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Spanish Manlove posted:The only thing I don't like about the GW handles is that I only have one of them, so it's tough to batch paint, and it's tough to paint the rims Yeah I also currently only have one, I only ever batch up to 5 models so the swapping isn't too bad but I'd like some more. For base rims I have a cork collection that I blutac the minis to for rim painting at the end of the painting progress.
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Aug 8, 2023 16:21
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  Another fyreslayer. I did this guy in a batch of 3, but I need to build and paint the other 2 heads. I also think I finally figured out a solid method for getting decent skin in a reasonable amount of time using the airbrush, and then adding a few small highlights with the brush. It cuts the painting time down from ~1 hour per model to ~45 minutes per model. Also adding a few more details here and there, such as increasing the highlights on the beards and adding yellow to the burning parts of the axes.
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Aug 8, 2023 16:37
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Shoehead posted:Oh the op mentioned popping a layer of gloss over areas you wanna save. So say for example these warning stripes I want to do on the shoulders? I'd coat them in varnish, let them dry, and if I gently caress it up I can wipe it down with isopropyl without stripping anything beneath the varnish? Am I interpreting that right? Isopropyl will strip varnish off. You could in theory go very gentle with the IPA and you might be able to get the overlying paint off before you eat through the varnish into the underlying layers - the varnish acts as a sacrificial coat in this way. The "saving my work" with a coat of varnish trick mainly works when you're about to use a different medium with a different solvent (I.e oil or enamel paint with min). Regarding your paint question, what primer are you using? It's actually quite unusual to have paint rub off plastic minis in that way. It's usually a problem with metal as paint to metal doesn't adhere very well. Paint to plastic is usually a very strong bond and won't abrade unless your layers are really thin - and your paint application is on the thicker side.
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Aug 8, 2023 18:20
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ChubbyChecker posted:
This is a strange way to use landspeeders, but you do you.
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Aug 8, 2023 18:22
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Verisimilidude posted:
That contrast is so great it's making me ask questions about doing a Salamanders successor chapter.
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Aug 8, 2023 19:26
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Z the IVth posted:
Vallejo black and Grey. Done it with both so far, with Citadel paint Shoehead fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Aug 8, 2023 |
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Aug 8, 2023 21:31
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Do any of the Vallejo basing pastes match up reasonably well with either of the Agrellan texture paints? I've got like close to 2k points based with that stuff and don't want to keep buying it but also don't want to have newer guys have significantly different looking bases. Cracking doesn't matter if that's a factor.
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Aug 8, 2023 22:03
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EdsTeioh posted:Do any of the Vallejo basing pastes match up reasonably well with either of the Agrellan texture paints? I've got like close to 2k points based with that stuff and don't want to keep buying it but also don't want to have newer guys have significantly different looking bases. Cracking doesn't matter if that's a factor. Get some artists medium/fine/sand grain gel (Winsor and Newton do some) and mix it with Zandri Dust to give you a very good approximation of Agrellan. Shoehead posted:Vallejo black and Grey. Done it with both so far, with Citadel paint I have not used the regular Vallejo primer before - I have some but it jammed my airbrush regularly so I gave up. I use Vallejo Mecha through an airbrush which is fine but my usual favourite is Halfords primer which has a matte, toothed finish.
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Aug 8, 2023 22:29
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EdsTeioh posted:Do any of the Vallejo basing pastes match up reasonably well with either of the Agrellan texture paints? I've got like close to 2k points based with that stuff and don't want to keep buying it but also don't want to have newer guys have significantly different looking bases. Cracking doesn't matter if that's a factor. vallejo brown earth paste is a pretty close color match. if the color is still unacceptably dissimilar, you can paint it with matching regular paints. it looks like VMC brown sand or citadel balor brown are good matches.
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Aug 9, 2023 01:10
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Hey guys genuine question, why would i ever prime any character grey or black, when contrast paints and paints in general look nicer and more vibrant when primed white? It seems like my ability to do any light colors is destroyed when i prime anything dark and its more work... Looking at videos online, it seems like the main benefit of priming black is that it gives you more avility to control how bright or saturated certain areas are compared to others (e.g. concept art look) but if either ways youre gonna have to give the base colors coat, it seems like its just more work? Maybe im being an indiot i dunno.
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Aug 9, 2023 05:10
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Bucnasti posted:I really loved Mecha Matte until I bought a second bottle and it gummed up my airbrush and was unsprayable. Bought some AK Ultra Matte instead and I've had no problems, gunna have to buy another bottle soon. My bottle of AK Ultra Matte was barely matte at all, no matter how thoroughly I agitated it. Getting hit with a combo of that and their Buff n Rub equivalents being entirely lackluster put me off the brand for good. I guess what I'm getting at here is whoever figures out how to make a consistent acrylic varnish is going to be absurdly rich.
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Aug 9, 2023 05:18
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Al-Saqr posted:Hey guys genuine question, why would i ever prime any character grey or black, when contrast paints and paints in general look nicer and more vibrant when primed white? It seems like my ability to do any light colors is destroyed when i prime anything dark and its more work... It is less work to paint a mini white and then hit it with contrast paints that's true. It is more work to prime a mini black and layer up all the various different ways, this may or may not include a zenithal prime depending on your desired workflow. This really comes down to what combination of effort:result you are looking for. And that is all before you factor in learned skill and speed of course, for example I am not painting this dwarf in 1 hour. Possibly I could closely recreate this with maybe 4-5 hours? Hampered by me not having an airbrush but also Verisimilidude has undoubtedly worked hard to level up their skills such that they can paint 3-4x faster than me (easily) without considering the airbrush ownership. Verisimilidude posted:
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Aug 9, 2023 05:57
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Al-Saqr posted:Hey guys genuine question, why would i ever prime any character grey or black, when contrast paints and paints in general look nicer and more vibrant when primed white? It seems like my ability to do any light colors is destroyed when i prime anything dark and its more work... White primer is great for contrast style paints, but then the drawback is that you need to be extremely precise when painting; there's no dark recesses to hide where two colors meet, so any sloppy work is going to be immediately obvious. That's why zenithal and grisaille style undercoats are the go-to for contrast paints. They keep your highlights bright, give you deep, natural looking shadows that also help hide your mistakes and ease transitions between colors, and they push the overall depth and contrast of the model so it's not just all bright colors. As far as priming all black, you'd want to do that if you're painting OSL, or if the majority of your model is going to be painted with true metallics. And some people just prefer it, and don't mind taking the time to build up brighter highlights. And gray primer is good for models that are going to be primarily white, like stormtroopers.
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Aug 9, 2023 06:03
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Al-Saqr posted:Hey guys genuine question, why would i ever prime any character grey or black, when contrast paints and paints in general look nicer and more vibrant when primed white? It seems like my ability to do any light colors is destroyed when i prime anything dark and its more work... There's multiple reasons to prime black. If you miss or reach a spot when painting it's not a big deal because it's in the shadows ergo black. It gives the most dramatic transition towards white for any kind of contrast or glazing. Also a lot of colours and metallics look better being built up from black.
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Aug 9, 2023 06:11
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Hmm you guys make a good point ill do a test run of different primes and zenithals and see what works best for me
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Aug 9, 2023 06:29
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also some people just want a dingy, muddy-colored look. vibrant isn't always the goal.
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Aug 9, 2023 09:21
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My white primer doesn't go on evenly so that's why I prime in grey
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Aug 9, 2023 09:31
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I zenith black to grey because those are the primers I own. 
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Aug 9, 2023 10:04
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i've taken to priming brown, zenithal pale sand, drybrushing off-white. it's a bit of a faff but contrasts go on real nice over it
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Aug 9, 2023 10:05
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I prime grey because that’s what my Wolves are. 
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Aug 9, 2023 10:07
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Honestly 90% of the reason I use a black coat with a zenithal on top is so that I know where the raised points and recesses on the model naturally are. It makes up for the fact that some translucent paints look like rear end over a dark primer.
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Aug 9, 2023 10:23
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Cease to Hope posted:also some people just want a dingy, muddy-colored look. vibrant isn't always the goal. Those people are boring
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Aug 9, 2023 12:46
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This is what I always tell people. When you're starting out prime black, it is more forgiving, if you miss a spot, or your color transitions are imprecise, a black basecoat will hide your sins. When you've got some confidence, prime white, it lets you push brighter more saturated colors and really make things pop. When you're getting more advanced, move back to black, it lets you use techniques like zenithal, or undercoating, or building up tones and shades in ways that white will never allow. And when you're a master, prime Hot Pink for the challenge. 
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Aug 9, 2023 14:00
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When you reach enlightenment, you stop priming entirely, because you can finally admit to yourself you are never going to finish all these projects anyway and it will be easier to resell the models without primer.
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Aug 9, 2023 14:40
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Prime white, then hit it with a dark wash; brown or black.
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Aug 9, 2023 14:51
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Cease to Hope posted:vallejo brown earth paste is a pretty close color match. if the color is still unacceptably dissimilar, you can paint it with matching regular paints. it looks like VMC brown sand or citadel balor brown are good matches. Is "Brown Earth Paste" the same as "Brown Earth Gel?"
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Aug 9, 2023 15:26
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Ashcans posted:When you reach enlightenment, you stop priming entirely, because you can finally admit to yourself you are never going to finish all these projects anyway and it will be easier to resell the models without primer.
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Aug 9, 2023 17:58
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I painted a mammoth to go with some real mammoth stuff  
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Aug 9, 2023 18:59
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Winklebottom posted:I painted a mammoth to go with some real mammoth stuff 
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Aug 9, 2023 21:34
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Spanish Manlove posted:[people who want muddy colors] are boring i will keep my filthy awful mutant gremlins and you can keep your incorrect opinions. (also ofc models look better with contrast to draw the eye in interesting ways.) EdsTeioh posted:Is "Brown Earth Paste" the same as "Brown Earth Gel?" yeah same thing. vallejo 26219. i prob shouldn't have capitalized paste. there's a brown mud in the same line with a darker, slightly reddish hue and a different texture. not that.
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Aug 9, 2023 23:07
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Ashcans posted:When you reach enlightenment, you stop priming entirely, because you can finally admit to yourself you are never going to finish all these projects anyway and it will be easier to resell the models without primer. No, enlightenment is when you buy thousands of dollars of minis and let them sit unassembled/NIB for years before going "Why do I keep buying this poo poo? Ah right, nostalgia dopamine hit."
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Aug 10, 2023 02:35
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  both WIP
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Aug 10, 2023 04:55
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chin up everything sucks posted:No, enlightenment is when you buy thousands of dollars of minis and let them sit unassembled/NIB for years before going "Why do I keep buying this poo poo? Ah right, nostalgia dopamine hit." Shut up shut up shut up 
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Aug 10, 2023 09:56
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So I just stripped my test Hearthkin again and repainted him quickly now that I know what I wanted, finished him up and then when I went to glue him together finally realised that this isn't like the old 3E spacemarines where all the arms fit together with each other. Oops.
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Aug 10, 2023 11:26
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Shoehead posted:So I just stripped my test Hearthkin again and repainted him quickly now that I know what I wanted, finished him up and then when I went to glue him together finally realised that this isn't like the old 3E spacemarines where all the arms fit together with each other. Oops. You can make the arms work on any body if you're willing to shave/shim joints and possibly cover some gaps with epoxy putty.
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Aug 10, 2023 15:09
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I believe I have located the correct opposite arm at least! I'm excited to get it painted up so I can varnish this sucker and show him off.
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Aug 10, 2023 15:23
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A cross post from the oath thread:Southern Heel posted:5/15 warriors done! They are so much fun to paint except for the red over black. Such simple and rewarding designs.
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Aug 10, 2023 20:58
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Southern Heel posted:A cross post from the oath thread: Nice! I remember seeing these in the old white dwarfs. Are they metal or plastic? I would get some to paint myself but they're hard to find even on eBay.
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Aug 10, 2023 21:59
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Making a start of the Leviathan tyranids     I had some of the old rending claws spare so I could give the Neurotyrant some big hands to match his old version. 
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Aug 10, 2023 22:54
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 I've also made a start on my nids. Going to add some snow to the base once they're all done as I'm not fond of the colour at the moment.
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Aug 11, 2023 06:31
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