|
Artisan guild is one of the few creators that have presupported minis I trust to print ok.
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2023 00:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 21:04 |
|
|
Fabelzel (28mm Chaos Dwarf proxies) has been absolutely fantastic but I'm generally skeptical. My current workflow is to tip 45 degrees back and then rotate the figure so any gun/outstretched arm as close to vertical as possible, then use Lychee 'I'm feeling Lucky' without auto-orientation. So far (touch wood) that's given me good results. I'm going to try to print some supportless smaller figures, so that'll be interesting to try!
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2023 12:39
|
|
|
CHaKKaWaKka posted:If I resize a pre-supported model by 20%, is it likely to gently caress up the supports in a major way? If were scaling down by a significant ratio, like down to 30% of the original size, I'd resupport. But 20%? I wouldn't give it a second thought and just hit GO.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2023 17:30
|
|
|
Southern Heel posted:Fabelzel (28mm Chaos Dwarf proxies) has been absolutely fantastic but I'm generally skeptical. My current workflow is to tip 45 degrees back and then rotate the figure so any gun/outstretched arm as close to vertical as possible, then use Lychee 'I'm feeling Lucky' without auto-orientation. So far (touch wood) that's given me good results. I'm going to try to print some supportless smaller figures, so that'll be interesting to try! That almost exactly my workflow for supports. I've only had a couple of minis die from this minus the FEP on my creality machine sticking to everything.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2023 00:28
|
|
|
Tabletop STLs have been great for letting me learn Blender for 3D printing. Getting some piece of poo poo WW2 tank that's actually 7 separate meshes bungled together is making me really appreciate good models made with an eye towards printing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2023 05:58
|
|
|
Yeah, the early days of thingiverse were an uncharted wasteland of people posting files that would never be printable without a lot of fixing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2023 11:48
|
|
|
I am looking at a series of supportless prints - they come in small strips of 4 figures, or single based. I need strips of 6 and I am finding myself doing the very thing I promised myself that I wouldn't do - farting around in 3D modelling software to make it work. Splitting, merging, creating undercuts for separation from the build plate then cleaning up vertices, non-manifold faces, etc. etc. How important is creating that undercut? Most of the recent stuff I've printed has either been on rafts, or with that undercut provided as part of the print. I've added one to the grenadiers in the left, but the figures as supplied by the modeller (Henry Turner) do not have one:  My gut feeling is to scale these to about 5-10% undersize so that each strip fits on a 1" wide base and just call it a day. You can see how the grenadier mesh is being simplified in order to get it under the file size limit for TinkerCAD so I'm not wild about doing this all myself. I don't really have time to learn Blender to do it locally, unless someone is going to tell me it's absolutely trivial?
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2023 14:46
|
|
|
Southern Heel posted:I am looking at a series of supportless prints - they come in small strips of 4 figures, or single based. I need strips of 6 and I am finding myself doing the very thing I promised myself that I wouldn't do - farting around in 3D modelling software to make it work. Splitting, merging, creating undercuts for separation from the build plate then cleaning up vertices, non-manifold faces, etc. etc. Lychee has an elephant's foot compensation setting that night do the trick for you here. I think these small scales tend to be added to inserted into a slightly larger base after the fact, so that might be worth a consideration too? Then your not mucking around with specifics and can just hide it in your basing material Is scale important at all or just strips of 6? Any reason you couldn't chop it in half and have a bunch of strips of 4 and 2?
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2023 15:36
|
|
|
The scale at this point is largely notional, but I want to have a 40mm base with the frontage relatively full. I sent a message to the creator and he linked me this video, which seems like a good deal of a better idea than what I was planning.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuIyNlsQrUc
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2023 16:08
|
|
|
Uhh I've completely blanked on the how, but I know it was possible in Chitubox when doing supports. You could generate a thin raft, size it so it is very slightly smaller than the horizontal area, and have the wall setting so it slopes up and away from the plate, that outward slope meets up with the model's actual base leaving an undercut. You just have to play with thickness settings to make sure there isn't a cavity.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2023 16:14
|
|
|
Southern Heel posted:I am looking at a series of supportless prints - they come in small strips of 4 figures, or single based. I need strips of 6 and I am finding myself doing the very thing I promised myself that I wouldn't do - farting around in 3D modelling software to make it work. Splitting, merging, creating undercuts for separation from the build plate then cleaning up vertices, non-manifold faces, etc. etc. If you are printing on the plate directly you could overlap two stands by just a hair and have exactly one half of one go outside the print area.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2023 18:37
|
|
|
Hello thread~ I was at a convention this past weekend and seeing some of the creative stuff people were doing with these little figures using something called the Glyos system I kind of got a creative bug burning in my brain. I kind of wanna learn how to make my own figures but I have no idea where to begin. I like to think I'm a pretty okay artist but I have no experience with painting or sculpting miniatures and the like (traditional or 3d). So I guess I'm wondering if y'all have any tips for a pretty much stage 0 beginner? I appreciate any help you might have!
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2023 02:03
|
|
|
Good Listener posted:Hello thread~ I was at a convention this past weekend and seeing some of the creative stuff people were doing with these little figures using something called the Glyos system I kind of got a creative bug burning in my brain. Give Blender a try, it's free and powerful, but has a somewhat steep learning curve. I use it to sculpt and modify my own figures for X-Wing and Warhammer. Fortunatly there are a ton of free resources to learn, here's some that I used. Start with the basics of Blender, check this video out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIoXOplUvAw Then learn how to set it up and export items to appropriate formats for printing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROwdFy7HbA0 Then start looking for videos on what you want to model. I'm pretty fond of Imphenzia's stuff since I mostly make mechanical objects and his techniques are fast and easy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jHUY3qoBu8
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2023 02:23
|
|
|
I was cleaning off some warmaster prints off my build plate, into the old ice cream tub I've been using to wash them in (which is great, because they're big fuckin' plastic gallon tubs with lids), and I noticed that my scraper was catching on my build plate. Wiping it off with a paper towel, I kept trying to see if it was some resin that had hardened and gotten stuck, or something had misprinted, or whatever. After a minute of loving with it, I caught it with the corner of my scraper, and peeled up a little bit of plastic. Clear, adhesive plastic. Clear, adhesive plastic that was the protective film put on it for shipping, that I hadn't peeled off before printing like, 6 full units of spearmen.  Plus side, it didn't gently caress up my prints while it was on, and they fall off just as easily without it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2023 05:07
|
|
|
I'll second that Blender is likely what you're looking for. Youtube University is definitely the best resource for you and I'll shoutout Artisans of Vaul as another good channel for relevant tutorials when it comes to modelling (and, specifically, tabletop modelling) for 3D printing. https://www.youtube.com/@ArtisansofVaul
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2023 05:12
|
|
|
I will check this out, appreciate the help!
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2023 05:16
|
|
|
Bloody heck, I'm almost finished on my third litre of resin!Aniodia posted:Clear, adhesive plastic. Clear, adhesive plastic that was the protective film put on it for shipping, that I hadn't peeled off before printing like, 6 full units of spearmen. I did exactly this too - Mars 3 Pro? To be fair, it doesn't mention that plastic film in the instructions where everything else is detailed...
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2023 08:18
|
|
|
Southern Heel posted:Bloody heck, I'm almost finished on my third litre of resin! Regular Mars 3, but yeah, totally didn't even realize it was a thing until half a dozen prints in. The More You Know.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2023 05:23
|
|
|
I did the same with a mars 3 and lost my second print on it lol
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2023 17:47
|
|
|
Epic minis is offering a free model every day on their patreon. Shouldn't need to be a patron. https://www.patreon.com/posts/daily-free-model-87781443 Good way to see if you like their stuff.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2023 14:59
|
|
|
Welp. I've had my first ever self-distructing mini. I can only assume this was due to a batch of bad resin; I have older and larger minis that are holding up just fine. Heat shouldn't have been a factor since it was kept in a basement area that rarely gets above 72 degrees.  
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2023 02:10
|
|
|
Is there drain holes on that? I see that it's hollow but I can't spot any drain holes at those angles
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2023 02:27
|
|
|
Yeah the hardest rule I learned about resin printing is you have to get ALL of the uncured resin out of the hollow parts and get it really dry in there (shining a little UV flashlight in is even better). Uncured resin offgasses and if it's in a little pocket that's been glued up, kaboom
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2023 02:38
|
|
|
queeb posted:Is there drain holes on that? I see that it's hollow but I can't spot any drain holes at those angles There were, but they were on interior surfaces and wound up glued over. I thought I had it pretty well cleaned out but I went pretty heavy on internal supports so I probably left resin pockets.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2023 02:41
|
|
|
I like to print most tabletop things solid if possible, I think it is more expensive, yeah, but a lot less of a headache and effort to clean.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2023 05:46
|
|
|
Yeah i go solid when I can or just big honkin drain holes wherever I can get away with it on the model so I can be sure it's cured, and I snake a UV light in too, a little pen one
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2023 05:56
|
|
|
IncredibleIgloo posted:I like to print most tabletop things solid if possible, I think it is more expensive, yeah, but a lot less of a headache and effort to clean. That's my thinking as well, I'd rather use a bit more resin and be assured the model won't crack open because it wasn't fully cured on the inside.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2023 14:19
|
|
|
Such a shame, that was a nice paint job
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2023 17:09
|
|
|
queeb posted:Yeah i go solid when I can or just big honkin drain holes wherever I can get away with it on the model so I can be sure it's cured, and I snake a UV light in too, a little pen one any good recs on the uv light? I've been looking for one that's basically a little LED on a single wire, but all I get are standard pen lights.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2023 01:01
|
|
|
You make those by buying some UV LEDs off amazon and wiring one to a power source. It is the absolute least complicated electronics project in the universe. If I were to try to make one, I'd order some 3-5 volt LEDs and solder one onto a sacrificial USB cable. Maybe maybe if I felt fancy I'd print a battery case instead.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2023 01:18
|
|
|
My second print after installing a screen protector, a model stuck the FEP, no biggie. However when cleaning the tank, I noticed there was a film of cured resin most of the way across the FEP, apart from the edges and the top middle here where I peeled off the failure. It almost looks like a tank clean started after the print. The prints themselves came out ok ish, though some seem quite low res, and have a slight wobble to some of them, however I think that may be due to my flex plate magnet losing some adhesion to the main plate. Not sure. Anyone ever seen this? I've had my share of fails but cant figure out how this happened, and the remaining resin in the tank wasn't cured at all, so I don't think light got into the cover.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2023 12:37
|
|
|
did you reset you bed zero after the screen protector? I've had similar issues when my z zero was pushing the build plate too hard into the FEP and screen.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2023 21:24
|
|
|
I did reset the z=0 and level the plate after adding the screen protector yes, but not between the 2 prints I tried. The first one came out with no fails so I went straight to the next plate, hoping it would "just work" for once. I did it by swapping between flex plates, I'm not sure if theres maybe a slight difference in thickness between them because of some cured resin on them or something.. I cleaned them quite well beforehand with a scraper + IPA though. I did notice some of those "successful" first prints are slightly warped or had thick lines through them as if they shifted a bit during printing, despite having no outright fails. Not sure if it could be related.    (Note the wing with the lines through it is not the same one as the one with the warped connecting surface... but they were on the same plate. Not sure how I manage to get so many diverse issues from a single run  )
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2023 23:44
|
|
|
It sort of looks like a combination of bad zero setting, plus some sticking to the FEP and once you got the zero sorted out , the sticking is still an issue. That's what usually causes my warps and visible layer lines. The one machine that has those problems for me was fine until I installed a flex plate. I'm probably just gonna ng to times it off to see if it fixes it. This is another guess, but maybe the screen protector that you added is filtering some of the uv light, and you need to adjust your exposure settings to compensate.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2023 11:50
|
|
|
Anyone have any first-hand experience (or even 2nd hand, I guess!) with an AnyCubic Kobra 2? I am happy with my Mono 4k resin, but I don't know if there is a vast difference in quality between resin and filament printers from the same companies.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2023 20:52
|
|
|
Lumpy posted:Anyone have any first-hand experience (or even 2nd hand, I guess!) with an AnyCubic Kobra 2? I am happy with my Mono 4k resin, but I don't know if there is a vast difference in quality between resin and filament printers from the same companies. I had an original Anycubic Kobra and I was happy with it for the most part, but I tried Elegoo Neptune line and prefer them. I think you can get a Neptune 4 pro for 40 more than the Kobra 2 and I would go with the Neptune 4 Pro. I am really happy with mine.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2023 21:46
|
|
|
I was thinking of getting a Neptune. It would be my first FDM printer, what's a good cheap and reliable filament brand like Sunlu is to resin? Would mostly be printing mini bases and terrain.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2023 23:01
|
|
|
Elegoo's filament is pretty cheap on Amazon and I've been burning through rolls of it with very little, if any, issues.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2023 23:02
|
|
|
Rad-daddio posted:
Sorry I presume that last sentence got mangled by auto correct, as google returns nothing. Increase lift times...? Or just take it off? Or something else? Thank you! (Also, is your problem machine also a Mars 3 Pro?) Adding the flex plates was really great at the start compared to chipping everything off with a scraper, and many prints came out fine. But I think the magnet maybe started to lose adhesion to the actual plate, which may be a factor I guess. I'll probably try removing it for next time also. Being able to swap plates and start printing again immediately while you pop everything off the first is great but in the end I might just get a second actual build plate and go back to scraping if it's causing issues.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2023 07:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 21:04 |
|
|
Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:Sorry I presume that last sentence got mangled by auto correct, as google returns nothing. Increase lift times...? Or just take it off? Or something else? Thank you! (Also, is your problem machine also a Mars 3 Pro?) lol yeah autocorrect ftw. but yeah I ended up taking the flex plate off and releveling and resetting the build plate zero. It worked great for one print, then it was back to sticking to the FEP again. I still got a finished print, but I could see where there were layer lines due to the sticking also I could hear a "thonk" every time the build plate came up. The printer in question is a Creality LD-200R. I bought it back during the pandemic, and as luck would have it I ended up using it mostly for making delicate flexure prototypes for a company that makes atomic force microscopes. I let it sit for awhile, and then when I got back into printing it's giving me nothing but problems.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2023 14:09
|
|