Gunpla/Plamo Thread Mk.IV

The Something Awful Forums > The Finer Arts > VEGETA > Gunpla/Plamo Thread Mk.IV

Warmachine: Jan 30, 2012

grassy gnoll posted:

Special chaos round rules this year: build any plastic kit. Hams, tanks, garage kits, whatever. The catch is it has to have at least three colors on it by the time you're finished, so no grey blobs. Unless you're painting a USAF plane, I guess. I reserve the right to award as many points as I feel like are merited by the level of work involved in Chaos Kits, so here's your chance to really gently caress with the standings.

Warmachine posted:

Wildcard sends me to the regular Scale Modeling thread to build a Hasegawa F-15E in 1:72 scale.

I don't appreciate this callout.

# ? Aug 3, 2023 21:40

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# ? May 22, 2024 00:16

Waffleman_: Jan 20, 2011; I don't wanna I don't wanna I don't wanna I don't wanna!!!

grassy gnoll posted:

Backlogust ZZ!

Plamo ja nai...

# ? Aug 3, 2023 23:14

wdarkk: Oct 26, 2007; Friends: Protected
World: Saved
Crablettes: Eaten

Juggernaut complete, Gundam G40 will be next.

If I do a box that comes with two full-sized HGs like that Vayate/Mercurius set, does that count as two?

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# ? Aug 4, 2023 02:42

boz: Oct 16, 2005

Starting with some pbandai

Edit: sorry I ended up using a different time page cause I couldn't remember the one we used last year and I started on this yesterday. If it doesn't count no biggy. Definitely going to be ledd stuff built this year as I no longer work does graveyard shift

boz fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Aug 4, 2023

# ? Aug 4, 2023 03:00

wdarkk: Oct 26, 2007; Friends: Protected
World: Saved
Crablettes: Eaten

Starting G40.

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# ? Aug 4, 2023 03:04

Diet Poison: Jan 20, 2008; LICK MY ASS

One down. I dunno if you only wanna call a 30mm kit only a half point or not, but this took me a lot longer than the standard Alto. And mind yer business about how fuckin dusty my poo poo is.

#2: been wanting to build this for a long time now, I love the weird aquatic Zeon suits.

# ? Aug 4, 2023 04:28

BisbyWorl: Jan 12, 2019; Knowledge is pain plus observation.

I'll be starting Backlogust with a nice lil HG Shenlong.

# ? Aug 4, 2023 05:58

Tergaso: Mar 4, 2007; My God! Wooden eels! Surface! Surface!

Hyped to participate, and to build my first RE/100 kit.

# ? Aug 4, 2023 06:08

chrome line: Oct 13, 2022

Finished my first kit, in the interest of full disclosure I'd built the head before taking the picture but after the month started. The RG Wing TV was fun but kind of a pain

Next up is the MG Barbatos!

# ? Aug 4, 2023 09:31

Lemon-Lime: Aug 6, 2009

What's the rule on finishing kits you started a couple of months ago and have just had sort of languishing around in a half-built state? Because I have a few of those. :v:

# ? Aug 4, 2023 09:48

Kuvo: Oct 27, 2008; Blame it on the misfortune of your bark!; Fun Shoe

curse these pbandai exclusives

https://twitter.com/11Vadu/status/1687052571654164480

# ? Aug 4, 2023 18:51

uwaeve: Oct 21, 2010; focus this time so i don't have to keep telling you idiots what happened; Lipstick Apathy

Nullkigan posted:

God Hands seem to do limited production runs, and then 'discontinue' the tools until the next one, even for the exact same item. I guess they don't necessarily know when their next factory slot will be and don't want people on an indefinite waiting list. HLJ seems to make a new listing for them every time there's a production run, so those two listings are probably a similar situation. Or, more likely, it's just amazon marketplace shenanigans.

Be careful about buying stuff from amazon in this hobby that isn't sold and fulfilled by amazon itself - arguing about serial numbers and the difference between HG and RG is a pain. Check the reputations of the sellers as well, not just the reviews of the item - God Hands in particular were scalped and scammed to hell two years ago.

There's a lot of different types of gundam marker and different routes to panel lining. There's four main types of paint - lacquer, enamel, acrylic, and oil, but I've never seen a lacquer based panel lining product before. Subdivisions exist, so there's "solvent" (often called alcohol based) and "aqueous" (water based) acrylics, with the former being more dangerous to bare plastic than the latter.

But to keep things relatively simple; (no specific ordering here, beyond stuff up top being more likely to harm bare plastic)

Enamel washes also exist from other manufacturers, but tend to not have as good capillary action as the Tamiya stuff. Still has some, just like 70%ish. Otherwise, treat as Tamiya stuff, including risks to bare plastic.

Tamiya Panel Line Accent is enamel based and runs hot, which means it can damage plastic. For safety a clear GLOSS varnish is typically recommended. Lacquer types will be better than acrylic ones, as the thinners used to clean up (whether lighter fluid or various odourless enamel thinner offerings) can eat into acrylic gloss. Some people risk it by lining on the runner, but it produces a far greater number of posts about cracked plastic than...

Pour Type Gundam markers (sometimes called Flow Type or Ultra Thin) are oil paint based, but the thinner means they can still run a little warm / have minor risk associated with it. Capilliary action is pretty decent but not quite as good as Tamiya. If you use Pour Type on bare bandai plastic the only time you'll really have a problem is if you really pool it in or if there was already an invisible flaw. I haven't had a problem with them.

Some folks recommend lining on the runner and flipping it over whilst it's drying to minimise the stress on the part whilst the thinner evaporates.

Grey ones (good for white armour) only seem to be sold in sets with several less desirable colours, but at least the supply has improved since the pandemic so prices have come down a lot if you shop around.

Fine tip type Gundam markers are also oil based according to the manufacturer, but very difficult to create pools with. The brown version also tends to run a bit over time for some folks.

Real touch Gundam markers are... I have no idea what, but they're basically like dry-erase markers; if you don't seal that stuff in with a topcoat you can rub it off even years later. They're bare plastic friendly, and meant for blending up weathering effects (stipple different colours then rub them about to give a stained, beaten look), but some folks do use them for panel lining too.

Soft/felt tip gundam markers are pretty much universally safe, but difficult to get a fine line with. I only have a couple of these because they came with other markers. Generic acrylic paint markers probably come in around here.

Sakura Micron Pigma pens (I tend to go for the 003 size) are finer than Fine Tip gundam markers and pretty safe, but realistically you only get black, which may be harsh on white. Red and sepia ones exist, but I've never bought one. Not sure about how they react with different types of plastic.

You can also try stuff like acrylic miniature washes (Games Workshop's Nuln Oil being most famous, but there also offerings from Vallejo etc) but they don't seem to get used very often by gunpla builders. They do, from distant memory, leave a thin layer of pigment over all surfaces as well as pooling in recesses, so you may want to wipe the excess up afterwards.

There's also the 'grunge wash' (or gunk wash or a dozen other names) technique using oil paints, where you basically paint a layer of oil paint (which is very safe as is) over the model, and then rub it away leaving grunge in the recesses and panel lines. "Starship filth" by Abteillung/MIG (I think?) is a nice colour for this, being slightly green-brown rather than pure black.

I've done this with acrylic markers too, zealously applying down white or light grey on darker models and pushing the nib into panel lines (tbf this does kind of damage the marker so not recommending it) and then removing the excess with a 1000 grit sponge or toothpick

Specifically for plastic in joints that manages to avoid top coats because you've already built the kit or whatever, I'd consider the acrylic miniature wash stuff. If the pigment on flat bits later gets rubbed away by moving the joint (acrylic not being the strongest of paints), it'll look like genuine use of the joint.

BIG CAVEAT: Do NOT use enamel washes (tamiya or otherwise), pour type markers, or fine tip (manufacturer specifically warns against it) gundam markers on bare ABS plastic.

The thinners react really harshly and crack it with ease.

ABS plastic is usually indicated by a tag on the runner or a call-out in the manual; it's fairly uncommon on modern gundam kits, but older ones had inner frames of it, and kotobukiya used to make models entirely out of ABS (though they've moved on a bit; the recent Muv Luv series is PS like gundams)

Finally, a bit of a plug of something I learned earlier in the thread - when tidying up panel lines using the right type of cotton bud can save immense pain and having to reapply lines over and over. A loosely spun one from the supermarket will pull stuff out of lines, whilst a tight one will only take stuff off the surface, leaving the line itself intact. In my case the only option for tight spun buds is Tamiya, which is expensive but worth it. In the States and Canada, I've heard people say gun cleaning swabs tend to be tightly spun, but I can't confirm.

Just wanted you to know this didn't go to waste, it was super informative and helpful. The real touch things are strange, they claim to be water-based, and when wet can certainly be cleaned off with water, but once dried take a little more aggressive solvent, I can't remember if I tried the lighter fluid>mineral spirits>turpentine or alcohol>acetone>hobby lacquer route for getting the staining off.

I would have guessed alcohol for the pour-type and fine tip markers, but you are obviously right about them being labeled as oil-type paint.

I have had a number of learning experiences as a result of experimentation from this post so I'm coming up the learning curve. It seems like everything has a hidden gotcha that I have discovered on my own (vallejo acrylics turning to cottage cheese if alcohol touches them, VMS acrylic varnish turning to straight adhesive when acetone touches it (guess what hobby lacquer thinner is based largely on lmao)), etc. The latest was I put the VMS acrylic gloss varnish on probably too thick, then tried pour type markers thinking "oil on acrylic should be fine" but it just soaked in and no amount of oil solvent stuff will touch it, time to strip it and start fresh (and see if waterslides survive an IPA bath [edit: IPA dissolves waterslides so I guess I'm cleaning up this panel lining/varnish with pointed swabs lol] as that's what will take this acrylic varnish off). Technically haven't tried turpentine but making zero impact with mineral spirits so I think it's essentially soaked into the acrylic.

Next kit was decals and Tamiya Panel Line Accent while on the runner, being careful of pooling. Cleaning that up now to see how it goes. I hear you on the stupid Tamiya swabs, I had asked upthread if there was any suitable substitute, but all the other ones I've tried (even the ones recommended around gunpla posts/videos) have fallen short. I did get a gaianotes detail master thing with what looks to be cleanable 45 degree cylinder tip things that are extremely dense foam and have a nice flat surface, I'll see how that works out. I may have to just eat the $0.10/swab average price of the Tamiya ones though, all cost of doing a kit I suppose.

CommunityEdition posted:

It should. The really dangerous thing is lining assembled parts. I had a Wing Zero Ver. Ka�s forehead crumble to little pieces within minutes after a drop of panel liner wicked its way under the cockatoo crest, where the solvent couldn�t evaporate freely. If you�re looking for a ready mixed option, some Nuln Oil is safe for all parts, and is my go-to for those panel lines that hide the seam between two parts. Really the only thing to watch out for is not trying to clean it up with alcohol when you�ve done an acrylic top coat underneath.

I'll check into Nuln oil, more chemical interaction notes to remember!

Nerobro posted:

As far as I can tell. The high end single blade god hand cutters have a working lifetime, with the end being a snapped blade. And that ~suuuuuucks~.

I don't know what nippers you're using now. But it's a good bet that the Stedi MS-100's are gonna absoltuely change your world. But, assuming you have something nice.

Here's a $25 single blade cutter, that is ~very good~: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BF4JKZDK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 They're $25, the Stedi MS-106.

I also tried these last weekend, and they're very, very, slightly better. The Mister Hobby MT106: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FCDS8ZX/ They're also $25.

If you're absolutely not going to break out glass files or other things on your kits... maybe the $50 for godhand 120s. But... they require special treatment that none of these will.

Tamiya panel liner works fine on modern kits. It's best to do before you assemble the kit so it doesn't suck into joints.

I started with a Micro Mark single-blade job which was amazing compared to like electrical flush cutters, but went ahead and bought some PN-120 and SPN-120 to see what the big deal was and the machining and tolerances are way better. Visually, measurably, and by feel.

I'm now using the Micro Marks to hack sprues, the PNs to do most of my nub work including final cuts for most things, and I'm saving the SPNs for like special occasions I guess? Under a bit of magnification, the blade thickness is clearly different between the Micro Marks, PNs, and SPNs. The offset on the anvil appears to get smaller as well, but I couldn't quite get the calipers to sit repeatably perpendicular to see if it's measurable. I noticed a very slight difference between the PN and SPN's best final cuts. There's probably something there but given I'm learning to glass file and sand as well, just using the PNs as my final seem fine. I could probably return the SPNs and move on with life but they really do feel nice and I'm a bit of a "spend on tools" idiot so I'll probably just hang on.

uwaeve fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Aug 4, 2023

# ? Aug 4, 2023 21:48

Nerobro: Nov 4, 2005; Rider now with 100% more titanium!

I currently own four single blade nippers. Only one of them is better than the Stedi MS-100's.

I think there's a lot to be said about nippers. And I think the ubiquity of $2-3-5 nippers makes the market hard to value. And then the name recognition of godhand blows everyone else to kingdom come.

# ? Aug 4, 2023 22:16

Warmachine: Jan 30, 2012

Lemon-Lime posted:

What's the rule on finishing kits you started a couple of months ago and have just had sort of languishing around in a half-built state? Because I have a few of those.

Also interested in this. Delta Plus is taunting me. Otherwise, the GK is up.

# ? Aug 4, 2023 22:25

Prof. Banks: Apr 22, 2015; Computer lab day! Time to spend 45 minutes trying to load pokemon.com!

I've had a months long break from Gunpla after cutting my thumb biking while distracted. Backlogust is a good excuse to get back to clearing out some of the dozen kits I've got in the closet.

What up, Hy-Gogg buddy.

# ? Aug 5, 2023 07:44

kirbysuperstar: Nov 11, 2012; Let the fools who stand before us be destroyed by the power you and I possess.

Lost one of the very first pieces on this within minutes of starting :lfgoo:

# ? Aug 5, 2023 08:50

BisbyWorl: Jan 12, 2019; Knowledge is pain plus observation.

BisbyWorl posted:

I'll be starting Backlogust with a nice lil HG Shenlong.

I bet the Shenlong is really good at basketball.

# ? Aug 5, 2023 10:08

Neddy Seagoon: Oct 12, 2012; "Hi Everybody!"

BisbyWorl posted:

I bet the Shenlong is really good at basketball.

High-five! :yayclod:

# ? Aug 5, 2023 10:14

Mr E: Sep 18, 2007

I already started my Eva-01 RG at the very end of last month so I�ll wait til whatever I work on next to join, probably MG Guntank or the Bandai HG Gypsy Avenger.

# ? Aug 5, 2023 14:09

BisbyWorl: Jan 12, 2019; Knowledge is pain plus observation.

Up next is an HG Heavyarms.

# ? Aug 5, 2023 15:38

PlushCow: Oct 19, 2005; The cow eats the grass

Kuvo posted:

curse these pbandai exclusives

https://twitter.com/11Vadu/status/1687052571654164480

I do not have room on the shelf for whatever grade this is

# ? Aug 5, 2023 16:43

Apprentice Dick: Dec 1, 2009

I decided I need to really start on some backlog kits, so MG Astray seemed like a good place.

# ? Aug 5, 2023 16:52

boz: Oct 16, 2005

Psycho Doga finished

Next to finally build this Zeta

# ? Aug 5, 2023 18:25

primaltrash: Feb 11, 2008; (Thought-ful Croak)

waiting for my clear coat to finish up God Gundam RG, but in the meantime this guy's in great shape

# ? Aug 5, 2023 19:04

Diet Poison: Jan 20, 2008; LICK MY ASS

boz posted:

Next to finally build this Zeta

I have not had the pleasure, myself, but from literally everything I've seen online, lmao. Everyone seems to hate it so much that it actually makes me want to build it.

# ? Aug 5, 2023 19:29

boz: Oct 16, 2005

Diet Poison posted:

I have not had the pleasure, myself, but from literally everything I've seen online, lmao. Everyone seems to hate it so much that it actually makes me want to build it.

Same here, reason I'm finally doing it.

# ? Aug 5, 2023 19:39

Azubah: Jun 5, 2007

It's an okay kit, can't really hold things very well.

# ? Aug 5, 2023 19:47

RillAkBea: Oct 11, 2008

Diet Poison posted:

I have not had the pleasure, myself, but from literally everything I've seen online, lmao. Everyone seems to hate it so much that it actually makes me want to build it.

It's an easy kit to hate because it comes so very close to being an absolute masterpiece. It's Bandai plastic engineering at its absolute finest, but it's also their big Icarus moment because the plastic really can't handle everything they're asking it to do. What you're left with is the most visually impressive Zeta ever produced in 144 scale but you're afraid to touch it or pose it much because you know how very little plastic is actually keeping it together.

# ? Aug 5, 2023 20:21

wdarkk: Oct 26, 2007; Friends: Protected
World: Saved
Crablettes: Eaten

G40 completed. Next up Try Age Magnum.

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# ? Aug 5, 2023 20:36

Justin_Brett: Oct 23, 2012; GAMERDOME put down LOSER

Started it before cut-off, but I'm working on the HG L-Gaim, and man it is clear it's a refurbished old kit in places. Never seen legs that seem to want to come apart this hard.

# ? Aug 5, 2023 21:09

Kuvo: Oct 27, 2008; Blame it on the misfortune of your bark!; Fun Shoe

https://twitter.com/GundamBro/status/1687615076314791937

# ? Aug 5, 2023 21:42

overlordbunny: Feb 16, 2011

I'm gonna start with the Sleggar GM.

# ? Aug 5, 2023 22:56

grassy gnoll: Aug 27, 2006; The pawsting business is tough work.

Early roundup this week. Again, these are probably going to be weekly this year, but if you're absolutely dying to know something, please quote me, DM me, email me, whatever.

People have reached out about prizes. Thank you so much! This literally doesn't work without your help. I am drafting messages back to everyone, forgive the delay.

Week One

wdarkk is first on the board with the HG Juggernaut, 1 point.

Up close behind is Diet Poison with a 30mm kit. I can never remember what they�re called. 1 point.

Chrome line pulls our first non-HG kit, the TV Wing. 2 points, even if the RG TV Wing is a fiddly SOB and probably calls for more.

BisbyWorl comes in with the moderate ups, 1 point.

wdarkk gets another HG in, 1 more point.

wdarkk and chrome line currently share the lead at a mere two points. Are you going to stand there and take that kind of sass?

wdarkk posted:

If I do a box that comes with two full-sized HGs like that Vayate/Mercurius set, does that count as two?

Two distinct models equals two distinct points. I guess if you have the ultraluxe Manganac Corps box, now�s the time.

Lemon-Lime posted:

What's the rule on finishing kits you started a couple of months ago and have just had sort of languishing around in a half-built state? Because I have a few of those.

�Partial credit� is about as much detail as I can tell you in a vacuum, I�m afraid. Depends on the complexity of the kit and how complete it is. Post what you got, give me a breakdown and I�ll be able to tell you more.

kirbysuperstar posted:

Lost one of the very first pieces on this within minutes of starting

Honor system is in place. I have no idea how complex this thing is. Can you give me an approximate Gunpla or scale model equivalence?

BisbyWorl posted:

I bet the Shenlong is really good at basketball.

Thank you for quoting your initial post. While not mandatory, that�s legit really helpful for me tracking who�s done what.

Mr E posted:

I already started my Eva-01 RG at the very end of last month so I�ll wait til whatever I work on next to join, probably MG Guntank or the Bandai HG Gypsy Avenger.

Worse case you get a point for half credit on an RG. Or the prospect of yet more points if you�re enough of a sicko to paint an RG, of course. Your call.

# ? Aug 5, 2023 23:09

Televisio Frankus: Jun 8, 2010

Got a kit today, one of my favorites.

# ? Aug 5, 2023 23:37

Mr E: Sep 18, 2007

grassy gnoll posted:

Worse case you get a point for half credit on an RG. Or the prospect of yet more points if you�re enough of a sicko to paint an RG, of course. Your call.

I had already opened most of the sprue bags and I have a pic of the parts I've cut out and are ready for primer. I have most of the RG Evangelion releases and I'm wanting to paint them all eventually. I've painted complex military models but this will be the most complex gunpla type thing I've done. Also have some water slide decals for the robot and platform since I like those more than stickers.

# ? Aug 5, 2023 23:45

grassy gnoll: Aug 27, 2006; The pawsting business is tough work.

Mr E posted:

I had already opened most of the sprue bags and I have a pic of the parts I've cut out and are ready for primer. I have most of the RG Evangelion releases and I'm wanting to paint them all eventually. I've painted complex military models but this will be the most complex gunpla type thing I've done. Also have some water slide decals for the robot and platform since I like those more than stickers.

I harbor dreams of painting my Unit-00 in the TV blues. You'll have to let me know how it goes.

It doesn't look like you've done much if any assembly, just some unbagging and a couple clipped out parts. If so, that'd get you full credit.

If anybody else is similarly on the fence about a partially-started model, definitely post your work and I can tell you for sure if it'd be worth your time.

# ? Aug 6, 2023 00:02

kirbysuperstar: Nov 11, 2012; Let the fools who stand before us be destroyed by the power you and I possess.

grassy gnoll posted:

Honor system is in place. I have no idea how complex this thing is. Can you give me an approximate Gunpla or scale model equivalence?

It's more complex than a HG, less than a MG though. So..probably RG or real mechanics but maybe a little less than that? About 15 runners.

# ? Aug 6, 2023 01:05

Gripweed: Nov 8, 2018

Since Backlaugust has been broadened to all plastic model kits, I've changed my goal to something a bit more in the spirt of the event. I've had this kit on my shelf, unbuilt, for a while now. It's pretty far out of my wheelhouse as it is in no conceivable way a robot

# ? Aug 6, 2023 01:56

Arc Hammer: Mar 4, 2013; Got any deathsticks?

Get you shootas and sharpen your choppas for that one. Are those some regular Boyz or a special unit?

# ? Aug 6, 2023 02:02

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# ? May 22, 2024 00:16

Gripweed: Nov 8, 2018

Arc Hammer posted:

Get you shootas and sharpen your choppas for that one. Are those some regular Boyz or a special unit?

It's the new Kommando kit, literally Ork Dirty Dozen

(please note, my models won't look as nice as that when I've finished painting them.)

# ? Aug 6, 2023 02:04

The Something Awful Forums > The Finer Arts > VEGETA > Gunpla/Plamo Thread Mk.IV

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