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Chill la Chill
Jul 2, 2007

Don't lose your gay


I'm still at awe at the dragon's glow. The crystals have great contrast too.

edit: Holy moly I tried milliput and it's great. It's messy and there's instances where I'd still rather use greenstuff for more organic gaps but this one is fantastic. So easy to work with when wet. I wonder how much of this ease is due to using a silicone putty/craft brush, since that's made my life a whole lot easier for greenstuff too.

SuperKlaus posted:

How might I texture a greenstuff straw hat to look like it's woven of straw? I'm interested in ideas usable after the greenstuff has set as well as before - I could craft a new hat now that I'm learning to sculpt but I'd rather not. Some kind of texture paint?
Paint with deliberate brush strokes so you get the hatching pattern. If you had a darker undercoat, paint the highlight so you leave brushstrokes and hatching behind. I would say it's almost unintuitive this advice is.


Silhouette posted:

Base of Vermin Fur or Snakebite Leather, a million layers of Sunburst Yellow, Sunburst + Skull White in increasing amounts for highlights, glaze with thinned Flesh Wash

Good luck replicating some of those paints btw, there's nothing on the market close enough to the orangey-brown hue that 90s Flesh Wash had.

This is probably why when I first asked about yellow nowadays, I assumed it was from a brown base. I guess that advice is just so old.

Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 14:58 on Aug 14, 2023

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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

SuperKlaus posted:

How might I texture a greenstuff straw hat to look like it's woven of straw? I'm interested in ideas usable after the greenstuff has set as well as before - I could craft a new hat now that I'm learning to sculpt but I'd rather not. Some kind of texture paint?

Build up cross hatching, I wanted this dudes apron to look like cheap woven fabric (like a burlap sack) so it's just a lot of layers of cross hatching. Starting from brown, then ochre, then off white then white. For straw you can just stop at ochre

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Chill la Chill posted:

edit: Holy moly I tried milliput and it's great. It's messy and there's instances where I'd still rather use greenstuff for more organic gaps but this one is fantastic. So easy to work with when wet. I wonder how much of this ease is due to using a silicone putty/craft brush, since that's made my life a whole lot easier for greenstuff too.


Try mixing greenstuff and milliput 50:50

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord

This dude kicks rear end

Hedningen
May 4, 2013

Enough sideburns to last a lifetime.

SuperKlaus posted:

How might I texture a greenstuff straw hat to look like it's woven of straw? I'm interested in ideas usable after the greenstuff has set as well as before - I could craft a new hat now that I'm learning to sculpt but I'd rather not. Some kind of texture paint?

Wickerwork/straw is complex, but mostly just learning how to keep consistent width for the reeds and maybe exaggerating it slightly. There’s a lot of different types of straw hats, too.

Here’s a few wickerwork sculpting tutorials that you might find helpful.









AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Quick 'n Dirty

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Hedningen posted:

Wickerwork/straw is complex, but mostly just learning how to keep consistent width for the reeds and maybe exaggerating it slightly. There’s a lot of different types of straw hats, too.

Here’s a few wickerwork sculpting tutorials that you might find helpful.




These are pretty cool, as someone with precious little sculpting ability. Where did they come from, do you know?

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


those are all kick rear end but lmao at the 24-step Quick And Dirty method

Flip Yr Wig
Feb 21, 2007

Oh please do go on
Fun Shoe
How much of a concern is residue dust from curing superglue? I have always made a point to only superglue things before applying any paint, but I realize that is keeping me from some obvious and common post-painting basing techniques. What can I do to minimize the risk of superglue dust getting on painted minis?

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

Flip Yr Wig posted:

How much of a concern is residue dust from curing superglue? I have always made a point to only superglue things before applying any paint, but I realize that is keeping me from some obvious and common post-painting basing techniques. What can I do to minimize the risk of superglue dust getting on painted minis?

i assume youre talking about the frosty white look you get on paint after a super gluing and in my experience, that comes from using too much glue.

i superglue a lot of painted models and, again in my experience, using too much super glue always results in frost. think brylcreem and you wont go wrong.

Hedningen
May 4, 2013

Enough sideburns to last a lifetime.

SiKboy posted:

These are pretty cool, as someone with precious little sculpting ability. Where did they come from, do you know?

These are all by Admiralty Miniatures. Originally posted on the 9th Age forums and circulated as useful resources ever since. There are more available - I think I’ve posted an album link to the ones I have in the Sculpting thread.


jesus WEP posted:

those are all kick rear end but lmao at the 24-step Quick And Dirty method

It’s mostly to avoid the standard “now draw the rest of the owl” issues with art tutorials, I suspect. A little overkill but you end up knowing every stroke of the sculpting tool. A real in-depth study would involve looking at how to make wicker look correct in scale, what sort of patterns you can make and how to imply them, and a whole lot more technical details, which is why sculpting is fun as hell and also requires a good amount of practice.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat

Flip Yr Wig posted:

How much of a concern is residue dust from curing superglue? I have always made a point to only superglue things before applying any paint, but I realize that is keeping me from some obvious and common post-painting basing techniques. What can I do to minimize the risk of superglue dust getting on painted minis?

You could try pinning the parts you want to glue this way, that way you can put the glue on the pin rather than having it smush out the sides if you apply it directly to the part.


Quick and dirty MS Paint example:

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Hedningen posted:

These are all by Admiralty Miniatures. Originally posted on the 9th Age forums and circulated as useful resources ever since. There are more available - I think I’ve posted an album link to the ones I have in the Sculpting thread.


You did, quoted here for anyone else who's interested;

Hedningen posted:

No real updates to post on my own stuff, but additional resources for sculptors.

Courtesy of Admiralty Miniatures (and, by extension, the Oldhammer Sculpting Group/the Chaos Dwarf forums), here’s an album of simple, step-by-step tutorials.

Also, I failed to mention Tom Mason’s YouTube Channel. This was a grave oversight, as he does a great job of showing sculpting techniques and tips in video format.

Thanks!

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat
I was painting a miniature today, blue over a white primer, when I noticed some of my brush strokes seemed to be chipping paint and primer away. I scratched lightly with a fingernail and, sure enough, the primer is coming right off the model. I need to strip it and start over with new primer, right?

ChubbyChecker
Mar 25, 2018

Jack B Nimble posted:

I was painting a miniature today, blue over a white primer, when I noticed some of my brush strokes seemed to be chipping paint and primer away. I scratched lightly with a fingernail and, sure enough, the primer is coming right off the model. I need to strip it and start over with new primer, right?

did you wash your your model before painting it?

what kind of plastic was it?

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 17 days!

Jack B Nimble posted:

I was painting a miniature today, blue over a white primer, when I noticed some of my brush strokes seemed to be chipping paint and primer away. I scratched lightly with a fingernail and, sure enough, the primer is coming right off the model. I need to strip it and start over with new primer, right?

I would say that's probably the best route to go, yeah. What primer was it? And how long did it cure for before you started painting on it?

Flip Yr Wig
Feb 21, 2007

Oh please do go on
Fun Shoe

PoptartsNinja posted:

You could try pinning the parts you want to glue this way, that way you can put the glue on the pin rather than having it smush out the sides if you apply it directly to the part.


Quick and dirty MS Paint example:


Definitely a cool idea for fitting non-plastic pieces, though in my case, I was specifically thinking about grass tufts, where this wouldn't work.

My Spirit Otter posted:

i assume youre talking about the frosty white look you get on paint after a super gluing and in my experience, that comes from using too much glue.

i superglue a lot of painted models and, again in my experience, using too much super glue always results in frost. think brylcreem and you wont go wrong.

Maybe my best bet is to experiment with some minis that have only been primed to see how the amount of glue I would use would be a problem.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Very much on the functional side of things with these, but I have painted up some casualty markers and some cowls for 10mm:

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

Southern Heel posted:

Very much on the functional side of things with these, but I have painted up some casualty markers and some cowls for 10mm:



so good. love them. thematic game markers ftw

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

Flip Yr Wig posted:

Maybe my best bet is to experiment with some minis that have only been primed to see how the amount of glue I would use would be a problem.

it takes a shockingly small amount.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Southern Heel posted:

Why can’t miniature company simply name their paints the actual colour or pigment? I saw that Dana Howl had a preproduction set of the speed paints V2 and they had simple names like warm yellow, cool blue - and now they have to be ridiculous: testicle pink, dog sick yellow, etc.

vallejo model color has basic, straightforward names, except for the handful that are specific color matches to historical colors (like "german uniform").

SuperKlaus posted:

How might I texture a greenstuff straw hat to look like it's woven of straw? I'm interested in ideas usable after the greenstuff has set as well as before - I could craft a new hat now that I'm learning to sculpt but I'd rather not. Some kind of texture paint?

you'd add the texture at the sculpting stage. a straw hat has tightly-spaced concentric circle weaving lines, with straight or diagonal hatches between them that may be so fine they don't show up at this scale.

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat

Sydney Bottocks posted:

I would say that's probably the best route to go, yeah. What primer was it? And how long did it cure for before you started painting on it?

It's just a space marine intercessor, one of like twenty or thirty models I batch primed with Rust-Oleum flat white primer. I haven't noticed this issue with any other minis and have painted most of them to various stages.

It is a model I had assembled for multiple years before priming, whereas most of the others were sitting in boxes. I think I even played a game or two of kill team with it in bare plastic, so yeah maybe something got on it. I didn't wash any of the models, I hadn't really internalized that as a step in priming, I guess I'll so that going forward

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
I finished up my Cacodemon today. I'm so happy with how he turned out!

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

PoptartsNinja posted:

Quick and dirty MS Paint example:


:nws:

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Virtual Russian posted:

Try mixing greenstuff and milliput 50:50

Ahem I think you meant to say Magic Sculpt.

It's amazing how the mix ends up having properties of both - it flexes like Greenstuff and sands like Magic Sculpt/Milliput.

Having said that Milliput is drat hard to sand when fully cured.

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Regarding Vallejo varnishes, what exactly is the practical difference between their regular range of Matt/satin/gloss and their range of polyurethane varnishes? Really not clear on how they vary.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Mr Teatime posted:

Regarding Vallejo varnishes, what exactly is the practical difference between their regular range of Matt/satin/gloss and their range of polyurethane varnishes? Really not clear on how they vary.

they are different kinds of paint. matte/satin/gloss are acrylic primer, just water-soluable paint but clear. polyeurethane is what you use to paint a car or a deck. the polyeurethane varnish is mainly aimed at people building model cars or looking for hard-wearing varnish you could use on an RC vehicle or drone.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Z the IVth posted:

Ahem I think you meant to say Magic Sculpt.

It's amazing how the mix ends up having properties of both - it flexes like Greenstuff and sands like Magic Sculpt/Milliput.

Having said that Milliput is drat hard to sand when fully cured.

I do use both, I have several pounds of magic sculpt in tubs that are aging faster than I can use it.

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
More Forbidden Psalm nonsense

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

hot cocoa on the couch posted:

so good. love them. thematic game markers ftw

Thank you! Not all the games I play use them, and some have much larger casualty figures than I can hope to represent with actual bases but hopefully in those games I can use these to represent being suppressed, broken, etc. or as a 'full dice' worth of casualties.

The cows are slightly less practical, but I can use them for objectives in skirmish games or some decoration in fields/etc.

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007



I painted my first primaris marine

Paragon8
Feb 19, 2007

Cease to Hope posted:

they are different kinds of paint. matte/satin/gloss are acrylic primer, just water-soluable paint but clear. polyeurethane is what you use to paint a car or a deck. the polyeurethane varnish is mainly aimed at people building model cars or looking for hard-wearing varnish you could use on an RC vehicle or drone.

vallejo polyurethanes are water based "acrylic polyurethanes" and are intended for general use, I think there is a premium one that is specifically intended for RC cars though. You're probably painting a deck with an oil based poly coat.

As far as I can tell its more of a marketing gimmick than anything with no practical difference to what we use them for in mini painting. I've used both types of vallejo varnishes interchangeably without any issues. While I haven't noticed any issues I would definitely recommend doing a test model if you're using it as a layer before weathering with oils/enamels.

Paragon8 fucked around with this message at 11:07 on Aug 15, 2023

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Paragon8 posted:

vallejo polyurethanes are water based "acrylic polyurethanes" and are intended for general use, I think there is a premium one that is specifically intended for RC cars though. You're probably painting a deck with an oil based poly coat.

i definitely remember how to spell polyurethane rather than looking like an idiot. anyhow acrylic polyurethane and water-based polyurethane are basically synonyms and yes what vallejo is selling is more likely what you'd use on an indoor floor than a deck.

POINT BEING: vallejo premium color, their entire polyurethane line, is massive overkill for 28mm models. most of the advantages of polyurethane are not material to wargame models, which mainly need to be protected from soft friction wear, because any sort of real wear or shock will break or destroy them anyway. so, buying PU paint for models, you're paying money for little benefit. stick to acrylic varnish/medium unless it's for dual-use.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
you can, however, use vallejo premium color to airbrush a wizard miniature then airbrush a wizard onto the side of a panel van

Space Friend
Dec 23, 2011

Finally got bit by the space marine big. This boyo here is my first try at a full body nmm using the Vallejo nmm kit. Heavy body acrylics are...an interesting challenge to work with. I guess the more painterly quality jives with the Renaissance nerds of the chapter? C&C ok


Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 17 days!
I've got some acrylic polyurethane varnishes, but they're the same type you can get at any arts store or in the crafts section of any big box retail store, and they cost like $4-5 (possibly even less) for a 2oz bottle, depending on where you're located, of course. Been using them on minis for years with no issues.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Geisladisk posted:



I painted my first primaris marine

That's how I painted my first one as well! I have since doubled my output by painting one while I was helping out at a "learn to paint" thing.

Dr. Red Ranger
Nov 9, 2011

Nap Ghost

Verisimilidude posted:

This should be the last photo I post of this model! Finished the rider today, which means the Auric Runefather on Magmadroth is completed. :)



Even the mushrooms look like they glow. Is that just from pushing the contrast so hard? Amazing; it looks like he's in the middle of a laser tag arena.

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
Ok I was dumb and I ordered some 3d printed stuff, which so far I've had ok luck with but this stuff that came is some kind of polymer that poly cement wont stick, tbh I could barely get primer on it. I've tried Gorilla glue but the way it expanded both coated the model in crud and actually pushed parts apart as it expanded. Is superglue a way to go or am I stuck with Polymer or greenstuff. Mixing Polymer seems daunting

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Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Poly cement works by melting together plastic and doesn't work on anything except the very specific plastic it is designed for. I dunno what gorilla glue is, but superglue is the way to go for gluing 3d printed stuff, yeah.

I've never had any issues with primer not sticking to 3d printed models. Have they been cleaned and cured properly? Does the model have a glossy sheen and is slightly sticky to the touch? If so, the seller didn't do their job properly. Stick the model in some alcohol and then leave it by a open window on a sunny day for half a hour and it should be good.

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