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Chrome was running like hot garbage on my PC so I started poking around in task manager and noticed I was down 1 stick of ram of Patriot Viper DDR4 4000 (2-3 years old). I popped the case open and first tried reseating (still one). Through trial and error, I found the stick next to the CPU cooler (3) wasn't registering. I moved the stick from slot 1 to 3 and computer booted so I thought I just had a stick die on me. But for completeness I swapped slots and everything booted with 2 stick registering. So question, is this a "huh I guess it works now" or should I be concerned that either a stick or slot is on its way out? Edit: \/cool thanks MasterBuilder fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Aug 5, 2023 |
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Aug 5, 2023 15:50
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MasterBuilder posted:Chrome was running like hot garbage on my PC so I started poking around in task manager and noticed I was down 1 stick of ram of Patriot Viper DDR4 4000 (2-3 years old). I popped the case open and first tried reseating (still one). Through trial and error, I found the stick next to the CPU cooler (3) wasn't registering. I moved the stick from slot 1 to 3 and computer booted so I thought I just had a stick die on me. But for completeness I swapped slots and everything booted with 2 stick registering. It is possible that after all the messing around you finally dislodged whatever dust was causing the issue. Carry on unless the problem returns.
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Aug 5, 2023 15:54
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For the record, usually you're supposed to put your ram in slots 2 and 4, not 1 and 3 (counting left to right). I wonder how much this really matters though.
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Aug 5, 2023 21:15
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:For the record, usually you're supposed to put your ram in slots 2 and 4, not 1 and 3 (counting left to right). I wonder how much this really matters though. Depends on the motherboard, T-topology boards it doesn't actually matter because it is the same distance to both banks from the controller. IIRC with the serial topology you want the memory in the further away from the CPU slots because otherwise you get ripples and signal reflection noise from it bouncing off the further away banks that aren't properly terminated, but that is only a problem if you are pushing the limit of overclocking or using really high performance sticks which is essentially the same thing (at normal or more tame rated speeds the memory and controller should for the most part be able to deal with it).
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Aug 5, 2023 22:08
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I am trusting my past self that I put the ram in the recommended spots based on the mother board manual.
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Aug 5, 2023 22:19
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MasterBuilder posted:I am trusting my past self that I put the ram in the recommended spots based on the mother board manual. It is one of those things where if it works and is hitting the speed you paid for, don't worry about it.
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Aug 5, 2023 23:18
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im convincing my buddy to build a computer instead of buying a gaming laptop, i was thinking / recommending waiting to labor day to maybe get some deals, is there any other reason to wait on building (e.g. new releases im not aware of, havent been paying attention)? was probably just gonna recommend a variant of https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/kNwrxr/enthusiast-intel-gamingstreaming-build
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Aug 6, 2023 16:36
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Mr. Crow posted:im convincing my buddy to build a computer instead of buying a gaming laptop, i was thinking / recommending waiting to labor day to maybe get some deals, is there any other reason to wait on building (e.g. new releases im not aware of, havent been paying attention)? Does he live near a micro center because they have the legit builds. I’d also recommend posting in the PC building thread. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3970266&perpage=40&pagenumber=1&noseen=1
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Aug 6, 2023 16:53
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MarcusSA posted:Does he live near a micro center because they have the legit builds. I’d also recommend posting in the PC building thread. yeah, if he doesn't want to DIY he can go thru Microcenter and get a real computer already prebuilt or have an employee put one together for him for not much above the cost of parts if he needs a laptop then he should get a Macbook Air. He could probably get one along with a gaming PC for the combined equivalent cost of a $3k "gaming" laptop
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Aug 6, 2023 16:57
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MarcusSA posted:Does he live near a micro center because they have the legit builds. I’d also recommend posting in the PC building thread. right i forgot that thread existed. i think he does live near one, are you talking a pre-built or just getting the parts / deals from there?
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Aug 6, 2023 17:19
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Mr. Crow posted:right i forgot that thread existed. i think he does live near one, are you talking a pre-built or just getting the parts / deals from there? Either way honestly. They have smoking deals on combos that can’t be beat. He could also get the parts and they will put it all together for a decent price as well.
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Aug 6, 2023 17:23
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Mr. Crow posted:right i forgot that thread existed. i think he does live near one, are you talking a pre-built or just getting the parts / deals from there? Ok Comboomer posted:yeah, if he doesn't want to DIY he can go thru Microcenter and get a real computer already prebuilt or have an employee put one together for him for not much above the cost of parts
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Aug 6, 2023 17:52
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Is there a UPS thread? I tried looking but I can't find one. My house has this piece of poo poo Wattbox UPS that turns off a bunch of vital stuff every time the power flickers, and I'm trying to figure out what to replace it with.
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Aug 9, 2023 23:39
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Cyberpower or APC make reasonably competent units once you get into the proper pure sine wave ones.
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Aug 10, 2023 00:05
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Indiana_Krom posted:Cyberpower or APC make reasonably competent units once you get into the proper pure sine wave ones.
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Aug 10, 2023 14:20
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What modem and router do you have? Or, if you can check, what voltage and amperage do the power adapters output? Because if that's all you want to run you can get a UPS that only outputs DC power, basically a glorified USB power bank. Since they don't have to waste any energy running bulky switching circuitry to simulate an AC sine wave the DC only units would have a runtime measured in days vs minutes.
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Aug 10, 2023 14:32
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Oldstench posted:Does "simulated sine wave" mean the same thing? I'm looking to get one to just plug my modem and router into so that power flickers don't kill our internet. Something like this maybe?
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Aug 10, 2023 22:01
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Not hardware related, but I can't find another thread to ask: what're the best free e-mail options kicking around these days?
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Aug 15, 2023 00:24
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Idk if there's a better place to ask this, anyways: I upgraded my PSU late last year. Corsair Rmx850 Gold It's had some significant coil whine (kinda sounds like a dull grind) when the gpu kicks into high gear when playing something more demanding. (GPU is an MSI 3060 12GB) I went into MSI Afterburner and messed with some settings. I reduced power to 85% (note, I did not test a higher % I just arbitrarily tried 85%) that's eliminated the coil whine completely. My question is, is this something wrong with the GPU or the PSU? Is it worth pursuing an RMA? The PSU is under warranty for 10 years
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Aug 15, 2023 00:25
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Action-Bastard posted:My question is, is this something wrong with the GPU or the PSU? Is it worth pursuing an RMA? The PSU is under warranty for 10 years Coil whine isn't always hardware related. It could just be lovely mains power.
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Aug 15, 2023 00:48
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Incidentally, I also have an RM850x and have also started hearing that same kind of low grinding type of coil whine once I upgraded to a 4090. Though I just assumed it was the 4090 making the sound and not the PSU—I haven't really checked because my computer is in an inconvenient spot to do that while it's running. It's petty quiet and only happens occasionally, so I've just ignored it.
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Aug 15, 2023 03:46
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Yeah likewise I would ignore it but when I started Baldurs Gate 3 it became much more prolonged and frequent.
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Aug 15, 2023 05:00
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My PC is connected to a monitor and tv, that I never use simultaneously (I can't see the other when I'm at one). I've found that the ideal set up is to have my monitor disabled in settings. If I do need to use it, I unplug the tv and the monitor automatically turns on (and turns off as soon as the I reconnect the tv). The alternative of having both on at the same time (extended) is less than ideal because of the tendency of windows to launch on the wrong screen (and plenty of windows aren't movable with the Win+direction key combo). Mirroring doesn't work great either because the resolutions are different. I'm wondering if there's a more elegant solution (partially because I'm a bit worried about the longevities of the HDMI plug and port). Either a hardware or software one.
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Aug 16, 2023 16:35
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Rinkles posted:My PC is connected to a monitor and tv, that I never use simultaneously (I can't see the other when I'm at one). I've found that the ideal set up is to have my monitor disabled in settings. If I do need to use it, I unplug the tv and the monitor automatically turns on (and turns off as soon as the I reconnect the tv). I just hit windows + p to select monitor. My PC is 2 monitors and I have a TV by my bed. When I move between them i go from extended(2 monitors) to second monitor which is my TV. For just two monitors you can you Primary and Seconday instead of Extended & Second. Works pretty well until my main PC monitor decides it no longer wants to talk to my PC, about once a week.
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Aug 16, 2023 17:49
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Bondematt posted:I just hit windows + p to select monitor. I didn't know you could toggle between using two monitors and a third screen. I used to use that shortcut, but I occasionally had some issues (I don't remember what). But that was a while ago and Windows 10, so maybe it's been fixed whatever it was. Though the nice thing about my current "solution" is that it doesn't require reaching for the keyboard, which I don't always need when using the tv.
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Aug 16, 2023 17:59
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I mean a hardware hdmi splitter will show the same thing on either or both screens, possibly none, without the computer being any the wiser. You lose the extend option that you don't care about. Be careful shopping for those wrt supported hdmi versions, resolutions and refresh rates though. E: also assume both screens need to be able to support the same resolution and refresh rate for it to work, because the signal will just be cloned. Flipperwaldt fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Aug 16, 2023 |
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Aug 16, 2023 18:38
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I upgraded my PSU, swapping all of the cables except for a single sata cable powering an ssd, and the PC wouldn't start. I swapped out the sata cable for one that came with the new PSU, and it worked, and the ssd still seems ok. Is this a common thing? I thought those cables were standardized. Are you just not allowed to mix and match?
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Aug 16, 2023 20:09
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tractor fanatic posted:I upgraded my PSU, swapping all of the cables except for a single sata cable powering an ssd, and the PC wouldn't start. I swapped out the sata cable for one that came with the new PSU, and it worked, and the ssd still seems ok. Is this a common thing? I thought those cables were standardized. Are you just not allowed to mix and match? There is no standard for modular psu cables, even within the same brand. You can only mix and match if the manufacturer has a compatability list.
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Aug 16, 2023 20:13
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tractor fanatic posted:I upgraded my PSU, swapping all of the cables except for a single sata cable powering an ssd, and the PC wouldn't start. I swapped out the sata cable for one that came with the new PSU, and it worked, and the ssd still seems ok. Is this a common thing? I thought those cables were standardized. Are you just not allowed to mix and match? The pinout of the connector on the device/load side is the only thing that is standardized. Pinouts on the PSU side most definitely are not, and as a result swapping modular cables between models can be risky even for the same OEM. Using the same cables with different OEMs is a bad idea unless you've specifically checked to make sure they are consistent. I mostly buy Seasonic recently and the last time I checked it seemed like they keep all their models consistent, but no guarantees - it was a while back and I only made sure for the three or so that I own. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Aug 16, 2023 |
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Aug 16, 2023 20:24
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tractor fanatic posted:I upgraded my PSU, swapping all of the cables except for a single sata cable powering an ssd, and the PC wouldn't start. I swapped out the sata cable for one that came with the new PSU, and it worked, and the ssd still seems ok. Is this a common thing? I thought those cables were standardized. Are you just not allowed to mix and match? You got lucky. There's no standardisation for modular psu cables. Only use the cables that come with the psu unless you're absolutely certain of the pinouts.
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Aug 16, 2023 20:38
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Thanks. I never realized that, but I guess I've never upgraded a PSU before
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Aug 16, 2023 20:55
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You are very lucky that your sata drives survived that. There have been goons in the past who have lost all of their drives because they did the same thing as you.
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Aug 16, 2023 23:05
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Rinkles posted:My PC is connected to a monitor and tv, that I never use simultaneously (I can't see the other when I'm at one). I've found that the ideal set up is to have my monitor disabled in settings. If I do need to use it, I unplug the tv and the monitor automatically turns on (and turns off as soon as the I reconnect the tv). Yeah if you just get an HDMI switch (like a KVM but just for the monitor) you can press the button on the switch to swap between, saving the HDMI port from mechanical stress. Sorry for full link, phone posting, but something like this from Canadian Amazon: https://a.co/d/iuY8XAi
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Aug 16, 2023 23:35
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tractor fanatic posted:Thanks. I never realized that, but I guess I've never upgraded a PSU before Yeah, I check ‘em with a DVOM if I have to swap or add a PS cable; half the time they’re wrong and I need to re-pin the connectors. They really should standardize this poo poo.
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Aug 17, 2023 00:00
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VelociBacon posted:Yeah if you just get an HDMI switch (like a KVM but just for the monitor) you can press the button on the switch to swap between, saving the HDMI port from mechanical stress. I was wondering whether that would work, because (as is) the tv being off isn't enough, the cable needs to be physically unplugged.
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Aug 17, 2023 01:17
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Rinkles posted:I was wondering whether that would work, because (as is) the tv being off isn't enough, the cable needs to be physically unplugged. You mean the cable needs to be unplugged for it to recognize to switch to the monitor right? The thing is you don't need to do that anymore, you're diverting the video feed to one at a time only, it's not a splitter.
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Aug 17, 2023 01:30
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Bondematt posted:I just hit windows + p to select monitor. One problem with this is doing it blind, especially since the Win+P pop up seems to behave differently on each screen. On my monitor it defaults to selecting one of the projection options, like this  On my tv, for whatever reason, it selects the back arrow (so you need to first hit the tab button to access the options)  And I got to remember that going from monitor to tv means going "up" the menu, and it's down vice versa. Not an insurmountable issue, but annoying.
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Aug 17, 2023 02:53
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You should be able to press win+p multiple times until the right option is selected. If the starting point is consistent for each monitor, so should be the number of times you need to press the combo. Like two in one direction, four in the other or something.
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Aug 17, 2023 10:28
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Does anyone have experience with Wyze security cameras? I'm having a fun time with a neighbor and have setup a few cameras. Is there a way for me to turn off the interior cameras when my phone joins the Wi-Fi network? There isn't an option for it in the Wyze app.
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Aug 18, 2023 04:12
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nomad2020 posted:Does anyone have experience with Wyze security cameras? I'm having a fun time with a neighbor and have setup a few cameras. If you have an iphone there could possibly be a way to automate that. Possibly.
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Aug 18, 2023 04:17
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