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Televisio Frankus
Jun 8, 2010


Just got this in the mail.

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Queadlunn
Dec 10, 2005

Yak Deculture!
Fallen Rib
Just got a weird kit, it's been a long time since I built a Daban kit.




It's a lot of kit, this is the Daban 8814, a bootleg of the MG Astray Red Frame and the Metal Build Astray Powered Red Frame and 150 Gerbera Straight. The Metal Build isn't a kit, so this is some kind of derivative kit but still working pretty well so far?

Only got the Gerbera Straight part done so far, it's the real reason I got the kit since the Metal Build for this damned thing is so hard to even find.


(still in 1/100)

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

god trying to hand paint a nice even white layer loving blows.

Sazabi
Feb 15, 2014

A-MA-ZON!!
Starting off a few days behind and with higher asperations than I can reasonably accomplish. But at least I'm finally getting them out of the pile.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

SD kits are so tiny. This was a gift from the gf, the 00 gundam. One of the biggest pains was the head. Couldnt glue it without embedding the face part first but that would make the face super hard to paint so I just didnt bother :v. Came out neat though despite the whites being such a pita.

kirbysuperstar
Nov 11, 2012

Let the fools who stand before us be destroyed by the power you and I possess.


here comes the boy

Tergaso
Mar 4, 2007

My God! Wooden eels! Surface! Surface!
Zowart Heavy complete. A very handsome kit and a quick build like the other WFM kits I've built. The connections between the arms and the chest were a little wonky, and I put it on an action base because it wasn't standing too well unaided. I'd love to build an MG version, but I doubt that'll ever come out.



mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




And here's my magnificent maniac. RIP Sophie.



There's something weird with whatever effect they added to the box cover. It does not want to be well-lit.

Neddy Seagoon
Oct 12, 2012

"Hi Everybody!"

Tergaso posted:

Zowart Heavy complete. A very handsome kit and a quick build like the other WFM kits I've built. The connections between the arms and the chest were a little wonky, and I put it on an action base because it wasn't standing too well unaided. I'd love to build an MG version, but I doubt that'll ever come out.





I had the same issue with the shoulders on mine as well, they like to pop out of the socket if you play with it. Mine stands unaided just fine though.

Moai Ou
May 18, 2004

WE LOVE SHOOTING GAMES!


Fun Shoe

Moai Ou posted:


Next I'm gonna bang out a couple easy ones:


HG PR Ambassador Gundam & Gold Top Petit'gguy

Two more done!



The Gundam Base Limited Gold Top Petit'gguy




PR Ambassador Gundam

And now to start on this:



A box with three different Build Fighter kits: Low Visibility versions of the Core Gundam, Core Gundam II & Alus Core Gundam.

Captain Invictus
Apr 5, 2005

Try reading some manga!


Clever Betty
you ever have one of those moments where you knew, you'd hosed up


this, this is the connection for the entire backpack for Heavyarms Custom.

it is on step 2 of the torso, literally the second step of the entire build, which I missed as I was getting started with the build.


so I got to dismantle the ENTIRE TORSO to get it back in there


however, some good came of all that, because while I was in there, I was able to pop out the snapped shoulder connection from earlier, and while it might not be super sturdy, there's still enough of a peg in there to plug the shoulder onto. handy, because I can't for the life of me find where I put my pin vice, which is understandable since I haven't used it in at least a decade. so, at least the main body of Heavyarms Custom is completed, and hosed if I'm doing the extremely tedious process of building 4x identical giant gatling guns, 2x identical leg braces and 2x gigantic missile launcher assemblies right now. still, looking real good as-is, I think I like the original Heavyarms colors for the Custom better than the dark blue/dark gray/teal version.



also, why is everyone posting screenshots of their monitor with the time on it, just noting when you started/finished building?

BisbyWorl
Jan 12, 2019

Knowledge is pain plus observation.


Captain Invictus posted:

also, why is everyone posting screenshots of their monitor with the time on it, just noting when you started/finished building?

For Backlogust, as proof you're actually starting it this month and aren't just posting old pictures to try and score some free kits.

Captain Invictus
Apr 5, 2005

Try reading some manga!


Clever Betty
gotcha

kirbysuperstar
Nov 11, 2012

Let the fools who stand before us be destroyed by the power you and I possess.


A satisfying lad

Nullkigan
Jul 3, 2009
For those of you have done custom LEDs on a kit, what size lights and wires have you used?

I'm thinking 3 mm would probably work for most kits except maybe the smaller HGs where an actual SMD size (say 0805?) might be needed.

I've had trouble stripping AWG26 sized wires reliably. Think I'd get away with something more manageable lilke AWG22 or even AWG16? (I plan to use somethng like a JST connector to an external battery or 5v usb supply I guess)

boz
Oct 16, 2005
Kit number 2 built




I totally get it now. After finishing I went to touch the leg and try posing and the tiny clip with the huge responsibility of locking the big rear end leg flew off. Found it and got it back in and now it falls out instantly. Barely managed any kind of pose. I get what they were trying to do but this thing feels like it's held together by prayers.

Next up: Bootleg MG Phantom Zaku

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

Nullkigan posted:

For those of you have done custom LEDs on a kit, what size lights and wires have you used?

I'm thinking 3 mm would probably work for most kits except maybe the smaller HGs where an actual SMD size (say 0805?) might be needed.

I've had trouble stripping AWG26 sized wires reliably. Think I'd get away with something more manageable lilke AWG22 or even AWG16? (I plan to use somethng like a JST connector to an external battery or 5v usb supply I guess)

For wires thinner than what I can strip with my networking crimpers (22 or 24awg, I don't remember) I've had best results just stripping it with my fingernails. Use your index finger to push it into your thumbnail and pull. If that doesn't work, get bigger wires or smaller strippers, but your nails are less likely to accidentally cut half the stands of wire or rip them apart.

Prof. Banks
Apr 22, 2015

Computer lab day! Time to spend 45 minutes trying to load pokemon.com!


Finished! I don't know how people build so fast. It takes me like half an hour to put together a leg.


This thing is hard as hell to pose.


AEUG Mk-II is next.


I thought about doing the RG GP01 Full Burnern, but got scared when I looked at all the runners.

hostess with the Moltres
May 15, 2013
Built a Bandai 1/20 scopedog and it’s very cool looking, really detailed, but it m disappointed by how little articulation it has. It can’t even do the iconic holding the rifle with two hands shooting pose! But it is satisfying to finally built it after it sat in my closet for a couple years.

Diet Poison
Jan 20, 2008

LICK MY ASS


Thorn down. Not a fan of the brown plastic, it really showcases my shortcomings in the area of snippin' poo poo off without making big white marks. I wonder if I buy a brown gundam marker if I can cover them up without it looking too obvious.

Next is supposed to be the Ur but I think they're like 75% the same kit, right? If so I might skip the Ur for now.

Arc Hammer
Mar 4, 2013

Got any deathsticks?

hostess with the Moltres posted:

Built a Bandai 1/20 scopedog and it’s very cool looking, really detailed, but it m disappointed by how little articulation it has. It can’t even do the iconic holding the rifle with two hands shooting pose! But it is satisfying to finally built it after it sat in my closet for a couple years.

I'm waiting for that new Scopedog model to come out before I grab one. It's too good a design to be held back by older engineering.

hostess with the Moltres
May 15, 2013
Part of me feels bad for getting a lot of a design I’ve just spent so much time building but seeing it in action in VOTOMS makes me want to pose it.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Diet Poison posted:

Thorn down. Not a fan of the brown plastic, it really showcases my shortcomings in the area of snippin' poo poo off without making big white marks. I wonder if I buy a brown gundam marker if I can cover them up without it looking too obvious.

Next is supposed to be the Ur but I think they're like 75% the same kit, right? If so I might skip the Ur for now.

It's okay, I have an Ur in progress.

Snipping. Are you doing a single or double cut? In a double cut, you cut sprue to free the part and then cut the part free. This makes it easier to get a properly flat, neat cut that will need less clean up and be less obvious.

You may just need a better set of nippers but get the marker. Brown is a good color for panel lining.

Neddy Seagoon
Oct 12, 2012

"Hi Everybody!"

mllaneza posted:

It's okay, I have an Ur in progress.

Snipping. Are you doing a single or double cut? In a double cut, you cut sprue to free the part and then cut the part free. This makes it easier to get a properly flat, neat cut that will need less clean up and be less obvious.

You may just need a better set of nippers but get the marker. Brown is a good color for panel lining.

Panel-lining really helps when you've got a kit that's predominantly a single colour too.

Dr Christmas
Apr 24, 2010

Berninating the one percent,
Berninating the Wall St.
Berninating all the people
In their high rise penthouses!
🔥😱🔥🔫👴🏻
I’m pretty much done with my MG Epyon, and I just have to put all big pieces together, which I am waiting to do with the person who got it for me for Christmas.

It’s my first MG, though I’ve done some RGs before, and the first time I’ve used dry transfer decals. I made some mistakes, you can see on the wings and legs. The very first of these decals I ever tried was wrong, putting a stripe that should have gone on the upper shin segment on the lower one, and the length was slightly different, so I had to switch things around to make sure the were evenly wrongly distributed, which I still kind of failed at as some of it got shifted around.


Those I could hide in the back, but I can't do that with this mistake on the chest here:


I noticed the gates seemed less hidden than the other kits I’ve built since I started doing this a year and a half ago, and I wonder if that's a consequence of this being from the early 2010s. Ijust used some cheap nippers and a knife that came with this kit, and some of the nubs don't look great.

I’m going to order a base, and I’m torn between also ordering water slide decals and replacing some of the mistakes, or leaving them for posterity. Like kintsugi, if kintsugi was just the potter messing up when he made it the first time

Dr Christmas fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Aug 10, 2023

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe

hostess with the Moltres posted:

Part of me feels bad for getting a lot of a design I’ve just spent so much time building but seeing it in action in VOTOMS makes me want to pose it.

Did you swoosh it around on the table while making chweeeeeeeeee noises

Captain Invictus
Apr 5, 2005

Try reading some manga!


Clever Betty
good lord, it's finally finished.


pros:
- THAS A LOT O GUNS
- Can stand up while fully equipped, even without the leg braces!
- Looks great colorwise, I like the original style more than the EW version.

cons:
- Can stand up, but the arms are not strong enough to hold up the twin gatlings! bullshit, should have included stronger polycaps for that!
- I hope you like repetitive builds because those shoulder launchers are extremely so, as well as the quad twin gatlings, of course.

BisbyWorl
Jan 12, 2019

Knowledge is pain plus observation.




One more HG, then an RG I've had in my backlog for like a full year now, and then I'm done.

Dreqqus
Feb 21, 2013

BAMF!
I missed the start of the game and am too many kits in to start counting now, lol.

I put together the Dagger L HG from seed and it was a joy. What are some other great grunt type kits?

Arc Hammer
Mar 4, 2013

Got any deathsticks?
The GM GM from the Build line.

Diet Poison
Jan 20, 2008

LICK MY ASS

mllaneza posted:

Snipping. Are you doing a single or double cut? In a double cut, you cut sprue to free the part and then cut the part free. This makes it easier to get a properly flat, neat cut that will need less clean up and be less obvious.
In my experience this hasn't been making a lick of difference. I double-cut every time the connection is more than one of those hair's-width ones because I saw someone once said it makes a difference due to how the stress moves through the plastic or some poo poo like that which sounded like there was science behind it (it has been nearly a decade since my materials science classes lol) but sometimes I'll double-cut one part and then single-cut its identical twin and get just as good if not better results with the single-snip. I think I probably just need a new nipper. I'm still using the entry-level one I've been using since my second kit; its sharpness is probably really diminished at this point and it's probably time to invest in a decent single-blade one.

Nullkigan
Jul 3, 2009
The Windam, Leo, and maybe Graze are all meant to be pretty good and recent-ish grunt kits as well. Not quite the no-stickers level of the Dagger, but the Windam at least only really uses them for the highlights on the shield and backpack.

For something more left field, I remember the Gernsback (and Arbalest, but that's not a grunt) high grades from Full Metal Panic have fun builds. The way the legs build up to avoid seam and part lines is something I'm sad we don't see in Gundam kits. They're a tiny bit more complicated than reglar grunts, but unfortunately like twice the cost because they're not Gundam. Also out of print so that may jack up the price even more.

Neddy Seagoon
Oct 12, 2012

"Hi Everybody!"

Dreqqus posted:

I missed the start of the game and am too many kits in to start counting now, lol.

I put together the Dagger L HG from seed and it was a joy. What are some other great grunt type kits?

Nullkigan posted:

The Windam, Leo, and maybe Graze are all meant to be pretty good and recent-ish grunt kits as well. Not quite the no-stickers level of the Dagger, but the Windam at least only really uses them for the highlights on the shield and backpack.

For something more left field, I remember the Gernsback (and Arbalest, but that's not a grunt) high grades from Full Metal Panic have fun builds. The way the legs build up to avoid seam and part lines is something I'm sad we don't see in Gundam kits. They're a tiny bit more complicated than reglar grunts, but unfortunately like twice the cost because they're not Gundam. Also out of print so that may jack up the price even more.

Get the 1/72 HG Bunyip Boomerang out of the Kyoukai Senki line while they're still around. It's a fantastic desk toy. Otherwise any of the grunt kits out of the G-Witch line are apparently quite good. I've only built the Heavy Zowort myself, but there haven't really been any dud kits (aside from sales-wise) in the line.

Tin Tim
Jun 4, 2012

Live by the pun - Die by the pun

Diet Poison posted:

In my experience this hasn't been making a lick of difference. I double-cut every time the connection is more than one of those hair's-width ones because I saw someone once said it makes a difference due to how the stress moves through the plastic or some poo poo like that which sounded like there was science behind it (it has been nearly a decade since my materials science classes lol) but sometimes I'll double-cut one part and then single-cut its identical twin and get just as good if not better results with the single-snip. I think I probably just need a new nipper. I'm still using the entry-level one I've been using since my second kit; its sharpness is probably really diminished at this point and it's probably time to invest in a decent single-blade one.
Upgrading to a decent single-blade will for sure reduce the stress marks you are seeing and will result in cleaner cuts overall. Imo the MT106 from Mr. Hobby is a solid medium price point option and my personal work horse. However my initial reaction to the pic you posted was that you probably also should let sanding tools enter into your hobby life. Like I'm obviously going by incomplete information but I feel that every single mark I see on your kit could be cleaned up with a small set of sanding tools (I prefer sponges) going from 1k grit up to 2.5k. God Hand sells a bag of those sponges with a bunch of grit sizes but there are other manufacturers too (Dspiae for instance). Sanding will add a bit more time and effort to your builds but imo it is very much worth it in the end. Glass files are also great tools but I feel it's better to first get some skill with the classic way of sanding before you combine it with more modern options.


In other news I'm handling some powerful robo cheeks atm :butt:

wdarkk
Oct 26, 2007

Friends: Protected
World: Saved
Crablettes: Eaten

wdarkk posted:


Try Age Magnum completed, next up this P-Bandai Zogok.


Got that done too.


The forearm extenders are a little weird, and I'm not sure the red marking stickers really work on the green segments, but it's still pretty cool.

Vayeate and Mercurius set up next.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Tin Tim posted:

. Imo the MT106 from Mr. Hobby is a solid medium price point option and my personal work horse. *snip* God Hand sells a bag of those sponges with a bunch of grit sizes but there are other manufacturers too (Dspiae for instance). Sanding will add a bit more time and effort to your builds but imo it is very much worth it in the end. Glass files are also great tools but I feel it's better to first get some skill with the classic way of sanding before you combine it with more modern options.

I"ve tried the MrHobby MT106's, and they're detectably, but not significantly better than the Stedi MS-106. They're both in the ~$30 range. Sadly, I don't have the Dispae 3.0 review in yet. If you don't want to make that sort of leap, the Stedi MS-100's are $17, and they are what I send people who are still using cheap/nasty nippers. They are life changing when it comes to model making. The MS100's are double blade nippers. I am still not convinced single blade is superior.

I try to avoid paying the hobby tax on disposable materials. The glass files I use are $7 for a set of 4 from the nail section on amazon. They work great. Files, let you preserve sharp edges better than sponges do.

But if you want sponges... You can spend $12 on a pack of whomever makes it for the hobby market, and get one sanding pads worth. Or spend $12 on something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094NGG3M...07-f38ff10925e0 And get a near lifetime supply.

*shakes fist* Don't pay the hobby tax!

Diet Poison
Jan 20, 2008

LICK MY ASS

Tin Tim posted:

Upgrading to a decent single-blade will for sure reduce the stress marks you are seeing and will result in cleaner cuts overall. Imo the MT106 from Mr. Hobby is a solid medium price point option and my personal work horse. However my initial reaction to the pic you posted was that you probably also should let sanding tools enter into your hobby life. Like I'm obviously going by incomplete information but I feel that every single mark I see on your kit could be cleaned up with a small set of sanding tools (I prefer sponges) going from 1k grit up to 2.5k. God Hand sells a bag of those sponges with a bunch of grit sizes but there are other manufacturers too (Dspiae for instance). Sanding will add a bit more time and effort to your builds but imo it is very much worth it in the end. Glass files are also great tools but I feel it's better to first get some skill with the classic way of sanding before you combine it with more modern options.

Thanks for the recs, I've filed them away in my secure filing system aka the back of a dog-of-the-day calendar page and placed beside my laptop for future research.
I do use a glass file which I'm quite happy with in terms of being able to make my nub marks as smooth as the dickens but they don't seem to do poo poo for getting rid of white marks any bigger than a pinprick. Do you get better results doing multiple passes from low to high? I read these are basically stress marks that go into the plastic so filing isn't really gonna do poo poo if the mark is in the flat part itself.
Honestly I just keep telling myself I'm gonna come back and paint all these guys eventually which is why I'm not too fussed about little imperfections as long as I'm not gouging out the plastic. It's why I also don't usually apply the stickers, on master grades anyway. I mean, I'm never actually going to, but I tell myself I will.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Captain Invictus posted:

cons:
- Can stand up, but the arms are not strong enough to hold up the twin gatlings! bullshit, should have included stronger polycaps for that!
- I hope you like repetitive builds because those shoulder launchers are extremely so, as well as the quad twin gatlings, of course.

Clear nail polish can tighten up a polyp's fit. Do a layer, let it dry, test it, repeat as needed.

The advice I've seen for repetitive builds is to do one between each major component; L Arm, boring bit, R Arm, boring bit, etc.

Tin Tim
Jun 4, 2012

Live by the pun - Die by the pun

Nerobro posted:

*shakes fist* Don't pay the hobby tax!
Yeah that's a fair and important point! I for sure paid the tax on a few things when I was getting back into the hobby. The things I mentioned where mostly due to being easily available internationally, quick to pick up, and used by me.

I never heard of the Stedi MS-106 but it is indeed slightly cheaper than what I got the MT106 for so I'll keep that in mind if the nipper gets worn out.

Nerobro posted:

Sadly, I don't have the Dispae 3.0 review in yet.
I use these for my second cut or when I want to be more precise/careful in general. I feel they cut a bit flatter and are better than the MT106 overall but also not by a huge margin. I think the biggest difference I see is on soft plastic like ABS or PVC.

Nerobro posted:

Files, let you preserve sharp edges better than sponges do.
For sure but they also damage round shapes and can leave scratches when you're not careful with the egdes. You're also more limited when it comes to their dimensions. I feel sponges/soft boards are the all-purpose tool that gets you by before you eventually combine them with files depending on the needs of the part. I personally had to get used to glass files and their cutting strength when I got into them so I figured it's a good idea to have some general sanding experience as a base :v:

Nerobro posted:

But if you want sponges... You can spend $12 on a pack of whomever makes it for the hobby market, and get one sanding pads worth. Or spend $12 on something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094NGG3M...07-f38ff10925e0 And get a near lifetime supply.
This is something I'm 100% on board with. I don't think that it's a waste to get your initial pads from the hobby market (at reasonable prices) but once you decided to stick with it I highly recommend to buy large pads like these that you just cut down. I'm still using the Dspiae set I bought at the beginning but once I'm through with it I'll go with cutting my own pads for sure.

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Asteroid Alert
Oct 24, 2012

BINGO!

Asteroid Alert posted:




This was a nice kit to build. Quite a few decals to put, but the end result is nice. The undergate engineering is also a stroke of genius, especially for the shiny parts.

Up next is the HG Aerial




Aaaand we're done with the aerial.

Decals were nice and it was a breeze to panel line. Definitely feels like a modern kit.

Next up:

RG Justice Gundam

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