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Communist Thoughts
Jan 7, 2008

Our war against free speech cannot end until we silence this bronze beast!


Good Listener posted:

Hello thread~ I was at a convention this past weekend and seeing some of the creative stuff people were doing with these little figures using something called the Glyos system I kind of got a creative bug burning in my brain.

I kind of wanna learn how to make my own figures but I have no idea where to begin. I like to think I'm a pretty okay artist but I have no experience with painting or sculpting miniatures and the like (traditional or 3d). So I guess I'm wondering if y'all have any tips for a pretty much stage 0 beginner? I appreciate any help you might have!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-mx-Jfx9lA


This vid is fairly advanced and for game models but shows basically everything you need for blender modelling minis in the first half.
Just browse through the sculpting sections at the beginning. Rigging can also be helpful but you don't need to retopo or texture things.

Also I'm reposting my confusing ramble blender advice below

Communist Thoughts posted:


start with a sphere with 64x64 faces (set the faces in the tiny openable menu in the bottom left when you add the sphere) and in sculpt mode turn dyntopo on in the top left and set it to 2 pixel resolution, and turn on X symmetry next to the dyntopo button. (dyntopo means the sculpt tools create new faces and thus new details instead of only using the existing ones.)

the only sculpting tools you need to know are:

for organic:

Grab - for pulling or pushing indidual bits into place
Elastic deform - for changing the overall shape of the area or model
Crease - for adding folds and details like orifices or wrinkles
Inflate - for adding or decreasing bulk
Smooth - for smoothing all this out once you're done, particularly good at cleaning up Draw
Draw - for adding or removing height like adding a brow or scooping an eye socket

then for sharp manufactured surfaces you use:

Scrape to shave corners into clean bevels
Pinch to sharpen those corners
Flatten to make rounded stuff flat

(each tool can be used in an opposite way by holding CTRL, the brush size depends on your zoom level)

The only other button thats really important to know is the modifier one, its the little spanner in the object toolbar. its really useful since you can easily add symmetry with the mirror modifier

Head practice:
try setting up your sphere and then add a 2nd sphere with a mirror modifier centred on the 1st for the eyes and an ovaloid sphere in the centre for the nose. Then just stretch and grab it and have fun. you can go a LONG way with just Grab and Crease, just remember to turn X symmetry on


after you're done scultping you will want to hit the whole thing with a decimate modifier to make it not be 15,000,000 polys anymore (though it doesnt matter for 3d printing your PC will thank you).

e: also sculpt monsters so that its fine if they look messed up

Doing mechanical parts requires messing around with cubes and cylinders in edit mode and using the boolean and array modifiers to cut parts out or repeat them.
But I'm only just learning that stuff.

Communist Thoughts fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Aug 28, 2023

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spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops
I've had a few prints come out incomplete, where some part or another just comes out flat. Any idea what's caused that? I assumed something like crud in the resin that's not solidified properly?

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008


Grimey Drawer
Flat parts are usually a insufficient support problem. The bad part sticks to the fep, and is picked up when the rest of the print reaches the point where the pieces connect.
But post a photo, just so we can be sure.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





spectralent posted:

I've had a few prints come out incomplete, where some part or another just comes out flat. Any idea what's caused that? I assumed something like crud in the resin that's not solidified properly?

Beaten, but concur that it is usually a support issue. Photos would help though.

Grey Hunter
Oct 17, 2007

Hero of the soviet union.
Accidental destroyer of planets


I made a thing!



The cart is all me, with some leftover guys as crew and spears from old sprues as weapons.

Not bad for a FDM.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Grey Hunter posted:



I made a thing!



The cart is all me, with some leftover guys as crew and spears from old sprues as weapons.

Not bad for a FDM.

Looks really good! I assumed they were resin prints before I looked closely at the bottom picture and read the text, so yeah, really good for FDM!

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

Grey Hunter posted:



I made a thing!



The cart is all me, with some leftover guys as crew and spears from old sprues as weapons.

Not bad for a FDM.

That looks great!

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Single piece miniatures work perfectly for me, but whenever I have models with pegs and sockets, or tabs, etc. - then they never seem to fit correctly, and the peg is always oversized. So far this hasn't been an issue but I assume it's something dialled in incorrectly somewhere. What is it likely to be?

I'm using Elegoo ABS-like 2.0 with 30um layer height, 3s exposure, 3s lift time - everything else has been perfect so I'm loathe to change things up - but it would be good to know!

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED

Southern Heel posted:

Single piece miniatures work perfectly for me, but whenever I have models with pegs and sockets, or tabs, etc. - then they never seem to fit correctly, and the peg is always oversized. So far this hasn't been an issue but I assume it's something dialled in incorrectly somewhere. What is it likely to be?

I'm using Elegoo ABS-like 2.0 with 30um layer height, 3s exposure, 3s lift time - everything else has been perfect so I'm loathe to change things up - but it would be good to know!

If your pegs are oversized (or your holes are undersized) then you're likely looking at an overexposure issue.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Thank you! Are we looking at incremental or significant reduction (i.e. 3 to 2.9, or 3 to 2?)

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
Incremental, for sure. If you have some calipers you could try printing something with a known dimension and see how much things change between increments. If not, the Photonsters Validation Matrix v2 is a fast way to check, mostly by using the holes and pegs on the left side.

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

Southern Heel posted:

Single piece miniatures work perfectly for me, but whenever I have models with pegs and sockets, or tabs, etc. - then they never seem to fit correctly, and the peg is always oversized. So far this hasn't been an issue but I assume it's something dialled in incorrectly somewhere. What is it likely to be?

I'm using Elegoo ABS-like 2.0 with 30um layer height, 3s exposure, 3s lift time - everything else has been perfect so I'm loathe to change things up - but it would be good to know!

Chitubox has a setting that allows you to adjust internal and external tolerances by a certain amount too. Not sure which slicer you're using, but Lychee probably has a similar setting as well. Might be worth looking into once exposure is dialed in.

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops


Late, but, this kind of thing is what happens. FWIW, these are presupported from OPR, which people seem to print fine.

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017
Yeah it looks like parts are sticking to the FEP.

I think increasing exposure is the first step to fix it.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





If exposure is good or has minimal impact you can lower lift speeds or increase lift height. What are your settings and machine?

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Thank you for the tips on the exposure, I'll give it a bash. I had quite a few print errors on my latest. I had a fairly full bed, and about half of them just had a big gap:



These aren't the only ones which have this problem - a bunch of little dwarfs with their heads missing, etc. - they are supportless and I have printed historically without extra supports - is there something really obvious that I'm missing?

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops

IncredibleIgloo posted:

If exposure is good or has minimal impact you can lower lift speeds or increase lift height. What are your settings and machine?

It's a Mars 2 Pro, and I've always just used the defaults.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Southern Heel posted:

Thank you for the tips on the exposure, I'll give it a bash. I had quite a few print errors on my latest. I had a fairly full bed, and about half of them just had a big gap:



These aren't the only ones which have this problem - a bunch of little dwarfs with their heads missing, etc. - they are supportless and I have printed historically without extra supports - is there something really obvious that I'm missing?

If you are calibrated on exposure and have run the cones of calibration and that came out good you might want to consider lift speed, rest time after retract, and lift height in roughly that order.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Southern Heel posted:

Thank you! Are we looking at incremental or significant reduction (i.e. 3 to 2.9, or 3 to 2?)

Sorry for the long delay on the answer here, I looked up your printer on the Elegoo sheet recommendation ( https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/view ) and notice the Mars 3/Mars 3 Pro recommends 3 seconds using the ABS like resin 2.0, but that recommendation is for a layer height of .05 . Printing at .03 means that your exposure should come down. By how much, I am not exactly certain. I would try to run cones at 2.8 and see what things look like there.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
I know it doesn't help right now but I also was having constant annoying support failures with small scale minis using the Elegoo ABS Like. I switched to Sunlu and it was much better right out of the bottle.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Sunlu/jayo (a reseller) abs like is by far my favorite resin, the light grey prints like a dream, and it's hella flexible

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

thank you all again!

IncredibleIgloo posted:

. I would try to run cones at 2.8 and see what things look like there.

Very handy tips, is this STL linked somewhere obvious? I did the flat calibration one before…

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord

Southern Heel posted:

thank you all again!

Very handy tips, is this STL linked somewhere obvious? I did the flat calibration one before…

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5416700

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
I would also recommend the boxes of calibration in concert with the cones.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/j3d-tech-s-dimensional-calibration_v0-17

The cones measure tensile strength for things like support minimums and exposure settings. The boxes show dimensional accuracy for really honing in that print quality once you have a baseline.

ShineDog
May 21, 2007
It is inevitable!
Anyone aware of any warmachine adjacent sellers on mmf? I'm looking for something in that particular fantasy industrial wheelhouse but I'm not finding a whole lot.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





ShineDog posted:

Anyone aware of any warmachine adjacent sellers on mmf? I'm looking for something in that particular fantasy industrial wheelhouse but I'm not finding a whole lot.

I don't play warmachine. Can you explain the look or aesthetic? Print Minis has a bunch of good models that are post apocalyptic wasteland. Kind of a Necromunda theme. Is that like Warmachine?

ShineDog
May 21, 2007
It is inevitable!
I'll grab some pictures when I'm back at my pc but the setting is fantasy one where magic powers tech and its got a very early chunky industrial feel to it while being a bit distinct from steampunk stuff.

I'm not super familiar with the setting beyond the aesthetic, (I'm planning to use it for an icon rpg campaign rather than being a warmachine player) but there's a lot of stuff where the elite units are kind of arcane power armoured knights with a chunky warcraft aesthetic who rock up to a fight with tesla coil generators their back and tesla swords, while the line infantry look more like ww1 trench rats with a little knightly helmet and pauldron.

The impression it gives me is that their magical tech is advancing very fast and their aesthetics haven't completely caught up to that fact that they are moving into magic ww1.

Theres huge magic powered robots too.

(There appears to be a new edition that has moved the timeline in and its left the minis looking more generic, in my eyes)

Theres a fair amount of steampunk out there but thats got a very particular look to it I'm not after. I want to find something to ultimately represent the big magitech empire from every ff game.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
This is gonna sound dumb but what are people putting their FDM bedslingers on? I've had my Neptune 4 on a nightstand and the bastard is moving around so much it's wobbling up the prints. Don't love the idea of having it flat on the floor as my dog is already way too interesting in the loud thing flailing around wildly.

MeinPanzer
Dec 20, 2004
anyone who reads Cinema Discusso for anything more than slackjawed trolling will see the shittiness in my posts
Does anyone know of some UK-based good services that print off small numbers of figures for a reasonable price? I've got a couple of figures I'd like to print off in 28mm but I don't know anyone with a 3D printer near where I live.

I figure it probably won't be economical, but I'm always surprised by how accessible 3D printing is these days, so I thought I'd ask.

Mouzer
May 9, 2006
Feed the fish!

Springfield Fatts posted:

This is gonna sound dumb but what are people putting their FDM bedslingers on? I've had my Neptune 4 on a nightstand and the bastard is moving around so much it's wobbling up the prints. Don't love the idea of having it flat on the floor as my dog is already way too interesting in the loud thing flailing around wildly.

Mine set up on a desk, but i also converted my ender to direct drive and lowered a lot of the jerk, acceleration, and print head speeds when i did it.

If its slinging around enough to wobble itself, try lowering some of the speeds or getting some cushiony feet to absorb the impacts

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

Springfield Fatts posted:

This is gonna sound dumb but what are people putting their FDM bedslingers on? I've had my Neptune 4 on a nightstand and the bastard is moving around so much it's wobbling up the prints. Don't love the idea of having it flat on the floor as my dog is already way too interesting in the loud thing flailing around wildly.

Seems like the consensus at the 3d printing thread is to put it on a 14 x 14 inch paver block.

On my old bedslinger, I kept the feed rates high, but turned acceleration down a bit and it seemed to get rid of the flailing.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
I am picturing a printer waving around like one of those inflatable wacky arm guys and it is making me giggle.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

MeinPanzer posted:

Does anyone know of some UK-based good services that print off small numbers of figures for a reasonable price? I've got a couple of figures I'd like to print off in 28mm but I don't know anyone with a 3D printer near where I live.

I figure it probably won't be economical, but I'm always surprised by how accessible 3D printing is these days, so I thought I'd ask.

If it's just a single bed of pre-supported figures just PM me the details and I'll run them off for you for the price of postage plus a few quid for resin/consumables?

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

Lumpy posted:

I am picturing a printer waving around like one of those inflatable wacky arm guys and it is making me giggle.

like an off center clothes dyer shaking its way out the door.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
I should say the printer itself wasn't shaking, the momentum of the plate and print head moving was shaking the lovely ikea nightstand it was sitting on. It's on my workbench now and doing much better.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

How long will these 28 to 15mm rescales last? I’m guessing not so long but hopefully enough to get the flavour of 5 Leagues from the Borderlands:

Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

ok, so I've printed more than a few things at this point, and I'm getting the hang of the printer now. however, I'd like it if the possibility of dropping a print and having it shatter into a million little pieces wasn't a thing, so like, I'm wondering what kind of resin I should be looking for to get a little flex in my prints. I don't need to be able to bend them in a complete circle, but having a print be able to survive a floor drop would be nice. I think I should be looking for "ABS-like" resin? I see Sunlu resin mentioned here often, as well as adding some Siraya Tech Tenacious to resin (which honestly seems a little too fiddly for my liking, but :shrug:), but I'm open to recommendations.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
+1 for Sunlu ABS Like, very satisfied with how well it holds up to handling during painting and gaming.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Yeah I use sunlu/jayo abs and it's got a real nice almost plasticy feel to it and they're very durable

I don't bother with any additives, just straight up sunlu. I've shipped like nearly 1000 boxes of minis and stuff and have barely had anything break in shipping so I definitely love the sunlu

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BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
I've seen a couple folks around the web mention Sunlu and Jayo in the same breath, is it really the same stuff? I see 10kg of Jayo ABS-Like on ebay for around $20/kg and I've wondered what the deal is.

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