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Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Good work. I have this box and they were fun to paint except for the jerk at the back. He is still sitting around primed and I can’t get the energy to slap paint on him. The pose is so boring. I’m tempted to replace the head on his mace with a stop/go sign and turn him into an undead lollipop lady.

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Mr.Fuzzywig
Dec 13, 2006
I play too much Supcom

What do you use to make the sand dunes looking bases? I'm trying to do something like that myself and while I think it looks okay I want more defined dunes.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
Accidentally posted in the unspiration thread. Oops.

Harvey Mantaco posted:

Working on the magnus skin, pretty happy with it.



Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
lets paint rocks



road from a strip of plasticard


test composition

Chill la Chill
Jul 2, 2007

Don't lose your gay


Is there a better coverage yellow (in general or over black) nowadays or is the preferred technique still to paint a good coverage brown first and layer up?

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Chill la Chill posted:

Is there a better coverage yellow (in general or over black) nowadays or is the preferred technique still to paint a good coverage brown first and layer up?

Paint area an off white that covers well and is easy, then use imperial fist contrast

It's the only good yellow paint but you have to use it over a light base coat.

Disproportionation
Feb 20, 2011

Oh god it's the Clone Saga all over again.
Any yellow paint generally needs an undercoat of white or pink (oddly enough) before going over in yellow, yeah.

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


weirdly what I have found works well:

Undercoat of Apple Barrel yellow acrylic craft paint (which has oddly great coverage)
Coat of the yellow of your choice.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Go back in time about 20 years and stock up on GW Iyanden Darksun Foundation paint

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Silhouette posted:

Go back in time about 20 years and stock up on GW Iyanden Darksun Foundation paint

Averland Sunset is pretty much the same. Base Zandri Dust and go over with Averland Sunset.

Wash with Seraphim sepia and highlight.

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Would drink at that bar

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Nebalebadingdong posted:

lets paint rocks



road from a strip of plasticard


test composition


Your teeny tiny bullshit is always so good

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Z the IVth posted:

Averland Sunset is pretty much the same. Base Zandri Dust and go over with Averland Sunset.

Wash with Seraphim sepia and highlight.

I like zandri dust (or whatever khaki) then a warm off white lazily highlighted over, then iyanden yellow contrast or imperial fist contrast. Ez peasy

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Z the IVth posted:

Averland Sunset is pretty much the same. Base Zandri Dust and go over with Averland Sunset.

Wash with Seraphim sepia and highlight.

Yeah, but Iyanden Darksun was some kind of miracle paint, because you could get solid coverage over black with two coats.

Of yellow.

I mean it was more of a mustard than a true yellow but still!


Edit: fuckin RIP Iyanden Darksun and Mechrite Red, gone before your time~

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat
I'm painting up a space marine army right now and I'm finding that, after I muss up my Imperial Fists yellow contrast layer with Seraphim Sepia, no amount of Vallejo Sun Yellow will cover it unless I first go grey, then white.

I bought the brown tamia panel liner that Erick used in this video and I don't know what I'm doing wrong, it's so, so faint. I'd really like to use it instead of the Seraphim Sepia but it way too thin and translucent:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPLHZKPR9Bc&t=960s

I'd really, really like to get his method to work, because it's fast and has results I'd be perfectly happy with, but my panel liner just doesn't seem to act like his.

Edit: Hmn, I'd forgotten he uses gloss varnish before the panel liner. Maybe that's my mistake.

Arcturas
Mar 30, 2011

Panel liner really likes to go on over gloss varnish for a few reasons - one, the glossy finish makes it wick much stronger, two, it lets you wipe it off with a q-tip (and maybe alcohol, I forget) much easier so you can tidy up big open spaces, and three, when you leverage tidying up open spaces and spills with a q-tip, you can apply it more heavily to get darker tints.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Man, despite his various degrees of vocal fry, I could watch Eric's Hobby Workshop all day. I sincerely hope he continues to be a successful hobby youtuber and doesn't end up becoming unbearable like all the rest after reaching a high level of patreon followers.

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat
Is gloss varnish something I can buy at a home improvement store, like a spray on clear coat or something? I'll go get some tomorrow.

Checking out the Duncan video on it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSKkwDRzuTw

Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Aug 5, 2023

Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

Jack B Nimble posted:

Is gloss varnish something I can buy at a home improvement store, like a spray on clear coat or something? I'll go get some tomorrow.

That's exactly it, but you could also use whatever Future Floor Wax is called now as well. Just make sure that if your do go the rattlecan route, that you make sure it's a) glossy and b) clear. Don't accidentally hit your painted model with some gloss off-white because people switched the caps before putting them back. :tizzy:

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges






Continuing to paint the Fyreslayers boxed set I picked up!

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Aniodia posted:

That's exactly it, but you could also use whatever Future Floor Wax is called now as well. Just make sure that if your do go the rattlecan route, that you make sure it's a) glossy and b) clear. Don't accidentally hit your painted model with some gloss off-white because people switched the caps before putting them back. :tizzy:

A friend of mine once mixed up the caps on his own cans of clear varnish and black primer

he got so pissed that he just silently dumped the models in the trash lmao

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

AP Daemonic Yellow is a good regular yellow. Still needs white or pink or khaki under it because all yellows are translucent and turn green when painted over blue, but it's fine.

The skull white undercoat experiment is chugging along and honestly, if you can’t spray prime for whatever reason just brushing on whatever for an undercoat is fine, actually. Just paint some dudes, they'll be fine.

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
I really like Averland Sunset, it's such a nice muted yellow over something off white and it's golden enough over white.


That said I really hate using yellow in my own art...

Chill la Chill
Jul 2, 2007

Don't lose your gay


Ah drat. Iyanden dark sun sounds familiar and I think I had it at one point but I think I gave my leftovers to a friend when I took a break from painting minis. Thanks for the tips.

Is the off white of choice still VMC ivory and deck tan? I have notes here but I forget if those had good coverage or were just really good for mixing and off white highlights.

Also since I’m at it, P3 Cygnus yellow was good to me as a non chalky yellow and was recommended back in the old threads. Is there an equivalent in dropper bottle form? I’ve tried contrast paints and while I could try the yellow suggested, I wasn’t really a fan of the brush technique used to apply them. Leaving the brush in contact with the model and trying not to go over the same spot twice lest you disturb the film is the opposite of what I normally do.

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007



5 more chosen

E: all the lads

Geisladisk fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Aug 5, 2023

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

AP Desert Yellow is a nicely covering tan/mustard yellow, and AP Skeleton Bone is a completely okay sandy white that I do all my highlights with.

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
Oh can I ask, for those here that have done industrial safety chevrons on models, what a good approach is to it? First time I tried freehanding black over the yellow, and it was ok, I had better luck with a fineline pen, but I'm thinking next time to try some tape, all I have is electrical tape atm but I'm a bit concerned about stripping paint off the model when I remove it

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Modellers masking tape from Tamiya for masking. Or just get good at freehand with black (mix ink into paint, have a steady hand)

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Shoehead posted:

Oh can I ask, for those here that have done industrial safety chevrons on models, what a good approach is to it? First time I tried freehanding black over the yellow, and it was ok, I had better luck with a fineline pen, but I'm thinking next time to try some tape, all I have is electrical tape atm but I'm a bit concerned about stripping paint off the model when I remove it

For large flat areas, masking tape. For small curved bits like space marine shoulder pads, just freehand it. I've found that them being straight actually matters less than them being consistently thick with the alternating black and yellow stripes being the same thickness.

As a general rule, never paint yellow over black. What I do is start with black, do the stripe with a caucasian flesh tone, and then do the yellow over that. I then tidy the stripe up with the black again if it looks wonky - Since I'm doing chaos guys, I tend to make it look intentionally a bit messy by doing it with irregular dots.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Shoehead posted:

Oh can I ask, for those here that have done industrial safety chevrons on models, what a good approach is to it? First time I tried freehanding black over the yellow, and it was ok, I had better luck with a fineline pen, but I'm thinking next time to try some tape, all I have is electrical tape atm but I'm a bit concerned about stripping paint off the model when I remove it

One neat trick I just learnt is to use watercolours to sketch before you freehand. They'll wash off with a wet brush so you can adjust your lines until you're happy before you paint them with acrylics.

Paragon8
Feb 19, 2007

Chill la Chill posted:

Ah drat. Iyanden dark sun sounds familiar and I think I had it at one point but I think I gave my leftovers to a friend when I took a break from painting minis. Thanks for the tips.

Is the off white of choice still VMC ivory and deck tan? I have notes here but I forget if those had good coverage or were just really good for mixing and off white highlights.

Also since I’m at it, P3 Cygnus yellow was good to me as a non chalky yellow and was recommended back in the old threads. Is there an equivalent in dropper bottle form? I’ve tried contrast paints and while I could try the yellow suggested, I wasn’t really a fan of the brush technique used to apply them. Leaving the brush in contact with the model and trying not to go over the same spot twice lest you disturb the film is the opposite of what I normally do.

Imperial Fist alongside a few other contrasts are not as contrasty because they are single pigment and operate more like a glaze and you have a decent amount of working time to use it. It genuinely is worth a try even if you've had a negative experience with contrast before.

I personally like to use it over Golden Brown for my yellows.

There's a lot of dropper bottle ranges now! They're all pretty good. The newly formulated Vallejo Game Color might be worth looking into. I'm really enjoying using the AK Gen 3 acrylic range. The deck tan they have is just lovely.

People also really like the Pro Acryl range from monument

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Jack B Nimble posted:

Is gloss varnish something I can buy at a home improvement store, like a spray on clear coat or something? I'll go get some tomorrow.

Checking out the Duncan video on it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSKkwDRzuTw

Go to an art store and you can find all sorts of neat stuff like crackle medium by the tub and Gloss/Satin/Matte Acrylic varnishes.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
RE Future, if you want to use floor polish as your varnish coat, go with God, but just be aware that primordial modelers picked it up at a time when you couldn't find reliable sources of cheap acrylic varnish shipped to your door for pocket money. It doesn't have magical properties or anything.

Chacmool
Apr 12, 2007

Harvey Mantaco posted:

Accidentally posted in the unspiration thread. Oops.





Wow, really incredible work so far! Looking forward to seeing the finished model.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 17 days!

grassy gnoll posted:

RE Future, if you want to use floor polish as your varnish coat, go with God, but just be aware that primordial modelers picked it up at a time when you couldn't find reliable sources of cheap acrylic varnish shipped to your door for pocket money. It doesn't have magical properties or anything.

On the flipside, I did a wash of 4 parts Pledge Floor Care to 1 drop of indigo ink and it flowed right into the recesses of the Ultramarine I was painting, with nary a sign of pooling or any splotchy parts on flat surfaces. Especially when compared to the Army Painter Blue Tone wash I had applied to a couple of other figures, which did have these things happen.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

grassy gnoll posted:

RE Future, if you want to use floor polish as your varnish coat, go with God, but just be aware that primordial modelers picked it up at a time when you couldn't find reliable sources of cheap acrylic varnish shipped to your door for pocket money. It doesn't have magical properties or anything.

It's self leveling and water thin, so yeah it kinda does

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]

Mr.Fuzzywig posted:

What do you use to make the sand dunes looking bases? I'm trying to do something like that myself and while I think it looks okay I want more defined dunes.

I used this technique, which uses drywall filler.

The "use eyedropper to wet the surface" step is the most important; don't neglect that.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Silhouette posted:

It's self leveling and water thin, so yeah it kinda does

It's magical property is that everyone used it exclusively for a long time so there are tons of valid recipes that utilize it instead of purpose made varnishes.
I still use it to make bulk washes because I have no idea what recipe to use to make it with anything else.

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]


Not done, but I can't do anything to them until the oil wash fully dries, so... basically they can sit on the shelf for a week or two before I go back to use contrast paints to fully darken little flat plastic planes that connect some of the legs together, and maybe apply slight highlights to some of the front legs. Might also reinforce the glow more, but that could be gilding the lily. In retrospect I should have blacked out the spots between legs after doing the metal and glow but before doing the oil wash, but I was impatient.

The plan was to have glowing green spots directly underneath the scarabs to create the impression they were projecting light downward underneath them, but I hosed up a bunch of the dot positions and also made the glowing spots both too small and probably too bright, so lesson learned. Not going back to fix it -- they look fine, are already glued in place, and I can always do my other six scarab swarms better if I ever get around to doing them.

(And yeah, I hosed up the direction of the sand dunes on the one on the lower right. Oh, well. "Oh, well" is my motto for these Necrons, to be honest.)

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Assessor of Maat
Nov 20, 2019

Crosspost:

Assessor of Maat posted:

Finished that apothecary off:



Pleased with how it turned out, and I think I've got a grip on how to paint the rest of the army now, so that's nice.

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