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I AM GRANDO posted:I have an extremely basic question that I can’t google my way to answering: It is an air-lock problem. I have the same problem with my bathroom sink, and it is due to the tailpiece that I used not having holes cut/drilled into it for the overflow - which also acts as a vacuum break/AAV. I drilled a couple into it but they were not big enough, so now it randomly fills. I push it along by covering the overflow with my thumb, then slamming my palm into the drain like a plunger. Eventually, I'll replace it; I have the components. It's item #378 on the to-do list.
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Aug 14, 2023 13:53
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Nitrox posted:Your story is missing several bits of information. Is that something that started happening recently? Did anyone bother to undo the trap and see if it's clogged? Is this in the house, condo, or apartment building? How old is the building? Here’s the info you’re asking for. Thank you for your help: There are no pipes other than the loop-the-loop one and the hot and cold lines in. This is something that has slowly gotten more noticeable over time, but I’ve only been in this place for a year. It’s an apartment and the building was built in the 1970s. Nobody has looked in the trap.
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Aug 14, 2023 14:23
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StormDrain posted:Does yours also have an air admittance valve? There is no air admittance valve or anything other than the p-trap and lines in for hot and cold. Thank you for the suggestions.
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Aug 14, 2023 14:26
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You need to call property maintenance. I feel like we need a disclaimer in all of these thread about rentals.
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Aug 14, 2023 14:39
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Insurrectum posted:I have an 1950s house with some ancient toilets I decided to take off and replace, but after I finally got the first toilet removed ran into this mess. The flange bolts are 6.5 inches apart and it looks like they used some kind of putty both under the toilet and to extend the flange "seal" down to the pipe (which is inset into the floor an inch or two). Everything crumbled and broke apart with the lightest touch--both the white "sealant" in the middle and whatever they were using around the flange presumably to level the toilet. I'm probably going to call a plumber out now that this isn't a simple swap out, but has anyone seen anything like this mess before? Update: Quoted $650 to install a new cast iron flange with an oakum and lead joint--real traditional plumbing work! Not happy with the cost (as compared to a new construction flange), but interested to see the process. I'm also in a HCOL area so $500 is table stakes for any non-trivial work, so I'm happy to pay it. This is a main floor toilet so this should hold up better to lots of use compared to one of those slide-in PVC expansion flanges.
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Aug 14, 2023 15:18
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Insurrectum posted:Update: Quoted $650 to install a new cast iron flange with an oakum and lead joint--real traditional plumbing work! Not happy with the cost (as compared to a new construction flange), but interested to see the process. I'm also in a HCOL area so $500 is table stakes for any non-trivial work, so I'm happy to pay it. This is a main floor toilet so this should hold up better to lots of use compared to one of those slide-in PVC expansion flanges. That price sounds right to me. I'm slightly surprised you were able to find someone who could still do it. The guys I know are all retired or just about there. I would be 100% calling in favors to get something like that done. Also, I'm sure that price is a lot less than drywall/plaster repair that would be necessary to replace the run in PVC back far enough to use a regular modern flange. Plus the tile bed work.
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Aug 14, 2023 15:21
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Yeah holy poo poo that is a victory! Great deal to get 'er fixed.
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Aug 14, 2023 17:32
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Nthing that that's a great price for the work involved and the best solution. I've only seen lead and oakum done on YouTube. Every plumber around here would replace it with PVC and then fernco it to the existing cast iron.
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Aug 14, 2023 17:44
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PainterofCrap posted:It is an air-lock problem. Speaking of air-lock problems, we have had one on our kitchen sink ever since the garbage disposal was replaced. Sometimes it just won’t drain until you break the seal by sticking your fingers down it, or just run the garbage disposal. Any ideas?
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Aug 14, 2023 18:10
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God dammit. I thought that overflow covers would have universally-sized screws. They don't. The old one was a "single screw" style, and had a small bracket that screwed into the two existing screw-holes:  But those two screws are smaller than the screws that came with my new one:  Guess I should have stuck with the one-screw style.
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Aug 14, 2023 19:51
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(I am the homeowner) I think this counts as plumbing? I'm in the process of doing the floor and repainting a laundry room and need to move the gas dryer out. I have to disconnect the gas line in order to do this and I want to make sure I have all the steps down before I attempt this. - Shutoff gas / Verify - Remove current flexible hose - Do the work - Install new hose - Test for leaks Should I be worried about this shutoff? Can I verify the gas is off by just running the dryer? Tape that comes with the gas line kit should be fine? Is this kit OK? https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN/5013929095 Any tips/warnings/jokes? 
c355n4 fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Aug 15, 2023 |
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Aug 15, 2023 14:21
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You don't use teflon tape on the hoses. That's only there for the pipe thread side of the adapters, which you probably won't need so don't take the one off of that valve.
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Aug 15, 2023 14:33
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Motronic posted:You don't use teflon tape on the hoses. That's only there for the pipe thread side of the adapters, which you probably won't need so don't take the one off of that valve. Gotcha. Forgot to add test for leaks at the end.
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Aug 15, 2023 14:44
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c355n4 posted:Gotcha. Yeah, do that. And make sure you're using two wrenches - one for the hose and one to "back" the fitting on the other side. As to the testing if the gas is off - eh, the valve works or it doesn't in my experience. That looks like an older but good one. If it turns to off (across the pipe) it's gonna be closed. The problem with using the dryer to check is that it doesn't tell you if it's leaking just a little bit. Use your nose, ears and common sense. You know you'll smell residual gas when you take the hose off. If you continue to smell gas or it gets worse you know you have an issue.
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Aug 15, 2023 14:49
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Motronic posted:You know you'll smell residual gas when you take the hose off. If you continue to smell gas or it gets worse you know you have an issue. Whoever has the better nose in your household (if it's just you - that's you) turn it off, unhook it, let the gas aerate out, open a door and blow a fan at it while you go do something else in fresh air (perhaps hulk a dryer outside), then come back inside, turn off the fan, then get your nose right up on the valve and sniff it. If it smells like ancient crud you're golden, if it smells like rotting eggs you need to figure out how to seal it up. Double check if you're nose blind by bleeding your gas stove without lighting it for literally 1 second and you will know. If it's leaking a little bit you can literally just leave the fan pointing at the open door while you figure out how to get a cap on it, turn off your main gas, or similar.
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Aug 15, 2023 16:24
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I know when I last worked with gas, we essentially sprayed soapy water on the joints and watched to see if we got any bubbles, in addition to the various common-sense checks. It was good for finding small seeps. EDIT: Also note that some Teflon tape is not rated for gas/pressurized air, only for water, make sure you don't use the wrong kind if you use any at all in connection with this.
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Aug 15, 2023 19:49
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You could always just get a 1/2 in cap if you're worried about the valve slowly leaking. Before you touch it I'd make sure you know where the main shutoff is, and evaluate if that looks rusted in place. Our main shutoff was, the gas company came out and replaced it for free since it was on their side of the meter.
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Aug 15, 2023 22:47
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I have encountered many of those older brass valves that seem to leak a little; whenever I'd find one while inspecting a utility closet or basement, I'd go over and wave my cupped hand past the valve and take a whiff. At least half the time I'd get a note of mercaptan. I'd tell the homeowner, but the escape rate is so low at 4-6psi that it would dissipate before it was ever a problem. So, you may get a tiny odor. Another trick is to use the largest-bore straw that you can find, stick one end near the joint & sniff.
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Aug 16, 2023 03:43
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Goons, I just had new footings poured and my foundation walls re-done in ICF. It just trickle-leaked from the cold joint between wall and foundation during a huge rain storm, and the sump pit seemed to be under-utilized. My contractor is now trying to up-sell me into re-pouring my whole basement floor, or adding an additional weeper through the middle of my basement floor. Should I be following his advice, or belligerently insisting they hosed up and flinging poo poo everywhere? I get the impression he won't re-excavate until I've paid him to pour my basement floor. This seems like plumbing. Maybe it's landscaping?
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Aug 16, 2023 14:36
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Pff posted:Goons, I just had new footings poured and my foundation walls re-done in ICF. It just trickle-leaked from the cold joint between wall and foundation during a huge rain storm, and the sump pit seemed to be under-utilized. My contractor is now trying to up-sell me into re-pouring my whole basement floor, or adding an additional weeper through the middle of my basement floor. Should I be following his advice, or belligerently insisting they hosed up and flinging poo poo everywhere? I get the impression he won't re-excavate until I've paid him to pour my basement floor. This sounds like you need another contractor or maybe an engineer. Some professional that can be on site to look at this mess and give you a professional opinion. Expect to pay for that opinion. Once you have it you can figure out your next steps.
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Aug 16, 2023 15:22
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Yeah I would spend the $500-1000 to have a engineer out to look at it.
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Aug 16, 2023 16:53
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A couple months ago I replaced the dishwasher water valve with a new quarter turn compression valve. After turning the water back on I got a single drop of water and then nothing else. I haven't hooked it up yet but I am planning on replacing the faucet valves shortly and I'm wondering if I should redo that valve just to be safe? I'm worried that once the dishwasher gets hooked up that the changing pressure might cause it to start leaking. I also had a brain fart and rather than angling the valve towards the dishwasher it is pointing straight up. I don't know if that is a huge issue but it kind of annoys me.
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Aug 17, 2023 06:42
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 Hey all - I'm trying to swap out this showerhead for one with a handheld sprayer and for the life of me I can't get this off. I tried the "fill a plastic bag with vinegar and leave it on overnight" trick and no luck. It seems the PO put a ton of plumbers tape on it so I can't get it to budge. Any suggestions?
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Aug 17, 2023 15:00
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Yeah. Unscrew the gooseneck from the wall end and buy a new one.
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Aug 17, 2023 15:13
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PainterofCrap posted:Yeah. It seems like it's just a straight pipe going into the wall. I'm not a plumbing dude so I could be wrong, I'll check.
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Aug 17, 2023 16:15
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Pull the little metal disc back and you'll see that the chrome pipe coming out is threaded into a 90° elbow. That elbow is supposed to be anchored to framing but some aren't so take a look before you start wrenching on it.
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Aug 17, 2023 16:28
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Medullah posted:
Sometimes to get a better grip you can try putting a thin rag around what you're gripping, between it and your tool's jaws. If you're planning to replace it anyway, you could also cut partially through the ring with a hacksaw and just bust it up, if you're not planning to re-use it.
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Aug 17, 2023 21:43
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PainterofCrap posted:Yeah. This is the way. I'm assuming from the galling on the shower head that you've either already tried using the nearly correct tool, a pair of channel locks. Or, alternately, Gary did with the force of a chimp, and it's there for good. And use a rag in the Jaws of your pliers next time.
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Aug 18, 2023 06:25
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Thought y'all might appreciate this. I decided to remove a camellia bush by the back of my house. I made a few discoveries yesterday when I started to dig out the roots. Great placement PO! Hopefully this is also the source of my well problems where I suspect a tiny leak is killing my pressure without kicking on the pressure switch. I gotta go slap the pressure switch from time to time to get it started. 
Rufio fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Aug 22, 2023 |
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Aug 22, 2023 13:52
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I've got an older delta 2 handle tub faucet/ mixer that has a slow drip. I grabbed 2 new (delta branded ) stem units but that didn't seem to resolve the issue it actually drips a litw worse Time for a whole new valve body, or are there other tricks to stop this thing from leaking.
tater_salad fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Aug 23, 2023 |
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Aug 23, 2023 00:50
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tater_salad posted:I've got an older delta 2 handle tub faucet/ mixer that has a slow drip. I grabbed 2 new (delta branded ) stem units but that didn't seem to resolve the issue it actually drips a litw worse Time for a whole new valve body, or are there other tricks to stop this thing from leaking. Did you replace everything according to instructions? Did you replace the stem seats? Any leakage would be from that specific area
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Aug 23, 2023 01:32
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I can't say that I saw any seats, what I took out was valve stem and that was it I felt around inside and Al I felt was brass. I'll check for a seat with a flashlight again Thursday. I'm wondering if the old rear end stem extensions have swollen a little and don't close it all the way.. which is hard to test since I need the extension to be able to turn as the chrome trim that the ecrustion goes around keeps it all tightened down.
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Aug 23, 2023 03:18
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tater_salad posted:I can't say that I saw any seats, what I took out was valve stem and that was it I felt around inside and Al I felt was brass. I'll check for a seat with a flashlight again Thursday.
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Aug 23, 2023 04:11
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Nope.. mine are like sink faucet ones with extensions that the handle go on. With no nut on em the chrome 'sleeve' for lack to a better word screws in and acts as the nut. Stem  Extendo 
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Aug 23, 2023 10:24
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Today, I replaced my old fridge (which had a water line attachment that wasn't used for anything) with a new fridge (which thankfully does not have a water line attachment). I had a bucket out when I detached the water line from the old fridge, but nothing came out of it. It's now flopped onto my sink, and I wanted to double-check here. Here's the end of the water line (the water in the sink isn't from the line; it's from freezer stuff unthawing during the fridge swap):  Some kind of thingy in the middle of the water line:  Where the water line is connected under the sink:  My friend who helped me switch out the fridge said he turned off water to the line, but he was reluctant about detaching the line from the pipe under the sink and said I should hire a plumber for that. Is he right, or can I just unscrew the line and remove it? Thank you! I appreciate your expertise.
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Sep 2, 2023 22:57
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Does your house have a working quarter turn main shut off? If so knock yourself out. I would probably just snip it and call it a day. I wouldn't take the valve off though, that is a bigger project.
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Sep 2, 2023 23:07
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The "thingy" in the middle just looks like a connector between two pieces of pipe because probably the default one that came with the fridge was too short during installation or perhaps at some point it broke and needed to be fixed. If the valve has been turned off, you almost certainly want a plug for the end of it once you remove the hose, because valves tend to leak with sufficient time(or someone might nudge it open and send a nice spray of water into your kitchen cabinets, better safe than sorry). The only reason I could really think to worry about disconnecting the hose would be if it's really stuck and you end up wrenching that short length of copper or some other pipe out of place while removing it, at which point, yes, it's nice to have a plumber present who's A) responsible for any resulting damages and B) probably won't panic and likely knows how to solve things as soon as possible. In general if you're doing anything where you feel worried you don't understand 100% what you're doing, always get a tradesman or knowledgeable friend to do it rather than potentially end up stuck with some unwanted mess, bills or property damage.
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Sep 2, 2023 23:10
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H110Hawk posted:Does your house have a working quarter turn main shut off? If so knock yourself out. I would probably just snip it and call it a day. I wouldn't take the valve off though, that is a bigger project.  Snip it here? edit: thank you both! surf rock fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Sep 3, 2023 |
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Sep 2, 2023 23:11
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Yup. Or long enough to snake into the drain if it fails. This could include the ptrap under the sink.
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Sep 2, 2023 23:26
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If you're really feelin' lucky, shut off the water to the house, or, the water shutoff to the cold side of the sink (which would be some distance below or beyond the cabinet base/floor/wall, if it exists at all) then get a Sharkbite release tool, remove that T that fed the icemaker/fridge water line, and insert a straight Sharkbite.
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Sep 3, 2023 05:29
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