|
SpartanIvy posted:Are you on a slab or pier and beam? If you're dealing with excess humidity and are on pier and beam, I'd start looking in the crawl space. That really wouldn't explain the upstairs being significantly more humid though. Hygrometers are <$10... I'd probably buy one and try it on both floors, so you're got a consistent test device, and aren't relying on two different thermostats of unknown age.
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2023 00:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 04:28 |
|
|
It’s a slab, but yeah, it’s just the upstairs anyways. I do have a theory… it looks like a previous owner may have done some attic add-ons to give a bit more living space/storage space. It’s entirely possible those additions aren’t properly sealed off and attic/external air is slipping through.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2023 00:32
|
|
|
Gin_Rummy posted:It’s a slab, but yeah, it’s just the upstairs anyways. I can't believe you'd even imply a prior owner would do sloppy work on their house.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2023 00:36
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:I can't believe you'd even imply a prior owner would do sloppy work on their house. I meant it more in a sense of “I’m not sure if something like that could actually be the cause,” but great point. The previous homeowner is infallible after all… 
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2023 00:39
|
|
|
Gin_Rummy posted:It’s a slab, but yeah, it’s just the upstairs anyways. That would do it... and fixing it will reduce your power bills a bunch!
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2023 00:55
|
|
|
Is there a quick and easy way I can test this out without paying for an audit? I’ve been looking for an excuse to buy a thermal camera if that may be of use here
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2023 01:19
|
|
|
Gin_Rummy posted:Is there a quick and easy way I can test this out without paying for an audit? I’ve been looking for an excuse to buy a thermal camera if that may be of use here Nobody knows what's wrong and none other than you have seen this in person, so it's quite impossible to say. I don't see how a TIC is going to help with anything this time of year. Getting in the attic in the winter when you are heating the interior might. You shouldn't have to pay for an energy audit either. Call your electric power provider.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2023 01:21
|
|
|
Gin_Rummy posted:Is there a quick and easy way I can test this out without paying for an audit? I’ve been looking for an excuse to buy a thermal camera if that may be of use here Have any incense? Light some and go to where you think the additions are... if you can see the smoke being blown around, you've likely identified an air leak! Fixing depends on what you find, caulk, spray foam, ???
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2023 01:26
|
|
|
The attic additions seem pretty on the up-and-up to my untrained eye. But I did discover an additional plot twist: I just realized two upstairs closets (on a shared wall, somewhat close and caddy corner to each other) are EXTREMELY musty and humid. They both store clothes and nothing else of note. I think the blower for my downstairs HVAC unit sits above them, if that could be contributing to anything.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2023 02:40
|
|
|
Condensate for that air handler not draining and overflowing the pan into the floor and then down into those closets?
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2023 05:42
|
|
|
What are the steps to maintaining a furnace, other than replacing the filter? I have a standard natural gas furnace and am wondering if I can do the annual maintenance myself. All that comes to mind for me is: 1) combustion analysis (tool seems expensive, maybe I can rent once a year?) 2) clean off burners
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2023 17:33
|
|
|
Jenkl posted:What are the steps to maintaining a furnace, other than replacing the filter? I have a standard natural gas furnace and am wondering if I can do the annual maintenance myself. I don't think I've ever heard of routine maintenance involving a combustion analyzer. I think routine maintenance on a furnace is mostly just inspection for issues. Make sure the flames are nice and blue, check for cracks in the heat exchanger, look for anything out of place or wrong. Also have parts on hand for if it fails, like an extra flame sensor, ignitor, whatever else may be applicable. Make sure you have a carbon monoxide detector in your home too so you don't die if your heat exchanger fails suddenly during the season.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2023 18:57
|
|
|
Combustion analysis isnt a yearly check, unless a hx crack is suspected. More like every 5 years. Off the top of my head for a 90% condensing furnace: Filter Fan check (bearings ok, wheel clean?) Burner cleaning, check for rust and hx cracks Flame sensor and sparker cleaning Check hot surface ignitor if not spark (dont touch, they are fragile, you check them with a resistance meter) Inducer motor check (bearings, housing leaks) Pull all condensate hoses and traps (mark them so you can reassemble them properly) and flush with water. Electrical check, connections tight, no burn spots on boards or wear on wires. Gas valve pressure check (dont do this unless you know how and have a manometer) Full up function test, check if thermostat reads in the ballpark for temperature.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2023 19:38
|
|
|
My first step when tackling something new is to dig up a This Old House video on it, that's where I got the combustion analyzer suggestion. Richard loves that poo poo. I have a CO detector down there as well as at the bedrooms. Sounds like it's primarily visual inspections and cleaning. That should be nice and straightforward. Then, if I'm having issues or am so inclined, I can look at bringing out a pro for more detailed tests and/or learning to DIY that piece as well. How often do you get an excuse to buy a manometer!?!
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2023 00:48
|
|
|
Jenkl posted:My first step when tackling something new is to dig up a This Old House video on it, that's where I got the combustion analyzer suggestion. Richard loves that poo poo. They're great, but even more expensive than you think. The element in my Fieldpiece meter need to be replaced every 2 years ($140-ish). And it's a bitch trying to find them because nobody selling them lists when they were manufactured/knows that it matters/cares that they expire. I've ordered them online and gotten ones that are like 20 months old and I've had to send them back. Also, a manometer is cheap and you should totally buy one. I use this differential one and it's both cheap and great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01680C4C2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Hlariously, the probes you will need cost as much as this cheap meter: https://www.amazon.com/Fieldpiece-ASP2-Static-Pressure-Probes/dp/B0039UHM9U/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=manometer+probe&sr=8-1 But you can probably find less expensive ones. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Aug 9, 2023 |
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2023 00:54
|
|
|
Motronic posted:They're great, but even more expensive than you think. The element in my Fieldpiece meter need to be replaced every 2 years ($140-ish). And it's a bitch trying to find them because nobody selling them lists when they were manufactured/knows that it matters/cares that they expire. I've ordered them online and gotten ones that are like 20 months old and I've had to send them back. I have this exact Manometer and it's been great to me.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2023 01:28
|
|
|
Oh snap! Yeah I had some sticker shock when I googled the price of analyzers, and that was before the $140 biennual headache. Actually thinking about it, it definitely makes sense there's a component with a shelf life. Chemistry, man. And thanks for the rec, it's rare these days to get cheap and good finds off Amazon.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2023 01:34
|
|
|
That manometer suggestions is fine, but please don't blow your money on static pressure probes as a non professional. Even when I was using the manometer every day the probes sat in the van and got pulled out maybe once a year. TESP is for checking duct sizing, which you're not going to be fixing yourself, or setting variable fan speed, which is done on startup. a clogged filter is visually obvious. Same thing with a combustion rig. Most resi furnaces are designed to be at proper combustion ratios when you set the gas manifold pressure to the designated value. But hey if you've got money to burn 
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2023 02:16
|
|
|
MRC48B posted:That manometer suggestions is fine, but please don't blow your money on static pressure probes as a non professional. These are good points for a gas furnace. I'm dealing with oil where you're actually setting makeup air after service. I mean, yeah....plenty of people have set it by "how the flame looks" for many decades now, but I assure you you can do better with actual data/combustion meter which you will be using after you make sure the draft regulator is doing it's job with your differential manometer.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2023 02:22
|
|
|
That is entirely fair. I'm in the flyovers where oil doesn't exist anymore. All gas all the time, either propane or natty. gas boilers still get analyzed and combustion tuned once a year by law and insurance requirements, but its a dinosaur rule from the days of oil and steam boilers.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2023 02:25
|
|
|
My excuse for buying the static pressure probes was to figure out the CFM of a vintage range hood, which they did work for!
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2023 03:12
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:My excuse for buying the static pressure probes Blah blah blah you got a new tool and that's all we all care about. Good job making that happen. It's what we do here. I've been going over my stuff sorting into a new tool box and I'm thinking it looks like a commercial refrigeration van crashed into an automotive AC shop. Motronic fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Aug 9, 2023 |
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2023 03:15
|
|
|
Capacitor on our AC went out. It's all bulging and oozing. Soonest I can get a part is tomorrow through Amazon. Of course it happens in the middle of a heatwave.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2023 16:47
|
|
|
A MINIATURE LLAMA posted:Capacitor on our AC went out. It's all bulging and oozing. Soonest I can get a part is tomorrow through Amazon. Of course it happens in the middle of a heatwave. This is why it's recommended you always have a spare on hand. Parts always fail when they're under peak demand, and that's going to be when you really need them to be running. Also pick up a spare contactor while you're at it. That's the second most likely part to fail in your outdoor unit. The capacitor you bought on Amazon is probably not going to be a very durable brand either, so I wouldn't assume it's going to last as long as the prior capacitor did. Order the spares from a reputable source. I think mine are from supplyhouse.com Finally, when you're doing annual maintenance on your AC unit, check the capacitor with a multimeter to see if it's beginning to fail or not. Chances are your dead cap was on the road for failure for a while before it straight up died. If you'd caught it earlier you could have swapped it out and avoided any down time, or at least have been prepared. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Aug 13, 2023 |
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2023 16:54
|
|
|
A MINIATURE LLAMA posted:Capacitor on our AC went out. It's all bulging and oozing. Soonest I can get a part is tomorrow through Amazon. Of course it happens in the middle of a heatwave. Ace Hardware saved my rear end a couple years ago. They had one in stock and opened at 11 on Sunday. See if there’s some place like that local to you that has one But yeah I keep a spare contactor and cap for both of my systems on hand now. Cheap insurance.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2023 17:33
|
|
|
The brand of cap you want is American Radionics aka Amrad. But any port in a storm at this point.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2023 17:44
|
|
|
MRC48B posted:The brand of cap you want is American Radionics aka Amrad. I obviously trust your opinion as an hvac pro but are those really worth the premium? I have a couple genteq caps I got on Amazon for like 15 bucks each. Looks like the amrads are about 45. I’m in South Texas and my hvac guy says a cap is going to last 2-3 years max here no matter what. My AC units are unshaded on the west side of my house and it’s been almost 50 days over 100 degrees so far with the last week being over 105. I’ve been here 5 years and one system is on its 3rd cap the other is a couple years into its 2nd. Is the amrad really going to last over 6 years or should I just keep chucking 15 dollar genteqs at it every 2 years and keeping a spare on the shelf?
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2023 18:15
|
|
|
they have a warranty for 5 years, so they are betting they will. whether that's "worth it" is not a question I can answer for you.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2023 18:26
|
|
|
Also living in Texas do you really want to take the risk that your $30 savings dies out in a July heatwave next year rather than in 2-3 years?
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2023 18:38
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:This is why it's recommended you always have a spare on hand. Parts always fail when they're under peak demand, and that's going to be when you really need them to be running. Also pick up a spare contactor while you're at it. That's the second most likely part to fail in your outdoor unit. Got one today, and will check out suppyhouse.com for the (inevitable) back-up use. We're back to a functioning unit!
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2023 21:18
|
|
|
Looking to by a Merv8 re-usable filter for furnace. My house uses 20x20x2 but I only see 20x20x1 for re-usable. Any reason why I can't use it? I guess jus clean it more often? Any reason I shouldn't use a re-useable (clean yoself) filter?)
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2023 23:23
|
|
|
thinner filter (one in vs two in) has less filter area, so passes less air. it will get dirtier faster, and might be a problem if you let it get really dirty. its probably fine though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2023 23:28
|
|
|
lol internet. posted:Looking to by a Merv8 re-usable filter for furnace. My house uses 20x20x2 but I only see 20x20x1 for re-usable. Any reason why I can't use it? I guess jus clean it more often? As long as the airflow can pull it tightly to the face of the filter holder and there's no air leakage around, it should be fine.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2023 05:32
|
|
|
My downstairs A/C has developed a tradition of crapping out the day we go on vacation. Last year it was because the EPO switch for the air handler needed to be replaced. This year the air handler is fine but the compressor does not start. It's 7-8 years old now, and at the start of A/C season I have had to un-seize the fan motor once or twice with a sturdy thump to the motor hub, after which it is fine for the rest of the season. Tragically, this remedy did not work this time. I checked the breaker and disconnect block and they both seemed fine; breaker was not tripped (my Sense electrical monitor is also powered off the breaker so it would have stopped reporting in on a breaker trip) and the disconnect box fuse looked normal. I did not pull out the multimeter to check voltage at the disconnect box, since we were rushing to finish packing and leave when I noticed the system wasn't working. I didn't listen extremely closely to the compressor either, but I did not hear any obvious sound, i.e. no humming/buzzing or anything that indicated the motor was trying to start. I've already booked somebody to come out and take a look at it tomorrow once we're back home, but I am girding myself for the expense of having to replace the system. Assuming it's not just something simple like a start capacitor or relay, what am I looking at potentially replacing here? I had been planning to switch over to a heat pump when it came time to replace the system some years down the road, but if it's chosen this moment to die and force my hand, it would be good to get an idea of how much it's going to cost to replace the exterior unit, the interior evaporator, and I guess the air handler as well?
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2023 02:58
|
|
|
I've never heard of an EPO switch for an air handler in residential. What fan motor? Indoor fan or condenser fan? Either way, if it's physically stuck/sticky then you need to replace that. You don't have to guess about caps, you can test them and replace as necessary.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2023 13:56
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I've never heard of an EPO switch for an air handler in residential. he probably means the incredibly annoying fan compartment panel safety switch. the shitter on the right: 
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2023 22:19
|
|
|
I woke up yesterday to a house that was 83 degrees (Florida) and saw that the outside fan wouldn't start (was making a hum trying to start). Called an HVAC guy and he told me it was the capacitor. I switched that out and it started working again, but today it's doing the same thing again and my hot water is also not pumping from my electric tank heater. The AC fan will start intermittently but then stops again. When running, the air is cold and it's blowing fine, but it just won't start or run consistently. The hot water is lukewarm at best, feels like ground temp really. I checked the reset switch. I've done a full circuit board reset (off main, off singles, on main, on singles) but no improvement. Is this an electrical issue? We do get regular storms and strong lightning, but nothing else was damaged in the past few days to my knowledge. Could this be a fuse issue? I don't even know who to call since the HVAC guy did a full check and told me it was just the capacitor. Feels like I wasted $100 on that visit.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2023 01:53
|
|
|
Sounds like you have a voltage problem. I would call the power company. Does your electric stove/oven work fine when the hot water or ac won't go?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2023 02:25
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Sounds like you have a voltage problem. I would call the power company. Does your electric stove/oven work fine when the hot water or ac won't go? Stove works fine but now that you mention it, it did blow a temp regulator and overheat a few months back. Replaced the control panel and it works fine now but the top surface gets way hotter to touch when the oven is on, like hotter than you can safely touch. What do I say when I call them? Should I have an electrician check anything first? Should I check/replace breakers for those tomorrow? If it were the outside fuses bad, would the unit even start? It's currently running for maybe 15 minutes at a time then shutting off again, and the outside grates are hot to touch like they would be in mid-day sun. Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Aug 20, 2023 |
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2023 03:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 04:28 |
|
|
You can have voltage delivery problems and the fuses won't care at all, as its still under the current limit. Fuses are there to prevent things from catching fire and not much else.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2023 04:42
|
|