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On a boat, get marine grade wire, west marine style ancor brand. Connecting wires according to AYBC code, ought to be crimp connections when possible. I suggest using heat shrink over top. Don't be like my previous owner who put crimp connections where water collects near the keel Not sure what you're doing exactly (wiring in a fish finder?) But I'd get a switch breaker panel from like, blue sea, then connect them to a breaker which connects directly to the battery. Nav, stereo, VHF radio are all good options, and usually are independent of ignition Hadlock fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Aug 26, 2023 |
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Aug 26, 2023 21:08
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wolrah posted:They will not degrade any more than they would sitting in that same garage attached to a parked car. As long as you're storing them indoors and your garage/shed/whatever isn't some leaky mess you're probably matching or beating the conditions they're stored in before they get to you. The link is helpful. Hadn't thought about orientation they're stored in (rims vs w/o rims) and would have stored them wrong otherwise. Thanks!
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Aug 26, 2023 22:15
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Hadlock posted:On a boat, get marine grade wire, west marine style ancor brand. Connecting wires according to AYBC code, ought to be crimp connections when possible. I suggest using heat shrink over top. Don't be like my previous owner who put crimp connections where water collects near the keel https://minnkota.johnsonoutdoors.com/us/shop/battery-chargers/board-alternator One of these MFs. They say its preferred to have a 12 volt keyed source. Might forego the breaker as it's got a 50 ish amp fuse at the battery connection. No plans on using anything less than heat shrink at connections. Hoping to not be "that guy". I'm not a wiring expert, but if there's one thing I hate it's messy wiring jobs. What the poo poo is aybc?
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Aug 27, 2023 00:23
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American yacht belectrical code, or something. It's the recognized international marine electrical code
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Aug 27, 2023 00:43
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NEC, but with gold fringe.
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Aug 27, 2023 02:31
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Whats a good way of splicing a wire to another wire? I've recently met these while installing an irrigation system: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b10128463/ These are supposed to be completely watertight.
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Aug 27, 2023 12:49
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sleepy gary posted:NEC, but with gold fringe. Lol
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Aug 27, 2023 12:55
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2012 Honda Civic EX I’m gathering opinions on what would be feasible to reduce road noise. This car was reviewed to be very noisy when new, but it’s rust free, paid off, and just over 110k on the clock. One obvious thing could be to change the tires from PS A/S 3+’s to a GT tire (CrossClimate 2’s look enticing and I’d like to not pay for a set of snow tires if I don’t have to). Would to be worth the money to have an audio shop install additional sound deadening in this car?
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Aug 27, 2023 18:35
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Full Collapse posted:2012 Honda Civic EX Tires are going to be just about the only thing, but if you're going from a non winter tie to a tie that in part is capable of winter driving, it's probably going to be louder. Remember that tires are reviewed against their peers in the same category, so a review saying that true is quiet should be interpreted as 'for a tire with snow tread on some part of it'. Adding deadening will help but it's also adding weight, making your car heavier and giving it worse mileage. Maybe have an audio shop install a good system and just enjoy that instead!
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Aug 27, 2023 20:04
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VelociBacon posted:Tires are going to be just about the only thing, but if you're going from a non winter tie to a tie that in part is capable of winter driving, it's probably going to be louder. Remember that tires are reviewed against their peers in the same category, so a review saying that true is quiet should be interpreted as 'for a tire with snow tread on some part of it'. Thank you. I’m ok with losing a few MPG since big feelings it’ll work out less than a car payment over time. I’ll probably look into the sound deadening (already changed the deck to a Kenwood Excelon and the factory Pioneer speakers are ok for now). I can’t really do subwoofers for a number of reasons. If any tire is going to be loud, deadening the interior wheel wells might help a bit.
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Aug 27, 2023 20:44
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Full Collapse posted:This car was reviewed to be very noisy when new, In my experience, reviewers are whiny prigs when it comes to cabin noise. I had a 2014 civic and it was perfectly acceptable for road noise. As was mentioned, tires are usually the top contributor. If they’re poo poo, aggressive, unevenly worn, or have different treads that cause harmonics, they’ll make any car sound and ride like poo poo. Budget for a good set some short time after purchase. Money well spent imo
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Aug 27, 2023 20:51
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mr.belowaverage posted:In my experience, reviewers are whiny prigs when it comes to cabin noise. I had a 2014 civic and it was perfectly acceptable for road noise. 2014 was after Hondas emergency redesign that was focused specifically on making it less noisy. The 2012 Civic reviewed horribly and as a step back from its predecessor so Honda refreshed it almost immediately.
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Aug 27, 2023 21:06
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Twerk from Home posted:2014 was after Hondas emergency redesign that was focused specifically on making it less noisy. The 2012 Civic reviewed horribly and as a step back from its predecessor so Honda refreshed it almost immediately. This is true. An executive was fired over the release of the 9th gen Civic.
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Aug 27, 2023 21:18
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Is less than 40k miles in a car too soon for a cylinder air/fuel imbalance code? I got one in cylinder 2 on Friday and the car isn’t running any noticeably different. It’s a Kia Sorento and it’s still covered under a power train warranty but the earliest the dealer can see the car is the end of September. Im thinking a bad sensor or maybe dirty injector?
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Aug 28, 2023 16:22
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Bring it to a different dealer, that’s an insane wait
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Aug 28, 2023 16:39
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Bring it to a different dealer, that’s an insane wait Yeah I’ll probably end up taking it to my local guy to look at it but since I just bought the car in the last 2 months and it’s under warranty still it’d be nice to have them do it.
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Aug 28, 2023 17:23
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Is there another dealer local to you? If its still under warranty, you should be taking it to the dealer if for no other reason than Hyundai and Kia are reputed to be real assholes about warranty poo poo and would love to use "not repaired by Hyundai/Kia authorized service centre warranty void" as an excuse to have you pay for it. Also taking it to a local guy, you'll have to pay for it. The dealer (any dealer) isn't going to reimburse you or them for the work.
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Aug 28, 2023 17:38
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Man, at what point do you start to think that this recommended garage, that your usual mechanic directed you to because he doesn't do A/C work, just sucks. My girlfriend has had her 2010 Ford Taurus in for AC work twice now in two weeks, and both times the AC stops working after a day. First, they replace the compressor and the belt and charge it, then they deal with some "filters" that were clogged (IDKS about ACs, the system has filters I guess?), and now, the new belt is squealing and the car has an uneven idle. Is this just a reasonable number of "downstream" complications that aren't apparent until the current issues are fixed, or at these guys just dummies? At this point I almost want to tell them "look, fix the car, and then use it go get lunch for a few days now, because you don't really seem to be checking to see if you've actually resolved the issue". The mechanic she normally used a transmissions specialist and he's one of those great, semi professional, semi retired old men that just putters around in their well equipped home garage, and always does great work and never over charges, but he recommended her to a more traditional shop for the AC work and it's like, they obviously don't give a poo poo and are getting vehicles in and out with a minimum amount of professionalism. Not incompetent or corrupt, but we're not going to be getting any favors as we bring this poo poo back for the same issue for the third time. Like, we've spent two grand on the AC on a very old car; fuckin' fix it. At this rate, the AC is out on my car (it's charged, the compressor doesn't engage), and I'm not going to be taking it there.
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Aug 28, 2023 17:58
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Twerk from Home posted:2014 was after Hondas emergency redesign that was focused specifically on making it less noisy. The 2012 Civic reviewed horribly and as a step back from its predecessor so Honda refreshed it almost immediately. Yeah. My 2013 CR-V was a great car overall but it was surprisingly loud at highway speeds, just from wind and road noise. The 2018 Canyon I replaced it with is much quieter, despite having a turbodiesel and GM interior rattles.
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Aug 28, 2023 18:03
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Is there another dealer local to you? It looks like there’s a couple a bit closer to me so I just need to check the terms of my warranty and make sure I’m not bound to using the dealer for it. I definitely don’t want to have to pay for it if I don’t have to.
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Aug 28, 2023 19:15
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Jack B Nimble posted:Man, at what point do you start to think that this recommended garage, that your usual mechanic directed you to because he doesn't do A/C work, just sucks. For your car, test/replace the AC clutch relay. If that's the problem you got lucky. Are you sure the system is charge and at the correct pressure?
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Aug 28, 2023 20:13
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I bought a charge kit, plugged it into the low pressure port, and it was in the green. I did try charging it a bit, but the needle didn't really move. I also identified the fuse but didn't pull it because I didn't have needle nose pliers at the time - I used to work on my own cars a little so I know the basics and have the tools but in the last several years I've given it up and all my old tools are languishing in my parent's shed, so I realized that even something like needle nose pliers is something I effectively don't own anymore. I'll either buy some or go get my old pair, and I'll check the fuse. Like, I changed the A/C compressor on my old car, but now I just don't have the patience to do it any more - I was willing to check/charge my own car, and I'm willing to check the fuse and the relay, and after that it's down to whether or not I want to pay for someone else to do it.
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Aug 28, 2023 21:10
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Good odds your fuse block has a fuse puller in there. It'll be stubby plastic tweezers.
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Aug 28, 2023 22:37
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Dudeabides posted:It looks like there’s a couple a bit closer to me so I just need to check the terms of my warranty and make sure I’m not bound to using the dealer for it. I definitely don’t want to have to pay for it if I don’t have to. The OEM is not going to pay anyone other than the dealer. Take it to the dealer if it's under warranty.
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Aug 29, 2023 01:33
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I'm having trouble bleeding the new (reman) caliper I just put on my car. I have a 2003 VW Jetta GLS with the 1.8t. I had some noise recently at about 1 weird grinding sound per tire rotation but it wasn't the tires or wheel bearings, instead, one of the brake pads got ground down by a pitted rusty spot on the rotor so that it was rubbing the steel back plate on the rotor while in motion, and making a sound every time it passed that rusty spot. The other three pads were okay but have been on there 5 years or so (I don't drive a ton) so I'm putting on new pads and rotors. I got new pads and rotors this weekend but I could not wind in the piston on the passenger rear caliper with the (cheap amazon) winding tool I have, which I used successfully on the other side, and also in 2017 when I replaced the pads and rotors last time (for the first time since I've had it). I pushed so hard on the tool the crappy handle started to bend and my palms got sore, so I gave it some whacks in and sideways with the rubber mallet to no avail, decided it was frozen and I'd rather pick up a reman caliper than do further diagnosis because the handbrake cable came out but the handbrake lever on the back that actuates it doesn't move very much (unlike the reman). My understanding is that the handbrake mechanism can freeze the piston or vice-versa and the car is 20 years old so it's possible this is the original caliper, but I don't actually know that for certain. Anyway, today I got a remanufactured caliper at Autozone along with 32oz of DOT4 and a OEM tools hand pump vacuum brake bleeder because I've never bled brakes before, but I figured I need to for the caliper and also I'm sure my brake fluid is overdue for a change (it is, it's dark). https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-caliper/p/duralast-rear-passenger-side-brake-caliper-19-b2574/563454_0_0 https://www.autozone.com/brake-and-power-steering-fluid-additives/brake-fluid/p/shoppro-dot-4-brake-fluid-32oz/666763_0_0 https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...-pump/70116_0_0 I've watched a couple of youtube videos of people using vacuum bleeders. I watched folks use this OEMtools as well as the harbor freight one (I just got this one since I was in the same store). I put it together properly in that the "to pump" side of the container cap is going to the tube to the pump and the other side goes to the tube to the bleeder valve. I tested that it holds a vacuum against my gloved hand but does start to leak slightly after a few seconds. It leaks slowly but it seems to be from the end since all of the connections look pretty tight. It's possible the leak is around the O-ring in the container but it's wet with brake fluid at this point so it seems pretty set. Not sure if it should really hold a vacuum indefinitely or not but I sort of doubt this is my problem. Anyway, I was able to use it to quickly pull a couple of containers of fluid out of the master cylinder (I didn't let it get too low) and replace it with new DOT4. I then put my little box end wrench on the bleeder screw and pumped it up to 20 in/Hg and cracked the bleeder loose and it went like 1/4 turn or so, and I kept pumping and it did eventually pull bubbly brake fluid out. Sometimes I'll close the valve and take a break and pump the vacuum back down before continuing. So I've done that a few times over the last couple of hours, but what I've noticed is that it's taking forever and I'm never getting a solid column of brake fluid out of bleeder valve like I see folks show on youtube videos. There's always air and it's always like a trickle of brake fluid. it takes a very long time to get a full container of brake fluid through like this. I used a little grease around the bleeder nipple to prevent air from getting in and it doesn't seem to make a difference. I did try opening the bleeder more to try to let more fluid/bubbles out, but that seemed to let air get in. I understand that the threads on the bleeder valve/screw are what keep the fluid in so opening it more could let air down into the caliper. So I'm done for today because I did get maybe 500cc through that line and from the master cylinder but it took a couple of hours and it doesn't feel like it's bleeding this caliper correctly. It's never a nice solid tube of fluid with maybe some bubbles, it's always air with a little fluid coming along for the ride. It's taking a very long time and I'm concerned I'm wasting brake fluid and making no progress. I want to get this far corner bled before I bleed the other lines which should have no air but will have old fluid. I did read and hear about doing the furthest from the master cylinder first, which is what I'm working on. I figure that my issue could be that the tool isn't sealing well, although it seems to seal well enough as far as I can tell. It could also be the bleeder screw itself. Not sure what to do about that other than try to get the one off my old caliper or buy another one. It could be the caliper itself if they didn't get the seals right and it's pulling in air (I'd imagine if that was the case, I'd have seen some fluid drip out though?) It could also be the banjo bolt, but that doesn't seem to leak at all either. I'm done for today, too tired to continue, but I'd like some advice on the next step here. I could make the one man bleeder tool with an empty soda bottle some folks use where you just use the car's brakes to push fluid through the line into the bottle. I could try swapping the bleeder valve or pick up another one. I could just be doing it wrong? I need some advice. I can obviously take some video of what it's doing if it would help but I'm not going back out there tonight.
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Aug 29, 2023 01:59
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Rexxed posted:I'm having trouble bleeding the new (reman) caliper I just put on my car. I think you should probably try again but turn it another 1/4 turn (for a total of 1/2) and see if that works. I wonder if you're creating such a vacuum from the bleed nipple being partly closed, such that it's pulling air in via the threads or the connections in the vacuum bleeder line. You don't want to go crazy and start unscrewing that nipple by multiple turns but it's not going to really fall out either if you have to go 1/2 turn or more. You will see brake fluid weeping around the threads before it falls out.
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Aug 29, 2023 02:17
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Yeah it could be something that simple since I've never done it before, I'll definitely check that first tomorrow. I didn't want to open it too much since it seemed like brake fluid would get out of the threads (although not much I guess). On the upside I think the dark fluid is just starting to clear up so if I can get the caliper bled after this I'll be in good shape, probably.
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Aug 29, 2023 03:05
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:The OEM is not going to pay anyone other than the dealer. Take it to the dealer if it's under warranty. This is true, but again, what I said was take it to a different dealer. A two or three hour drive is worth it compared to waiting a month and change with a problem. Don’t bring it to a different garage, go to a different Kia (or Hyundai, I forgot which one) dealer within a weekend’s trip
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Aug 29, 2023 03:25
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Also confirm you have the correct side caliper, bleedscrew should be at the top. It's an easy mistake to make and if you got a new one then it's possible they gave you the wrong side.
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Aug 29, 2023 04:40
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Bajaha posted:Also confirm you have the correct side caliper, bleedscrew should be at the top. Yeah, I am aware of that issue and checked it at the store before I picked it up, but good call. It's identical to my old one but with the reman grey coating and new hardware. Also a spring on the e-brake mechanism? If mine had those they rusted away years ago.
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Aug 29, 2023 05:09
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You're almost definitely pulling air from around the tube with the vacuum. Do you have a second person to pump the brakes for you so you don't need to PULL the fluid out of the bleeder?
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Aug 29, 2023 05:58
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Dr. Lunchables posted:This is true, but again, what I said was take it to a different dealer. A two or three hour drive is worth it compared to waiting a month and change with a problem. Don’t bring it to a different garage, go to a different Kia (or Hyundai, I forgot which one) dealer within a weekend’s trip Agreed - a different dealer is fine and good. OP appeared to be considering non-dealer options though.
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Aug 29, 2023 12:55
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I've never had luck with vacuum bleeding. I always just throw speed bleeders on anything I touch, they have never failed me.
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Aug 29, 2023 17:01
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I got an oil change for my 2012 Mazda 3 recently and my fuel economy took a dive immediately after. I used to get around 29 mpg and started getting like 24-25 right after the oil change. I checked the dipstick and the level is about a quarter inch above the top dot. I called the place that did it and the guy just said that shouldn't affect fuel economy. They used the right oil type (0W20) according to the receipt. So what do y'all think happened? (Yes I'm taking it in soon, just want to be informed beforehand)
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Aug 29, 2023 21:52
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El Jeffe posted:I got an oil change for my 2012 Mazda 3 recently and my fuel economy took a dive immediately after. I used to get around 29 mpg and started getting like 24-25 right after the oil change. I checked the dipstick and the level is about a quarter inch above the top dot. I called the place that did it and the guy just said that shouldn't affect fuel economy. They used the right oil type (0W20) according to the receipt. So what do y'all think happened? (Yes I'm taking it in soon, just want to be informed beforehand) Could just have been some idle time at the shop. I don't know that I'd worry too much about it unless it becomes a long-term trend.
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Aug 29, 2023 22:10
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It's been a few weeks and several hundred miles and my mileage is consistently lower than it was right before the change, is it safe to call that a long-term trend? Not sure what you mean by idle time at the shop, it only took about five minutes. Also, was the guy right that the oil level being above the max line won't affect fuel economy? Everything I'm reading is telling me overfilling the oil is very bad for the engine.
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Aug 29, 2023 22:46
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Yes overfilling is bad for the engine but a quarter inch above the full mark is nothing I'd worry about.
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Aug 29, 2023 23:02
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Depends on how much they overfilled the oil. An extra liter probably won't make a big difference. Three liters? Yeah, thats probably bad. What happens is the crankshaft can sort of like suck up the oil as its spinning and beat it in to foam. The oil pump can't pump foam, so its bad for the engine. I don't know how much extra oil a quarter inch above the full dot on your dipstick equates to for your particular engine. On a bigger engine with a big oil pan, that might be a lot of extra oil, on a smaller engine in might only be a bit. I suppose its possible the extra oil is causing (for lack of a better term) some extra wind resistance on your crankshaft, which would probably affect your fuel economy, but I'm not a scientologist. So maybe someone smarter than me might say that ain't going to do poo poo.
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Aug 29, 2023 23:04
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Ok so it's not the oil level then, thanks folks. Now I'm just left wondering what tf they did to my car because the difference is night and day and it definitely started right after the change. Hopefully they can figure it out when I bring it in.
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Aug 29, 2023 23:30
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El Jeffe posted:I got an oil change for my 2012 Mazda 3 recently and my fuel economy took a dive immediately after. I used to get around 29 mpg and started getting like 24-25 right after the oil change. I checked the dipstick and the level is about a quarter inch above the top dot. I called the place that did it and the guy just said that shouldn't affect fuel economy. They used the right oil type (0W20) according to the receipt. So what do y'all think happened? (Yes I'm taking it in soon, just want to be informed beforehand) I wonder if in addition to the overfill they gave you 5w-30, although I wouldn't expect that to make more than a small difference in fuel economy.
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Aug 30, 2023 00:00
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