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Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Nodoze posted:

Can I get some recommendations for running lines throughout the house? We bought a house and are moving in a couple weeks, Frontier has 5gb fiber available there so you can see where I'm going with this. I'd like to run a drop to most of the rooms for hardwired connections, and then a couple extra for PoE cameras in a few spots. For the network lines what should I be looking at for cabling? It seems like Cat 6a will be fine for 10GBe provided the runs are short enough, which I guess is TBD right now since I don't know where I'm going to put things yet. Should I just be looking at fiber lines instead?
Cat6a will do 10gbe fine, but 10gbe copper switches are more expensive than you might like (though the price is coming down, and fast).

Where there's room to pull both, I would do cat6a and fibre, at least between where the router is, and your office and other places you might want to put something that wants high bandwidth. 10gbe SFP+ network cards are cheap as chips, 10gbe copper (RJ45) cards not so much, and they use a lot more power.

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M_Gargantua
Oct 16, 2006

STOMP'N ON INTO THE POWERLINES

Exciting Lemon
Use copper for 1Gbe or 2.5, and pull fiber anywhere you want 10Gbe. The fiber + SFP transceivers will end up being cheaper than trying to get 10 over copper.

Also usage wise there is very little at the consumer level that will ever benefit from 10. Like NAS to HTPC, or NAS to your office desktop. Most "high bandwidth" things are video related, and even 4k barely dents a Gbe link.

M_Gargantua fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Jul 26, 2023

Nodoze
Aug 17, 2006

If it's only for a night I can live without you

Wibla posted:

Cat6a will do 10gbe fine, but 10gbe copper switches are more expensive than you might like (though the price is coming down, and fast).

Where there's room to pull both, I would do cat6a and fibre, at least between where the router is, and your office and other places you might want to put something that wants high bandwidth. 10gbe SFP+ network cards are cheap as chips, 10gbe copper (RJ45) cards not so much, and they use a lot more power.


M_Gargantua posted:

Use copper for 1Gbe or 2.5, and pull fiber anywhere you want 10Gbe. The fiber + SFP transceivers will end up being cheaper than trying to get 10 over copper.

Also usage wise there is very little at the consumer level that will ever benefit from 10. Like NAS to HTPC, or NAS to your office desktop. Most "high bandwidth" things are video related, and even 4k barely dents a Gbe link.

Thanks. I did notice that the 10gbe switches cost more than ones with 1gbe rj45 and SFP+ ports which is why I circled back to looking at fiber lines again. For fiber lines, just go with OM4?

Eletriarnation
Apr 6, 2005

People don't appreciate the substance of things...
objects in space.


Oven Wrangler

skipdogg posted:

I've got an older laptop with the intel 7260 wifi adapter in it I take when I travel. The beach condo we rented a couple weeks ago had eero routers installed the adapter wouldn't even see the wifi network. It also wouldn't see the hotspot on my iphone14 either. I had to tether my iphone to the laptop via lightning cable and find a reddit post with a link to an updated driver set that would work. After slowly downloading the new drivers over 1 bar of LTE, the drat intel card was able to see the eero network. Reddit advises to get an AX series wifi adapter off ebay for :10bux:

Not sure what would break 2.4GHz but if they were running 160MHz wide channels on 5GHz then it would make sense that an 802.11ac Wave 1 adapter couldn't see them. An AX200 or AX210 card shouldn't have that problem but if you're replacing a mini-PCIe card then make sure you get a model of that form factor (e.g. AX210HMW) instead of M.2 (...NGW).

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Nodoze posted:

Thanks. I did notice that the 10gbe switches cost more than ones with 1gbe rj45 and SFP+ ports which is why I circled back to looking at fiber lines again. For fiber lines, just go with OM4?

Nothing wrong* with OM4. I'd probably get multifiber 4xOM4 with LC connectors and the appropriate keystone wallplates with adapters. 2x rj45 + 2x LC duplex is a good mix.

*My company bans all usage of multimode on the OT side of the network, we've had contractors pull multi mode fibre between metro stations and it led to some seriously interesting intermittent failure modes on our signalling system.
I generally recommend single mode for all use as a result, but OM4 is fine, and higher speed (>=25gbit) multimode optics are definitely cheaper. With 40gbe gear getting cheap on the second hand market, that's something worth considering.

Head Bee Guy
Jun 12, 2011

Retarded for Busting
Grimey Drawer
Looks like I can pick up a TP link Ax1800 and a compatible Onemesh extended for $80 all told. My gf has an annoyingly long apartment, so her room is like 80 feet away from her current wireless access point. Would this set-up be better or worse than a 2-pack Deco S4 setup?

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


I went ahead with my network upgrade to Omada gear last weekend. Went pretty smoothly, aside from needing to join 50ish IoT bulbs and plugs to a new network. I'm having a really weird issue with my main desktop PC now though.

For some reason, whenever I wake it from sleep or power it up, it will not resolve DNS. I can ping any local device, but the internet is completely unreachable. First time I thought it was an issue with my PiHole, so I switched DNS to my ISP's and it worked initially, but broke again next time it woke up. So at that point I switched from DHCP to static IP and DNS, which again worked initially until next power cycle. I've tried disabling/re-enabling the adapter, updating drivers, different DNS servers, pretty much everything I can think of at this point. As far as I can figure, nothing I'm changing is fixing things it's just taking 5-10 minutes to resolve normally.

I did see one tip online to disable power management on the adapter, so I tried that this morning and will see if it holds when I get back home this afternoon. Anyone have other ideas if that doesn't do it?

e: I should mention, other wired devices are not having this issue and I never ran into it before changing out routers.

Enos Cabell fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Jul 28, 2023

Cyks
Mar 17, 2008

The trenches of IT can scar a muppet for life
Are you able to ping a DNS server like 8.8.8.8 and just not able to resolve names?

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Cyks posted:

Are you able to ping a DNS server like 8.8.8.8 and just not able to resolve names?

Nope, unable to ping anything outside the local network. Tried 1.1.1.1, 8.8.8.8 and 9.9.9.9 as well.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Possibly an ARP issue? Did you ever change the MAC address to the MAC of an IOT device to register them on a network for example? The random on/off behavior with static addressing reminds me of an issue like that I had once.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Salt Fish posted:

Possibly an ARP issue? Did you ever change the MAC address to the MAC of an IOT device to register them on a network for example? The random on/off behavior with static addressing reminds me of an issue like that I had once.

The only real difference as far as this PC should be concerned is that it's on a different subnet now than it used to be. Strangely enough it seems that power management setting might have mostly fixed it. It still lags about 10 seconds from waking up to being able to ping outside the network, but previously it seemed to be 3-5 minutes.

e: well scratch that, this morning external internet connection was dead again, no amount of waiting brought it back. Disabled and re-enabled the network adapter and 30 sec later it started working again. One variable that I completely forgot about is that I did upgrade the bios on my motherboard roughly at the same time I did the network upgrade. I suppose it's possible that is screwing things up somehow too.

Enos Cabell fucked around with this message at 14:16 on Jul 29, 2023

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Is the recommendation TP-LINK Archer C9 (AC1900) in the OP still current? The amazon listings are weird and its marked EOL here: https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/wifi-router/archer-c9/. The wifi+ethernet combo with flashable firimware is what I'm looking for. Does it matter if its EOL if I'm going to replace all the software anyway?

M_Gargantua
Oct 16, 2006

STOMP'N ON INTO THE POWERLINES

Exciting Lemon
The Home Networking Megathread - Yes the OP is out of date

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Oh my god lol... okay I figured it out! Everything's good here. I finally have all the gear I need to solve my xfinity problem. This thread is excellent by the way.

Triikan
Feb 23, 2007
Most Loved
Does anybody else just keep adding routers in front of their old routers?

Trying to get away from the habit, but my wife is addicted to IoT and generally freaks out when her she tries to use a phone that hasn't been turned on in five years, and :effort: moving stuff over to new routers, but I just took inventory, and I have a total of 6 routers crapping up the spectrum. This is shameful, obviously. The one handling the most devices is actually the oldest, a Linksys E4200. I think I'm going to use a Motorola mesh network that I got on sale for most of the non-performance stuff, and then a couple newish performance routers as access points for our laptops. Sticking with my EdgerouterX for actual routing; its been solid for several years, even though I think its holding back my internet a bit.

Pablo Bluth
Sep 7, 2007

I've made a huge mistake.
Just use the same SSID and password when you switch router?

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Triikan posted:

Does anybody else just keep adding routers in front of their old routers?

Trying to get away from the habit, but my wife is addicted to IoT and generally freaks out when her she tries to use a phone that hasn't been turned on in five years, and :effort: moving stuff over to new routers, but I just took inventory, and I have a total of 6 routers crapping up the spectrum. This is shameful, obviously. The one handling the most devices is actually the oldest, a Linksys E4200. I think I'm going to use a Motorola mesh network that I got on sale for most of the non-performance stuff, and then a couple newish performance routers as access points for our laptops. Sticking with my EdgerouterX for actual routing; its been solid for several years, even though I think its holding back my internet a bit.

Just reuse the SSID and password? Running 6 routers is pure madness, you need to clean that poo poo up.

Triikan
Feb 23, 2007
Most Loved

Pablo Bluth posted:

Just use the same SSID and password when you switch router?

Yeah, but then I have to not use new funny names when I set a new router up.

Triikan
Feb 23, 2007
Most Loved

Wibla posted:

Just reuse the SSID and password? Running 6 routers is pure madness, you need to clean that poo poo up.

I am happy to report that I have removed both N routers, so we are down to four. I may shut down one more, but the four remaining are pretty spread out.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
That's what multiple APs are for. I run unifi and have 4 APs around.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Any particular guidance or best practices for setting up VLANs with managed vs unmanaged switches?

Basically i have one managed switch, one unmanaged, two APs and I want a VLAN for some smarthome / guest stuff to keep them all separated and am just reading up on all this to learn / plan.

I have a router/firewall running OPNsense at the top of it all.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

That Works posted:

Any particular guidance or best practices for setting up VLANs with managed vs unmanaged switches?

Basically i have one managed switch, one unmanaged, two APs and I want a VLAN for some smarthome / guest stuff to keep them all separated and am just reading up on all this to learn / plan.

I have a router/firewall running OPNsense at the top of it all.
Short answer: Unmanaged switches do not support VLANs, so whatever the native/untagged VLAN is on the port it's attached to is what you get.

Long answer: What an unmanaged switch does with tagged frames varies. A lot of dumber switches will just pass it through and as long as the connected devices are configured appropriately it'll still generally work. Occasionally you might find an older switch that doesn't support jumbo frames and will have a problem with the extra four bytes for the VLAN header, but I haven't seen that happen since gigabit became standard. At the opposite end, a higher end unmanaged switch might actually have basic VLAN support in the chip but loading a fixed config from ROM rather than having a controller of some variety attached to offer a management interface. In that case it might actually drop all tagged traffic and only pass untagged, or it might pass everything, or anywhere in between.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


wolrah posted:

Short answer: Unmanaged switches do not support VLANs, so whatever the native/untagged VLAN is on the port it's attached to is what you get.

Long answer: What an unmanaged switch does with tagged frames varies. A lot of dumber switches will just pass it through and as long as the connected devices are configured appropriately it'll still generally work. Occasionally you might find an older switch that doesn't support jumbo frames and will have a problem with the extra four bytes for the VLAN header, but I haven't seen that happen since gigabit became standard. At the opposite end, a higher end unmanaged switch might actually have basic VLAN support in the chip but loading a fixed config from ROM rather than having a controller of some variety attached to offer a management interface. In that case it might actually drop all tagged traffic and only pass untagged, or it might pass everything, or anywhere in between.

Thanks much appreciated. Its a pretty new TP link 1gb switch so hopefully ok but now i have something to dig into

Triikan
Feb 23, 2007
Most Loved
What's a good go to for a rack mounted router that can handle 2 gigabit internet? I'm not invested into any ecosystems.

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud
Do wifi routers lose signal strength over time? It feels like the wifi router that came with my AT&T internet 4 years ago is starting to get weaker. My Ring doorbell is losing signal, my TV is losing signal, my computer loses signal briefly. These are all one or two rooms away from the router.

What is a good wifi router I can plug into my AT&T router to replace the wifi?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Wifi doesn't really lose strength but it's not uncommon for the power transformers to get weak and fail after some years which can cause crashes/failures. It's not an uncommon thing and I'd consider replacing it (get one that's the same voltage with the same barrel jack and the same or more current) as a troubleshooting step if you think yours was okay but now it's not. That said, this thread is all for wireless access points wherever you need them over some router's baked in wifi. I turned off the wifi on the fios router I have and have two ubiquiti access points in the house and they've been super solid for years.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.

Triikan posted:

What's a good go to for a rack mounted router that can handle 2 gigabit internet? I'm not invested into any ecosystems.
Fiber or copper connection in? I'd throw pfsense on one of the little N100 boxes, unless you're encrypting VPN traffic you'll do fine.

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.
I wonder if the wifi might just be in a noisier environment now. More IoT gizmos, neighbour wifi etc.. Perhaps trying a different channel(s) would help?

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
Trying to figure out WTF is wrong with my Moca setup. I currently have:

UDMP -> Moca Bridge -> Coax Splitter -> 2x Moca Bridges -> 2 APs

Up until today, the coax splitter was connected to 1 Moca Bridge -> 1 AP.

No matter what I do, the new Moca Bridge I got doesn't work. Previously, I had 1 Gocoax bridge and 1 actiontec bridge. I bought another Gocoax bridge and no matter what I do, I can't get the Moca light to light up when it's connected to the splitter. Directly connecting it to another moca bridge works. I replaced the Coax splitter with another one and i'm running in to the identical issue: the old moca bridge/setup works, but no matter what I do, the new one doesn't.

Do I have to reset my moca network somehow?

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...
So I got a new computer on Friday, and one of the things I wanted to do was try and get a wired internet connection set up with it, rather than use WiFi. However, I'm not sure how to go about executing it.

What I figured I'd need to do is run an ethernet cable (Cat6A) from the computer either under or outside the house in order to reach the modem/router.

I did a very crude MSPaint diagram of the layout.



The primary one (the light green line) would be if I drilled a hole through the wall and ran it outside, along the side of the house, and back in through the living room.

The secondary one (the dark blue line) would be if I got under the house and ran it up somewhere there.

Both wiring plans have issues. With the first one, I'd have to place the hole/outlet kind farther up the wall than you might normally since it's on the basement level. I don't think it would have to go way to the ceiling, but it might be somewhere midway up the wall. With the second one, I'd have to, well get under the house, which is not an appealing notion on its own, but I'd also have to figure out where specifically to drill, so that might make it even more of a chore.

One thing I was told about a couple of years ago was to try a powerline ethernet adapter, where you just plug it into an outlet, and you can get a wired connection that way. The caveat is that it has to be on the same circuit as the modem. At the time, I don't think that was the case, but since we've moved it to the center of the house, it's possible they are on the same circuit. However, I don't know if the powerline adapter is the ideal way to set up a connection.

Someone in the PC Building thread also pointed out that there's also MoCA (Media over Coax). However, I'm not entirely sure if that would work. If you look at the diagram, you can see that the modem/router is connected to the coax upstairs, but I have to think that only works one way; the cable goes into the router to put out a signal, but it doesn't make it so that you can get internet from other coax outlets. The adapters for are also a lot more expensive (although I guess they're about the same as the high-speed ethernet adapters).

The one other idea was to move to the modem/router to the other coax cable and just run a cable from there. That I think I might experiment with next weekend, but the problem with that is that I think it's going to make it so the signal in the living room is a lot weaker, so anyone watching TV there might have connection issues, since it'll be on the far end of the house, rather than in the center.

As noted in the image, the modem/router is the Netgear CM1100. In addition, we also have a mesh system (the Netgear Nighthawk Mesh WiFi6). One of the satellites is on the bookcase opposite the computer. I don't know if it would be prudent to upgrade to a better modem/router.

RoboBoogie
Sep 18, 2008

Residency Evil posted:

Trying to figure out WTF is wrong with my Moca setup. I currently have:

UDMP -> Moca Bridge -> Coax Splitter -> 2x Moca Bridges -> 2 APs

Up until today, the coax splitter was connected to 1 Moca Bridge -> 1 AP.

No matter what I do, the new Moca Bridge I got doesn't work. Previously, I had 1 Gocoax bridge and 1 actiontec bridge. I bought another Gocoax bridge and no matter what I do, I can't get the Moca light to light up when it's connected to the splitter. Directly connecting it to another moca bridge works. I replaced the Coax splitter with another one and i'm running in to the identical issue: the old moca bridge/setup works, but no matter what I do, the new one doesn't.

Do I have to reset my moca network somehow?



With the splitter are your old adapters working still or did they stop working? if they stopped working then its the adapters. they ahve to support some specific frequency

If they are still working, jsut not on the new device, then you may need to copy the encryption key, the go coax is accessible on 192.168.254.254 and you can set up the key there. You can also press the button but im not sure how that works.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

RoboBoogie posted:

With the splitter are your old adapters working still or did they stop working? if they stopped working then its the adapters. they ahve to support some specific frequency

If they are still working, jsut not on the new device, then you may need to copy the encryption key, the go coax is accessible on 192.168.254.254 and you can set up the key there. You can also press the button but im not sure how that works.

Yes, my old adapters are working with the splitter, both the old splitter as well as the new one. Both splitters support frequencies up to 2.5 Ghz.

I had no idea about the encryption: I'll try to see if I can copy the keys.

Nodoze
Aug 17, 2006

If it's only for a night I can live without you

Wibla posted:

Nothing wrong* with OM4. I'd probably get multifiber 4xOM4 with LC connectors and the appropriate keystone wallplates with adapters. 2x rj45 + 2x LC duplex is a good mix.

*My company bans all usage of multimode on the OT side of the network, we've had contractors pull multi mode fibre between metro stations and it led to some seriously interesting intermittent failure modes on our signalling system.
I generally recommend single mode for all use as a result, but OM4 is fine, and higher speed (>=25gbit) multimode optics are definitely cheaper. With 40gbe gear getting cheap on the second hand market, that's something worth considering.

Circling back to this, SFP+ can only transmit at 10gbps, not 2.5 and/or 5 correct? This would mean that at some point I'd need a SFP+ to RJ45 transceiver which is less than ideal due to how hot they get.

This makes finding a proper router/switch sort of annoying unless I am missing something

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
My understanding is they tend to default to 10gbs only mode, but most can be configured down.

Head Bee Guy
Jun 12, 2011

Retarded for Busting
Grimey Drawer

Head Bee Guy posted:

Looks like I can pick up a TP link Ax1800 and a compatible Onemesh extended for $80 all told. My gf has an annoyingly long apartment, so her room is like 80 feet away from her current wireless access point. Would this set-up be better or worse than a 2-pack Deco S4 setup?


bumping this one last time before i bite the bullet and inevitably make the wrong move

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Head Bee Guy posted:

bumping this one last time before i bite the bullet and inevitably make the wrong move

I'm not sure anyone's going to have experience with those two particular models. Either way you're sort of buying into a TP link system of one kind or another. I'd probably go with the first option myself since it's cheaper and you could possibly replace either one piece of the setup later if your needs change and still use the other piece. With the mesh system all you can do is buy more transceivers/pods/whatever they call them.

Cyks
Mar 17, 2008

The trenches of IT can scar a muppet for life

Head Bee Guy posted:

bumping this one last time before i bite the bullet and inevitably make the wrong move

My default recommendation is still the Orbi rbk50 but it’s starting to get discontinued. $ 140 at Best Buy as of today.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgear-orbi-ac3000-tri-band-mesh-wi-fi-system-2-pack-white/5577333.p?skuId=5577333

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Nodoze posted:

Circling back to this, SFP+ can only transmit at 10gbps, not 2.5 and/or 5 correct? This would mean that at some point I'd need a SFP+ to RJ45 transceiver which is less than ideal due to how hot they get.

This makes finding a proper router/switch sort of annoying unless I am missing something

SFP+ transceivers are usually 1/10 or 10, don't think I've seen 2.5 or 5. I'd get a cheap SFP+ switch and a PoE switch with SFP+ uplinks and use a 10G DAC cable between those switches.

Nodoze
Aug 17, 2006

If it's only for a night I can live without you

Wibla posted:

SFP+ transceivers are usually 1/10 or 10, don't think I've seen 2.5 or 5. I'd get a cheap SFP+ switch and a PoE switch with SFP+ uplinks and use a 10G DAC cable between those switches.

The issue lies in the internet connection being 5g, so either I run all cat6a or end up with some transceivers somewhere. All the multi-gig capable switches I've come across are wildly expensive or dumb and like 5 ports

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Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Check what interface they actually give you, if it's a 10g optical link or if they deliver a media converter with multi-gig copper.

You'll need a router regardless.

I wouldn't bother with >1gbit for most of the clients, I'd reserve that for a NAS and a workstation. At least until prices come down.

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