase I wonder if it generally just fills when you top-fill. If it's a good practice how much do you fill it?

Newer GMs shut off fuel if you hold the throttle to the floor while cranking; on my Saturn I would crank it until the oil light went out. But it also had a cartridge filter - no pre-filling that thing.

I would try this on a regular day (not oil change day) in case it does fire up, that way you don't bang the rev limiter with no oil flow. If you're still cranking and let go of the throttle, it'll start normally. But I figure turning over at a couple of hundred RPM while there's still a film of oil on everything isn't going to hurt.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Tomarse posted:

A 7mm socket will fit even better as that is what size the head is!

Buy yourself a 7mm flexible hose clip driver and stop using screwdrivers on hose clamps:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-Flexible-Shaft-Hose-Driver/dp/B00OKTWUIW

some oil in the pipes is normal for an old saab. If it doesn't smoke out of the exhaust your turbo is OK

I do have a 7mm socket and tried it first, but I had to fight to get it on every time. I think with age and use they become buggered and small dings makes it hard to fit, so the extra slop of the inch socket really made it easier for me to use that one.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

Hed posted:

Just replaced the oil in my wife's Yukon with the 6.2L gas engine. Takes 8 quarts! The oil filter was on so tight I was swearing the free new car dealer change--strap wrench started crushing the thing and ended up having to drive the screwdriver in. Still a bear, though.

Does partially filling the oil filter make sense before you put it on? I've done it occasionally but given its position in the crankcase I wonder if it generally just fills when you top-fill. If it's a good practice how much do you fill it?


honda whisperer posted:

Yes. As much as I can that won't spill during installation. If it threads up I'll fill it all the way. Threads down I'll wet the element. Sideways I'll wet the element plus a little more.

The idea is to reduce the time the engine is running without oil pressure as much as possible.

I'd guess the gain is almost 0. Anything short of a full rebuild usually primes almost instantly. But it's low effort for something very expensive.

I've seen the argument being made that prefilling is pointless outside rebuilds, and increases the risk of introducing contaminants since the oil being poured in is unfiltered. It's was a while since I saw a video on it, but I think some industrial applications (maybe CAT) specifically forbids the practice when changing oils in engines.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

MrOnBicycle posted:

I've seen the argument being made that prefilling is pointless outside rebuilds, and increases the risk of introducing contaminants since the oil being poured in is unfiltered. It's was a while since I saw a video on it, but I think some industrial applications (maybe CAT) specifically forbids the practice when changing oils in engines.

The not very often times when I fill a filter before putting it on, I usually pour the oil in to the big hole in the middle, which IIRC, is the inlet for the filter, so that oil would still have to go through the element before going out to the engine.

Compared to how many times, I or anyone else has probably dumped oil through a valve cover, or other oil fill and probably had poo poo fall in there because we didn't get 100% of the crud off the area around the cap, which then goes down to the pan, and in to the pump.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

MrOnBicycle posted:

I've seen the argument being made that prefilling is pointless outside rebuilds

As long as the car hasn't been sitting for a good bit (I'm talking 6+ months), there should be enough oil remaining on everything to handle a start after an oil change, so long as you don't give it any throttle until the oil light goes out.

Synthetic will cling a bit better, supposedly, which is why I switched to it ages ago. Even the cheapest synthetic (Kirkland, Walmart Supertech) is pretty good these days (and Kirkland + Supertech are made by the same company with a nearly identical additive package, and BITOG tests show them to be nearly identical in performance to each other, close to much more expensive oils too). Supertech does have kind of a funky smell that Mobil 1 doesn't, but for $13 less for 5 quarts ($23 for a 5 quart jug of high mileage 5w30), I'm not gonna bitch.

Reminds me, I need to go play chemist with all the partials in the garage, I should have enough for the next oil change on the Matrix. It hasn't ever needed topping off (yet), and with me not having a car anymore, all that oil is just taking up space. Figure I can mix it all and run it for 2-3k safely.. it's all 5w20 and 5w30, I'll probably do that for the winter since some is a little thinner than what the manual calls for.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Valt posted:

Alright got the 307 out today and made a bunch of progress on the 383. I got the new cam and the rocker arms both are at least in the motor. I'm still waiting on the pushrods to fully get the cam in. But I pulled the HEI off of the 307 and temporarily stabbed it on the 383. I also painted the pulleys and the headers because I refuse to put a bunch of gross rusty stuff on this motor.






I'm the same way. I won't reinstall crusty stuff unless there is just no time (or it's someone else's. Even then, it gets a wipe down/cleaning.)
I'd... also power wash that engine bay while the engine is out. Maybe paint a few things. Or the entire engine bay. I've done that before. Twice.

I'm all for the outside to have patina, but I want where I gotta do work at least clean.

Raluek posted:

huh, white headers. have i been wrong my whole life, with black ones? thats a good look.

Yes, yes you have.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

White headers is kind of a classic hot rod thing. I've got kind of a weird soft spot for the 307 but I absolutely recognize that it's pretty much a boat anchor.

It has "small-block Chevy" going for it, but aside from that, yeah, pretty much.


Installed new headlights on the Crown Vic, since one of the side markers did this:


Turns out the other one was also not long for the world:


The side markers in black are not available separately, so it was an entire set of headlights and side markers, if I wanted black. Which I did. The OEM all-chrome looks cheap.
But for just a bit more, I could get what I hope is an upgrade in lighting.
Behold:


Not HID - just H3s in projectors and separate high-beam H1s in basically a flood light, plus some LED strips that could be used as DRLs (currently running off of the side marker connection, so just park lights for now) Cutoff is nice and sharp. Designers made some choices vis-a-vis mounting that makes adjusting them while installed impossible, which is frustrating. The cheap rear end-Depo aftermarket headlights have the factory-style adjusters, you imbeciles. Why didn't you just repurpose those? It took me a few attempts to get the right side one about right, and I just copied the mount distances to the left one. It appears to be just a smidge high, though, so I'll have to pull that one back out. I want them both below the hood line. I hate being blinded by misaimed headlights, so I refuse to do it myself.
Otherwise seem to be decent. Plugged in properly (they're using an adapter harness to split the single 9007 plug to the two separate bulbs, and another one to go from an 2157 to 1157, plus the 1194 wedge base to the LED.) Turn signal/park light is moved to the outer edge to also serve as the side marker - OEM is inboard of the headlight.
I tried a pair of 1157 amber LEDs I happened to have on hand, but they're older bulbs and extremely lacking compared to the 1157 incandescants:

(LED on the passenger side - left of the photo.)

Bonus shot of in-progress lop-eyed CV:

:pwn:


I need to remember to bring the tools I need to remove and adjust the headlights to work with me. The parking garage is perfect to aim them. Dark enough, cooler than my driveway, and lots of nice walls I can use to aim them on. The sharp cutoff of the projectors makes that a bit easier, too.

If I get a wild hair, I might see about retrofitting the OEM mounting/adjusters onto these things. I think I can do it, maybe with some 3D printing. On the other hand, once they're adjusted, it shouldn't be an issue unless I load down the trunk or haul a trailer or otherwise change the attitude of the car.

heffray
Sep 18, 2010

New street wheels: Konig Heliogram 18x9.5" +38, General G-Max RS 275/40-18 square. The sidewalls are bulgier than the previous Hankook RS4s I've had in this geometry, but there's an entire 1.5mm of clearance between the front sidewall and the strut. Clearance on the 6 piston C7 Z06 calipers (over 2pc G6 Camaro rotors) is fine. Rear fenders were already rolled, which they'd need with this setup. I could fit another 15mm of tire on the inside of the rear, but then I wouldn't be able to have a square setup. Ride quality is a bit better than with the stock 19s, and it'll be nice to be able to rotate tires.

heffray fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Jul 26, 2023

Mr-Spain
Aug 27, 2003

Bullshit... you can be mine.
Yessss I love more actual sidewall on these cars. I'm running +10 width over stock and the next size up aspect ratio as well and just that also makes the ride much better. I'd probably have to roll the rears for the 285's that are on there if I was lowered, but no problems so far.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I fixed a vacuum leak from the turbo bypass valve! *proud*

Night Danger Moose
Jan 5, 2004

YO SOY FIESTA

Replaced the starter on the Camry. It was getting stuck and causing the battery to drain. We tested the battery before changing the starter and it measured 374cca - replace. After changing the starter, 562cca - good. The starter was a very straightforward job, only had to remove the battery to get to it. This car is a marvel to work on. Figuring out the AC issue is next. Anyone know someone in the DMV area with an r12 machine to evac it? I could just park it in a corner of the lot and let er rip overnight but I'd rather not be that guy.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I know on my Lexus (3.5 V6), the starter was on top of the transaxle - remove the battery and airbox and it's right there. Easiest starter job I've ever done.

Didn't realize Toyota had them on top that long ago.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe

honda whisperer posted:

You should do a burnout.

not pictured: the actual burnout. Just a mild spin.

https://imgur.com/a/Hfs20lw

I put the ceramic plug wires on, and got heat boots for additional protection put on before going to the track.

EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Jul 31, 2023

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Spent every bit of energy i've had for the last month cleaning
the garage so i can put that rear end on the floor.



I can get the long jacks onto the front crossmember and completely lift the car with just the foot pedal but if the stick is locked in the the upright position it gets stuck against the bumper and you have to partially disassemble the lowering mechanism to release it. They can also lift it high enough to get the frame onto the highest level of the 12 ton jack stands. I've never felt more OSHA compliant.




Inspecting stuff:

I think i can slide the bumper supports back into the frame to suck the bumper up flush



I think the whole steering is going to have to come apart to get the starter out.



This thing has bottomed out a lot. I'm either getting too rowdy with it or not rowdy enough. The current level of rowdy is clearly incorrect. Everything is leaking, diff input, trans input, pan, output. rear main, front main, oil pan, valve covers. I think in the spring i'll have to pull it apart and reseal. Maybe even save to p...p....p....p....pay someone to do it.



While i was already laying on the creeper unable to get up i figured i would scoot under the toyota to see what it's going to take to get the gas tank out. It was undercoated with the tank out so it might be salvagable. I can already spot ~30 nuts and bolts that are not going come out willingly, but the underside of the body is in incredibly good shape. I think the rocker rust is entirely from sitting in the grass for 20 years.

The heads of some of the nuts and bolts under there are going to be a battle. There's a pretty short list of stuff left ahead of this thing.


Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


I was able to get the starter in without pulling the steering stuff, i just had to turn the wheels back and forth, put it in upside down and backwards, and smash my fingers between it and the cross member a dozen times.




I wonder how long that's been gone.

The starter cable has been fraying for a while now, and when you own a hydraulic crimper you use any excuse to use it.




Also tried a few times to fix the exhaust leak, but it's a strange piece and i can't quite find the right fix.

Full Collapse
Dec 4, 2002

Extremely triggered seeing red cable as ground. 😬

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Full Collapse posted:

Extremely triggered seeing red cable as ground. 😬

It's not, that's positive.It goes into the junction box for the fusible link before going to the starter.

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Full Collapse
Dec 4, 2002

Powershift posted:

It's not, that's positive.

What?

I have questions about that junction. From the picture, it looked bolted to the chassis without an insulator.

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