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BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Motronic posted:

So put in a threshold unless you're rolling things in and out of that space. Otherwise you're bound for a not-so-great looking hack (or higher effort like taking the door off to add to the bottom) to make up a decent amount of that gap so a normal sweep will cover the rest.

But.... I don't wanna!

Ok fine. But I'm using concrete glue and not drilling.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

BonoMan posted:

Ok fine. But I'm using concrete glue and not drilling.

I mean....it's outdoor storage. If you really need to get it up later you can just cut the linoleum or whatever that flooring is that you glued it to. It's really the path of least resistance for the outcome you're looking for.

Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



Kylaer posted:

Going back to door lock chat, I'm getting a new front door and it doesn't come with hardware. What should I buy in terms of handle and deadbolt? I want quality, this is presumably a one-time purchase and it's not something where I'm trying to save pennies. I don't want a remote controlled/app-controlled lock.

There's plenty of pick proof locks on the market, go with something that matches the style of the door. I did Yale myself, and got a set that matches the rest of the handles inside the house. If you really want high security, there's a list here of cylinders that Reddit calls "high security", but honestly it isn't going to matter vs what you can find in a Lowes Depot.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
Not necessarily pick-proof (if someone's determined enough to get into my house that they're willing to pick a lock, I'm guessing they're also willing to break a window) but something solid and durable. The handle that's on there right now feels cheap and rattly.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer
We went with this one - https://www.emtek.com/all-products/door-hardware/front-door-entry-sets/tubular-entry-sets/stainless-steel-davos-style/

Feels nice and solid, was about $300. We've got all Emtek stuff on the interior doors as well, appears to be holding up just fine.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!

devicenull posted:

We went with this one - https://www.emtek.com/all-products/door-hardware/front-door-entry-sets/tubular-entry-sets/stainless-steel-davos-style/

Feels nice and solid, was about $300. We've got all Emtek stuff on the interior doors as well, appears to be holding up just fine.

Oh, that looks very nice. I like their Apollo handle set, it has a slightly different shape than the one you bought.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Motronic posted:

I mean....it's outdoor storage. If you really need to get it up later you can just cut the linoleum or whatever that flooring is that you glued it to. It's really the path of least resistance for the outcome you're looking for.

It's all concrete flooring. It's just the storeroom on our parking pad/portico

Tunicate
May 15, 2012

Just found out that the PO installed a toilet by half-cutting thru a joist to make way for a pipe, then realized he didn't actually need to do that.

Found this out because we thought the wax seal was leaking a little, so had it replaced. Did a test flush afterwards and a ton of water came out, seems like actually the flange leaks, replacing the seal made it worse, and gonna have to replace the whole shebang.

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
I’m asking for trouble if I try to drill a 1” hole for a lockset into the side of a 1.25” thick door, right?

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Tunicate posted:

Just found out that the PO installed a toilet by half-cutting thru a joist to make way for a pipe, then realized he didn't actually need to do that.

Found this out because we thought the wax seal was leaking a little, so had it replaced. Did a test flush afterwards and a ton of water came out, seems like actually the flange leaks, replacing the seal made it worse, and gonna have to replace the whole shebang.

Was this bathroom decked out in grey tile and red trim with the toilet in a separate closet perhaps?

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

Tunicate posted:

Just found out that the PO installed a toilet by half-cutting thru a joist to make way for a pipe, then realized he didn't actually need to do that.

Found this out because we thought the wax seal was leaking a little, so had it replaced. Did a test flush afterwards and a ton of water came out, seems like actually the flange leaks, replacing the seal made it worse, and gonna have to replace the whole shebang.

Ouch sorry friend. We just discovered today our main toilet is only secured by one bolt, the other is not secured to the flange.

Now I'm feeling like we got off lucky.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Toebone posted:

I’m asking for trouble if I try to drill a 1” hole for a lockset into the side of a 1.25” thick door, right?

Is it though? Standard resi doors are 1 3/8" and te 1" bore standard. Use a jig from the hardware store.

Salvor_Hardin
Sep 13, 2005

I want to go protest.
Nap Ghost
I've had minor sewer issues due to root ingress since buying my house 8 years ago . This has historically meant getting a sewer backup every 18 months or so and having to get a guy to come snake it out.

It's gotten more frequent; I've had to snake it 4 times in the last 12 months which is getting untenable. I had a guy do a camera inspection and there was no structural damage but lots of root clusters that the blades of the snake weren't very effective at clearing.

I got quoted for a sleeve installation which is supposed to be a permanent solution, basically coating the inside of the pipe with a PVC liner. Only problem is it would cost about $10k which is doable but enough that I want to consider other options.

I've been looking into chemical herbicide that you flush down a toilet to both clear existing roots and prevent further growth. It looks like there's some more benign formulations that use salt + baking soda and more aggressive ones that use copper sulfate or Dichlobenil.

I guess I wanted to know if anyone has any experience or expertise with any of these options. My current idea is to try out the safest herbicide to start and see how that goes. If that proves ineffective I can up the potency or just go for the sleeve.

Thanks in advance

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

None of those are likely to be a real solution.

The "other option" is excavation. Without knowing the run and your yard and what might be in the way there's no saying if that would cost more or less than $10k but you should probably find out.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Salvor_Hardin posted:


It's gotten more frequent; I've had to snake it 4 times in the last 12 months which is getting untenable. I had a guy do a camera inspection and there was no structural damage but lots of root clusters that the blades of the snake weren't very effective at clearing.


We brought in a contractor at work to diagnose issues with our drainage system and they had no issue absolutely destroying a mass of roots at multiple points inside of a 12" pipe. When they were done the concrete pipe was so clean it looked like freshly poured concrete. They said it was so powerful that it had liquified a dead racoon on a previous job that was stuck in a root ball. Maybe we were lucky and they could bust out the big gun chopper because we had a concrete drain pipe? We had to sign a bunch of waivers that said they weren't responsible if our piping all collapsed though.

slave to my cravings
Mar 1, 2007

Got my mind on doritos and doritos on my mind.

Yooper posted:

They said it was so powerful that it had liquified a dead racoon on a previous job that was stuck in a root ball.
lmao what the gently caress

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


If the roots are getting into the pipe then the pipe is already compromised.

My parents had an issue of tree roots getting into their sewer line at their house and they tried for years to avoid having to dig up the yard and run a new line. The drain treatments bought them a couple years, but those years still had occasional backups at the worst possible times (like when family visits for the holidays) and the end result was still the same. Based on that experience I would go ahead and pay to have the drain pipe fixed if it won't be a financial problem.

I understand that those resin liners are pretty great, as long as your drain doesn't have any issues with slope.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Salvor_Hardin posted:

I've been looking into chemical herbicide that you flush down a toilet to both clear existing roots and prevent further growth. It looks like there's some more benign formulations that use salt + baking soda and more aggressive ones that use copper sulfate or Dichlobenil.
Here is the thing. When you're dealing with tree roots, a tiny fraction of the tree's root ball is actually within range of the herbicide in your pipe. Assuming (big assumption) you successfully kill that fraction of the roots, the tree still has healthy roots surrounding the pipe. It's going to start sending root tendrils right back in, and when those tendrils hit water and fertilizer, they're going to grow. You need a long-term solution, because this is a long-term problem.

Also, people planting willows in suburban yards should be shot at dawn.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Motronic posted:

None of those are likely to be a real solution.

The "other option" is excavation. Without knowing the run and your yard and what might be in the way there's no saying if that would cost more or less than $10k but you should probably find out.

Seems like a sleeve installation is not, as I'd initially assumed, the same as trenchless pipe bursting replacement. House I bought before this one, any transfer of ownership was required to come with a passing pressure test of the sewer lateral, and ours failed, so we had to have it repaired/replaced. We did a trenchless replacement. Could that be an option more durable than a sleeve installation but less costly than a full excavation?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Steve French posted:

Could that be an option more durable than a sleeve installation but less costly than a full excavation?

Sure, but we're back to specifics about the job and the area this person is in. Trenchless doesn't mean excavationless - you still need to get the pipe in there, you're just not trenching the whole way. And not everywhere is going to have someone to do that type of job at a reasonable cost.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Motronic posted:

Sure, but we're back to specifics about the job and the area this person is in. Trenchless doesn't mean excavationless - you still need to get the pipe in there, you're just not trenching the whole way. And not everywhere is going to have someone to do that type of job at a reasonable cost.

Sure, that's why I qualified it with "less costly than a full excavation"; just wanted to bring it up as something for him to look into as opposed to just going straight to getting a quote for trenching the entire thing.

Unrelated to that: I'm doing defensible space work on my property and have a possibly dumb question. I've got stacked firewood from the previous owner (we basically only use it when the power is out so we've only gone through ~1/4th of what he had stacked when we bought the place 4 years ago) against a shed adjacent to our garage. He had tarps strapped covering the wood pile, and last year one of them got pretty shredded from some combination of storms and UV, so I replaced it. That one is already toast, presumably from some combination of the same and maybe not being as tightly secured with some of the wood gone so it flapped around a bit more.

Now I've got a fuckload of shredded vinyl tarp everywhere and I hate it. I do, however, need to replace it, with a fire retardant tarp. And the quick failure of this one left me wondering if I just got a shittier replacement tarp than he did, or if it was just that I secured it worse, and if there are better alternatives. So: very specific tarp question: should I just buy a real heavy duty vinyl tarp and hope it holds up better, or perhaps consider a fire retardant treated canvas tarp? I'm looking at options here, for example, linked from my local FD: https://www.tarpsnow.com/fire-resistant-tarps.html

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!

Yooper posted:

We brought in a contractor at work to diagnose issues with our drainage system and they had no issue absolutely destroying a mass of roots at multiple points inside of a 12" pipe. When they were done the concrete pipe was so clean it looked like freshly poured concrete. They said it was so powerful that it had liquified a dead racoon on a previous job that was stuck in a root ball.

:hellyeah:

Is this a mechanical solution or a chemical solution?

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
My parents had an access pipe installed so they could have the line serviced without additional digging or people inside the house.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Steve French posted:

Seems like a sleeve installation is not, as I'd initially assumed, the same as trenchless pipe bursting replacement. House I bought before this one, any transfer of ownership was required to come with a passing pressure test of the sewer lateral, and ours failed, so we had to have it repaired/replaced. We did a trenchless replacement. Could that be an option more durable than a sleeve installation but less costly than a full excavation?

At least when I had it quoted around a year ago, bursting was *more* expensive because they needed to dig in the street to get to one end of the pipe (along with all the costs that come with that, including traffic control, inspections, repaving, etc).

CIPP (what he's calling a sleeve) was cheaper, because they were able to line to within a foot or so of the sewer main only having to dig a hole in our yard.

Salvor_Hardin posted:

It's gotten more frequent; I've had to snake it 4 times in the last 12 months which is getting untenable. I had a guy do a camera inspection and there was no structural damage but lots of root clusters that the blades of the snake weren't very effective at clearing.

I got quoted for a sleeve installation which is supposed to be a permanent solution, basically coating the inside of the pipe with a PVC liner. Only problem is it would cost about $10k which is doable but enough that I want to consider other options.

You mentioned a camera - are the roots only showing up in one place? If so, it might be feasible to just dig up that one area and replace the broken part. I'd imagine this to be a lot less then $10k if it's accessible.

I paid $16k for 113 ft of CIPP... so $10k doesn't really surprise me.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
166' of rear privacy fence suuuuuucks, that was a hell of a lot of work. At least using form tubes made setting the four posts easier. I'll wait until the heat wave breaks before I get the stain on.



I still need to do about the same amount of work on the other end of the fence but it can wait. :negative:

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Salvor_Hardin posted:

I've had minor sewer issues due to root ingress since buying my house 8 years ago . This has historically meant getting a sewer backup every 18 months or so and having to get a guy to come snake it out.

It's gotten more frequent; I've had to snake it 4 times in the last 12 months which is getting untenable. I had a guy do a camera inspection and there was no structural damage but lots of root clusters that the blades of the snake weren't very effective at clearing.

Have you had it hydro jetted? Because if not this person is ripping you off. A hydrojet will clear all the roots out and get you down to the point of where the super toxic copper sulfate or rootx can keep you under control. You need to keep on top of it though - set 6 month calendar entries and have someone out to scope it every 12 months until you get an idea of what is going on, then extend to 18, 24, etc.

Otherwise sleeve it.

If these people are coming by and only snaking it without refusing until you hydrojet it after the first time their system didn't clear the roots fire them.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


:iiam:

We're going to have to have septic work done, and code requires the new system handle N gallons of water use per bedroom. I am probably stating that imprecisely, at best: the issue is that how much waste the septic system is required to handle is a multiple of the number of bedrooms. So I called the county tax assessor to find out how many bedrooms we have on record. (It's ambiguous, because one of the three upstairs rooms doesn't have a closet, and I wasn't sure how to count it.)

The assessor tells me we have 1 2/3 bedrooms. That's 1.6666. The one bedroom is on the ground floor. The two-thirds are upstairs.

Does anybody have guesses how this could have come about? I know there have been renovations to at least one of the upstairs rooms, reducing its size to put in a bathroom, but that's all I know. This is in California, but I don't know the right search terms to find California/Mendocino County standards defining what is a bedroom.

I went out and did some measurements. The smallest room has more than 70 square feet of floorspace, the smallest dimension is 8 feet, the ceiling is 7.5 feet, and the window is at least 6 sq. feet and is operable and can be used as an exit assuming you don't mind falling 12 feet. Yes, we do own an escape ladder somewhere.

Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Aug 21, 2023

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

I have a super old clay sewer pipe and when we first got out house we would have to call out someone to snake it at minimum once a year, sometimes twice. Then we started treating it with Rootx and honestly I can't recall the frequency of having backups but we haven't needed the line snaked since and if a backup does occur we treat it again and we're usually good to go.

I don't consider it a fix I just have quite a few big jobs ahead of new sewer line on our priority list.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


The Dave posted:

I don't consider it a fix I just have quite a few big jobs ahead of new sewer line on our priority list.
This is homeowner life in a nutshell. You will die or sell with a full to-do list.

More in my upstairs saga: Two of the upstairs rooms lack a 7.5 sq. foot openable area in their windows. The third I can't be sure of at the time of the appraisal, because the original windows have been replaced with giant double-pane windows and I don't know how large the operable area of the originals was.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Arsenic Lupin posted:

:iiam:

We're going to have to have septic work done, and code requires the new system handle N gallons of water use per bedroom. I am probably stating that imprecisely, at best: the issue is that how much waste the septic system is required to handle is a multiple of the number of bedrooms. So I called the county tax assessor to find out how many bedrooms we have on record. (It's ambiguous, because one of the three upstairs rooms doesn't have a closet, and I wasn't sure how to count it.)

The assessor tells me we have 1 2/3 bedrooms. That's 1.6666. The one bedroom is on the ground floor. The two-thirds are upstairs.

Does anybody have guesses how this could have come about? I know there have been renovations to at least one of the upstairs rooms, reducing its size to put in a bathroom, but that's all I know. This is in California, but I don't know the right search terms to find California/Mendocino County standards defining what is a bedroom.

I went out and did some measurements. The smallest room has more than 70 square feet of floorspace, the smallest dimension is 8 feet, the ceiling is 7.5 feet, and the window is at least 6 sq. feet and is operable and can be used as an exit assuming you don't mind falling 12 feet. Yes, we do own an escape ladder somewhere.

I have never heard of this. How many bedrooms do you think you have? Four?

Also, I would think that regardless of whatever weirdness is going on in the county records, if they've way under-counted your bedrooms you shouldn't just use that as an excuse to under-size your septic system. The septic system will know how many people are using it even if the county doesn't.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Muir posted:

I have never heard of this. How many bedrooms do you think you have? Four?

Also, I would think that regardless of whatever weirdness is going on in the county records, if they've way under-counted your bedrooms you shouldn't just use that as an excuse to under-size your septic system. The septic system will know how many people are using it even if the county doesn't.

Yea, size it based on what you think are bedrooms. And stop asking the county about it - you don't want them showing up and figuring out you have more bedrooms.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

devicenull posted:

Yea, size it based on what you think are bedrooms. And stop asking the county about it - you don't want them showing up and figuring out you have more bedrooms.

You do need to know what they think (i.e. have documented). What if they said 5? This would be a completely different conversation.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Muir posted:

I have never heard of this. How many bedrooms do you think you have? Four?

Also, I would think that regardless of whatever weirdness is going on in the county records, if they've way under-counted your bedrooms you shouldn't just use that as an excuse to under-size your septic system. The septic system will know how many people are using it even if the county doesn't.
In this case, we just wanted to know the letter of the law. I expect the contractor to size it appropriate to the use of the house; he just wanted to know the legal number of bedrooms, because it was up in the air whether one of the rooms upstairs counted. I was not expecting to find out that none of them did, at least not fully.

I genuinely wasn't sure how many bedrooms there were, because I believed (incorrectly) that a room had to have a closet to be a bedroom. I'd call it a 4 bedroom, 1 3/4 bath. Yes, 3/4, because there's a half bath plus a room that has only a shower in it.

Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Aug 21, 2023

Salvor_Hardin
Sep 13, 2005

I want to go protest.
Nap Ghost

devicenull posted:

At least when I had it quoted around a year ago, bursting was *more* expensive because they needed to dig in the street to get to one end of the pipe (along with all the costs that come with that, including traffic control, inspections, repaving, etc).

CIPP (what he's calling a sleeve) was cheaper, because they were able to line to within a foot or so of the sewer main only having to dig a hole in our yard.

You mentioned a camera - are the roots only showing up in one place? If so, it might be feasible to just dig up that one area and replace the broken part. I'd imagine this to be a lot less then $10k if it's accessible.

I paid $16k for 113 ft of CIPP... so $10k doesn't really surprise me.

The roots were all over the place. The last time we had it snaked the guy dislodged a backup, presumably TP caught on a root system at the bottom. He wasn't comfortable going past that point in case it was a partial collapse which could prevent the snake blade head from retracting if forced.

H110Hawk posted:

Have you had it hydro jetted? Because if not this person is ripping you off. A hydrojet will clear all the roots out and get you down to the point of where the super toxic copper sulfate or rootx can keep you under control. You need to keep on top of it though - set 6 month calendar entries and have someone out to scope it every 12 months until you get an idea of what is going on, then extend to 18, 24, etc.

Otherwise sleeve it.

If these people are coming by and only snaking it without refusing until you hydrojet it after the first time their system didn't clear the roots fire them.

Never heard of hydro jetting. This was never brought up among the 3-4 different guys I've worked with.

Thanks everyone for the perspectives.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Just got a quote to finish my tree job that was done a few weeks ago.

To summarize, I had two massive Lombardy poplars removed. 6' thick stumps and 120' tall, one of which is growing between a creek and 12" from my roof. The rest of the tree overhangs my house. The first crew dropped a saw on a ground person and hit the power lines when they removed a top, electrocuting the ground handler holding the rope and knocking out power for 150 homes. They brought in a new, more experienced crew to finish the job and reduced our price. They left pretty large stumps intact because they said they were unable to remove them safely without equipment they don't have. This is partly why they decreased the bid as they wouldn't be removing as much of the tree. We have a 6' thick stump that's still 12-15' high. The second stump over the house is still 15-20' high.

We had another company come to look at what's left and quote the removal. $10k which would bring the total cost to $24k, nearly as much as our top bid as they will need a crane to come in and remove the large trunks carefully given the proximity to the house. To accommodate the crane they will need to remove our entire hedge 10'H x50'L which I'm not a fan of as it gives us a lot of privacy.

It's fun they said. It's an "investment" they said.

:shepspends::retrogames:

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


I bet you could get a couple sick totem poles/sculptures made out of those stumps for a lot less than $10k that would also leave your hedge intact.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Verman posted:

Just got a quote to finish my tree job that was done a few weeks ago.

This story just keeps on getting worse. If they couldn't complete the job without a crane they should have brought in a crane from the beginning and avoided all of this other dangerous poo poo they did. Now you need a crane for what is likely less than their minimum on site billing time.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
15' tall is uh, not a stump. Shouldn't they be able to chainsaw them much smaller even chunks at a time? How did they drop a loving chainsaw, those are supposed to be strapped to the belt of the climber aren't they?

Also :stare: hit power lines + dropped chainsaw and nearly killed several people?

trevorreznik
Apr 22, 2023
How did they lower the highest limbs without using a crane?

trevorreznik fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Aug 22, 2023

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Eason the Fifth
Apr 9, 2020

Sirotan posted:

I bet you could get a couple sick totem poles/sculptures made out of those stumps for a lot less than $10k that would also leave your hedge intact.

:hmmyes:

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