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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

TerminalSaint posted:

Figured as much. Incidentally the buzzing noise was probably because whomever was on the line that day couldn't be bothered to actually attach one corner of the compressor bracket.


Chabuduo

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Lawnie
Sep 6, 2006

That is my helmet
Give it back
you are a lion
It doesn't even fit
Grimey Drawer
A tree service was cutting down a couple across the street from me yesterday. I need to re-mulch my garden pathways, and that would have been perfect. Too bad they were cutting down mulberries, which would not only be extremely sticky, I’d have a forest of mulberry shoots everywhere next spring.

sexy tiger boobs
Aug 23, 2002

Up shit creek with a turd for a paddle.

GlyphGryph posted:

The compost suggestion sent me down a rabbithole and apparently any I can sterilize they make an excellent substrate for setting up some wine cap beds, so maybe I can do that with some of them. I think there's too many (I'm guessing the previous owners were planning on replacing the entire yard with them and then some? Or maybe chipped a whole tree or something and just left them there?) for that to be the whole solution so maybe a combination of all three options is best.

FYI, sterilizing them is probably overkill. Wine caps are super vigorous. I used random hardwood chips from the city and they burned through it in a couple seasons with no sterilizing.

Highbrow Slick
Jul 1, 2007

it is a fool who stays alive - but such fools are we.
Hey all, hoping for some feedback on a quote for blown in insulation and possibly an attic fan.

I have a 1250 sq ft townhouse style condo (1 attached neighbor at the kitchen, single level) and recently checked my projected PG&E bill for the upcoming month. Despite keeping the thermostat at 80, our upcoming bill was projected to be $763. So that’s not fun. For context, we are in California’s Central Valley which has very dry hot summers where temps stay above 100 for weeks at a time.

When I had the condo inspected before buying in 2018, I learned the a/c unit is pretty old, the windows are all single pane, and the insulation (probably from 1971 when the complex was built) ranged from 5-8 inches deep (R-14 to R-22 per inspection report whereas standard in this area is R-38). So these are all things that have been on our radar for a while.

Aside from raising the thermostat to 85, I thought the most cost effective method to lower energy costs might be to finally add some blown-in insulation, so I had a contractor out today to provide a quote. They did not count the square footage from the 250 sq ft living room as it has a vaulted ceiling with no attic access, so the insulation would cover the remaining 1000sq ft. They also suggested adding an attic fan to help keep the crawl space attic cool. They provided these numbers:

100 sq ft insulation (premium Johns Manville fiberglass) $1500
Smart Gable 3 speed Attic fan $850
Total $2350



Would you consider this reasonable?
Would it likely help combat energy costs?
Would added insulation help in the winter?
Is adding an attic fan worth $850?

I had them schedule installation August 2nd but I can cancel anytime before then. Thanks


e: tried to upload an image of the quote but I can’t remember if Imgur is dead or what bc it’s not showing up for me in this post

Highbrow Slick fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jul 25, 2023

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Highbrow Slick posted:

Aside from raising the thermostat to 85, I though the most cost effective method to lower energy costs might be to finally add some blown-in insulation

Based on what? An actual energy audit that identified this as the best bang for the buck or based on a pre purchase inspection report from 5 years ago?

I'm happy to answer your stated question as well....that's a reasonable cost for rolling out some fiberglass....depending on where you live. Labor costs are very local. But I'm afraid you may be asking the wrong question.

Spikes32
Jul 25, 2013

Happy trees
What controls the attic fan, and is it an attic fan or whole house fan? For reference we had 2100 Sq ft of insulation (crawl and attic) plus a whole hour fan installed for 8k in east bay.

Highbrow Slick
Jul 1, 2007

it is a fool who stays alive - but such fools are we.

Motronic posted:

Based on what? An actual energy audit that identified this as the best bang for the buck or based on a pre purchase inspection report from 5 years ago?

I'm happy to answer your stated question as well....that's a reasonable cost for rolling out some fiberglass....depending on where you live. Labor costs are very local. But I'm afraid you may be asking the wrong question.

Based on my admittedly uneducated reading of the inspection report that indicated 5 years ago the insulation was significantly lower than standard. It sounds like you’re suggesting an energy audit before committing to any project. If so that makes sense, thank you. If there’s another question I should be asking that you can suggest I appreciate that as well.

Spikes32 posted:

What controls the attic fan, and is it an attic fan or whole house fan? For reference we had 2100 Sq ft of insulation (crawl and attic) plus a whole hour fan installed for 8k in east bay.

The attic fan is controlled by an app which I am wary of but oh well. It’s not a whole house fan, it pushes hot air out of the attic but doesn’t draw outside air into the house by my understanding.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Highbrow Slick posted:

It sounds like you’re suggesting an energy audit before committing to any project. If so that makes sense, thank you. If there’s another question I should be asking that you can suggest I appreciate that as well.

Nope, just making sure that was the sum total of you information before saying: yes, you need an energy audit. And I bet you can get one for free from your power company.

You might be right about the best course of action, but you may not be. Insulation is important, but air sealing is both cheaper and WAY more important. You have to cover the basics first.

Also, any attic fan advice is very reliant on your roof type/shape and if you have a ridge vent or not. The energy audit should cover this.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Verman, I desperately need to know if there is a conclusion to the tree removal saga. Did the original company complete the work without further incident or did you end up kicking them to the curb to get someone else?

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

Highbrow Slick posted:


I have a 1250 sq ft townhouse style condo (1 attached neighbor at the kitchen, single level) and recently checked my projected PG&E bill for the upcoming month. Despite keeping the thermostat at 80, our upcoming bill was projected to be $763. So that’s not fun. For context, we are in California’s Central Valley which has very dry hot summers where temps stay above 100 for weeks at a time.


Yo this seems like almost impossibly high what’s going on there?

Douche4Sale
May 8, 2003

...and then God said, "Let there be douche!"

Does your a/c run nonstop all day? You don't really state that, just that it's hot and you have the thermostat set at a temperature. If so then carry on. If not, verify something else isn't causing that high energy usage. Old appliances, especially refrigerators and freezers can use a lot of energy too.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


Forced attic ventilation is generally a bad idea outside of special circumstances. It tends to pull conditioned air up from the living space.

An energy audit would be a very good idea, so you aren't just throwing money at a sub optimal solution. It might be that replacing/sealing the windows, sealing the attic, or sealing up duct leaks would be the biggest bang for your buck. That said, adding more insulation to the attic isn't going to hurt anything, and probably will reduce some energy leakage. It's just a question of whether that's where most of the heat energy is getting in or not.

Also, holy poo poo $800 for electricity, that's insane

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Yeah, seriously, is there a door open all day?

You probably have bigger problems to fix before digging into this.

George H.W. Cunt
Oct 6, 2010





You’ll likely have a hell of a better time suck, sealing, and spraying than just adding more insulation.

100 HOGS AGREE
Oct 13, 2007
Grimey Drawer
I haven't had insulation in my attic for a week since I had a bunch of asbestos-contaminated vermiculite removed, I'm getting new insulation this week but it has been a huge struggle to keep the house cool after midday, the attic just stores so much heat.

Dude quoted me two grand for 1400 sqft, 6.5" of cellulose insulation (supplies and labor) and also doing the band joist in the basement and I was like lol no triple that amount of insulation and seal everything please. Maybe he'll actually give me an update quote before he shows up lol.

100 HOGS AGREE
Oct 13, 2007
Grimey Drawer

100 HOGS AGREE posted:

I haven't had insulation in my attic for a week since I had a bunch of asbestos-contaminated vermiculite removed, I'm getting new insulation this week but it has been a huge struggle to keep the house cool after midday, the attic just stores so much heat.

Dude quoted me two grand for 1400 sqft, 6.5" of cellulose insulation (supplies and labor) and also doing spray on for band joist in the basement and I was like lol no triple that amount of insulation and seal everything please. Maybe he'll actually give me an update quote before he shows up lol.

Highbrow Slick
Jul 1, 2007

it is a fool who stays alive - but such fools are we.
In the four days since we turned the thermostat to 85, the projected energy bill dropped from $763 to $658 so it’s almost certainly cooling related. Generally the a/c doesn’t kick on until between noon and 1pm depending on that day’s high, and it cycles on and off regularly.

This past spring we’d have bills around $150/month during fair weather.

I also suspect we lose a lot due to leaky windows and the old a/c (not sure exactly how old), but we are three years out from being done with the mortgage and really want to avoid $$$$$ projects until then.

Highbrow Slick fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Jul 25, 2023

Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!
Do three of your neighbors have their HVAC units tied into your electric panel?

Highbrow Slick
Jul 1, 2007

it is a fool who stays alive - but such fools are we.

Tremors posted:

Do three of your neighbors have their HVAC units tied into your electric panel?

It is funny you mention that because our one adjoining neighbor’s water shutoff is also our water shutoff located in our private backyard, so anytime they are doing plumbing stuff they have to ask us to shut off their water

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

I always enjoy these onion peeling "please help me" posts.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Call PG&E get a free energy audit

Yeah I agree probably they're going to tell you to tape up all your air leaks, unfuck your ducting, and get an AC service (or just replace it)

3M makes some really bitchin ceramic heat film that you stick on the inside of the window

We live inland East Bay (so cooler, but not by a lot) and our bill for ,2250sq ft was $425 and we have a pool pump running pretty much 24/7

I do open all the windows every night so the house is chilled to 65F for about 6 hours every night though

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

Highbrow Slick posted:

In the four days since we turned the thermostat to 85, the projected energy bill dropped from $763 to $658 so it’s almost certainly cooling related. Generally the a/c doesn’t kick on until between noon and 1pm depending on that day’s high, and it cycles on and off regularly.

This past spring we’d have bills around $150/month during fair weather.

I also suspect we lose a lot due to leaky windows and the old a/c (not sure exactly how old), but we are three years out from being done with the mortgage and really want to avoid $$$$$ projects until then.

Even $658 seems ridiculously high for such a small place.

How much per KW are you paying? I’m in LA and my bill is like $120 this month and that’s running my ac all night.

Highbrow Slick
Jul 1, 2007

it is a fool who stays alive - but such fools are we.

MarcusSA posted:

Even $658 seems ridiculously high for such a small place.

How much per KW are you paying? I’m in LA and my bill is like $120 this month and that’s running my ac all night.

My cycle runs through August 8th so I imagine it’ll get down around 500-550 which is about typical for the hottest months here since I’ve moved in. I’m not sure what my kwh rate is but I’m on the standard pge plan, not a flex or whatever where they charge you more from 5-9pm

Bobcats
Aug 5, 2004
Oh
Aww yeah the GE dusk-dawn bulbs don’t interfere with each other in the same fixture. No more forgetting the porch light!

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

MarcusSA posted:

Even $658 seems ridiculously high for such a small place.

How much per KW are you paying? I’m in LA and my bill is like $120 this month and that’s running my ac all night.
Agreed. I hate leased solar with power purchase agreements but that might start to make sense here.

I'd go find my power meter and verify what the instantaneous reading is in the afternoon. Then turn off the AC and see what the change is. Start dialing in what is pulling so much juice.

Highbrow Slick
Jul 1, 2007

it is a fool who stays alive - but such fools are we.

Hadlock posted:

Call PG&E get a free energy audit

Yeah I agree probably they're going to tell you to tape up all your air leaks, unfuck your ducting, and get an AC service (or just replace it)


I do open all the windows every night so the house is chilled to 65F for about 6 hours every night though

Thanks for the advice, sounds like checking the sealing is a consensus of something I should look into.

We do try to open windows at night to help cool the house down but this past week or so it doesn’t even get down to like 75 outside until about 4am, most nights it’s been over 90 until around 11pm 🥵

LLSix
Jan 20, 2010

The real power behind countless overlords

Highbrow Slick posted:

In the four days since we turned the thermostat to 85, the projected energy bill dropped from $763 to $658 so it’s almost certainly cooling related. Generally the a/c doesn’t kick on until between noon and 1pm depending on that day’s high, and it cycles on and off regularly.

This past spring we’d have bills around $150/month during fair weather.

I also suspect we lose a lot due to leaky windows and the old a/c (not sure exactly how old), but we are three years out from being done with the mortgage and really want to avoid $$$$$ projects until then.

Turning your thermostat up 5 degrees only decreased your energy usage by ~13%. That seems so low I have a hard time believing your AC is your main electricity cost. What happens to your "projected energy bill" if you turn your thermostat off or set it to 120?

We live in Texas with similar regular 100+ degree days and our electric bill has never been three figures. (Door handles are literally too hot to touch here, I've started carrying a hand towel to open doors with.)

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Stop talking about your dollar total and start talking your energy usage in KwH. Bills are different in different parts of the country, and the fee structure usually isn't a flat $/KwH so it muddles the waters when you're trying to convey your usage.

For comparison to your numbers, my single family house is 900 sqft in Texas, has 13 wooden single pane windows from 1950, and even then my highest monthly energy usage has been like 1,500 KwH. My AC is about 45% of my energy bill this cycle. I've put a lot of work into reinsulating and sealing things up as I work on the house, but even before all of that my energy bills weren't crazy like yours.

You've definitely got something crazy going on, like you have a SEER 1 unit or all your neighbors are using your breaker box, or you accidentally have resistive heating strips in your furnace on with your AC.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

My highest energy bill so far in 5 years living in this house was 2967 kWh last year between June 24th and July 25th. I expect the bill this month when the meter gets read in 2 days to surpass that with the string of 100 degree days we've had.

We use a ton of electricity though. Even in winter (and I have gas heat) we use north of 1200 kWh, last December was almost 1300 kWh. I should really spend some time and work on decreasing that.

Highbrow Slick
Jul 1, 2007

it is a fool who stays alive - but such fools are we.

SpartanIvy posted:

Stop talking about your dollar total and start talking your energy usage in KwH. Bills are different in different parts of the country, and the fee structure usually isn't a flat $/KwH so it muddles the waters when you're trying to convey your usage.

For comparison to your numbers, my single family house is 900 sqft in Texas, has 13 wooden single pane windows from 1950, and even then my highest monthly energy usage has been like 1,500 KwH. My AC is about 45% of my energy bill this cycle. I've put a lot of work into reinsulating and sealing things up as I work on the house, but even before all of that my energy bills weren't crazy like yours.

You've definitely got something crazy going on, like you have a SEER 1 unit or all your neighbors are using your breaker box, or you accidentally have resistive heating strips in your furnace on with your AC.

Sorry, I know there are a lot of super knowledgeable folks in this thread, and I’ve lurked it for a long long time even if I’m not doing everything exactly right. I know a lot of folks in here can be gruff but they’re helpful, so I appreciate that.

PG&E in my region of California using my pricing plan charges $0.333 per kWh for the first 398.4 kWh (tier 1), then $0.44 per kWh for tier 2. For reference, last billing cycle (June 9 through July 10) I used 566.4 kWh in tier 1 and 268.6 of kWh tier 2. My bill last month was $335.35, which includes gas that I didn’t calculate because it doesn’t amount to a whole lot in this case. (e: I went back and looked, gas was about $28 of the $335)

June was decently mild so we used a/c significantly less than the hellfire of July, but still used it a decent amount.

e: the math on when different tiers kick in looks weird because they overlap months

Highbrow Slick fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Jul 25, 2023

illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.

SpartanIvy posted:

Stop talking about your dollar total and start talking your energy usage in KwH. Bills are different in different parts of the country, and the fee structure usually isn't a flat $/KwH so it muddles the waters when you're trying to convey your usage.

For comparison to your numbers, my single family house is 900 sqft in Texas, has 13 wooden single pane windows from 1950, and even then my highest monthly energy usage has been like 1,500 KwH. My AC is about 45% of my energy bill this cycle. I've put a lot of work into reinsulating and sealing things up as I work on the house, but even before all of that my energy bills weren't crazy like yours.

You've definitely got something crazy going on, like you have a SEER 1 unit or all your neighbors are using your breaker box, or you accidentally have resistive heating strips in your furnace on with your AC.

For what it’s worth, that kind of usage in San Diego, for instance, would be a roughly $7-800 bill. I think PG&E is about a third cheaper than SDG&E, so in the $5-600 range. poo poo sucks in California.

Tricky Ed
Aug 18, 2010

It is important to avoid confusion. This is the one that's okay to lick.


Highbrow Slick posted:

1000 sq ft insulation (premium Johns Manville fiberglass) $1500
Smart Gable 3 speed Attic fan $850
Total $2350

This is a reasonable quote for this work, but as others have pointed out there appears to be something else going on. My suspicion is a busted duct somewhere, or a low charge of coolant making your AC work harder to less effect, but you will want a pro to identify what is happening in your house to cause that much power draw.

You'll probably end up adding that insulation anyway since it's usually a huge win. Or it may end up that attic insulation won't help much due to the cathedral ceiling. I think passive ventilation will probably be more cost effective than that fan, though. You have to have a balance of inflow to match your outflow, or you just suck conditioned air out of your house. You should find out if there are regulations about fireproofing your eave vents in your area if you go down that road.

Either way starting with an audit will help you identify and prioritize the problems. I wish you luck. I know that's miserable.

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

Highbrow Slick posted:

Sorry, I know there are a lot of super knowledgeable folks in this thread, and I’ve lurked it for a long long time even if I’m not doing everything exactly right. I know a lot of folks in here can be gruff but they’re helpful, so I appreciate that.

PG&E in my region of California using my pricing plan charges $0.333 per kWh for the first 398.4 kWh (tier 1), then $0.44 per kWh for tier 2. For reference, last billing cycle (June 9 through July 10) I used 566.4 kWh in tier 1 and 268.6 of kWh tier 2. My bill last month was $335.35, which includes gas that I didn’t calculate because it doesn’t amount to a whole lot in this case. (e: I went back and looked, gas was about $28 of the $335)

June was decently mild so we used a/c significantly less than the hellfire of July, but still used it a decent amount.

e: the math on when different tiers kick in looks weird because they overlap months

Just to ask... are you sure you're not just seeing that weird glitch in the PG&E portal where it reports your bill as double what it actually charges?

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

Sirotan posted:

Verman, I desperately need to know if there is a conclusion to the tree removal saga. Did the original company complete the work without further incident or did you end up kicking them to the curb to get someone else?

Oh yeah sorry. I was going to wait until the work was done but now is as good of a time for an update. :words: incoming

So to recap: lots of action on day one. After they hit the lines, the ground crew cleaned up the downed wood for a bit but called it a day when the guy holding the rope realized he had been electrocuted. He went to the hospital afterwards and they transferred him to a larger trauma hospital that evening. He declined that evening and was admitted for two days. They recommended he stay a week or more but he left on his own. He went back to the hospital a few days later and has a lot of appointments with specialists. His speech and memory have slowly come back but still not normal. He hasn't been back to work since.

It took 10 hours for 3 bucket trucks and a dozen guys to get the power back on. My neighbors were blowing up our phones until it came on, asking for reimbursement for any losses of food in the fridge and possible hotel room. I apologized for the inconvenience but referred them to the arborist for any reimbursement. The boss called my wife when I was outside talking to the power company and apologized profusely, but stated a crew would be there tomorrow to keep going. She just went along with it and was unsure of how to proceed. We were both befuddled after what happened but if I had talked to him it might have been different.

The next morning I was up early to meet with the crew and talk to them to see if we were even going to proceed. I was instead greeted by a state labor and industry inspector. He told me he was there for the crew and I had nothing to worry about. He waited for them to arrive and called the boss when they didn't after 2 hours. They arrived late and he interviewed everybody and checked their gear. He denied them from working in the tree that day as they were short handed and lacked a backup climber and 2 sets of gear. He saw the one guys wrapped hand and asked about it. "oh, the saw fell out of the tree and hit me yesterday". :stare: "Yeeeeah I'm going to need you to fill this out as well" and gave him another incident report. He interviewed each one for about an hour or more. He was at my house for about 6 hours and sent the crew home. I chatted with him after and he said they weren't incompetent but were too lax on safety, and had poor supervision/management for their experience. He said this job is complex and needed an experienced crew. The climber made a bad judgement error and topped too big of a piece. He claimed any of these incidents could happen to the best crew and be truly considered a one time accident, but all of them in one day was a huge red flag. He suggested talking with the boss and requesting a new crew, or firing them and hiring someone else. He said their history was very clean and reputation was very positive.

That's when I started gathering my thoughts and decided to call the boss. I'm glad I outlined what I wanted to say. It stayed civil and non emotional. I informed him that I witnessed everything. I highlighted the lack of safety, protective equipment, communication and guidance. I told him I have zero confidence that the current crew can finish the job safely. He tried to reassure me that it was a fluke and their history/reviews reflect that. He tried convincing me this would be different but I told him I needed to see actions, not hear words. He started to hint that if I wanted to cancel the job, they would need to be paid for the time spent here and we would need to negotiate whatever that would be. I informed him for the first time about the chainsaw falling out of the tree and hitting the ground crew. He was speechless as nobody told him about it. I told him his guys showed up late and left early, they were only there for 4 hours and almost lost 50% of the crew, one by falling chainsaw and one by electrocution from hitting the power lines in that short time. "The total when broken down by days quoted and divided into an hourly rate, it would be $1500 for the 4 hours worked in a best case scenario and Monday was all but a best case scenario. Would you say your crew performed to their full potential for the 4 hours they were here? If we back out of this, I would prefer to come to an agreement on what is owed but if we can't I understand it could end up in small claims court or a lien but I don't think that's in either of our best interest." He backpedaled away from that conversation very quickly. He was very quiet but made his case to keep the work as his schedule was already booked for it and he felt confident it could be done safely. I could tell he was scrambling. I asked him if he had a more experienced crew. He said he did and he has already called to check their availability. I told him I needed to consider my options and would call him back in an hour with my decision.

I called him back and gave him the option of bringing in a new more experienced crew to finish the one tree they started to verify the competence of the new crew with the ability to terminate the contract for an altered price after this tree if we didn't want to move forward. I requested he be there in person at some point through the job to see how his crew works. I made a few requirements: All PPE would be worn at all times while on my property and anybody without it would be sent home. No pieces larger than 12' in length. Everything over 4' would be roped down. Two climbers on site with two sets of gear in case a recovery is needed, and to inspect each other's gear before going up. Nobody standing directly beneath the climber. Vocal communication between the climber and ground crew for every piece coming down. I told him if I saw anything that made me uncomfortable, they're done. He agreed to it and said he was going to have a safety meeting with the crew prior to the job to relay everything and go over the new plan. I told him I should not have to remind anybody about PPE. He said the guy coming is his most experienced climber/supervisor and regrets not having him there from day one.

Thursday came around. I was up early to meet the crew. The lead climber showed up and we talked for a bit before the rest showed up. He assessed the trees, asked about what happened and assured me of success, and at any point, to call it off. We went over his plan for the rest of the tree. The crew arrived and it was a night and day difference. They had their system down and were wearing all their gear. Communication was great, pieces were smaller and more manageable. The day went incredibly smoothly and I felt very confident in this crew. The climber talked to me about what he saw and how things went when he came down for his breaks. The boss called me in the middle of the day to see how things were going. They came back the next day to finish that tree on Friday and took it down to an 8' stump (which I'll probably have taken down even smaller. We agreed that with this crew, and only this crew, would they proceed so he rescheduled that crew to be at my house for the next tree but the schedule would change accordingly.

I was 100% ready to fire the company but I think we came to an agreeable arrangement. I'll be curious to see if the quote changes at all upon completion, but that will be another conversation. I'll gladly tip the crew in cash as I don't always trust small business owners to pay their crew well, especially if cost of the job changes. There was no up front down payment/deposit and our permit for stump grinding was rejected so that will be removed from the total bid.

The main trunk was topped a long time ago around 15'. The other 120 feet are all spurs that grew out of it. There were two that were 90% rotten at the base where they met the primary trunk. It's an absolute miracle they didn't come down in a wind storm. This is probably 24" wide and was about 100' tall.



My confidence is restored with this crew and I'm happy the project is continuing because the permit process has a limited time frame and the other companies are booked at least 5-6 weeks out which would probably lapse with our window.

It's been quite a week.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


Highbrow Slick: in the meantime you might want to go pick up a window unit or two and use that in the rooms you occupy while letting the rest of the house get warmer.

That's what we did when we were living in a near-original 1950s house in Texas build under the illusion that The Atom would soon make electricity "too cheap to meter". Single pane windows, literally zero insulation in the walls, uninsulated air ducting through the attic, and a thin blow in of cellulose in a tiny attic made for an oven. Using a window unit in the bedroom while we slept and in the office while I worked cut our overall use by half which easily paid for the units in two or three months.

Just don't get "portable" units.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Verman posted:

It's been quite a week.

Thanks for the update! I feel like this was probably the best possible outcome.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

Verman posted:

I made a few requirements: All PPE would be worn at all times while on my property and anybody without it would be sent home. No pieces larger than 12' in length. Everything over 4' would be roped down. Two climbers on site with two sets of gear in case a recovery is needed, and to inspect each other's gear before going up. Nobody standing directly beneath the climber. Vocal communication between the climber and ground crew for every piece coming down. I told him if I saw anything that made me uncomfortable, they're done. He agreed to it and said he was going to have a safety meeting with the crew prior to the job to relay everything and go over the new plan. I told him I should not have to remind anybody about PPE.
Good outcome. I still advise that the homeowner should never need to be the one to make these safety requirements explicit, especially after an incident. Should be standard practice. But I also understand the headache it would have been to start over with a new company especially due to the permitting time constraint. Thanks for sharing.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Verman posted:

My neighbors were blowing up our phones until it came on, asking for reimbursement for any losses of food in the fridge and possible hotel room. I apologized for the inconvenience but referred them to the arborist for any reimbursement.

I can't even........how embarrassing for them. What the hell kind of neighbors do you have?

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

Motronic posted:

I can't even........how embarrassing for them. What the hell kind of neighbors do you have?

The whole story was great I almost forgot about that piece in the middle.

Couple people almost dead cause some idiots hosed up a job and they're calling you to buy them dinner. Insane people. It's not like you were outside chainsaw juggling for fun and hosed this up.

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Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

Motronic posted:

I can't even........how embarrassing for them. What the hell kind of neighbors do you have?

I knew I was going to have problems if anything went wrong by how the neighbors walked by and watched. Others just watched, which I get because I'm fascinated watching tree work. The new crew was waving to people watching. Then came the comments, "I hope you did your research, hope they have insurance". "Who are these guys, are they even legit?" "It's so sad to see such a big beautiful tree be removed, we need to be adding trees, not taking them away".

Yeah lady, I'm generally with you, but these aren't old growth sequoia, cedars or firs. They are 70 year old non-native garbage tier farm trees meant for surrounding crops to prevent wind erosion, not meant to be hovering over a house in an urban environment close to utility lines. But also when you look at my house, you won't even notice they're gone when you look at the surrounding canopy which are nearly equal in height (100+ feet) spruce, cedar, and Douglas fir trees. Our house doesn't even get much more sun with then gone. Our canopy is fine. All those trees were doing was starving other trees of nutrients and water.

I also figured that at least one person was going to report the work to the city before anything happened to make sure I had permits to do so. I've seen my local nextdoor, there are so many posts complaining about their neighbors tree removal that the comments usually recommend contacting the city to report your neighbors to ensure they have proper permits for removal regardless if you have any proof or not.

Most of my neighbors that we've met are great but there are some have Karen tendencies. One who complained often touts her cheap illegal immigrant yard worker who does everything from tree work :stare: to landscaping but questions the legitimacy of the very real company I hired to do this massive job. The other guy is a clueless 30 something man-child neck beard type who showed up to a neighborhood "project" to hang a blind spot mirror with tools straight from an 1800s Amish barn raising. A rickety wooden ladder and a manual hand drill. I let him have a go at it and when I saw him struggling I walked back and grabbed my hammer drill, impact driver, a 16' ladder and put it up in a few minutes. He questioned my every decision and had a lot of input but it was clear he had never touched a tool before. That guy complained the most about needing wifi, getting a hotel etc. He even drove up to me and pulled over while I was walking my dog to ask again when the power would return and whine about the inconvenience. I hope our neighborhood never has a real catastrophe because I'll be screwed if I have to rely on anybody.

Verman fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Jul 25, 2023

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