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Pierson posted:What would people consider to be the main technological progression for the RX-78-2? Thinking about building them all in order for fun, probably just either HG or RG if the RG is better. I feel like the Alex should be part of this conversation, given it was supposed to wind up in Amuro's hands and the mag-coating from its joints was applied to the Grandpa Understandable if it's a little too side-story though
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Jul 24, 2023 19:27
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There also isn't really a current HG of the Alex and lol if it'll ever get a real grade.
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Jul 24, 2023 19:44
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Dreqqus posted:Does anyone here have any experience with the 3rd party metal frames? I've got the RG Hi Nu to put together but was interested in maybe getting the metal frame for it. Why? The Hi-Nu’s frame as it is has no issues I’ve noticed.
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Jul 24, 2023 19:49
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Dreqqus posted:Does anyone here have any experience with the 3rd party metal frames? I've got the RG Hi Nu to put together but was interested in maybe getting the metal frame for it. I've messed with them and you have no need to worry about their quality. wdarkk posted:Why? The Hi-Nu’s frame as it is has no issues I’ve noticed. Metal Robot Damashii at home?
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Jul 24, 2023 21:15
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Der-Wreck posted:I built my first Gundam! I never understood the appeal of clear kits until you posted that one under a blacklight. Still not for me, but I definitely get it now. Phy posted:I feel like the Alex should be part of this conversation, given it was supposed to wind up in Amuro's hands and the mag-coating from its joints was applied to the Grandpa I mean, depending how thin you split the hairs, the tech progression gets really fuzzy really fast. About the only thing the Zeta and the RX-78/178 have in common is being called a Gundam. Nu Gundam is closer to the RX-78/178 than the Zeta is, and isn't even all that closely related to the Zeta/ZZ. There's a closer link between the Nu and the Unicorn, for example, in that rather than switching tech from Biocomputers to Psychoframe, the Unicorn basically saw what Nu Gundam did with a little bit of frame and went "great, get as much of that crap as you can we're going to build the entire frame from head to toe from it." What they all have in common are bringing wild technical leaps to the battlefield. The RX-78 had wildly strong armor and weapons for its time, and its combat computer made it easy for the pilot to tune the suit based on past data. The 178 departed from the integrated armor/frame concept, which would be critical to the Zeta being an interface-capable mobile suit (capable of unassisted reentry and flight on Earth). The ZZ took energy output to the logical conclusion and also did that transforming gimmick for reasons. Nu Gundam integrated psycommu technology with the performance specs of a Gundam, as well as utilized psychoframe to improve the interface between the pilot and the psycommu (and also do wacky space magic). And the Unicorn saw what the Nu Gundam did with psychoframe and went, "hey if I cram enough of this stuff in here we could run the whole drat suit on thought alone. It'd suck to be the pilot though lol." Anyway that's a lot of words on why I'm not a fan of suggesting that the original UC suits are a progression any more than an F-104, an F-4, an F-15, and an F-22 are a progression. Someone tell me what my first backlogust kit should be. I'm finishing the Delta Plus first (assembly wise anyway). Options are: RG God Gundam RG Hi-Nu HG Base Jabber HG Gustav Karl HG Alex HG Pale Rider Space Type HG Zaku Ground War HG Zaku C/C-5 HG RGM-79[G] HG Blue Destiny Unit 3 HG Grandpa HG Jesta MG Jegan MG GM Dominance Numerous hangar display bases. Wildcard sends me to the regular Scale Modeling thread to build a Hasegawa F-15E in 1:72 scale. Warmachine fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Jul 24, 2023 |
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Jul 24, 2023 21:26
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Build Karl
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Jul 24, 2023 21:42
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For Karl. *Raises beer stein*
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Jul 24, 2023 23:19
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I want thr Hathaway Karl to exist. It looks cooler
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Jul 24, 2023 23:23
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1st Stage Midboss posted:If you're after technological links, the Narrative is a (tweaked) prototype Nu, and it has a movie named after it to boot, so you could build that before the Nu (or start building it, then come back to finish after the Unicorn). Man, I still really wish for an MG Narrative someday, even if it has to be P-Bandai. No idea if I'd prefer B or C packs though. (Chaos option, A Packs  )
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Jul 24, 2023 23:31
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Warmachine posted:I never understood the appeal of clear kits until you posted that one under a blacklight. Tbf, the older hg kits in clear seem have really hard and brittle plastic. I build the Gundam Base MG rx-78 as well and it was a lot nicer. Thr plastic seemed to be a different composition, who knows maybe the larger scale helps with it. It looks great to boot as well. E: nub discolouration also cleans up a lot easier with a nail polishing pad as well.
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Jul 25, 2023 00:05
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:Man, I still really wish for an MG Narrative someday, even if it has to be P-Bandai. B pack, C pack is just a discount Unicorn.
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Jul 25, 2023 02:14
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wdarkk posted:Why? The Hi-Nu’s frame as it is has no issues I’ve noticed. Honestly because the one I'm looking at comes with metallic gold accents to replace the orangey gold bits of the kit.
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Jul 25, 2023 02:23
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I need advice. I'm about to start building the MGEX Strike Freedom. Before I ruin it... is there anything I need to worry about using tamiya panel liner on? It's got... Gold, Special coating gold, White gold, Copper Gold, and finally the gold colored photoetch parts.
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Jul 25, 2023 03:38
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Nerobro posted:I need advice. Snip out a little piece of the runner with the part number flag on it, hit it with the liner, and see what happens.
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Jul 25, 2023 04:10
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 slapped together a little hexadude over the weekend. he's fine, very tiny. probably not worth the price I paid for him but a fun side project all the same. he came completely unpainted so I had to do some extra work in that regard - I'm particularly chuffed with myself over getting the red details on his helmet
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Jul 25, 2023 19:33
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Buck Wildman posted:probably not worth the price I paid for him but a fun side project all the same. I like this guy and he's on my list of "buy at some point especially when cheap". The helmet details do look nice! You may wanna put some more work into the legs though. I can see several nub marks that could be cleaned with some sanding tools. I can see a few more marks but the legs are the most obvious. Hexagear is actually what brought me back into model kits near the end of last year. Behold the Blaze Boar!  This isn't really a mech and just a suit with a little guy in it. It was the first kit I built after over a decade of absence and now that I know what I'm doing I need to get back to it at some point and clean the various nub marks I left on it. I literally built this with a worn out pair of cable nippers, the file on a pocket knife and a random piece of sandpaper I found in the cellar.  I think he controls it with wi-fi handles which is weird since you could just shoot his fleshy arms but future tech = cool is kinda the theme of Hexa Gear.  There are a couple of cool things like the moving pincer on the shield and the cockpit top with a hinge. The twin-gun can also be split up and attached to the back with little arms like some AA autocannons. There is also an option part for the cockpit top, another antenna, two extra full helmet variants for the pilot with an extra variant piece for the top of the helmet of your choice and several small parts that you need when you want to combine it with some other kits.  You can fully open the suit and have the pilot seperate but that also brings me to the main problem with the kit. It's rather flimsy even with the extra strength when the pilot is in it. I'm cheating in this pic since I'm hiding the shield behind the pilot. Without the shield as a support on the ground it could not stand since it's very back-heavy. Like at least 1/3 of the weight is concentrated in the back and all the joints are small which is not a great design choice.  The legs are the worst. They're hollow to fit the legs of the pilot and are only connected with a tiny peg on a small swivel joint. They constantly fall off if you want to fiddle with the model and I'm almost willing to just glue them in place. I do hold most of the design in high regard but man those legs are a total pain. If they at least had made connections on the inside and the outside...  Anyway that was my Hexa Gear presentation thx for comming. They are smol bois & girls with Metal Gear Solid future tech and I love them. Tin Tim fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Jul 25, 2023 |
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Jul 25, 2023 21:51
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Looking at the God Hands GH SPN-120, anyone know what the deal is with this Amazon link showing a "newer model of this item" for $10 more? Sort of assume they are the same (both say SPN-120 5.0) and the $10 is the extra shipping maybe, since all the reviews on the "newer" one are in Japanese. Just curious if people knew if there were actual changes. Can't wait to immediately break them, whichever one I choose! Second question: people have mentioned not to panel line with Tamiya Panel Line Accent, the oil-based wash, due to parts weakening. Will a layer of acrylic or lacquer varnish first prevent penetration? I know I run the risk of capillary action carrying the enamel or enamel thinner to joints/structural pieces that may be uncoated if I mask them, but I was looking for options aside from the gundam marker route. Maybe I just need practice with the markers...
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Jul 25, 2023 22:06
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uwaeve posted:Second question: people have mentioned not to panel line with Tamiya Panel Line Accent, the oil-based wash, due to parts weakening. Will a layer of acrylic or lacquer varnish first prevent penetration? I know I run the risk of capillary action carrying the enamel or enamel thinner to joints/structural pieces that may be uncoated if I mask them, but I was looking for options aside from the gundam marker route. Maybe I just need practice with the markers... It should. The really dangerous thing is lining assembled parts. I had a Wing Zero Ver. Ka’s forehead crumble to little pieces within minutes after a drop of panel liner wicked its way under the cockatoo crest, where the solvent couldn’t evaporate freely. If you’re looking for a ready mixed option, some Nuln Oil is safe for all parts, and is my go-to for those panel lines that hide the seam between two parts. Really the only thing to watch out for is not trying to clean it up with alcohol when you’ve done an acrylic top coat underneath.
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Jul 25, 2023 22:22
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Tin Tim posted:I like this guy and he's on my list of "buy at some point especially when cheap". The helmet details do look nice! You may wanna put some more work into the legs though. I can see several nub marks that could be cleaned with some sanding tools. I can see a few more marks but the legs are the most obvious. yeah, it was tough to get in some of those smaller areas - you can't really tell in the photo but those legs actually curve inward away from the front. gonna be getting some nicer clippers sometimes soon. anyway, I'm untroubled - it was just a fun little weekend project and I'm saving all my try hard energy for the psycho zaku
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Jul 25, 2023 23:15
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God Hands seem to do limited production runs, and then 'discontinue' the tools until the next one, even for the exact same item. I guess they don't necessarily know when their next factory slot will be and don't want people on an indefinite waiting list. HLJ seems to make a new listing for them every time there's a production run, so those two listings are probably a similar situation. Or, more likely, it's just amazon marketplace shenanigans. Be careful about buying stuff from amazon in this hobby that isn't sold and fulfilled by amazon itself - arguing about serial numbers and the difference between HG and RG is a pain. Check the reputations of the sellers as well, not just the reviews of the item - God Hands in particular were scalped and scammed to hell two years ago. There's a lot of different types of gundam marker and different routes to panel lining. There's four main types of paint - lacquer, enamel, acrylic, and oil, but I've never seen a lacquer based panel lining product before. Subdivisions exist, so there's "solvent" (often called alcohol based) and "aqueous" (water based) acrylics, with the former being more dangerous to bare plastic than the latter. But to keep things relatively simple; (no specific ordering here, beyond stuff up top being more likely to harm bare plastic)
Specifically for plastic in joints that manages to avoid top coats because you've already built the kit or whatever, I'd consider the acrylic miniature wash stuff. If the pigment on flat bits later gets rubbed away by moving the joint (acrylic not being the strongest of paints), it'll look like genuine use of the joint. BIG CAVEAT: Do NOT use enamel washes (tamiya or otherwise), pour type markers, or fine tip (manufacturer specifically warns against it) gundam markers on bare ABS plastic. The thinners react really harshly and crack it with ease. ABS plastic is usually indicated by a tag on the runner or a call-out in the manual; it's fairly uncommon on modern gundam kits, but older ones had inner frames of it, and kotobukiya used to make models entirely out of ABS (though they've moved on a bit; the recent Muv Luv series is PS like gundams) Finally, a bit of a plug of something I learned earlier in the thread - when tidying up panel lines using the right type of cotton bud can save immense pain and having to reapply lines over and over. A loosely spun one from the supermarket will pull stuff out of lines, whilst a tight one will only take stuff off the surface, leaving the line itself intact. In my case the only option for tight spun buds is Tamiya, which is expensive but worth it. In the States and Canada, I've heard people say gun cleaning swabs tend to be tightly spun, but I can't confirm.
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Jul 25, 2023 23:28
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uwaeve posted:Looking at the God Hands GH SPN-120, anyone know what the deal is with this Amazon link showing a "newer model of this item" for $10 more? Sort of assume they are the same (both say SPN-120 5.0) and the $10 is the extra shipping maybe, since all the reviews on the "newer" one are in Japanese. Just curious if people knew if there were actual changes. Can't wait to immediately break them, whichever one I choose! As far as I can tell. The high end single blade god hand cutters have a working lifetime, with the end being a snapped blade. And that ~suuuuuucks~. I don't know what nippers you're using now. But it's a good bet that the Stedi MS-100's are gonna absoltuely change your world. But, assuming you have something nice. Here's a $25 single blade cutter, that is ~very good~: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BF4JKZDK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 They're $25, the Stedi MS-106. I also tried these last weekend, and they're very, very, slightly better. The Mister Hobby MT106: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FCDS8ZX/ They're also $25. If you're absolutely not going to break out glass files or other things on your kits... maybe the $50 for godhand 120s. But... they require special treatment that none of these will. Tamiya panel liner works fine on modern kits. It's best to do before you assemble the kit so it doesn't suck into joints.
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Jul 25, 2023 23:35
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Nullkigan posted:Sakura Micron Pigma pens (I tend to go for the 003 size) are finer than Fine Tip gundam markers and pretty safe, but realistically you only get black, which may be harsh on white. Red and sepia ones exist, but I've never bought one. Not sure about how they react with different types of plastic. These are my go to and I've never had a problem with them. They're also available in several other colors like green, blue, and red.
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Jul 26, 2023 03:19
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I didn't realize they went to down to 003. I've only ever been able to find the 005 tips at my art store.
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Jul 26, 2023 03:24
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Midjack posted:These are my go to and I've never had a problem with them. They're also available in several other colors like green, blue, and red. Amazon link https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/0D423ACF-8AE0-4E88-BC49-21B2C1F7581C
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Jul 26, 2023 03:50
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Buck Wildman posted:yeah, it was tough to get in some of those smaller areas - you can't really tell in the photo but those legs actually curve inward away from the front. gonna be getting some nicer clippers sometimes soon. anyway, I'm untroubled - it was just a fun little weekend project and I'm saving all my try hard energy for the psycho zaku  If you find yourself wanting to clean up curved surfaces in the future then I can recommend sanding sponges since they are flexible and can be cut into small shapes if needed. I use a different brand but something like this will set you up.
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Jul 26, 2023 10:14
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Finished my RG MK2 today. It's definitely a better kit than the MG version but man I am tired of 1/144 stuff. My next kit is the MG Aerial so I'm definitely looking forward to getting back to working in a larger size after like five consecutive HGs/RGs.  
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Jul 26, 2023 20:48
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Mmmmm love me a good before and after gunpla pic
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Jul 26, 2023 20:49
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Pierson posted:My next kit is the MG Aerial You're gonna be waiting a long time then before you build another kit. 
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Jul 26, 2023 21:19
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Full Mechanics I meant. Need to ignore all my shop links for a few months and get busy building: KOG is definitely going to be last or near-last while I learn to paint good metallics.
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Jul 26, 2023 22:34
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Just realized i can make a nice family unit with these so I went and picked up the demi-trainer since I already have a few egg boys.  
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Jul 27, 2023 04:55
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Synthbuttrange posted:Just realized i can make a nice family unit with these so I went and picked up the demi-trainer since I already have a few egg boys. Please update us with the family photos
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Jul 27, 2023 06:04
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aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaashajvfakjshvfslhvflkbasklubkvbs;vlb I got this gunpla custom kit(but the red version) years back and it sat taking up a bunch of space because it comes with a shitload of extra sprues for the many, many extra chainguns and missile pods. so I started building it because I both want it built and to free up that space. and things were going good, until I went to attach the right arm, and the shoulder joint snapped right off at the peg connection. ffuuuuuuuuuuckkkkk. I know I can fix it with a pin vice but MAN it sucks that the peg is so small and fragile for such an important joint.
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Jul 28, 2023 22:38
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Finished this guy over the course of a week:
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Jul 29, 2023 18:07
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Gundam fight on my bookcase:   Anyone else have gunpla action scenes going on on their furniture?
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Jul 29, 2023 18:27
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Qylvaran posted:Gundam fight on my bookcase: That's some good posing  . Kinda think maybe the Aerial's shield should be raised a little more and closer to it to fend off the Strike's sword maybe? But otherwise it looks really good and mid-motion.
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Jul 29, 2023 18:45
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https://twitter.com/yurikanakanaka/status/1685338937462530048?s=46&t=K6CRMiA33aFQep_ZPx64DQ
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Jul 29, 2023 19:05
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 The legs on the Dilanza are so chunky it's hard to make it look dynamic.
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Jul 29, 2023 19:13
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https://twitter.com/SayaDoesStuff/status/1685461421776359424 Want.
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Jul 30, 2023 02:35
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I can finally own a Striker Eureka... 
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Jul 30, 2023 02:45
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A review of the Caliburn from WfM. tl;dw It's a really nice HG, super poseable. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rzh-S75IOg Come for the review, stay for Backpack Fashion Show.
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Jul 30, 2023 08:40
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