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SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Salt Fish posted:

Just wait until that table has firmware revisions.

So glad *The Industry* has abandoned steel cables as a way of controlling anything on a bicycle. Real wise long-term thinking right there.

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evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

I’d rather do 10mn of research and have perfect shifting forever than 10mn of loving around with shifting cables every loving month but you do you.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

evil_bunnY posted:

I’d rather do 10mn of research and have perfect shifting forever than 10mn of loving around with shifting cables every loving month but you do you.

Ten mewton neters?

e: if your bike has more than 7 tiny gears you may as well be riding a clown tricycle!

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires

VelociBacon posted:

Ten mewton neters?

That's way too much for a cable clamp bolt, no wonder they've had a bad experience with cable shifting

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

evil_bunnY posted:

I’d rather do 10mn of research and have perfect shifting forever than 10mn of loving around with shifting cables every loving month but you do you.

Are those cables made of elastic or something...?

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Stop using brake cables for your shifters.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Platystemon posted:

Stop using brake cables for your shifters.

The reverse is worse, but yeah

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Customer states bike does not shift. Customer observed oil dripping off shifter and rear mech.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Salt Fish posted:

Customer states bike does not shift. Customer observed oil dripping off shifter and rear mech.

https://velo.outsideonline.com/road/road-racing/first-ride-rotor-uno-hydraulic-drivetrain/

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012


Got super excited thinking this would be transferring power via a pump at the cranks and a turbine at the back wheel, clicked the link, realized immediately it was something far more pointless and stupid

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Slavvy posted:

Got super excited thinking this would be transferring power via a pump at the cranks and a turbine at the back wheel, clicked the link, realized immediately it was something far more pointless and stupid

People have done this but only as proofs of concept.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1_l87GACt8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuzRifvfQGg


I really want to see a bicycle with an electric transmission, though, like a diesel‐electric locomotive. It would synergise well with today’s battery‐electric bicycles, but that’s not the point. The point is to have a continuously variable transmission, even on a tandem bicycle. You could vary the resistance throughout each revolution of the crank, too, like oval chainrings that you can reshape at will.

Blackhawk
Nov 15, 2004

Platystemon posted:

I really want to see a bicycle with an electric transmission, though, like a diesel‐electric locomotive. It would synergise well with today’s battery‐electric bicycles, but that’s not the point. The point is to have a continuously variable transmission, even on a tandem bicycle. You could vary the resistance throughout each revolution of the crank, too, like oval chainrings that you can reshape at will.

This is a velomobile (more a pedal-car even than a velomobile) but it uses a pedal generator to power the wheels indirectly via an electrical drivetrain:

https://www.podbike.com/

Obviously there are downsides with such a system, primarily weight and efficiency. Weight because you basically have to have two e-bike motors (one motor, one generator) and efficiency because the mechanical-electrical-mechanical efficiency of such a system would always be lower than a normal chain-drive bicycle. The podbike is really an e-bike in name only as I don't believe you can drive it if the battery goes flat, the pedal-generator is more of a range extender and vehicle legislation avoider.

There are also actual mechanical bicycle CVTs: https://enviolo.com/

Again their downsides are weight and efficiency, still way heavier and noticeably less efficient than a chain drive system.

These types of systems, similar to gearboxes and internally geared hubs are most applicable to applications where longevity, reliability and low maintenance are desired and where weight and efficiency are less important, like commuter bikes in flat areas.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I just want a single speed shaft drive bike with a simple double triangle frame, no gonzo novelty bullshit, no electric anything, just a bike with literally no external moving parts bar the wheels and cranks

Blackhawk
Nov 15, 2004

Slavvy posted:

I just want a single speed shaft drive bike with a simple double triangle frame, no gonzo novelty bullshit, no electric anything, just a bike with literally no external moving parts bar the wheels and cranks

A single speed chain drive bike would be lighter and more efficient than shaft drive, probably nearly as maintenance-free if you put the chain in a fully enclosed chain case too.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Yeah cool man, I had never thought of that

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Or you could use a belt.

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass

Platystemon posted:

People have done this but only as proofs of concept.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1_l87GACt8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuzRifvfQGg


I really want to see a bicycle with an electric transmission, though, like a diesel‐electric locomotive. It would synergise well with today’s battery‐electric bicycles, but that’s not the point. The point is to have a continuously variable transmission, even on a tandem bicycle. You could vary the resistance throughout each revolution of the crank, too, like oval chainrings that you can reshape at will.

Almost there.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=Dg8oVR4k5Dk&feature=share

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
I was having a hard time getting a caliper aligned and finally I redid the rotor bolts which fixed it. The dealer manual says 2-4nM with the inclusion of tightening plates, but shows triangle bolts. These bolts are normal bolts and the plates are different shapes. I think they just bite into the threads. That torque seems super low to me, but it fixed the rubbing. Anyone seen this before?


edit: the front m-820 caliper doesn't rub but the banjo hits the spokes lol.. I haven't dug into that one yet.

Salt Fish fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Aug 8, 2023

Hotbod Handsomeface
Dec 28, 2009
I have a Surly Disc Trucker and I don't know how I can align the mechanical disc brakes properly.

I had noticed that I keep needing to adjust the brake pads in to keep the levers actuating away from the bar (as in the levers would be almost contacting the handlebar prior to adjustment). I can adjust the pads in/out individually with an adjustment screw and while doing that I noticed that the pads were not adjusting roughly evenly and were not wearing evenly. One side was wearing more than the other. This leads me to think that the brakes aren't aligned where they mount to the frame. The bike has TRP Spyre Type C brakes that are mounted to an adapter and then to the frame. It looks like I should loosen the brakes form the frame with the new pads adjusted all of the way out to make the brake assembly roughly align itself before I tighten to the frame. The issue is the adapter doesn't have that ability and I don't really have good access to the screws for the brake assembly because the frame is in the way. I'm also in a spot where one of the brake pads is very slightly contacting the disc on front and back. How can I get these things properly adjusted?

Key for images: Red is the adapter, Blue is the line where the screws for the housing goes and green is the individual pad adjustment point.



TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Hotbod Handsomeface posted:

I have a Surly Disc Trucker and I don't know how I can align the mechanical disc brakes properly.

I had noticed that I keep needing to adjust the brake pads in to keep the levers actuating away from the bar (as in the levers would be almost contacting the handlebar prior to adjustment). I can adjust the pads in/out individually with an adjustment screw and while doing that I noticed that the pads were not adjusting roughly evenly and were not wearing evenly. One side was wearing more than the other. This leads me to think that the brakes aren't aligned where they mount to the frame. The bike has TRP Spyre Type C brakes that are mounted to an adapter and then to the frame. It looks like I should loosen the brakes form the frame with the new pads adjusted all of the way out to make the brake assembly roughly align itself before I tighten to the frame. The issue is the adapter doesn't have that ability and I don't really have good access to the screws for the brake assembly because the frame is in the way. I'm also in a spot where one of the brake pads is very slightly contacting the disc on front and back. How can I get these things properly adjusted?

Key for images: Red is the adapter, Blue is the line where the screws for the housing goes and green is the individual pad adjustment point.





Are the frame’s flat-mount drillings not elongated? I find this hard to believe.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

That's the most insane brake adapter setup I've ever seen. Every part of it is different from industry standard?

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

looks like it's flat mount with TRP's 140mm -> 160mm adapter.


TobinHatesYou posted:

Are the frame’s flat-mount drillings not elongated? I find this hard to believe.

yeah, loosening the screws holding the adapter to the frame *should be* how you adjust this

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

VelociBacon posted:

That's the most insane brake adapter setup I've ever seen. Every part of it is different from industry standard?

Well I would say that the absolute worse are the things that clamp onto the chainstay to “convert” a bike with rim brakes to disk brakes.

There are a lot of horrors in the fossil record though.

kimbo305 posted:

Just stumbled into a dusty corner of the bike tech world.
When disc brakes first came out, Santana got on board with Hayes mounts, and added some proprietary adapters once post mount took off.
So this is Hayes to IS to Post, running an 8" rotor:


At some point, they went to a custom 10" rotor. I think this rotor is, but it's a custom Hayes to Post adapter:


The latest generation 10":

Because of the orientation of the post mount caliper, there's plenty of room under it for a big beefy adapter.

Their latest build now uses a flat mount caliper:

Still cable pull, notably. Because the FM caliper takes bolts from below, there's less metal supporting the caliper and holding it to the Hayes mount. I imagine it's all thought through, but weird to see so much investment sticking to such an old standard.


In digging around, I also found a custom Hayes to FM adapter:

Looks sketchy as hell in aluminum, but the seller says there's a 3d printed steel version now.

And this is the first time since I've started paying attention to standards that I've ever seen any actual IS calipers:


Maybe because IS is a common word, or maybe cuz the standards moved too fast? But there's not many pics of IS calipers on IS mounts.

some_admin
Oct 11, 2011

Grimey Drawer
Hey I have couple of stupid bike questions, I got a hold of a 36v 250watt 16” hub motor (Dapu) & battery/etc, from a cargo bike.

is it feasible/useful to buy a cheap folding bike and put this on the front wheel? I’m looking at a Dahon and a couple of other folders.
Folders are the only adult size bikes I’m seeing with 16” wheels , except for recumbents and I’m not going there. (I live semi urban and you’ll just get run over)

Is it feasible/possible to DIY take the hub motor out lace it into a larger wheel so I don’t have to deal with twitchy 16” folding bike geometry?

I have time, not much budget though.

I’m pretty handy, (build things, have tools, garage) but have not really messed with spokes other than tightening them and slightly trueing a wheel.
I kind of have the feeling that this could be sort of low budget entry to e-bike , but I’ll end up with a very unsatisfying riding experience because of the folder geometry.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name
Disc trucker is a really loving weird frame on which to put flat mount poo poo, what the hell Surly

a loathsome bird
Aug 15, 2004

SimonSays posted:

Disc trucker is a really loving weird frame on which to put flat mount poo poo, what the hell Surly

My Midnight Special has exactly the same set up and it's been fine :shrug:
You should be able to loosen the bolts on the frame (not the ones you circled in blue on the adapter) and have enough play to align the caliper. Back the pads out all the way before you do this so that you have a base point to work from, and then once aligned you can adjust the pads as close as you want them.

Also rereading your post- if your brake levers were touching the bars before they engaged, that's typically a brake cable adjustment not a pad adjustment.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

My straggler has IS mounts, it's weird that the trucker has road bike style flat mounts when it's basically an MTB imo

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

a loathsome bird posted:

My Midnight Special has exactly the same set up and it's been fine :shrug:
You should be able to loosen the bolts on the frame (not the ones you circled in blue on the adapter) and have enough play to align the caliper. Back the pads out all the way before you do this so that you have a base point to work from, and then once aligned you can adjust the pads as close as you want them.

Also rereading your post- if your brake levers were touching the bars before they engaged, that's typically a brake cable adjustment not a pad adjustment.

A Midnight Special doesn't have the same intended purpose as a Long Haul Trucker, is my point.

E:

Slavvy posted:

My straggler has IS mounts, it's weird that the trucker has road bike style flat mounts when it's basically an MTB imo

This is exactly what's weird, thanks for putting it succinctly.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb


Banjo hitting the spokes. I think the rim is just too wide for this brake caliper. I dished the wheel which was dished out about 1mm (ironically in the direction that mitigated the rubbing), and I trued the wheel while I was at it but it still rubs The rotor isn't rubbing at all in the caliper, so I'm stuck. Hopefully I don't need a new wheel set, because I just installed advent-x on this and I would be stuck buying 10 speed HG hubs... I don't know. Any ideas?

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



You could try shiming the rotor out and thus having the caliper more outboard to align with it, assuming you have the wiggle room. How much more clearance do you need?

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Even 1 mm would be fine. The wheel actually rotates past the banjo but it goes "tink tink tink tink"

edit: okay I didn't know about rotor shims before this should do it!

Salt Fish fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Aug 9, 2023

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
You could use this as an opportunity to get a rotor of large diameter and a matching spacer for the caliper. Further from the hub, the spokes are closer to the centerline.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Unfortunately surly says the max rotor size for this fork is 180. I don't know if that's because larger rotors didn't exist back then, but my understanding is I shouldn't exceed that at risk of snapping it? Although it is steel...

edit:
This is a moonlit swamp 2014 model: https://surlybikes.com/bikes/legacy/krampus_2016 you have to click the green color swatch to see it but anyway it says

quote:

"Brake Compatibility
Andy's Apple Red, Dark Black and Pickled Beet Red:
51mm I.S. disc caliper mounts, 180mm max rotor size


Moonlit Swamp and Black Matte:
51mm IS disc mounts frame and fork"

edit2: Moonlit Swamp and Black Matte:
"TIG-welded custom tapered butted 4130 CroMoly, 100–120mm suspension corrected, 1-1/8˝ steerer tube, 203mm disc brake clearance"

hm actually maybe I can go up to a 203!


edit3: the local shop gifted me a IS 203 front mount plate which apparently is such a weird part that they don't have a computer entry for it.

Salt Fish fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Aug 9, 2023

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

some_admin posted:

Hey I have couple of stupid bike questions, I got a hold of a 36v 250watt 16” hub motor (Dapu) & battery/etc, from a cargo bike.

is it feasible/useful to buy a cheap folding bike and put this on the front wheel? I’m looking at a Dahon and a couple of other folders.
Folders are the only adult size bikes I’m seeing with 16” wheels , except for recumbents and I’m not going there. (I live semi urban and you’ll just get run over)
Yes. Does the motor use a torque arm or a slotted washer? Is the wheel disc or rim brake?

quote:

Is it feasible/possible to DIY take the hub motor out lace it into a larger wheel so I don’t have to deal with twitchy 16” folding bike geometry?

I have time, not much budget though.

I’m pretty handy, (build things, have tools, garage) but have not really messed with spokes other than tightening them and slightly trueing a wheel.

Yes. You have to have measurements for the hub flange dimensions and rim dimensions, and with those you can use a spoke length calculator to figure out what lengths to buy. You have to be sure on what you need to get the right length. If you’re lucky, both the hub and the rim will be in the calculator’s library of known parts.

Better ($$) spoke turning tools can save you lots of tedium, but building a wheel is mostly the longform version of truing one.

Hotbod Handsomeface
Dec 28, 2009

Hotbod Handsomeface posted:

I have a Surly Disc Trucker and I don't know how I can align the mechanical disc brakes properly.

Ok turns out I'm just a fool. The mounting point to the frame are slots. I just didn't loosen them enough to notice. So I did my best to get things aligned there. What worked was actually going through the process with everything adjusted out and then seeing that that ends up closer to one pad. Then I loosened again and adjusted the other pad in towards the disc and redid the process so I'd end up with the pads roughly equal when I backed them out if that makes sense. So now each one is adjusted closer to the same amount. It's a little finicky but it seems close enough. I'm going to try a ride in Friday.

The reason that I didn't notice the frame mount were slots was because the threads in the adapter were always tight feeling. So I thought it was like a tight fitting hole because I was not feeling anything really loosen as the screws were backing out. Thanks for mentioning that because it helped me realize that I should go back and double check my assumptions.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Bingo bango




203 in the front, 160 in the rear.

I had a mother fucker of a time getting the rotors aligned. I finally put a .25mm washer between the IS adapter and the caliper body to raise it up a tiny bit and it instantly aligned on the first try. I probably spent 5 hours with shims and a flashlight trying to get it to align over 3 days it was pretty brutal, but I took down a hill I never climbed before. Its so steep that your front wheel comes up off the ground if you try to stay seated.

Advent-X is really cool but the shifter is such trash. Both levers push in the same direction and they get in the way of each other. My hand is exhausted from an hour of riding. They need to invent a shimano/sram -> advent-x pull ratio adapter made from two gears that you put inline with it or something... its that bad. The shifting itself and the gearing you get are insane though and the price is basically unbelievably good. Overall I would recommend it.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Salt Fish posted:

Advent-X is really cool but the shifter is such trash. Both levers push in the same direction and they get in the way of each other. My hand is exhausted from an hour of riding. They need to invent a shimano/sram -> advent-x pull ratio adapter made from two gears that you put inline with it or something...
Microshift is smart and probably knows about Shiftmate ratio converters, but I bet one of them would work as you desire.

http://www.jtekengineering.com/shiftmate/shiftmate-compatibility-charts-choices/

Otoh, maybe this is something Jtek would want to solve.

Hotbod Handsomeface posted:

Then I loosened again and adjusted the other pad in towards the disc and redid the process so I'd end up with the pads roughly equal when I backed them out if that makes sense.

Yeah, I’ve had that happen, where torquing from a bit tight to adequately tight shifts the caliper a bit. And you just offset the caliper the same distance to cancel out the shift.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Salt Fish posted:

They need to invent a shimano/sram -> advent-x pull ratio adapter made from two gears that you put inline with it or something...

There are adapters like this made for some combinations, but Advent-X’s ratio of 1.1:1 is so very close to Shimano’s eleven‐speed mountain ratio of 1.12:1 that it may just work.

A tenth of a millimetre offsides on the largest and smallest cogs? That’s within tolerances.

Platystemon fucked around with this message at 12:31 on Aug 10, 2023

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Platystemon posted:

There are adapters like this made for some combinations, but Advent-X’s ratio of 1.1:1 is so very close to Shimano’s eleven‐speed mountain ratio of 1.12:1 that it may just work.

A tenth of a millimetre offsides on the largest and smallest cogs? That’s within tolerances.

I think that’s more than the difference between SRAM and Shimano 11spd cassette widths? And those are compatible enough.

Was Advent-X just saying they weren’t compatible and hoping everyone would take their word for it? Genius.

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Salt Fish posted:

Bingo bango




203 in the front, 160 in the rear.

I had a mother fucker of a time getting the rotors aligned. I finally put a .25mm washer between the IS adapter and the caliper body to raise it up a tiny bit and it instantly aligned on the first try. I probably spent 5 hours with shims and a flashlight trying to get it to align over 3 days it was pretty brutal, but I took down a hill I never climbed before. Its so steep that your front wheel comes up off the ground if you try to stay seated.

Advent-X is really cool but the shifter is such trash. Both levers push in the same direction and they get in the way of each other. My hand is exhausted from an hour of riding. They need to invent a shimano/sram -> advent-x pull ratio adapter made from two gears that you put inline with it or something... its that bad. The shifting itself and the gearing you get are insane though and the price is basically unbelievably good. Overall I would recommend it.

This makes me more confident that putting 203f/180r on my straggler isn't going to kill me or my bike

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