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emSparkly
Nov 21, 2022

I'm open to interpretation!
My left turn signal flicks really fast and the rear one doesn't light up but the front one does. Is it just a bad bulb?

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yes, and the double-speed blinking is actually by design to alert you that a bulb is out.

It's possible that it's actually a wiring or socket issue on the one that isn't working but either way step one is "swap the bulb" and worry about further troubleshooting then, because it's probably just the bulb.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



I figured that they blinked fast because the resistance was down so the relay didn't stay closed as long as it should

I am speaking of mechanical turn-signal relays

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Anybody know what the name / purpose of this can attached to the side of the air box is?


It’s on a 73-79 Ford 460, and it’s sealed, but looks kinda like an oil filter. I’ve never had a really great answer when folks ask what it is, but maybe you do.



Powershift posted:

It's a resonator to reduce certain annoying sound frequencies.

modern engines do it with chambers moulded into the intake.

fwiw this is a helmholtz resonator

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



cursedshitbox posted:

fwiw this is a helmholtz resonator

Neat! Thank you both

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Neat! Thank you both

They're used in exhaust systems quite a lot too if you're looking for a rabbit hole.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I’ve seen exhaust resonators (and removed and repaired and replaced them) but never on the intake. Given the broad engine application of the 460, it would make sense that I typically only saw the setup on Lincolns and Thunderbirds.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Dr. Lunchables posted:

I’ve seen exhaust resonators (and removed and repaired and replaced them) but never on the intake. Given the broad engine application of the 460, it would make sense that I typically only saw the setup on Lincolns and Thunderbirds.

It's embarassing but the FSI motor used in 05-08 VAG vehicles, at least on my 07 GTI, has a bigass plastic tube that goes from the intake manifold (I think) to the firewall:



It's only job is to bring engine sound to the cabin and it sucks. It also increases the volume of the space that needs to be compressed by the turbo which is kinda annoying.

Twerk from Home
Jan 17, 2009

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

VelociBacon posted:

It's embarassing but the FSI motor used in 05-08 VAG vehicles, at least on my 07 GTI, has a bigass plastic tube that goes from the intake manifold (I think) to the firewall:



It's only job is to bring engine sound to the cabin and it sucks. It also increases the volume of the space that needs to be compressed by the turbo which is kinda annoying.

This is no more embarrassing than most modern high end cars that play fake V8 noise through the speaker as your 4 or 6 cylinder revs.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Twerk from Home posted:

This is no more embarrassing than most modern high end cars that play fake V8 noise through the speaker as your 4 or 6 cylinder revs.

That shits embarrassing too

Twerk from Home
Jan 17, 2009

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

That shits embarrassing too

Yeah, I agree but also it's in so so many things now. It's hard to avoid.

Harley even added a vibration motor to the Livewire to make it rumble some, I bet we'll start getting some of it in cars too.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Twerk from Home posted:

This is no more embarrassing than most modern high end cars that play fake V8 noise through the speaker as your 4 or 6 cylinder revs.

Hello from VW world, where there's an entire component to simulate engine noise (Soundaktor)

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



The Fiesta ST has a sound symposer (plastic tube with diaphragm that leads to the cabin), but at least it’s real engine sound and not on the speakers.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Dr. Lunchables posted:

The Fiesta ST has a sound symposer (plastic tube with diaphragm that leads to the cabin), but at least it’s real engine sound and not on the speakers.

if the FiST’s symposer is cheating then so is a resonator/muffler

latinotwink1997
Jan 2, 2008

Taste my Ball of Hope, foul dragon!


devicenull posted:

Hello from VW world, where there's an entire component to simulate engine noise (Soundaktor)

I disabled this as soon as I found out about it.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

latinotwink1997 posted:

I disabled this as soon as I found out about it.

the new BRZ/86 have one too

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Hey does there exist for cars a thing like a... I don't know, I am imagining a self-retracting strap that you can pull out and loop around grocery bags or whatever in your trunk. Almost like a seat belt but for groceries (and stuff). Something you can buy and screw into the sides of the trunk area.

My Mazda 6 has got something like this from factory but it's not very long, but I can still use it to make sure grocery bags don't go flying around back there. It's been super handy. Now I got a lot of trunk space in my 900 but things like to slosh about back there easily.

I'm sure there's a product or several for this, I just don't know what to google for.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

His Divine Shadow posted:

Hey does there exist for cars a thing like a... I don't know, I am imagining a self-retracting strap that you can pull out and loop around grocery bags or whatever in your trunk. Almost like a seat belt but for groceries (and stuff). Something you can buy and screw into the sides of the trunk area.

My Mazda 6 has got something like this from factory but it's not very long, but I can still use it to make sure grocery bags don't go flying around back there. It's been super handy. Now I got a lot of trunk space in my 900 but things like to slosh about back there easily.

I'm sure there's a product or several for this, I just don't know what to google for.

Try looking up 'cargo net' or 'luggage net'.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
I have this thing in my Golf which is pretty dope (it's the OEM version). It also came with a fuzzier mat that adheres better.
https://www.amazon.com/Multipurpose-Cargo-Organizer-Storage-Available/dp/B06VVPWSXM

The good thing with something like this is that you don't have to install hooks or attach anything.

I find this to be better at holding things like grocery bags in place than the net in my M5 which looks like this

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I was thinking more of straps like this, My idea is something like this attached to the side, you just pull it out and loop it around the grocery bags, or perhaps around the loops of the bags, and then back to an attachment point. You could have several straps or attachment points and really strap in just about anything, not just groceries and when not in use it retracts automatically to the side and isn't in the way.

https://loadall.com/products/g3-cargobuckle-2-pack

I really feel I am onto something here.

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.
I like that idea. My BMW is straps kinda like that and are super useful, but they're on a bar that goes across the trunk and needs to be removed if I put something bigger in there. Half the time it's a convinent divider, half the time it's just flopping around in the trunk.



(I guess I can put it in the storage under the bottom of the trunk, but it's always cover by something heavy when I remember that exists.)

Head Bee Guy
Jun 12, 2011

Retarded for Busting
Grimey Drawer
Horn in my 2012 tsx isn’t blowing. What diagnostic order should I go in? check the fuse first? if that ain’t it, then what?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
THeres probably a ground wire, or the horn is grounded to the chassis itself somewhere. Check/clean that.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

THeres probably a ground wire, or the horn is grounded to the chassis itself somewhere. Check/clean that.

arent horns usually actuated by ground? like, hot (fused) wire straight to the horn, then trigger by grounding the wire through the steering column

maybe cars with relays do something different?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Raluek posted:

arent horns usually actuated by ground? like, hot (fused) wire straight to the horn, then trigger by grounding the wire through the steering column

maybe cars with relays do something different?

I have no idea, but if thats the case, after checking the fuse, they could check for power at the horn with a test light.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Test at the wheel switch too. Typically the clockspring fails.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
I asked about this problem last year, so it may seem familiar to some : 2014 Silverado 1500 WT, AC not blowing cold air. The fix at the time was the mechanic reaching up and nudging some mixing blend door into position, and telling me not to turn it to defrost, because it would probably break again (he's a good mechanic and offered to do the proper fix, I was just cash strapped).

Well, winter came, I used the defrost, and yet, it still blew cold air come summer. Until a week ago, when I threw it on defrost during some rain, and now it's blowing warm air again.

I took the dash apart, and the mode actuator seems to work fine, the temperature actuator seems to work fine, and the recirculate/don't recirculate actuator seems to work fine. Like, I can watch all 3 go through what looks like a full range of motion. Is there a 4th blend door that I'm missing somewhere?

To be clear, air always comes out of whatever vents I direct it to, it's just warm now. Google just consistently brings up some other common blend door issue that isn't the same as mine, otherwise I'd be following along to a YouTube video right now. It is of course a possibility it's not the blend door this time, but I had the compressor replaced last year, and the blend door is a known faulty part.

Slugworth fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Aug 19, 2023

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
Can you trade in a car at a dealership for credit to a new one? I need to replace my gas guzzler with a more efficient car but I don't have enough money to buy the new one first and then sell the old one.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yes, that's one of the biggest ways dealerships make money - lowballing your trade and selling it for a small profit at auction with zero effort, or cleaning it up and selling it for a major markup on the lot. You might also get some relief on the sales tax on the car you're buying since at least some states charge sales tax on the net purchase price if you're trading in a vehicle.

Get baseline offers from Carmax / Carvana / other "we'll buy your car even if you don't buy from us" places so you already have a worst-case number before you negotiate with the dealer you are buying from.

big trivia FAIL
May 9, 2003

"Jorge wants to be hardcore,
but his mom won't let him"

How much am I going to spend: a buttload or an rear end-ton?

2018 Mazda 6 Grand Touring Reserve, 30K miles.

Never given me a single problem. Replaced the battery with a Group 35 AGM on 11/16/2022.

Starting Monday of this week, it would at least once a day, when shifting into reverse or drive after sitting flash "Charging System Malfunction" and then it would go away and drive perfectly fine. This didn't happen every time, but did happen at least one time a day. The battery read fine on a multimeter (12.6v) and at idle it was reading 13.1-13.4, a little low, so I'm thinking alternator.

I took it to the dealer Friday. All day they looked at it, said it isn't throwing any codes, it must be the 9 month old battery.

So, I picked it up this morning, got a refund on the battery and got a new one and put it in. Drove the car for about 45 minutes and went home. About 20 minutes later, I was going to run to the store. Cranked the car, put it in reverse, and was backing out of my garage. It went 100% dead. There is zero electrical. It will not even jump off. It is sitting in my driveway just dead as poo poo.

The dealer is supposed to call me Monday to schedule a tow.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

CarMax is often the best price, too, since they deal in such volume. Bonus points if your car is a Toyota or Honda, and not a Nissan. CarMax will give you a written quote that you can use to get a similar price at another dealership but that starts getting deep into negotiation skill territory

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

big trivia FAIL posted:

How much am I going to spend: a buttload or an rear end-ton?

2018 Mazda 6 Grand Touring Reserve, 30K miles.

Never given me a single problem. Replaced the battery with a Group 35 AGM on 11/16/2022.

Starting Monday of this week, it would at least once a day, when shifting into reverse or drive after sitting flash "Charging System Malfunction" and then it would go away and drive perfectly fine. This didn't happen every time, but did happen at least one time a day. The battery read fine on a multimeter (12.6v) and at idle it was reading 13.1-13.4, a little low, so I'm thinking alternator.

I took it to the dealer Friday. All day they looked at it, said it isn't throwing any codes, it must be the 9 month old battery.

So, I picked it up this morning, got a refund on the battery and got a new one and put it in. Drove the car for about 45 minutes and went home. About 20 minutes later, I was going to run to the store. Cranked the car, put it in reverse, and was backing out of my garage. It went 100% dead. There is zero electrical. It will not even jump off. It is sitting in my driveway just dead as poo poo.

The dealer is supposed to call me Monday to schedule a tow.

Have you checked the battery terminals? Sorry but you didn't mention it so I'm not sure. What do you mean by jump off? Like jump start with power from another car?

Could be a main fuse issue also, sounds like something is breaking the circuit. If your car was older or super rusty I'd say to take a look at the grounds too.

big trivia FAIL
May 9, 2003

"Jorge wants to be hardcore,
but his mom won't let him"

VelociBacon posted:

Have you checked the battery terminals? Sorry but you didn't mention it so I'm not sure. What do you mean by jump off? Like jump start with power from another car?

Could be a main fuse issue also, sounds like something is breaking the circuit. If your car was older or super rusty I'd say to take a look at the grounds too.
good questions - no corrosion. I'm in the southeast so we get humidity but no rust or any other nastiness. everything is clean like it came off of the showroom. I'm almost positive the voltage regulator in the alternator shot too high of a current to the PCM/ECU, but I'm not a mechanic


and yes, can't jump start with another car or with a kit. it just sits there dead. the battery on a multimeter is currently reading 13v

big trivia FAIL fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Aug 20, 2023

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe
Was checking out the spark plugs I'm going to be replacing this week. The box fell over and dumped a 3 of the 4 on the garage floor still in their individual boxes. I looked and didn't see any cracks. Are they still good to use or do I just eat the loss and buy another set?

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber

fknlo posted:

Was checking out the spark plugs I'm going to be replacing this week. The box fell over and dumped a 3 of the 4 on the garage floor still in their individual boxes. I looked and didn't see any cracks. Are they still good to use or do I just eat the loss and buy another set?

They got tossed around in flimsy cardboard boxes all the way from China. They can handle a drop on the ground. Just check the gaps

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

fknlo posted:

Was checking out the spark plugs I'm going to be replacing this week. The box fell over and dumped a 3 of the 4 on the garage floor still in their individual boxes. I looked and didn't see any cracks. Are they still good to use or do I just eat the loss and buy another set?

Totally fine to use, if you have a gap checker check them but I wouldn't be too worried at all (especially if your car isn't turbo/supercharged).

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

Slugworth posted:

I asked about this problem last year, so it may seem familiar to some : 2014 Silverado 1500 WT, AC not blowing cold air. The fix at the time was the mechanic reaching up and nudging some mixing blend door into position, and telling me not to turn it to defrost, because it would probably break again (he's a good mechanic and offered to do the proper fix, I was just cash strapped).

Well, winter came, I used the defrost, and yet, it still blew cold air come summer. Until a week ago, when I threw it on defrost during some rain, and now it's blowing warm air again.

I took the dash apart, and the mode actuator seems to work fine, the temperature actuator seems to work fine, and the recirculate/don't recirculate actuator seems to work fine. Like, I can watch all 3 go through what looks like a full range of motion. Is there a 4th blend door that I'm missing somewhere?

To be clear, air always comes out of whatever vents I direct it to, it's just warm now. Google just consistently brings up some other common blend door issue that isn't the same as mine, otherwise I'd be following along to a YouTube video right now. It is of course a possibility it's not the blend door this time, but I had the compressor replaced last year, and the blend door is a known faulty part.

Easiest/cheapest fix: your refrigerant could just need a recharge. Buy a can with a pressure gauge on it, hook it up to your low side (with the car on and AC on the lowest temp / highest blower speed) and check your PSI.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



eddiewalker posted:

They got tossed around in flimsy cardboard boxes all the way from China. They can handle a drop on the ground. Just check the gaps

Honestly might not even need to do that, they tend to come with little cardboard tubes to protect the business end from exactly this sort of thing. At least all the NGKs I've bought over the years came with that.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe

VelociBacon posted:

Totally fine to use, if you have a gap checker check them but I wouldn't be too worried at all (especially if your car isn't turbo/supercharged).

It is turbocharged. They still have the cardboard things on the electrode end and it wasn't that far of a fall. I was more concerned about the unprotected insulator end since I know that drops can cause cracks.

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Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Easiest/cheapest fix: your refrigerant could just need a recharge. Buy a can with a pressure gauge on it, hook it up to your low side (with the car on and AC on the lowest temp / highest blower speed) and check your PSI.
I'm gonna swing by an AutoZone and grab a pressure manifold, but:

:(

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