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Before i order, i changed out my motherboard to a MSI B760 Gaming Plus WIFI (for a i5 13600k and 4070 OC). It's not missing anything important right?
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 05:48 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 21:33 |
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neurotech posted:I posted something like this about a year ago and never ended up buying anything. This time I actually need to buy something, so I'm gonna re-post: Quoting this to request some additional help. I really have no idea on what I should get in terms of the components for a system that meets these requirements, monitor included. I basically want someone to tell me "get this/this/that".
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 08:33 |
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Having issues with no display after doing a platform upgrade. Existing components are GPU (3070), PSU(SFF Coolermaster 850W), case. Everything else is new: 7800X3D 32GB Corsair DDR5 6000 x2 Samsung NVME M.2 SSDs MSI MPG B650-I WI-FI I assembled the entire PC, then put a flash drive in the back with the BIOS file, did a BIOS update with the machine off, waited for the red flashing light to finish. I was left with a no display and a green error light which means that a boot device was missing (I figured it would at least let me go to the BIOS, but I guess not so I loaded windows onto a flash drive and stuck it in. Windows does like a 2-3 part install which requires some reboots, but this time I can’t get any video out and I’m left wondering if I knocked something out while moving the computer. No error lights on the motherboard. PCIE riser is tucked in nicely, all the power slots in the motherboard were where they should be…but I have no idea what I’m missing here because I was able to see the display. I’m kinda stumped but also really tired.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 09:10 |
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That cpu has an igpu, try one of the motherboard display outputs.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 09:14 |
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buglord posted:Having issues with no display after doing a platform upgrade. I'm a little confused here. Are you saying that you saw a display out at first, but then it stopped displaying anything once you tried to install windows? How long are you waiting for the computer to boot before turning it back off/resetting it? With DDR5 platforms, sometimes you have to wait a minute or two for the first boot to happen. Also double check every single cable connection, make sure it is all fully clipped in and properly seated.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 09:15 |
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Oh right, this is first boot? Leave it alone for at least 5 minutes. RAM training takes forever
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 09:18 |
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neurotech posted:Quoting this to request some additional help. I really have no idea on what I should get in terms of the components for a system that meets these requirements, monitor included. I basically want someone to tell me "get this/this/that". 1440p is the sweet spot right now in terms of both monitor pricing and gaming performance. So getting something that's capable of performing really well at 1440p should be the priority in my opinion. Looking at the Techfast link, and those MSI PCs seem like bafflingly good deals. A Ryzen 7500F (a reasonable 6-core Zen 4 CPU) and RTX 4080 for 2400 AUD ($1600 USD)? What's the catch? That card costs ~$1100 alone usually. Or even less with the 5700X. The CPUs aren't amazing, but they're fine. And the 16GB of RAM is low, but that's presumably upgradeable (some OEMs can be weird about having locked down BIOSes though—not sure if MSI does that). I would honestly consider that 7500F + 4080 PC with a 27" 1440p monitor like this one, but the 4080 is a little overkill for 16:9 1440p and getting a 4K monitor would blow the budget. The 4070 Ti machine also has great discount and would probably be better suited to 1440p too (less overkill) and would save you a bunch of money, so maybe that's the way to go instead. edit: That 5700X + 4070 Ti +16GB DDR4 + 1TB storage + 750W PSU PC costs $1200 USD. Seriously, what the hell is the catch? Because that's insane. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 10:57 on Aug 2, 2023 |
# ? Aug 2, 2023 09:42 |
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So I think I figured out the cause, since using the integrated graphics worked but the gpu didnt. My computer has a PCIE 3.0 riser cable. My BIOS has “PCI_E1 Gen Switch” set as Auto. When I switch it to Gen 3, the gpu actually works. This should leave everything else intact right? buglord fucked around with this message at 10:42 on Aug 2, 2023 |
# ? Aug 2, 2023 10:33 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:I mean, there is a measurable difference. The 970 Evo Plus has both a larger SLC cache (the 570's is only like 12GB per TB) and much faster TLC flash than the SN570. So despite both having the same read and write speeds on paper, the 970 Evo Plus will handle very large writes much more quickly. Which means if you're copying large files to the drive at once (with no pauses/idle time), the 970 Evo Plus will do that quite a bit faster. But in all other circumstances, the drives will be basically the same. Don't spend extra on the 970 Evo Plus if you don't expect to be doing that often. Alright, thanks! I don't think I need the performance, but at the same price point, why not ?
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 10:37 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:1440p is the sweet spot right now in terms of both monitor pricing and gaming performance. So getting something that's capable of performing really well at 1440p should be the priority in my opinion. Looking at the Techfast link, and those MSI PCs seem like bafflingly good deals. A Ryzen 7500F (a reasonable 6-core Zen 5 CPU) and RTX 4080 for 2400 AUD ($1600 USD)? What's the catch? That card costs ~$1100 alone usually. Or even less with the 5700X. The CPUs aren't amazing, but they're fine. And the 16GB of RAM is low, but that's presumably upgradeable (some OEMs can be weird about having locked down BIOSes though—not sure if MSI does that). I would honestly consider that 7500F + 4080 PC with a 27" 1440p monitor like this one, but the 4080 is a little overkill for 16:9 1440p and getting a 4K monitor would blow the budget. The 4070 Ti machine also has great discount and would probably be better suited to 1440p too (less overkill) and would save you a bunch of money, so maybe that's the way to go instead. Thank you! I have no idea why the prices are that good. I hope there isn't a catch 😬
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 10:50 |
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buglord posted:So I think I figured out the cause, since using the integrated graphics worked but the gpu didnt. Ah, yeah, that will do it. That's a common issue when using riser cables. The rest of those options should stay as they are. Also make sure EXPO is enabled for your memory.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 10:56 |
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neurotech posted:I posted something like this about a year ago and never ended up buying anything. This time I actually need to buy something, so I'm gonna re-post: Okay, I'm 90% leaning towards this system (with a extra 1TB SSD) in combination with this monitor. The system vendor (BPC Tech) offers a Windows 11 Pro licence upgrade for $229 AUD which seems a bit high. Is there somewhere I can get a Windows 11 Pro key cheaper? neurotech fucked around with this message at 11:24 on Aug 2, 2023 |
# ? Aug 2, 2023 11:20 |
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neurotech posted:Okay, I'm 90% leaning towards this system (with a extra 1TB SSD) in combination with this monitor. You can get a copy of 11 Pro for about $30 AUD from Lodge North in SA Mart. Toast King fucked around with this message at 12:52 on Aug 2, 2023 |
# ? Aug 2, 2023 12:50 |
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Toast King posted:You can get a copy of 11 Pro for about $30 AUD from Lodge North in SA Mart. Beauty, thank you!
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 13:26 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Ah, yeah, that will do it. That's a common issue when using riser cables. The rest of those options should stay as they are. Also make sure EXPO is enabled for your memory. Yeah I definitely enabled that. Since I’m heat constrained too, what’s the MSI equivalent bios setting that keeps all these CPU cores running at 4.20ghz? I remember ASUS had some “enhancement” feature that did that so the cores would stay constantly pegged for reasons I can’t fathom.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 17:15 |
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quote:PCPartPicker Part List I'm going to order this today unless someone spots any red flags, mainly with the CPU/cooler/motherboard combination. I'm fairly set on the GPU, storage, case, and PSU. I wasn't sure about DDR4 vs DDR5 for this setup, but the build guide I read said DDR4 is fine/preferred for this CPU?
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 18:16 |
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K8.0 posted:I just picked up the 7700X + 32gb - Pro B650-P Wifi bundle from Microcenter. You know, the $400 one. I ran to my MicroCenter this morning and it was the regular $399 price. Sounds like you got lucky!
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 18:46 |
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WhiteHowler posted:I wasn't sure about DDR4 vs DDR5 for this setup, but the build guide I read said DDR4 is fine/preferred for this CPU? This is the red flag. Seems weird honestly to be building a high end new system with ddr4 these days.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 18:55 |
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Butterfly Valley posted:This is the red flag. Seems weird honestly to be building a high end new system with ddr4 these days. Fair enough, how about this? Changed out the motherboard for a DDR5 compatible one, and some DDR5 RAM. quote:PCPartPicker Part List Edit: Ordered! Everything will be here by tomorrow, except the case, which looks like it's being shipped directly from China. So I'll have the guts of a PC but nothing to put it in! WhiteHowler fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Aug 4, 2023 |
# ? Aug 2, 2023 19:55 |
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Box wine posted:It might sound stupid but since you mentioned you turned your wifi off was it turned back on when you ran COMMAND 2: DISM /Online /Cleanup-image /RestoreHealth? You are asking to restore stuff from windows update there and you would get the type of error you received if your wifi/internet was disconnected. Also, most are people are going to tell you to deal with origin for this as they get paid to do so. I think you got a bum vid card unfortunately for what it's worth. Yeah, I think that might have been the issue, because when I went to search the error code, Firefox told me "You're not connected to the internet." I sent Origin an email earlier today about sending the computer back, but I haven't gotten a response back. However, I've figured out something that triggers the issue, which I think might point towards the issue. I started up the computer like thirty minutes ago, and I realized that I didn't have the headphones plugged in, so I got down on the floor to plug them in, only for the computer to start acting up like it has been. What's weird is that yesterday, I had the same thing happen: I was going to plug in the headphones because I thought it was fixed, but then it started having its issue. So I restarted the computer, and while it was just on the login screen, I slammed my fist down on the floor right next to computer. Soon as I did, the screens went blank, and the fan started going into high gear. Restarted it, hit the floor again, same thing happened. That to me suggests that the issue is that there's something wrong with the connections where the slight jostle it gets from the floor being struck makes the GPU start malfunctioning. Now I took the GPU out yesterday so I could remove the battery to reset the CMOS, so if it had been jarred loose during shipping, I would think that doing that process would have secured it (unless I just did a lovely job of inserting the card). So my theory is that either the card and/or it's connectors are borked, or there's something with GPU slot on the motherboard is borked, because it seems like the minor shake is what triggers the issue. For reference, the computer is not shaking heavily, it's just minor shake, like you bumped it slightly. It's sitting on a laminate floor that's on the basement level, so there's only a minor shift that happens. I'm not going to burden the thread with trying to get this problem fixed, and leave it up to Origin, but I do want to ask if what I found is maybe a flaw with the build (as in, maybe the case they put it in isn't weighty or sturdy enough, so the issue might repeat itself.)
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 02:25 |
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Max Wilco posted:I'm not going to burden the thread with trying to get this problem fixed, and leave it up to Origin, but I do want to ask if what I found is maybe a flaw with the build (as in, maybe the case they put it in isn't weighty or sturdy enough, so the issue might repeat itself.) If you can, re-seat the various cables coming from the PSU. My partner's PC had similar issues and it turned out I hosed up when I built it and the EPS12V cable was loose. Embarrassing error on my part but easy to fix.
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 02:36 |
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One of the power cables isn't fully seated. Check the connections on the motherboard.
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 02:37 |
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Max Wilco posted:New info Just echoing what those above said it's most likely a power cable not connected well. Reseat the cables.
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 02:50 |
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Yeah don’t just jiggle em either fully remove them and plug them back in
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 02:51 |
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So I opened up the computer and tried unplugging and plugging in some of the cables and I think that was the issue. Did my floor test by stomping the ground, but no display crash. Loaded up Modern Warfare II and played that while I had YouTube playing in Firefox, and no display crash. I'm not 100% sure the problem is fixed, but it seem to be stable. The reason I say I'm not sure is because I don't really know what cables I was supposed to be looking for or looking at. I pulled out a couple of cable that looked loose, but then I saw that they were labeled for USB and Audio. I took a look at foldout booklet for the motherboard, and I thought it was the big ATX cable, but I couldn't pry that out. What I think it was, is this cable here, and what happened is that the bundle of cable that lead to the video card shifted up and pushed that cable out of its socket. I pulled the plug out, plugged it back in, and tried to shift the cable bundle down a bit further so it wouldn't push up on that cable. The reason I say I'm not sure if it's 100% fixed is that I don't know if the cable getting pushed up out of the socket caused the socket to bend or warp, because even after plugging it back in, it still seemed like it was wobbly. Maybe it's just supposed to be like that, but it seem like it could happen again if the video cable migrates up again. Alternatively, it was some other cable entirely, and so I don't know which is was, but, uh, problem solved! For now at least. My next goal (which I'm going to delay until I've monitored the computer for a time to see if it has any more issues) is to add an SSD and HDD to it. I found the bay for the HDDs, and I think those square sections above the power supply are for SSDs, but I'm not sure how I would go about plugging them in. The power supply has that shield/shroud around it, and I don't know how to remove it. The product page for the 4000D shows they plug in somewhere in the cable shaft that goes up the middle, but I don't see that in my photo. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Aug 3, 2023 |
# ? Aug 3, 2023 06:58 |
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Max Wilco posted:
I'm not sure which cable that is but it being loose could cause who knows what issues. Looks like maybe front panel or RGB, not sure without looking up the motherboard but every connector should be in the manual. The hard drives go in the trays on the bottom left in the second photo. You pull them out the back side, put the drives in and put them back in, no need to remove the basement cover. You just plug the power supply SATA power cable into the RM850e there and it goes into the drive, it's a short distance. I hope they shipped the extra cables from the PSU. SATA just goes from the drive up and then over to the motherboard. Likewise the 3.5" SSD will mount on the squares behind the motherboard if you want, undo the thumbscrew and then use drive screws to attach them to the bottom of the SSD. You'd then need SATA power from the power supply and run a SATA cable from the disk around to the hole and then to the motherboard. If you can't get to the power supply's modular plugs you can undo the screws for it and slide it back some to get easier access. Neatening cables up is just hiding the excess length behind the back and basement cover and strapping them in with the velcro or zip ties.
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 16:51 |
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I'm about to install an SN850x NVMe drive onto my MSI B550-A Pro motherboard. Do both NMVe slots deliver the same potential speed or is one slower than the other? The manual is here: https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/mb/E7C56v2.1.pdf
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 20:05 |
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WattsvilleBlues posted:I'm about to install an SN850x NVMe drive onto my MSI B550-A Pro motherboard. Do both NMVe slots deliver the same potential speed or is one slower than the other? The manual is here: The one closer to the CPU is wired straight to the CPU, which is always faster. Use that one.
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 20:07 |
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power crystals posted:The one closer to the CPU is wired straight to the CPU, which is always faster. Use that one. That's what I thought, I appreciate the fast response!
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 20:09 |
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That's the front panel USB-C cable. If it came loose, it could be causing a short that tripped the PSU protections. A bit unlikely, but sometimes computers do funny things.
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 20:16 |
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WattsvilleBlues posted:I'm about to install an SN850x NVMe drive onto my MSI B550-A Pro motherboard. Do both NMVe slots deliver the same potential speed or is one slower than the other? The manual is here: I know you already got the answer, but for the record, the section to check in the manual would be the specifications, where you'll find this: M2_1 is PCIe 4.0 while M2_2 is PCIe 3.0. Since the SN850X is a 4.0 drive, you want it in M2_1. Motherboards will almost always label these in numerical (or alphabetical) order from top to bottom. The labels will be printed onto the board itself, or you can confirm the slot by referencing the board overview a few pages down: Where you'll see that M2_1 is indeed the slot closest to the CPU, which is where you should install the drive.
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 20:41 |
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Rexxed posted:I'm not sure which cable that is but it being loose could cause who knows what issues. Looks like maybe front panel or RGB, not sure without looking up the motherboard but every connector should be in the manual. I don't think they included the manual. All I had in the box was the quick install guide for the motherboard. However, the box did include extra cables for the PSU, and some SATA and PCI-E cables, so I'm good on that front. The problem is trying to physically find where the plugs are at, and how I can reach them. Since I couldn't figure out how to remove the basement cover, I couldn't see if there were any open plugs on the PSU that I could use (there's a tab on the front top of it, but I think that's removed so you can put cooling in the front). I assume the power cables that are in there have extensions/outlets I connect to the drives, I just can't see them in the photo I took, so either they're buried in under the basement cover, or tied up elsewhere. Additionally, the SATA cables I got seem kind of short. I think they'll reach for the SSD mounts, but the HDD bays seem like they're a lot farther away than what the cable can reach. grack posted:That's the front panel USB-C cable. If it came loose, it could be causing a short that tripped the PSU protections. A bit unlikely, but sometimes computers do funny things. I remember a while ago I was asking someone about iBuyPower PCs, and they said there was an issue where they wouldn't boot because of the WiFi components (either the antenna or something else related to that), and removing it was the solution. You wouldn't think something like that would cause an issue, but I guess computers are just weird like that. I think fixing that cable did fix the issue, because I've been able to play MWII for a couple of hours today, and it's doing fine. I'm going to monitor the computer for a while (maybe a month) before I start adding extra storage to it, just to make sure there's not another issue and I do have to send it back to Origin (assuming I can get in touch with them again, since they never replied to the email I sent).
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 22:02 |
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You gotta download manuals these days. Though they still sometimes give cd/dvds for drivers.
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 22:54 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:I know you already got the answer, but for the record, the section to check in the manual would be the specifications, where you'll find this: That's what made me ask in the first place, and it confirms what I thought. I was just surprised that both NVMe slots weren't Gen 4. Thanks for the education though, good to know these things. Maybe it's a placebo effect but I'm pretty sure some applications are launching faster than they were on either my WD SN550 or my Crucial P3. Microsoft Teams and Office seem to pop in faster and things just feel ever so slightly snappier. WattsvilleBlues fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Aug 3, 2023 |
# ? Aug 3, 2023 23:39 |
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WattsvilleBlues posted:That's what made me ask in the first place, and it confirms what I thought. I was just surprised that both NVMe slots weren't Gen 4. Thanks for the education though, good to know these things. In addition to the Gen 3/Gen 4/etc., it matters how they're connected. Better motherboard manuals will give a block diagram of how that all works. This manual does, though it's only partial credit for not showing which slot is which: Anything that has to pass through the PCH (chipset) has to share bandwidth with everything else that does, but stuff connected to the CPU has all of its lanes dedicated. On this board for example the second m.2 slot is sharing bandwidth with the NIC and most of the USB ports. Even if that second slot was gen 4, the CPU-attached one would still perform better. Also pay attention to that "Switch", that generally means you get one or the other, not both (sometimes it's a split so it's x8/nothing vs. x4/x4 or something like that, but usually it's only one), and page 15 confirms it's m.2 #2 OR pcie slot "E3", not both. Manuals that don't include the block diagram should still have all this data in textual form, but sometimes they can't even manage that because sucks to be you you already bought the thing.
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# ? Aug 4, 2023 00:31 |
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To add: Not that it matters much nowadays, but on chipset like b550, populating the second nvme slot will limit how many sata devices can be connected. I think it goes from 6 to 3.
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# ? Aug 4, 2023 00:50 |
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Box wine posted:You gotta download manuals these days. Though they still sometimes give cd/dvds for drivers. That's the thing. They did give a CD for the drivers. Only problem is that there's no disc drive in the computer, so I've got to find an external one. I don't know which one to get though. I thought about getting an external Blu-Ray drive, but I don't know if that's worth the cost. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Aug 4, 2023 |
# ? Aug 4, 2023 02:27 |
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Yudo posted:To add: That depends on the board. In this case, based on the diagram posted here, it looks like the PCI_E3 slot is disabled when using M2_2, while you get to keep all of your sata ports.
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# ? Aug 4, 2023 02:43 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:That depends on the board. In this case, based on the diagram posted here, it looks like the PCI_E3 slot is disabled when using M2_2, while you get to keep all of your sata ports. I didn't realize it was a board by board thing. It is something I will be cognizant of in the future shopping for MBs.
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# ? Aug 4, 2023 03:00 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 21:33 |
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Yudo posted:I didn't realize it was a board by board thing. It is something I will be cognizant of in the future shopping for MBs. Yeah, it's all about the pcie switches like that one above. I've seen boards do things like have 6 sata ports from the chipset like normal and then two more hung off an x1 switch that shares them with an x1 pcie slot. I haven't personally seen one that shares an m.2 slot with sata ports, but there's no reason you couldn't. On the other hand are you sure you aren't confusing that with sata mode m.2 being shared with sata ports? The moral is always look at the block diagram before you buy a board, and probably don't buy one that doesn't have one.
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# ? Aug 4, 2023 03:08 |