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evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

That's some horrendous looking welding my gawhd

e: new page context


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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

evil_bunnY posted:

That's some horrendous looking welding my gawhd

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe
We grabbed our Moonlight Ramble packets tonight. We got bibs, which I wasn't expecting because it's not a race at all.

When I was there, the lady looked at me and told me that the jerseys are sized really small, so I should quickly try it on over my shirt. It fit find around my body, but it was really short, to the point that raising my arms would draw it up a lot. So, I went up a size, giving me a looser jersey. But, again, not a race. I'll be aero enough.

Gotta buy a zillion batteries tomorrow.

Nettle Soup
Jan 30, 2010

Oh, and Jones was there too.

evil_bunnY posted:

That's some horrendous looking welding my gawhd

I've only ever welded anything once, and I swear I could have done a better job than that, good lord.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Anyone have a recommended way of hiding an airtag in their bike? Any adhesive mounts or anything involved? Don't want it rattling in the seat tube.

Crumps Brother
Sep 5, 2007

-G-
Get Equipped with
Ground Game

blk posted:

Anyone have a recommended way of hiding an airtag in their bike? Any adhesive mounts or anything involved? Don't want it rattling in the seat tube.
Since I was already using bontrager bottle cages the mounts that hide in the gap between the cage and frame made the most sense to me. Those have worked out perfectly so far.
You could also use this as an excuse to get a power meter and purchase one of the new 4iiii PMs that have airtag capabilities built in to them.

Baconroll
Feb 6, 2009

blk posted:

Anyone have a recommended way of hiding an airtag in their bike? Any adhesive mounts or anything involved? Don't want it rattling in the seat tube.

I just use a bell that has a spot inside it for an airtag - still works as a normal bell.

osker
Dec 18, 2002

Wedge Regret
If your frame has an internal cable routing pa el under the BB, that is a great spot. I have one there and another one of those bottle cage jams.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

blk posted:

Anyone have a recommended way of hiding an airtag in their bike? Any adhesive mounts or anything involved? Don't want it rattling in the seat tube.

I’d just stick it under the saddle tbh, adhesive mounts are easy to find.

I have seen a sketchy looking system to hide one inside a foam insert in the tyre (tubeless only) but it seems dumb. https://off.road.cc/content/news/hide-airtags-inside-your-tyres-with-muc-offs-new-tag-holder-9989

Sphyre
Jun 14, 2001

wooger posted:

I’d just stick it under the saddle tbh, adhesive mounts are easy to find.

I have seen a sketchy looking system to hide one inside a foam insert in the tyre (tubeless only) but it seems dumb. https://off.road.cc/content/news/hide-airtags-inside-your-tyres-with-muc-offs-new-tag-holder-9989

I have one of these in my commuter, i'll keep you posted on what happens when I get a flat :c00lbert:

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

bicievino posted:

FWIW slamming my cleats back gave me some hip and saddle sore issues.
Not clear to me that ankling is a bad thing, but if you want to reduce it, lower your seat.

Short cranks is good, regardless. I'm on 165, debating trying out 160 or 155.

I think it goes without saying that moving the cleats back necessitates a lower saddle position. Lowering the saddle too much will cause the heel to drop through the peak power phase. Too high of a saddle position will keep riders on their tippy-toes, compensating at full extension by rocking side to side.

TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 12:14 on Aug 25, 2023

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Lex Neville posted:

of course :doh: my bad I misremembered and didn't think it through before posting, oops

Don’t worry, there actually is one niche group that lowers their saddles to go along with shorter cranks. Trendy time trialists. Shorter cranks means the knee won’t hit the tummy/chest at TDC, allowing for a lower saddle and marginally reducing frontal area.

TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 11:40 on Aug 25, 2023

Jestery
Aug 2, 2016


Not a Dickman, just a shape
Apocalypse bike comedy option
https://youtube.com/shorts/0Mk7odaRuFg?si=AJmEzfKH4FHdcWbr

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009
Grimey Drawer
At what distance is it necessary to add some sort of fuel to rides? I'm trying to increase how far I can ride. Last year I was able to break 40 miles, but I haven't done that length since. Normally riding 20-25 mi with 1500-2000 ft of elevation gain these days. I'm going to try for 30 flat miles today.

I recently realized I wasn't drinking enough water while riding, and I'm wondering if I should think of adding food as I start to increase the mileage.

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe
For anything 30 miles out over, I at least bring one snack.

charliebravo77
Jun 11, 2003

It's more about time and intensity than distance for me, if I'm going out for more than an hour and it's not just a leisurely ride I will always bring at least a gel or something, just in case. I have started using Tailwinds powder in my bottles for longer rides so I'm constantly fueling, but also bring a few gels or other energy sources with me too. My Garmin prompts me to eat 100 calories for every 300 I burn and if I'm going for a longer ride I generally will follow that advice.

Yeep
Nov 8, 2004
I generally don't take any food unless I'm going to be riding more than 90 minutes, or two hours if I'm going out just after a big breakfast. If I'm eating on a ride though it's important to start early, at 30-45 minutes and about every 30-45 minutes after that. Usually just a handful of nuts or jelly babies though. If I'm out for more than 4-5 hours I'll take a sandwich or wrap in my jersey for just over halfway.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Awkward Davies posted:

At what distance is it necessary to add some sort of fuel to rides? I'm trying to increase how far I can ride. Last year I was able to break 40 miles, but I haven't done that length since. Normally riding 20-25 mi with 1500-2000 ft of elevation gain these days. I'm going to try for 30 flat miles today.

I recently realized I wasn't drinking enough water while riding, and I'm wondering if I should think of adding food as I start to increase the mileage.

At a pleasant relaxed pace (for you, say zone 2) you can cycle for many hours without *needing* food, but will suffer more both on the ride and in recovery. To sustain a higher pace (zone 4 or whatever) for more than an hour or so, you’ll be quickly exhausting the glycogen in your muscles and need to fuel with pure carbs as often as possible, up to 130g per hour for the pros.

Table sugar tipped in your water, maybe 30-50g per 500ml bottle is the cheapest & easiest way to get carbs in without forgetting - some pre-made sports drinks mixes may be more convenient and less sweet, but that’s the cheapest way and will work fine for 40 milers.

Whatever you do, think: carb heavy, lowish on fat and protein. So oat based snack bars, gels, fruitbread is great, a big heavy meat pie less so.

It doesn’t matter too much if you’re not pushing yourself to your limit, so just eat something every 30 minutes or so.

It’s not just about while you’re riding, it’s about recovering faster and not being destroyed the evening / day after a long ride.

Ultra distance rides like 200 miles plus, once you’ve got the cycling base built up, are really mostly about eating enough of the right food the days prior and during the event to keep going happily.

dema
Aug 13, 2006

Yeep posted:

Usually just a handful of nuts or jelly babies though.

Nuts seem like they would be hard to digest.

And yeah, table sugar works really well for me.

Here is my nutrition from a 120 mile endurance ride I did last Saturday:







Plus, I started with two bottles of water, a Cliff caffeine gel and a Pop-Tart. And a hangover.

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009
Grimey Drawer

charliebravo77 posted:

It's more about time and intensity than distance for me, if I'm going out for more than an hour and it's not just a leisurely ride I will always bring at least a gel or something, just in case. I have started using Tailwinds powder in my bottles for longer rides so I'm constantly fueling, but also bring a few gels or other energy sources with me too. My Garmin prompts me to eat 100 calories for every 300 I burn and if I'm going for a longer ride I generally will follow that advice.

wooger posted:

At a pleasant relaxed pace (for you, say zone 2) you can cycle for many hours without *needing* food, but will suffer more both on the ride and in recovery. To sustain a higher pace (zone 4 or whatever) for more than an hour or so, you’ll be quickly exhausting the glycogen in your muscles and need to fuel with pure carbs as often as possible, up to 130g per hour for the pros.

Table sugar tipped in your water, maybe 30-50g per 500ml bottle is the cheapest & easiest way to get carbs in without forgetting - some pre-made sports drinks mixes may be more convenient and less sweet, but that’s the cheapest way and will work fine for 40 milers.

Whatever you do, think: carb heavy, lowish on fat and protein. So oat based snack bars, gels, fruitbread is great, a big heavy meat pie less so.

It doesn’t matter too much if you’re not pushing yourself to your limit, so just eat something every 30 minutes or so.

It’s not just about while you’re riding, it’s about recovering faster and not being destroyed the evening / day after a long ride.

Ultra distance rides like 200 miles plus, once you’ve got the cycling base built up, are really mostly about eating enough of the right food the days prior and during the event to keep going happily.

I don't have a reliable way to measure zones and heart rate at the moment (not sure if I want to spend the money for a smart watch or whatever). However, I ride to get a good workout and I tend to get kind of locked in to pushing myself as much as I can. In general I feel like if I'm not pushing myself on a ride, I'm failing (this is a personal problem).

I realized that drinking more water helped me avoid exertion headaches post-workout, so eating a little something like a cliff bar on a longer ride makes sense to me. When I did 40 miles last year I didn't eat anything, so it is possible I guess. I'm trying to lift 3x/week and ride 2x/week so recovery is important to me.

Thank you all for the advice :)

Serendipitaet
Apr 19, 2009
You can get excellent training out of low intensity rides that are easy to recover from. Your perceived exertion should be light to moderate and feel like you can still easily hold a conversation or breathe through your nose. This should correspond to heart rate zone 2, but it doesn’t really matter if you measure it or not.

On the fueling question, flipping it around, why would you not fuel during your ride? Assuming that you ride longer than an hour with at least a little effort (ie not just a leisure ride where you’re coasting half the time), i’d eat something. You will probably have a better time during and after if you do.

As others have said, bars work well and can be had for cheap. Also super cheap and easy is sugar in your bottle.

In the beginning, it felt super weird to me to just consume pure sugar (the sports drinks and gels dress it up with marketing language, but that’s what it boils down to), but if you are actively exerting yourself for an extended period of time, you are consuming more than you put in.

charliebravo77
Jun 11, 2003

Awkward Davies posted:

I don't have a reliable way to measure zones and heart rate at the moment (not sure if I want to spend the money for a smart watch or whatever). However, I ride to get a good workout and I tend to get kind of locked in to pushing myself as much as I can. In general I feel like if I'm not pushing myself on a ride, I'm failing (this is a personal problem).

I realized that drinking more water helped me avoid exertion headaches post-workout, so eating a little something like a cliff bar on a longer ride makes sense to me. When I did 40 miles last year I didn't eat anything, so it is possible I guess. I'm trying to lift 3x/week and ride 2x/week so recovery is important to me.

Thank you all for the advice :)

The more you ride the more you'll get a feeling for how much you've got left in the tank but HR/power can help inform that too. Weather, elevation, hydration, sleep, etc. can have a big impact too. Gels are light and compact so tossing one or two in your jersey as a little insurance is never a bad idea.

Krogort
Oct 27, 2013

charliebravo77 posted:

The more you ride the more you'll get a feeling for how much you've got left in the tank but HR/power can help inform that too.

On newer garmin there is a "stamina" feature that tend to estimate that for you, it decrease in 2 ways: one you can recover during the ride as you go easier and one that keeps going down untill you actualy rest. It even tell you how long you can go based on recent average power.
If you ride multiple days in a row and don't fully recover you start the ride at like 75% potential.



Here on the verge of bonking

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer
For what it's worth, I love my Garmin smartwatch for all sorts of activities. I have a Fenix 6X sapphire, which is indestructible and has ridiculous battery life, as well as most of the features of each of their specialized devices. The newer Fenix 7's have even more, but they are expensive as gently caress. The body battery, recovery/training analysis, sleep scores, etc. Are very accurate and I definitely use them to inform my exercise planning.

Having the mapping/navigation on my wrist while it tracks my HR, etc. Is super useful, and the integration with Strava is seamless. Hr zones get adjusted as you use the device and put in your info, and it's quick to reference the colour of each zone on your wrist as you're pedalling. 10/10 would recommend something like it, if you have the budget for it and like seeing numbers go up.

Yeep
Nov 8, 2004

dema posted:

Nuts seem like they would be hard to digest.

I've found salted cashews much easier to eat than peanuts, which turn to paste in my mouth. Nutrition is very personal though, I'll often mix in some Peanut M&Ms with my jelly babies if I'm doing a long solo ride which is a combination I'd never consider eating off the bike. I keep a Kendal Mint Cake stashed in my nutrition bag as well for emergencies. On a supported long distance triathlon I'll give my crew a much wider range of stuff including sausage rolls and mini scotch eggs.

There was a couple of years when I just took the rice cakes from the Feed Zone cookbook on all of my rides. They were nutritionally fine but I had so many I can't stand the sight of them any more.

charliebravo77
Jun 11, 2003

Krogort posted:

On newer garmin there is a "stamina" feature that tend to estimate that for you, it decrease in 2 ways: one you can recover during the ride as you go easier and one that keeps going down untill you actualy rest. It even tell you how long you can go based on recent average power.
If you ride multiple days in a row and don't fully recover you start the ride at like 75% potential.



Here on the verge of bonking


Huh. I've got a 1040 and had seen the stamina stats come through on Garmin Connect but didn't think about throwing it on a data screen. I'll have to play with that next ride and see how accurate it feels.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


My wife stumbled on a bunch of individual packs of dried cherries a while back and those are now a constant in my bike bag. They scratch the same itch as chewy candy like swedish fish or sour patch kids but (for me) don't get as sticky and hard to swallow under exertion as those candies do. I also like twizzlers since they're more waxy than they are chewy and sticky. I also grab a fistful of honey packets from the coffee shop I go to near my office, those have been a winner, although they make sticky trash when you're done sucking the honey out.

monsterzero
May 12, 2002
-=TOPGUN=-
Boys who love airplanes :respek: Boys who love boys
Lipstick Apathy

Awkward Davies posted:

I don't have a reliable way to measure zones and heart rate at the moment (not sure if I want to spend the money for a smart watch or whatever). However, I ride to get a good workout and I tend to get kind of locked in to pushing myself as much as I can. In general I feel like if I'm not pushing myself on a ride, I'm failing (this is a personal problem).

I realized that drinking more water helped me avoid exertion headaches post-workout, so eating a little something like a cliff bar on a longer ride makes sense to me. When I did 40 miles last year I didn't eat anything, so it is possible I guess. I'm trying to lift 3x/week and ride 2x/week so recovery is important to me.

Thank you all for the advice :)

Hey, new MTB rider here and I was riding like this but when it got above 90F this summer I kept getting wrecked. Drinking a lot more water and at least one electrolyte tablet per ride helped but picking up a Garmin 540 and heart rate strap was a huge improvement. Instead of climbing until failure I can see myself getting into zone 4 and throttle back. Since adding that I haven’t nuked
myself into being useless 2-24 hours post ride.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

Krogort posted:

On newer garmin there is a "stamina" feature that tend to estimate that for you, it decrease in 2 ways: one you can recover during the ride as you go easier and one that keeps going down untill you actualy rest. It even tell you how long you can go based on recent average power.
If you ride multiple days in a row and don't fully recover you start the ride at like 75% potential.



Here on the verge of bonking


that looks like an edge not a verge

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Krogort posted:

On newer garmin there is a "stamina" feature that tend to estimate that for you, it decrease in 2 ways: one you can recover during the ride as you go easier and one that keeps going down untill you actualy rest. It even tell you how long you can go based on recent average power.
If you ride multiple days in a row and don't fully recover you start the ride at like 75% potential.



Here on the verge of bonking


Not without a power meter though :arghfist:

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe
I'll prep the bikes tomorrow for the night ride.

Meanwhile, my wife, who I almost had to drag along to the Moonlight Ramble, has been watching videos and Ticked Tocks, and she's getting excited. She thought my lighting ideas were way over-the-top. Not anymore.

Cycling. Fun.

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009
Grimey Drawer

monsterzero posted:

Hey, new MTB rider here and I was riding like this but when it got above 90F this summer I kept getting wrecked. Drinking a lot more water and at least one electrolyte tablet per ride helped but picking up a Garmin 540 and heart rate strap was a huge improvement. Instead of climbing until failure I can see myself getting into zone 4 and throttle back. Since adding that I haven’t nuked
myself into being useless 2-24 hours post ride.

I’d probably just get an Apple Watch tbh. A bike computer is attractive but I don’t think I’ve passed the “serious cyclist” threshold to justify one.

On another topic, gravel worlds is happening in Nebraska right now and it looks wild. Someone I follow on socials posted his bike computer at mile 0, 299 miles to go. Insane.

corona familiar
Aug 13, 2021

Awkward Davies posted:

I’d probably just get an Apple Watch tbh. A bike computer is attractive but I don’t think I’ve passed the “serious cyclist” threshold to justify one.

On another topic, gravel worlds is happening in Nebraska right now and it looks wild. Someone I follow on socials posted his bike computer at mile 0, 299 miles to go. Insane.

I'd say a bike computer is worth it if you find yourself biking 10 mi/km or more outdoors consistently once a week or more and you want to track your stats. It's way easier (and thereby safer when riding) to start and navigate a dedicated device with physical buttons than a phone or watch, it keeps some useful info right in front of you, and you can avoid running down the battery on things that might be useful in an emergency

a decent bike computer is like the same price as an entry level smartwatch, so if you don't really care about smartwatch stuff a computer is imo the better buy

corona familiar fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Aug 26, 2023

monsterzero
May 12, 2002
-=TOPGUN=-
Boys who love airplanes :respek: Boys who love boys
Lipstick Apathy

Awkward Davies posted:

I’d probably just get an Apple Watch tbh. A bike computer is attractive but I don’t think I’ve passed the “serious cyclist” threshold to justify one.


Wrists kind of suck for tracking bikes, and heart rate while riding. My wife’s Fitbit is super inaccurate while she’s riding, low until she comes to a stop. Don’t have experience with Apple Watch tho, it’d expect it to be better but not as good as a chest strap.

Another thing that was surprisingly helpful to me was the cadence sensor. Seeing that I’m doing 65rpm would remind me to downshift (often two gears) when I was working but not hard enough to think I should downshift instinctively. That’s helped a lot with my endurance.

The amount of data it collects is a whole level beyond what I was getting from my iPhone/Strava, so if the gamification helps motivate you to exercise the way it does for me it’s worth considering. I get scores at the end of my ride and really motivates me to push / vary my training by ride.

I put it off for months bc of the cost but no regrets. It’s not cheap but it’s a upgrade I can use on multiple bikes, and if it doesn’t get used would be relatively easy to sell on. If you get serious, then you get the power meter.

Blackhawk
Nov 15, 2004

To pick back up again on the hooked vs. hookless rims for road bikes thing, just saw this video on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKzEpit1nvo

TLDR: They tested a conti GP5000 TR road tire which is rated to 72.5 psi on hookless rims and they blew off at 110 psi. The same tire on a hooked rim was fine up to 170 psi which was as high as they could go with the normal track pump they had.

The real worry as they mention in the video is that A) a ~50% margin on a tire blowing off the rim from maximum rated pressure is actually a pretty crappy safety margin and B) plenty of road cyclists are just used to pumping their tires up to 100 psi regardless of how much pressure they actually should run, so there's quite a risk of people having tires blow off their rims just doing what they've always done.

Obviously there have been hookless MTB rims for ages and I have hookless rims for my gravel bike, but they will never get run at pressures anywhere near high enough to blow a tire off. Hookless rims for road bikes is entirely a cost cutting measure by wheel manufacturers and genuinely seems like a bad and unsafe idea, even if technically it is possible to operate them safely.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
If they tested exactly one specimen of each type, I’m not going to draw any conclusions from it. I’d want to see at least a few different brands represented.

Blackhawk
Nov 15, 2004

kimbo305 posted:

If they tested exactly one specimen of each type, I’m not going to draw any conclusions from it. I’d want to see at least a few different brands represented.

Sure, it was an extremely unscientific test (and stupid, I wouldn't have been doing it with a track pump from behind a piece of cardboard...) but it's not just a video, tire manufacturers have been screaming about hookless rims for road bike tires for ages, continental for example has had plenty of tubeless-ready road tires for years but up until the model tested in that video they were adamant that none of them were safe to use on hookless rims at all.

Edit: And the 72.5 psi limit doesn't come from nowhere, that's from ETRTO standards as the maximum allowable pressure for any hookless rim and tire combination complying with their standards, so even if wheel and tire manufacturers produce products compliant with the standard there's no guarantee that any of them will be safe at a pressure the average punter might pump their road bike tire up to.

Blackhawk fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Aug 26, 2023

Krogort
Oct 27, 2013
After having some knee pain during a big riding week (spent 35 hours on the bike), I went for a proper bikefit at a physiotherapist.
My saddle was >1cm too high and a bit too far back as well as too tiltted forward (but that later point has probably no impact on my knee problems).
I also discovered that my bar are slightly too wide, I have a 42 and I would be better with a 40. I got told it is not a mandatory or urgent upgrade but would help feeling better on the bike.

I have alloy bar at the moment, are carbon bars really more comfortable ? Kinda like going from an alloy frame to a carbonfiber frame ? or is it overrated ?

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Blackhawk posted:

Edit: And the 72.5 psi limit doesn't come from nowhere, that's from ETRTO standards as the maximum allowable pressure for any hookless rim and tire combination complying with their standards, so even if wheel and tire manufacturers produce products compliant with the standard there's no guarantee that any of them will be safe at a pressure the average punter might pump their road bike tire up to.

It’s not the usual move given market pressure for light weight and accounting pressure to save on material, but manufacturers can go above and beyond standards.

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wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?
Giant have their own compatibility list of tyres for their hookless rims, and say you can run any pressure up to the tyres maximum on those approved tyres.

Or stick to 72psi for general tubeless hookless compatible ones not mentioned.

Interestingly they also have a not-compatible list to not use at all. That includes the Pirelli p-zero race tlr, which I actually stopped someone buying to use with his.

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