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knox_harrington posted:Not specifically rock climbing, but does anyone do any alpine here? Just wondering if there are recommended B2 boots, I've been climbing in B3s but the lack of flexibility is a big drawback especially now I'm doing more technical routes. They're also heavy as gently caress and suck to walk in on approaches. I have eventually picked up some B2 boots, I tried on a few pairs and these were wonderfully comfortable. They're also half the weight of my Nepals, I was a bit sceptical but apparently they climb very well, just not on pure ice. Mammut taiss light mid gtx is the model. Having half a kilo less on each foot feels like it will make a big difference. 
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Aug 24, 2023 14:07
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Sab669 posted:Huh, dang. I've completely worn out my Evolvs, can see my bare toe through a nice big hole in the box. Don't do that. Watch your shoes, don't drag your toes, get resoles done. Although if you have to mail the shoes around it can be a bit expensive. Usually still worth it though.
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Aug 24, 2023 15:48
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 I was thinking these were past the point of being resoled? These had actually been in the "back burner" pile waiting for different pair of general day to day workhorse shoe to need resoling so that I could save on shipping by sending both pairs off at once. But I was having some problems with those and went back to this pair mostly full time.
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Aug 24, 2023 15:55
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Sab669 posted:
That's way beyond resoling. I did an effort post about when to resole a while back and can do so again if folks want it, but yeah that's way, way past being resoled.
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Aug 24, 2023 16:13
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Yea, I figured so but haven't actually resoled a pair before so now that spwrozek said it I was like, "Well maybe?" They weren't nearly so far gone when I first retired them, but yea was forced to bring them out of retirement and just hadn't realized how much worse I've made them the last few months.
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Aug 24, 2023 16:18
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What I really meant is you need to resole them before it becomes an issue. Those shoes are hilarious.
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Aug 25, 2023 02:36
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The rule of thumb I've heard is that you can't have any leather showing if you want them to be resoled. They can't actually build the leather back up, just the rubber, so you need to identify the point where the rubber is nearly gone but not entirely.
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Aug 25, 2023 14:49
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vonnegutt posted:The rule of thumb I've heard is that you can't have any leather showing if you want them to be resoled. They can't actually build the leather back up, just the rubber, so you need to identify the point where the rubber is nearly gone but not entirely. That's ideal, but if you've punched a hole of maybe ~3mm through the rubber they're likely still resole-able. If you tear the stitching holding the toe and sole leather together, then you're in the no-go zone. You still could resole them at that point, but it might come apart faster than it should and/or have a weird toe shape after resoling. The thing to do is to keep an eye on the faint seam between the sole and rand rubber. On new shoes it will be a straight line, but it will start to dip at the toe with wear. Once it has dipped down enough, you're using the rand rubber and that's really when you should resole them. It's quite a bit earlier than you might think. If you keep climbing on them at that point until you get a pinhole breach in the rubber you'll need a new rand in addition to a half sole. Realistically, that's when I typically send mine in. I think my oldest pair has been resoled 6 times now with no issues, needing new rand rubber each time. I had Rock and Resole send me one pair back with "RIP LAST RESOLE" written on them, they still climbed perfectly for 6 months but I retired them after that.
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Aug 25, 2023 15:24
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What are the thread's thoughts on whether a friction hitch is a good idea when rappelling with a grigri? I've always used one, but opinions on the Internet seem mixed.
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Aug 25, 2023 18:06
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Also, here's some photos from this year's Colorado trip. We went to Shelf Road, Elevenmile Canyon and Red Rock Canyon Open Space.        Also explored North Table Mountain up in Golden, but didn't have time to climb. Some cool features though! 
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Aug 25, 2023 18:18
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Slow News Day posted:What are the thread's thoughts on whether a friction hitch is a good idea when rappelling with a grigri? I've always used one, but opinions on the Internet seem mixed. I guess I don't see the purpose.
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Aug 25, 2023 18:18
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IMO North Table Mountain looks like it should be great but is pretty garbage to actually climb.
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Aug 26, 2023 15:50
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Slow News Day posted:Also, here's some photos from this year's Colorado trip. We went to Shelf Road, Elevenmile Canyon and Red Rock Canyon Open Space. This looks fuckin awesome
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Aug 27, 2023 15:37
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I really don't want to return this third pair of shoes I bought after the first two pairs didn't fit well, but drat: The Evolv's on the left are a 42, the La Sportiva are a 41  Not sure if I should go down half a size or a whole size. Although now that I'm thinking this much about it, I feel like I should just get a second pair of Kronos... Wonder if I'll even be able to return these now that I took the tag off and got a little climbing in though
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Aug 29, 2023 13:21
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Sab669 posted:I really don't want to return this third pair of shoes I bought after the first two pairs didn't fit well, but drat: Climbing shoe sizes are such a mess, aren’t they? All else fails you can also try to just put them up on something like geartrade or FB marketplace and recoup some costs. Hopefully you can do returns; my gym gives us a 45 day window as long as it’s in good condition since they know all about how tough it is to find the right shoe.
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Aug 29, 2023 13:24
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Thread poll: You're leading a sport route outdoors and you just got your draw onto a bolt. The clipping position is sketchy so you hold the dogbone while clipping the rope. Is this cheat-y or totally legit? I definitely do it at select times, and I've heard more experienced climbers than me say it's legit (including the HardIsEasy guy iirc) but I've heard others say "do it if you have to but it's cheaty." What do you all think? I personally don't care about getting a perfect send and I'll keep doing it, I'm just curious what others think.
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Aug 30, 2023 17:59
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to me, that would be using gear to stay on the wall. very edge case, and hell, it's the kind of thing where you're maybe sharing 5% of your effort with the gear. if i were to clip from a position where i were gripping the dog bone in my hand that way, such that i'd be unable to complete the clip otherwise, that send would get a asterisk in my mind. i've done it, and it makes me feel like i cheated, personally. i wouldn't begrudge or probably even notice if another climber did it. but i actively avoid relying on the gear in that way when climbing
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Aug 30, 2023 18:09
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alnilam posted:"do it if you have to but it's cheaty." this is my opinion basically i guess
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Aug 30, 2023 18:09
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alnilam posted:Thread poll: I don't consider it a "send". Oftentimes when I do this kind of stuff it's a very "whatever works" approach to getting draws up or building an anchor so I can work the route on toprope. I like the feeling of working a route and finally getting a clean send, but I also like to just go out with my friends and have a good time. For me it's a good way to identify projects: if I can send it on toprope with no takes or lead with a few cheaty moves, that's a good candidate to return to and work a little bit more to get the clean lead send.
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Aug 30, 2023 18:16
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It's cheating. but if it keeps you from taking a whipper then it keeps you from taking a whipper. Lead falls suck.
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Aug 30, 2023 18:17
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alnilam posted:Thread poll: I would call this aiding or French freeing. I do it fairly regularly but if you do I would say you can’t call the ascent an onsight or redpoint or whatever even if you didn’t call or take otherwise.
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Aug 30, 2023 18:18
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I think it’s cheaty but I’m only ever probably doing the 11,000th ascent of some low quality 5.10 so who cares.
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Aug 30, 2023 18:21
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You didn't send it free. You could say you sent it aid. Not sure how the word "cheat" has anything to do with it. There are no rules for you climbing unless they are your own. If you said you sent it free you would just be a liar.
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Aug 30, 2023 19:15
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alnilam posted:Thread poll: It's a good thing to do if it avoids a nasty fall, if you're practicing a route and want to skip some moves to focus on a part after the bolt or if a certain section is just too hard for you and you want to try the rest of the route, but it's not a send since you're basically adding a "jug" to the route if you're really grabbing onto the dogbone.
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Aug 30, 2023 20:10
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To clarify: the draws are not pre-placed - you have 100% legitimately done the moves to reach the bolt close enough to get a draw on it. And you do not advance via the dogbone, just stabilize with it while you get the rope in there. So no moves are skipped, you still do all of the moves on the route, you just maybe... get a brief slightly cheaty rest?
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Aug 30, 2023 20:20
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alnilam posted:To clarify: the draws are not pre-placed - you have 100% legitimately done the moves to reach the bolt close enough to get a draw on it. And you do not advance via the dogbone, just stabilize with it while you get the rope in there. So no moves are skipped, you still do all of the moves on the route, you just maybe... get a brief slightly cheaty rest? It's still A0. But unless you are claiming some benchmark or something ("I just climbed my first 11a!") then who really cares?
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Aug 30, 2023 20:28
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alnilam posted:To clarify: the draws are not pre-placed - you have 100% legitimately done the moves to reach the bolt close enough to get a draw on it. And you do not advance via the dogbone, just stabilize with it while you get the rope in there. So no moves are skipped, you still do all of the moves on the route, you just maybe... get a brief slightly cheaty rest? yeah, that's french free or free climbing with just a hint of aid
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Aug 30, 2023 20:31
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Just chiming in to agree with the others here - not a free ascent.
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Aug 30, 2023 20:53
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Grabbing draws is in many cases symptomatic of fear of falling. Is the fall objectively a dangerous one? Modern bolted sport routes put up by a competent developer should be safe. Often you can find a better clipping position by just doing one or a couple moves. It takes practice to ignore the impulse to clip a draw as soon as you can reach it.
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Aug 30, 2023 22:07
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knox_harrington posted:I have eventually picked up some B2 boots, I tried on a few pairs and these were wonderfully comfortable. They're also half the weight of my Nepals, I was a bit sceptical but apparently they climb very well, just not on pure ice. Mammut taiss light mid gtx is the model. Nice. Magic elf boots. 1d6 saving throw against benightment. The old schoolie rule of thumb is a pound on your feet is worth five on your back, so you can now carry... 98.039 additional mars bars in your rucksack and still crush viertausenders.
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Aug 30, 2023 22:14
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Agree with everyone else. If you're weighting the dogbone or using it to stabilize yourself (as opposed to the draw), it's not a send.
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Aug 31, 2023 15:23
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spwrozek posted:Not sure how the word "cheat" has anything to do with it. There are no rules for you climbing unless they are your own. If you said you sent it free you would just be a liar. I think most people would say it goes against the spirit of climbing, which is very similar to "cheating"
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Aug 31, 2023 15:29
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I mean, yeah sure if you do it at every clip on every route you're climbing but once in a while if you're stressed out, in an awkward position or the fall might be bad then go ahead. It's not a send of course but for me, I don't care. After I started trad climbing I became much less preoccupied with the "rules" of climbing. I'll pull on cams, use them as aid gear or whatever as long as I get up and I'm out and having a good time. In the end, for me it's all about getting out there and spending time on nice and interesting rock.
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Sep 1, 2023 08:42
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Are you enjoying climbing, even if you pull on dogbones? Congrats, you're climbing right! Are you enjoying arguing/researching/discussing about whether or not pulling on dogbones counts as a send? Congrats, you're also climbing right! Do you not care? Don't do it! Either one!
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Sep 2, 2023 22:32
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Happiness Commando posted:Are you enjoying climbing, even if you pull on dogbones? Congrats, you're climbing right! lol i absolutely enjoy the discussion, in a "sitting around a fire drinking beer and shooting the poo poo about climbing details in a friendly way" kind of sense, that's why i brought it up  
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Sep 2, 2023 22:37
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there are no rules in outdoor climbing. Do what is safe and what you think is fun
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Sep 3, 2023 03:15
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Going to Bend, OR for a wedding and tacking on a couple extra days for climbing at Smith Rock (well, I assume Smith Rock, unless someone here encourages another area). I'll only have my sport climbing gear and have been so focused on bouldering I haven't been on a rope in a while. Endurance work has been lacking and it is going to show! Any suggestions for areas or routes to look at? Probably just going to focus on climbing moderates given the lack of rope climbing preparation.
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Sep 3, 2023 15:17
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Niyqor posted:Going to Bend, OR for a wedding and tacking on a couple extra days for climbing at Smith Rock (well, I assume Smith Rock, unless someone here encourages another area). What kind of grade do you climb? What time of year? What days of the week?
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Sep 3, 2023 15:19
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Niyqor posted:Going to Bend, OR for a wedding and tacking on a couple extra days for climbing at Smith Rock (well, I assume Smith Rock, unless someone here encourages another area). I haven't checked the status, but the main foot bridge into Smith might still be out.
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Sep 3, 2023 18:39
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I climb exclusively indoor still, but my 1 1/2 year old shoes are slipping on highly textured volumes to a point where I’m considering new shoes or resole. No holes or major damage, just not sticky in surprising ways. Is it worth it for beginnerish shoes? I have Scarpa Helix by the way I’ve never resoled a shoe before, so idk how bad they have to be to justify it. I’m trying to save money, but if buying new is a cheaper (ie will just last longer) in the long run I’ll just do that.
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Sep 3, 2023 21:32
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