|
Ambassadorofsodomy posted:That hole saw I suggested a few posts ago is a pretty awful idea. Clamp the metal between two pieces of 3/4 white wood, maybe even with bolts through the mounting holes. If the metal is thick enough, you only need a bottom piece. Bolt the sandwich to your drill press table, and go steady with the holesaw on the slowest speed and plenty of lube. Edit: I’d expect you need to feed it harder than you’d think to keep the teeth cutting and not rubbing, but not so fast it binds.
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2023 22:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 05:54 |
|
|
ZincBoy posted:Before I had a plasma cutter, I would have done that using a jig saw with a metal blade. Lay it out, drill a hole close to one edge to start in, and go to town. Wear ear plugs. LightRailTycoon posted:Clamp the metal between two pieces of 3/4 white wood, maybe even with bolts through the mounting holes. If the metal is thick enough, you only need a bottom piece. ZincBoy posted:Wear ear plugs. I used the greenlee carbide tipped hole saws to make holes in panels for 2" rigid conduit before, there was a plug in hand drill with no clutch, blood, and bad language involved. Probably would be less violent securely clamped in a drillpress.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2023 22:36
|
|
|
HolHorsejob posted:e: I need real advice. I want to make a flange-mount to foot-mount adapter for a motor. I've got a design worked up in solidworks, most of it's pretty straightforward, but the hard part is cutting a roughly 4.5" hole in hot-rolled steel to center on the motor's flange. How would you do this in a home shop? I don't have a torch or plasma cutter. Was considering this circle cutter in my drill press, though reviews are mixed. I wouldn't use a circle cutter. I used one to cut a couple 4" holes in a steel fire extinguisher enclosure. I don't know if it was case-hardening, work-hardening, or some other form of hardening, but it hardened that steel about halfway through the cut and would not continue to cut it. I don't know what that fire extinguisher enclosure was made of, so maybe your results would be different with hot-rolled.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2023 00:03
|
|
|
How does the phrase go? "The grinder makes me the welder I ain't"? The square tubing is 1" and the spring is 1 1/4" so needs an 1/8" plate added on each side. Rather than fab up the rounded end, then add the extra plate and trim, I tried to fab everything all at once which has been both a disaster and teachable moment  This is just first pass, probably going to go in and build up the low spot rather than grind down? Edit, this is what they looked like before  
Hadlock fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Sep 9, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 01:35
|
|
|
Grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 17:51
|
|
|
Grinder and Rum: oh poo poo! My thumb!
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 18:30
|
|
|
 Trip report: I ended up getting a heavy-duty circle cutter for my drill press, figuring I can at least use it for wood if it doesn't work for metal. The cutting edge didn't look ideal, so I gave it some love with lapping film. Before trying to cut a 4.5" hole in 0.25" steel, I figured I might as well kick the tires cutting a 2" disk out of 1/16" aluminum to make a flat backplate for my plunge dial indicator. I chucked it up, clamped down my stock on top of a board, and gave it a shot. Surprise surprise, it didn't turn out great. The chuck started to slip after the first ~0.030, then the whole thing started to wobble. I think the drill bit in the center cut too wide and stopped bracing against the unbalanced cutting. After ~0.050" or so, the belts started to slip every revolution or so, so I braced it and finished the cut by hand. I tried swapping out the drill bit with a piece of 1/4" precision-ground shaft, but this was maybe the third time in my life a drilled hole was undersized instead of oversized. So yeah. I don't have a rigid enough setup to hold it, nor a drill press beefy enough to handle it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2023 07:09
|
|
|
I'm setting up a 52" shear/brake/roller at work. It can handle mild steel up to about 16 gauge. I just ran the first bend on it, a workpiece in 20ga galvanized. The part is about 30" long, with a symmetrical ~7.5" bend on the left and right sides, and a void in the center 15".   The bend was very uneven. On a 90 degree bend, the spots closest to the center bent maybe 5-10 degrees more than the edges. As far as troubleshooting goes, I'm not sure where to look. The fingers appear to be well-aligned, and anyways the error is mirrored perfectly. There's a bolt on the back to tighten the shear blades. I tightened it down when I was having trouble shearing tough stock, and looks like torquing that bolt would cause the carriage with the blade & V-die to deflect forwards towards the center and backward towards the sides. Or could it just be as simple as uneven bending forces from the void in the center of the workpiece?
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2023 03:45
|
|
|
HolHorsejob posted:
I would start with your middle bolt. Loosen it up, bend another piece, and see if it goes away. If you have a straight edge long enough to lay on the edge you could check with that too.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2023 12:09
|
|
|
Yooper posted:I would start with your middle bolt. Loosen it up, bend another piece, and see if it goes away. If you have a straight edge long enough to lay on the edge you could check with that too. That did it! Thanks. Another question - I'm making some jewelry for a friend out of 1 mm brass (260) and 0.5 mm stainless sheet (430), planning on doing an inlay of the stainless in the brass. The brass I'm comfortable working with, but what's a good way to cut the stainless cleanly? If I do an abrasive cut with a dremel disc, will I be able to just polish away the little heat affected zone?
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2023 00:23
|
|
|
HolHorsejob posted:The bend was very uneven. idk man looks like the print to me 
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2023 04:50
|
|
|
HolHorsejob posted:That did it! Thanks. You can polish it away but if you get it too hot you can ruin the rust resistance. I'd suggest trying some aviation snips given how thin the material is.
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2023 05:56
|
|
|
What do you guys use for templating? Poster board is like $5 a sheet these days at retail I have cardboard but it's not great for stuff smaller than the size of your hand
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2023 23:48
|
|
|
Scared me for a sec there. https://www.amazon.com/Pacon-Super-...yY2hfYXRm&psc=1 0.65 each. Otherwise paper works ok. Dykem and height gauges / calipers can be great too.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2023 00:34
|
|
|
I like chipboard and blue tape or hot glue, does a good job of simulating thin sheet metal as far as bending and light forming and easy to work with.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2023 00:54
|
|
|
Go out behind a strip mall and dive their cardboard dumpster. All sizes and weights of paperboard for free. For poster board weight stuff, I like to use cereal boxes or similar.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2023 02:41
|
|
|
So I bought the third cheapest English wheel on Amazon. The upper flat wheel does not have the included rubber sock to allow shaping in only one direction (98% of my use case) I actually have roughly the correct size inner tube (slightly too small but I think in this case that works in my favor) can I just cut it up and use that
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2023 03:52
|
|
|
I need to make (or get made) a custom grinding wheel for a difficult to sharpen HSS tool. This is what the manual says about how it should be sharpened and how the wheel should be shaped:  I have never done anything like this besides maybe put a little radius on the face of my normal grinding wheels with a flat diamond dresser-is this something I can do safely myself, and if so, how and what tools would I need?
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2023 15:58
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I have never done anything like this besides maybe put a little radius on the face of my normal grinding wheels with a flat diamond dresser-is this something I can do safely myself, and if so, how and what tools would I need? Yes, you'll need a diamond dressing tool, something to hold it steady, and a way to guide it in half way straight.   The first is at McMaster and is a grit dresser, meaning it has diamonds all the way through and at the rate you use it will last until the heat death of the solar system. The second one is a Wen tool at Amazon and is diamond plated onto a rectangle. It is only superficial diamonds, but will probably be enough for what you need. Another option is a single point or grit diamond dresser that you would use to remove material. Depending how your wheel is guarded and what rests you have, you could totally go slow, plunge the tool in, and create the form you need. It will make a shitload of dust, like, wear a full rear end respirator, goggles, and do it outside. If your unit can handle some water, that will help immensely with the dust. If you are somewhere in the US of A then PM you your mailing address and I will send you a "worn out" industrial diamond grit dresser.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2023 20:29
|
|
|
build a sturdy vertical steel plate to stand behind so that when, not if, you lift your hand a little bit too high and the wheel catches on the point of the tool and slings it straight at your nuts at 75MPH there's a plan B e: nevermind I grossly misunderstood the tool geometry and thought they were telling you to handhold a plunge groove, it's fine. shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Sep 25, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2023 20:36
|
|
|
Clay and Steel, aka artistceleste was just interviewed by the podcast Forge Side Chat for about 3 hours! The sound levels are all over the place but the content is really good if you crank it. She goes into forging bronze and brass, and has a good nerd out about brass vs. bronze nomenclature and forging techniques it if anyone is interested. I am married to the woman but I still found it loving fascinating. https://spotify.link/DLEu7O5uoDb Or https://www.facebook.com/100073790806991/posts/336363222166702/?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v 
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 01:20
|
|
|
Oh right on, yeah she used to post here. I catch her youtube videos now and again. Is she still at the crucible in oakland? I took classes there back in like, 2009 or so, they're cool folks.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 01:28
|
|
|
She's still on their payroll, but only teaches more advanced stuff, having taught beginners for like 10 years. It's been bought, and is becoming corporatized and they're letting the equipment fall apart. Shes been kinda trying to fill in the gap that the Crucible and American Steel left, by hiring people they fired. So far it's working great, and she'll be demonstrating at Maker Faire coming up. The Crucible used to go there a LOT, they do not anymore.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 02:54
|
|
|
Oh man, that's really sad to hear about the crucible. So it's not a nonprofit any more?
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 20:01
|
|
|
If I'm welding with mild steel and 6013 rods is there any reason to use dc- vs DC+? E: for context, was welding some poo poo today using DC + and the welds looked uhhh not good, arbitrarily switched to DC - and they looked much better . I am of course aware that "looks better may not actually be better". wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Sep 26, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 22:11
|
|
|
DCEP is the standard, I think DCEN is generally less penetration and more deposition with stick so you'll burn through less and throw more metal for a better looking but potentially weaker weld? I've only done DCEP but have heard of DCEN for galvanized and really thin sheet work from what I can remember.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 01:33
|
|
|
Yooper posted:Yes, you'll need a diamond dressing tool, something to hold it steady, and a way to guide it in half way straight.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 02:07
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Thanks for this, that's basically what I imagine the process would be but thought I might explode a grinding wheel by dressing it on its side too much? You can get a pretty narrow wheel with a dresser, just be sure the diamond does the cutting and don't push it on it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 02:17
|
|
|
I had one of those 2nd ones, worked well until I lost it. Now I use the diamond wheel for my angle grinder
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 05:43
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:I had one of those 2nd ones, worked well until I lost it. Now I use the diamond wheel for my angle grinder This is actually an interesting idea. There are diamond form dressers for grinding wheels that are basically a CNC version of exactly that. I'm not sure I'd trust myself to freehand a grinding wheel profile with an angle grinder, but if you could do it, it would likely work very well and be very free cutting. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 12:58
|
|
|
I just take the wheel off the grinder and present the flat face to the wheel, it looks like this:
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 13:12
|
|
|
meowmeowmeowmeow posted:DCEP is the standard, I think DCEN is generally less penetration and more deposition with stick so you'll burn through less and throw more metal for a better looking but potentially weaker weld? I've only done DCEP but have heard of DCEN for galvanized and really thin sheet work from what I can remember.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 13:37
|
|
|
Yooper posted:This is actually an interesting idea. There are diamond form dressers for grinding wheels that are basically a CNC version of exactly that. I'm not sure I'd trust myself to freehand a grinding wheel profile with an angle grinder, but if you could do it, it would likely work very well and be very free cutting. Grinding a grinder with a grinder is metalworking af tho
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 17:56
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Oh man, that's really sad to hear about the crucible. So it's not a nonprofit any more? It's still around, still a sick facility with legit tools/tooling. It's just all broken, hollow feeling. The remaining faculty are either new hires or were volunteers last semester. There's some experts still (machine shop, jewelry, flame working are some), but it's mostly newbies teaching newbies anymore. It's all sorts of confusing, but the takeaway is: The Crucible was started during, and then survived the dot com boom, for one very rich reason. That reason left a few years back, and the school was bleeding money afterwards. An Expert came to make the bleeding not happen anymore. The Expert did it quite well, much to the chagrin of all the old timers. The old timers started losing privileges and freedoms for the sake of tightening purse strings, this did not go over well. Unfortunately, the old timers could only grumble/mumble quietly for so long, and when they spoke up louder, they were immediately fired. Nearly everyone who attended a specific meeting was fired on the spot. Perhaps everyone at this point, as of this morning actually. The Expert retired from the position last year but is still making decisions it seems. But all the fired folks, they all know Celeste and it's starting to get really serious around her. The amount of people she's assigned jobs to is growing, she has shop renters, she's got classes, a demo, fairs, patreon, volunteers, a legit apprentice who is a clone of Celeste, and until recently has turned down every Forged in Fire request. She has planted her seeds and they are loving popping off Holy poo poo. Uh, I may actually try to recruit some of you if you're at all interested in founding what seems to be a new metal arts community, and not making much money
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 18:48
|
|
|
I'm a computer toucher and very far from metalworking most times, but every horror story I've heard has either been from bench grinders or angle grinders. Launching stuff, wires going through eyes, stone or fiberglass shattering, sparking fires etc, all from grinders... just... dust from them even... Is grinding the worst?
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 18:57
|
|
|
The trade school where I spent part of my apprenticeship had three ancient manual surface grinders with no coolant system and questionable dust removal. The first time I got done working a project on one of those for about four hours I blew my nose and then picked the kleenex up with a magnet.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 19:02
|
|
|
down1nit posted:I'm a computer toucher and very far from metalworking most times, but every horror story I've heard has either been from bench grinders or angle grinders. Launching stuff, wires going through eyes, stone or fiberglass shattering, sparking fires etc, all from grinders... just... dust from them even... It can be. We've got ~30 of them ranging from 25hp centerless's all the way to a baby sized Harig surface grinder. The mid sized ones are the nicest to run. The bigger they are the more the mist is aerosolized and the more difficult it is to capture and not go loving everywhere. The little tiny ones are a pain because you think, like shame on an IGA said, that I don't need to guard this properly, I'm only grinding a pin. Then an hour later your spit tastes like coolant and your ears have a coating of grit. The slivers are the worst though, literal microscopic needles. down1nit posted:Uh, I may actually try to recruit some of you if you're at all interested in founding what seems to be a new metal arts community, and not making much money Tell us more! A community of not shitheads metalworkers would be cool.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 19:09
|
|
|
I welded up a thing and when it cooled off, it warped a bit. The two "legs" should be 22" apart, they are somewhere between 21 1/4 - 21 1/2" I currently have a jack between them, to spread them back apart should I be encouraging it with a torch? I figure somewhere about the red circles is where I should apply the heat, but currently have the jack spreading them to about 22.5" and hoping that will have the desired effect of open it up a bit wider and when I let off it will spring back to the right width, without having to break out the torch. This thing doesn't have to be that precise, but I want to try and do a good job at least. Material is 1X3" box steel 1/16" wall.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 19:24
|
|
|
Ambassadorofsodomy posted:I welded up a thing and when it cooled off, it warped a bit. The two "legs" should be 22" apart, they are somewhere between 21 1/4 - 21 1/2"  You want the steel to "grow" on one side, and "shrink" on the other. Doing that right at the weld joint won't get you much. I'd head one side, and then cool the opposite side. That should cause it to get longer on the inside and shorter on the outside, slightly arcing it. It's been awhile since I've done this, but it should work for that distance.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 19:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 05:54 |
|
|
We had a Weld.com has a great video on grinder usage by an OSHA type safety instructor and in a nutshell his advice was "gloves and face shield 100% of the time" with the comments filled with stuff like "I wish I'd seen this before I lost an eye" Hadlock fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Sep 27, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 19:35
|
|